How to Repairs Cracks in a Solid Plaster Wall Richmond
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- Опубліковано 8 вер 2024
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Using fine white sand mixed with plaster for the render as to Australian standards.
Finishing off with CSR Cornice Cement for the white set coat as this will stick to the paint and allow to feather the patch slightly on to the paintwork.
Hi it is water we would be splashing into the cracks filling in electrical wire chases is just the same as filling in cracks, I use CSR Stopping plaster mixed with triple wash sand for the base mortar then I trowel it off with CSR Cornice Cement all the best Neil
Could you do a video on repair chases? Also is this bonding you are putting in the cracks and then a finishing layer of plaster?
Hello Neil. I noticed that most of the cracks around the perimeter of the window striate from the corners of the window possibly from window settling/movement. In Southern California (earthquake country) we try to reinforce around non wood framed windows before finish. Any thoughts on finishing non-reinforced masonry units. Thanks
Daniel Dominguez, CSS, CET Hi Daniel, yes doors, windows and openings are the weak part of a house. We do not strengthen around the windows of old buildings here, if we did it may just as likely move and crack in another area of the building. We just use a softer mix of sand and plaster to match up the soft lime mortar that is used on the old buildings so they can be maintained as easily as is possible in the future.
A lot of the cracking may be due to blocked water drains and spouting's making under the house wet.
The yellow clay here in Melbourne swells up, lifting the building when it gets wet and shrinks back dropping the building down again as it dries out causing cracking.
I am not sure how to reinforce windows and doorways easily.
You could use wire reinforcement (expanded metal) in the render, but then that section is much stronger than the rest of the house and it is likely to continually crack, where the strengthened section meets the soft lime mortar section.
Some old houses here have a formed concrete lintel above the windows, but I have not seen any method that helps to significantly strengthen these areas around windows and doors.
Thanks for your ideas all the best Neil
I have exactly the same job to do in an old 1920’s federation house in Sydney, but I can’t find the right plaster products to use.
Can you please give me a list of the plaster products you used for your project, and the mixes quantities/ratios etc.
Cheers
Glen
Hi sorry i am a while getting back I use fine white wash sand and CSR Stopping Plaster mixed together for the render.
But the Stopping Plaster is not still made you can try CSR Masonry Adhesive in it's place.
About 60% Sand 40% Plaster.
The white set top coat I use CSR Cornice Cement for that to trowel off with.
If you like you can also use a sand-able finishing coat on that as well but a thin skim.
Like Boral Topcote 550
Good Luck
Are those cracks produced by settlement (new building) or they continue moving? I recently bought a 35 year old house and similar ones re-appeard after the old owners covered them using domestic plaster like the one you remove on minute 4:59 so mines continue moving. Could you advise if it's OK if I use tape + fiber glass plaster or I have to go for a major repair like the video. Thanks!
Hi Toro that particular building was moving all the time it was unstable. Can be the ground excess water in the clay.
Not much good using tape it is best to open them up and fill them.
Good idea to check all your down-pipes are taking water away from your house and not blocked.
If it is plasterboard you can use tape but not on solid plaster.
All the best with it Neil.
Hei Neil
Yeah, you are right. Recently I discovered exactly what you said, a leak on the down-pipes so straight away I disabled the old main iron pipe and I ran a brand new polyethylene one. Let's hope this is the root cause, if so, do you think that worth waiting for the clay to get dry before repairs? Based upon the company counter the leak was quite importat so I assume I'll have to wait untill the end of next summer to have the clay totally dry. The house is in Spain but sometimes we have quite wet winters.
I really appreciate your time.
Thanks Toro you are welcome most of the time I think it is water under the foundations it is good to let the clay dry I am not sure if that takes a long time though I would give it a month all the best Neil
Hi Toro good you got onto the problem, I think that will fix it good luck Neil
Hi Neil, CSR don't sell stopping plaster in SA. Would a 1:5 cornice cement and sand mix work the same? or just a weak grey cement and sand mix?
Also I notice you don't add any lime to the mortar mix - is it a good idea to add some hydrated lime to the mix?
yes that is that is right datablend they do not sell it there you can use CSR Masonry Adhesive which I have found works well gives you more time too it is not necessary to use any lime in the mix it works well without all the best Neil
Hi datablend you can use CSR Cornice Adhesive or Masonry Adhesive to mix with the triple was white 40% plaster 60% sand will work fine those are the mixes, the plaster I use have enough good additives in them without a need for lime, all the best Neil
Hi Neil,
How thick is your final cornice cement coat?
Do you finish the new render slightly lower that the existing plaster for it to end up flush?
Cheers
Matt
Hi Matt, just saw your message sorry so long, I try to make the render a couple millimeters or so lower than the existing plaster then I float the plaster on just feathering onto the paint.
It will finish up reasonably flat maybe not 100% but i find it best to feather over onto the paintwork a little, rather than finishing the new work exactly to the edges of the section I have opened up.
The reason being it is too easy to see where it joins unless it is feathered.
All the best Neil
hay que poner varillas de hierro de 10 mm en forma horizontal en forma de llave asi trabaja con la parte sana de la pared lo que hizo es tapar el problema no arreglo la grietas
Sí, tienes razón, te ayudará.
Creo que el terreno era inestable o había problemas con los fouindations.
El hombre ha vendido el buildinding ahora sabía que tenía problemas.
Gracias y todo lo mejor Neil
ser albañil el primer oficio del hombre con tus manos haces milagros mucho y buen trabajo para ti compañero
Si usted inserta las varillas en el ladrillo cortando el ladrillo, ayudará a asegurar el piso superior, que será un beneficio.
A continuación, pondrá más estrés en otras partes de la pared.
En la planta baja, con todo el peso sobre, todavía habrá movimiento.
Normalmente, si la persona quiere ir a esa medida de tener su edificio fijo que tendrá apoyo en los cimientos.
Gracias por tu aportación.
refuerce los cimientos hay muchas formas de hacerlo las grietas son muy peligrosas
Sí hay muchas maneras de arreglar el problema, dependiendo de cuánto el cliente quiere gastar también.
Normalmente, la gente subyace a las bases aquí en Australia.
A veces una malla de acero se utiliza en un área también.
No he oído hablar de las barras de hierro de 10 mm que usted ha mencionado que se puso en antes.
Gracias por compartir esa idea.
La mayoría de los edificios antiguos aquí el render es mortero de cal, yo uso fina arena blanca para que coincida con el mortero de cal que hace que sea más fácil de reparar si se agrieta de nuevo.
He visto trabajo de reparación de crack, alrededor de una mezcla más difícil, que se puso en una pared de mortero de cal.
Trato de abrir las grietas en el ladrillo también para firmar los ladrillos de nuevo.
Gracias y todo lo mejor Neil
We can't use cement?
+Galab Bista yes you can but try to match the strength of the mix to what is on the wall.
It is better to use fine white sand and plaster, if you are matching up to a lime mortar wall.
All the best Neil
Ever heard of caullking?
Yes, but we are fixing cracks that need opening up and filled with render, caulking is more of a handman way to fix cracks
Gh