Depending on whether you want to just restore original performance or want improved performance and don't mind addition noise, you should keep this in mind. Stock mounts are good for comfort.
I changed out my m mounts at about 78k miles, but replaced them with new OEM parts. Still, the improvement was marked, one of the best mods I have made to my 997.1
Lol, "I don't have a vice grip that's like, attached to a table or something..." ...you mean, a vice? Sorry couldn't help it, but this video is awesome. I've been considering these but wasn't sure if they'd be too much of a pain to put in...this is way easier than I expected, gonna go for it. Thanks a ton.
What your feeling & hearing is vibration being transferred thru the chassis, Later models had electronic tunable engine mounts, Ie sport, sport plus ect.
Would this be for all three bolts? Or just the top two? If you mean the bottom one as well should we be supporting the engine (via jackstand/wood block) while it's idling?
did RSS engine mounts a while ago … more recent at Dundon Street header and am even lighter single mass flywheel clutch kit and now bad NVH buzz rattling cabin and rear view so much it is blurry … thinking the engine mounts are now over top with other mods ?
Ok, so...... In engine design the engineers have to consider vibration and harmonics. Not just what you can hear in your ear but the harmonics transmitted through the engine and the car itself. What you have essentially done by using engine mounts that are stiffer than the original equipment. (lets not forget the billions porky use on RnD) is change the harmonic resonance of the structure shifting the vibrations exit point to another route or at the very least you have possibly stifled the ability of the engine to dissipate any harmonic energy it generates. Don't know if you cared, good vid. I have found your Cayenne vids very helpful. Thanks. Sorry I should add. Harmonic resonance matters because it can generate heat and wear, not to mention tiny stress fractures over time.
You're absolutely right and I've read from true experts that vibration causes retardation to the timing which is not a good thing. They recommend to replace the engine mounts with the OEM.
All valid points! I've heard of solid engine mounts triggering the knock sensor but I haven't heard any reports on the semi solid mounts. I'm excited to get more seat time with the mounts, especially on track in a few weeks. I'll report back on how I like them.
@@CarFanatic To be fair, stiffer mounts are used in racing from short periods and changed accordingly for various situations. They are just not right IMHO for long term street use. Of course it's all subjective. fair play to you for using them if it's what you like. I am certainly not a purest but I am a Porsche fan and trust their RnD on that 997 for street use, it's intended purpose.
Great video- just watched it again. 2 very stupid questions: 1. If you use "permanent" thread lock how are you then able to change out the bushings between the three? 2. If you are using an impact driver before a torque wrench doesn't that just over tighten the nuts? It doesn't look like your impact driver is adjustable for ft. lbs. like a torque wrench. Next question- are you still enjoying the mounts? I hope so! I am looking at these or some from RSS. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.
1. The permanent thread locker just keeps the stud permanently attached to the engine mount. You can still remove the nut and swap bushings. 2. The impact wrench is just used to get the bolt on most of the way but not fully tightened. 3. I did swap the mounts out because it was just a tad too harsh.
I just discovered your channel and wanted to catch up to you. I’m a PCA member and have owned about 45 Porsches. I just picked up a 997.1 TTC that needs some TLC and I’m in Phoenix…it would have made some great content for your channel!
My Mechanic Races his 996 and Setup my 996 with stock motor mounts . Bilstein B16 PSS 10 adjustable coil overs are what Transformed my Car. Not a Track Car.
This was a great video and really helped me with my installation. I would like to share my experience with one issue so hopefully others will avoid it. I set my stud with permanent lock tite the day before my installation to give it the full 24 hours to cure. The issue I had was when I tightened the carrier nut to line up with the square hole, I couldn’t get there with a tightening sequence. I had to back it up an 8th turn. This meant when I was installing the 18mm nut underneath, the middle of the mount started slipping. This made the process a lot harder than it needed to be. Had I set the stud minutes before installing, I would have had a bit more tightening ability on the stud and square nut which would have avoided my headache.
I recall a video from Jake at Flat6 innovations with a test showing an after market motor mount degrading motor output. It was the semi solid variety I believe. I went with OEM.
GREAT to see new videos from you! Hope all is well after your move to AZ from the Bay Area. Your content is directly relevant to me since I own a 6-speed manual 2012 Carrera C4S (997.2). I would like to try the mods you have done. Considering the DSC controller, and now the new engine mounts, thanks to you!
Hi. I had a question for you. I am in the process of installing these mounts. Just not sure if I want the blue or yellow. I'm leaning toward the blue. I really like a sporty/GT car feel. Do you feel the yellow are more than enough for that nice tight GT3 feel??? Or would the blue be overkill??? Are the yellow a significant increase over stock? This is a streetcar that will have a Powerflow engine mount. Your feedback would be greatly appreciated.
Replacing totally shot engine mounts as yours were (you cannot wiggle new ones) with OEM is like night and day. I would suggest to anyone not tracking their M96 engined Pcar to just get the OEM. These poly type mounts transfer so much vibration through the chassis and is a bit much on an old daily driver IMO.
Agreed. You can check out my other video where I installed new OEM ones. They still had some play. I settled with just filling my original mounts with polyurethane.
I am noticing clunking on the rear of my 997. Almost as if the engine is bouncing around when going over bumpy roads. I never noticed or felt the clunking before and I am wondering if the rear suspension is shot or maybe replace the engine mounts and hope that fixes the problem. I am looking to maybe have the entire suspension re-done. Front and back. Also, if you had to guess. What do you think a full suspension job would cost. I am thinking something in the 5k range. Nothing flashy just enough to make the car enjoyable and drivable. I do not have plans to track the car so I do not want to go over the top on cost.
I have the same thing with mine, I just bought these mounts and will be installing next week. I notice BIG TIME when I punch it the weight in the rear shifts left and when I come off it shifts again. I believe you have a mount issue too. Push down on the back of the car compressing the suspension if it bounces it's your shocks/struts if it is stiff and returns to pre-push position without bounce or play, it's your mounts. I was looking for new struts for the car and they can be bought or OEM style Blistein for $2500 this is a much cheaper and just want Doc Porsche ordered from beyond the veil
Yes, this is good information. The results and differences make sense. I just did the mounts on a MB 300E with 100k, and I also felt a big difference. Every link in the chain is important and serves a purpose. Thanks.
Totally transforms - you've been reading too many sensation headlines. Even in your video you say there is more noise and vibration - but the car is still the same, right? I am about to change my rear mounts. Most likely I will go with the OEM because there are some stories telling that the Rennline and alike mounts cause the knock detector trig. Also the stiffer mounts may help the car to feel more composed, it may make the gear shift a bit more accurate. Heaven knows that up to 997 the 911 gear shift has never been the best: long throw and a bit vague. However, theoretically, a more flexible and damped mount will actually improve friction between the tyre and road as all the impulses are damped and widened in time axis. it sort of gives more suspension compliance to a big mass and it does not hit like an iron hammer but a bean bag. I dont know what is the best but I do know it will not totally transform the car. It may change it a bit. And really, have you ever done a long trip in any 911. No, you do not want more noise. Not even in the new ones. It is a bloody loud car to drive a long motorway.
Great feedback and, yes, the title is a bit sensational. But, people just don't click on videos as much unless you can get their attention. I think you may be right about the softer mounts providing more grip. I did hit a bump mid corner and felt the rear end skip a lot more than before. Stiffer suspensions really only increase group on smooth surfaces. You're also right about road noise. The car stock is pretty noisy already, mainly from the tires. At some point, I may switch back to OEM, but I'm going to see how I like these over the coming months! Thanks for watching and hope you're subscribed!
Excellent instruction video. Thanks! Off-topic question: Why are some of your digital displays on your dash (i.e. odometer) flashing and some are not (i.e. mph)?
That's just how the LED display shows up on camera. The lights aren't continuously on but flash at a really high frequency, so the camera picks this up.
Did you notice the reduction in engine movement? That means there is less energy loss when you apply the throttle. That energy gets transmitted more quickly to the wheels, which gives better throttle response.
Awesome video!! Very informative as well 🙌. I’ll be receiving my motor back from LN Engineering soon and have been looking into which motor mounts to upgrade to. Note: I’m going from a 3.6 L to 4.0 L conversion. 2005 - 997.1 base model. Just liked & subscribed to you! 🤙
That's interesting! Remember your videos a long time ago before i bought my 997.2. Anyway, i looked in the history of my car and the mounts have been replaced, but i can feel the movement on mine. I noticed you said about your shift feel, mine also struggles to get into 1st sometimes, have you got the SSK in yours? Mine has it, mine also is a bit crunchy going from 1st to 2nd when it's cold, do/did you experience that in yours? Have the new mounts helped with it? Would love to know!
The Rennline mounts seemed to help. I have a new video coming out soon showing the Rennline mounts vs. new OEM mounts. Summary: new OEM mounts won't make a big difference unless your original mounts are really shot. Rennline = much better performance however some may not be okay with the additional NVH. With my muffler mods, the Rennline mounts added too much harshness, so I swapped to the new OEM mounts. If you want something in between, you could try the Function First engine mounts. Hope this helps!
I had my 997 motor mounts replaced also, I can definitely feel the difference. I went with the OEM motor mounts, and I figure they are good for 60K-80K miles
Thanks a lot! My 997.1 has slightly worn engine mounts and I’ve been interested in swapping them for a while, but the previous DIY videos on UA-cam weren’t that good. Some of them didn’t address how to jack up the engine or how to assemble the new mounts. I really like that you actually went step by step. I’m still on the fence because my car does have some rattles but I may do this next spring.
No problem! I would recommend going with the OEM engine mounts then. I just swapped the Rennline mounts with new OEM ones to test the difference. I think I like the OEM ones better overall because of the quietness. But the Rennline mounts made my car feel a lot more responsive. Tradeoffs. Pick your poison :)
REALLY Enjoyed this video, my own 997.2 S would love some upgrades.. If I could selfishly ask for something it would be ways to improve the high speed stability, which on my Porsche after 250kmh gets pretty floaty, so please ask a a body work company to sponsor a video! So we can see a before and after
It sounds like you are changing gears at much lower rpm than recommended. At what rpm do you get the maximum torque? What’s the redline? Come on man, drive it properly not like an old taxi driver.
@@CarFanatic they were super easy to put in. I ended up buying them from pelican parts because I also had to buy a passenger side exhaust muffler also. Did both jobs myself in my garage and saved $2300 in labor Porsche wanted to charge. Car runs great.
Good vid, keep it up. I have a question for your viewers or you. I have a 2005 997 Carrera, 128k on the clock. Like you enjoy spending time keeping it in top condition. My most annoying issue that exists today is drive train slack. That is to say, I'm driving in top gear on the freeway, cruising on constant throttle, lift off the throttle and then apply throttle and I notice significant slack in the drive, as if there was play in the gear box, or some other culprit. If you go on off the throttle to exacerbate it it's as if there is an inch of take up slack somewhere before the power connects to the wheels. Engine mounts been replaced with OEM so it's not that, I checked the gear box rubber mount and that looks ok, not split or worn out. Clutch changes at 70k, it's not slipping and I certain it's not a clutch related issue. Selecting gears is not a problem. I'm fairly sure I've narrowed it down to inner CV joints, basically because I'm running out of things it could be, and this seems logical. Anyone else experienced this? I've been aware of this slack for probably the last 50k, so it's not just happened, can't say for sure its getting worse but it's the 1 giveaway my cold is old and done many miles. You can feel the slack in any gear, but it's when freeway cruising is most obvious. Cheers for any feedback anyone may have.
It looks like you haven't relaxed the transmission mount. It may not be cracked but it is most likely no as stiff anymore. I'd try that next since it is a cheap and easy fix.
I did my motor mounts today. Important lesson learned. If you plan to do one mount at a time there is a pretty good chance the engine may shift being that now the jack and the mount on the opposite side are supporting the weight of the engine and maybe a slight amount of the weight of the car. Also, I set the jack up to favor the left side of the oil pan (drive side). When I undid the 18 MM nut at the bottom of the driver side mount, the engine dropped about 2 inches and shot out the 18 MM nut. The bracket that receives the mount at the bottom shifted about two inches towards the rear of the car. In that state the mount would never line up to the bracket. Trying to jack the engine up to get it line up made things worse. Using a separate jack I supported the right side of the engine and removed the 18 MM nut at the bottom of the passenger side mount and then the two 13 MMW nuts at the top. I then used the jacks to lift the engine and get it line up with the holes and was able to insert the mounts. Torqued the the specs mentioned here and the exhaust line up to where it was previously. About and inch gap from the bumper. If I had to do it over I would have supported the engine from the center (oil pan) distributing the weight with a board and then proceed to remove the fasteners on both sides. Trying to do one at a time did not work for me. Having said that...your video still came in handy and gave me the confidence to tackle this job. Thanks.
Interesting. I supported the engine at the center of the oil pan using a piece of wood to distribute the weight as you mentioned. The engine didn't shift and the install went smoothly. Good tip. Thanks for sharing!
I’m doing this now and noticed the engine carrier piece is coming down with the 18mm nut. I’m terrified it’ll do just that, drop the engine so low I won’t be able to line it up again on the long stud of the new mount. I’m supporting with a jack at the center of sump with a board. But I chickened out of loosening it all the way and will rethink this as a DIY for me.
@@rlippincott-zl6qp so long as you keep the engine supported at the center you should be fine. Do both mounts at the same time rather than one at a time.
Got it sorted. The old mounts were so much longer I had to jack the engine up a good 1” so that the new stud was exposed to accept the 18mm nut (997.1 model). Thanks for this video and the comments! Helped me a lot.
Good knowledge to gain although I have no desire to change it to stiffer mount like yours. Thank you very much for your video. Your videos are always helpful. But a small criticism on your captions. Your captions are grammatically incorrect and made me confused. You said :"Only break loose the bolt when you're under the car". It just doesn't make sense. "Only" should have been put after "bolt" to make it correct and "do not remove it entirely" could've been added to make it clearer with either position with "Only". Now that I watched entire video, it makes sense either way but at the beginning, I had to pause and think about what you meant. Keep up the good work.
Link to Rennline Engine Mounts: ecarguides.com/product/rennline-tunable-semi-solid-engine-trans-mount-pair/
I NEED new engine mounts on my 997! Thank you soo much for this vid! Super helpful!
Depending on whether you want to just restore original performance or want improved performance and don't mind addition noise, you should keep this in mind. Stock mounts are good for comfort.
I changed out my m mounts at about 78k miles, but replaced them with new OEM parts. Still, the improvement was marked, one of the best mods I have made to my 997.1
Interesting. I had no idea engine mounts would affect the car that much. Good vid.
Lol, "I don't have a vice grip that's like, attached to a table or something..." ...you mean, a vice? Sorry couldn't help it, but this video is awesome. I've been considering these but wasn't sure if they'd be too much of a pain to put in...this is way easier than I expected, gonna go for it. Thanks a ton.
Hi my 997.2 is really crashing at the back over bumps. Could this be the engine mounts? By the way what bushings did you go with?
What your feeling & hearing is vibration being transferred thru the chassis, Later models had electronic tunable engine mounts, Ie sport, sport plus ect.
Pro-tip: idle the engine, loosen the engine mount bolts and then re torque. This will eliminate a lot of NVH, especially on stiff or solid mounts.
Would this be for all three bolts? Or just the top two? If you mean the bottom one as well should we be supporting the engine (via jackstand/wood block) while it's idling?
@@ericmwalshAll bolts just barely loosened so the engine can settle in place before torquing the bolts down.
Idle the engine with the air box off?
did RSS engine mounts a while ago … more recent at Dundon Street header and am even lighter single mass flywheel clutch kit and now bad NVH buzz rattling cabin and rear view so much it is blurry … thinking the engine mounts are now over top with other mods ?
A man has needs. One of those needs are a sturdy work bench bolted to the floor and a solid USA-made vice of at least 4 inches.
Lol, I don't disagree. One day when I am in my forever home...
Good tutorial. Will stick with oem for replacement. Updating suspension will be a good mod for handling without the vibration.
nice to know why I should have those on my car thanks!
Ok, so...... In engine design the engineers have to consider vibration and harmonics. Not just what you can hear in your ear but the harmonics transmitted through the engine and the car itself. What you have essentially done by using engine mounts that are stiffer than the original equipment. (lets not forget the billions porky use on RnD) is change the harmonic resonance of the structure shifting the vibrations exit point to another route or at the very least you have possibly stifled the ability of the engine to dissipate any harmonic energy it generates. Don't know if you cared, good vid. I have found your Cayenne vids very helpful. Thanks. Sorry I should add. Harmonic resonance matters because it can generate heat and wear, not to mention tiny stress fractures over time.
You're absolutely right and I've read from true experts that vibration causes retardation to the timing which is not a good thing. They recommend to replace the engine mounts with the OEM.
All valid points! I've heard of solid engine mounts triggering the knock sensor but I haven't heard any reports on the semi solid mounts. I'm excited to get more seat time with the mounts, especially on track in a few weeks. I'll report back on how I like them.
@@CarFanatic yeah definitely keep us in the loop with your new mounts.
@@CarFanatic To be fair, stiffer mounts are used in racing from short periods and changed accordingly for various situations. They are just not right IMHO for long term street use. Of course it's all subjective. fair play to you for using them if it's what you like. I am certainly not a purest but I am a Porsche fan and trust their RnD on that 997 for street use, it's intended purpose.
Great video- just watched it again. 2 very stupid questions:
1. If you use "permanent" thread lock how are you then able to change out the bushings between the three?
2. If you are using an impact driver before a torque wrench doesn't that just over tighten the nuts? It doesn't look like your impact driver is adjustable for ft. lbs. like a torque wrench.
Next question- are you still enjoying the mounts? I hope so! I am looking at these or some from RSS. Any thoughts?
Thanks in advance.
1. The permanent thread locker just keeps the stud permanently attached to the engine mount. You can still remove the nut and swap bushings. 2. The impact wrench is just used to get the bolt on most of the way but not fully tightened. 3. I did swap the mounts out because it was just a tad too harsh.
@@CarFanatic swapped out the mounts to what? Did you remove the SS mounts and return to stock?
Always love to see mods and maintenance on your 911. Great job!
Thank you!
I just discovered your channel and wanted to catch up to you. I’m a PCA member and have owned about 45 Porsches. I just picked up a 997.1 TTC that needs some TLC and I’m in Phoenix…it would have made some great content for your channel!
Yes, I am so happy to see you putting out more videos! This is awesome and gives me a great place to look for new engine mounts!
My Mechanic Races his 996 and Setup my 996 with stock motor mounts . Bilstein B16 PSS 10 adjustable coil overs are what Transformed my Car. Not a Track Car.
This is awesome! Thank you for making this and listing a complete breakdown with links. I’m ordering a set.
Awesome! Let me know how you like it! Thanks for watching and hope you're subscribed!
So... Porsche - I mean... PORSCHE - never spotted, not even once, what a guy found out with his Havaianas... Hard to believe, isn't it?!
This was a great video and really helped me with my installation. I would like to share my experience with one issue so hopefully others will avoid it. I set my stud with permanent lock tite the day before my installation to give it the full 24 hours to cure. The issue I had was when I tightened the carrier nut to line up with the square hole, I couldn’t get there with a tightening sequence. I had to back it up an 8th turn. This meant when I was installing the 18mm nut underneath, the middle of the mount started slipping. This made the process a lot harder than it needed to be. Had I set the stud minutes before installing, I would have had a bit more tightening ability on the stud and square nut which would have avoided my headache.
I recall a video from Jake at Flat6 innovations with a test showing an after market motor mount degrading motor output. It was the semi solid variety I believe. I went with OEM.
Agreed the cheapest mod that makes such a difference. I drive a 996 turbo, and yes, new engine mounts would be the first thing I'd ever recommend.
Thank you. I decided against these mounts based upon your video. I hate more vibrations. 😉
do you really think, that the fabricator of these engine mounds are smarter than porsche engineers?
I really appreciate your 997.2 videos - helps an “office rat” like me a lot to work on my car! 👍🏼
GREAT to see new videos from you! Hope all is well after your move to AZ from the Bay Area. Your content is directly relevant to me since I own a 6-speed manual 2012 Carrera C4S (997.2). I would like to try the mods you have done. Considering the DSC controller, and now the new engine mounts, thanks to you!
Hi. I had a question for you. I am in the process of installing these mounts. Just not sure if I want the blue or yellow. I'm leaning toward the blue. I really like a sporty/GT car feel. Do you feel the yellow are more than enough for that nice tight GT3 feel??? Or would the blue be overkill??? Are the yellow a significant increase over stock? This is a streetcar that will have a Powerflow engine mount. Your feedback would be greatly appreciated.
I think the yellow should be sufficient.
Replacing totally shot engine mounts as yours were (you cannot wiggle new ones) with OEM is like night and day. I would suggest to anyone not tracking their M96 engined Pcar to just get the OEM. These poly type mounts transfer so much vibration through the chassis and is a bit much on an old daily driver IMO.
Agreed. You can check out my other video where I installed new OEM ones. They still had some play. I settled with just filling my original mounts with polyurethane.
I am noticing clunking on the rear of my 997. Almost as if the engine is bouncing around when going over bumpy roads. I never noticed or felt the clunking before and I am wondering if the rear suspension is shot or maybe replace the engine mounts and hope that fixes the problem. I am looking to maybe have the entire suspension re-done. Front and back.
Also, if you had to guess. What do you think a full suspension job would cost. I am thinking something in the 5k range. Nothing flashy just enough to make the car enjoyable and drivable. I do not have plans to track the car so I do not want to go over the top on cost.
I have the same thing with mine, I just bought these mounts and will be installing next week. I notice BIG TIME when I punch it the weight in the rear shifts left and when I come off it shifts again. I believe you have a mount issue too. Push down on the back of the car compressing the suspension if it bounces it's your shocks/struts if it is stiff and returns to pre-push position without bounce or play, it's your mounts. I was looking for new struts for the car and they can be bought or OEM style Blistein for $2500 this is a much cheaper and just want Doc Porsche ordered from beyond the veil
Yes, this is good information. The results and differences make sense. I just did the mounts on a MB 300E with 100k, and I also felt a big difference. Every link in the chain is important and serves a purpose. Thanks.
Totally transforms - you've been reading too many sensation headlines. Even in your video you say there is more noise and vibration - but the car is still the same, right?
I am about to change my rear mounts. Most likely I will go with the OEM because there are some stories telling that the Rennline and alike mounts cause the knock detector trig.
Also the stiffer mounts may help the car to feel more composed, it may make the gear shift a bit more accurate. Heaven knows that up to 997 the 911 gear shift has never been the best: long throw and a bit vague. However, theoretically, a more flexible and damped mount will actually improve friction between the tyre and road as all the impulses are damped and widened in time axis. it sort of gives more suspension compliance to a big mass and it does not hit like an iron hammer but a bean bag.
I dont know what is the best but I do know it will not totally transform the car. It may change it a bit. And really, have you ever done a long trip in any 911. No, you do not want more noise. Not even in the new ones. It is a bloody loud car to drive a long motorway.
Great feedback and, yes, the title is a bit sensational. But, people just don't click on videos as much unless you can get their attention. I think you may be right about the softer mounts providing more grip. I did hit a bump mid corner and felt the rear end skip a lot more than before. Stiffer suspensions really only increase group on smooth surfaces. You're also right about road noise. The car stock is pretty noisy already, mainly from the tires. At some point, I may switch back to OEM, but I'm going to see how I like these over the coming months! Thanks for watching and hope you're subscribed!
Excellent instruction video. Thanks! Off-topic question: Why are some of your digital displays on your dash (i.e. odometer) flashing and some are not (i.e. mph)?
That's just how the LED display shows up on camera. The lights aren't continuously on but flash at a really high frequency, so the camera picks this up.
Can someone explain to me how in the world engine mounts improve throttle response??????? 11:50 Placebo effect much????
Did you notice the reduction in engine movement? That means there is less energy loss when you apply the throttle. That energy gets transmitted more quickly to the wheels, which gives better throttle response.
Thank you for the walk thru. This has been on my to do and I am now motivated to do it! Is that an x51 intake?
Awesome video!! Very informative as well 🙌. I’ll be receiving my motor back from LN Engineering soon and have been looking into which motor mounts to upgrade to. Note: I’m going from a 3.6 L to 4.0 L conversion.
2005 - 997.1 base model.
Just liked & subscribed to you! 🤙
Vang, how is your engine? How long did it take to get the new motor? Thanks!
I want to go semi solid mounts. Fully solid mounts are little too much sometimes.
That's interesting! Remember your videos a long time ago before i bought my 997.2. Anyway, i looked in the history of my car and the mounts have been replaced, but i can feel the movement on mine. I noticed you said about your shift feel, mine also struggles to get into 1st sometimes, have you got the SSK in yours? Mine has it, mine also is a bit crunchy going from 1st to 2nd when it's cold, do/did you experience that in yours? Have the new mounts helped with it? Would love to know!
The Rennline mounts seemed to help. I have a new video coming out soon showing the Rennline mounts vs. new OEM mounts. Summary: new OEM mounts won't make a big difference unless your original mounts are really shot. Rennline = much better performance however some may not be okay with the additional NVH. With my muffler mods, the Rennline mounts added too much harshness, so I swapped to the new OEM mounts. If you want something in between, you could try the Function First engine mounts. Hope this helps!
Did you consider replacing the Alternator Pulley (Manual Transmission)?
Nope.
Badass video. Keep the Porsche stuff coming.
I had my 997 motor mounts replaced also, I can definitely feel the difference. I went with the OEM motor mounts, and I figure they are good for 60K-80K miles
Sounds about right. Nice!
Great job, keep them coming.
Great video. Did you ever find out what’s the noise coming from your door? I might have the same thing (driver side).
Yes, it turned out to be the door handle spring. But that might not be the cause of your rattle.
@@CarFanatic thank you. I’ll do some investigating.
Thanks a lot! My 997.1 has slightly worn engine mounts and I’ve been interested in swapping them for a while, but the previous DIY videos on UA-cam weren’t that good. Some of them didn’t address how to jack up the engine or how to assemble the new mounts. I really like that you actually went step by step. I’m still on the fence because my car does have some rattles but I may do this next spring.
No problem! I would recommend going with the OEM engine mounts then. I just swapped the Rennline mounts with new OEM ones to test the difference. I think I like the OEM ones better overall because of the quietness. But the Rennline mounts made my car feel a lot more responsive. Tradeoffs. Pick your poison :)
PS I have a new video coming out soon showing the before and after results of new OEM mounts vs the original and rennline mounts!
Nice work! Just added them to my amazon cart!
REALLY Enjoyed this video, my own 997.2 S would love some upgrades.. If I could selfishly ask for something it would be ways to improve the high speed stability, which on my Porsche after 250kmh gets pretty floaty, so please ask a a body work company to sponsor a video! So we can see a before and after
I thought the whole purpose of owning a Porsche 911 was that it was stable at high speeds???
@@bigmacdaddy1234 perhaps it's just my car (or me) , anything over 250 KMH she gets VERY light at the front, doesn't feel planted at all
It sounds like you are changing gears at much lower rpm than recommended. At what rpm do you get the maximum torque? What’s the redline? Come on man, drive it properly not like an old taxi driver.
If I were on a race track, yeah, I'd shift much later. On the road, anywhere between 3-4k RPM is a good shifting point.
However he drives the car is not your problem. You don't have to rev it up to drive the car. Lower rev is always better for engine longevity.
A47 K48 have you ever had the chance to drive a 911? If not then pls shut the f up
Great job.
Thank you and hope you're subscribed!
Great video. Thanks!
Hey bought mounts for 2009 Carrera from rennline today based on your video. Thx
Awesome, let me know how you like them.
@@CarFanatic they were super easy to put in. I ended up buying them from pelican parts because I also had to buy a passenger side exhaust muffler also. Did both jobs myself in my garage and saved $2300 in labor Porsche wanted to charge. Car runs great.
@@CarFanatic rennline said they are sister companies with pelican and to just buy both from them.
Good vid, keep it up. I have a question for your viewers or you. I have a 2005 997 Carrera, 128k on the clock. Like you enjoy spending time keeping it in top condition. My most annoying issue that exists today is drive train slack. That is to say, I'm driving in top gear on the freeway, cruising on constant throttle, lift off the throttle and then apply throttle and I notice significant slack in the drive, as if there was play in the gear box, or some other culprit. If you go on off the throttle to exacerbate it it's as if there is an inch of take up slack somewhere before the power connects to the wheels. Engine mounts been replaced with OEM so it's not that, I checked the gear box rubber mount and that looks ok, not split or worn out. Clutch changes at 70k, it's not slipping and I certain it's not a clutch related issue. Selecting gears is not a problem. I'm fairly sure I've narrowed it down to inner CV joints, basically because I'm running out of things it could be, and this seems logical. Anyone else experienced this? I've been aware of this slack for probably the last 50k, so it's not just happened, can't say for sure its getting worse but it's the 1 giveaway my cold is old and done many miles. You can feel the slack in any gear, but it's when freeway cruising is most obvious. Cheers for any feedback anyone may have.
It looks like you haven't relaxed the transmission mount. It may not be cracked but it is most likely no as stiff anymore. I'd try that next since it is a cheap and easy fix.
Have a carrera s 2009 pdk , need to change transmission mount, please help, anyone
Take it to a mechanic. You should have some rainy day fund with a car like 911. I don't think it is a back yard job.
Help with what? Money? Go get a job.
And here I am struggling to change the taillights on mine 🤦🏽♂️ Did you take classes or something?
Nope, just watched and read other diys! I've been wrenching every now and then since I was 15 though.
Well, thanks to motivation from your videos, I finally managed to get it done ✅
I did my motor mounts today. Important lesson learned.
If you plan to do one mount at a time there is a pretty good chance the engine may shift being that now the jack and the mount on the opposite side are supporting the weight of the engine and maybe a slight amount of the weight of the car. Also, I set the jack up to favor the left side of the oil pan (drive side).
When I undid the 18 MM nut at the bottom of the driver side mount, the engine dropped about 2 inches and shot out the 18 MM nut. The bracket that receives the mount at the bottom shifted about two inches towards the rear of the car. In that state the mount would never line up to the bracket.
Trying to jack the engine up to get it line up made things worse.
Using a separate jack I supported the right side of the engine and removed the 18 MM nut at the bottom of the passenger side mount and then the two 13 MMW nuts at the top. I then used the jacks to lift the engine and get it line up with the holes and was able to insert the mounts. Torqued the the specs mentioned here and the exhaust line up to where it was previously. About and inch gap from the bumper.
If I had to do it over I would have supported the engine from the center (oil pan) distributing the weight with a board and then proceed to remove the fasteners on both sides. Trying to do one at a time did not work for me.
Having said that...your video still came in handy and gave me the confidence to tackle this job.
Thanks.
Interesting. I supported the engine at the center of the oil pan using a piece of wood to distribute the weight as you mentioned. The engine didn't shift and the install went smoothly. Good tip. Thanks for sharing!
I’m doing this now and noticed the engine carrier piece is coming down with the 18mm nut. I’m terrified it’ll do just that, drop the engine so low I won’t be able to line it up again on the long stud of the new mount. I’m supporting with a jack at the center of sump with a board. But I chickened out of loosening it all the way and will rethink this as a DIY for me.
@@rlippincott-zl6qp so long as you keep the engine supported at the center you should be fine. Do both mounts at the same time rather than one at a time.
Got it sorted. The old mounts were so much longer I had to jack the engine up a good 1” so that the new stud was exposed to accept the 18mm nut (997.1 model). Thanks for this video and the comments! Helped me a lot.
where did that rattle come from?
I believe it was from the passenger side door handle.
Great use of doggy pee pads for your parts 🤣
I thought my dog would use them but nope 😔
Excellent video and content
Thank you, hope you're subscribed!
Good knowledge to gain although I have no desire to change it to stiffer mount like yours. Thank you very much for your video. Your videos are always helpful. But a small criticism on your captions. Your captions are grammatically incorrect and made me confused. You said :"Only break loose the bolt when you're under the car". It just doesn't make sense. "Only" should have been put after "bolt" to make it correct and "do not remove it entirely" could've been added to make it clearer with either position with "Only". Now that I watched entire video, it makes sense either way but at the beginning, I had to pause and think about what you meant. Keep up the good work.
Thank you. Great videos. Exactly what I needed
how many miles were on your car when you changed the engine mounts?
72k miles