I’m gonna be honest here….. I only bought BCM hand guards and never look twice at Midwest gear. I bought a suppressor handguard and man I freaking love it. I think Midwest is the handguard for me. Solid piece of gear for sure
I think the ease of the barrel nut, with no need to time it is a huge part of why I'm going w this handguard instead of the Aero Precision ATLAS S One.
@@sigmax3432 Some barrel nuts (like the mil spec barrel nut) require the notches to line up (time) so the gas tube will be centered to the upper receiver..Not a problem if you know what you are doing..
Already been said but this why I like this channel, and you know here in south Louisiana we measure jobs by beers 🍻 that a let one start to get warm or 2 quick cold ones 👍💪🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Maybe it varies the type of the torque wrench? I was taught it is at a 90degree angle at least in a different industry. Going straight multiplies the setting.
Most consumer torque wrench settings are done straight. Actually turning to 90degrees applies greater leverage and will through off your torque settings. However not knowing your industry it could very well be different.
You're correct however that's gonna be more important for a D-ring type of barrel nut where you have to time the gas tube properly through the D-ring and upper receiver. This barrel nut doesn't seem to require the timing of the gas tube.
In follow up to this, I have been told that if you remove the barrel, you will have to headspace that barrel once reassembling. I have no idea if that’s true or false. Would appreciate you shedding some light on that
False, the headspace on an AR15 barrel is set via the barrel extension and is pinned to the barrel. As long as you retain the same bolt and barrel, the headspace will not change.
If your barrel is dimpled from the factory, tighten the rear gasblock screw first so that it aligns in the dimple. That is the hassle free way of doing it since the rear screw on the gas block is always centered to the gas hole on the gas block and the rear dimple on the barrel is always (assuming you are using quality parts) directly opposite of the gas port in the barrel.
Caleb's too cool for dimples. Dimpling not only makes it possible to line up a gas block without a bore scope but should be an industry standard if the gas lock doesn't come pinned.
Thanks to Everyone at Brownells, your videos share so much knowledge and teachings to your viewers. As well as all your Excellent Quality Products for sale. Ted Richardson Masonry Plus Florida. DeSantis Strong
I have a BCM upper receiver & A Midwest Industries quad rail. When installed the rail it wasn't straight. What I mean is when I put a straight edge at the top of the Picatinny receiver & rail there is a lil bit over 1/16" gap. It's not the receiver but the rail. The rail is not bent but when I install the screws to keep the rail fixed that when it's not straight. When I look down the receiver & rail it's not straight at all. I'm super disappointed. I tried everything. But I must be the way these rails are. Any help will be much appreciated. I will also contact Mid way to see what they say. To me that's to much & I can't expect that as a tolerance. Cheers!
They are nice and beefy, be prepared to add some weight, you must have the latest and the greatest but on mine (AR15) type there were no shims included so you must play around with the barrel nut torque to align the gas tube correctly. I was expecting not to have to deal with that but the nut does require to be indexed, bummer.
Question. Does the alignment of the torque wrench to the barrel nut wrench have any effect on the amount of torque delivered (ie inline vs 90 degree)? I have been told the torque wrench should be at a 90 degree angle to the barrel wrench. Another myth?
It does, but not nearly enough to matter, especially on something that has a wide torque range (30-85 ft/lbs). It also depends on the length of the adapter (the MI wrench) to the actual point of the torque wrench where it attaches. Technically you could measure the length of the teeth to the socket attachment to get the angle you should put it for a "true" torque value. So explaining further, for this job, we are talkin less than 5lbs of torque difference, it is completely insignificant because we are torqueing somewhere between the 30-85 ft/lbs range so it makes no difference if we have a "true" torque value of 45 or 50 ft/lbs.
It is not myth, it is science. If you want to know how much torque you are applying, then you use the 90 degree angle. Period. As Caleb writes, he went over the value to which he set the wrench. It didn’t make much difference at the low end with a short distance from the center of the nut to the center of the drive. Some wrenches have more distance there, and it could be disastrous to do what was shown here closer to the high end of the range.
Technically the torque wrench should be over the same axis as what you are torquing. But that's impossible, so I'm not sure that 90 or 180 degrees makes any difference
Actually no, measuring the distance from the wrench teeth to the torque mount point to determine the angle needed is completely unnecessary here. I am torqueing somewhere between 30-85ft/lbs, so it makes absolutely no difference if I torque it 45ft/lbs or 50ft/lbs. The difference in torque would be less than a 5 ft/lb difference regardless of the position the attachment is on the wrench. Also, 90 degrees does not magically give you the exact torque, you measure the distance from the torque point to the end of the attachment and do the math with the torque value to determine the angle, said angle is not always 90 degrees and that torque value is a very minor change when dealing with the lower numbers.
I have the same set up, but after some rounds down range, the handguard will slip forward. I loosen the screws on the bottom fit it back, tighten the screws, and again the handguard will slip forward. Any ideas?
I’m not sure about that specific handguard, but I had that happening with my older Adams Arms P2 16” .308 when using a bipod. They came out with a new generation after their bankruptcy called the AARS in which the handguard bolts directly into the barrel nut making it impossible to walk off. The AARS is much more comfortable without the clamping screws, looks way better and is lighter weight.
Any lock tite we put on the screws there will not stand the heat of the block once you start shooting. As far as torque goes, follow the mfg. recommendation but nice and snug is nice and snug in this case.
Just curious: I noticed that you did not Torque and then remove the barrel nut multiple times, is it not necessary to season the threads on the barrel nut?
That is only truly necessary if you are going to do the bare minimum to ensure you have as much thread contact as possible, when torqueing over the minimum (30 ft/lbs) the aluminum threads will form to the barrel nut threads. You will continue to hear that it is a "must" but those that do it do not really gain much by doing so. We tested this by taking a few uppers with standard steel barrel nuts and worked up the torque as well as the on/off thread count. The contact on the threads did not change between on that was torqued once at 40 ft/lbs and the one that was torques 3 to 5 times at the same.
Hm so if I have a slip ring that holds my handguard in place, it looks like this handguard is totally incompatible with my setup. How would I know if a handguard is compatible with the slip ring and corresponding ring of plastic toward the front of my barrel? I can easily take my handguard itself off for cleaning using the Delta Ring Tool. But if I want to upgrade my handguard entirely does the slip ring need to be adjusted or swapped out? Is there an AR-15 standard spec for this?
Yes, your setup is currently only compatible with what is considered a "Drop-In" handguard. Using this or similar that replaces the slip ring barrel nut to another barrel nut will convert it to a "free float" handguard in most cases, such as this one.
@@BiggumsMcHoney It's fun but it can get real expensive real fast. I'll tell you this: BUY QUALITY. Otherwise you're going to have a junk box like I do.
STNGR USA did it first. Am I the only guy scratching his head on how MIDWEST got this design from STNGR. I love my combat rail but the STNGR sold me on this barrel nut retention and I have both. Midwest is one of the best companies out there and again my combat rail is the best...but anyone else have a STNGR RAIL???
Do I still need to remove the barrel and barrel nut to replace the hand guard on an AR9 with a blow back system? Or can I simply remove the Allen screws and swap the hand guard out? Please help!
That is only truly necessary if you are going to do the bare minimum to ensure you have as much thread contact as possible, when torqueing over the minimum (30 ft/lbs) the aluminum threads will form to the barrel nut threads. You will continue to hear that it is a "must" but those that do it do not really gain much by doing so. We tested this by taking a few uppers with standard steel barrel nuts and worked up the torque as well as the on/off thread count. The contact on the threads did not change between on that was torqued once at 40 ft/lbs and the one that was torques 3 to 5 times at the same.
@@Jeff-dc2xl I'm not sure I understand the question. No BCG is required while doing this. The Device used an internal rod to lock the upper receiver to the actual vise block body.
Jeff, he's using a tool that inserts inside that upper receiver and you squeeze the vise on the tool rather than your receiver. You remove the bolt carrier and charging handle while you do this.
I stripped the crap out of one of the screws in the handguard, do I need another handguard now? Or will any screw relatively the same size work if I didn't mess up the threads in the handguard too bad? I'm soo frustrated, just bought the thing an am new to ARs an thought I needed to take off the guard to put on mlok mvg grip, then soon realized after I stripped the last screw I didn't. I have two side screws in place an its staying put although wiggles a bit but the bottom one is the one I stripped.
The gas port is pre drilled in the barrel, if your barrel is setup for a pistol length tube, that is all you will be able to use on it. If you are getting too much gas, you may want to look at adjustable gas blocks.
Buy green thread locker. It holds up and will be a piece of mind and it does work. You will will mess threads up with any kind of blue but the green is a great asset.
Removing the barrel/ hand guard has no effect on head space..Head space is done when the barrel extension is installed at the manufacturer..Always check head space if the barrel and or bolt is replaced/swithced..
A lot of it comes down to personal preference. Based on the video above, Caleb is installing a 16" barrel and using the handguard labeled: MIDWEST INDUSTRIES, INC. - AR-15 G4 HANDGUARDS M-LOK 100-052-045WB AR-15 G4 13.375" Handguard M-LOK Black You can go up to 15" (which is what I have) but it comes down to what you want out of the handguard. Personally, I would at least use one long enough to cover the gas block. It also looks like the 12.625", the 13. 375", and the 14" are in stock. The 15" and the 10.5" are not available right this second.
I would really love to build a upper...I build lowers. I've just heard so many bad things about gas blocks and guys building their own guns that becomes a horror story, for all you guys/gals that build is it really that hard? dont seem like it? i'm no gunsmith or professional mechanic but I can turn a wrench and swing a hammer. any opinions on whats the most important part would help..tools ? alignment ? or any tips
Come on Caleb! The torque wrench is supposed to be at 90 degrees to the wrench. Otherwise you are lengthening the arm and over torqueing. Also, no mention of lock tite or torque specs for the screws.
The difference in torque is less than 5ft/lbs, the torque range is between 30-80ft/lbs, so it makes absolutely no difference if I torque it at 40ft/lbs for 43ft/lbs. Also 90 degrees does not magically make the torque spot on, you need to measure the distance from the center of the attachment to the torque point to determine torque difference but as I previously stated, it makes absolutely no difference. As for the other screws, no lock tite is needed and snugging them up hand tight is perfectly sufficient as they compress the aluminum slightly and that "spring back" keeps them in place. You are vastly overthinking the operation, we could have done a super detailed installation but it would have been longer and unnecessarily confusing for the novice builder.
@@CalebSavant I prefer best practices especially when learning or teaching. And having been a novice builder I found the extra details to be very helpful. Those were the videos I sought out.
Actually no, measuring the distance from the wrench teeth to the torque mount point to determine the angle needed is completely unnecessary here. I am torqueing somewhere between 30-85ft/lbs, so it makes absolutely no difference if I torque it 45ft/lbs or 50ft/lbs. The difference in torque would be less than a 5 ft/lb difference regardless of the position the attachment is on the wrench.
@@hamschh Don't the handguards index on the upper, as shown in the video? Is it so loose it moves away from the upper and then rotates? Geoff Who is curious.
@@hamschh the gen 3s I have have a tight clamp to the upper, plus glue on the nut. This gen 4 looks like it replaces the clamp with a loose-fitting tab
@@hamschh any freefloat rail can rotate if you hit it hard enough the right way, even sr-15 urx4 that has an integral barrel nut isnt impervious to rotation. I haven't dropped this particular gun i have the midwest rail on but i do have a vertical grip on it that i can put my full strength into trying to get the rail to twist (youd be surprised how many rails fail this) and it doesnt move at all. I'm not saying it is as solid as the geissele but it is a solid setup and is very lightweight. Pros and cons to all, theres no free lunch. 👍
![АЛАУДИНОВ у Скабеевой: эти их ВСУ нас НЕ ДОГОНЯТ 😁 [Пародия]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/an0anqU4WGQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I’m gonna be honest here….. I only bought BCM hand guards and never look twice at Midwest gear. I bought a suppressor handguard and man I freaking love it. I think Midwest is the handguard for me. Solid piece of gear for sure
Seriously though. God bless y’all and all these videos you do.
Quick, Concise, and straight to the point!!
he didn't sip his coffee. i feel cheated
That is a special gesture that they save for Smyth Busters with Steve and his infamous Cat-stronaut coffee mug.
I have the Midwest Industries 15in combat Mlok rail. Very sturdy and durable.
Great, concise info and instruction. This channel is great. Keep up the good work.
I think the ease of the barrel nut, with no need to time it is a huge part of why I'm going w this handguard instead of the Aero Precision ATLAS S One.
What does time mean in regards to him changing the handguard. Seriously asking?
@@sigmax3432 Some barrel nuts (like the mil spec barrel nut) require the notches to line up (time) so the gas tube will be centered to the upper receiver..Not a problem if you know what you are doing..
Midwest makes good products, especially for the price.
Leave the rubber on the threaded muzzle so you don't bang a hand guard, steel barrel nut, or gas block, into the crown.
Midwest needs to improve the material of the wrench. One of my wrenches broke while torquing.
Already been said but this why I like this channel, and you know here in south Louisiana we measure jobs by beers 🍻 that a let one start to get warm or 2 quick cold ones 👍💪🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
I'll take it, laissez le bon temps rouler
Slickest hair on UA-cam! Awsome super nice guy and knows how to explain things so they are easily understood always.
Excellent video ... short and to the point.
Outstanding tutorial Caleb, oh and your hair looks really good today!!!
Thanks!
Maybe it varies the type of the torque wrench? I was taught it is at a 90degree angle at least in a different industry. Going straight multiplies the setting.
Most consumer torque wrench settings are done straight. Actually turning to 90degrees applies greater leverage and will through off your torque settings. However not knowing your industry it could very well be different.
Dapper Dan at it again.
Awesome video, just wish there was more quality parts available.
Thats a really nice upper jig.
What was that torque wrench Damn!!!
Just the info I was looking for. Great video with direct, simple and informative steps. Great Job. Thank you.
Didn't realize they're toqued wet - good to know. I always wondered why the specs seems so low as I was looking into building my first rifle
Awesome instructional video, you guys explain things so well 😀 👍
Used the Midwest drop in on an m14 type weapon.
Wooow love this channel I stopped my build cuz I didn’t know if that was the barrel nut or not
A Perfect instructional video. Thanks!
Good stuff. Always learn something!
Shouldn't the barrel nut be put on and off a couple times to season the threads?
Yep
You're correct however that's gonna be more important for a D-ring type of barrel nut where you have to time the gas tube properly through the D-ring and upper receiver. This barrel nut doesn't seem to require the timing of the gas tube.
Always perfect videos thank you
In follow up to this, I have been told that if you remove the barrel, you will have to headspace that barrel once reassembling. I have no idea if that’s true or false. Would appreciate you shedding some light on that
False, the headspace on an AR15 barrel is set via the barrel extension and is pinned to the barrel. As long as you retain the same bolt and barrel, the headspace will not change.
@@CalebSavant thanks
Simple and easy.
How do you know the gas block is properly aligned with the gas port?
If your barrel is dimpled from the factory, tighten the rear gasblock screw first so that it aligns in the dimple. That is the hassle free way of doing it since the rear screw on the gas block is always centered to the gas hole on the gas block and the rear dimple on the barrel is always (assuming you are using quality parts) directly opposite of the gas port in the barrel.
Caleb's too cool for dimples. Dimpling not only makes it possible to line up a gas block without a bore scope but should be an industry standard if the gas lock doesn't come pinned.
Primary Arms has the Gen4 10.5" on for $129.99 Mothers day sell. Picked up 1 but maybe should've went with the 12.5"
Thank you sir!
Great video! Short and to the point. Can you tell us which upper vise block you used in the video?
Thanks to Everyone at Brownells, your videos share so much knowledge and teachings to your viewers.
As well as all your Excellent Quality Products for sale.
Ted Richardson
Masonry Plus
Florida.
DeSantis Strong
I have a BCM upper receiver & A Midwest Industries quad rail. When installed the rail it wasn't straight. What I mean is when I put a straight edge at the top of the Picatinny receiver & rail there is a lil bit over 1/16" gap. It's not the receiver but the rail. The rail is not bent but when I install the screws to keep the rail fixed that when it's not straight. When I look down the receiver & rail it's not straight at all. I'm super disappointed. I tried everything. But I must be the way these rails are. Any help will be much appreciated. I will also contact Mid way to see what they say. To me that's to much & I can't expect that as a tolerance. Cheers!
As much as I love you and your channel, you should’ve told us torque specs for the hand guard screws
They are nice and beefy, be prepared to add some weight, you must have the latest and the greatest but on mine (AR15) type there were no shims included so you must play around with the barrel nut torque to align the gas tube correctly. I was expecting not to have to deal with that but the nut does require to be indexed, bummer.
Question. Does the alignment of the torque wrench to the barrel nut wrench have any effect on the amount of torque delivered (ie inline vs 90 degree)? I have been told the torque wrench should be at a 90 degree angle to the barrel wrench. Another myth?
It does, but not nearly enough to matter, especially on something that has a wide torque range (30-85 ft/lbs). It also depends on the length of the adapter (the MI wrench) to the actual point of the torque wrench where it attaches. Technically you could measure the length of the teeth to the socket attachment to get the angle you should put it for a "true" torque value. So explaining further, for this job, we are talkin less than 5lbs of torque difference, it is completely insignificant because we are torqueing somewhere between the 30-85 ft/lbs range so it makes no difference if we have a "true" torque value of 45 or 50 ft/lbs.
It is not myth, it is science. If you want to know how much torque you are applying, then you use the 90 degree angle. Period. As Caleb writes, he went over the value to which he set the wrench. It didn’t make much difference at the low end with a short distance from the center of the nut to the center of the drive. Some wrenches have more distance there, and it could be disastrous to do what was shown here closer to the high end of the range.
@@j.p.1576 Many thanks
Gawdamn i want to be like you casually having a bazooka on the right
You are awesome !
Thank you so much
What size length was that Midwest hand gaurd?
Which vise tool is he using to hold the upper?
Shouldn't your torque wrench be at 90 degrees of your barrel wrench?
Thanks
You want the wrench and barrel nut wrench to be a single plane.
The exact comment I was looking for. I've been taught to torque at a 90° angle to the barrel nut wrench
Technically the torque wrench should be over the same axis as what you are torquing. But that's impossible, so I'm not sure that 90 or 180 degrees makes any difference
It should.
Actually no, measuring the distance from the wrench teeth to the torque mount point to determine the angle needed is completely unnecessary here. I am torqueing somewhere between 30-85ft/lbs, so it makes absolutely no difference if I torque it 45ft/lbs or 50ft/lbs. The difference in torque would be less than a 5 ft/lb difference regardless of the position the attachment is on the wrench. Also, 90 degrees does not magically give you the exact torque, you measure the distance from the torque point to the end of the attachment and do the math with the torque value to determine the angle, said angle is not always 90 degrees and that torque value is a very minor change when dealing with the lower numbers.
Aren't you supposed to torque the barrel nut three times?
Please list the tools used in this video and their corresponding brownells catalog number!
Unfortunately we cannot due to UA-cam since they are firearm related.
does that lube change torque values or is 'wet torque' implied here?
When talking about AR15 barrel nuts, wet is assumed as you should always grease those threads.
Aaahhh wet torque, I knew a girl in high school like that...
The MI instructions say lube with aeroshell 33m/64 or similar and torque to 40 ft/lbs.
I have the same set up, but after some rounds down range, the handguard will slip forward. I loosen the screws on the bottom fit it back, tighten the screws, and again the handguard will slip forward. Any ideas?
I’m not sure about that specific handguard, but I had that happening with my older Adams Arms P2 16” .308 when using a bipod. They came out with a new generation after their bankruptcy called the AARS in which the handguard bolts directly into the barrel nut making it impossible to walk off. The AARS is much more comfortable without the clamping screws, looks way better and is lighter weight.
I am curious as to why not set the gas block screws to a specific torque setting or use a low/easy set break lock tight?
Any lock tite we put on the screws there will not stand the heat of the block once you start shooting. As far as torque goes, follow the mfg. recommendation but nice and snug is nice and snug in this case.
Brownells Wrenchman handguard in FDE when?!?!
Just curious: I noticed that you did not Torque and then remove the barrel nut multiple times, is it not necessary to season the threads on the barrel nut?
That is only truly necessary if you are going to do the bare minimum to ensure you have as much thread contact as possible, when torqueing over the minimum (30 ft/lbs) the aluminum threads will form to the barrel nut threads. You will continue to hear that it is a "must" but those that do it do not really gain much by doing so. We tested this by taking a few uppers with standard steel barrel nuts and worked up the torque as well as the on/off thread count. The contact on the threads did not change between on that was torqued once at 40 ft/lbs and the one that was torques 3 to 5 times at the same.
@@CalebSavant Awesome, Thanks for the feedback!
Hm so if I have a slip ring that holds my handguard in place, it looks like this handguard is totally incompatible with my setup. How would I know if a handguard is compatible with the slip ring and corresponding ring of plastic toward the front of my barrel? I can easily take my handguard itself off for cleaning using the Delta Ring Tool. But if I want to upgrade my handguard entirely does the slip ring need to be adjusted or swapped out? Is there an AR-15 standard spec for this?
Yes, your setup is currently only compatible with what is considered a "Drop-In" handguard. Using this or similar that replaces the slip ring barrel nut to another barrel nut will convert it to a "free float" handguard in most cases, such as this one.
All that stuff you have on there comes off and gets replaced with this kit and a low-profile gas block.
Thanks for the information! Just starting to get into customization.
@@BiggumsMcHoney It's fun but it can get real expensive real fast.
I'll tell you this: BUY QUALITY.
Otherwise you're going to have a junk box like I do.
STNGR USA did it first. Am I the only guy scratching his head on how MIDWEST got this design from STNGR. I love my combat rail but the STNGR sold me on this barrel nut retention and I have both. Midwest is one of the best companies out there and again my combat rail is the best...but anyone else have a STNGR RAIL???
Is there some kind of locking glue to really mate the handguard to the barrel nut?
Blue loctite, but doesn't work that well. Red loctite if you don't want to ever change it. It will be permanent with red
@@deraldo313 Midwest industries has glue for some of their hand guards. It's a bit weird. Luckily this one doesn't have it.
If I’m just replacing my PSA hand guard will that hand guard work on the existing barrel nut or will I have to disassemble everything?
Do I still need to remove the barrel and barrel nut to replace the hand guard on an AR9 with a blow back system? Or can I simply remove the Allen screws and swap the hand guard out? Please help!
Thankful it didn’t blow up
How do you remove a gen 2 handguard that was mounted with the green glue?
Green glue?? You mean green loctite and you just spread the hand guard a little where the tightening screws are to break the seal..
I noticed you did not tighten barrel nut and then loossen two to three times and then torque to 35 to 80 lbs. Is this not necessary.
That is only truly necessary if you are going to do the bare minimum to ensure you have as much thread contact as possible, when torqueing over the minimum (30 ft/lbs) the aluminum threads will form to the barrel nut threads. You will continue to hear that it is a "must" but those that do it do not really gain much by doing so. We tested this by taking a few uppers with standard steel barrel nuts and worked up the torque as well as the on/off thread count. The contact on the threads did not change between on that was torqued once at 40 ft/lbs and the one that was torques 3 to 5 times at the same.
@@CalebSavantThanks for clearing that up.
what torx size is the handrail screws
Great video
How can I fix a wobble hand guard?
If it's not chewed up or warped...clean everything up then use thread locker on the barrel nut/handguard interface. Tighten back up the two screws
What length barrel and handguard is this?
What bolt carrier is in the upper when your doing this process?
That is "The Device", an AR15 upper vise block.
Looks like "The Device Mfg" upper receiver fixture. Magpul Bev Block is much cheaper and can be used for upper and lower receiver
@@CalebSavant question why would you not just want to put your BCG back in and use that instead?
@@Jeff-dc2xl I'm not sure I understand the question. No BCG is required while doing this. The Device used an internal rod to lock the upper receiver to the actual vise block body.
Jeff, he's using a tool that inserts inside that upper receiver and you squeeze the vise on the tool rather than your receiver. You remove the bolt carrier and charging handle while you do this.
I stripped the crap out of one of the screws in the handguard, do I need another handguard now? Or will any screw relatively the same size work if I didn't mess up the threads in the handguard too bad? I'm soo frustrated, just bought the thing an am new to ARs an thought I needed to take off the guard to put on mlok mvg grip, then soon realized after I stripped the last screw I didn't. I have two side screws in place an its staying put although wiggles a bit but the bottom one is the one I stripped.
Do you wear protective gloves in the shop daily? Geoff Who notes this is fashionable some places, required by safety laws others.
Almost never
I bought some fancy nitrile gloves so I could be like the cool kids and I absolutely cannot stand to wear them.
Are you speaking of OSHA requirements for manufacture? Caleb is a gunsmith, not a union assembler.
Ha! The AT-4 in the safe
Curiosity. What is the barrel? Looks like a lightweight at least, maybe described as even a pencil.
I got a new pistol length gas tube and its for a 300blk supersonic 16" barrel can I change the gas tube for a longer one?
The gas port is pre drilled in the barrel, if your barrel is setup for a pistol length tube, that is all you will be able to use on it. If you are getting too much gas, you may want to look at adjustable gas blocks.
@@CalebSavant would a rifle length buffer affect the rifle's sycling if it has the pistol gas tube?
@@mobieus7 thank you
@@joel-in5cq rifle length buffers are for M16A1/A2 fixed stocks.
Nothing to do with gas system length.
Do you need to Loctite the hand guard screws?
No, you do not.
No. MI instructions say for the #2 Handguard Screws "Do Not Put Loctite On Screws" for the newer Gen4 Handguards.
Buy green thread locker. It holds up and will be a piece of mind and it does work. You will will mess threads up with any kind of blue but the green is a great asset.
No rock set or loctite on the barrel nut?
After installing barrel and rail how important is it to check headspace. Just grabbed a go n no go gauge, no field gauges were instock for 5.56.
Removing the barrel/ hand guard has no effect on head space..Head space is done when the barrel extension is installed at the manufacturer..Always check head space if the barrel and or bolt is replaced/swithced..
What size torque wrench? 3/8 , 1/2”???
Is that a Aero Precision upper receiver?
I have no idea what length I need for a 16" barrel, and the web site doesn't help. (They are out of stock anyway.)
A lot of it comes down to personal preference.
Based on the video above, Caleb is installing a 16" barrel and using the handguard labeled:
MIDWEST INDUSTRIES, INC. - AR-15 G4 HANDGUARDS M-LOK 100-052-045WB
AR-15 G4 13.375" Handguard M-LOK Black
You can go up to 15" (which is what I have) but it comes down to what you want out of the handguard. Personally, I would at least use one long enough to cover the gas block.
It also looks like the 12.625", the 13. 375", and the 14" are in stock. The 15" and the 10.5" are not available right this second.
I would be happy to help, how far is your gas block from the receiver? You want to ensure you have one that covers your gas tube at a minimum.
Is there a torque spec that the rail screws need to be tighten to?
10-32 x 1/2" cap screws, 40 in/lbs. That's inch pounds not foot pounds; it will be a different torque wrench!
Does this go for the combat t series quad rail?
Does Midwest no longer include the loctite that they used to have you use between their barrel nut and the handgaurd?
That is no longer needed.
Gen4 No Longer Need to Be glued
What upper receiver block is used here?
"The Device"
Anyone got links to good torque wrenches? Foot lbs and inch lbs?
I would really love to build a upper...I build lowers. I've just heard so many bad things about gas blocks and guys building their own guns that becomes a horror story, for all you guys/gals that build is it really that hard? dont seem like it? i'm no gunsmith or professional mechanic but I can turn a wrench and swing a hammer. any opinions on whats the most important part would help..tools ? alignment ? or any tips
It's really not that difficult. Just need more tools. If barrel is dimpled gas block very easy if not slr makes a good dumpling jig.
What vice block is that?
its that easy to make an upper?
What are the screw size that tighten hanguard on the barrel nut?
35 to 85 ft lbs. That’s a hell of a range! Lol! Need to have a more precise number than that.
Depends on the barrel nut and manufacturers instructions..Mil spec is 35 to 80 ft lbs..
Midwest has good stuff, no?
Great stuff!
@@CalebSavant 13" free float mlok.
Perfect fit is an understatement
90 degrees my guy 90 degrees no different than a crows foot.
Come on Caleb! The torque wrench is supposed to be at 90 degrees to the wrench. Otherwise you are lengthening the arm and over torqueing. Also, no mention of lock tite or torque specs for the screws.
The difference in torque is less than 5ft/lbs, the torque range is between 30-80ft/lbs, so it makes absolutely no difference if I torque it at 40ft/lbs for 43ft/lbs. Also 90 degrees does not magically make the torque spot on, you need to measure the distance from the center of the attachment to the torque point to determine torque difference but as I previously stated, it makes absolutely no difference. As for the other screws, no lock tite is needed and snugging them up hand tight is perfectly sufficient as they compress the aluminum slightly and that "spring back" keeps them in place. You are vastly overthinking the operation, we could have done a super detailed installation but it would have been longer and unnecessarily confusing for the novice builder.
@@CalebSavant I prefer best practices especially when learning or teaching. And having been a novice builder I found the extra details to be very helpful. Those were the videos I sought out.
Improper use of the torque wrench in this case.
Actually no, measuring the distance from the wrench teeth to the torque mount point to determine the angle needed is completely unnecessary here. I am torqueing somewhere between 30-85ft/lbs, so it makes absolutely no difference if I torque it 45ft/lbs or 50ft/lbs. The difference in torque would be less than a 5 ft/lb difference regardless of the position the attachment is on the wrench.
@@CalebSavant why bothering worrying about torque if you can’t be bothered to measure it properly?
@@ThoraniosX To ensure we are over the minimum 30 ft/lbs, and for the record... it was measured properly for the application. Thanks for watching!
What is that attachment you used to hold the upper receiver?
No loctite? I've lost too many screws 😅
New gen midwest handguards don't require glue between barrel nut and handguard?
@@hamschh Don't the handguards index on the upper, as shown in the video? Is it so loose it moves away from the upper and then rotates? Geoff Who is curious.
@@hamschh tighten the set bolts more or check your torque on your barrel nut then, mine is solid as a rock.
They do not, they now use anti-rotation tabs so rotation is no longer an issue or possibility.
@@hamschh the gen 3s I have have a tight clamp to the upper, plus glue on the nut. This gen 4 looks like it replaces the clamp with a loose-fitting tab
@@hamschh any freefloat rail can rotate if you hit it hard enough the right way, even sr-15 urx4 that has an integral barrel nut isnt impervious to rotation. I haven't dropped this particular gun i have the midwest rail on but i do have a vertical grip on it that i can put my full strength into trying to get the rail to twist (youd be surprised how many rails fail this) and it doesnt move at all. I'm not saying it is as solid as the geissele but it is a solid setup and is very lightweight. Pros and cons to all, theres no free lunch. 👍