the author does like to from scratch, shaping and trimming wood from large blocks into fine finished products. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxD-QRFQz730FJEh4f9BYSf-nkIMIC9hL_ as another reviewer mentioned, most projects require a lot of high-dollar equipment that most of us dont have the room or budget for. But, knowing how to do these things, even if we wont be able to practice the full stack project, is still great.
So - leaving a comment 4 years after the post was made😂 Great video, great tutorial, great information! Been a carpenter and builder for 3o odd years. A co-worker recently recommended Rubio '2c' for a 'coffe river table' finish, topping of with their finishing oil. So, visited a demonstration in Malmö (southern Sweden). While being well informed there by a great salesman, your input is as great as it comes! Having used a lot of different products over the years (incl 'danish oil'), I am totally convinced of Rubio being a superior product. Thanks, a great video. Merry Christmas 2023 😊❤
Thank you for the video, really good demonstration and interesting, this is not a troll . On the first application the Rubio didn't absorb once applied due to the molecular structure. Serious Question 😃 why / how did it absorb the second coat ? Nevertheless I will be using this method soon . Many thanks Dai
No, it did absorb more into those areas. It still absorbs into the wood. It just bonds with the fibers. Certain areas it will absorb more especially on walnut
thank you . question please first i know very little on finishes i general sand to 220 because it feels smoother to me and 320 inbetween coats ? soo ?? have i been messing up ??
Not at all. Most finishes I do the same. Rubio is just a different finish. It bonds to the fibers. The higher you go, the less fibers it has to bond with.
I always thought the squeegee was the only way. Nice to learn a better way. Can you post a link to the buffing block and handle, please? I'm having hard time finding them. Thanks!
Great videos especially about the Rubio Monocoat application. Just about to do my first Monocoat 2C Plus Pure finish on a walnut bath caddy/tray with Ecopoxy FlowCast SPR. Quick newbie question…I have the white 3M pad as well as the maroon 3M pad. Is the 3M white pad similar (but thinner) to the white application pad that you used to apply the Rubio? And is the 3M maroon pad similar to the one that you used. Thank you again for your excellent videos…I’m continuing to learn every day
Straight to the point. You are an excellent teacher. When I saw this was a 16 min video I initially cringed thinking 12 minutes would be anecdotal stories and 4 minutes of useful intel. But this was time well spent and it seems others below have also noted your strength in this. So I wanted to compliment you and say Thank You!😁
I am making a dinning room set for my son in white oak and he wants the oak to to have little color change and to be as light in color as possible would rubio work and which one? Great presentation and I am a new subscriber.
This is the best 15 or so minutes I've spent on YT in a while! Thanks for the well organized and clearly presented information. You've already answered so many of my questions! I am planning to use RM to seal my walnut island top, which is not yet installed. Quick question- if I apply to the bottom of my island first, do I need to wait any length of time before I can flip it over and apply to the top and sides? Thanks in advance :)
Nope! I would do the bottom, wipe it down, then flip it and do the top. Only thing I would do is put it on some painters triangles for about 24 hours so the underside dries. 👍
Im just now myself learning about the Rubio system and cant wait to try it. Thanks for all the helpful application and other useful tips. One Question is the small table top I am going to be working on has a large crack that I plan on doing a Resin pour on. Should I do that first before I apply the Rubio to the rest of the table?
I am doing an Oak table and the grain does not seem to be filling in. I am concern that if something spills it will seep into the grain. what should I do? I also have the rubio maintenance that I will be putting on it after it dries for 36 hours.
When applying the second coat, could I use 120 grit sandpape(lightly pressed) instead of the maroon pad. My local hardware stores do not supply the circular pad that you use.
Great video and very in-depth. I was looking for something for a cherry coffee table that I’m building and I think this might be just the ticket! Thanks again and keep up the good work!
Scrubber pad “I like to use THIS” ? “This’? Please clarify. Just spent half hour circling in Home Depot looking for it. No link in your description. Would have bought through you.
Just tested my first batch of the Rubio and I’m way more pumped on the color saturation and feel than I was expecting. Going to let it cure for a week and see bit I think this will be a great finish for our mid century kitchen cabinet rehab. Thanks for the clear instructions. Straight to the point.
I love your videos, however, the sound seems far lower volume from most others. I have full volume and still a bit difficult if there is any background noise at all. Keep up your good work and videos.
If you want more shine and less flate looking areas, use Howards UV furniture oil over the rubio. 2 coats of rubio didnt do the trick, but howards did. It looks real shiney at first but cures more satin, but shinier than rubio.
Thanks for such nice detailed instruction, very useful for first users like myself. A question remained: the cans say you should stir before use. You stir after mixing the 2 components, but I don't see you stir the original can content. Would you recommend to stir each component first, before using the syringe to extract?
I see that you do not recommend lighting sanding after water popping. The Wood Whisperer's video on Rubio Monocoat application adds in this additional step (light sanding at the same grit which was "water popped") after water popping. I fail to see how sanding _after_ water popping for Rubio is a good idea, since you'd be closing those pores that you just "popped" open, again but, I trust the wood whisperer's advice, usually. Do you have any insight into this discrepancy? Have you ever lightly sanded after water popping? Thank you for making these videos.
The point of water popping is because you need to open the pores up to allow better bonding when sanding to grits higher that the 120 which Rubio recommends. If you sand lightly after water popping, then it may give you less bonding abilities. Now, will all that being said, water popping isn’t a necessity from my experience. Also, I know plenty of people that sand to higher grits and still use it without issues. Just test it out on a small piece before starting your project and do what you find works best for you.
Best video I have found to date! I have two questions...if you don't mind...How many square feet does the 350ml cover? And if I choose to do a second coat, do I need to use the accelerator with it? Thanks again for the great video...cannot wait to get this stuff and start on my butcher block...!
Great video, thank you! 1. What sanding grit should I use for a desk table top made from baltic birch plywood? It's already sanded at the factory but I don't know to what grit they sanded it. 2. I understand that water popping a 150-grit-sanded-wood opens the pores to have a better molecular bond and hence make the surface more durable, but could you please explain what happens to the smoothness of the wood after water popping? Will you get as smooth a result after applying the Rubio as without water popping? In other words, are durability and smoothness opposite tradeoffs, or is the surface both durable and smooth?
We are going to build an island countertop and are thinking of using walnut. The countertop will be approx. 110" X 54". Do you recommend using this on an island that will get heavy use and what about setting hot items on it? How much of the Rubio do you think we will need for that size?
Hi there! Great video, do you know what the name of the white applicator pad is called? Can I buy at home depot? I already have the 2C rubio mono, but just need the white pad (don't want to use plastic spreader). Thanks!
I've used your methods on a few projects and it worked great! On my latest project I tried your sand to 150 then water pop method and it did not work out as well as just sanding to 120, water popping and hitting it again lightly with 120. When I water popped my walnut boards, it did not raise the grain evenly, especially near knots and I can feel this on the final product. I'm sure this is one of those "only I will ever tell things" but I can feel the texture inconsistencies when rubbing my hands over the top. I have not seen this when sanding to 120 though.
Thanks for spreading the information. What if you need to cover two sides of the detail? How long do you wait for the 1st side to dry before flipping the detail?
I just subscribed after watching a lot of your content.. Let me ask this, cutting boards or serving trays require BOTH sides to be finished (as do most things) must you do one side and wait 24 hours, flip and do other side or is it safe to do one side and chock that side with pyramids and do other side at same time?
I understand that this is what Rubio told you to do, but I don’t understand who would either only sand their furniture to 120 or raise the grain with water and not sand it again? You’re going to get visible scratch marks or a rough surface. Maybe for floors but this method baffles me for furniture.
I’m a new user of oil 2c and sheen plus What you state is true. It’s just not a concern with Rubio mono coat system. Take your concerns with feeling and don’t sand. Then use 2c oil and sheen plus for a satiny finish and feel. It just works that way
I have had good results. Don’t really have anything in direct sunlight. I have had normal glass with no long term effects, never placed anything hot directly on it.
Jason, great video. I have a couple questions. Do you not sand after water popping? I tried this last night and the surface feels pretty rough. Wouldn't a non water popped, sanded to 120 be smoother? Also, how long does it take for the slight oily feel take to go away?
I water popped because I went to 150. You don’t necessarily need to at 120 cause the grain is still open and the fibers can bond with the material. Keep in mind that I applied with the pad so when buffing it in, it smooths the surface knocking down any material. Also, it feels rough because we are all use to sanding to a higher grit. As for the oily feel, after wiping Off the excess well, I let it sit for 24 hours. 👍
You can get them on Casaverdepaints website. You can also just but the white scotch bright pads. It the same thing. Also a white floor stripper pad and then cut into pieces
Yo...Great Video!...Thank You. Just wanted to point out a way to save money. I am a firefighter and there are expiration dates on all the various size syringes (1cc - 60cc) we use in EMS.....so...... if you go make friends with your local Fireman and ask nicely, there is a good chance they will give you the expired unused syringes. Enjoy! If not possible, ping me and I may be able to hook you up ;).
Thank you Jason, i will certainly follow your recomendations. Soon i am going to apply this product on 2.5 meter wood table. I just have a few question: if i should rub down the entire surface manually or use a machine? Should i do it in one go or partially since it is relatively big piece?
You can absolutely use a machine. I know lots of guys that get the pads for the rotex and put it on with that. It will be much faster. I would say do it in sections so it doesn’t sit long before wiping off the excess. It will blend perfectly
A quick added note… A Rubio rep was at my local Woodcraft last week demonstrating the Monocoat product line. He used a non-abrasive pad to apply the product, but also mentioned that you could use a maroon Scotch-Brite pad as an applicator to knock the grain down while spreading the product - sort of like wet sanding. Just thought I'd throw it out there in case it's helpful.
Jason, thanks for the info. I've seen it used before but never really understood much about it. I'll keep this video in mind when I'm ready to use the product in the future.
Wonderful explanation of the steps. Building a live edge white oak kitchen table, using Rubio oil plus, 2c. What are your thoughts in using the Rubio Universal Maintenance material for the final coat?
Thank you so much, really great helpful video for using this product on smaller items. Planning on getting a butcher block desktop and I think this is the finish I will go with for it. Thanks again!
How'd it go for you? I'm working on a butcher block right now desktop right now. Apprehensive about a second coat but feel like I may not have let the first coat bond for long enough, or wiped too much off. Nervous about getting the details for the second coat perfect 😶🌫️
I am looking that the Ceruse products from Rubio and that search returned me to your Video nice demo of the Oil Plus 2C which according to the walk thru on the Rubio Monocoat website is one of the steps for Ceruse of Oak and several other hardwoods.
Hi, I've some live edge counters that I want to treat. Am I correct in saying there was no buffing machine needed,, just towel and elbow grease to finish off?
Hey I bought an Ikea butcherblock countertop for my kitchen. Found out it's not waterproof or resistant so I was thinking of applying Rubio to it so I can rest easy when I do the dishes and not worry about water damage. Can I still apply Rubio to it even if it's from Ikea? Do I skip the sanding process?
Will this finish be suitable for open grain wood like white oak? And after sanding to a higher grit ( 180/220 ) before learning about this product, is it possible to resand with a lower grit to fix this? Thanks
The reason for water popping at grits over 120 is to open the pores to allow proper adhesion. I have also applied up to 180 without water popping and had great results.
Your RM video was helpful. My question is this: I have hard maple kitchen counter tops; what I need is a finish resistant to water and a gloss top coat. If RM isn’t best what is?
Great video! The syringe tip should not be included in the mm amount. That will actually throw off the ratio. Flip syringe up and measure without any in the tip.
Do you sand after you water pop the grain? Or just apply after? I am new to Rubio and didn’t see you sand after you raised the grain. Thank you in advance
Hi Ben, thank you for sharing your tips on using Rubio Monocoat oil Plus. Will this method give a similar finish to White Oak Veneer surfaces? Have you tried their 'Smoke - Rubio Monocoat' ? If so, could you upload a video demonstration of Smoke on white oak please? Thank you.
great video on the Rubio. I used it on a large lazy susan and i hated it. It seemed really dull and patchy so i'm gonna have to try a second coat from now on. I also didn't use the applicator pad, i just used a rag and rubbed it in well. It is very hard to get a good video showing a proper process and you nailed it. Cheers and thanks for the video!!
Hi, thanks for the video, Where do yo buy those rectangular pads. I have a round version that sticks to the end of a drill chuck. But not sure I like that method. I also use a festool felt pad that attaches to my orbital sander but sometimes the hairs from the felt get stuck in the wood. Super annoying!
Hi Jason. Thanks for doing this video. I noticed a couple questions below from commenters but I still have not found where you answered it. In your video you sand to 150, water pop, then apply oil. Does Rubio recommend sanding again with 150 after water popping? Or does Rubio recommend water popping at 150 grit, then going directly to applying the finish? I followed your video exactly and it is a "no go" for me. It's super rough. I am wondering if you mis-stated the sequencing or left something out. Thanks again for all the videos. I would love to figure this out.
Rubio will actually tell you to not sand past 120. Try a light “sanding” with a maroon pad and then apply a second coat. The purpose of water popping at higher grits is to open the pores back up so the finish does a better job of bonding to the fibers. Also, when buffing in the finish it will usually knock anything down. Keep in mind the finish will never feel as smooth as what most are use to with finishes that are sanded to much higher grits.
Thanks for this video. I am doing my fist table with C2 and plan on applying a 2nd coat. Do you think the maroon 3M pads (moderate striping) at Home Depot would be suitable for the scuffing of the 1st coat?
If i only sand to 100 grit and still have swirl marks, will the finish fill them in? Also do you think a mineral spirit wax and grease remover product will do the same job as the Rubio cleaner?
I heard you say you built a dining table I think. Have you used the Rubio Maintenance Coat? I believe it adds a bit of a sheen to the top but has to be reapplied every 3 to 6 months.
I noticed that other people sand very lightly after water popping because of how rough the wood gets. I don't see that in your video. Did you skip that step intentionally or is it just not in the video?
The water piping help open the pores after sanding to higher grits which helps the bonding to the wood fibers. I’m not convinced it’s totally necessary.
For the slipping comment I think it would be an excellent choice. Any other form filming finish would be far slicker than using this. And I believe that for two reasons, one you would stand up to a much higher grit. Two you would be building up to finish that is naturally more slick. This you sound to a much lower grit and it penetrates so it’s actually much more raw feel
Jason, thanks for this review. If you're ever up to making another video on hard wax oil, I'd love to see your thoughts on Fiddes Hard Wax oil. It's about half the price of Rubio and seems to be a promising alternative to Rubio.
Great video! I was searching for someone who applied a second coat on wood that absorbs more of the oil (in my case redwood). Thanks for covering that aspect, I'll try it out!
I built a large table out of mediaeval Walnut. Lots of distressed areas that I filled with black epoxy. In order to get the epoxy to look good I sanded it to 600 (even 800 over a section with some small swirls) . I just Popped the grain and then bought Rubio. Now what? Any advise? Kind of guessing here but Do I sand it down to 180, apply a coat, sand epoxy to 600 and apply again?
Unfortunately I don’t have any experience with epoxy and Rubio. Rubio will actually not recommend it for epoxy as it is designed to bond with wood fibers. Now, with that being said, a lot of people have done it many times.
I have one more question. I have followed your instructions and also did a second coat. I used the 9” buffer with a white pad and It feels and looks great but I can see the buffer lines from certain angles. I assumed it would dry over the next couple days but they are still there after 5 days now. Any ideas?
Very cool thanks for the tips and tricks. I am going to be using Rubio for the first time in on my benchtop bench, so thanks. So I assume on the table you would do the finish on the sides and bottom as well. Do you do them all the same time or do one surface at a time and then let it sit for 24 hours before you moved on to say the sides or bottom? Also how do you think the pure color looks on the walnut compared to the color they have for example on there website?
@@bentswoodworking so you don't have to let it sit then for 24 hours before moving on. Good to know. I figured you would need to have it do so before having it rest on something beforehand. Appreciate it.
the author does like to from scratch, shaping and trimming wood from large blocks into fine finished products. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxD-QRFQz730FJEh4f9BYSf-nkIMIC9hL_ as another reviewer mentioned, most projects require a lot of high-dollar equipment that most of us dont have the room or budget for. But, knowing how to do these things, even if we wont be able to practice the full stack project, is still great.
So - leaving a comment 4 years after the post was made😂
Great video, great tutorial, great information!
Been a carpenter and builder for 3o odd years. A co-worker recently recommended Rubio '2c' for a 'coffe river table' finish, topping of with their finishing oil.
So, visited a demonstration in Malmö (southern Sweden).
While being well informed there by a great salesman, your input is as great as it comes!
Having used a lot of different products over the years (incl 'danish oil'), I am totally convinced of Rubio being a superior product.
Thanks, a great video.
Merry Christmas 2023 😊❤
Thank you for the video, really good demonstration and interesting, this is not a troll . On the first application the Rubio didn't absorb once applied due to the molecular structure.
Serious Question 😃 why / how did it absorb the second coat ?
Nevertheless I will be using this method soon .
Many thanks
Dai
No, it did absorb more into those areas. It still absorbs into the wood. It just bonds with the fibers. Certain areas it will absorb more especially on walnut
@@bentswoodworking thank you for your time, I will be looking to try it with walnut soon .
Thank you for the excellent video .
Dai
Great video
thank you . question please first i know very little on finishes i general sand to 220 because it feels smoother to me and 320 inbetween coats ? soo ?? have i been messing up ??
Not at all. Most finishes I do the same. Rubio is just a different finish. It bonds to the fibers. The higher you go, the less fibers it has to bond with.
I always thought the squeegee was the only way. Nice to learn a better way.
Can you post a link to the buffing block and handle, please? I'm having hard time finding them. Thanks!
Great vid Jason! I can smell the Rubio deliciousness from here! And thanks for the syringe shoutout!
Smelled so good for days!
Great videos especially about the Rubio Monocoat application. Just about to do my first Monocoat 2C Plus Pure finish on a walnut bath caddy/tray with Ecopoxy FlowCast SPR. Quick newbie question…I have the white 3M pad as well as the maroon 3M pad. Is the 3M white pad similar (but thinner) to the white application pad that you used to apply the Rubio? And is the 3M maroon pad similar to the one that you used. Thank you again for your excellent videos…I’m continuing to learn every day
Yes many companies sell the pads. They actually makes them for sanders as well
Straight to the point. You are an excellent teacher. When I saw this was a 16 min video I initially cringed thinking 12 minutes would be anecdotal stories and 4 minutes of useful intel. But this was time well spent and it seems others below have also noted your strength in this. So I wanted to compliment you and say Thank You!😁
I am making a dinning room set for my son in white oak and he wants the oak to to have little color change and to be as light in color as possible would rubio work and which one? Great presentation and I am a new subscriber.
This is the best 15 or so minutes I've spent on YT in a while! Thanks for the well organized and clearly presented information. You've already answered so many of my questions! I am planning to use RM to seal my walnut island top, which is not yet installed. Quick question- if I apply to the bottom of my island first, do I need to wait any length of time before I can flip it over and apply to the top and sides? Thanks in advance :)
Nope! I would do the bottom, wipe it down, then flip it and do the top. Only thing I would do is put it on some painters triangles for about 24 hours so the underside dries. 👍
@@bentswoodworking Awesome! That's just what I'll do. Thank you so much!
Awesome video man! I think I'll try this application next time.
Do it!
Im just now myself learning about the Rubio system and cant wait to try it. Thanks for all the helpful application and other useful tips. One Question is the small table top I am going to be working on has a large crack that I plan on doing a Resin pour on. Should I do that first before I apply the Rubio to the rest of the table?
I would fill the holes first, yes
I am doing an Oak table and the grain does not seem to be filling in. I am concern that if something spills it will seep into the grain. what should I do? I also have the rubio maintenance that I will be putting on it after it dries
for 36 hours.
I use it directly on oak and haven’t had any issues
When applying the second coat, could I use 120 grit sandpape(lightly pressed) instead of the maroon pad. My local hardware stores do not supply the circular pad that you use.
I couldn’t say yes or no. I personally think it may be fine with light pressure
Great video and very in-depth. I was looking for something for a cherry coffee table that I’m building and I think this might be just the ticket! Thanks again and keep up the good work!
Glad you found it helpful
Jason best rubiomonocoat video on UA-cam. Very thorough! And I don’t think you talked a lot haha
Oh I always talk a lot. 🤣🤣 But thank you 👊🏼👊🏼
Thanks, you, explained everything clear . I really like that look of the finished wood .
Glad you found it helpful
Scrubber pad “I like to use THIS” ? “This’? Please clarify. Just spent half hour circling in Home Depot looking for it. No link in your description. Would have bought through you.
It’s a non abrasive white pad. They are available on Rubios website
8:37 Hey, Ryan sent you a friend request 😂
I think the knots and voids are the prettiest part of that wood 😂
Nothing wrong with that 👍
Just tested my first batch of the Rubio and I’m way more pumped on the color saturation and feel than I was expecting. Going to let it cure for a week and see bit I think this will be a great finish for our mid century kitchen cabinet rehab. Thanks for the clear instructions. Straight to the point.
Man what a difference in your videos now vs 6 months ago. Bravo. Bravo.
Lol yeah hopefully in 6 more months they will be even better
I love your videos, however, the sound seems far lower volume from most others. I have full volume and still a bit difficult if there is any background noise at all. Keep up your good work and videos.
Thanks Jason! Your videos are always informative. I also love the way you present your content. Keep up the good work.
Thank you!!
If you want more shine and less flate looking areas, use Howards UV furniture oil over the rubio. 2 coats of rubio didnt do the trick, but howards did. It looks real shiney at first but cures more satin, but shinier than rubio.
Can you go over that with a ceramic finish
I may be trying that soon myself
Would love to hear your thoughts below!! 👍
Thanks for the video and the way you explain. Very detailed and straight to the point. Good work!
Thanks for such nice detailed instruction, very useful for first users like myself. A question remained: the cans say you should stir before use. You stir after mixing the 2 components, but I don't see you stir the original can content. Would you recommend to stir each component first, before using the syringe to extract?
I do stir up the oil yes.
I see that you do not recommend lighting sanding after water popping. The Wood Whisperer's video on Rubio Monocoat application adds in this additional step (light sanding at the same grit which was "water popped") after water popping. I fail to see how sanding _after_ water popping for Rubio is a good idea, since you'd be closing those pores that you just "popped" open, again but, I trust the wood whisperer's advice, usually. Do you have any insight into this discrepancy? Have you ever lightly sanded after water popping? Thank you for making these videos.
The point of water popping is because you need to open the pores up to allow better bonding when sanding to grits higher that the 120 which Rubio recommends. If you sand lightly after water popping, then it may give you less bonding abilities. Now, will all that being said, water popping isn’t a necessity from my experience. Also, I know plenty of people that sand to higher grits and still use it without issues. Just test it out on a small piece before starting your project and do what you find works best for you.
When using Rubio mono coat how long do you have to wait till you can use the table? Liked your viedo
I moved it inside and started using 24 hours after I was done with application
This video is better the Rubios video. Thank you for this. And I'll definitely be subscribing to the channel!
Glad you found it helpful
Thanks for this, im making my table today very useful video !!! XD
Awesome!!
Best video I have found to date! I have two questions...if you don't mind...How many square feet does the 350ml cover? And if I choose to do a second coat, do I need to use the accelerator with it? Thanks again for the great video...cannot wait to get this stuff and start on my butcher block...!
I don’t know the exact square footage but a little goes a long way. And yes I would always use the accelerator either way
Great video, thank you!
1. What sanding grit should I use for a desk table top made from baltic birch plywood? It's already sanded at the factory but I don't know to what grit they sanded it.
2. I understand that water popping a 150-grit-sanded-wood opens the pores to have a better molecular bond and hence make the surface more durable, but could you please explain what happens to the smoothness of the wood after water popping? Will you get as smooth a result after applying the Rubio as without water popping? In other words, are durability and smoothness opposite tradeoffs, or is the surface both durable and smooth?
if you have epoxy in a hole with something in hole will you still see it through the monocoat?
Yes you would
We are going to build an island countertop and are thinking of using walnut. The countertop will be approx. 110" X 54". Do you recommend using this on an island that will get heavy use and what about setting hot items on it? How much of the Rubio do you think we will need for that size?
I think it would be ok and is easy to repair when it gets damaged. May be better options out there for that application though.
Hi there! Great video, do you know what the name of the white applicator pad is called? Can I buy at home depot?
I already have the 2C rubio mono, but just need the white pad (don't want to use plastic spreader).
Thanks!
They are non abrasive pads. I haven’t found the exact ones but have found similar. Rubio does sell the pads on their website
@@bentswoodworking is it something like this shorturl.at/jsDUZ ?? Thanks for this video! your demo has convinced me to try oil based products.
I've used your methods on a few projects and it worked great! On my latest project I tried your sand to 150 then water pop method and it did not work out as well as just sanding to 120, water popping and hitting it again lightly with 120. When I water popped my walnut boards, it did not raise the grain evenly, especially near knots and I can feel this on the final product. I'm sure this is one of those "only I will ever tell things" but I can feel the texture inconsistencies when rubbing my hands over the top. I have not seen this when sanding to 120 though.
Thanks for spreading the information. What if you need to cover two sides of the detail? How long do you wait for the 1st side to dry before flipping the detail?
I just subscribed after watching a lot of your content.. Let me ask this, cutting boards or serving trays require BOTH sides to be finished (as do most things) must you do one side and wait 24 hours, flip and do other side or is it safe to do one side and chock that side with pyramids and do other side at same time?
I understand that this is what Rubio told you to do, but I don’t understand who would either only sand their furniture to 120 or raise the grain with water and not sand it again? You’re going to get visible scratch marks or a rough surface. Maybe for floors but this method baffles me for furniture.
I’m a new user of oil 2c and sheen plus
What you state is true. It’s just not a concern with Rubio mono coat system.
Take your concerns with feeling and don’t sand.
Then use 2c oil and sheen plus for a satiny finish and feel.
It just works that way
Jason How does this product hold up to sunlight and hot and cold cups. glasses, plates etc. Thanks Paul
I have had good results. Don’t really have anything in direct sunlight. I have had normal glass with no long term effects, never placed anything hot directly on it.
I have about 5'x7' walnut island. Is the set of Rubio you have enough for that much surface? 2:21
Jason, great video. I have a couple questions. Do you not sand after water popping? I tried this last night and the surface feels pretty rough. Wouldn't a non water popped, sanded to 120 be smoother? Also, how long does it take for the slight oily feel take to go away?
I water popped because I went to 150. You don’t necessarily need to at 120 cause the grain is still open and the fibers can bond with the material. Keep in mind that I applied with the pad so when buffing it in, it smooths the surface knocking down any material. Also, it feels rough because we are all use to sanding to a higher grit. As for the oily feel, after wiping Off the excess well, I let it sit for 24 hours. 👍
Does anyone know where you find those white applicator pads?! I've tried two hardware stores. No luck.
You can get them on Casaverdepaints website. You can also just but the white scotch bright pads. It the same thing. Also a white floor stripper pad and then cut into pieces
Bent's Woodworking hi Jason, are those pads the ‘non scratch’ scrub sponges?
Yo...Great Video!...Thank You. Just wanted to point out a way to save money. I am a firefighter and there are expiration dates on all the various size syringes (1cc - 60cc) we use in EMS.....so...... if you go make friends with your local Fireman and ask nicely, there is a good chance they will give you the expired unused syringes. Enjoy! If not possible, ping me and I may be able to hook you up ;).
Awesome, good to know!!
Got a link to that white pad?
I don’t but they can be ordered from Rubio USA
Good information! In the first part your were standing in front of your clamps, looks like you need more clamps! Just kidding.
I could always use more lol
Thank you Jason, i will certainly follow your recomendations. Soon i am going to apply this product on 2.5 meter wood table. I just have a few question: if i should rub down the entire surface manually or use a machine? Should i do it in one go or partially since it is relatively big piece?
You can absolutely use a machine. I know lots of guys that get the pads for the rotex and put it on with that. It will be much faster. I would say do it in sections so it doesn’t sit long before wiping off the excess. It will blend perfectly
A quick added note… A Rubio rep was at my local Woodcraft last week demonstrating the Monocoat product line. He used a non-abrasive pad to apply the product, but also mentioned that you could use a maroon Scotch-Brite pad as an applicator to knock the grain down while spreading the product - sort of like wet sanding.
Just thought I'd throw it out there in case it's helpful.
Thanks!! 👍
Is woodcraft going to carry the Rubio line of products? Haven't seen these in any woodworking store or home center.
@@troymeredith521 - The Woodcraft store in St. Louis carries the Rubio products. I suppose any Woodcraft can get them.
Good luck!
Jason, thanks for the info. I've seen it used before but never really understood much about it. I'll keep this video in mind when I'm ready to use the product in the future.
Excellent!
Wonderful explanation of the steps. Building a live edge white oak kitchen table, using Rubio oil plus, 2c.
What are your thoughts in using the Rubio Universal Maintenance material for the final coat?
Thank you so much, really great helpful video for using this product on smaller items. Planning on getting a butcher block desktop and I think this is the finish I will go with for it. Thanks again!
How'd it go for you? I'm working on a butcher block right now desktop right now. Apprehensive about a second coat but feel like I may not have let the first coat bond for long enough, or wiped too much off. Nervous about getting the details for the second coat perfect 😶🌫️
Glad it was helpful!
@@user-bh8ys8ii4i I've ordered the desktop, it should be here by Friday!
The simplicity of this process is boggling my mind. And As always you explain it like a pro. Thanks JB
Thanks!
What's the re application method for this? Just a light sanding with 300ish sanding then wipe back on?
It isn’t needed with most woods but I have a second coat application demo in this video
Thank you for all the information, have yet to try Rubio monocoat with all the reviews and your video is a perfect tutorial.
Glad you found it helpful!!
I am looking that the Ceruse products from Rubio and that search returned me to your Video nice demo of the Oil Plus 2C which according to the walk thru on the Rubio Monocoat website is one of the steps for Ceruse of Oak and several other hardwoods.
Can you apply Rubio oil ( pure) after staining the wood
Can you use Rubio on a cutting board project? Will you end up seeing knife scores whereas with a mineral oil treated cutting board less so.
You would still see any cutting marks. It definitely won’t stop that.
Hi i thought the white pad is for whiping oil of as finish. Greetings from the Netherlands.
Hi, I've some live edge counters that I want to treat. Am I correct in saying there was no buffing machine needed,, just towel and elbow grease to finish off?
Correct
Hey I bought an Ikea butcherblock countertop for my kitchen. Found out it's not waterproof or resistant so I was thinking of applying Rubio to it so I can rest easy when I do the dishes and not worry about water damage. Can I still apply Rubio to it even if it's from Ikea? Do I skip the sanding process?
I don’t see why you couldn’t. I would just treat it like any other wood project
What color of oil 2C would you recommend for a river table with black epoxy? Wood is either ash or hickory.
Pure because of the epoxy but it isn’t really designed for epoxy. However, plenty of people do it
Will this finish be suitable for open grain wood like white oak? And after sanding to a higher grit ( 180/220 ) before learning about this product, is it possible to resand with a lower grit to fix this? Thanks
I have used Rubio on white oak a lot. No issues. Also, I know plenty of people that sand higher than the recommended 120 with no issues.
question. raw wood cleaner pretty much the same thing is mineral spirits?
I think it is but I’m not certain
I thought you sanded after water popping. Is your recommendation to sand to 150 then water pop then clean with rwc, then don’t sand again?
The reason for water popping at grits over 120 is to open the pores to allow proper adhesion. I have also applied up to 180 without water popping and had great results.
Your RM video was helpful. My question is this: I have hard maple kitchen counter tops; what I need is a finish resistant to water and a gloss top coat. If RM isn’t best what is?
Take a look at waterlox
Great video! The syringe tip should not be included in the mm amount. That will actually throw off the ratio. Flip syringe up and measure without any in the tip.
Thanks for the info!
So with this being a one coat finish, this is completely smooth to the touch after the one coat?
If done properly yes. Now it’s smooth to whatever grit you sand too
Do you sand after you water pop the grain? Or just apply after? I am new to Rubio and didn’t see you sand after you raised the grain. Thank you in advance
I did not. The purpose is to open the pores for the finish. Sanding it again would close them off. I almost never water pop anymore
You said it is combustible, does that mean make sure candles don’t get placed on the wood?
Great video. Simple and straight to the point; no bs. Well done!!!
Glad you found it helpful
Very useful ahead of my first monocoat job - many thanks
Great video. How do you find the durability to compare with a standard wipe on oil poly like miniwax?
Where do I get the "white applicator pad" and block?
How a apply Rubio monocoat black finish
Hi Ben, thank you for sharing your tips on using Rubio Monocoat oil Plus. Will this method give a similar finish to White Oak Veneer surfaces? Have you tried their 'Smoke - Rubio Monocoat' ? If so, could you upload a video demonstration of Smoke on white oak please? Thank you.
I plan to do an oak finish comparison soon. Pure on white oak give an orange tint
great video on the Rubio. I used it on a large lazy susan and i hated it. It seemed really dull and patchy so i'm gonna have to try a second coat from now on. I also didn't use the applicator pad, i just used a rag and rubbed it in well. It is very hard to get a good video showing a proper process and you nailed it.
Cheers and thanks for the video!!
Glad you found it helpful!!
Always a great video! I am a believer now in this product brother!
Hi please can you tell me exactly which type of floor pad you used. Thank you
They are non abrasive pads that are available on Rubio website
Hi, thanks for the video, Where do yo buy those rectangular pads. I have a round version that sticks to the end of a drill chuck. But not sure I like that method. I also use a festool felt pad that attaches to my orbital sander but sometimes the hairs from the felt get stuck in the wood. Super annoying!
From rubios website
Does this dry to a hard finish
It doesn’t feel like say a polyurethane but it seals the food completely
Have you done a pre color treatment before this? Would the above treatment simply follow the pre treatment step?
I haven’t tried the pre color yet
How long is the curing process when using Rubio?
Great video - I'm going to try Rubio on my next project. This was super informative and gives me the confidence to go for it. Thanks!
Awesome!!
Hi Jason. Thanks for doing this video. I noticed a couple questions below from commenters but I still have not found where you answered it. In your video you sand to 150, water pop, then apply oil. Does Rubio recommend sanding again with 150 after water popping? Or does Rubio recommend water popping at 150 grit, then going directly to applying the finish? I followed your video exactly and it is a "no go" for me. It's super rough. I am wondering if you mis-stated the sequencing or left something out. Thanks again for all the videos. I would love to figure this out.
Rubio will actually tell you to not sand past 120. Try a light “sanding” with a maroon pad and then apply a second coat. The purpose of water popping at higher grits is to open the pores back up so the finish does a better job of bonding to the fibers. Also, when buffing in the finish it will usually knock anything down. Keep in mind the finish will never feel as smooth as what most are use to with finishes that are sanded to much higher grits.
Thanks for this video. I am doing my fist table with C2 and plan on applying a 2nd coat. Do you think the maroon 3M pads (moderate striping) at Home Depot would be suitable for the scuffing of the 1st coat?
That’s what I used in this video
Hey Jason. You said to sand to 120, maybe 150. Well I sanded to 320. What can I do to get it right for the Rubio?
@@Cooked45huh? Don’t you got to a lower grit and come back up to your desired grit?
If i only sand to 100 grit and still have swirl marks, will the finish fill them in? Also do you think a mineral spirit wax and grease remover product will do the same job as the Rubio cleaner?
Sand it to 120 and that will help with the marks. Also, I’m not sure on the cleaner product.
I heard you say you built a dining table I think. Have you used the Rubio Maintenance Coat? I believe it adds a bit of a sheen to the top but has to be reapplied every 3 to 6 months.
I haven’t used it myself
I noticed that other people sand very lightly after water popping because of how rough the wood gets. I don't see that in your video. Did you skip that step intentionally or is it just not in the video?
I would only raise the grain if I sanded 180 or higher personally
What is the advantage of sanding to 150 and water popping vs just sanding to 120? Thanks
The water piping help open the pores after sanding to higher grits which helps the bonding to the wood fibers. I’m not convinced it’s totally necessary.
How did you choose the colour? Why not the wall nut color
Would this finish be good for a maple and walnut woodworking bench or would it be too slick making gripping wood on the surface an issue?
For the slipping comment I think it would be an excellent choice. Any other form filming finish would be far slicker than using this. And I believe that for two reasons, one you would stand up to a much higher grit. Two you would be building up to finish that is naturally more slick. This you sound to a much lower grit and it penetrates so it’s actually much more raw feel
Jason, thanks for this review. If you're ever up to making another video on hard wax oil, I'd love to see your thoughts on Fiddes Hard Wax oil. It's about half the price of Rubio and seems to be a promising alternative to Rubio.
I haven’t heard of that before. I’ll have to check it out
Great video! I was searching for someone who applied a second coat on wood that absorbs more of the oil (in my case redwood). Thanks for covering that aspect, I'll try it out!
Glad you found it helpful
After adding the second coat can you increase the shine more by putting the maintenance oil over the second coat of Rubio ?
I’ve heard that but haven’t tried it
I built a large table out of mediaeval Walnut. Lots of distressed areas that I filled with black epoxy. In order to get the epoxy to look good I sanded it to 600 (even 800 over a section with some small swirls) . I just Popped the grain and then bought Rubio. Now what? Any advise? Kind of guessing here but Do I sand it down to 180, apply a coat, sand epoxy to 600 and apply again?
Unfortunately I don’t have any experience with epoxy and Rubio. Rubio will actually not recommend it for epoxy as it is designed to bond with wood fibers. Now, with that being said, a lot of people have done it many times.
I have one more question. I have followed your instructions and also did a second coat. I used the 9” buffer with a white pad and It feels and looks great but I can see the buffer lines from certain angles. I assumed it would dry over the next couple days but they are still there after 5 days now. Any ideas?
@@warrenzinger1109 unfortunately I don’t have any experience using a buffer like that.
Very cool thanks for the tips and tricks. I am going to be using Rubio for the first time in on my benchtop bench, so thanks. So I assume on the table you would do the finish on the sides and bottom as well. Do you do them all the same time or do one surface at a time and then let it sit for 24 hours before you moved on to say the sides or bottom? Also how do you think the pure color looks on the walnut compared to the color they have for example on there website?
I do the bottom first then I flip it and do everything else. I do it all at once.
@@bentswoodworking so you don't have to let it sit then for 24 hours before moving on. Good to know. I figured you would need to have it do so before having it rest on something beforehand. Appreciate it.