Operation of a singer 12, new family machine, and a review of its design and manufacture.
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- Опубліковано 14 гру 2024
- The singer new family machine, aka the ‘12’ was the first real machine in mass production for the Singer livery, introduced in the late 1800’s it quickly became very popular, and was copied and improved on by many other manufacturers.
#sewingmachine #singer #sewinghacks #12 #newfamily
Isn’t that a awesome machine even if it didn’t sew it’s so beautiful to look at
Fantastically helpful. Thank uou
Engineering" Gauge blocks" invented around 1896 by Carl Edvard Johansson using his wife's sewing machine.
Watching you explain the transverse shuttle at 16:01 reminded me of the history when I had to use the blocks back in the 1980s while working in a Quality Inspection department.
Great video I love the simple effective engineering, I managed to get my 13x1 working in less then 2 hrs; it had not been used for over 40years
Thank you for posting a very clear video of the shuttle mechanism. Beautifully done.
Definitely some weaknesses in the design - but these old beauties just keep on working if they're given half a chance. What a spectacular find of the original manual et cetera! Thanks for showing this.
That is one nice Singer 12. The attachment box is original ,b ut for the NF and Medium machines, not the 12/13 so older. I don't know why that would be with the newer style machine, but very possible as they made those boxes by the thousands. They just didn't last. I have only seen one other bobbin winder directions and was only available from the Kilbowie factory
What a Treasure Trove! Lovely machine.
It's beautiful. I don't have one like that because I can't fit it my house. I keep hoping that you will show a machine with the sound pattern. Those lovely tools.... That machine must really be loved, who would have thought that "family machine" really did mean family? I wonder if the shuttle thread gets caught if the spool is too full?
Birdy
Birdy
If the bobbin is overfull, or part of wound thread bulges above the level of the bobbin's brass ends, it can rub inside the shuttle - intermittently - causing variations in tension and potentially jerking the bobbin inside the shuttle. It won't hurt the machine, but it's a nuisance for your sewing. Once enough thread has been used up that doesn't rub or jerk the stitches improve and if you don't know about this possible cause there can be a lot of head-scratching, and fiddling with the tension - trying to figure out what the problem is. :-)
(I remember one time I couldn't figure out why the machine was suddenly skipping stitches all over the show and generally had turned into a mess. I fussed with it for about an hour before I twigged I'd threaded the needle the wrong way (for a machine that threaded left-to-right)!)
I have a Singer 13k in a treadle from around 1883
Schmetz 28:05 needle works (the difference is that 13x1 is 1mm shaft diameter and the 28.05 is 1.51mm) it works but does get a bit close to the needle hole.
The 12x1 is a shorter needle than the 13x1
A friend of mine has a pack of 13x1 that he bought in recent years, he said he would try to remember where.
Thank you for that, I found the DBx1 Canu 14:25, was a fit for both the singer 12 and the Husqvarna Freja, I have another video coming out soon about that. I can’t find 28:05, did you mean 20:05?
Someone gave me an electronic copy of the instructions for the patent automatic bobbin winder a while ago that are just like yours here, except the original they scanned had some of the paper, and so some of the words, missing. As you showed it on screen I was able to pick up a most of those missing words. Now the only part I have missing is from the bottom "NOTE" section of the instructions. The words I've got for that are:
NOTE The tension plate B, anti-friction wheel E & its wire must be kept clean and free from oil & dust. Use the tension as strong as XXXXXXX will bear without breaking. If the tension is too loose it will not wind a perfect bobbin. Bobbin XXXXX be filled above the level of the brass ends. Oil the Winder only at the poinxxx XXXXX by X, X, G and F
Where I have XXXX or xxx above is where I have word(s) or letters missing. It looks like the first letter of the word after 'Use the tension as strong as' is a capital N - but I cannot make out from the context what that word must be, or whether it really is a N or something else because right against it is where the paper is missing. I presume it has something to do with the thread. I know the bobbin should not be filled above the level of the brass ends, but would love to know the actual wording they used. Presumably the last sentence was meant to say something along the lines of 'Oil the winder only at the points marked by H, C, G and F as on the diagram those letters have little 'arrows' pointing to something.
Did you happen to scan the instructions before you passed the machine on? Or do you think (if you don't have the machine anymore) whether the new owner would be kind enough to take a picture for you so you could share the missing words with us? If so, I'd very much appreciate knowing those missing words please. :-)
As for the rest of the wording - this is what it says, just to help anyone else who is looking for it:
TO ADJUST THE WINDER TO THE BALANCE WHEEL
Place a bobbin in with the slotted end on the Driver C and let the rubber ring press very lightly against the Balance Wheel, then screw the winder firmly to the machine. When the bobbin is taken out the rubber ring should clear the Balance Wheel, therefore the winder does not require moving after being once set.
TO THREAD THE WINDER
1ST. Place the bobbin in with the slot on Driver C, lead the thread from the reel, through the eyelet A then with the thread held in both hands, and the end thereof in the right hand, drop the portion now between the hands over, behind and under the tension plate hook B, now draw backwards and upwards with the right hand and the thread will slip under the tension plate.
2ND. Twist the thread two or three times round the driving spring hook C and break off the thread end, bring the smoother plate D forward against bobbin and begin winding.
Paraphrase.
NOTE The tension plate B, anti-friction wheel E & its wire must be kept clean and free from oil & dust. Use the tension as strong as thread will bear without breaking. If the tension is too loose it will not wind a perfect bobbin. Bobbin must not be filled above the level of the brass ends. Oil the Winder only at the point marked by X, X, G and F.
@@sailingtessbesssewfarnorth1746 I figured that must be what it means too, I'm just a bit of a nerd about these sorts of things and very much hoping - since in all this time I've only known of two copies of the actual instructions (one of them being yours here) - that you might still have access to what the precise words they used were - I even like to know which are underlined and capital letters etc!.
It was almost in frame but not quite so I couldn't see it even I advanced your vid 1 frame at a time through that section. You'd have got quite a chuckle, I reckon, if you'd seen how keenly I was looking, and the anticipation with which I clicked each new frame. I spent about 2 hours doing just that before I admitted defeat, crumbled, and asked you . :-) I was able to pick up the words 'Place a bobbin in with the slotted' and 'ring press very lightly against' and 'wheel E', as well as see how the thread goes through eyelet A and its path from there to the tension plate B - so that was awesome!
Sound is so low I can’t hear it at all I really was interested in your video. Well maybe I’ll catch it when you get it fixed
А нить со шпульки неправильно заправил в челноке...
Thank you for pointing that out.