At 05:07 - 5:14... using a straight edge - this is how you get perfect panel alignment and transitions and ultimately, flawless reflection as your eye travels from one panel to the next. These guys are top-notch! Bravo!
@@jeepsblackpowderandlights4305 You find or create another tool/substitute to mimic the shape of the panels; something more flexible that you can bend. Sometimes you need to get creative... a paint stick, a metal rod, a wooden dowel, acrylic sheets/plexiglass, etc.
Most people in the comments are trashing on the "Bondo" work. I on the other hand can appreciate the insane amount of work that is actually being put it to make this car look better than factory! Keep up the amazing work guys! ya'll inspire me every time I see a new video!
Thanks Brad, it's a ton of work for sure. Great to hear some people appreciate it ;-). Yeah, the same people will probably talk your ear off about how much they love this or that custom car at a show (or more likely they've never even been to a show), but this is how a lot of that perfection is achieved. They just think filler = bad and that you can metalwork a surface to be flawless.
Agreed. This work is not easy. The one thing I would like to see though. Especially on a build of this level. Is the body filler being mixed on a scale at the exact 2% ratio every time it’s mixed. I don’t like seeing the Willy nilly this much activator looks good. Just my two cents. Not trying to be critical.
On the body filler, there are a million ways to skin a cat. This method is the most thorough along with the most work. No shortcuts here. Impossible to miss a spot this way. Nice one!
As someone who worked in a body shop in the late 60's and early I was flabbergasted a few years back when I saw a restoration vehicle being skim coated. After reading up and understanding the process, it makes perfect sense to get straight panels especially since the covering is not the same chemically as the old fillers. These epoxy and urethane based skim coaters are much more stable with limited shrinkage.
As straight as you can do the body work you still have to glaze the whole car to get the body really straight however with this guys first way of shaving the not so dried body filler with a cheese grader is not advisable it can pull the not so dried filler away from the metal and you will not know it for years to come other than that these guys do really nice work I have been doing concourse paint work for forty years mostly on Mercedes like Gullwings .if you spread the filler smooth you don’t need to use a cheese grader also if you let the filler dry over night it is better also because filler shrinks I know it is way harder but if you want your filler and paint work to last you can’t rush it just really think it just makes common sense
Ahh the tedious work of skimming, blocking, rinsing and repeating until the flanks are smooth as glass. I like your method of guide coating for color sanding. That is a lost art and almost a necessity for white and silver cars. I learned that trick from Drew Alcazar of Concours Restorations. Great work!
Cheese-graters and Viking air files. 99% of the channels have never even seen these tools, let alone know how to use them. Now that is old school and done right. FYI it gets the bulk down quickly allowing you to save enormous amounts of time to get the basic shape. Then you come back and hand block until laser straight.
Exactly 👍😏 I used to use cheese graters back when but nowadays I like to use some older used 40/80 grit sandpaper for shaping (as the filler is curing) on the higher build stuff. Especially on the old 30s, 40s, early 50s fenders etc. Otherwise, usually I like to get my filler laid as slick as my panel and let it dry and 80 grit it down with NO need for a bunch of extra mud needing sanded. Some jobs DO require such but you get your metal STRAIGHT? Ya shouldn't need to load it up with mud needing to cheese grade/sand down while the filler is drying but? There ARE them exceptions. And I use the hell out of my airboards too as well getting that stuff cut down! 👍 Hutchins and Dynabrade make the BEST stuff from sanders to the actual wooden/hard plastic blocks IMO.
You can’t have a show quality paint job without filler whether it be plastic or lead. Anyone that says otherwise can have fun building one car every 30 years while the rest of us do it the smart way.
"Show quality" doesn't mean dick. Hilarious you say it "can't be done" but your way is the "smart way". Equally hilarious is putting on mud referred to as "body work". And you referring to lead and plastic like they're remotely close on the "skill scale" and "interchangeable". Go get plastic to stick to "bare metal" and/or lead to "stick" to anything but "bodyman".
Trigger finger/tendonitis/carpel tunnel aggravating bastards are what those blocks are! Yes they DO work well IF you don't have "prior problems" mentioned. Great for them younger guys maybe! Lol. But yeah, I am thinking about maybe trying them "Linear-blocks" they have now 🤔 SAME concept as the flat board block but they have circular handles actually giving the person something to grip/hold onto! 👍 No big deal. Just MORE $$$ thrown out on sanding blocks. 😆 Lol
I had no idea I live only 3 hours away from one of the coolest body shops around. I would totally take my 68 GMC to you guys for paint and body if I could. Awesome job ya'll😎🤟🏻
Hard to believe he really said 600-8000 grit for the polishing stage. This is up there with high level, high $$$$ builds. The fact that they use Glasurit says it all. Concours level.
Watch these guys they use a lot of gloves because your hands have oils and moisture on them that can ruin a paint job and can can create rust and small bubbles under the surface when stripping cars down to bare metal with chemical stripper I have seen complete hand prints from guys putting there hands on the cars to push them around my 2cents these guys build bad ass cars
I actually am getting my 66 Chevelle ready for body work right now, but I had no idea that so much BONDO is supposed to be laid down on straight panels, I have been fortunate so far and have not had to replace my quarter panels, it's a west coast car, but that seems like a lot of mud going on that car, but I digress I am not a Paint and body guy, so is this the proper way before paint?
Most of the Filler (It’s NOT Bondo, Bondo is a brand name) is sanded off, there are several techniques to get a panel straight. Spray filler or high build surfaces are also great options. They are using a premium high grade professional filler by 3M
I can respect the amount of work that is put into this car.. but like my camaro and 69 coronet the factory fit and finish is terrible ( gaps and body lines) however I’d rather have them and enjoy driving them not having to worry leaving them in a parking lot. Once my other camaro goes under the knife the replacement quarters will align how the factory currently is but I’m not making it 💯 perfect. “Close enough “ just like 1971 factory workers did it. Truth be told a guy doing this in his home shop usually never finishes his project when he’s attempting perfect outcome, it takes him 5 times longer and they get burned out or it’s a complete hack job. I restored for almost a decade so I’ve seen some things come through the shop. Honestly the best ones were the ones I was talking about. Minimum filler, lines weren’t laser straight, gaps were off and at first glance the panels looked 💯 original before work was done. We thought we had a straight solid original car but 20% of the metal was replaced.
You wouldn't love paying for it. Waste more time and material and make more money "mudding" and calling it "bodywork" and selling it to "car guys" like you as "paint prep" after leaving 99% of it on the floor and then do enough "masking" to cover a tennis court "shooting" a monochromatic paint job with an HVLP gun in a "professional grade" paint booth and decide how many coats to "shoot" before they even start and with no "sprayout". Then "wet sand" (back and forth in one tiny spot and damned dry) to "8000'" and then "buff" the remaining "clear". Gotta put in a lot of "man hours" to keep that many people paid doing one project at a time, I guess. Really got a kick out of the obvious "surface rust" on the package tray as well as up around the inside of the firewall etc. Not to mention the homemade "trans tunnel" that almost looks like aluminum.
Great work! I got a question though I noticed you guys did the bodywork and set the gaps with the bracing still in the car does this ever create a problem when you cut it out? Keep up the hard work on the videos!
LOL at all these commenters complaining about “all that filler”. Full float filler work is the only way to go for a truly straight body. This, comment section experts, is how it’s done!
I think they refer to who shitty its applied. I know it sands out, but the smoother you start the faster you are done sanding. Some of it looks like its spread after its starting to harden.
this is good paint job and if you want your paintwork to be strait you must put heavy coat of bondo and then sand much of it .i'm talking about car restoration ,where very often panels have numerous dents .no mater how good the panel beater is god, no mater if he apply lead...you have to strait this with something.there are numerous materials you can put:polyester bondo,epoxy bondo,spray filler of all kinds...but one thing i don't understand???why on heaven they don't use tools with dust extraction ???it can be pneumatic ,electric.even sanding blocks with dust extraction.they like to be dirty and to damage their health???
Classic cars With a restoration and paint job like this I can see is worth the money $$$ for those shit unrestored rust bucket’s and cheap maaco paint jobs Keep watching Barrett Jackson 😂
Hi Gary, yes and no. That's a metal filler panel, but it does get bodyworked. On a lot of mild customs, if we're not doing a custom firewall for engine/transition fitment, generally we replace the firewall with a new metal filler panel to clean things up a bit. These days you can buy these panels for many cars from Summit. If we can't find one we'll make one on the plasma table. Sometimes we'll weld up and metal finish holes on a firewall that's closer to factory to clean things up as well. At the end of the day it all depends on what the customer is going for.
instead of skimming 80% of the car with bondo. Why not epoxy seal, fix major issues with fill then apply a 2k high build primer and guide coat. Sand 220 fix the highs and lows, then guidecoat and 400, seal before BC.
I do custom paint and body I would have used a bigger spatula it's okay to cheese grade but myself personally I like doing a coat a light coat black sanding it off 36 then building up another Conan just working each panel at a time different conformed blocks to get a really straight panel their job comes out good to but I really don't like that method and pulling up to 8,000 is crazy I've never heard of that I've heard a cutting with 600 that is awfully heavy grit to be cutting with but if you got five coats of clear that is one thing two I like going down to about a thousand maybe 800 depending on how thick to clear is if you don't get a lot of debris in your clear I will go a thousand all day 15 mm 3000 4000 and 5000 then b u f f
Thanks for sharing Ace! Lots of ways to skin a cat - great to hear what processes other people have developed that work for them. We've worked quite a bit with our suppliers to get a set of materials and processes that yield the results we're looking for.
Thanks! It varies a bit with every car and what the customer is looking for, but yeah, you're in the ballpark. Lots of hours, and really no way around it.
I don’t hate on filler but what I don’t see here is transition from flooding it with filler to hi build primer or imperfections like any pin holes addressed….. personally I’d rather hi fill a car , guide coat it , and dolphin glaaze any minor lows …. Seem like a lot of mills will end up on the finished job …. I do get that 89-90 percent of filler was sanded off however , so it’s still a sound job 👍🏻
How long does it take you guys to cut an entire car from 600grit to 8000? Ive only seen up to 5000, had no idea it went up that high, how many coats of clear do you shoot? And what materials do you use to buff?
Hard work, talent and all the equipment needed, But I just refuse to skim coat any car with body filler. I don't care if the body filler costs 400 dollars per gallon. I would only use body filler pulled extremely tight to fill in minor imperfections and high build primer block and repeat. However the car in this video came out nice looking. I would want a finish to be around 20 years later and people say, " No way this car was painted 20 years ago. "
Bit over top with the filler... but credit for showing this stage of repair as most don’t like you seeing it... and if you are sanding to 8000 why are you using a lambs wool pad to buff it??
ON TARGET THOM uncle sam no. It’s bondo not primer. They apparently skim coat the whole car to get it perfectly straight . It was a joke. Primer is not a putty spread on with a piece of plastic
ON TARGET THOM uncle sam that car was covered in bondo a plastic putty and sanded smooth to insure a flat straight surface and then primer SPRAYED on and sanded. Then base color paint and clear coat. Did you watch the same video that I saw? Primer is sprayed on and not spread on with a plastic device. You should probably retire.
People really don't realize how tuff Body work like this is until you actually do it.
I took a body work class a few months ago and it was super challenging trying to find the high and low spots.
Man, tell my customers that. They have no idea how much work goes into their car before we spray.
@@Nygex2024 You can have a excellent painter. But if the prep work isn't good it doesn't matter how good of a painter you have.
@@kevins_mlbbaseballhighligh9102 you aren’t kidding. I chuckle when my customers always want to know who is spraying their car.
At 05:07 - 5:14... using a straight edge - this is how you get perfect panel alignment and transitions and ultimately, flawless reflection as your eye travels from one panel to the next. These guys are top-notch! Bravo!
how exactly does that work when the panels are curved all over anyway
@@jeepsblackpowderandlights4305 You find or create another tool/substitute to mimic the shape of the panels; something more flexible that you can bend. Sometimes you need to get creative... a paint stick, a metal rod, a wooden dowel, acrylic sheets/plexiglass, etc.
Most people in the comments are trashing on the "Bondo" work. I on the other hand can appreciate the insane amount of work that is actually being put it to make this car look better than factory! Keep up the amazing work guys! ya'll inspire me every time I see a new video!
Thanks Brad, it's a ton of work for sure. Great to hear some people appreciate it ;-). Yeah, the same people will probably talk your ear off about how much they love this or that custom car at a show (or more likely they've never even been to a show), but this is how a lot of that perfection is achieved. They just think filler = bad and that you can metalwork a surface to be flawless.
Thats because no one knows what it takes to build I high quality car with no imperfections. I love watching and learning the process.
Agreed. This work is not easy. The one thing I would like to see though. Especially on a build of this level. Is the body filler being mixed on a scale at the exact 2% ratio every time it’s mixed. I don’t like seeing the Willy nilly this much activator looks good. Just my two cents. Not trying to be critical.
Are the after market panels really that bad that you need to use that much donbo?
On the body filler, there are a million ways to skin a cat. This method is the most thorough along with the most work. No shortcuts here. Impossible to miss a spot this way. Nice one!
As someone who worked in a body shop in the late 60's and early I was flabbergasted a few years back when I saw a restoration vehicle being skim coated. After reading up and understanding the process, it makes perfect sense to get straight panels especially since the covering is not the same chemically as the old fillers. These epoxy and urethane based skim coaters are much more stable with limited shrinkage.
As straight as you can do the body work you still have to glaze the whole car to get the body really straight however with this guys first way of shaving the not so dried body filler with a cheese grader is not advisable it can pull the not so dried filler away from the metal and you will not know it for years to come other than that these guys do really nice work I have been doing concourse paint work for forty years mostly on Mercedes like Gullwings .if you spread the filler smooth you don’t need to use a cheese grader also if you let the filler dry over night it is better also because filler shrinks I know it is way harder but if you want your filler and paint work to last you can’t rush it just really think it just makes common sense
One of my race cars is a 66 Chevelle. Mine is white with a blue interior. Love that silver. Cool build.
Ahh the tedious work of skimming, blocking, rinsing and repeating until the flanks are smooth as glass. I like your method of guide coating for color sanding. That is a lost art and almost a necessity for white and silver cars. I learned that trick from Drew Alcazar of Concours Restorations. Great work!
Yeah, one of those things you don't really fully appreciate until you see it done - or even better, do it yourself!
My brother had a 66 in 1969. His was red. He painted the strip across back with key area flat black. In 6 months every one in south Ga. painted theirs
Your body work is beautiful.
That’s the only way to get em straight. Nice work!!
Cheese-graters and Viking air files. 99% of the channels have never even seen these tools, let alone know how to use them. Now that is old school and done right. FYI it gets the bulk down quickly allowing you to save enormous amounts of time to get the basic shape. Then you come back and hand block until laser straight.
Exactly 👍😏 I used to use cheese graters back when but nowadays I like to use some older used 40/80 grit sandpaper for shaping (as the filler is curing) on the higher build stuff. Especially on the old 30s, 40s, early 50s fenders etc. Otherwise, usually I like to get my filler laid as slick as my panel and let it dry and 80 grit it down with NO need for a bunch of extra mud needing sanded. Some jobs DO require such but you get your metal STRAIGHT? Ya shouldn't need to load it up with mud needing to cheese grade/sand down while the filler is drying but? There ARE them exceptions. And I use the hell out of my airboards too as well getting that stuff cut down! 👍 Hutchins and Dynabrade make the BEST stuff from sanders to the actual wooden/hard plastic blocks IMO.
Truly stunning workmanship. Amazing talents.
I am impressed with your work ethic and TALENT .
You can’t have a show quality paint job without filler whether it be plastic or lead. Anyone that says otherwise can have fun building one car every 30 years while the rest of us do it the smart way.
"Show quality" doesn't mean dick. Hilarious you say it "can't be done" but your way is the "smart way". Equally hilarious is putting on mud referred to as "body work". And you referring to lead and plastic like they're remotely close on the "skill scale" and "interchangeable". Go get plastic to stick to "bare metal" and/or lead to "stick" to anything but "bodyman".
I really love this stuff BUT please please make the videos longer and show more of the process. Love the work just want to see more.
We’ll be showing more in videos and posting more frequently soon. Make sure to subscribe! Thanks for watching.
Those “Matt Blocks” are awesome !!! Hard to hold onto but they block better then the others. Spray filler probably faster, nice work guys !!
Trigger finger/tendonitis/carpel tunnel aggravating bastards are what those blocks are! Yes they DO work well IF you don't have "prior problems" mentioned. Great for them younger guys maybe! Lol. But yeah, I am thinking about maybe trying them "Linear-blocks" they have now 🤔 SAME concept as the flat board block but they have circular handles actually giving the person something to grip/hold onto! 👍 No big deal. Just MORE $$$ thrown out on sanding blocks. 😆 Lol
that bodywork looks awesome
Can we please start putting old school carbureted engines in old cars again? The LS is a fantastic design but come on people
Incredible Craftsmanship!!!
I had no idea I live only 3 hours away from one of the coolest body shops around. I would totally take my 68 GMC to you guys for paint and body if I could. Awesome job ya'll😎🤟🏻
I had my 70 Z28 stripped back in ‘85 with nearly zero Bondo before paint.
Muy buen laburo los felicito saludo desde Córdoba Argentina 🏁🖒💪
Very good❤
Wish I had the money to do that, but I’m happy with my Chevelle, I should start a Go Fund Me....lol
My dream car
Amazing!
Thanks!
Wow,good work guys.
Very very good.
Congratulations! Good Job!
Brazil - Ceará - Aquiraz - Tapera.
Nice job!
Beautiful
Hard to believe he really said 600-8000 grit for the polishing stage. This is up there with high level, high $$$$ builds. The fact that they use Glasurit says it all. Concours level.
Watch these guys they use
a lot of gloves because your hands have oils and moisture on them that can ruin a paint job and can can create rust and small bubbles under the surface when stripping cars down to bare metal with chemical stripper I have seen complete hand prints from guys putting there hands on the cars to push them around my 2cents these guys build bad ass cars
Is it actually necessary to sculpt the ENTIRE BODY out of BONDO ????
JOB WELL DONE!!!
Very Nice ‼️👏🏼👏🏼🤩🔝🇧🇷
I actually am getting my 66 Chevelle ready for body work right now, but I had no idea that so much BONDO is supposed to be laid down on straight panels, I have been fortunate so far and have not had to replace my quarter panels, it's a west coast car, but that seems like a lot of mud going on that car, but I digress I am not a Paint and body guy, so is this the proper way before paint?
Most of the Filler (It’s NOT Bondo, Bondo is a brand name) is sanded off, there are several techniques to get a panel straight. Spray filler or high build surfaces are also great options. They are using a premium high grade professional filler by 3M
I don’t get it either . Why mud where it doesn’t need it . I’ve seen other ppl do this too . The whole car will be mudded up then .
I can respect the amount of work that is put into this car.. but like my camaro and 69 coronet the factory fit and finish is terrible ( gaps and body lines) however I’d rather have them and enjoy driving them not having to worry leaving them in a parking lot. Once my other camaro goes under the knife the replacement quarters will align how the factory currently is but I’m not making it 💯 perfect. “Close enough “ just like 1971 factory workers did it. Truth be told a guy doing this in his home shop usually never finishes his project when he’s attempting perfect outcome, it takes him 5 times longer and they get burned out or it’s a complete hack job. I restored for almost a decade so I’ve seen some things come through the shop. Honestly the best ones were the ones I was talking about. Minimum filler, lines weren’t laser straight, gaps were off and at first glance the panels looked 💯 original before work was done. We thought we had a straight solid original car but 20% of the metal was replaced.
Very cool!
Freakin nice job
LS 7 excellent choice
Asewome, that car looks flawless nice job!!!! One question what kind of sanding blocks are those?
True blox
This Chevelle was fantasic, great job..Just curious what would a paint job like that run?????? by the way i loved the skim coat on the whole car.
You wouldn't love paying for it. Waste more time and material and make more money "mudding" and calling it "bodywork" and selling it to "car guys" like you as "paint prep" after leaving 99% of it on the floor and then do enough "masking" to cover a tennis court "shooting" a monochromatic paint job with an HVLP gun in a "professional grade" paint booth and decide how many coats to "shoot" before they even start and with no "sprayout". Then "wet sand" (back and forth in one tiny spot and damned dry) to "8000'" and then "buff" the remaining "clear". Gotta put in a lot of "man hours" to keep that many people paid doing one project at a time, I guess.
Really got a kick out of the obvious "surface rust" on the package tray as well as up around the inside of the firewall etc. Not to mention the homemade "trans tunnel" that almost looks like aluminum.
I think your fingers are getting tired from all the “air quotes”
Great work! I got a question though I noticed you guys did the bodywork and set the gaps with the bracing still in the car does this ever create a problem when you cut it out? Keep up the hard work on the videos!
Good luck on getting a return reply 👍
Trabalho excepcional ! Gostei muito do processo .
Simple I work in Southern California when it gets hotter use less hardener that’s it
California gets hot,? 90 degrees is not hot
@@joeschlotthauer840 105° in South Texas with 90% humidity.
LOL at all these commenters complaining about “all that filler”. Full float filler work is the only way to go for a truly straight body. This, comment section experts, is how it’s done!
I think they refer to who shitty its applied. I know it sands out, but the smoother you start the faster you are done sanding. Some of it looks like its spread after its starting to harden.
Excellent body woork....uff
You guys are nuts never heard of featherfield primer
been doing body work close to 50 yrs you guys need more training on laying down mud
Awesome job! Does anyone know what the boards they are using to sand the cars .with either the red or blue tape on them are called?
Big Kid Blocks .com
wery good job and that music is from were cant find it we follow
good job
I hope to work with you
this is good paint job and if you want your paintwork to be strait you must put heavy coat of bondo and then sand much of it .i'm talking about car restoration ,where very often panels have numerous dents .no mater how good the panel beater is god, no mater if he apply lead...you have to strait this with something.there are numerous materials you can put:polyester bondo,epoxy bondo,spray filler of all kinds...but one thing i don't understand???why on heaven they don't use tools with dust extraction ???it can be pneumatic ,electric.even sanding blocks with dust extraction.they like to be dirty and to damage their health???
Hey you should do a 1968 Pontiac Gto
too much hardener!....dude.
Classic cars With a restoration and paint job like this I can see is worth the money $$$ for those shit unrestored rust bucket’s and cheap maaco paint jobs Keep watching Barrett Jackson 😂
@classic car studio - beautiful work. What color code silver is that?
The music is great
Did you put body filler on the firewall where all the factory dimples are? Mine looks like it's been shot with birdshot.
Hi Gary, yes and no. That's a metal filler panel, but it does get bodyworked. On a lot of mild customs, if we're not doing a custom firewall for engine/transition fitment, generally we replace the firewall with a new metal filler panel to clean things up a bit. These days you can buy these panels for many cars from Summit. If we can't find one we'll make one on the plasma table. Sometimes we'll weld up and metal finish holes on a firewall that's closer to factory to clean things up as well. At the end of the day it all depends on what the customer is going for.
instead of skimming 80% of the car with bondo. Why not epoxy seal, fix major issues with fill then apply a 2k high build primer and guide coat. Sand 220 fix the highs and lows, then guidecoat and 400, seal before BC.
I do custom paint and body I would have used a bigger spatula it's okay to cheese grade but myself personally I like doing a coat a light coat black sanding it off 36 then building up another Conan just working each panel at a time different conformed blocks to get a really straight panel their job comes out good to but I really don't like that method and pulling up to 8,000 is crazy I've never heard of that I've heard a cutting with 600 that is awfully heavy grit to be cutting with but if you got five coats of clear that is one thing two I like going down to about a thousand maybe 800 depending on how thick to clear is if you don't get a lot of debris in your clear I will go a thousand all day 15 mm 3000 4000 and 5000 then b u f f
Thanks for sharing Ace! Lots of ways to skin a cat - great to hear what processes other people have developed that work for them. We've worked quite a bit with our suppliers to get a set of materials and processes that yield the results we're looking for.
its funny that the video didnt show the primer and block sanding stage of the process just goes from bondo to paint
It's not Bondo it's primer
@@ontargetthomunclesam3926 bondo cracks and falls out and rust the metal underneath. the products used to day are 1000 times better than that crap.
What body filler you used? Do you applied directly on top of epoxy primer?
They dont explain any process. I think thats what most people watch these for.
wow, what a job)) Many many hours spent. Would be intresting to know what the complete body and paintwork cost? 60-70 k?
Thanks! It varies a bit with every car and what the customer is looking for, but yeah, you're in the ballpark. Lots of hours, and really no way around it.
@@ClassicCarStudio Then some moron on their f'ing phone , hits the car! You spend life in jail for murder!
@@terrythomas790 🤣🤣🤣
I don’t hate on filler but what I don’t see here is transition from flooding it with filler to hi build primer or imperfections like any pin holes addressed….. personally I’d rather hi fill a car , guide coat it , and dolphin glaaze any minor lows …. Seem like a lot of mills will end up on the finished job …. I do get that 89-90 percent of filler was sanded off however , so it’s still a sound job 👍🏻
What engine/trans harness do you guys use?
How long does it take you guys to cut an entire car from 600grit to 8000? Ive only seen up to 5000, had no idea it went up that high, how many coats of clear do you shoot? And what materials do you use to buff?
1 coat sealer, 4 coats of base and 5 coats of clear
I’d really like to see difference going up to like 2 or 3000 then cut/buff vs same with 8k. . . Bet you can’t tell
What would that much body work with that paint job .. cost? .... killer job
I like to shine a light down the side of a car to see if it is straight.
Looks like the body work I TRIED when I was 15 years old
@@mike5162 what looks like the body work you did?
Do you guys have any tips for body filling large areas? Stuff dries faster than a grannies panties in the dessert
I wonder if a magnet will still stick to that car ?🤔
it will. my car was done the same way, skim or butter coat over entire car.
Were doing that to our 69 impala
Mark, what was the long straight edge device that you were using?
It was a straight edge
Hard work, talent and all the equipment needed, But I just refuse to skim coat any car with body filler. I don't care if the body filler costs 400 dollars per gallon. I would only use body filler pulled extremely tight to fill in minor imperfections and high build primer block and repeat. However the car in this video came out nice looking. I would want a finish to be around 20 years later and people say, " No way this car was painted 20 years ago. "
How long it took you guys to do the bodywork great job guys keep the brilliant work 👍
what is the name of this mass? that was applied to the car
What happened with the show? I loved the first two seasons
Miss seeing you guys on Discovery Channel. Way better then Graveyard cars. What happened.
That's a shitload of glaze right there. Might as well just make the entire body off Bondo or clay, since this is more like sculpting.
thats how they do high end body work. skim or butter coat the entire car.
Bit over top with the filler... but credit for showing this stage of repair as most don’t like you seeing it... and if you are sanding to 8000 why are you using a lambs wool pad to buff it??
У нас, в России столько шпатлевки используют перекупщики при быстрой подготовке авто к продаже🤣
Да они через жопу все делают, по линейки выводит грани кузова 😂🤣У него она вместо заводского лекала или пресс формы 😂🤣
What the heck Mark ?. Not using paint sticks like the old days when blocking a car ??????
Wat is the paste they throw on the car? Bondo?
MERCURIALBUILT Rich, body filler.
Boa tarde rua fasutolo 130 & 213 são Paulo-sp água branca-lapa brasileiro carro 1972 Chevy Pu c-10
2:21 tool name?
Dommages que la 66 soit si chere et surtout introuvables pour moi c est la plus belles pour se tayer la route 66
No primer ?
E aqui no brasil c vc usa um pouco d massa ja querem reclama kkk
What is it that is getting sanded off?
Body filler. They put a skim coat on the whole car and sand it down to get the car laser straight.
I’m not an expert but I’m pretty god damn sure that they missed a spot with the bondo. Must have used 10 gallons
That’s a lot of primer ?????
ON TARGET THOM uncle sam no. It’s bondo not primer. They apparently skim coat the whole car to get it perfectly straight . It was a joke. Primer is not a putty spread on with a piece of plastic
ON TARGET THOM uncle sam that car was covered in bondo a plastic putty and sanded smooth to insure a flat straight surface and then primer SPRAYED on and sanded. Then base color paint and clear coat. Did you watch the same video that I saw? Primer is sprayed on and not spread on with a plastic device. You should probably retire.
ON TARGET THOM uncle sam no that’s bondo and you’re a hack
Creo que tu auto de masilla tiene un poco de chapa.
Why all the body filler is this require in all old vehicles
OMG, why not use vacuum, and why still work with water to sand filler...!?!?
My arms got tired watching all that sanding.
Preciso saber que massa poliéster é esta por dar tempo de passar .
Nice work Good luck with the rest.....Oh a possible tip, stop alienating a large 5 of your potential subscribers with the music you play. Just say-in
What kind of music do you want to hear?
ahh,1975 cheese grater
Mucha pasta..!