UPDATE: You can now use iOS and your Apple ID (or Facebook) with PoloPrint Pro. That still doesn’t fit everyone’s situation but works for a lot more people.
I have this printer, and this printer isn't for beginners. The app isn't necessary to use this printer, I didn't even know where was an app. You can disable the power-on re-home in the settings menu by turning off POST. To get it to work with octoprint on the Raspberry Pi, you need to update CH430 driver on the pi with the patched CH430 driver by juliagoda on github. The heads smacking together is a bug in the old CURA engine that powers their WiiBuilder slicer. Use a new version of CURA.
Belts have limited adjustment. Holes are slotted for the y stepper motor. Pulleys are slotted on the X axis. Adjustment is not much and slots may need to be opened up a little. I have done this on my X axis, and I slackened my Y a little as it was too tight.
@@lukaslaing7973 I wasn't getting layer shifts. Belts were just slightly too loose. The adjustment is only a few millimeters. Are you getting later shifts in X or Y?
@@alanjones4747 unfortunately I'm not getting anything. Right out of the box the machine doesn't calibrate. The z axis will either climb to the top and keep pushing up and shaking until I get a homing failed error, or it will go down until the bed sensor lights up , then it will just push the nozzle into the bed and keep trying to go down again until it gets an error.
I saw on just flag channel I think it was it was there's AG code default setting you need to change so it doesn't auto bed level every time or was it Aurora I don't remember anyway
A glass bed is not possible. Testing the sensor with the metal plate supplied max gap for sensing is about 3.6mm in air. The Creality bed is 4mm and cannot detect the steel plate. The proximity sensor is not adjustable.
Thank you for the detailed review. The printer has a lot going for it. However the colliding print heads and no obvious belt adjustment is a red flag for me. The deal breaker though would be not being able to connect and control the printer using octoprint. Cheers 👍😎🇦🇺
It depends on the printer but usually it’s pretty easy. You’ll just head to the printer company website and download the firmware update to an as card or you might be able to do it through wifi if the printer has that feature.
I checked. Every placed I checked indicated a greater share of iOS than Android in the U.S. That's not the case worldwide but it is for America. gs.statcounter.com/os-market-share/mobile/united-states-of-america
@@joshuacahill2139 @Joshua Cahill Sure did. I bet that's from the release of the iPhone 12, since a new iPhone comes out each year in September/October.
Ok' I got as question for you : This seems to be your latest video and I want you to see my request ; I'm already using Cinema 4D for my projects I want to know if can still use it to feed my future 3D printer? If not what I I'll have to do to make it compatible? And which printer can be the best for my type of work?
The work flow is: modelling program outputs model in stl or obj format slicer program reads stl or obj and outputs gcode file printer reads gcode. Look at what your export options are for cinema 4d and see if stl or obj are there (obj is almost certainly there). Then download a slicer program and try ingesting one of your transformed models. If the slicer program can handle it and give you a reasonable looking preview, you are good to go.
one person in out X40 Community group is also working on a port of the latest marlin version to this printer, once this is done all problems, especially regarding the colliding heads should be gone. :) How ever there is also work going on, to have a guide on how to replace the board of that printer while keeping the display etc.
Not sure if it's the most compact. It might be but there are smaller printers that might be easier to use in a car. I'm curious, what's the use case here?
I used Cura. I find that adding a custom printer with the right sizes usually gets me off to a great start and then I can tweak from there. I suspect there are profiles out there for this but I didn't spend much time looking.
Double z axis help with stiffness, not with bed leveling. Unless the bed in a single z axis setup is so soft that it noticeably deflects when printing heavier objects.
@@The3DPrintingZone Better late than never, when I assembled mine the z tower was a way out of square to the base. I pushed it into the corner and never touched it again. Someday I might waste some time correcting it but all the extrusions will have to be checked for square. Probably will give it away . Not a big fan of IDEX any more. I have several two into one hot ends that really deliver. 2 cents worth
If you mean the helmet (PLA), yes, you can. If you do a search for mirror finish 3D Prints there are some great tutorials out there on the topic, but I haven’t done it myself.
@@The3DPrintingZone no... instead of going to glass, can you just coat or polish the metal plate? Or does it literally need to be a glass plate? I'm new to this but I want a good printer that i can make machine parts on. I want make a working plastic engine. I like the glass plate idea but as you said, it needs the metal plate to calibrate the printer. Thanks
@@redfishbluefish965 Ah, I see what you mean. I'm just not sure on that. I think with some effort you could remove the bed sticker and polish the steel, most likely, but I certainly haven't tried.
@@The3DPrintingZone thanks. I just watched the other vid on the prisa i3 MK3S+ and you also said you had good improvements on the creality so im gonna consider those instead...thanks for making these vids!
Obviously the printer and the APP has no relation to the social networking IDs, especially considering the fact APP works in local WiFi network only, it's not Cloud-based integration between your phone and the printer. The only reason they need your social networking ID -- to collect your information and trade it to 3rd parties or DarkNet. We had the same issues with the chinese camera-scope that connects to your phone via WiFi and needs your social networking IDs as well. They said in the manual "because the integration is done via our Cloud". In reality the integration was the same as in your case -- local WiFi only. The FB account details were sold to 3rd party company without any permissions from our side.
Making users sing up for a tracking app is a deal breaker for myself and others. Too bad, but it looks like the machine still has too many flaws to be considered. Seems like a Beta unit; another company using customers as Beta testers? Still looking for a IDEX...
I actually bought the X40V2 a year ago as my first printer. It was a used salvage freight unit that seemed as if someone had did quite a bit of printing on as it had 1000 hours on it and tons of files . I believe the guy i got it from probally adjusted everything and did a really bad job of it , everything was either extremally loose or tight there was no in-between. it took some trial and error but i had it printing ok within the first several hours . I've printed tons of prints most pretty flawlessly including lattice benchys up to 290mm tall duel 100mm calibration cubes tons of flexi dragons snakes and such without rafts or brims . it now has well over 3000 hours , ive replaced the tubes with capacorn tubes and went to solid bed mounts I have also surfaced the magnetic sheet . i only tried to get the wifi to work once but failed this very well could be my fault . i had considered buying a new one as they are about 600.00 now , but im trying to get away from bed slingers . all in all its been more than worth the 200.00 I paid for it it would have been worth the 699.00 as well as it has worked . Oh on your helmet unless you were using a .6 nozzle .3 is way to high on the layers I find 0.15 - 0.2 to be a pretty good height . one other thing ive noticed is its pretty sensitive to temperatures such as running a bit to low temp will greatly increase layer lines . Thanks for the video I really enjoyed watching it .
@@SilynRaces The steam seemed to have dropped out of the hobbyist IDEX battle I was sure there would be a definative machine by now (shows what I know) I guess getting an industrial machine is the real answer for a "Working" IDEX
The only reason I can see for using a microSD card (instead of a full size SD card) is because it might make the control board a few cents cheaper, at the expense of making your use of it more cumbersome. If a company is cheaping out to that extent, I won't be buying their product because they are probably cheaping out in other less apparent ways as well.
The use of MicroSD over SD is actually pretty standard on most 3D Printers, even many of the nicer ones, but I agree. I would much rather have a full size SD. 3D Printers obviously don't need to fit in anyone's pocket so why make us fumble with tiny little cards and adapters?
It is probably because a full size sd would make the pcb bigger (and more expensive). Also, microsds are becoming the standard in all devices, and are being sold more often. There are also micro sd to full size sd adapters that you can buy. Full size sd on the printer would be nicer than having to deal with small, fragile memory flakes, though.
having to link to social media just to access the printer is a deal breaker. No octo-print is a deal breaker. Plus, the name is too goofy; what were they thinking? This isn't even core xy. A true loser.
whats up with 3D printer manufacturers making SD card slots too wide, so the fucking card falls inside the printer ffs... my Bigtreetech Biqu B1 has this problem too... fucking annoying shit
Looks like they just released an iOS version that can use Apple ID instead of Facebook. That still won’t make everyone happy but a step in the right direction.
UPDATE: You can now use iOS and your Apple ID (or Facebook) with PoloPrint Pro. That still doesn’t fit everyone’s situation but works for a lot more people.
I have this printer, and this printer isn't for beginners. The app isn't necessary to use this printer, I didn't even know where was an app. You can disable the power-on re-home in the settings menu by turning off POST. To get it to work with octoprint on the Raspberry Pi, you need to update CH430 driver on the pi with the patched CH430 driver by juliagoda on github. The heads smacking together is a bug in the old CURA engine that powers their WiiBuilder slicer. Use a new version of CURA.
Belts have limited adjustment. Holes are slotted for the y stepper motor. Pulleys are slotted on the X axis. Adjustment is not much and slots may need to be opened up a little. I have done this on my X axis, and I slackened my Y a little as it was too tight.
Did making these adjustments show a noticeable difference with your prints? Would it fix the layer shift if that was an issue you were having?
@@lukaslaing7973 I wasn't getting layer shifts. Belts were just slightly too loose. The adjustment is only a few millimeters. Are you getting later shifts in X or Y?
@@alanjones4747 unfortunately I'm not getting anything. Right out of the box the machine doesn't calibrate. The z axis will either climb to the top and keep pushing up and shaking until I get a homing failed error, or it will go down until the bed sensor lights up , then it will just push the nozzle into the bed and keep trying to go down again until it gets an error.
You have to forward the port to access the Wi-Fi from other locations other than the home network it took me a while but I finally got it working
I saw on just flag channel I think it was it was there's AG code default setting you need to change so it doesn't auto bed level every time or was it Aurora I don't remember anyway
A glass bed is not possible. Testing the sensor with the metal plate supplied max gap for sensing is about 3.6mm in air. The Creality bed is 4mm and cannot detect the steel plate. The proximity sensor is not adjustable.
Glass bed is possbile with a change to a $10 capacitve sensor.
Thank you for the detailed review. The printer has a lot going for it. However the colliding print heads and no obvious belt adjustment is a red flag for me. The deal breaker though would be not being able to connect and control the printer using octoprint. Cheers 👍😎🇦🇺
How hard is it to do a firmware update on these printers? I just purchased a used one, and I'm pretty sure it needs to have one done to it.
It depends on the printer but usually it’s pretty easy. You’ll just head to the printer company website and download the firmware update to an as card or you might be able to do it through wifi if the printer has that feature.
@@The3DPrintingZone I believe it has WiFi, I will check the version it has on it now as to compared to what the website has.
Sounds good!
How do you rank your IDEX printers?
I hope someone will make a comparison to IDEX Tenlog and Sovol.
(7:51) How do you figure there are more apple iOS than android devices?
Serious question.
I checked. Every placed I checked indicated a greater share of iOS than Android in the U.S. That's not the case worldwide but it is for America. gs.statcounter.com/os-market-share/mobile/united-states-of-america
@@joshuacahill2139 @Joshua Cahill Sure did. I bet that's from the release of the iPhone 12, since a new iPhone comes out each year in September/October.
Ok' I got as question for you : This seems to be your latest video and I want you to see my request ; I'm already using Cinema 4D for my projects I want to know if can still use it to feed my future 3D printer?
If not what I I'll have to do to make it compatible? And which printer can be the best for my type of work?
The work flow is:
modelling program outputs model in stl or obj format
slicer program reads stl or obj and outputs gcode file
printer reads gcode.
Look at what your export options are for cinema 4d and see if stl or obj are there (obj is almost certainly there).
Then download a slicer program and try ingesting one of your transformed models.
If the slicer program can handle it and give you a reasonable looking preview, you are good to go.
The current firmware does allow you to turn off the turn on POST check its under settings about 2 pages in
sorry turn off POST check
Good to know! I’ll definitely have a look.
one person in out X40 Community group is also working on a port of the latest marlin version to this printer, once this is done all problems, especially regarding the colliding heads should be gone. :) How ever there is also work going on, to have a guide on how to replace the board of that printer while keeping the display etc.
is this the most compact 300x300x400 size printer? Is is folable to use us as a portable printer in the car?
Not sure if it's the most compact. It might be but there are smaller printers that might be easier to use in a car. I'm curious, what's the use case here?
Great review 👏👌👍
what slicing software did you use? I cant seem to find the x40 on either of cura's or wiibuilder's printer lists
I used Cura. I find that adding a custom printer with the right sizes usually gets me off to a great start and then I can tweak from there. I suspect there are profiles out there for this but I didn't spend much time looking.
@@The3DPrintingZone thank you, I guess will tinker with cura for a bit.
@@jcerown127 the new version of cura has an x40 profile now.
Thanks. Do you have any updated thoughts on this printer?
Hey Bill, not really. I haven't bothered spending much more time on it since I was pulled in other directions and it hasn't shown a lot of promise.
Hilarious choices and options, name too xD
Double z axis help with stiffness, not with bed leveling. Unless the bed in a single z axis setup is so soft that it noticeably deflects when printing heavier objects.
I really don't know what people expects with power failure recovery + carborundum bed
Did you manage to resolve the layer issues seen on the helmet?
Not yet, no. But that’s largely because I haven’t had the time to. I’ll play with settings, belt tension and speeds to see what I can do.
@@The3DPrintingZone Better late than never, when I assembled mine
the z tower was a way out of square to the base. I pushed it into the corner
and never touched it again. Someday I might waste some time correcting it
but all the extrusions will have to be checked for square. Probably will give it away . Not a big fan of IDEX any more. I have several two into one hot ends that really deliver. 2 cents worth
Octoprint can be used, check, x40-community.org/index.php/11-tuning/22-workaround-and-tipps-for-weedo-x40-printer , to resolve a driver issue.
Can you mirror polish the steel plate?
If you mean the helmet (PLA), yes, you can. If you do a search for mirror finish 3D Prints there are some great tutorials out there on the topic, but I haven’t done it myself.
@@The3DPrintingZone no... instead of going to glass, can you just coat or polish the metal plate? Or does it literally need to be a glass plate?
I'm new to this but I want a good printer that i can make machine parts on. I want make a working plastic engine. I like the glass plate idea but as you said, it needs the metal plate to calibrate the printer. Thanks
@@redfishbluefish965 Ah, I see what you mean. I'm just not sure on that. I think with some effort you could remove the bed sticker and polish the steel, most likely, but I certainly haven't tried.
@@The3DPrintingZone thanks. I just watched the other vid on the prisa i3 MK3S+ and you also said you had good improvements on the creality so im gonna consider those instead...thanks for making these vids!
Obviously the printer and the APP has no relation to the social networking IDs, especially considering the fact APP works in local WiFi network only, it's not Cloud-based integration between your phone and the printer. The only reason they need your social networking ID -- to collect your information and trade it to 3rd parties or DarkNet. We had the same issues with the chinese camera-scope that connects to your phone via WiFi and needs your social networking IDs as well. They said in the manual "because the integration is done via our Cloud". In reality the integration was the same as in your case -- local WiFi only. The FB account details were sold to 3rd party company without any permissions from our side.
Making users sing up for a tracking app is a deal breaker for myself and others. Too bad, but it looks like the machine still has too many flaws to be considered. Seems like a Beta unit; another company using customers as Beta testers? Still looking for a IDEX...
Have you found a descent IDEX printer?
I actually bought the X40V2 a year ago as my first printer.
It was a used salvage freight unit that seemed as if someone had did quite a bit of printing on as it had 1000 hours on it and tons of files .
I believe the guy i got it from probally adjusted everything and did a really bad job of it , everything was either extremally loose or tight there was no in-between.
it took some trial and error but i had it printing ok within the first several hours .
I've printed tons of prints most pretty flawlessly including lattice benchys up to 290mm tall duel 100mm calibration cubes tons of flexi dragons snakes and such without rafts or brims .
it now has well over 3000 hours , ive replaced the tubes with capacorn tubes and went to solid bed mounts I have also surfaced the magnetic sheet .
i only tried to get the wifi to work once but failed this very well could be my fault .
i had considered buying a new one as they are about 600.00 now , but im trying to get away from bed slingers .
all in all its been more than worth the 200.00 I paid for it it would have been worth the 699.00 as well as it has worked .
Oh on your helmet unless you were using a .6 nozzle .3 is way to high on the layers I find 0.15 - 0.2 to be a pretty good height .
one other thing ive noticed is its pretty sensitive to temperatures such as running a bit to low temp will greatly increase layer lines .
Thanks for the video I really enjoyed watching it .
Give it another six months and I think we will see a clear winner in the battle of the IDEX, I don't the X40 will take this prize!
Which one then
@@nf794 Another 4 months to go yet, I expect more IDEX models to be released in this time
@@AndrewAHayes six months passed, so which one?
Well? We're waiting...
@@SilynRaces The steam seemed to have dropped out of the hobbyist IDEX battle I was sure there would be a definative machine by now (shows what I know) I guess getting an industrial machine is the real answer for a "Working" IDEX
Review the Creality HALOT ONE
Too bad it doesn't do a purge tower instead of purging over the print itself.
Company provides ZERO support. In face book groups many people are unhappy with it. I would not recommend
The only reason I can see for using a microSD card (instead of a full size SD card) is because it might make the control board a few cents cheaper, at the expense of making your use of it more cumbersome. If a company is cheaping out to that extent, I won't be buying their product because they are probably cheaping out in other less apparent ways as well.
The use of MicroSD over SD is actually pretty standard on most 3D Printers, even many of the nicer ones, but I agree. I would much rather have a full size SD. 3D Printers obviously don't need to fit in anyone's pocket so why make us fumble with tiny little cards and adapters?
It is probably because a full size sd would make the pcb bigger (and more expensive). Also, microsds are becoming the standard in all devices, and are being sold more often. There are also micro sd to full size sd adapters that you can buy. Full size sd on the printer would be nicer than having to deal with small, fragile memory flakes, though.
The first 28 seconds gives me the impression this is a rap song.
Great videos. Sub’d.
Connection to social media for the App to work, kills it for me :-(
having to link to social media just to access the printer is a deal breaker. No octo-print is a deal breaker. Plus, the name is too goofy; what were they thinking? This isn't even core xy. A true loser.
$699 doesn't look like such a good deal
whats up with 3D printer manufacturers making SD card slots too wide, so the fucking card falls inside the printer ffs... my Bigtreetech Biqu B1 has this problem too... fucking annoying shit
Agreed! That's a major oversight by the manufacturers.
get a $6 micro SD card extension cable
Yeah, that's a worthwhile purchase for this machine - just a shame that you would need to. This is the only printer I have that has this issue.
Facebook & WeChat required is a nogo for me.
I see absolutely no reason why unless they need to spy for marketing.
Looks like they just released an iOS version that can use Apple ID instead of Facebook. That still won’t make everyone happy but a step in the right direction.
Who cares what it does. It could be the best printer in the known universe and I still would never give this company any money.
Why not?
Thanks for telling me about Facebook, not the printer for me.
You may have already seen this but if you're using iOS you can just use your Apple ID. If you're on Android, that's no help, unfortunately.
Nope, dont need this piece of crap.
No Apple support, not for me !!
I just found out today that they now have an iOS version. I tried it and it worked great and you can use your Apple ID to sign in.