Відео

Does the yellow spring option you mentioned for a modified 1275 only apply to an HIF44, or to twins also? 1.25s. Bigger valves, HT cam, LCB and about the 9.5/1.

Not boring at all! Very informative! @Adrian, I wish you sorted the oils according to viscosity (say at room temperature) and let us know which is thinnest and which the thickest. In that respect I am a bit thick too, that’s why I never really grasp this.

Thin the oil in the dash pot

Morning guys I am on the way into work 🫣

ua-cam.com/users/shorts8CvguVPuSG0?si=kwbYFGMpc5I59Vr5

Another great q&a but unfortunately missed it live. Is there anything I can do to reduce standoff on a hs4 carb ie. Rampipes or can it be tuned out and if so by what component? Thanks and happy new year

Hi AC at what point in KOHMS of resistance would you start considering replacing the HT leads. Thank you

Fascinating as always. 👍

Cool work. That blue mini is now up on the Ukminis auction website. Lovely car.

Maybe a silly question, but have you ever tried the LG INR18650 MJ1 3500mAh (10A) Cells to see how they compare? They would be another 30% more capacity than the 25r original and can output more as well?

I really enjoy your videos and was especially mind blown by the info about spark plug numbers and them not being hotter enough and the massive difference it made to the running. Also the spring and damper having big implications was a huge learning curve too. I’ve had old mini’s in my youth and am running a HIF 44 from those days on a Samurai with a 1600 vitara engine so all the advice I’ve gleaned from you so far is real helpful. Lastly I love the reaction from your customers after the fix, so cool.

Never bored with your videos and I greatly appreciate the info you share !

Boring?…..Not at all!! This video is getting the amateurs like me on another level. The last two years i did a lot things to my mini which had different effects. Changing springs , changing oil, cleaning carbs, play with air filters and also changing needles. Everything i did had an effect. Not all for the better. This video gives me another Impressionen about things i can or maybe Need to do to get closer to how i would like to have MY Mini Thank you and alle the best from your German fan. Markus

I think you're really on to something with this series AC. While it's not a series to watch for fun and frolics, I see it as a video reference library which will prove useful for decades to come. I haven't seen it being shared on mini-centric Facebook pages, would you be happy for us to do it?

Hi AC. Question re your new HIF44. Is there an option to use a damper with a lower black top, as I’m in an MG Midget and need more clearance under the bonnet? Many thanks.

Boring? This is the sort of stuff I get out of bed for 😁 So informative and really interesting. Quick question AC, a friend and I are trying to set a good baseline on his twin H1 carbs on and old Riley special. He has an AFR guage fitted so we can monitor the fuelling. He noticed that the pistons were fluttering and my thinking was that may have something to do with the spring tension. Problem is they don't have any fitted and his SU catalogue says they are not required, however I'm not sure that this is correct and if it were my car I'd be playing about with some springs. Thoughts? Many thanks AC

I am surprised your views are down on this series. I have found it thoroughly entertaining and informative. I think you’ve forgotten more about these carbs and engines than I will ever know, but anything you’re willing to share, I will happily absorb. Thank you A.C.

Now i know what lean means

Great Video , Very helpful ! Please keep them coming.

Thanks for a very interesting and useful video series👍

I'm finding this tutorial fascinating too, As I've said previously, I thought I knew SU carbs, but this taking it to a new level. If I was 40 years younger , I'd probably go further than You Tube videos and earn some money from it!

Multi grade oil seems a good idea once we know typical warm/hot engine dashpot oil temperatures.

Brilliant video. First one of yours i have watched. I have a triple carb healey, twin carb healey and an MGA with one and three quarter HS6 carbs fitted. Learned so much from this video. Many thanks.

Good stuff AC. Ported vacuum I 'get'. You don't appear to fit vacuum delay valves, they *seem* like a cheap no-brainer on a road-car. I'm guessing you don't like them. Why?

I have an HIF38 carb that for some reason does not work right. This is to the point where the car won't start, I have put a camera at the front of the carb to see if the piston within the bell housing is moving and there is no movement of the piston. I have checked the spark plugs to see if the engine is flooded at all and the plugs are dry. What do you think could be wrong?

Wet coils use oil in it to Desipate heat towards the shell. This is good featture to keep the coil cool and maintain effencey unlike dry coils.

AC, you do the first proper, proper full-depth - how & why - no BS info on these. Minded to the BS seen on forums I suspect views/likes on this will be a slow-burn. A Wideband O2 is near a must. Q: I asked near this Q before. If oil is too thin wideband will show weak on foot-down, and then settle. If the spring is too light it will also go weak, and stay weak. How via the gauge can we see if the piston is flying to the top (spring too weak) which is difficult to see under load, or needle too weak. It'd be too easy to be on Mintylamb for a needle when it's a heavier spring wanted or vice versa? Because all is inter-related, it’s easy to chase your own tail. I reckon you’ve one more vid in this ‘How an SU works, series to cover the wrong conclusions we can come to.

I really appreciate the time you put into sharing your valuable knowledge AC thanks 🙏

I like to use motorcycle fork oil as it is available in different single grades and is designed to work in a dampening situation. Low foaming, low detergent (no filter), single grade etc. Thanks for being so informative. I have learned so much from you. My Moke is just purring. People are surprised how well a standard Moke can run.

Very informative. Shows how much easier it is to tune transient performance with fuel injection though

Very much appreciate these videos, other channels I watch have also reported recent drops in views, not sure what's going on? Hope you continue to share your knowledge, many thanks from Australia 👍

Love the series definitely not boring, absolute gold. I've learnt so much. I've been waiting for the next video to be uploaded. Please keep up the content as there are a lot of people that very much appreciate it.

thanks AC. I was impressed at the simplicity of the SU when I first saw a pair on an MGA a very long time ago. I have worked with them in an amateur capacity over the years on Volvos, MGs, TRs and Minis and have muddled through. But after this series, I at last have a much better understanding of how they work. I wish it were available in 1975. John in Manitoba.

I've enjoyed seeing the video series about the SU carb and it's design, operation and tuning. I always thought that the HIF type was a better carb for a road car engine than Webber DCOE's etc. But if I'm honest your videos have only gone to show me just how complicated the SU carb is in operation and how to tune it to any specific application. I can only assume it's even harder to dial in for a forced induction engine. To be honest it's just made me think that spending the extra ££££ to install EFI and a mapped 3D ignition would be worth it on any performance engine, and make setting up for anyone with the correct knowledge at a rolling road much easier and quicker than trying to dial in an SU?

not boring , it's great info well worth watching the series

Great video

Does the damper effect change when the oil is warmed by the engine and the velocity changes?

just so informative and iam not bored because I am trying to tune my triple su carbies on my 6 cylinder holden motor in Australia

Well done AC. Not boring! Clarifies what I'd understood watching all your vids.Liked & sub'ed

at what point do you know your dash pot and piston need replacing?

Keep up this kind of content! Love the tech!

I’m not bored at all AC. Fascinating stuff. I’m impressed that you can do such long takes to camera and explain a highly complex subject so eloquently.

DId SU ever specify what the depression at the jet was in designing, for fuel flow? Obviously venturi size and engine speed are all important. And fifty other things. From a tuning perspective, we can change high speed boosters on a Holley for lower or higher signal response. 14"/mercury for 11's, to get an earlier fuel flow at a given rpm.

This kind of video's aren't boring to me, in fact they are interesting as I learn every time more👍

Thanks for making these in depth videos AC! I will watch as many as you want to make 😁

Many thanks for a great video. Are they two type of dampers? The cap ends. I have a couple of spare straight ones but also one with like a teardrop end .

Do you mind sharing what seller did you buy it from.

Hi A.C.! Many thanks for sharing this Video with us.. Although I'm fairly familiar with the workings of the SU Carburetor, I'm always learning new things from your Videos. Thank you 👍

Another good video AC. Just to add another dimension towards understanding oils a little better, and also choosing the right grade of damper oil too. As many will know the technical term for how ‘thick or thin’ and oil is is known as the viscosity. However, what many may not understand is that you can have two oils (Monograde, Multigrade or other) with the same viscosity grading, however with a different Viscosity Index (known as the VI). So what the hell does VI mean? Well it is basically the rate of viscosity change due to temperature change. So for instance you could have two oils both of an ISO 68 grade (SAE20 approx) however both oils could have a very different Viscosity Index (VI). So if you then introduce a temp change of +20, 30, 40 deg C, the two oils would become 'thinner' at different rates. Meaning if you measured the viscosity of both oils at the new temperature, both would now be quite different measured values. As a rule of thumb, the higher the VI of an oil grade, the more it will try to retain it’s original viscosity value over a wider temperature range. Hence there can be quite a good benefit and improved consistency for how the carb behaves on both hot days & cold days, cold start ups and full operating temp. The downside is that oils with high VI’s do tend to be quite a bit more expensive, hence some promoted ‘SU’ grades out there often start out being too viscous at low temperatures because they are perhaps of the thought that they will be nearer correct required viscosity once up to temperature. With the the right VI of the oil to start with, it can be achieved both cold and full running temp……of course relative to the mechanical tolerances of the carb and the engines fuelling needs etc.

Technical videos like this will be less 'entertaining' because the concepts involved require a level of understanding that a lot of viewers just don't have the time or ability for. I will say it again, a modern OBD equipped car is easier to tune/diagnose than an SU one because all the engine parameters are on display. Fully understanding an SU and how to tune it is an analogue skill that takes a long time to acquire and is now rare in our digital world.