@@ACDodd I was meaning to find out what I have now. There's lots of different ignition curves for MGBs and from what I read the late model cars were set up as much for emissions as performance so even a stock engine can benefit from a performance optimised curve. Maybe I'll just put a megajolt in so I can experiment.
@@ACDodd true 👍. Your videos are really informative. I had always seen distributors as a fixed thing that you messed with at your peril, so thanks for talking the time to share your knowledge!
Thanks for the advice today regarding my timing gun. I have returned it and ordered another one. I’ve been meaning to ask, would it be possible to order two springs from you if I were to specify my engine, carb and distributor? Obviously you’ve said that people want to buy springs from you et cetera but I’ll be happy to pay the ACDodd premium for your expertise in specifying, the right springs. I realise that the end stop may still require fixing, and I currently have no idea how far out my distributor is because the stupid timing gun doesn’t work… but could this work in theory? Thanks 👍
It’s a good ask, but it does not work like that the springs need to be ‘dialled in’ once fitted and this needs a dizzy machine. Hence I can only modify the dizzy for you.
@@ACDodd Fair enough, I’ll wait for my replacement timing gun (22nd October) and see how bad the advance curve on my dizzy is. Could you please tell me what the static timing and full advance should be? I’m sure I’ve seen it on one of your videos. I’ve a ‘94 Tahiti 1275 Hif38, 65dm4 NJC10038. I just want it to go well…like one on your tuning videos. If it’s knackered would it be a case of getting it refurbed by you or getting a replacement from you? Final question, my faulty innova timing light seemed to show me my dwell went from 9 to 22 degrees is that normal? Thanks, I defo want to get you down to do your ‘needle magic’ but want to get a couple of cars done at the same time, and want to rule out some potential issues beforehand. Thanks Mark
Timing is best optimised on a rolling road, every engine is slightly different, but a good start point is to aim for 30 degrees full advance. With 8 to 12 static and about 20’degrees at 2000rpm.
Hi AC, I finally got a timing light that works (innova) third time lucky 🤷♂️. Are the figures you gave in your answer ‘30 degrees full advance…etc” the figures without the vacuum advantage connected? Also I swear that periodically the static timing would jumped from 11 degrees to 19 degrees for a split second - is this just something glitching or an issue with my dizzy? Thanks for the help. Mark
@@mcmotors100people worry far too much about timing light glitches, it’s the lamp. Timing figures are without vacuum, vacuum typically adds another 10 to 15 degrees to the figures
Great video, I have a 3.5 rover v8 in my 76’ mgb with a Holley carby and extractors and ballast coil setup. I want to fit electronic ignition. What would you suggest I use? Love you videos
Thanks for the video. Thanks by people like you this information is shared for in the future👍
Top video again AC 👍
Great video again.
very informative thank you
Very informative - thanks very much. Tempted to get my MGB dizzy done.
Don’t be tempted, measure what you actually have first, this will then inform you if you actually could benefit from a recurved unit.
@@ACDodd I was meaning to find out what I have now. There's lots of different ignition curves for MGBs and from what I read the late model cars were set up as much for emissions as performance so even a stock engine can benefit from a performance optimised curve. Maybe I'll just put a megajolt in so I can experiment.
@@stuwhite2337 sometimes a lot east to experiment with clockwork
@@ACDodd true 👍. Your videos are really informative. I had always seen distributors as a fixed thing that you messed with at your peril, so thanks for talking the time to share your knowledge!
This is one of the best tuning tutorials I've seen. So informative and helpful. Would you be able to tune a mild modified 1098 austin a30
Yes
Very informative and thanks for setting up a 65d for me
No problem and glad you liked it
@ACDodd well it was a non runner.... not any more so thanks again
@@petrolhead998 no problem!
Your lathe runs nice and true on the 3 jaw chuck. I'd have to use the 4 jaw on my wobbly old turd to cut the seal diameter deeper.
Invest in a decent new 3 jaw Chuck, it will transform your machine
That’s very impressive fair doos 👍👌
Hi...how do I get the shaft out to get to the oil seal..Kindly advise
Answered via messenger
Thanks for the advice today regarding my timing gun. I have returned it and ordered another one.
I’ve been meaning to ask, would it be possible to order two springs from you if I were to specify my engine, carb and distributor?
Obviously you’ve said that people want to buy springs from you et cetera
but I’ll be happy to pay the ACDodd premium for your expertise in specifying, the right springs.
I realise that the end stop may still require fixing, and I currently have no idea how far out my distributor is because the stupid timing gun doesn’t work… but could this work in theory?
Thanks 👍
It’s a good ask, but it does not work like that the springs need to be ‘dialled in’ once fitted and this needs a dizzy machine. Hence I can only modify the dizzy for you.
@@ACDodd Fair enough, I’ll wait for my replacement timing gun (22nd October) and see how bad the advance curve on my dizzy is. Could you please tell me what the static timing and full advance should be? I’m sure I’ve seen it on one of your videos. I’ve a ‘94 Tahiti 1275 Hif38, 65dm4 NJC10038. I just want it to go well…like one on your tuning videos.
If it’s knackered would it be a case of getting it refurbed by you or getting a replacement from you?
Final question, my faulty innova timing light seemed to show me my dwell went from 9 to 22 degrees is that normal?
Thanks, I defo want to get you down to do your ‘needle magic’ but want to get a couple of cars done at the same time, and want to rule out some potential issues beforehand.
Thanks Mark
Timing is best optimised on a rolling road, every engine is slightly different, but a good start point is to aim for 30 degrees full advance. With 8 to 12 static and about 20’degrees at 2000rpm.
Hi AC, I finally got a timing light that works (innova) third time lucky 🤷♂️. Are the figures you gave in your answer ‘30 degrees full advance…etc” the figures without the vacuum advantage connected?
Also I swear that periodically the static timing would jumped from 11 degrees to 19 degrees for a split second - is this just something glitching or an issue with my dizzy? Thanks for the help. Mark
@@mcmotors100people worry far too much about timing light glitches, it’s the lamp. Timing figures are without vacuum, vacuum typically adds another 10 to 15 degrees to the figures
I still do not understand the difference from the primary sprung and secondary. Dont both weights come out together during rotation?
Both weights come out at the same time, but only one Spring controls both weights until
A certain point is reached where the secondary joins the party
Hi A.C very nterested in your dizzy mods, do you by any chance do similar improvements to an Mgb dizzy 1974 18V engine?
Yes I can modify most units.
Great video, I have a 3.5 rover v8 in my 76’ mgb with a Holley carby and extractors and ballast coil setup.
I want to fit electronic ignition.
What would you suggest I use?
Love you videos
A system which utilises variable dwell and low ohm coil.
@@ACDodd Lucas 38DLM8, big brother of the 65DM4
a recurved dizzy from AC is the best money you will spend on your car.
Thanks John they certainly make a big difference!