Tom. I can’t put into one little comment the inspiration you have sown since beginning my journey into the world of machining. I am 68 and have become a fair machinist. There have been others of course. But you, Sir, are a gem. Thanks so much Tom!!!
Today's Tip: Dental mirrors (about $5 at Walgreens) come in very handy in the shop when needing to peer into awkward areas.Thanks for doing this series, Tom. I have an interest in building tools and jigs for use in the shop that needs to be fed on a regular basis.
I don't understand why there are thumbs down for this video. Whoever gave a thumbs down should have to explain themselves. All I've read were positive comments. The shots were very close and showed great detail. You took the time to get this footage and it's appreciated. Thanks, Charlie in Chicago
I gave it a thumb down because the grinder is so noisy that I had to mute the sound. Don't understand why guys don't voiceover when they know a piece of equipment is exceedingly loud on the tape.
@@myquartknee hey bud your a knob if thats all you got to complain about you should have regular meetings with a shrink pal. simple turn down your volume to suit your little pansy desk job ears.
I can barely spell "grinding," but the thought of doing something like this myself gives me a serious RC60-on. Super excited to see the rest of this series. Thanks.
Like the ingenuity here!!! Sometimes you have to think smart!!! I have a small grinding shop and you would be surprised at the things we had to do back in the day to get the job done!! Now we have grinders that will do this job automatic. Good job!!!
That's a magnificent finish on that grind Tom. I'm not surprised the side-wheeling wasn't as good if the wheel hadn't been dressed, but the main grinding more than made up for that. An interesting project, thanks for sharing.
+Pete F Hey Pete, Yeah I forgot to do it when I had the spinner off. I went for it anyway but the results were as you saw, sub optimal. I dressed it off camera and it was much better. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
Interesting idea. I've always just used a 1/2" edge finder when I have to touch off a large OD part though. They aren't stepped so you don't have to worry about it shanking out. Just make sure you remember to compensate .250 instead of .100 when using the larger size!
I used a harig an awful lot in my career. I must say that set up with the cordless drill is genius. Further testimony that you are always thinking about how to do something better.
Hey Tom. It looked like you dressed your wheel flat across the bottom. I was always taught that when o.d. grinding like this you should dress a relief on the wheel like if you were side grinding so that you have very little surface area in contact with your part. I think you should invest in a spin roll. It makes setup and operation a breeze! Another great video!
oxtoolco I just mean using a drill to power something that wasn't meant to be powered with a drill I do it all the time I've actually Run my lead screw with it one time when I hit a gear broken just so I can finish your project
With the grinding video, and no remote mic, you might need to sheild the camera's built in mic from the grinder noise so that we can still hear you over the whine. Excellent project and demonstration! Great camera shots
On that first couple passes i saw the spin action stop and heard Tom go Hmmm. Thought to myself I would be figuring a automatic drive if this was me next.......Tom not only read my mind, but he did it in the future!
This is an awesome project Tom, I love the "Snufalleupagus Proboscis" edge-finder! Also great arm saving trick there with the cordless...what did we ever do without them? Aloha...Chuck
The bronze tear atop the screw is a nice idea, but i usually just snag a brass acorn nut from the store and tighten them when i have a screw like that.. But such clamps are a rarity and i ever needed only two brass acorns to contend with the situation... More often does one have a setscrew that is in a hole, which then gets a hole in it on the lathe for a brass tip... Which is practically what i do with 85% of setscrews i use, as they always retain some fine component, and the other 15% are actually used to retain door and window knobs, where its ok to leave the screw as is...
I can't wait to see how you will insert the spring in this edge finder... I tried to figure out on my own but it seems that the solution I have in mind requires stretching the spring pretty badly... Nice video btw !!
Hi mate. That was very interesting. I think you have to alter that little oven so it can be opened from both sides. It looked a little unwieldy like this. The drilling machine needs some thought control, that pinching of the trigger gets tidies after a while ; )
A generic question about the OD grinding. I noted you rotated the part against the direction of the wheel rotation, like conventional milling. If it was rotated with the wheel, like "climb" milling, does that affect the finish quality (and is that safe to do)?
Tom, I like the edge finder so far and just wanted to ask if you think the orientation you used is as good or better than grinding the face pointing straight up not relying on the wheel being straight 90 degrees? Probably it makes no difference at all and I am just yourardent fan.
Pretty neat Tom. Why don't you add a door handle coming off the left side for your left hand to operate it. That way you don't have to cross arm in front of the oven door.
I use a set of exhaust "tailpipe expanders" (google it)and they cover most of my needs when a quick and dirty drill power feed needs an expanding bushing. An old bike inner tube can be used as a sleeve to protect the inner surface if needed and you can turn the torque down a little on the drill if your worried about expanding something you shouldn't. Also works in my lathes spindle for indexing.They have enough meat that you can grind them smaller if needed. A set of three imported expanders can be had cheap enough and are handy additions to your toolbox imo. Sure are a lot cheaper nowadays then they were 30 years ago.
Tom: I see a mod to the "GRIND ALL #1" tooling for variable speed drive (and maybe a video on it)? Yes ? :) I like your quick solution with power drill motor... I was wondering how long it would take your arm to get tired of what you started out with... Nice Brian F.
could this be done in the lathe with a tool post grinder?? I do like to see the surface grinder uses, like to see the use of surface grinder to end sharpen a mill tool bit. A holder for sharpening mill bit ends came with my old Milwaukee Delta surface grinder. thanks ED
I would totally change that hex screw with a thumb screw or at least (because of eccentric weight issues, if that is a problem there) make a hex thumb key for it. The Allen keys always throw you off.
Can you upload a video where you can flip the drill direction so that we can grind in conventional style? Starting from digging up the iron ore to melt down to build the lathe that'll cut the left hand threaded tap for the left handed threaded pipe thread and include video editing as well as commentary? Thanks if so
@@jamiebuckley1769 this comment is old but I believe he is talking about the myford cylindrical grinder which I've seen in the background of a few videos.
Tom I have a question is it worth buying a great set of vinier calipers that measure ok on pay out big bucks to do the same job, I have a pair of Mitutoyo on sale I can buy but I got a $30 set that are ok, whats your thoughts I only do things for myself at the moment.
The spin jig is mounted on a plate. is the plate held by the magnet? Is there a step in the plate for a reason? I have wondered how these type of spin jigs were used on a narrow surface grinder. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
+1DIYGuy Hi Guy, Its the base off the old Suburban sine vise I traded the yougins for. Its the only long ground flat plate I had handy. Harig sells one but they are a little pricey. I will probably make one myself at some point. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
did you get much taper on it? considering you could not get the wheel to go all the way past the end of the part ? or is the part so small that it doesn't really matter ?
Not lazy. SMRT! I've noticed any time I did anything like this when I was hand-spinning something, that any time I paused a small flat is created. You have to keep the thing moving. The drill is a good idea. A dedicated motor would be better.
Aren't you getting any measuring problems with the heat induced in the part when grinding, cause whatever I do need a super precise part I let the temp get to room temp before taking the final cut and measuring...? Works for lathe and grinding....
+pierre beaudry When taking such a small amount of material off per pass, there's really not going to be very much heat build up at all, especially with a newly dressed wheel. There's also a slight draft from the spinning wheel which may contribute slightly to a cooling effect, but again, I'd say the initial heat build up is negligible.
ARCustomKnives When you aim tenths of thousand, a few degrees will affect the results. This is why I'll use coolant mainly if I want to measure quickly after a pass... Was just wondering how Tom was proceeding and what was the final aim for tolerance.. ;)
+oxtoolco Get crackin on the Myford Tom! :-) Love to see it setup, tuned and used. I know...only so much time in the day! Keep up the great work and videos!
should have put a tachometer on the improvised power feed to keep the rotation consistent. definitely unnecessary ,but not overly difficult. allows for repeatable results
Tom, you didn't say anything about alignment. An old timer many years ago told me when doing this kind of cylindrical work he always used a 3 degree offset. Something about finish quality concentricity??
Would A2 or D2 Tool Steels be a good material selection? I have worked with a ton of Nifty Tool Makers and High Level Machinists. One thing in common they always mention making some kind of custom Edge Finder. Either an extra long or yes the " Pinocchio ". The great thing about having a " Pinocchio " edge finder is that you will know when it picks up an edge incorrectly. It's only set back is that you will eventually run out of working Z envelope after years of use.
i did that same trick milling out a large radius with the rotary table on the mill..only i used the snap on pneumatic drill. couldnt stop giggling and the boss said i was cheating.
Tom, Damn! That grinder motor sure makes a racket! For a name, how about the Lipton Longey? Does your wife know that you gave your grinder a fine dress? I didn't know you were into women's clothing. (LOL) ... Thanks for the video. It looks like a great series. Don Bailey would be proud! Have a good one! Dave
+cbeaulac Hey Beau, Not sure what quench they use for gage blocks. They are made of 52100 steel so it would be air or oil most likely. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
soundiscomforting It does seem like it but, it's the rate at which the wheel degrades. It needs to be maintained & dressed with a diamond (the wheel), when it wears or wears to one side. The diamond basically cuts it straight again & removes the excess material on the wheel that may be left on one side, if it wore lopsided. For a few passes like this after dressing, it should be fine at the decay rate. You would then dress it again, when you felt it necessary for something else.
+Stephen Hodge Hi Stephen, On center. Stepover is light so not much heat to deal with. I checked it a few times then stopped. All the vee block spinning around is like a darn fan. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
+snargleflarg Hi Snarlge, With a hardness tester..... Sorry I couldn't resist. I used a Rockwell hardness tester at a friends shop to test it in a couple places. I can't remember what I got without looking at my notes. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
there are a few different ways, the easiest way to test quickly is a set of files with known hardness. You use harder and harder files till a mark is made.
MattsMotorz If you need to know the exact hardness a diamond tip is pressed the part with an exact force and the size of the indentation is measured. If you only need to know within 5 or 10 points or so the files are easier.
Hi Drew, The contact between the pliers and part is not a good thermal path. I am only holding the part for a few seconds to quench it so the delta T is small. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
where did you get that cute little heat treat furnace ? when you were grinding it appeared that the part was positioned slightly ahead of the bottom center of the wheel. or was that just an optical illusion ?
+larry sperling The part should be slightly left of the center of the wheel. That is to keep the part from getting sucked under the wheel like it would if the part was on the right side of the wheel which could be very bad.
thanks for your reply austin. i have a surface grinder but i use a tool post grinder for round work. does working off center have much effect on the accuracy of the feed dial?
+Austin Washburn I'm not sure I follow you. In this situation, there are two diameters in contact at a common tangent point, no? I don't see how the workpiece can be ahead or behind the "cutter" centerline like it can be on a lathe. +oxtoolco
thomas i'm probably overthinking this, but it would seem to me that by grinding away from the vertical axis of the wheel there would be a change in the x axis as you apply downfeed in the z axis.so i guess what i'm asking is. if your grinding off center will one thousandth on the downfeed equal one thousandth material removed?
+larry sperling This is a common misconception of surface grinding. The diameter of the wheel does gradually get smaller, obviously, but not necessarily in a way that you might think. You're not actually grinding across the full face of the wheel with each pass, but just a small cross section, starting at the leading edge, and gradually moving to the opposite side. IOW, on a .5" wide wheel, you're only cutting with about .050-.100" of it during any given pass. I think Tom briefly addressed this in a recent grinding Q&A.That said, for a part as small as this edge finder, the wear of the wheel is going to be negligible anyway, and is not really an issue.
While holding the hot part in the plyers and dipping it into the oil does this mean that the oil does not reach the parts that the plyers are holding it and thus creating a weak spot in the part??
+Rob Gerrits The heat is transferred to the oil only over the surface, so the inner material is cooling down slower as the surface. The small irregularity created by the pliers are not very big in size and also fade with depth. The hardening process mostly relies on quick cooling, the spots under the pliers are propably less critical than thicker parts of material, where the heat can't get out as quickly. Also, the part is tempered afterwards, so if there were irregularities in the hardness, they would smoothen out then.
+Klaufmann Thank you for your answer..But I do not want to take it to the extreem. But when tightining a hardend bolt in this way it will break at the point wich is holded by the pliers at the moment of hardening.. We use this metode here in Holland to make bolts when screwed in tight will break of and then will be unable to remove. Only a few quare millimeter of unhardend steel is enough to break the bound.at maximum torque.
Ok, that might be, my answer was just an educated guess from my end. However, I think an edgefinder will never be twisted with such high torque so that would matter. It's propably just hardened so that it doesn't wear as fast.
+Klaufmann Of course you are right..Extreems do not come into this place.Even a unhardend edgefinder will function just as well. What is wear if you just use it for a few seconds? I( Think that Oxtool sometimes overdus it a bit.. But that is my personal opinion. But it is nice to see a diiferent approach to a work result.
I mean wear in the sense of it laying around, maybe dropping on the floor or being in a drawer with lots of other stuff, constantly pushed around. A hardened tool would block off most the damages. Yes, he really is a perfectionist in some ways, but why not make it as good as you can?
Tom. I can’t put into one little comment the inspiration you have sown since beginning my journey into the world of machining. I am 68 and have become a fair machinist. There have been others of course. But you, Sir, are a gem. Thanks so much Tom!!!
Great video as usual. A surface grinder is a very nice tool to have. Second best is to have a good friend who has one.
Today's Tip: Dental mirrors (about $5 at Walgreens) come in very handy in the shop when needing to peer into awkward areas.Thanks for doing this series, Tom. I have an interest in building tools and jigs for use in the shop that needs to be fed on a regular basis.
Don't have a surface grinder or friend with one, but still gain a wealth of tips and tricks when watching your stuff. Thanks for your generousity.
This will be great, thanks for sharing :)
I don't understand why there are thumbs down for this video. Whoever gave a thumbs down should have to explain themselves. All I've read were positive comments.
The shots were very close and showed great detail. You took the time to get this footage and it's appreciated.
Thanks,
Charlie in Chicago
I gave it a thumb down because the grinder is so noisy that I had to mute the sound. Don't understand why guys don't voiceover when they know a piece of equipment is exceedingly loud on the tape.
@@myquartknee hey bud your a knob if thats all you got to complain about you should have regular meetings with a shrink pal. simple turn down your volume to suit your little pansy desk job ears.
I can barely spell "grinding," but the thought of doing something like this myself gives me a serious RC60-on. Super excited to see the rest of this series. Thanks.
Just finished building a heat treat oven to finish this. Thanks so much Tom!! Good luck in the new digs.
Like the ingenuity here!!! Sometimes you have to think smart!!! I have a small grinding shop and you would be surprised at the things we had to do back in the day to get the job done!! Now we have grinders that will do this job automatic. Good job!!!
Thanks for the video Tom
Great tip with the tapered fitting for the expanding mandrel, that could come in handy one day!
Best regards from Denmark
Tom,
Extremely interesting I love the addition of the drill. What great precision grinding especially on such small od's.
Thanks for the video's,
Jeff
Love the macro close-up shots. Video really shines in close-up. Enjoyable series. Nice idea with the pipe thread expansion technique.
Beautiful stuff, Tom. Always look forward to your videos.
awesome project Tom, looking forward to the next installment.
I'm absolutelly mind-bended by your videos, and the love and passion you put in your works
Laziness Is the mother of most great ideas. Thanks for the great vids Tom. :-)
The drill and bushing trick made u genius status!
Awesome! Looking forward to the rest of the series!
I can't even find time to WATCH all your videos tom. You're Awesome for making time to actually create these videos. Thanks.
+Morgan Oliff Hey Morgan,
I'd be worried you weren't in the shop enough if you had time to watch all the videos. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Nice project again, Tom. I allways wondered if edgefinders could be made by yourself. looking forward to the result. cheers.
excellent application of the surface grinder. looking forward to the follow up.
Nice work, Tom, as usual...
Tom, The split bushing pipe thread gizmo; What a cool trick!!
Regards,
Eric
great quick grinding video, the set up and camera work was cool to see.
Great video/build, will be fun to follow
Going to be a fun series to watch.
Not quite following the concept of how it works, but I still find it fascinating and look forward to the series.
love that finish
That's a magnificent finish on that grind Tom. I'm not surprised the side-wheeling wasn't as good if the wheel hadn't been dressed, but the main grinding more than made up for that. An interesting project, thanks for sharing.
+Pete F Hey Pete,
Yeah I forgot to do it when I had the spinner off. I went for it anyway but the results were as you saw, sub optimal. I dressed it off camera and it was much better. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Excellent as usual Tom. It's topics like this, Stan's, and Suburban Tools videos that aren't helping with my lust for a surface grinder.
Interesting idea. I've always just used a 1/2" edge finder when I have to touch off a large OD part though.
They aren't stepped so you don't have to worry about it shanking out.
Just make sure you remember to compensate .250 instead of .100 when using the larger size!
I used a harig an awful lot in my career. I must say that set up with the cordless drill is genius. Further testimony that you are always thinking about how to do something better.
18:40 - that's a heavenly camera angle there!
Great idea with that delran split bushing!
+Nocturnal036 Hi Noc,
Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Great idea using a surface grinder to do a round part
Hey Tom.
It looked like you dressed your wheel flat across the bottom. I was always taught that when o.d. grinding like this you should dress a relief on the wheel like if you were side grinding so that you have very little surface area in contact with your part. I think you should invest in a spin roll. It makes setup and operation a breeze! Another great video!
So cool!
nice job ,good video ,keep up good work...
Nice work Tom. Now you need to pick up an old DedTru Model C for your surface grinder. It makes this stuff super easy. Just another tool to buy. ;)
Nice photography.
Great project. In one of the future episodes would you go over the holding fixture with the V block? Looks like elaborate Spindexer. Thanks
im happy to see the experts do the drill trick on this type of thing.
+Clown Whisper Uh oh. I don't know what the drill trick is. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
oxtoolco I just mean using a drill to power something that wasn't meant to be powered with a drill I do it all the time I've actually Run my lead screw with it one time when I hit a gear broken just so I can finish your project
@oxtoolco Thank you for all of your contributions and sharing your skills and knowledge. Hope you are well.
Good job Tom, cranking the handle got old real fast, didn't it. Power tool to the rescue.
With the grinding video, and no remote mic, you might need to sheild the camera's built in mic from the grinder noise so that we can still hear you over the whine. Excellent project and demonstration! Great camera shots
On that first couple passes i saw the spin action stop and heard Tom go Hmmm. Thought to myself I would be figuring a automatic drive if this was me next.......Tom not only read my mind, but he did it in the future!
I am really interested in how are you going to lape it and mantain squareness with the sank.
Awesomesauce, btw. ^^
This is an awesome project Tom, I love the "Snufalleupagus Proboscis" edge-finder! Also great arm saving trick there with the cordless...what did we ever do without them?
Aloha...Chuck
The bronze tear atop the screw is a nice idea, but i usually just snag a brass acorn nut from the store and tighten them when i have a screw like that.. But such clamps are a rarity and i ever needed only two brass acorns to contend with the situation... More often does one have a setscrew that is in a hole, which then gets a hole in it on the lathe for a brass tip... Which is practically what i do with 85% of setscrews i use, as they always retain some fine component, and the other 15% are actually used to retain door and window knobs, where its ok to leave the screw as is...
I can't wait to see how you will insert the spring in this edge finder... I tried to figure out on my own but it seems that the solution I have in mind requires stretching the spring pretty badly... Nice video btw !!
+Ben's things & thoughts Hi Ben,
Its not too bad. It takes a clamp and a little fiddling. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Hi mate. That was very interesting. I think you have to alter that little oven so it can be opened from both sides. It looked a little unwieldy like this. The drilling machine needs some thought control, that pinching of the trigger gets tidies after a while ; )
A generic question about the OD grinding. I noted you rotated the part against the direction of the wheel rotation, like conventional milling. If it was rotated with the wheel, like "climb" milling, does that affect the finish quality (and is that safe to do)?
Sorry to question and i am sure you may cover this but what are you connecting the 2 pieces together with? Spring of some sort i am just guessing...
Tom, I like the edge finder so far and just wanted to ask if you think the orientation you used is as good or better than grinding the face pointing straight up not relying on the wheel being straight 90 degrees? Probably it makes no difference at all and I am just yourardent fan.
Do you have to let the machine run for a while before starting to let the temp stabilize?
Pretty neat Tom. Why don't you add a door handle coming off the left side for your left hand to operate it. That way you don't have to cross arm in front of the oven door.
I use a set of exhaust "tailpipe expanders" (google it)and they cover most of my needs when a quick and dirty drill power feed needs an expanding bushing. An old bike inner tube can be used as a sleeve to protect the inner surface if needed and you can turn the torque down a little on the drill if your worried about expanding something you shouldn't. Also works in my lathes spindle for indexing.They have enough meat that you can grind them smaller if needed. A set of three imported expanders can be had cheap enough and are handy additions to your toolbox imo. Sure are a lot cheaper nowadays then they were 30 years ago.
Tom: I see a mod to the "GRIND ALL #1" tooling for variable speed drive (and maybe a video on it)? Yes ? :) I like your quick solution with power drill motor... I was wondering how long it would take your arm to get tired of what you started out with... Nice Brian F.
could this be done in the lathe with a tool post grinder?? I do like to see the surface grinder uses, like to see the use of surface grinder to end sharpen a mill tool bit. A holder for sharpening mill bit ends came with my old Milwaukee Delta surface grinder. thanks ED
I would totally change that hex screw with a thumb screw or at least (because of eccentric weight issues, if that is a problem there) make a hex thumb key for it. The Allen keys always throw you off.
tom interesting video ,looking for P.2 .
Bad spindle bearing in your grinding shaft?
I just bought the flex bar edge finder I saw in one of your other vids, would I ever have the opportunity to buy one of your edge finders?
Great video Tom. But.. Why aren't you working on the Baby Bullet:)....
Can you upload a video where you can flip the drill direction so that we can grind in conventional style? Starting from digging up the iron ore to melt down to build the lathe that'll cut the left hand threaded tap for the left handed threaded pipe thread and include video editing as well as commentary? Thanks if so
If you use a hose clamp on trigger of the drill you can do speed adjustments with a screwdriver.
Hi MIke,
I like it! Variable speed control. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
+oxtoolco I saw that trick on Welding tips and tricks. Thanks goes to Jody
Tom I think a great video would be James Kilroy and You to see who can do a better case hardening.
Hi Tom,
I was surprised to see you using the surface grinder for this. Is the Myford not up and running?
It would be much easier and faster.
Thanks
you would not get the same precision on doing this on the lathe and i think you understand that now.
@@jamiebuckley1769 this comment is old but I believe he is talking about the myford cylindrical grinder which I've seen in the background of a few videos.
Tom I have a question is it worth buying a great set of vinier calipers that measure ok on pay out big bucks to do the same job, I have a pair of Mitutoyo on sale I can buy but I got a $30 set that are ok, whats your thoughts I only do things for myself at the moment.
The spin jig is mounted on a plate. is the plate held by the magnet? Is there a step in the plate for a reason? I have wondered how these type of spin jigs were used on a narrow surface grinder. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
+1DIYGuy Hi Guy,
Its the base off the old Suburban sine vise I traded the yougins for. Its the only long ground flat plate I had handy. Harig sells one but they are a little pricey. I will probably make one myself at some point. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Lipton's proboscicized telemeter apparatus?
did you get much taper on it? considering you could not get the wheel to go all the way past the end of the part ? or is the part so small that it doesn't really matter ?
Not lazy. SMRT!
I've noticed any time I did anything like this when I was hand-spinning something, that any time I paused a small flat is created. You have to keep the thing moving.
The drill is a good idea. A dedicated motor would be better.
do you need to get that far down a cylinder to edge find. i usally just go as deep as possible..........i guess that limited to about 6 inch diam. :)
Aren't you getting any measuring problems with the heat induced in the part when grinding, cause whatever I do need a super precise part I let the temp get to room temp before taking the final cut and measuring...? Works for lathe and grinding....
+pierre beaudry When taking such a small amount of material off per pass, there's really not going to be very much heat build up at all, especially with a newly dressed wheel. There's also a slight draft from the spinning wheel which may contribute slightly to a cooling effect, but again, I'd say the initial heat build up is negligible.
ARCustomKnives
When you aim tenths of thousand, a few degrees will affect the results. This is why I'll use coolant mainly if I want to measure quickly after a pass... Was just wondering how Tom was proceeding and what was the final aim for tolerance.. ;)
Tom
Great video but why did you not use the Myford grinder to do the job with
Ps they where made five miles from where I live until the sold up
+Stuart Hardy Hi Stuart,
Have not set up the Myford yet. This would be a good project for that machine as well. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
+oxtoolco Get crackin on the Myford Tom! :-) Love to see it setup, tuned and used. I know...only so much time in the day! Keep up the great work and videos!
should have put a tachometer on the improvised power feed to keep the rotation consistent. definitely unnecessary ,but not overly difficult. allows for repeatable results
Hi Tom, could you please explain why you hold the part in a vee block rather than a collet ?
He might not have a collet hence why he's not using a chuck.
Tom, you didn't say anything about alignment. An old timer many years ago told me when doing this kind of cylindrical work he always used a 3 degree offset. Something about finish quality concentricity??
Would A2 or D2 Tool Steels be a good material selection? I have worked with a ton of Nifty Tool Makers and High Level Machinists. One thing in common they always mention making some kind of custom Edge Finder. Either an extra long or yes the " Pinocchio ". The great thing about having a " Pinocchio " edge finder is that you will know when it picks up an edge incorrectly. It's only set back is that you will eventually run out of working Z envelope after years of use.
+Chris Rokz Hi Chris,
A2 or D2 would be good choices as well. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
i did that same trick milling out a large radius with the rotary table on the mill..only i used the snap on pneumatic drill. couldnt stop giggling and the boss said i was cheating.
Intersting, what about the area where the plier jaws were in contact? would it be softer?
Hummingbird?
+stevedotrsa Like that name! The entire piece is the same hardness. Didn't want to test it in any areas that would not be ground.
Cheers,
Tom
Tom,
Damn! That grinder motor sure makes a racket! For a name, how about the Lipton Longey? Does your wife know that you gave your grinder a fine dress? I didn't know you were into women's clothing. (LOL) ... Thanks for the video. It looks like a great series. Don Bailey would be proud!
Have a good one!
Dave
Swarf Rat
Aaa
please use Celsius as well.
Did something happen to the 'Big Jump' edge-finder ?
+Andrew G. Whitaker Hi Andrew,
Still have it. Just felt like making one with a long beak. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
they oil quench steel gauge blocks?
+cbeaulac Hey Beau,
Not sure what quench they use for gage blocks. They are made of 52100 steel so it would be air or oil most likely. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
I am interested in the furnace, can you heat treat M2 Steel?
Hi Carlos,
This particular furnace does not get hot enough to do high speed steels. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
But finding an edge is easy, when things fall off....you've found the edge
Can someone please explain why grinders like this aren't inaccurate, since the material (thus height) is reduced while grinding? Thanks! :)
soundiscomforting It does seem like it but, it's the rate at which the wheel degrades. It needs to be maintained & dressed with a diamond (the wheel), when it wears or wears to one side. The diamond basically cuts it straight again & removes the excess material on the wheel that may be left on one side, if it wore lopsided. For a few passes like this after dressing, it should be fine at the decay rate. You would then dress it again, when you felt it necessary for something else.
Are you in front of part center or behind, in front is not good! Plus no means of cooling?
+Stephen Hodge Hi Stephen,
On center. Stepover is light so not much heat to deal with. I checked it a few times then stopped. All the vee block spinning around is like a darn fan. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
How do you determine hardness?
+snargleflarg Hi Snarlge,
With a hardness tester..... Sorry I couldn't resist. I used a Rockwell hardness tester at a friends shop to test it in a couple places. I can't remember what I got without looking at my notes. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
How do you check the rockwell hardness?
hardness tester
there are a few different ways, the easiest way to test quickly is a set of files with known hardness. You use harder and harder files till a mark is made.
That makes sense! Thanks!
MattsMotorz If you need to know the exact hardness a diamond tip is pressed the part with an exact force and the size of the indentation is measured. If you only need to know within 5 or 10 points or so the files are easier.
i.e. a hardness tester
How did you clean the parts after hardening?
Hi Yuriy,
I glass bead blasted the parts to remove the scale. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Tom, can you make a video about this?
Thanks for answer.
Call that edge finder the hummingbird.
Crank up the volume before watching lol!!! Eargasm!
what about your pliers sinking heat?
Hi Drew,
The contact between the pliers and part is not a good thermal path. I am only holding the part for a few seconds to quench it so the delta T is small. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Lazyness is the mother of all inventions !-)
I hate to contribute to entropy any more than I have to. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
where did you get that cute little heat treat furnace ? when you were grinding it appeared that the part was positioned slightly ahead of the bottom center of the wheel. or was that just an optical illusion ?
+larry sperling The part should be slightly left of the center of the wheel. That is to keep the part from getting sucked under the wheel like it would if the part was on the right side of the wheel which could be very bad.
thanks for your reply austin. i have a surface grinder but i use a tool post grinder for round work. does working off center have much effect on the accuracy of the feed dial?
+Austin Washburn I'm not sure I follow you. In this situation, there are two diameters in contact at a common tangent point, no? I don't see how the workpiece can be ahead or behind the "cutter" centerline like it can be on a lathe. +oxtoolco
thomas i'm probably overthinking this, but it would seem to me that by grinding away from the vertical axis of the wheel there would be a change in the x axis as you apply downfeed in the z axis.so i guess what i'm asking is. if your grinding off center will one thousandth on the downfeed equal one thousandth material removed?
+larry sperling This is a common misconception of surface grinding. The diameter of the wheel does gradually get smaller, obviously, but not necessarily in a way that you might think. You're not actually grinding across the full face of the wheel with each pass, but just a small cross section, starting at the leading edge, and gradually moving to the opposite side. IOW, on a .5" wide wheel, you're only cutting with about .050-.100" of it during any given pass. I think Tom briefly addressed this in a recent grinding Q&A.That said, for a part as small as this edge finder, the wear of the wheel is going to be negligible anyway, and is not really an issue.
That's not lazy Tom. You know the saying..."work smart..not hard"
While holding the hot part in the plyers and dipping it into the oil does this mean that the oil does not reach the parts that the plyers are holding it and thus creating a weak spot in the part??
+Rob Gerrits The heat is transferred to the oil only over the surface, so the inner material is cooling down slower as the surface. The small irregularity created by the pliers are not very big in size and also fade with depth. The hardening process mostly relies on quick cooling, the spots under the pliers are propably less critical than thicker parts of material, where the heat can't get out as quickly. Also, the part is tempered afterwards, so if there were irregularities in the hardness, they would smoothen out then.
+Klaufmann Thank you for your answer..But I do not want to take it to the extreem. But when tightining a hardend bolt in this way it will break at the point wich is holded by the pliers at the moment of hardening.. We use this metode here in Holland to make bolts when screwed in tight will break of and then will be unable to remove.
Only a few quare millimeter of unhardend steel is enough to break the bound.at maximum torque.
Ok, that might be, my answer was just an educated guess from my end. However, I think an edgefinder will never be twisted with such high torque so that would matter. It's propably just hardened so that it doesn't wear as fast.
+Klaufmann Of course you are right..Extreems do not come into this place.Even a unhardend edgefinder will function just as well. What is wear if you just use it for a few seconds? I( Think that Oxtool sometimes overdus it a bit.. But that is my personal opinion. But it is nice to see a diiferent approach to a work result.
I mean wear in the sense of it laying around, maybe dropping on the floor or being in a drawer with lots of other stuff, constantly pushed around. A hardened tool would block off most the damages.
Yes, he really is a perfectionist in some ways, but why not make it as good as you can?