I believe any model, no matter the scale, or category, can benefit from spark plug wires. If the hood is opened, or removed, and the engine is revealed, seeing the plug wires adds so much more realism to the model.
Thanks for your comment. All the parts that are not included in the kit are made by myself or substituted with what I have around me. I rarely use aftermarket parts. It is my policy to spend a lot of time and effort but not a lot of money.
Thanks for your comment! The netting I use is brass netting. 1/ Drill a hole in a wooden board the same size as the diameter of the funnel. 2/ Cut a small piece of brass netting and place it over the hole. 3/ Push in the rounded tip. I remember using a pen cap here. Various shapes can be made by adjusting the force with which you push in. 4/Cut and glue carefully. Glue as little as possible so it will not be noticeable.
Thank you for your comment. You are correct, the bolts are aftermarket. They are made of resin. They are not cheap and are only used on the visible parts.
Thank you for your comment. The injection follows the instructions in the kit's assembly manual. However, the shape seems to be different, so I modified it drastically.
Thank you for your comment. The clear is made of lacquer. 1_paint white 2_Apply the decals 3_Apply the first coat of clear Keep a large distance between the parts and the hand piece. This is to avoid melting the decals. 4_Apply the second coat of clear. Apply a generous amount. 5_After applying 4 coats, polish it. I'm sorry for my poor explanation.
Great video as always! I have few question on the black wash you used to make the engine dirty: - How much time you waited before removing the exceeding black wash? - To remove the unwanted wash did you used a thinner? - Did you use an enamel black wash over acrylic paint? - What's the name of the tool you used for remove the exceeding black wash? Thanks in advance for any help!
Thanks for your comments. The engine is lacquer-based and acrylic-based. The black paint for the dirty expression is enamel-based. TAMIYA Item No:80001 The solvent to wipe off is TAMIYA Item No:80040 I learn this kind of work by watching AFV works. I apologize for my poor explanation.
@@12percent_on_the_desk Thank you for your quick answer! I have the identical colours and setup as yours, so everything should be fine. I'm just worried about how much time I have to wait to use the solvent to wipe off the black paint, I think I have to do some tests. Thanks again, you are super talented and also very kind!
Thank you for your comment. It's the color of magnesium, right? Add khaki green to yellow to make it a little duller. I add a little bit of silver to it as I go along to get the color I like.
![Make a mission and rear suspension [Make Ferrari 312T thoroughly] TAMIYA 1/12](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/9diEysElMW0/mqdefault.jpg)
![Make a mission and rear suspension [Make Ferrari 312T thoroughly] TAMIYA 1/12](/img/tr.png)
I believe any model, no matter the scale, or category, can benefit from spark plug wires. If the hood is opened, or removed, and the engine is revealed, seeing the plug wires adds so much more realism to the model.
Masterful. You’ve gone from craftsman to artisan. Thank you for demonstrating.
Wow! Amazing!
Beautiful workmanship
Best build I have ever seen, congrats.
Thank you very much.
It is very encouraging.
Amazing work, a real Ninja this model builder is👍
Thank you very much.
The wireing is one of the hardest things
Fantastic work mate! Keep it up 😀
Thank you very much.
My technique is improving a little bit.
I hope you will watch the new video.
I,m doing the 312 T3 by Protar,very difficult model and nowhere near your level,but I,m having Frustrating fun doing it
DDDAAAMMMNNN !!! This NICE NICE NICE!!! Thank you for this video!!
Thank you for your comment.
I'm glad to hear it.
great work, quick question, where do you find the resin and photoetched detail parts for engine detailing. Kind regards
Thanks for your comment. All the parts that are not included in the kit are made by myself or substituted with what I have around me. I rarely use aftermarket parts. It is my policy to spend a lot of time and effort but not a lot of money.
Purely art!
Unbelievable work. You are a true master. I have a question for you. How did you form the injector funnel screens? They’re beautiful.
Thanks for your comment!
The netting I use is brass netting.
1/ Drill a hole in a wooden board the same size as the diameter of the funnel.
2/ Cut a small piece of brass netting and place it over the hole.
3/ Push in the rounded tip.
I remember using a pen cap here.
Various shapes can be made by adjusting the force with which you push in.
4/Cut and glue carefully. Glue as little as possible so it will not be noticeable.
Thanks so much. I’ll try this!
Wow incredible
well done for hitting 100 subscribers
Thank you!!!!!
the thing at 11:00 is the lifting point to put the lifting chain on to remove the engine
Thanks for the advice. You are so detailed.
Can not wait for the next video.
Thanks for your comments.
The plan is to post it in 24 hours.
Museum piece. Where do you get the scale bolts? Are they aftermarket?
Thank you for your comment.
You are correct, the bolts are aftermarket.
They are made of resin. They are not cheap and are only used on the visible parts.
How did the fittings for the injectors be made?
Thank you for your comment.
The injection follows the instructions in the kit's assembly manual.
However, the shape seems to be different, so I modified it drastically.
Incredible work, awesome.
What material do you use for the grills in the air intakes? Thanks
Thanks for your comments.
Do you mean the injection mesh?
This is brass netting.
I hope to eventually shoot a video of it being made.
What type of clear coat was used on the oil filter? Many light coats or is it safe for decals?
Thank you for your comment.
The clear is made of lacquer.
1_paint white
2_Apply the decals
3_Apply the first coat of clear
Keep a large distance between the parts and the hand piece.
This is to avoid melting the decals.
4_Apply the second coat of clear. Apply a generous amount.
5_After applying 4 coats, polish it.
I'm sorry for my poor explanation.
Your explanation is fine.
I use that technique when I airbrush TS-13.
Great video as always!
I have few question on the black wash you used to make the engine dirty:
- How much time you waited before removing the exceeding black wash?
- To remove the unwanted wash did you used a thinner?
- Did you use an enamel black wash over acrylic paint?
- What's the name of the tool you used for remove the exceeding black wash?
Thanks in advance for any help!
Thanks for your comments.
The engine is lacquer-based and acrylic-based.
The black paint for the dirty expression is enamel-based.
TAMIYA Item No:80001
The solvent to wipe off is TAMIYA Item No:80040
I learn this kind of work by watching AFV works.
I apologize for my poor explanation.
@@12percent_on_the_desk Thank you for your quick answer!
I have the identical colours and setup as yours, so everything should be fine. I'm just worried about how much time I have to wait to use the solvent to wipe off the black paint, I think I have to do some tests.
Thanks again, you are super talented and also very kind!
@@manoomanu8443 You're welcome.
How !
Masterpiece...
Hi mate, quick question, how did you make the yellowy go.d colour on the engine?
Sorry yellowy gold
Thank you for your comment.
It's the color of magnesium, right?
Add khaki green to yellow to make it a little duller.
I add a little bit of silver to it as I go along to get the color I like.
Sugoi!
arigatou