I just came across this video after searching around town for sculptamold. I hesitantly picked up plaster of Paris as an alternative. Glad I did because now I can make this! Thank you!
Hi Jimmy, I love the diplomatic beginning. I think you missed your calling. Thanks for another cost cutting tutorial. Just a thought, you mentioned that you would be placing rock features on the one corner mountain; wouldn’t it be better to place ( glue ) them before putting on the Scuptamold like substance on the foam? That way you can blend the rock faces into the wet substance. Anyways, thanks for another great tutorial. See ya next time.
Hey jimmy great DIY.I never shot mine because your doing this one and it’s the same except I used 5 min set joint compound and a drill to shred the toilet paper. Liked the texture you got on it also this video will be awesome for everyone who wants to use an alternative to sculptamold.
A nice succinct DIY video Jimmy. I've made my own similar product only I used the cellulose blow-in insulation product (which is nothing but pulverized paper, so I save the shredding step) and lightweight joint compound for the binder. End result is pretty much the same, and I can cover about 40 sq. ft. for $21.00.
Love the video.What material and process did you use to make the mountain itself? I want to know what I'm pouring this homemade sculptamold on to. Thanks.
Back in the day I used old newspapers that were delivered free every week. You do need good paint to hide the print showing through though. In any case that dollar store kitchen towel will do the job just fine. Looking forward to the next installment Jimmy.
Great video you can save yourself the shedding step by just soaking the toilet paper in water and then it falls apart then add your plaster or just add white glue cheaper still
I have used the "Hard Shelf" technique with good results. It uses strips of paper towel dip in a watery plaster mixture. The method is inexpensive and perhaps a bit less messy.
I like Durabond 90 (joint compound). Note that it will dry as hard as concrete, so it isn’t good for some areas. That said though, it is heavy so your scenery will be heavier than the trains, which is how you want it to be. Mix in gray paint for roads and while it id in place and setting up, smooth it out with water. Same thing for creek beds using tan/brown paint. Not smoothing it out with water will let it dry in a rough/course texture which looks good for raw soil (farm fields, earthen berms, etc). It is SUPER durable, like concrete, even over a cardboard lattice. So it’s perfect for a modular/exhibition layout. You definitely want to wear gloves when mixing it. Not only will it pull moisture out of your skin, but having dried concrete under your fingernails was a Homer Simpson moment for me. And here’s a tip from experience…stick nails in where ever you want to add a tree later. On e the stuff is dry just pop the nail out, and use it as the pin for the tree. Then all the trees are removable. I do the same thing with piano wire for people/vehicles… that way my people can “move” once in a while, and vehicles on a hill are held in place but still interchangeable/movable. Nescafe’ as always, I do the instant cheap, vanilla cream & four sugars.
Please understand the differences: This a good medium and it obviously works, however, Sculptamold is not plaster. Plaster sets rigid and brittle compared to sculptamold. That is no real problem, UNLESS you are building modules that you do plan on taking to shows, meets etc. Transporting layout modules that were done with plaster often (not always) results in cracked and sometimes broken scenery when moved and set up, because plaster dries rigid and brittle and weighs considerably more than sculptamold which, remains more flexible after curing, allowing the module folks to transport and handle them more safely and easily. If you building a stationary layout, then yes, this is less expensive and will work great. If you are going to build a modular layout or are part of a modular club, think hard about the cost/time investment between fixing or re-making scenery when it does crack or separate or worst case break altogether, when it gets moved around to a show or expo and the one time, slightly higher cost of sculptamold and the time you have or will invest in your scenery. Transportable modules for clubs, expos and shows was originally the whole point of using the Sculptamold product in the hobby. Layout staying at home? This is great. Layout going on the road? Not as good as Sculptamold. Just a consideration.
I had considered doing something similar but wasn't quite sure how it would turn out compared to proper sculptamold and I have to say the end result looks just as good for a fraction of the cost ! Saved me getting messy and testing it myself :)
Perhaps an easier way to shred the toilet paper would be to use a paper shredder and for stirring, use a long paddle drill bit. A friend of mine gives to me, the ends of register receipt paper which I shred. Tiny pieces. I wonder if that would work.
Cellulose insulation, the kind that's blown into attics, works just as well and costs a lot less than TP. Just be sure you look for cellulose insulation and NOT the fiberglass kind when you go to your local big box home improvement store!
Comparing volume and weight to cost. 5lbs of Plaster of Paris + 5lbs of Toilet paper would net me ~10lbs of this DIY sculptamold, is that similar in volume to 10lbs of sculptamold?
Haven’t tried it, but just on principle I think toilet paper made for RV and marine toilets would be even better as it is made to “dissolve” rapidly without clumps. It’s a bit more expensive, but not too bad. Try Walmart.
Bet you that TP would be about 200 billion times easier to break down by hand if you did it like professional processors do- just put it in water and agitate it. Even easier with if you had a drill with a mixer attachment on it- but that would be a power tool.
The one detail that we'd really like to know is, what sort of 50:50 mix? By weight? By volume? But the TP volume depends on how shredded it is. You were too vague on that detail. 5 minutes of vid for 10 seconds of information. Urgh.
*Me in 2020* "Holy cow, this guy is rich! "Use cheap toilet paper.''' The ain't none left!" XD
I just came across this video after searching around town for sculptamold. I hesitantly picked up plaster of Paris as an alternative. Glad I did because now I can make this! Thank you!
Every time I watch one of your videos I learn.
perfect you really helped me with this video.... because i cannot find Sculptamold here in Russia !
as modelers we arebnalways looking for inexpensive ways to do our models..,.this was a great "how to"...thx for sharing.. vinny
Thanks Vinny!
Hi Jimmy, I love the diplomatic beginning. I think you missed your calling. Thanks for another cost cutting tutorial. Just a thought, you mentioned that you would be placing rock features on the one corner mountain; wouldn’t it be better to place ( glue ) them before putting on the Scuptamold like substance on the foam? That way you can blend the rock faces into the wet substance. Anyways, thanks for another great tutorial. See ya next time.
Hey jimmy great DIY.I never shot mine because your doing this one and it’s the same except I used 5 min set joint compound and a drill to shred the toilet paper. Liked the texture you got on it also this video will be awesome for everyone who wants to use an alternative to sculptamold.
great short direct video! just what I was looking for. thanks for sharing! cheers from Argentina!
Great alternative! How about tinting the mix with some paint to give a "base coat color" to it?
It's a waste of paint better to apply acrylic dark brown when the surface is absolutely dry
🇮🇪🇪🇺
A nice succinct DIY video Jimmy. I've made my own similar product only I used the cellulose blow-in insulation product (which is nothing but pulverized paper, so I save the shredding step) and lightweight joint compound for the binder. End result is pretty much the same, and I can cover about 40 sq. ft. for $21.00.
Love the video.What material and process did you use to make the mountain itself? I want to know what I'm pouring this homemade sculptamold on to. Thanks.
Great and easy alternative. Thanks.
Thanks to your tutorial I have used this on my layout and it looks awesome!
Thanks for this! I'll be trying it soon
Great Idea n Very Well Explained!!! Thank You Sooo Much:).
Back in the day I used old newspapers that were delivered free every week. You do need good paint to hide the print showing through though. In any case that dollar store kitchen towel will do the job just fine. Looking forward to the next installment Jimmy.
Very interesting technique. I’ll have to try this.
Great video you can save yourself the shedding step by just soaking the toilet paper in water and then it falls apart then add your plaster or just add white glue cheaper still
Very cool, Jimmy. Thanks for sharing. - Drew
Thanks for the tutorial
Nice tutorial. I’ll have to give it a try
Very good video Jimmy enjoyed it :)
Jimmy..do you know if this stuff shrinks and cracks as it dries.. due to such thickness? It is a great DIY.
I have used the "Hard Shelf" technique with good results. It uses strips of paper towel dip in a watery plaster mixture. The method is inexpensive and perhaps a bit less messy.
Thanks for this. A good trick is to wet your hands and then use them to smooth it out when it's close to drying, if you're after a smooth finish.
I like Durabond 90 (joint compound). Note that it will dry as hard as concrete, so it isn’t good for some areas. That said though, it is heavy so your scenery will be heavier than the trains, which is how you want it to be. Mix in gray paint for roads and while it id in place and setting up, smooth it out with water. Same thing for creek beds using tan/brown paint. Not smoothing it out with water will let it dry in a rough/course texture which looks good for raw soil (farm fields, earthen berms, etc). It is SUPER durable, like concrete, even over a cardboard lattice. So it’s perfect for a modular/exhibition layout. You definitely want to wear gloves when mixing it. Not only will it pull moisture out of your skin, but having dried concrete under your fingernails was a Homer Simpson moment for me. And here’s a tip from experience…stick nails in where ever you want to add a tree later. On e the stuff is dry just pop the nail out, and use it as the pin for the tree. Then all the trees are removable. I do the same thing with piano wire for people/vehicles… that way my people can “move” once in a while, and vehicles on a hill are held in place but still interchangeable/movable. Nescafe’ as always, I do the instant cheap, vanilla cream & four sugars.
Sweet how to video!!!!!
love it. Might add a bit of Chalk in different colors just so it isn't all white.
Please understand the differences: This a good medium and it obviously works, however, Sculptamold is not plaster. Plaster sets rigid and brittle compared to sculptamold. That is no real problem, UNLESS you are building modules that you do plan on taking to shows, meets etc. Transporting layout modules that were done with plaster often (not always) results in cracked and sometimes broken scenery when moved and set up, because plaster dries rigid and brittle and weighs considerably more than sculptamold which, remains more flexible after curing, allowing the module folks to transport and handle them more safely and easily. If you building a stationary layout, then yes, this is less expensive and will work great. If you are going to build a modular layout or are part of a modular club, think hard about the cost/time investment between fixing or re-making scenery when it does crack or separate or worst case break altogether, when it gets moved around to a show or expo and the one time, slightly higher cost of sculptamold and the time you have or will invest in your scenery. Transportable modules for clubs, expos and shows was originally the whole point of using the Sculptamold product in the hobby. Layout staying at home? This is great. Layout going on the road? Not as good as Sculptamold. Just a consideration.
So for the amateur home DIY diorama builder who does it for fun and will most likely the piece in one place, this should be fine?
Side by side comparison would be good for version 2 of this, and why is this better, besides being cheaper.
can i use bandage version of plaster of paris instead of powder?
Sweet vid!
Sorry if you mentioned this already but how long does it take to dry in a thick coat like that?
I would usually let it dry overnight
I had considered doing something similar but wasn't quite sure how it would turn out compared to proper sculptamold and I have to say the end result looks just as good for a fraction of the cost ! Saved me getting messy and testing it myself :)
Perhaps an easier way to shred the toilet paper would be to use a paper shredder and for stirring, use a long paddle drill bit. A friend of mine gives to me, the ends of register receipt paper which I shred. Tiny pieces. I wonder if that would work.
Cellulose insulation, the kind that's blown into attics, works just as well and costs a lot less than TP. Just be sure you look for cellulose insulation and NOT the fiberglass kind when you go to your local big box home improvement store!
Comparing volume and weight to cost.
5lbs of Plaster of Paris + 5lbs of Toilet paper would net me ~10lbs of this DIY sculptamold, is that similar in volume to 10lbs of sculptamold?
Haven’t tried it, but just on principle I think toilet paper made for RV and marine toilets would be even better as it is made to “dissolve” rapidly without clumps. It’s a bit more expensive, but not too bad. Try Walmart.
How long did it take to dry?
It's working time is similar to sculptamold at about 15 minutes, then I let it cure for a day.
can i color it somehow?
Use a paper shredder👍
So Sculptamold is just wet toilet paper? what keeps it all together?
Sculptamold is a completely different compound. This is simply plaster and shredded toilet paper that has similar modeling qualities.
How did you do the 'rough' texture on the mountain?
That's the great thing about this stuff. If you don't smooth it out, that's just how it ends up!
The reason sculptamold is expensive is for the producer to make more money, not because of any research… 🤦♂️
An easier way to shred the tp is to run it thru a cross cut paper shredder
Bet you that TP would be about 200 billion times easier to break down by hand if you did it like professional processors do- just put it in water and agitate it. Even easier with if you had a drill with a mixer attachment on it- but that would be a power tool.
Hola. Que tal. Que es el polvo que pusiste en el balde??
Yeso, plaster en inglés
The one detail that we'd really like to know is, what sort of 50:50 mix? By weight? By volume? But the TP volume depends on how shredded it is. You were too vague on that detail. 5 minutes of vid for 10 seconds of information. Urgh.
Sorry. I meant "Shell" not "Shelf". ;-)
I use a drill with a wire brush to whiz through the toilet paper. Much faster.
LOL
Looks messy
It is very messy haha!
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