DragBoss Garage: Ford 351 Cleveland Oiling: A Professional View With Tristan Triccas
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- Опубліковано 20 жов 2024
- This is the first interview I have ever done. Please forgive the quality and view at times. I have never done this before, so the camera view is not the best. Have plenty to work on. In this interview I talk to Trickie, from the famed Australian Team of Trick & Manswetto. This team not only built some of the meanest Ford Engines in Australia , but also raced what they built. I have a couple of pictures of Trickie's Ford Capri. I will make some more detail videos, on the combo, and some runs. It is a interview that has some humor, and insight into the Cleveland oiling system, but also that you don't need to overthink it. Keep it simple, and basic. Trickie, has only run the bronze lifters bore bushings, with a .003 groove cut down to oil ring, and standard volume oil pump. That is it. Also his thoughts on the auxiliary oil line. I am thinking of trying this with one of my up coming builds. We also talk about our next video that will be on cylinder head basics, for 351s, Cleveland, and Windsor. once I get better way to manage media, I think I can improve significantly the interview presentation. Like I say, Stay Tuned..... Thanks Trickie!
This is such a refreshing change from other channels that only want to talk about the crappy LS
Thanks Jonny, I don't know anything about an LS, other than it has the same bolt pattern, as Cleveland. Glad your here, Stay tuned, more to come.
Gm cleveland clone =ls
I’m sick of the SBC videos too
@@johnnyhonda7576 something I see with Ford engines is that the sense of family whether it’s a Falcon 289 to 460 swapped Fox body’s, the real Stock / Super Stock 68-70 Cobra Jets. Going to the strip to walk the pits and and every Ford car you have to see”what’s it got in it.” , and I like the Cleveland and FE most. I don’t care much for the LS in the Fox body swaps. The Coyote and Voodoo swaps with turbos warm this old hot rodders heart and to see a well done 351C 70 Cougar, or like Thor Prestergards, 427 Cars. I’ll always enjoy the Sportsman cars. I bleed Ford Blue!
I'm glad to see the Ford faithful are still alive & well down under!❤👍😎🏁
They sure are, they have been in the game for a long time. Thanks Robert, I appreciate it. Stay Tuned.
Lot off fast Fords in Australia and New Zealand Getting big HP lots off Cleveland engines in the day but there are a lot off Barra’s these days, see a lot on the street at car meets putting out 1200 HP at the treads Lots off Falcons Family cars and driven Covid has slowed up the car shows Southeast Queensland Sunshine Coast.
@@svenomick5857 no doubt about that, Cleveland’s never stopped rocking Down under for sure. That is a lot of rear wheel hp, can get hurt real easy. Covid has slowed down everything and changed people’s lives forever. Thanks for watching and don’t forget to like 👍
I like how Tricky said with lifter bore bushings you open the oil gallery back up to allow the full flow of oil and just use the 3 thou groove to restrict the oil to the rockers. Thanks for another great video Tim
Exactly! Gary, so many ways to skin a cat, the easiest is the one most guys want. Need lifter bushings, initial expense, but then your golden.
Tristan is a great guy. He showed me around his shop years ago and also got us a spot taking video of them racing the Capri at eastern creek dragway.
Cool beans Robert. Yes he is an outstanding mate. We get along rather famously. Appreciate you taking the time to comment. Please subscribe, like, and share.
Man, this is giving me some flashbacks. The best bearing wear overall I ever got with these engines, was when I had an old Hamburger's oil pan I used. I tried every pan out there, and Like Y'all are saying, I wound up using a squared off Hamburger's pan and a homemade oil scrapper for the crank that took forever to get right. The idea of getting the oil away from the windage and back to the bottom of the pan as fast as possible made the world of difference. I am a dirt dobber, so I've built these for circles mostly. That necessitated a wide vs. deep pan naturally, and the pans we ran had the trap doors in as well. I've never tried his lifter trick, but that sounds fantastic to me! Always great to see new things, and you're getting some excellent material out there, thanks for what you're doing here.
Your most welcome Elmer, lots of tricks I have found out too. At this point, no changes with my 409 build, may tear it down after dyno and inspect, maybe then get new custom stephs pan, and make the changes he talked about...Thankful that your here ad sharing your experience.
Thanks again Tim this one really pertained to me. I'm not going over 6500 and have an 8 gt pan. I suddenly feel a little better with just radiuses and 20/50. Keep em coming my friend 👍👍
You will be fine. Especially with fine tuning the big passages. 8 qts should be good with your rpm range. I like 20/50 too. Keep me posted. Stay tuned Swap
Great video - great to see the smiling faces being included. Have a safe and nice day all. CHEERS from AUSTRALIA.
Thanks so much. Smiles and Clevelands go together. Cheers and share with your mates
Tristan is a wealth of knowledge, great video.
No doubt about that. Appreciate you stopping by the DragBoss garage. Way more in store.
I remember reading about Glidden's work on the Cleveland program as a kid in the early 2000's, and was truly impressed. Such a great guy with amazing ideas that were way ahead of their time. This is a cool series on the Cleveland, please keep it up!
Appreciate the kind words. Yes he was quite a racer, a great guy, and great father. Your welcome. Glad you stopped by the DragBoss garage. Just wait until tonight episode. Please like and share with your buddies.
So much great usable info here.
Beautiful family Tim, you're a lucky man!
Thanks Bob, i am the luckiest guy in the world. It makes a difference when your family is helping you and learning. Keeping the Cleveland alive
Thanks guys, love hearing your wisdom. I'm about to spend lot of money on my 70 Mach1. Keeping it a Cleveland and push through the problems is going to be fun. Looking forward to going 393 with CHi heads etc. I will be watching.
Heath, that combo will rock easy 600hp. Glad your here, stay tuned to DragBoss Garage👍
Another great video Tim !
Thanks Michael, I appreciate the support and you guys getting something out the videos that may help you. 👍
Trick and Manswetto Capri what a Weapon that car a beautiful bit off work living in Australia those Boys were at the top off the game.
That Capri is awesome. Looking under the hood, blows you away. Experts in their field.
Great to hear more about the oil system gives me more things to check when I pull out my 351clevo for a freshen up thanks guys
Yes sir, info from a professional. I am going to also try it on one of my upcoming builds. Christian when you go through it, take the time to massage all the big passages. Thanks for commenting and enjoying this channel
@@DragBoss351Cleveland thanks again for that I will check all the oil passages and denture all the sharp edges
@@christiantroy7722 little time and big payout for sure. Follow the path of the oil and see what obstacles are in the way. 👍
So Tristan and I have something in common that we both did. I filed a small groove on the edge of my roller lifters to supply oil to rockers 100% of the time and prevent rocker failure. This "Trick" allows more oil flow to the roller rockers. Thanks for sharing this to us Drag Boss, I found the answer to this problem but nice to know that the Aussies also figured it out too!
I had Crane roller rockers, lifters, roller camshaft, guide plates, push rods, triple valve springs, titanium retainers. That little notch I filed in the lifter did prevent further rocker arm damage.
I think the wrinkle wall Firestone Firehawk racing slicks, 10.5 x 31 x 15 did the most damage to the engine, along with the 456:1 gears and Zoom spool. That's when acceleration really forced the oil back to the rear main oil seal. Too bad Ford didn't put a rear sump oil pickup in the 1970 Mustang.
Sounds like you got it covered Greg. We learn along the way. I have never seen this or heard this before, but more than one way to skin a cat. Your combo sounded pretty stout. Been there on the spool and I ran 4.86. Great you stopped by, thanks for the input on the channel. Stay tuned more to come.
@@DragBoss351Cleveland Let me know how the new rear sump setup works out on your race car.
@@gregkorte7534 sure will. It will be some time, but I will make a video. Thanks Greg
A great and interesting discussion guys. Winston, the UK Cleveland man.
Hell yeah, Winston Cleveland. Did you know Churchill? Lol. Thanks I’m glad your here my friend, stay tuned, more on the way today🏁
Great video! Some awesome info. Thanks guys.
Thank you Jim, appreciate you stopping by and enjoying and commenting. Don’t forget to like and subscribe. Stay tuned.
What a top video tricky is a good man well done 👍👍👍
Thanks he and I need to do part II soon. Glad your here. More in store
That was good Tim. Next time you talk to tricky, can you ask him about fully grooved main bearings, so the bigend has constant pressure.
I have heard they were not what people thought they were, also half grooved was popular. One thing I have done in the past and to a degree with 409 was to drill oil in bearing through oil slot. Line up with the oil galley.
Love it, got to get it set up for me to get a top five in communication and commentary. Great evening to you all.
Hey John, glad you are here, hope you like the vid. Sorry about the view, not perfect, but just getting into this type of format.
You gotta get Zoran from Competition Engines in Melbourne, Australia on the show Tim - another Cleveland guru 💪 Also, Theo from Pavtek. Don't forget Nathan Higgins ... a lot of secrets could be come out of these interviews. Keep up the good work bloke 👍
Thanks Johnny the boy, appreciate the heads up. I may email them and see if I can set something up. Not real good with the video presentation, but hopefully gets better. Trickie gave me a ton of info. Glad your here supporting my channel. Stay tuned
Absolutely awesome information.
Thanks Joey, I need to get him back on, we’ve talked before he wants to do another live chat, we just have to arrange it so it’s a good timeframe for both of us, since he’s on the other side of the pond
@@DragBoss351Cleveland I just found your channel a couple weeks ago. Been searching info on the cleveland, that's relative also to the 400 (alleged boat anchor , which it isnt). I've got two 400 blocks, and one 400 crank. I also have a 351m crank, and did some research on short rod vs long rod motors. Since the 400 and 351m use the same rods, which makes the 351m have a longer rod than the 351c. Long rod motors have better top end tourqe, and short rod motors have better lower rpm tourqe, but also are harder on the piston skirts against the cylinder walls. I'm wanting to build a 351m with aussie 2v heads, but it's tough to try and find a 0 deck piston for the 351m. I'm also curious how much hp a stock rod from the 400 can safely handle. I'm really glad I found your channel. I've learned alot so far. Thanks for your replying back also.
Hey Joey, I’ve seen some super stock motors that use long rods because it gives you that extra torque and help you at the 60. I would say a stock rod may be good to 450-550 horse, I will not even use a stock rod I will go to Molnar rod, then you never have to worry again. Thanks for being here, and make sure you share with your buddies help me build his channel please thanks man
Cool vid 👌🏼🏁, T&M racing been around, not too far from me & near my work base.....
i do agree with the Oil stuff, i mentioned it in one of my Capri vids. That racing 5-10/30 oil is ok at say 160° & at full noise, but not so good at the 180° temp range or at constant cruising temps..... gone back to old school.
& Yes the Capri Sump requires a custom rear side oil pick up due to the Xmember/steering location & opted for Custom ASR pro-Series sump 10qt 👍🏼🏁
Right on Janks, I appreciate your insight, pretty cool to live so close. Lots of interesting experience, in the real world...Thanks.
@@DragBoss351Cleveland yes for sure, cool chat that was.
The “slit” in the lifter I’d heard of long time ago probably around the time of my NA combo & i did have bronze bushed lifter bores on that, but always thought that groove was done for to bleed off some oil & further help the bushed bore for more lube & back onto the lobe itself 🤷🏼♂️ oh well..... they do make competition style lifters with all them options & mods nowadays also. 👍🏼🏁
@@69JANKS it is cool to hear and see in use. I have always used the pressurized type roller lifter. But will try his mod on one of my builds. Thanks mate.
@@DragBoss351Cleveland right on 👍🏼 , a lot of theories & mods but always good to see or know if it’s been validated by someone who’s done & tried OR dyno’d comparisons etc.... 👍🏼
@@69JANKS for sure. Dyno motors from now on, not going through install and the have to pull for some reason. Little extra but well worth it.
HI Tim That was great ,thanks to Tricky,I have never met him, but seen mags and youtube vids of him,the biggest problem for Clevelands in Aus is blocks,when you want to run into mid 400 cid range,Tim Meyers blocks nearly double by the time you get them here,and the Arrow by what i been told is very exspensive by the time its machined,that might someting to ask Tricky about
Hey mate. Thanks he is great to talk to and shared his knowledge so easy. Blocks are disappearing forever. If someone could make a great block for 2500, they would sell like hot cakes. I have heard close to 5k to get an Arrow machined. Trickie deals with Windsor’s now, since so much aftermarket blocks and parts.
👍 great episode Tim
Thanks Aaron, appreciate you being here, stay tuned.
Loved the interview can't wait to see the next. I wanna build a 500 horse Cleveland for my Foxbody. Any set up recommendations? What I need to do? Thanks in advance, Billy
Your welcome Billy. Glad your here. Pretty easy to build a 500hp cleveland. Just need the right cam, and a few other parts. May make a video on this, briefly. Not that I do anything briefly. Thanks Billy and stay tuned. To see what is next.
The concept of the raised right side pan rail is interesting. I wonder about building a crank girdle/dry sump pan that has a bulge on the right to take advantage of the sling of centrifugal force. The scavenge would also be on this side with a slight slope to the bottom of the pan to direct the oil to that side.
A crank scraper could be incorporated into it as well with a downward slope to the centerline of the crank. The other things that I have thought about is putting a large external drain back from the ends of the heads where the drain back is anyway. It all has to drain back at almost a horizontal angle factory. The drain back could drop straight down to the pan or directly to the scavenge pump. Just some thoughts that came to mind while listening to this and working on the Jeep 2.5 Cleveland head adaptation.
James, I talked to Sherman son, so I will email you his Email, that way you can get in contact with him for your bill. I have not watched a spitting in a while so I forgot about it but what you’re talking about his oil pan kick out, am I correct. But you are right I’ve seen many Cleveland, and other motors for that matter that have dream packs from the back of the heads into the oil pan, top with train back. I appreciate you being here, check your email thanks
Great talk 👍👍
Thanks Steve really appreciate it. Glad your digging the channel for sure.
Good stuff golden mate!
Thanks mate. Glad your here. More in store
On my FE I run Canton deep sump with the trap doors. I still wish they had made a Cleveland 4.63 bore spacing so I could do a 452 FE and man I would love to rip on that!
LOL, those little angels are a handful!!
They sure are. It was unexpected and the way life is. Somethings you can never replace. Stay strong, stay safe.
LOL Trickie rolling out his swag in the Cleveland cave. ( In Aus a swag is different to the rest of the world )
No doubt. I like that Cleveland Cave. Cool. Yes he has a style all himself. Great guy for sure👍👍
The fun part of Deep pans,Guys would bring them into our shop , so we could cut and add an Inch or however much , we would bet them dobble or nothing to weld them up without any leaks on the first shot ,we won alot of money . BTW we did it with an oxy acetylene torch
Dave cool deal, I used to be pretty good at welding with gas, brazing, Have not done that in years though. Thanks for watching my channel, don't forget to subscribe.
Those guys down under no there Clevelands. I watch some of them on UA-cam. There very fast. Thanks 😊!!
For sure Mike, no doubt about that. Someone with expertise can save you a lot of money and headache. Stay tuned Mike.
This has made me think about finishing up the Cleveland rebuild and putting it back in the 65 Ford pickup. Thinking about CHI 3V heads and a modified 351Windsor intake from Trick Flow to put EFI on it. If it works out I could develop an EFI kit for the Cleveland. I have seen a couple guys do it and it is intriguing to me.
There you go, you got the parts do it. Time to get back to making some videos. Lots of good efi kits out there just never wanted to mess with it. Never really like the throttle response with fuel injection.takes so long to come down after you crack the throttle quick and let off. Much different from carb, or at least that is what I remember from the 80s.
@@DragBoss351Cleveland it has to do with the idle air control valve being wide open when you slam the throttle shut then the ECU finds the balance.
@@jamesford2942 so you get it, I’ve never really liked it when you wack the throttle let up with the carburetor comes right back down to low idle and lumpiness, with EFI it still stays up a few hundred RPMs past idle, yeah that’s only thing that ever bother me with it. I remember when fuel Injection was coming out in the mid 80s on a Chrysler 2.2l stuff that’s why I decided to go in the medicine. Lol
Very interesting info
Thanks again Neil. More on the way.
Thanks buddy i remember his cars Downunder they were WICKED
Your welcome Robbie, appreciate the input. Yeah his Capris were and are killa for sure. Thanks for tuning in.
Tim, what pan are you going to when you go rack an pinion and rear sump?
I’m using the Canton, and I think I may be running out of oil.
You can’t use a windage with it BTW.
Mike, I am using same front sump 9 quart pan. Crossmember will be custom. so I can use front or rear sump. Good thing about custom work, make it the way you want it. Then next investment will be a custom rear sump from Stephs.
Tristan, a very smart Ford man from Aussie
Without a doubt in my mind, such a joy to talk engines and flow. Wait until that interview Neil.
Very Cool
tim, what name brand 9qt pan do you run now
Lynn, I run a Moroso 9qt pan. I bought the last one they made, at least 5 years ago. Next one will be stephs aluminum.
Speaking of accents; two things I remember when I was in the States in '87. A lovely Texan girl saying "are you Australian, I loved Crocodile Dundee", proving American's can't pick we're NZ'ers; and meeting a fellow Kiwi on the top of the Empire State Building, by recognising his accent. P.S. we Kiwi's can pick the Aussie accent a mile away !!
I never knew there was a difference. Probably a video on it. We have quite a difference from south to north. Loved that movie. Glad to hear from you mate.
I ran the pipe cleaners in the push rods in my motor to slow the oil down to the top end on my 302 chev motor with roller rockers, joe mar , and roller solid lifters . Spun motor to 7800 with stock rods and arp bolts Yea I learned a lesson on the cross drilled crank bad idea . I been told that running a vacuum in the pan with out a dry sump can cause the oil not to go to the pump . The dry sump and vacuum helps in many ways including longer bearing life I assume that depends on how deep the pan is and if the pick up is always covered with oil even under high GS from the start to when you let off throttle . The dry sump helps get the air that may be entrained oil out , vacuum in the pan I was told helps with ring seal . This is second hand info and I hope this is correct . For sure I never do a cross drilled crank again lol
Thanks Jim, I have never heard of the cross drilled crank deal. Thanks for the heads up too, with your experience. As far as vacuum goes, your right, it helps with ring seal, the main issue is that it can pull oil away from the piston pins. On wet sump, say to limit to 10-12mmhg, I was always told to have the biggest sump you can with a Cleveland.
@@DragBoss351Cleveland I never had a Ford race car. But I have a huge respect for them . Thanks for all you do . Glad you never heard of the cross drilled cranks . It's a bad idea
@@jimkillen1065 so are stock cleveland cranks. They contribute to oil issues after 6800 rpm.
@@DragBoss351Cleveland speaking of bearing I remember being told back when that going to the smaller bearing was worth some hp at 10k . I built my motor using a new larger journal 350 crank with a 3 inch stroke. I think I was told 15 but that might be off . I remember being told that after about .020 over bore he lost hp ..I was thinking block seal to the freeze plugs might a help that
Awesome
Thanks Musky, glad you were into it, stay tuned.
I have a dual thermostat housing I adapted to mine. It runs a nice cool 160-175. 65-70 psi oil. On 15 w40
The dual thermo's really did the trick. I never knew how much a Cleveland likes running cool. With 2 thermo's when there half way open, it''s the same as one being fully open. So what you get is max flow capacity in half the time. I have yet to see how it does on upper 90's days. If I need to I can still convert all the hoses to 2" hoses. I found the only thing that really works is getting that water swapped out as fast as possible. I also have a 3V pulley so the pump is driven off the bigger crank pulley. Had to put all silicon hoses because the rubber ones blew up like balloons under the extra pressure. It moves a lot of water fast now. Do you run water in your race motors? Have you really worked on the cooling? Since there is so much more I could do to get more water flow and swap out faster, I bet it can stay cool even over 1k hp. Hone the 2 holes in the head bigger for one. The hole the OE thermostat is 2". So make it flow that full 2" all the way to radiator. External dual thermostat housing. Have made out of billet alum. 2" inlet, outlet, and change inlet on radiator to 2". It's necessary to run hard pipe from the block to thermostat housing and have new 2" water neck made. I think the bottom can go up to 1 5/8 to match water pump inlet. Keep that motor cooler, oil stays cool, better pressure, stays in place better and of coarse last longer. And less heat on everything attached to motor, and intake temps. Tons of HP to be had with keeping it cooler I think.
I have never had any issues with cooling, you need to run the correct Cleveland TStat. Your set up sounds efficient for sure. I run water, with water wetter. Thinking of trying Evans coolant. Supposed to be even better in every way. Good to see people sharing their ideas and experience thank you CountryBoy!
@@DragBoss351Cleveland I did run the correct Cleveland t-stat. The Shaw t-stat with the copper thing on the bottom. It alone will never make a built Cleveland run at 160. It ran at 190, and over 200 on hot days. I was not happy with that. You missed my whole point. 160 is way cooler then 190 or 200. You spoke about temps to 220. To me, that's a problem. I have always read, and heard that Clevelands run at 195 and I should accept that number. 200+ on hot days. I refused to accept that. I have not heard of any one with a built Cleveland running at 160. But I have one now. ANd like I said, I never knew how much the Cleveland loves running at 160.
Also after running the "correct" tstat, I tried plugging that bypass hole and drilling a 1/8th inch hole in it and tried a normal t-stat. It worked. So no, you don't really "need" that correct one.
You went to the conventional cliche reply to any one who mentions Cleveland cooling. You missed my whole point.
@@starbattles1 I think you may have missed ours. We are talking oil temps, not coolant temps. Coolant temps are contributory, to oil temps. We were talking about oil temp during dyno testing. 180-190 great, but start to be concerning when oil starts to get to 200+. For water temp. My combo runs the best at 175-80.
@@DragBoss351Cleveland Yea, and what is responsible for the temp of the motor and oil? WATER.
2 t-stats opening at once gives you 2x the flow in half the time. Maybe I should say, twice the cooling in half the time. If you can't see how that is a benefit, I guess I am talking to the wrong guy.
I don't live or think inside the box. I live and think outside the box. You can keep your little box and stay constrained to those parameters. I like to explore new idea's and figure things out no one else has.
After all, that is exactly how the original Cleveland was developed. Outside the box.
You were talking about oil temps, so I talked about cooling. Seems pretty relevant to me. And probably most other people too.
Don't worry, you won't hear from me no more.
@@starbattles1 not sure why you getting offended. I understand that what you are saying about water temps. You have a good point. Mine was with a filled block, the oil gets hotter faster. I was only talking about the effects of the increase in oil temps, and ring seal. You are right about what you are saying, cooler water, cooler oil. Just focusing on that, since my engine runs 170-180, anyway. But like I said if it works for you, then use it. Sorry if I did not acknowledge your point as you feel it should be validated. Guys on here can read the comments and you have contributed quite a bit. If some one does not see things your way or my way. Who cares, it’s about sharing your experience. It’s about dialogue. Your right the improved cooling is a win win situation. Getting a pro form radiator fan with built in shroud to see if I can improve. Also thinking about oil cooler. Hope you stay, as your thoughts are good to hear, and I appreciate them. Stay tuned.
So Dragboss I'm thinking of doing a 408 stroker 5 to 600 hp for my foxbody trick flow has a aluminium heads, intake and top end set up
"twisted wedge" to keep it fuel injected and stock in appearance. I guess my question is if I do a set up like that with intentions of a turbo later my oiling system should be fine stock? And any recommendations on style of bearing coated, dirty, etc?
I would say from talking With Trickie, I would say yes, on NA, when it comes to power adders, not sure. I suspect it should be good. But depends on bearing clearances, and are you talking lifter bore bushings, usually stock oil system, is good to safe less than 7k. I use coated bearings as to me, the little things make a difference and add up. Did you watch my video on the whole oil pathway yet?
I did, I was having trouble with the picture at first but once you started explaining it it really clicked in. I probably won't spend to much time in high rpm's because I'm not going for drag racing more cruising than anything.
@@Darrin_Wyatt if your not running past 6900 maybe even 7k you should be ok. With fuel injection, it can be a win win situation. Glad you here Darin, appreciate it.
I have been running a street Cleavlands for over 50 yrs. and have found Clevland's love boost/turbo and nitrous 'light them up' I use nitrous to 5lbs then turbo takes over, it flyes I use a 20/50 vavaline vr1 I have 125 oil press cold comes down to 35 when at a stop at 200fH% but jumps wright up to 75 when I hit the gas, hot all engines show good ware, for a play toy. frirst engine was a test for a young man and i had to increase the engines strength to sursive the tork. lots had to be done but i am satisfied with my results. car runs great in 10s lots fun. was a chevy man until this ford
Wow that’s a lot of oil pressure fluctuation. How did then blocks hold up to that cylinder pressure? Good experience there
You guys' impression of an Aussie accent sounds like you are trying to sound like pirates at sea from the late 1700's ..Yo me hearties! We're sailing for Treasure sure!!
Yes we had fun with that Matey. Kids walk around trying to speak with that accent, still funny to hear them. Thanks Chuck.
Like your clev videos I saw your welded tunnel ram in Glidden video I am in Findlay I built 10 sec clev in 70s I sent fb friend request I been searching for 9.2 intake for my yates heads in your video mine like what you said c302b all outside bolts same length I Have 2865 Sc1 intake was hoping shave to fit after checking don't think enough
Thanks Ed, I happen to have on on the shelf, edlebrock. Been saving it for a Yates combo someday. It won’t fit the C302b it is raised even more, pretty sure I checked it out of I’m not mistaken. Unless your just saying your heads are Yates and all exhaust bolt bosses are the same. Glad your here. I may sell the Yates intake
Im collecting parts for my 408 build and this is extremely important for me to understand correctly, so please correct me if I misunderstood him. He is saying that if my 408 is not twisted over 6500 or 6800 I should get a 8 or 9qt pan, do lifter bushings and a .003 groove, standard oil pump, and not touch anything else. Or should I not even do the .003 groove. This is something I would like you to touch on a little more in detail, especially since I plan on taking my block to the machine shop soon. After I get it back would ne to late.
What he is saying Daniel, is for 6500-6800, don’t need any changes, engine should be fine, for rpm greater than 6800, that he cuts the small groove in lifter and installs bronze bushings, without any other hole in lifter bushing and 8+ qt pan. Hope this clarifies. Thanks for watching and commenting. Please subscribe Daniel.
Awesome thank you. Im gonna go with it. One more question. If I don't do lifter bushings will I have a problem with the roller lifters popping out? What lifters should I use? Love this channel, keep up the awesome work.
@@danielsmith96 you should be good. Buy a quality lifter. I use crane ultra pro or bam. Make sure they have edm, which is pressurized oiling. You going to run a roller?
Yes sir Im gonna run a hydraulic roller.
@@danielsmith96 ok so that rpm want to keep in the 220 -230 ish at .050.
Strange the 351 C required work if raced while the LS is worshiped while having a very similar system. 🤔 Bob Glidden 👍
I know what you mean Tom. Not an LS fan here, lm too old school. 👍👍 on Bob Glidden.
The new motor needs to be built on a PAVTEK aftermarket block though *wink*
None of them around here. The only other block I have heard of is the Arrow. Is that what they are using?
So if I’m understanding all this correctly, large oil capacity, 10 psi of oil pressure per 1000 rpm, and the 3 thousands modification and your good to 7ish
Nick, basically if you keep it under 7k for most part, don’t need any oil mods. But you are correct deep pan is important, but again if you keep it under 7, stock pan idle good. If engine apart, massage those oil passages like on my previous videos. Thanks Nick.
@@DragBoss351Cleveland that’ll be perfect for my 408 I’m building now
@@nickshasteen6385 yes I will also try it on one of my next builds. Appreciate your input. 408, will really surprise you for sure.
You have to put 2 pipe cleaners in each pushrod and they will not come out.
Steve, think I will pass on that. Have you done this? So many different perspectives on oiling. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I agree on passing but yes I have done it. It was a hyd. and I couldn't restrict it before the lifter. It works but there are better ways. Your guest admited to trying it but they were coming out.
@@stevewelborn8744 cool thanks for sharing your experience. I have only used oil restrictors/ cam bearings. Thanks for contributing to my channel Steve
Talking to the man... just listen yanky boy
I’m listening
I have a 400 , anyone need it..?