IMPORTANT: I strongly suggest to inspect the slide pins and their rubber bushings when you take the rear brake apart. I explained this procedure in my FRONT BRAKE video in detail. See here: ua-cam.com/video/ITz6krTju1o/v-deo.htmlm9s After i had to change the rear brakes again after 3 years and 40k miles, i think it would be very beneficial, and the brakes would last longer.
The calipers and bracket should be removed separately. Slide pins should be inspected and cleaned. They get installed dry. No lube like other brake jobs. 2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee.
No cynical comments from me, was looking to see if i need to worry about the parking brake when dismounting the rear rotor, but i see thats its not an obstacle i need to address. Shout out to the DIYers of the next generation who can still use tools and work on things themselves. Thanks A lot!!
Doing my Exs brakes for her this week (favor for her son) this video was a good refresher for someone like me who stopped driving cars and now puts 80% of his mileage on bikes.
Dont forget to relube the slide pins. May be seized up causing premature failure. Jack stands. Doing this tomorrow,.now I know what to expect. Thanks for posting!
Watched a few videos on this and I like how you used channel locks and lube on the hub too. If anyone has trouble removing the rotor drive with ebrake on a little to remove rust. Thanks for the video!
Sorry. This is not right. It may work, but it isn't right. The seal isn't a seal, it's an O ring to hold the disk in place for assembly. Spraying oil on it, or greasing it? No! That grease is for the moving parts. Places where the brakes vibrate or rub, like where the pads move on the mounting bracket, and on the back of the pads where they contact the caliper or piston. It isn't anti seize.
Just a heads up you should lubricate the back part of the brake pads and the caliper part where it pushes the brake pads together to avoid squeaking worse sometimes that happens and sometimes it doesn’t but you should do that next time not a big deal but you should thanks
Awesome video, thanks for sharing! Would be great to see how to change the parking brake pads, too. But very well explained and it looks easier than I thought!
Gross Meister thanks! Parking brake is a little more difficult, mine was still great (knock on wood). Whenever they go bad I am going to make a video about it. I see here on UA-cam, that people have some difficulties with those brake shoes.
Gross Meister high mileage doesn't necessarily mean that the shoes are bad. They shouldn't be used while the vehicle is driving. Unless you drove with the emergency brake on, they should be good.
Mygiguser. great job. There are things that people will point out in the years to come. How you go about the repair you name it. I would not use a hammer, I use a rubber mallet. or use a 2x4 that long. like said many will ask questions and look for advice, and doing a talki with it will win everyone over FISH
+fishycomics I know a hammer is not good, but the disc is already damaged anyway. To do it right, you have to use a puller. What if you don't have one? I can see that they would use a hammer in the shop, because it's not their car. The only thing that can break or get damaged is the bearing. The customer can come back for that weeks later. I didn't talk in the video, because i wanted to do that in post, and eventually do it in German too. It would be great, if UA-cam would allow a second audio track for multiple languages! After some research i found that there are not many videos of this sort in 4K, but many in lower resolution. What's needed is a video where there is problems like disc doesn't come lose at all, and piston stuck, and fluid leaking, and cracks in parts, noise and what not. But once you have those problems you are not in the mood to film ;-) From the technical point of view i was hoping, that the parking brakes shoes were bad. That's what i see people having issues with, assembling a drum brake pads, or parking brake pads. Now i am thinking, if it would be worth the time and money to replace the shoes in another video. Especially when i hear this one is difficult. The shoes are only $30 plus my time, not sure, if i get enough views to pay for that?!
Agree. a lot we can say? No impact screws? 8mm bolt will be the unconventional way to pull. 4K video benice I love doing drums, they are the hardest to do. Lol.And now all my cars are disk and drum lol agree again youtube you really got to search, they are out there. Again appreciate the advice and enjoyed as as always
+fishycomics 8 mm bolt won't do, because there are no holes in the drum. 4K video is nice, this was 4K all the way. I had 38GB video, cut out a lot, and then compressed down to 3GB.
+fishycomics And yes, I agree, the videos are out there, when you search a lot, but once you uploaded something, then UA-cam finds even more with the same thing you just uploaded.
I was wondering where the parking brake pads were. Logical deduction confirmed lol. My rotors were fine enough so were didn't touch those last week but I may still swap them out since I've driven against those a few times X(
The brakes on my girlfriends 2011 grand Cherokee lasted 122,000 miles in the rear. I’m changing the fronts also but they have life left. I don’t get it and I’m amazed!
Mine are on 170k on the original brakes pads! My mechanic questioned why I wanted to change them at 150k when they were still looking like they had 90% of the life left.
I believe you, it is crazy, i think they used different metal. Did you see that my transmission oil pan was rusted through? ua-cam.com/video/UsL1DjzqCQk/v-deo.html
Well, there is only one piston. I use the brake pad to push the piston back. There are tools out there to do that, if you remove the brake pads first. The main thing to look for is to not tilt the piston, and push it straight back.
Thank you for the video. I want to do this on my Grand Cherokee but I'm not sure exactly where to put the jack stand with the pinch weld/seam. Any assistance is greatly appreciated.
nice video but unless I'm going crazy (probably are) did you just remove the mounting bracket 18mm and left the sliding bolts in the caliper? I've never seen anyone do it that way did you do that because the control arm is in the way or did you not remove and lube them? If you did I missed it and looked at the video multiple times. Thanks again for the post and "F" those idiots talking about your breathing
Great video, any chance of posting the bolt size on the caliper? I have a v8 same year and it’s a odd ball 13 mm hex on the front caliper and wondering what the back would be so I make sure I have all the tools ready to rip 🤙🏻
I appreciate the quick response sir. I guess what I'm wondering is does the jack stand rest against the pinch weld.? I'm afraid of damaging it since it seems very thin. Thank you.
How did you get to the bottom pin on the rear caliper. I am having trouble fitting the hex socket with the driver as it can’t fit easily due to the control arm being in the way. Any tips or what tools to use?
my suggestion is to hit all of the bolts that you will be removing with some pb blaster a day before you start the fix....seriously cranking on rusty bolts is the worst part...this was a good straight forward video so you should be solid!
That's true. Oil always helps. Just not too much on rotating parts, because if you drive afterwards it flies all over the place, and you don't want that stuff on the discs or brake pads!
Yes, there is, but that's not easy to explain. Would be a whole different video. You have to adjust the brake shoes as tight as possible, before you mount the brake disc. Best to use new discs. From there the parking brake should adjust itself.
There are the brakes shoes, and the parking brake mechanism pushes them against the brake drum. The drum and the brake disc for the rear brakes are one part.
Caliper mounting bolts are either 21 or 22 mm. I wasn't paying enough attention but I think it was 22mm. The pins are 7mm at the rear and 11mm at the front on the 2014 with the HD brakes. Probably the same on all of them. This is not a good howto for these brakes. Lubricating the seal is BS, that O ring is for retaining the disk for assembly. Greasing the O ring? Brake grease does not belong there! You are supposed to remove the caliper from the carrier, then remove the carrier. You aren't supposed to do all this with the caliper assembled to the carrier. Watch the South Main video on the same subject.
Dude you need to spend some time at the salad bar and the treadmill if you're breathing that hard, I fear they're going to find you next to your jack stand laid out.
IMPORTANT: I strongly suggest to inspect the slide pins and their rubber bushings when you take the rear brake apart. I explained this procedure in my FRONT BRAKE video in detail. See here: ua-cam.com/video/ITz6krTju1o/v-deo.htmlm9s
After i had to change the rear brakes again after 3 years and 40k miles, i think it would be very beneficial, and the brakes would last longer.
So for the rear you simply removed the caliper bracket with the caliper still attached, correct?
The calipers and bracket should be removed separately. Slide pins should be inspected and cleaned. They get installed dry. No lube like other brake jobs. 2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee.
No cynical comments from me, was looking to see if i need to worry about the parking brake when dismounting the rear rotor, but i see thats its not an obstacle i need to address. Shout out to the DIYers of the next generation who can still use tools and work on things themselves. Thanks A lot!!
I thought the video was fine, showed me just what I needed to know. Thank you.
Doing my Exs brakes for her this week (favor for her son) this video was a good refresher for someone like me who stopped driving cars and now puts 80% of his mileage on bikes.
Dont forget to relube the slide pins. May be seized up causing premature failure. Jack stands.
Doing this tomorrow,.now I know what to expect. Thanks for posting!
yes, i mentioned that in the pinned comment above. I show that in detail in the front brake video ua-cam.com/video/ITz6krTju1o/v-deo.htmlm9s
Watched a few videos on this and I like how you used channel locks and lube on the hub too. If anyone has trouble removing the rotor drive with ebrake on a little to remove rust. Thanks for the video!
Thank you for posting! I love to know what I'm up against before tearing my car apart in the driveway. Cheers
mitchell janusz Good luck! Thanks for watching!
Great Video but it sounds like you need oxygen
That would have been great at that time.
Have another smoke maybe....
Sorry. This is not right. It may work, but it isn't right. The seal isn't a seal, it's an O ring to hold the disk in place for assembly. Spraying oil on it, or greasing it? No! That grease is for the moving parts. Places where the brakes vibrate or rub, like where the pads move on the mounting bracket, and on the back of the pads where they contact the caliper or piston. It isn't anti seize.
Don't worry about it. That grease is good for the rubber, it doesn't destroy the rubber, it is good for it. Don't worry. Is is going to be alright.
Great video! I was looking for one to change my own brakes and rotors 2012 JGC. Thanks
A great video, this cleared everything up for me, doing this in the morning. Thank you for the help!
thanks for sharing this video..it was great to have as reference
Just a heads up you should lubricate the back part of the brake pads and the caliper part where it pushes the brake pads together to avoid squeaking worse sometimes that happens and sometimes it doesn’t but you should do that next time not a big deal but you should thanks
Thank you so much, this was very helpful!
Excellent work!!
Awesome video, thanks for sharing! Would be great to see how to change the parking brake pads, too. But very well explained and it looks easier than I thought!
Gross Meister thanks! Parking brake is a little more difficult, mine was still great (knock on wood). Whenever they go bad I am going to make a video about it. I see here on UA-cam, that people have some difficulties with those brake shoes.
Do you remember, what kind of difficulties they had? Re-fitting them? Or adjusting them?
Gross Meister just mounting them in general. Getting the springs back on seems a little tricky.
OK, thanks for that information. So I will plan some more time to replace these, as I think mine are worn out after 110.000 miles and 4 years...
Gross Meister high mileage doesn't necessarily mean that the shoes are bad. They shouldn't be used while the vehicle is driving. Unless you drove with the emergency brake on, they should be good.
Mygiguser. great job.
There are things that people will point out in the years to come. How you go about the repair you name it. I would not use a hammer, I use a rubber mallet. or use a 2x4 that long. like said many will ask questions and look for advice, and doing a talki with it will win everyone over
FISH
+fishycomics I know a hammer is not good, but the disc is already damaged anyway. To do it right, you have to use a puller. What if you don't have one? I can see that they would use a hammer in the shop, because it's not their car. The only thing that can break or get damaged is the bearing. The customer can come back for that weeks later.
I didn't talk in the video, because i wanted to do that in post, and eventually do it in German too. It would be great, if UA-cam would allow a second audio track for multiple languages!
After some research i found that there are not many videos of this sort in 4K, but many in lower resolution.
What's needed is a video where there is problems like disc doesn't come lose at all, and piston stuck, and fluid leaking, and cracks in parts, noise and what not. But once you have those problems you are not in the mood to film ;-)
From the technical point of view i was hoping, that the parking brakes shoes were bad. That's what i see people having issues with, assembling a drum brake pads, or parking brake pads.
Now i am thinking, if it would be worth the time and money to replace the shoes in another video. Especially when i hear this one is difficult. The shoes are only $30 plus my time, not sure, if i get enough views to pay for that?!
Agree.
a lot we can say?
No impact screws?
8mm bolt will be the unconventional way to pull.
4K video benice
I love doing drums, they are the hardest to do. Lol.And now all my cars are disk and drum lol
agree again youtube you really got to search, they are out there.
Again appreciate the advice and enjoyed as as always
+fishycomics 8 mm bolt won't do, because there are no holes in the drum.
4K video is nice, this was 4K all the way. I had 38GB video, cut out a lot, and then compressed down to 3GB.
+fishycomics And yes, I agree, the videos are out there, when you search a lot, but once you uploaded something, then UA-cam finds even more with the same thing you just uploaded.
I was wondering where the parking brake pads were. Logical deduction confirmed lol. My rotors were fine enough so were didn't touch those last week but I may still swap them out since I've driven against those a few times X(
Hard work in easy way, good job and the best part was testing with camera.
but what was the model of JGC in this video?
the jackal WK2 Laredo
Thank you for sharing
nice video, very helpful thanks
The brakes on my girlfriends 2011 grand Cherokee lasted 122,000 miles in the rear. I’m changing the fronts also but they have life left. I don’t get it and I’m amazed!
cardboardorigami me too! It must be the quality of the original brakes.
2008 wk and 156000 on mine
Mine are on 170k on the original brakes pads! My mechanic questioned why I wanted to change them at 150k when they were still looking like they had 90% of the life left.
I just want to fix an old drum brake, where it is so rotten that i have to get the burner out to take it apart. That would be fun...
very helpful. thank you
You know there are jack points you can use, that wood is going to collapse some day.
That was good quality wood from the homedepot. That doesn't collapse.
Holy fuck you got more rust under you 2013 then my 2005 and I live in Kansas city
I believe you, it is crazy, i think they used different metal. Did you see that my transmission oil pan was rusted through? ua-cam.com/video/UsL1DjzqCQk/v-deo.html
Thank you.
Was wondering if you have a video of changing the e-break? For a 2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee? Thank you again.
Are you able to explain a little more what you are doing between 3:55-4:20?
thanks
Well, there is only one piston. I use the brake pad to push the piston back. There are tools out there to do that, if you remove the brake pads first. The main thing to look for is to not tilt the piston, and push it straight back.
UA-cam commenters are so weird. Y'all worried about his breathing more than the video true content 🙄😒
Thank you for the video. I want to do this on my Grand Cherokee but I'm not sure exactly where to put the jack stand with the pinch weld/seam. Any assistance is greatly appreciated.
Chris Nyberg check the user's manual. There are arrows that mark the spot for the car jack!
Sounds like hard work. . . Should give up the tabs. . .
You're right i should.
nice video but unless I'm going crazy (probably are) did you just remove the mounting bracket 18mm and left the sliding bolts in the caliper? I've never seen anyone do it that way did you do that because the control arm is in the way or did you not remove and lube them? If you did I missed it and looked at the video multiple times. Thanks again for the post and "F" those idiots talking about your breathing
Great video, any chance of posting the bolt size on the caliper? I have a v8 same year and it’s a odd ball 13 mm hex on the front caliper and wondering what the back would be so I make sure I have all the tools ready to rip 🤙🏻
Jason B yeah that was 18mm
Great video. Thanks!! Are there any differences to consider with rear brakes or rotors or is it the same procedure?
Breaksnap Not that i know of.
I appreciate the quick response sir. I guess what I'm wondering is does the jack stand rest against the pinch weld.? I'm afraid of damaging it since it seems very thin. Thank you.
You can add a piece of hardwood to avoid that.
How did you get to the bottom pin on the rear caliper. I am having trouble fitting the hex socket with the driver as it can’t fit easily due to the control arm being in the way. Any tips or what tools to use?
Ben Peterson You can see the tool i used in the video. Nothing special there?! @5:13 regular hex wrench.
I feel like I could do this. But I know as soon as I get everything broken apart there's gonna be some unexpected thing that only my car has. Lol
Think positive! As long as you don't break anything taking it apart, you are good.
my suggestion is to hit all of the bolts that you will be removing with some pb blaster a day before you start the fix....seriously cranking on rusty bolts is the worst part...this was a good straight forward video so you should be solid!
That's true. Oil always helps. Just not too much on rotating parts, because if you drive afterwards it flies all over the place, and you don't want that stuff on the discs or brake pads!
where can I get the rubber seal? mine it's broken auto parts doesn't have
At the dealership maybe? Did you try mymoparparts.com ?
Get rid of that jack... Lol
i would invest in a better jack...
wil
will that work on a jeep rubicon 2011 rear brakes?
I think so. Should be the same setup.
Is there any way to adjust/tighten the parking brake on these cars?
Yes, there is, but that's not easy to explain. Would be a whole different video. You have to adjust the brake shoes as tight as possible, before you mount the brake disc. Best to use new discs. From there the parking brake should adjust itself.
thanks, is there some type of "parking brake kit" that needs to be bought or is it a simple tightening?
There are the brakes shoes, and the parking brake mechanism pushes them against the brake drum. The drum and the brake disc for the rear brakes are one part.
What size socket do you use for that caliper bolt?
Sorry, i don't remember. It was a standard size, nothing special, otherwise i would have mentioned it in the video.
Good post i just wish you'd said what size socket i need
Do like we all do and test fit till you find the one
Caliper mounting bolts are either 21 or 22 mm. I wasn't paying enough attention but I think it was 22mm. The pins are 7mm at the rear and 11mm at the front on the 2014 with the HD brakes. Probably the same on all of them. This is not a good howto for these brakes. Lubricating the seal is BS, that O ring is for retaining the disk for assembly. Greasing the O ring? Brake grease does not belong there! You are supposed to remove the caliper from the carrier, then remove the carrier. You aren't supposed to do all this with the caliper assembled to the carrier. Watch the South Main video on the same subject.
Dude you need to spend some time at the salad bar and the treadmill if you're breathing that hard, I fear they're going to find you next to your jack stand laid out.
i know
what kind of rotors just standard ones??
Yes, the cheap stuff.
autozone/advanceautoparts .which is better?
I don't think that makes a difference in this case. I would pick the best price.
Dam I was getting tired just listening to you breathe 😖
One day, when you have trouble sleeping, just listen to my video, and you fall asleep like a baby.
mygiguser 😖😖 that’s not sleeping that’s gasping for air sorry!!!
Had to turn sound down your breathing creeped me out ...
My Larson you did the right thing! Sorry about me breathing.
Larson you suck man. To make fun of someone’s health condition. I don’t even know this guy but I want to come stomp you out! Fucking pussy!
the breathing is so annoying, i didnt finish the video