@@june-we2wi That's weird. Osmo has been used for decades in Europe. It was actually designed in Europe for hardwood floors. I've never had that issue.
@@chrispokorney6801 Well I can only speak for our experiences with it and it happened 3 years running . Not only that a man on UA-cam found numerous others with the same problem , and each photo was showing exact same thing happening .
18 months is nothing. I wouldn't call this a durable finish. I can't imagine any client being happy with a table that needs to be refinished every couple of years
Just used Rubio for the first time on my coffee table build. Just like you, I am very happy with the product👍 Good to know that it refinishes well as well. Thanks for sharing 👍
Just fyi they aren’t buffing pads they are applicator pads and you can find them on rubios site. Bit expensive if you ask be, a standard stain applicator from HD would be just fine. However I suppose when your spending $200+ on the plus 2C what’s another $16 for the pads lol.
Do you know if Rubio has a UV protection aspect? I can’t find anything online. My table will be in a large window space and I’m worried about it yellowing over time.
Quick tip: WD-40 can remove permanent marker/sharpie. I’ve done this before and it worked really well. Regardless, thanks for sharing this information.
Have you ever used the Rubio maintenance oil over Pure 2C? And if so, how often do you have to re-apply with just normal use (for an office desk in my case)? Thanks!
Great video Jason! I literally just came in from the shop where I was refinishing my coffee table with Pure 2C. Super easy application and the shop smells great! LOL. Thanks for all the tips!
Looks good, just ordered some for a table and benches in oak I've made, looks like a commercial alternative to spray polishing and lacquers, good video 👍
Thanks for the video 🙏 What you added was not a „hardener“, but an accelerator, right? Sorry, I am new to this. So the only thing the accelerator does it speed up the drying process, right?
Thanks for the update. I'm about to build a walnut table and was going to try Rubio. Was a single coat enough for the refinishing? I've seen on your and other videos that suggest a second coat on walnut.
I'm not at all at Jason's level, but I've learned that I won't use Rubio on something that gets heavy use. It's perfect for the walnut paneling in my office cuz it doesn't get touched much.
@@nickbailey202 Considering that Rubio comes from the world of floor finishing, I'm curious why you say that. I have no issues with using Rubio on pieces that get heavy use, in fact, I prefer it. It's very simple and easy to repair those pieces that ultimately get damaged, and for me, it holds up extremely well.
I have a walnut desktop a friend helped me build that we applied one coat of tung oil to, before I decided I didn't want to mess with the upkeep of tung oil in the long term. I've already sanded it down; would you say I can apply Rubio to it now or am I just out of luck at this point?
Hey there Jason had a question for you, how much Rubio would you end up buying if you were doing a a project to something the size of your table? I did not know how long the shelf life is and did not want a lot to go to waste if I did not need or use it all. So was not sure since it seems like you said a lot goes a long way.
Hi Jason. I was wondering if I used a paste wax over my Rubio 2C-finished walnut table if that would improve the protection from water stains but still keep the ability to spot repair if/when needed. Ever tried this? I’ve also seen ceramic coating videos-would that be better than paste wax? Thanks for all your help and your videos!!
Not sure if anyone said this yet but using an dry erase marker will take off sharpie just color over the sharpie and wipe off. Father of a 20 month old lol
Mosquito spray erases "sharpie" marks. Spray on cloth and wipe away the marks. Saying this, I expect you had more reasons than "kid damage" to refinish the table :-)
I havent tried a hardwax oil yet. I like the idea for a piece that wont get much wear. For a table though, I wouldnt want to have to do this that often. I just finished a walnut coffee table. polymerized tung oil/varnish blend (danish oil) to wet sand and fill the pores/seal. Then a few coats of wiping varnish or even a few more coats of the danish oil provides a lot more protection than the hardwax oil but is easy to repair if and when it needs it. Tung oil is great for moisture resistance and after the wood is sealed, it starts to build a nice sheen. Not to mention better wear resistance then the HWO's. So far it's my favorite finish. Looking forward to trying the HWO for some picture display shelves soon.
This is my favorite finish for a durable, velvet feeling table top. Wet sanding with the home made danish oil on there makes an amazing feeling finish. When I mix up my own danish, sometimes I even tint the first coat with an oil based stain. 🤟 But I am using Rubio on 16 new ash doors. Its perfect for something like that
I’m looking to use this product on a live edge black walnut table. Will it be ok on its own for daily dinner use and any water spills? Or do you advise to coat with a polyurethane?
How good would Rubio perform aesthetically if you merely sanded little areas of the sharpie marker out (did not sand the entire piece), then touched it up with Rubio? My thought process is to sand the table top every 5-10 years for a complete refinish, and touch-up applications in the interim with Rubio. Of course kiddos will change that cycle 😂. Just curious if a re-sanding is necessary always. Great follow up to your original lesson 👍
Jason, a very helpful video. I see Rubio also makes exterior finishes. I have a mahogany front door (New England) that faces north. Any thoughts on how Rubio would hold up?
Can Oil Plus 2C be used on anything other than raw wood? I have an Ash tabletop dyed with india ink (which contains shellac). Would the Oil Plus likely not bond well with that dye on the wood?
@@bentswoodworking Thank you! I reached out to Rubio last night and they confirmed that they are unable to guarantee that Oil Plus 2C will bond to anything other than raw wood or wood treated with Rubio pre-treatment products. I was hoping to abandon my plans to finish a large waterfall-edge table top with GF Arm-R-Seal when I saw this video detailing the simplicity of application and durability of Rubio. Lesson learned, perhaps I'll give it a try on the next tabletop. Thanks for everything you do!
Very cool yeah I made an expandable dining table 40’ x 72 - 102” using Rubio oil plus 2C Cotton White solid Ash for my daughter and she sat a planter on it and water had drained outta the pot onto the table and sat there awhile staining it 😱 🙄 so I gotta sand ir down and spot traet it next week so we’ll see how that goes
You already converted me to a born again Rubio evangelist. I just did a walnut table for my daughter and she keeps asking me what to use for day to day polishing and maintenance?
I just finished my office desk. it was a redwood slab. I used regular odorless mineral spirits to clean it instead of their cleaner and it worked as good. I am not sure how their cleaner is any different. Apart from that it's an absolutely gorgeous finish I have ever used and so easy to use! This was my first woodworking project and Rubio made it very easy.
Hi Jason, this is a great review as I am planning on using Rubio on my next project. It appears to be easy to apply. Question: What Festool Sander did you use to remove the finish?
I’m curious about this question myself. I know it might be overkill, but I usually do 4 coat hand sanded 3-2-1 (Thinner, Poly, Linseed). This looks so much easier and durable!
@@jamaxit Im OK with overkill! A one coat solution that holds up well sounds like a winner to me, even if the cost of the finish is higher. Cabinet face frames and doors are by far a lower wear item than a table, and this table looks to be holding up quite well. I also like the idea of just sanding to a 180 and finishing, instead of 220, and then a 320 sanding between coats. Time is money, even if its just a project for myself.
@@bentswoodworking I have considered using a Danish oil type finish as well, as its simple and easy to repair when something does take a ding, which it inevitably will at some point. Im still a year out on this project, so Im just weighing options at this point. Im trying to avoid anything that will involve spraying as I dont have a good place to do that, or multiple processes. Thanks for the feedback!
@@CorwinBos Yeah I like Danish Oil too. It's just as easy as Rubio (maybe easier since it doesn't need to be mixed) and has a bit of lacquer in it to provide a bit more protection.
I’m not sure why you seem fairly pleased with that amount of damage in a year. In sanding the whole table, isn’t that the worst case scenario for any finish? Or is it harder to refinish with other types of finish every year?
Much more difficult to spot finish other types (like spray finishes). Hardwax oils are amazing because you can sand down one spot and re-coat and it will look exactly the same. Rubio is an awesome finish. IMO he chose to sand down the whole top because he was already sanding down the edges due to the damage. It's not that much more work just to hit the whole top and re-do it entirely.
I think you misunderstood the overall purpose of the video. There are definitely more durable finishes out there, no question about that. However, people always want to know how it holds up to heavy use items. Here, I wanted to show how mine has while showing how quick and simple it is to repair/refinish if needed. Film forming finishes would take a whole lot more work to do so if needed.
Three questions: How temperature sensitive is the required time for an 80% cure? What can I recommend as a cleaning or dusting product to the people who commission Monocoated work? If there is a Monocoat color blend that approximates the yellowing effect of traditional varnish or lacquer, what is it called? Thanks.
First question, I recommend reaching out to Rubio. Second, I just use a damp rag. That’s it, no other cleaners. Sometimes I will use rubios cleaner but rarely. Third, I’m not totally sure what you are asking.
@@bentswoodworking Lacquer and varnish have a yellow cast to them. Monocoat may come in a yellowish formulation or it may not.Maybe their plain material resembles the yellowish appearance of varnish and lacquer. I don't know and haven't noticed such a notation or name in their color chart. I've used water based finishes that wee described as being clear as water. They have a much different appearance than traditional lacquer and varnish. Can Monocoat be tinted with analine dyes like Transtint to alter their cured appearance? At a hundred bucks a pop I'd like not to have to order in another kit of Monocoat every time I do a project in another wood.
I think Rubio users have become cult like. As an established woodworker, why do Rubio users not put a second coat, Rubio poo pos this cause it’s so expensive. @woodwhisperer did a review of competing hard wax oils, they all did well, he applied two coats, and Natura, which performed better, is way less expensive
Thanks to you i'm doing my original 1950's stair hand rail with charcoal monocoat. Thanks for the vids.
You’re welcome
Thanks for this! I’ve been contemplating Rubio Monocoat for a while. This video definitely makes that decision easy!
I think you will enjoy using it
If you would have used Osmo polyx you could have removed the sharpie marker with out sanding at all. Check it out. And no mixing like Rubio
Agree 100%.
After ten years of using Osmo and having black mould appearing every year , I definitely wouldn’t recommend Osmo products at all .
@@june-we2wi That's weird. Osmo has been used for decades in Europe. It was actually designed in Europe for hardwood floors. I've never had that issue.
@@chrispokorney6801 Well I can only speak for our experiences with it and it happened 3 years running . Not only that a man on UA-cam found numerous others with the same problem , and each photo was showing exact same thing happening .
Created for floors, so it makes sense it would wear well.
The grease remover from Rubio works really well for removing marker stains.
Nice vid. It is always useful to see how a finish holds up after a year. The refinish work is easy - just as you showed. Nice table too!
Thank you!
Remove sharpie, with sharpie. Color over it. No problems removing it.
18 months is nothing. I wouldn't call this a durable finish. I can't imagine any client being happy with a table that needs to be refinished every couple of years
…And Rubio SHOULD darned well perform wonderfully at 600 bucks (six hundred) per can!!! Forgive me for an amateur budget!
Not sure where you are seeing $600 for a can
I've watched a lot of Rubio Monocoat videos. I still don't get it.
Just used Rubio for the first time on my coffee table build. Just like you, I am very happy with the product👍 Good to know that it refinishes well as well. Thanks for sharing 👍
You’re welcome
Sve je super ali puno opširno pricaš,nisam ni do pola videa izdrzao,ali imaš like.🛷🌲🍄🌽🏕
Awesome. Do you have a link to those buffing pads?
I don’t but I got them from the Rubio site. 👍👍
Just fyi they aren’t buffing pads they are applicator pads and you can find them on rubios site. Bit expensive if you ask be, a standard stain applicator from HD would be just fine. However I suppose when your spending $200+ on the plus 2C what’s another $16 for the pads lol.
3M polishing pads on Amazon
Do you know if Rubio has a UV protection aspect? I can’t find anything online. My table will be in a large window space and I’m worried about it yellowing over time.
have you found an answer to that?
@@meuhey no, but I have had my table in the window for about a month and no yellowing so far. At least nothing that I’ve noticed.
Quick tip: WD-40 can remove permanent marker/sharpie. I’ve done this before and it worked really well. Regardless, thanks for sharing this information.
Good tip!
rubbing alcohol or hand sanitizer is less messy.
@@whitexeno And less stinky!
Used Rubio on floors so we end up spot fixing on worm areas and blends in well. So fyi future reference you may not need to sand entire surface!
How does this finish's performance compare to Rubio DuroGrit?
Not sure, never used it
How does rubio compare in toughness and protection conpared to poly?
Oh man, I always make a huge mess with Rubio, but I have about 500 baby medicine syringes I could easily use for this purpose. Thanks for the tip!
You’re welcome
Use some rubbing alcohol on the ink. It should remove it.
Have you ever used the Rubio maintenance oil over Pure 2C? And if so, how often do you have to re-apply with just normal use (for an office desk in my case)? Thanks!
I have not used it yet
Rubbing alcohol will remove ink including sharpie
I only use Conversion Varnish on my table tops. Its almost bullet proof. But I would like to try this Rubio out to see how it holds up. Great video.
Glad you enjoyed it
Great video Jason! I literally just came in from the shop where I was refinishing my coffee table with Pure 2C. Super easy application and the shop smells great! LOL. Thanks for all the tips!
No problem buddy!
Rubio kills it on walnut, looks great
Jason, have you ever tried Rubio on plywood? If so, how did it turn out? Process the same? Thoughts? Stay safe.
I have and I apply it in the same manor.
Too late now but for future marking. Isopropyl alcohol takes off sharpie quick n' easy.
Can this be used over wood stain or do you have to use their colored finish
Their colored finish
Another trick for removing sharpies is to write over it with a sharpie and quickly wipe it off before it dries.
But I’ve also used wd-40 too.
Looks good, just ordered some for a table and benches in oak I've made, looks like a commercial alternative to spray polishing and lacquers, good video 👍
Damnit. Ok fine, I'm doing mine again today and tomorrow.
Isopropyl alcohol can remove permanent marker if the surface is ight. Woodgrain may hold some color. Your mileage may vary in your situation.
Great video. With two little kids, my kitchen table is destroyed. I might to try Rubio. Looks straight forward. Thanks!
Very easy for sure
Thanks for the video 🙏
What you added was not a „hardener“, but an accelerator, right? Sorry, I am new to this. So the only thing the accelerator does it speed up the drying process, right?
Isn’t one major selling point of the Rubio it’s repairability? That you can just spot sand and spot reapply the finish?
Thanks for the update. I'm about to build a walnut table and was going to try Rubio. Was a single coat enough for the refinishing? I've seen on your and other videos that suggest a second coat on walnut.
I just did a single coat this time
1st off: Amazing demo on the Rubio
2nd: Drinking game challence? 1 shot for every time Jason says Rubio 😂
1 way of prevention would be to minimize a 1 yo sharpie use! Lol how?
What is up with Toddlers and sharpies?? We are having to do the same thing- *sigh*
standard white board markers will remove Sharpe pen marks too. just draw over the top and wipe off
I found rubbing alcohol can sometimes wipe Sharpie off. You can try next time if your son does it again.
Zippo lighter fluid would make short work of that sharpie. I keep a small can specifically for cleaning rather than fuel.
Jason, how is your festool trac attached to your garage door? Good video!
They are made by fast cap
Hand sanitizer would have taken the sharpie off. Then you could have touched up the finish depending on what it did to the finish.
hi try using a non permanent marker to remove the sharpie if it happens again. also bug spray works to remove it.
Will do! Thank you 👍
@@bentswoodworking dry erase marker will remove sharpie from just about anything
FYI ethanol or rubbing alcohol easily remove sharpy marker.
Great follow-up, thanks Jason (I remember watching that table build). Can you think of times when you wouldn't use Rubio?
Totally depends on what you are going for. Example, if you wanted a gloss finish, it’s totally out of the question.
I'm not at all at Jason's level, but I've learned that I won't use Rubio on something that gets heavy use. It's perfect for the walnut paneling in my office cuz it doesn't get touched much.
@@nickbailey202 Considering that Rubio comes from the world of floor finishing, I'm curious why you say that. I have no issues with using Rubio on pieces that get heavy use, in fact, I prefer it. It's very simple and easy to repair those pieces that ultimately get damaged, and for me, it holds up extremely well.
@@AlAmantea That's great! A lot of people love it.
Thanks for the video! Rubio looks like a great finish. Love that it is a durable and easily fixable finish.
You’re welcome
Future reference. Toothpaste will remove permanent marker. Not sure how it would effect the finish however.
Beautiful table & great finish. I am going to look into using Rubio on my next project! Thanks for the heads up! 👍👍😉😉
You’re welcome
Non-acetone nail polish remover does a good job on Sharpie ink.
I have a walnut desktop a friend helped me build that we applied one coat of tung oil to, before I decided I didn't want to mess with the upkeep of tung oil in the long term. I've already sanded it down; would you say I can apply Rubio to it now or am I just out of luck at this point?
I would ask Rubio
Jason found this detailed torture test of 4 finishes. ua-cam.com/video/YTMAzJnlHRs/v-deo.html
Glad to see! I have a couple customer projects out there with oil plus 2C. They are very happy so far also!
I have been very pleased with it
Hey there Jason had a question for you, how much Rubio would you end up buying if you were doing a a project to something the size of your table? I did not know how long the shelf life is and did not want a lot to go to waste if I did not need or use it all. So was not sure since it seems like you said a lot goes a long way.
One of the small 350ml cans is more than enough
Next time your kid uses sharpie, try nail polish remover/ Acetone. Thank you for the video though 🙂. It's much needed information.
Glad you found it helpful
If a magic eraser hurt the finish, it's not a very good finish.
Hi Jason. I was wondering if I used a paste wax over my Rubio 2C-finished walnut table if that would improve the protection from water stains but still keep the ability to spot repair if/when needed. Ever tried this? I’ve also seen ceramic coating videos-would that be better than paste wax? Thanks for all your help and your videos!!
Wax I wouldn’t. Supposedly the Ceramic coating can be but Rubio would tell you not too
Not sure if anyone said this yet but using an dry erase marker will take off sharpie just color over the sharpie and wipe off. Father of a 20 month old lol
I’ll have to try that next time. Thanks. I’m sure it will happen again 🤣
Mosquito spray erases "sharpie" marks. Spray on cloth and wipe away the marks. Saying this, I expect you had more reasons than "kid damage" to refinish the table :-)
Interesting about the spray. I have never heard that about that with bug spray. I’ll have to try it on something
I havent tried a hardwax oil yet. I like the idea for a piece that wont get much wear. For a table though, I wouldnt want to have to do this that often. I just finished a walnut coffee table. polymerized tung oil/varnish blend (danish oil) to wet sand and fill the pores/seal. Then a few coats of wiping varnish or even a few more coats of the danish oil provides a lot more protection than the hardwax oil but is easy to repair if and when it needs it. Tung oil is great for moisture resistance and after the wood is sealed, it starts to build a nice sheen. Not to mention better wear resistance then the HWO's. So far it's my favorite finish.
Looking forward to trying the HWO for some picture display shelves soon.
This is my favorite finish for a durable, velvet feeling table top. Wet sanding with the home made danish oil on there makes an amazing feeling finish. When I mix up my own danish, sometimes I even tint the first coat with an oil based stain. 🤟
But I am using Rubio on 16 new ash doors. Its perfect for something like that
I’m looking to use this product on a live edge black walnut table. Will it be ok on its own for daily dinner use and any water spills? Or do you advise to coat with a polyurethane?
You cannot apply anything over the top of this finish.
Rubio cleaner with magic eraser marker gets sharpie right out. From Rubio. Rubio renew.
Good to know, thanks!!
How good would Rubio perform aesthetically if you merely sanded little areas of the sharpie marker out (did not sand the entire piece), then touched it up with Rubio?
My thought process is to sand the table top every 5-10 years for a complete refinish, and touch-up applications in the interim with Rubio. Of course kiddos will change that cycle 😂. Just curious if a re-sanding is necessary always. Great follow up to your original lesson 👍
Rubio can be spot finished. I have tested it a couple times with good results
Jason, a very helpful video. I see Rubio also makes exterior finishes. I have a mahogany front door (New England) that faces north. Any thoughts on how Rubio would hold up?
I have not tried it but I would like too
sharpie comes up ez-pz with rubbing alcohol or hand sanitizer
Good to know
Can Oil Plus 2C be used on anything other than raw wood? I have an Ash tabletop dyed with india ink (which contains shellac). Would the Oil Plus likely not bond well with that dye on the wood?
I would ask Rubio but from my understanding, no, it wouldn’t work properly.
@@bentswoodworking Thank you! I reached out to Rubio last night and they confirmed that they are unable to guarantee that Oil Plus 2C will bond to anything other than raw wood or wood treated with Rubio pre-treatment products. I was hoping to abandon my plans to finish a large waterfall-edge table top with GF Arm-R-Seal when I saw this video detailing the simplicity of application and durability of Rubio. Lesson learned, perhaps I'll give it a try on the next tabletop. Thanks for everything you do!
Very cool yeah I made an expandable dining table 40’ x 72 - 102” using Rubio oil plus 2C Cotton White solid Ash for my daughter and she sat a planter on it and water had drained outta the pot onto the table and sat there awhile staining it 😱 🙄 so I gotta sand ir down and spot traet it next week so we’ll see how that goes
Interested on the results
You already converted me to a born again Rubio evangelist. I just did a walnut table for my daughter and she keeps asking me what to use for day to day polishing and maintenance?
We just used a damp rag. That’s it. Rubio makes a cleaner as well
Would this be a good coating on stairs? White oak is the species.
I just finished my office desk. it was a redwood slab. I used regular odorless mineral spirits to clean it instead of their cleaner and it worked as good. I am not sure how their cleaner is any different. Apart from that it's an absolutely gorgeous finish I have ever used and so easy to use! This was my first woodworking project and Rubio made it very easy.
Which finish did you use? About to stain/seal a redwood slab desk too!
@@mattmo91 used rubio monocoat pure. I used 2 coats.
@@ashutoshsrivastava303 Nice! You happy with the results?
@@mattmo91 yup.. quite a lot. I have also used it on a cottonwood slab... If you want a satin finish, this is hard to beat
Beautiful table! Thank you for the video. Have you put anything on top of the Rubio such as wax or a ceramic coating?
I have not. It is not recommended.
Upto which grit the surface has been sanded?
Hi Jason, this is a great review as I am planning on using Rubio on my next project. It appears to be easy to apply.
Question: What Festool Sander did you use to remove the finish?
ETs EC 150/5
Very helpful. Thanks Jason. Does Rubio come in different sheens like glossy?
No, if you’re looking for gloss Rubio definitely isn’t an option
My dining room table desperately needs to be refinished and I have been putting it off. But that is too easy. Looks like I'll be finally doing it.
Give it a shot!
Great video. Building my first live edge too. Will be utilized outdoors in Tennessee. Is Rubio, a viable option?
They make an actual outdoor finish
Out of curiosity, did you ever use the Rubio Maintenance oil?
I have not
Would this be a good finish for wood cabinets durability wise? They have a few stains I love on white oak
I don’t know if I would use them on kitchen cabinets.
Great video, very informative!
Ha! My son at 3-4 years old decided to grab a rock and draw some pics for dad on his car!!! 🤣🤣🤣
Oh man, I know those days are coming for me 🤣
Hey Jason, what is that lid you're using on the accelerator? That would be a life saver with that stuff!
It’s the lid that comes on the larger set
Rubio duo coat, they named it wrong.
Beautiful table! Tried to find a build video on it but couldn’t. What species of wood is it?
Thank you! This is walnut - the table build is one of my earlier videos. I also sell plans for this table on my website. www.bentswoodworking.com
Very nice!
Do you think that Rubio would be a good finish for kitchen cabinets?
I’m curious about this question myself. I know it might be overkill, but I usually do 4 coat hand sanded 3-2-1 (Thinner, Poly, Linseed). This looks so much easier and durable!
I would probably still use a more durable finish for that but I suppose you could. Would be easy to repair when needed.
@@jamaxit Im OK with overkill! A one coat solution that holds up well sounds like a winner to me, even if the cost of the finish is higher. Cabinet face frames and doors are by far a lower wear item than a table, and this table looks to be holding up quite well. I also like the idea of just sanding to a 180 and finishing, instead of 220, and then a 320 sanding between coats. Time is money, even if its just a project for myself.
@@bentswoodworking I have considered using a Danish oil type finish as well, as its simple and easy to repair when something does take a ding, which it inevitably will at some point. Im still a year out on this project, so Im just weighing options at this point. Im trying to avoid anything that will involve spraying as I dont have a good place to do that, or multiple processes. Thanks for the feedback!
@@CorwinBos Yeah I like Danish Oil too. It's just as easy as Rubio (maybe easier since it doesn't need to be mixed) and has a bit of lacquer in it to provide a bit more protection.
I love you bro, watching your videos are really helpful. Thank you.
Thank you!!!
What kind of pad did you use to apply to the sides? Was it a magic eraser or just a white poly pad?
It’s a white none abrasive pad.
how do you think this product would be for a staircase?
It’s a hardwood floor finish so I think it would be a fine option.
I hope festools tools last longer than their hats. 😂
Aren’t you supposed to sand up to 180 when using Rubio ?
Rubio recommends 120. However, I know plenty people that sand higher than that.
if 50 ml was too much how much would you use next time?
Probably 35
rubbing alcohol removes sharpie
Nice table!! Good work!! Love your content..🤜🏽
Thank you
I’m not sure why you seem fairly pleased with that amount of damage in a year. In sanding the whole table, isn’t that the worst case scenario for any finish? Or is it harder to refinish with other types of finish every year?
Much more difficult to spot finish other types (like spray finishes). Hardwax oils are amazing because you can sand down one spot and re-coat and it will look exactly the same. Rubio is an awesome finish. IMO he chose to sand down the whole top because he was already sanding down the edges due to the damage. It's not that much more work just to hit the whole top and re-do it entirely.
I don't get it either. Refinish every 18 months?
Exactly
I think you misunderstood the overall purpose of the video. There are definitely more durable finishes out there, no question about that. However, people always want to know how it holds up to heavy use items. Here, I wanted to show how mine has while showing how quick and simple it is to repair/refinish if needed. Film forming finishes would take a whole lot more work to do so if needed.
@@Meyerwoodworks sanding down in one spot is a recipe for wavy top. It’s all gotta come down to do it right.
Highlighter markers break up sharpie
Is this table's dimension and style the same as the "Dining Room" table plans you have for sale?
Yes. This is the same table
Three questions: How temperature sensitive is the required time for an 80% cure? What can I recommend as a cleaning or dusting product to the people who commission Monocoated work? If there is a Monocoat color blend that approximates the yellowing effect of traditional varnish or lacquer, what is it called? Thanks.
First question, I recommend reaching out to Rubio. Second, I just use a damp rag. That’s it, no other cleaners. Sometimes I will use rubios cleaner but rarely. Third, I’m not totally sure what you are asking.
@@bentswoodworking Lacquer and varnish have a yellow cast to them. Monocoat may come in a yellowish formulation or it may not.Maybe their plain material resembles the yellowish appearance of varnish and lacquer. I don't know and haven't noticed such a notation or name in their color chart. I've used water based finishes that wee described as being clear as water. They have a much different appearance than traditional lacquer and varnish. Can Monocoat be tinted with analine dyes like Transtint to alter their cured appearance? At a hundred bucks a pop I'd like not to have to order in another kit of Monocoat every time I do a project in another wood.
I think Rubio users have become cult like. As an established woodworker, why do Rubio users not put a second coat, Rubio poo pos this cause it’s so expensive. @woodwhisperer did a review of competing hard wax oils, they all did well, he applied two coats, and Natura, which performed better, is way less expensive
The ease of repair alone makes it worth it. great video
Thank you
Wondering if you’re ever used Osmo? Seems awfully similar to Rubio without the need to mix.
I’m a big of osmo. Never tried rubio.
I have never tried it.