Thanks for posting this. I just watched an AutoDoc video where they made it look far easier…your vision of reality is probably closer to how it’s gonna go down…plus an extra hour and a shed load of swearing. Wish me luck as I’ve basic knowledge and basic tools and no bench vice and creaky knees.
You will get it done. The autodoc videos are good for process but when they take it apart it is already covered in copper grease. The real skill in being a diy mechanic is getting the old bits apart.
@@bootsowen I got it done. Easier than expected. Drop link bolt damaged but a little assistance from those that can do it in 5 mins saved the day..swearing was obligatory but I’m chuffed I did it. Thanks for the encouragement
If you are ever struggling to remove bushings mate especially subframe ones,, use a piece of threaded bar and washers to create a puller. Failing that drill all around the rubber and remove the centre tube then pry them out
Came back to watch this because i couldn't remember how you got the tie bar back on the anti roll. But thats exactly how i was trying :D I got the new bushings with a new tie bar so could skip the step where you had to fit them to the tie bar. right. Back to the hammer and wood.
For anyone who gets a bit stuck with the bushing on the sway bar. We managed to remove the old one with two people and a crowbar, we didn't have a puller but with an elaborate setup and a bit of banging we managed to do it. However using the technique in the video we found it very difficult to fit the new one, we managed one side after around 15 mins of wrestling and banging but on the other side we gave up after 20 mins of hammering with big hammers and a big piece of wood. I then simply took a 5ft miners bar and found a great fulcrum point somewhere behind the hub i think (can't remember exactly now but you will find it. Then i asked my friend to hold everything in place while i tried to lever the bushing back on, it slid straight on easily. We didn't have silicone grease so we used olive oil. I have a small question if anyone can answer it. I see here that we should not use normal grease when in contact with rubber parts however i realised my mistake the other day when adding extra grease as i was installing new upper ball joints, i removed the seal and filled them up with cv / bearing (graphite?) grease. Then i thought, oh shit, i shouldn't have done that, i should have used silicone. But i already had it fitted. I found a small sachet of silicone for the other side. But then i thought, what about CV boots? They are rubber and thats the grease they use. So is it ok to use cv grease with rubber parts after all?
Hi there. I haven’t worked on a t5. I think they could be completely different. The 5 series of golf, transporters etc were a complete change to the t4 series. Still, I don’t think it would be any more difficult. Good luck!
@@bootsowengreat explanation and practical advice, at least now I have some idea of what I'm letting myself in for, appreciate the work & the video buddy, there have been times when I've felt 'defeated' but carried on and learnt a few good hacks 🤭 cheers
Hi there, thanks a lot for the video. Any alternative idea to get the short bar off whithout using pullers? What kind of pullers are these? Also, could you have replace the suspension arms bush as well?
Hi. The suspension arm bush can be replaced at the same time. But it didn’t need it according to the test mechanic. I have made a video of the procedure in another of my recent videos. As for pulling the short bar off...any lever would do. Or hammer it with a pull hammer. I used flywheel pullers I think.
Probably. I usually ask the mot tester to show me the problem on the ramp so I know exactly what I have to fix. They are usually pretty sound. Best to ask them.
![How to change front shock absorber on VW TRANSPORTER 4 (T4) [TUTORIAL AUTODOC]](/img/n.gif)
Thanks for posting this. I just watched an AutoDoc video where they made it look far easier…your vision of reality is probably closer to how it’s gonna go down…plus an extra hour and a shed load of swearing. Wish me luck as I’ve basic knowledge and basic tools and no bench vice and creaky knees.
You will get it done. The autodoc videos are good for process but when they take it apart it is already covered in copper grease. The real skill in being a diy mechanic is getting the old bits apart.
@@bootsowen I got it done. Easier than expected. Drop link bolt damaged but a little assistance from those that can do it in 5 mins saved the day..swearing was obligatory but I’m chuffed I did it. Thanks for the encouragement
Got this job to do in the next few days. Thanks for all your videos. Very helpful 🤙🏻
Good luck!
If you are ever struggling to remove bushings mate especially subframe ones,, use a piece of threaded bar and washers to create a puller. Failing that drill all around the rubber and remove the centre tube then pry them out
Came back to watch this because i couldn't remember how you got the tie bar back on the anti roll. But thats exactly how i was trying :D I got the new bushings with a new tie bar so could skip the step where you had to fit them to the tie bar.
right. Back to the hammer and wood.
For anyone who gets a bit stuck with the bushing on the sway bar. We managed to remove the old one with two people and a crowbar, we didn't have a puller but with an elaborate setup and a bit of banging we managed to do it. However using the technique in the video we found it very difficult to fit the new one, we managed one side after around 15 mins of wrestling and banging but on the other side we gave up after 20 mins of hammering with big hammers and a big piece of wood. I then simply took a 5ft miners bar and found a great fulcrum point somewhere behind the hub i think (can't remember exactly now but you will find it. Then i asked my friend to hold everything in place while i tried to lever the bushing back on, it slid straight on easily. We didn't have silicone grease so we used olive oil.
I have a small question if anyone can answer it. I see here that we should not use normal grease when in contact with rubber parts however i realised my mistake the other day when adding extra grease as i was installing new upper ball joints, i removed the seal and filled them up with cv / bearing (graphite?) grease. Then i thought, oh shit, i shouldn't have done that, i should have used silicone. But i already had it fitted. I found a small sachet of silicone for the other side. But then i thought, what about CV boots? They are rubber and thats the grease they use. So is it ok to use cv grease with rubber parts after all?
Cut with grinder and comes off very easy.
Great vlog and thanks for sharing!
Thanks bro! Work it's easy
Thank you for taking your time for this
If you drill the end of the roll bar a little it would stop your puller sliding off.
That is an idea that I will use, as you might guess I am more of a have a go mechanic than a qualified one, so thanks for the tip!
Also cutting the lip off bushes like these can make it much easier to remove them.
Great video bro, thanks.
No problem 👍
Thanks for that! I've a vxT5 and I'm guessing it's the same setup? I need to change the bushes too. Thanks again for the clear video!
Hi there. I haven’t worked on a t5. I think they could be completely different. The 5 series of golf, transporters etc were a complete change to the t4 series. Still, I don’t think it would be any more difficult. Good luck!
I gave up trying to get new ones on… tried everything.
Just left them off👍.
If your thinking of doing this - dont , just pay a garage
Good attitude. Nothing like learning.
@@bootsowengreat explanation and practical advice, at least now I have some idea of what I'm letting myself in for, appreciate the work & the video buddy, there have been times when I've felt 'defeated' but carried on and learnt a few good hacks 🤭 cheers
Those rubbers were perfectly good man
Ali Hosseini I agree Ali. I think they wrote the wrong thing on the advisory.
Hi there, thanks a lot for the video. Any alternative idea to get the short bar off whithout using pullers? What kind of pullers are these? Also, could you have replace the suspension arms bush as well?
Hi. The suspension arm bush can be replaced at the same time. But it didn’t need it according to the test mechanic. I have made a video of the procedure in another of my recent videos. As for pulling the short bar off...any lever would do. Or hammer it with a pull hammer. I used flywheel pullers I think.
A great help to me thanks Bootsowen !
That's what it's all about, let me know if you have any tips on getting the old bushings off.
Great video, inspired, I have an occasional knocking which I suspect is the anti-roll bar, hoping it's nothing more.
It's a two hour job, when you've never done it before. Give it a go, the parts were about £12 delivered, so no excuse not to!
Хорошая работа.
Nice job 👍🏻
New bushings should be mounted dry! Other way they can fall off in future :)The best way is to use bar clamp
Thanks for the tips.
bootsowen
Or use liquid soap as a lubricant.
And this is my next job. Thanks for the guide mate. Where did you get the bushes?
Ebay is where I usually go for car parts. I reckon Topran or Febi are good. But I'm not fussy and will often go for the cheapest.
Nice one, thanks.
I just had an MOT and it was on advisory "Anti-roll bar has slight play in a pin/bush" . Is this what i have to do to fix this? Thanks
Probably. I usually ask the mot tester to show me the problem on the ramp so I know exactly what I have to fix. They are usually pretty sound. Best to ask them.
👍
Goodo ..and remember ..theres always time for lubracation ..😁pip pips
У меня сука заварено, хотел поменять внутреннию резинку на стабилизаторе
🙄
🙄