1:40-1:45 (Metric Conversion) -- There are only 2 types of Country's in this world. Those who use the metric system, and those who've been to the moon.
Great video! Another good suggestion is that if you use a lubricant on the valves make sure that you use a silicone base lube. You should never put oil based lube on plastic because over time the oil product will dissolve the plastic and 0 ring.
Excellent video with lots of very useful tips. Thank you very much. Can you provide us with the name of the supplier that you used to purchase the checkvalves? 👍👍👍
I have the same model with the same problem EXACTLY! Just ordered a new valve kit for heavy duty application. The guy I talked to said that letting it idle even for a few minutes can damage the light duty check valves. After all try are just plastic! Cost was $16 plus $9 shipping.beter than buying a new pump.
After I changed all the 6 valves, unloaded, pressure vale, checked everything I still had low pressure. Most over looked replacement for low pressure problems. Remove the high pressure hose from the PW, this high pressure hose is attached to the 3" high pressure pipe, remove this 3" pipe, now after removing pipe look back inside the pipe still attached to the PW, yes there it is "The Jet", unscrew the jet (screwdriver left), after the turning stops, you need to pull the jet out, not easy, what I did, I hooked the PW to the garden hose and the water pressure pushed it out, be careful not to lose the jet parts , (back jet, spring, front jet), small pin hole need to be cleaned out, also the jet may need to be replaced, this is where my problem was, worn jet, easy.... Lee
CLR would probably be better at getting the calcium scale out than carb cleaner. Hydrogen peroxide also. Grease on the rubber will degrade it unless the grease is made for that such as silicone grease.
One of the nastiest design Fork Up's I've seen common to just about ALL these pumps is the long connection tubes for both the inlet and outlet. These are totally exposed on the bottom of the machine and careless handling can easily break them off. I had a new pump that I paid about $70 - I broke it loading or unloading the machine from my truck. These long necks really should be shielded from damage or supported so they don't have stress applied to them. If you move your machine frequently installing some kind of skid plate over them will be worthwhile insurance.
Very informative video. However if you listen close at the very end he gives the best advice. "If you ain't using a power washer all the time, just rent one. It ain't worth it."
Rent 1 twice and you could buy one. That's dumb. If you are a home owner you need one, PERIOD. Read the Owner's Manual and understand HOW to take care of your stuff, it lasts much longer. I Had a Crapsman 2400 PSI that lasted for 19 years. yep, I was amazed too. Just got a NEW Honda Engine one. I ordered a replacement pump for 130. Sold it for 200. Not worth the time IMHO.
@diver dave Perhaps Dan. However, renting one costs $80 per day or more for a really good one and owning one cost 4-800 Bucks. 10 Rentals buys it. If you only need to use one once in a blue moon then rent it of course. However, Owning one is a responsibility which includes reading the owners manual. If I lived in Minnesota I would rent one. I live in sunny South Florida and have owned one for my home since 2000. The first one lasted 17 years, before the pump failed, I bought a newer more powerful one, replaced the pump and sold the old one. Used it perhaps 3 times a year, and my friends and family borrowed it far more than that. I will always own one, they are indispensable. However freezing temps have killed more pumps than I could count cause folks DO NOT Read The Owners Manual. Sort of the same in Life, if you do not read God's Owners Manual, your body will fall into disrepair as well, and your spirit, Oh My.
I agree with the comments that this was very clear explanation of the process of rebuilding a pump. Thanks. My question is whether and how the top half of the pump can be serviced, the assembly that contains the oil and the squash plate? Mine's leaking oil, so I figure some gasket or o-ring failed not in the lower part, but in the upper housing, the part that contains the key-way for the crank shaft. BTW, I already bought an entire new pump for $110 and put it on. I'm just curious about what would be involved if I'd tried to effect a repair on it.
Love the vid..Do another one about the unloader valve. Nice shop. Retired guy staying busy and saving money. Fix it up, wear it out, , make do or do without.
As mentioned before sanding the inside our hot white vinegar will break down the calcification that going on in the pump head. I am going to try the 1/4" screw to get those pesky little valves out. (Hardest part of the job!!)
Why did you put white PTFE tape on the valve threads? PTFE is to prevent thread galling on pipe threads as they start to narrow down to a full metal-to-metal seal. Those aren't pipe threads.. the seal is from the o-ring right? I think I'd follow Sear's lead on this one... blue Lock-tite on the clean threads should help keep those baby's in.
suggestion: To remove hard water scale in that aluminum casting... use Simple Green solvent (WalMart has it) and a old tooth brush. Formula 409 (a degreaser), or CLR (not safe on metals other than Stainless and chrome) won't work. Make sure it's Simple Green and you can save yourself the emory cloth tool for the real stubborn parts. ;)
joesphx19 I decided it wasn't worth the time and effort. So, I found through others that PWPump.com is the way to go. A new pump was $149 and was an upgrade. Even still, the pump is rated at 300+ hours. These things run high pressure and if there are plastic parts involved, well you get the idea that the life of the pump is limited, depending on the use. I figure that with deck cleaning, siding cleaning and driveway cleaning that would come to about 6 years. Sooo, new pump was the way to go for me.
Thanks, I knew ther had to be better pumps, that didn't use plastic parts, not like plastic is going to live a long life under extreme conditions. So did the new pump put out more pressure and work better? just like years gone by there's always a better mouse trap.
I used this pump to replace the pump on a Ecell 3100 PSI pump. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxEU8wdEWW31diRsOawsCNfWEho39M27qd The model # is PWZ0163100.02 for those looking for a matching pump. It went on very easily - 10 minutes at most. Feels like a lot more power than the original but that's to be expected. Can't tell a difference when cleaning with the wand or floor sprayer. Would recommend as it was cheaper than most I found. The maintenance free aspect is definitely a plus too. Have used it through about 6 tanks of gas and have zero issues so far.
Ivw gor one thats leaking in the middle of the pump assuming its coming via the white spacers with grooves cut in it that each piston goes through. Im thinking now its likely a faulty valvw or two. Thanks for the inspiration.
I had a nice pressure washer for about six years. Had an eleven horse Honda motor and was a real blaster! When fall came I always ran RV anti-freeze through it. Never had a problem with it. Very cheap insurance at like two-three bucks a gallon. Thanks for posting this vid.
Maybe it is worth it to buy the new pump after all then, for the sake of time and the headache? it just needs a pump saver liquid when storing it to stop freeze and corrosion etc
I have a washer with similar looking pump it has no pressure i took apart the pump the piston rods move up and down ok. The valves are stuck inside. It has 6 of them how can i remove them without damaging them? I am guessing the pump is clogged from minerals so i want to get everything out to soak it in a lime scale cleaner. The pump works off and on but mostly doesn't work just line pressure.
thank you hopefully that may be why my 5yr old craftsman 2700psi PW 7.5 briggs&stratton will be the reason why i was not getting any pressure then started blowing water from some where underneath,and like you I am also retired and have the time.thinking maybe the relief valve also.plan on getting into it this week 3/30/2015
Great video. I had a similar unit a buddy gave me about 25 years ago. He had bought it to use it in his building cleaning business but wasn't using it, so he gave it to me. I used it a lot, but after about 2 years, the pump went out. The replacement pump was about 75% the cost of a new one so I didn't want to go that route. Another buddy and I took the pump apart and he said it couldn't be fixed. I don't know why; I didn't inquire about replacement parts. It is possible that overuse by me and damage by my buddy -- I'm sure he ran the engine for a long time without spraying water -- did the pump in. At any rate, I decided to sell the engine since it was good. A guy bought it and something else from me, paid me what (I think $100, but I don't remember) and never came and got either item! He didn't have a truck and was going to have to get one and come back later, but I never heard from him. After waiting for him for 2 years (I never knew what to do with it), I finally gave the thing away. That washer had an interesting "life." Now you can buy replacement pumps for those consumer washers for a lot less than you could back then. They may be Chinese made pumps and they may not last more than a year or two but at least that's a reasonable option.
the crud or white stuff in the pump is calcium deposits from hard water CLR might work better than carborator cleaner whatever you do don't use anything that's going to pit aluminum metal. believe it or not vinegar might clean it out, also at the end of the year to protect the pump you can buy pump saver for both airless paint machines or what you have pressure washers. Now I don't know this for certain on my suggestions its just an idea. I've got a similar machine and I'm looking incase I need to service it at some point, I got mine for free because somone couldn't get it started they set it out for the trash, all I can say is 2-3 spirits of starting fluid in the air filter is all it took and this was a nearly brand new machine. Fires right up, then I spent 4 hours cleaning my deck that hasn't been cleaned in 17 years with it. That makes me wonder why people tear out treated decks just to buy new wood and rebuild if its not rotten wood? when a pressure washers gets it clean. Didn't american's use to make and fix shit? now its buy and replace shit because they don't know how to fix it or take the time to figure out how. I used to make stuff like this only a whole lot better. Yes Thanks for the Video I lernt somthin today. If you see someone threw out a pressure washer pick that sucker up and take it home, you might have just scored a 350 dollar toy for free. With a little work you'll be using it in no time, for no dime! Because you were trying Carb cleaner I'm gonna go on a limb and think you are a retired mechanic? And I wonder if there is an online source for replacement parts for pressure washers like you can find for Air compressors? I'd venture to say a better pump system could be found for the same motor mounting and shaft size. Just google it!
I replaced all 6 valves and I still do not have pressure coming out, I have the same exact pump in the video on my craftsman 2550psi. I noticed the pump was hot to the touch after only running for about a minute. No luck fixing mine :(
Great video. Good to see the valves mine are all broken and fell out I guess due to ice destroying them. But why not just remove the module and leave the pump attached to the motor is what I did? Just wondering if there was a reason for doing it this way, thanks.
If you're power washer freezes up and you "force it", the narrow gap between the three valves will crack with the pressure and your're forced to buy a new pump. Good advice at the end.........
I live in Hawaii. Had a pump with the exact issue where valves were blown through ports in the head. Definitely not freezing here. I believe unloader is sticking and pressure spike caused ur problem,. When demonstrating at end of the video I could hear engine loading up when the trigger was released. Another indication unloader is sticking. Always check or change unloader valve.
Hi,I have a Husky power washer 1600 psi,the motor run good but as soon as I turn the main water hose on,it turns off no matter what I do it won't turn back on until I turn off the water and it few minutes before it's back on. Please,what seems to be the problem?
Darn. The most frustrating part he didn't film. Pulling out the check valves. Sears online manual says to use sheet metal screws and they pull right out. Boy is that a joke.
The Works Toilet bowl cleaner works good for cleaning out the pump housing. It's basically just sulpheric acid. Just pour some in and let it soak for a while. Easy and cleans all the little orifices too. Vinegar could also be used and will take a bit longer.
Great video but my pump is not coming off - got the bolts out pretty easily but it is not dropping off the shaft. Would appreciate any guidance. Thanks in advanced
Not really repaired. The unloader valve was not unloading correctly when the trigger was let go. That's why he shut it down so quickly. Engine was trying to stall when trigger was released.
Pressure washers that look like that you know look like brand new they must not be made very well they might be made to make money seems to me like something that looks that knew shouldn't be having no trouble unless it is made crappy anyway
At about 13:55 where you show putting the plastic keepers in. Those plastic "keepers" have grooves in them spaced at about 90 degrees. The mounting plate where the keepers go in also has grooves. Should the grooves in the plastic keepers line up with the grooves in the mounting plate? If yes, how? Thanks.
I would almost think twice about putting Teflon tape on it the O-ring should stop at thing from leaking that Teflon tape might get in the system but I don't know how I do sometimes I do the same stuff
Working on a friends power washer for him first time ever learning all about them thanks for all the info I had hard timing pulling few of my check valves out an I don't the same stuff for sure
thanks for the video . I have a Troy Built which appears to be the same Black&Decker as your Craftsman. Your right just rent em. I have had a major problem with the uploader valve. I too am retired and don't want to keep throwing money at it. I think I have reached the "old Fart " stage and think everything sold is junk. Thanks again for good video . VERY HELPFULL. Tony
At 11.05 you were putting a valve into one of the piston guides and tapping it in with a dowel rod. Then you cut to the last one going in it's proper valve housing (the three in a line).
This is actually a Sears branded Troy Bilt power washer. The pump assembly is made by Briggs. I have to say, this is one of the best videos I have seen on repairing this particular pump. The only thing I would add is that if someone has this style pump and those valves check out ok, look at the unloader valve. If there is no pressure at all, the unloader valve should be the first review. Thanks again for a really smart video.
Great step by step video that helped rebuild my TroyBbilt SRWM2.2G26D pump. I removed all the parts and placed the pump head in hot white vinegar and blew it out after an hour with the air compressor. I particularly liked the idea of using 1/4 wood screws to pull out the stuck valves. Using the wood screws is about the only way to get them out............
That is not a "sensor", its a thermal relief valve to open if the water gets too hot from running the pressure washer without pulling the wand trigger.
I'm fixing mine now and the plastic piece from the valve went thru the hole to the other side too and it didn't freeze! I don't get how that thing got pushed thru either!
I have the exact pump on my pressure washer. My machine is got troy bult stickers on it, instead of craftman. Anywho, where did you get your parts,? Who did you order from? I'm having a problem with the soap dispenser. It's not dispensing the soap while in operation. I'm thinking it must be one of those valves you replaced. Your info is greatly appreciated.
Got my parts from Sears Parts Direct. I used the phone but you can order on line. The video is 6 yrs ago so not sure if parts are still available for this model. Good Luck!
when installing the 3 allen head bolts they must be torqued to spec. It puts pressure on your seals and the pressure has to be consistent it can make a difference in performance. Also, put anti-seize on the shaft, eventually it will rust to the pump and never come off. One last thing, if possible never store your pressure washer outdoors, it will freeze, rust, corrosion, water in the gas, it destroys them (even newer ones). Store them in the garage and they will last years.
Per chance, do you know what the part number is for the thing you called a "sensor" at 12:30? Do you know what it does? The black plastic piece is broken on mine and I'm wondering if I need to replace it. I don't know what the nozzle is for and perhaps you do?
great detailed video. but the ball behind the spring of the unloader is stuck inside thats why i had to take it apart. I have blown through the other holes to try and force air through the blow out the ball bearing but it wont come out. i have it soaking over night in some PBlaster. any ideas if that doest work?
I saw a video where you have to block the air from getting out the big hole, He blasted air into the water inlet and it came out. I will try to find that video
I'm working on the exact same power washer. I replace the water pump as it was cracked and now I cannot get the engine to rev up to give me high water pressure. Any idea why or ideas what I can check to see what the problem is? Thank you
Not sure exactly what the problem is since it's a new pump. Just a few comments: 1. Make sure you never start the motor without water flowing threw the pump. A dry pump will quickly heat up and ruin the nylon check valves that produce the pressure. 2. If the motor is not reaching the proper RPMs then disconnect the pump and try it without any load. You should be able to determine if the motor is running properly or if the pump was causing too much load due to a defective pump. Good Luck !
1:40-1:45 (Metric Conversion) -- There are only 2 types of Country's in this world. Those who use the metric system, and those who've been to the moon.
This is the best rebuild video I've found for this pump! Thanks so much!!!
Great video! Another good suggestion is that if you use a lubricant on the valves make sure that you use a silicone base lube. You should never put oil based lube on plastic because over time the oil product will dissolve the plastic and 0 ring.
Thank you for this, same pump on a Troy Bilt and can be fixed!
Excellent video with lots of very useful tips. Thank you very much. Can you provide us with the name of the supplier that you used to purchase the checkvalves? 👍👍👍
I have the same model with the same problem EXACTLY! Just ordered a new valve kit for heavy duty application. The guy I talked to said that letting it idle even for a few minutes can damage the light duty check valves. After all try are just plastic! Cost was $16 plus $9 shipping.beter than buying a new pump.
After I changed all the 6 valves, unloaded, pressure vale, checked everything I still had low pressure.
Most over looked replacement for low pressure problems.
Remove the high pressure hose from the PW, this high pressure hose is attached to the 3" high pressure pipe, remove this 3" pipe, now after removing pipe look back inside the pipe still attached to the PW, yes there it is "The Jet",
unscrew the jet (screwdriver left), after the turning stops, you need to pull the jet out, not easy, what I did, I hooked the PW to the garden hose and the water pressure pushed it out, be careful not to lose the jet parts , (back jet, spring, front jet), small pin hole need to be cleaned out, also the jet may need to be replaced, this is where my problem was, worn jet, easy....
Lee
CLR would probably be better at getting the calcium scale out than carb cleaner. Hydrogen peroxide also. Grease on the rubber will degrade it unless the grease is made for that such as silicone grease.
You need to buy an oscilating tip for your washer if you ever think you would need to clean something dirty.
That's the cleanest work room I've ever seen!
his whole place was Clean, means he knows what he's doing.
Thought the same thing.
One of the nastiest design Fork Up's I've seen common to just about ALL these pumps is the long connection tubes for both the inlet and outlet. These are totally exposed on the bottom of the machine and careless handling can easily break them off. I had a new pump that I paid about $70 - I broke it loading or unloading the machine from my truck. These long necks really should be shielded from damage or supported so they don't have stress applied to them. If you move your machine frequently installing some kind of skid plate over them will be worthwhile insurance.
Good video 😊Blessings 💯 🤗 🙏
New pumps on Walmart, Ebay, Amazon for $75
Very informative video. However if you listen close at the very end he gives the best advice. "If you ain't using a power washer all the time, just rent one. It ain't worth it."
Rent 1 twice and you could buy one. That's dumb. If you are a home owner you need one, PERIOD. Read the Owner's Manual and understand HOW to take care of your stuff, it lasts much longer. I Had a Crapsman 2400 PSI that lasted for 19 years. yep, I was amazed too. Just got a NEW Honda Engine one. I ordered a replacement pump for 130. Sold it for 200. Not worth the time IMHO.
@diver dave Perhaps Dan. However, renting one costs $80 per day or more for a really good one and owning one cost 4-800 Bucks. 10 Rentals buys it. If you only need to use one once in a blue moon then rent it of course. However, Owning one is a responsibility which includes reading the owners manual. If I lived in Minnesota I would rent one. I live in sunny South Florida and have owned one for my home since 2000. The first one lasted 17 years, before the pump failed, I bought a newer more powerful one, replaced the pump and sold the old one. Used it perhaps 3 times a year, and my friends and family borrowed it far more than that. I will always own one, they are indispensable. However freezing temps have killed more pumps than I could count cause folks DO NOT Read The Owners Manual. Sort of the same in Life, if you do not read God's Owners Manual, your body will fall into disrepair as well, and your spirit, Oh My.
I let mind freeze up too. I'm ordering a kit and thanks for your the instructional video
I agree with the comments that this was very clear explanation of the process of rebuilding a pump. Thanks. My question is whether and how the top half of the pump can be serviced, the assembly that contains the oil and the squash plate? Mine's leaking oil, so I figure some gasket or o-ring failed not in the lower part, but in the upper housing, the part that contains the key-way for the crank shaft. BTW, I already bought an entire new pump for $110 and put it on. I'm just curious about what would be involved if I'd tried to effect a repair on it.
Like the guy before me said it is the best video on rebuilding this pump i have ever seen. Thank you
Love the vid..Do another one about the unloader valve. Nice shop. Retired guy staying busy and saving money. Fix it up, wear it out, , make do or do without.
Thank you.Your video helped me.
As mentioned before sanding the inside our hot white vinegar will break down the calcification that going on in the pump head. I am going to try the 1/4" screw to get those pesky little valves out. (Hardest part of the job!!)
Why did you put white PTFE tape on the valve threads? PTFE is to prevent thread galling on pipe threads as they start to narrow down to a full metal-to-metal seal. Those aren't pipe threads.. the seal is from the o-ring right?
I think I'd follow Sear's lead on this one... blue Lock-tite on the clean threads should help keep those baby's in.
BigDogsHunt100 yes locktite. teflon tape can work it's way into the inside of the pump, too. more risk.
ratoneJR of course
suggestion:
To remove hard water scale in that aluminum casting... use Simple Green solvent (WalMart has it) and a old tooth brush. Formula 409 (a degreaser), or CLR (not safe on metals other than Stainless and chrome) won't work. Make sure it's Simple Green and you can save yourself the emory cloth tool for the real stubborn parts. ;)
hola tengo una bomba igual me podria decie adon de puedo comprar ya sea la bomba o las partes.
BigDogsHunt100 Thanks for the tip, I am breaking into my pump tomorrow.
joesphx19 I decided it wasn't worth the time and effort. So, I found through others that PWPump.com is the way to go. A new pump was $149 and was an upgrade. Even still, the pump is rated at 300+ hours. These things run high pressure and if there are plastic parts involved, well you get the idea that the life of the pump is limited, depending on the use. I figure that with deck cleaning, siding cleaning and driveway cleaning that would come to about 6 years. Sooo, new pump was the way to go for me.
Thanks, I knew ther had to be better pumps, that didn't use plastic parts, not like plastic is going to live a long life under extreme conditions.
So did the new pump put out more pressure and work better?
just like years gone by there's always a better mouse trap.
hang on Harold, too much power may take you down.
excellent video ! thanks - i ordered my valves and just waiting on them at this point. very informative
I used this pump to replace the pump on a Ecell 3100 PSI pump. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxEU8wdEWW31diRsOawsCNfWEho39M27qd The model # is PWZ0163100.02 for those looking for a matching pump. It went on very easily - 10 minutes at most. Feels like a lot more power than the original but that's to be expected. Can't tell a difference when cleaning with the wand or floor sprayer. Would recommend as it was cheaper than most I found. The maintenance free aspect is definitely a plus too. Have used it through about 6 tanks of gas and have zero issues so far.
These are the same valves for multiple models Part # 200344gs , also available from Amazon and Ebay
For cleaning the hardwater scale stuff, vinegar or The Works toilet bowl cleaner works fantastic. Just keep off your hands as it's rather strong acid. The scale is literally dissolved in seconds.
Valve kit for pressure washersGenuine briggs and stratton partReplaces briggs and stratton parts 193257dgs, 198974gs, and 193257egsConsult owners manual for proper part number identificationThis is a Briggs and Stratton valve kit for pressure washers.BRIGGS AND STRATTON POWER PRODUCTS -- 020290-0 2,000 PSI,
020290-1 2,000 PSI, 020291-2 2,500 PSI, 020291-3 2,500 PSI, 020291-4 2,500 PSI,
020301-1 2,500 PSI, 020301-2 2,500 PSI, 020306-2 2,500 PSI, 020489 3000 PSI,
Pressure WasherTROY BILT -- 020293-2 2,550 PSI, 020296-1 2,550 PSI,
020344-0 2,500 PSI Pressure WasherBriggs and Stratton Power Products020266-2 - 2,200 PSI Craftsman020273-2 - 2,550 PSI Briggs & Stratton020278-0 - 2,500 PSI Craftsman020290-0 - 2,000 PSI Brute020290-1 - 2,000 PSI Brute020291-2 - 2,500 PSI Brute020291-3 - 2,500 PSI Brute020291-4 - 2,500 PSI Brute020293-2 - 2,550 PSI Troy-Bilt020296-1 - 2,500 PSI Troy-Bilt020301-1 - 2,500 PSI Brute020301-2 - 2,500 PSI Brute020301-3 - 2,500 PSI Brute020306-2 - 2,500 PSI Briggs & Stratton020306-3 - 2,500 PSI Briggs & Stratton020306-4 - 2,500 PSI Briggs & Stratton020337-1 - 2,550 PSI Troy-Bilt020337-2 - 2,550 PSI Troy-Bilt020338-0 - 2,500 PSI Brute020340-0 - 2,500 PSI Briggs & Stratton020344-0 - 2,500 PSI Troy-Bilt020344-1 - 2,500 PSI Troy-Bilt020344-2 - 2,500 PSI Troy-Bilt020349-0 - 2,550 PSI Troy-Bilt020349-1 - 2,550 PSI Troy-Bilt020359-0 - 2,500 PSI Brute020375-0 - 2,500 PSI Brute020378-0 - 2,500 PSI Briggs & Stratton020378-02 - 2,500 PSI Briggs & Stratton020378-1 - 2,500 PSI Briggs & Stratton020385-0 - 2,500 PSI Brute020386-0 - 2,600 PSI Brute020386-1 - 2,600 PSI Brute020388-0 - 2,550 PSI Briggs & Stratton020392-0 - 2,600 PSI Craftsman020400-0 - 2,550 PSI Briggs & Stratton020409-0 - 2,500 PSI Brute020410-1 - 2,550 PSI Craftsman020413-02 - 2,500 PSI Troy-Bilt020413-1 - 2,500 PSI Troy-Bilt020416-1 - 3,000 PSI Troy-Bilt020419-0 - 2,500 PSI Briggs & Stratton020419-1 - 2,500 PSI Briggs & Stratton020420-0 - 2,500 PSI Briggs & Stratton020420-1 - 2,500 PSI Briggs & Stratton020421-02 - 2,500 PSI Troy-Bilt020421-1 - 2,500 PSI Troy-Bilt020426-2 - 2,400 PSI Brute020430-1 - 2,500 PSI Craftsman020431-1 - 2,500 PSI Craftsman020435-2 - 3,000 PSI Craftsman020436-2 - 3,000 PSI Craftsman020440-0 - 2,500 PSI Briggs & Stratton020446-1 - 2,200 PSI Power Boss020446-2 - 2,200 PSI PowerBoss020447-0 - 2,500 PSI Power Boss020447-1 - 2,500 PSI Power Boss020448-0 - 3,000 PSI Power Boss020451-1 - 3,000 PSI Briggs & Stratton020452-0 - 3,000 PSI Briggs & Stratton020453-0 - 2,600 PSI Power Boss020453-1 - 2,600 PSI Power Boss020456-1 - 2,400 PSI Murray020458-0 - 2,200 PSI SpeedClean020460-0 - 2,200 PSI SpeedClean020461-0 - 2,500 PSI Briggs & Stratton020473-0 - 3,000 PSI Briggs & Stratton020474-0 - 2,600 PSI Diamond020474-01 - 2,600 PSI Diamond020475-0 - 2,200 PSI Briggs & Stratton020489-00 - 3,000 PSI Troy-Bilt020491-00 - 2,500 PSI Craftsman020491-01 - 2,500 PSI Craftsman020492-00 - 2,700 PSI Craftsman020499-00 - 2,400 PSI Murray020499-01 - 2,400 PSI Murray020500-00 - 2,500 PSI Briggs & Stratton020500-01 - 2,500 PSI Briggs & Stratton020503-00 - 3,000 PSI Briggs & Stratton020513-00 - 2,500 PSI Brute020514-00 - 2,600 PSI Brute020527-00 - 2,600 PSI Speed Clean020528-00 - 2,600 PSI Troy-Bilt020528-01 - 2,600 PSI Troy-Bilt020531-00 - 2,500 PSI Craftsman020531-01 - 2,500 PSI Craftsman020536-00 - 2,000 PSI Briggs & Stratton020537-00 - 2,500 PSI Briggs & Stratton020537-01 - 2,500 PSI Briggs & Stratton020543-00 - 2,500 PSI Craftsman020543-01 - 2,500 PSI Craftsman020544-00 - 580.750900, 2,200 PSI Cra...020544-02 - 580.750900, 2,200 PSI Cra...020553-00 - 2,200 PSI Brute020557-00 - 2,500 PSI Briggs & Stratton020588-00 - 2,500 PSI Briggs & Stratton020633-00 - 2,500 PSI Briggs & Stratton
mrmotofy I tried vinegar,but didn't do anything.
mrmotofy
Great video... just an FYI you can buy the pump new on Ebay for $63.
Thank you Sir!
Your excellent efforts are very much appreciated, You apparently are a great American.
God Bless America, and Our Marines.
Ivw gor one thats leaking in the middle of the pump assuming its coming via the white spacers with grooves cut in it that each piston goes through. Im thinking now its likely a faulty valvw or two. Thanks for the inspiration.
I had a nice pressure washer for about six years. Had an eleven horse Honda motor and was a real blaster! When fall came I always ran RV anti-freeze through it. Never had a problem with it. Very cheap insurance at like two-three bucks a gallon. Thanks for posting this vid.
Cost 19 to 29 per gallon now
@Prince Prince You're thinking of cooling system antifreeze. He's using the kind for drain traps and tanks. I use it too in my pump and it's cheap.
Maybe it is worth it to buy the new pump after all then, for the sake of time and the headache? it just needs a pump saver liquid when storing it to stop freeze and corrosion etc
I have a washer with similar looking pump it has no pressure i took apart the pump the piston rods move up and down ok. The valves are stuck inside. It has 6 of them how can i remove them without damaging them? I am guessing the pump is clogged from minerals so i want to get everything out to soak it in a lime scale cleaner. The pump works off and on but mostly doesn't work just line pressure.
Where can i get 1 of those white plastic valves from, i know i cant order just 1 but where can i get um
You can find the correct valves at www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0042VK1XY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
thank you hopefully that may be why my 5yr old craftsman 2700psi PW 7.5 briggs&stratton will be the reason why i was not getting any pressure then started blowing water from some where underneath,and like you I am also retired and have the time.thinking maybe the relief valve also.plan on getting into it this week 3/30/2015
Vinegar might get that scale out. It's commonly used for it in coffee pots.
Great video. I had a similar unit a buddy gave me about 25 years ago. He had bought it to use it in his building cleaning business but wasn't using it, so he gave it to me. I used it a lot, but after about 2 years, the pump went out. The replacement pump was about 75% the cost of a new one so I didn't want to go that route. Another buddy and I took the pump apart and he said it couldn't be fixed. I don't know why; I didn't inquire about replacement parts. It is possible that overuse by me and damage by my buddy -- I'm sure he ran the engine for a long time without spraying water -- did the pump in. At any rate, I decided to sell the engine since it was good. A guy bought it and something else from me, paid me what (I think $100, but I don't remember) and never came and got either item! He didn't have a truck and was going to have to get one and come back later, but I never heard from him. After waiting for him for 2 years (I never knew what to do with it), I finally gave the thing away. That washer had an interesting "life." Now you can buy replacement pumps for those consumer washers for a lot less than you could back then. They may be Chinese made pumps and they may not last more than a year or two but at least that's a reasonable option.
the crud or white stuff in the pump is calcium deposits from hard water CLR might work better than carborator cleaner whatever you do don't use anything that's going to pit aluminum metal. believe it or not vinegar might clean it out, also at the end of the year to protect the pump you can buy pump saver for both airless paint machines or what you have pressure washers. Now I don't know this for certain on my suggestions its just an idea. I've got a similar machine and I'm looking incase I need to service it at some point,
I got mine for free because somone couldn't get it started they set it out for the trash, all I can say is 2-3 spirits of starting fluid in the air filter is all it took and this was a nearly brand new machine. Fires right up, then I spent 4 hours cleaning my deck that hasn't been cleaned in 17 years with it. That makes me wonder why people tear out treated decks just to buy new wood and rebuild if its not rotten wood? when a pressure washers gets it clean.
Didn't american's use to make and fix shit? now its buy and replace shit because they don't know how to fix it or take the time to figure out how. I used to make stuff like this only a whole lot better.
Yes Thanks for the Video I lernt somthin today.
If you see someone threw out a pressure washer pick that sucker up and take it home, you might have just scored a 350 dollar toy for free. With a little work you'll be using it in no time, for no dime!
Because you were trying Carb cleaner I'm gonna go on a limb and think you are a retired mechanic?
And I wonder if there is an online source for replacement parts for pressure washers like you can find for Air compressors? I'd venture to say a better pump system could be found for the same motor mounting and shaft size.
Just google it!
I replaced all 6 valves and I still do not have pressure coming out, I have the same exact pump in the video on my craftsman 2550psi. I noticed the pump was hot to the touch after only running for about a minute. No luck fixing mine :(
i seen another video the plastic washer were other way upside down with grooves lined up with nothcheS?
Great video. Good to see the valves mine are all broken and fell out I guess due to ice destroying them. But why not just remove the module and leave the pump attached to the motor is what I did? Just wondering if there was a reason for doing it this way, thanks.
If you're power washer freezes up and you "force it", the narrow gap between the three valves will crack with the pressure and your're forced to buy a new pump. Good advice at the end.........
I live in Hawaii. Had a pump with the exact issue where valves were blown through ports in the head. Definitely not freezing here. I believe unloader is sticking and pressure spike caused ur problem,.
When demonstrating at end of the video I could hear engine loading up when the trigger was released. Another indication unloader is sticking. Always check or change unloader valve.
Hi,I have a Husky power washer 1600 psi,the motor run good but as soon as I turn the main water hose on,it turns off no matter what I do it won't turn back on until I turn off the water and it few minutes before it's back on. Please,what seems to be the problem?
Darn. The most frustrating part he didn't film. Pulling out the check valves. Sears online manual says to use sheet metal screws and they pull right out. Boy is that a joke.
Hey bud! thank you for posting this video. Part numbers and the walk thru helped fix my machine. Great video. Thank you Thank you!!
The Works Toilet bowl cleaner works good for cleaning out the pump housing. It's basically just sulpheric acid. Just pour some in and let it soak for a while. Easy and cleans all the little orifices too. Vinegar could also be used and will take a bit longer.
Great video but my pump is not coming off - got the bolts out pretty easily but it is not dropping off the shaft. Would appreciate any guidance. Thanks in advanced
The ball in the easy start port is stuck...how can i release it...thanks
Not really repaired. The unloader valve was not unloading correctly when the trigger was let go. That's why he shut it down so quickly. Engine was trying to stall when trigger was released.
Excellent video, perfect work station and shop, beautiful yard. Everything about your video is inspiring. Thanks.
Pressure washers that look like that you know look like brand new they must not be made very well they might be made to make money seems to me like something that looks that knew shouldn't be having no trouble unless it is made crappy anyway
Like that "croakus cloth" rig. I'm 62 and had never heard it called that. Great video and love that patio with shelter.
👍👍
At about 13:55 where you show putting the plastic keepers in. Those plastic "keepers" have grooves in them spaced at about 90 degrees. The mounting plate where the keepers go in also has grooves. Should the grooves in the plastic keepers line up with the grooves in the mounting plate? If yes, how?
Thanks.
Not necessary to line them up.
I was wondering the same thing. LOL.
I would almost think twice about putting Teflon tape on it the O-ring should stop at thing from leaking that Teflon tape might get in the system but I don't know how I do sometimes I do the same stuff
Working on a friends power washer for him first time ever learning all about them thanks for all the info I had hard timing pulling few of my check valves out an I don't the same stuff for sure
Great video, it was a pleasure to watch and learn from. Thanks
COD.2233 part number on Amazon. 15.00 shipping free for check valves. Thanks for detailed video helped me a lot.
thanks for the video . I have a Troy Built which appears to be the same Black&Decker as your Craftsman. Your right just rent em. I have had a major problem with the uploader valve. I too am retired and don't want to keep throwing money at it. I think I have reached the "old Fart " stage and think everything sold is junk. Thanks again for good video . VERY HELPFULL.
Tony
9:59 do not sand it!!!! Use vinegar to remove limescale.
boiling in a white vinegar solution would remove the scale, but open the windows in your kitchen!
Good video. I learned!
At 11.05 you were putting a valve into one of the piston guides and tapping it in with a dowel rod. Then you cut to the last one going in it's proper valve housing (the three in a line).
Great video. I live in Florida and my button went down in the port. How I don't know. Heated a screwdriver to get them out. Thanks
First as long as the pumps last they should be 20 or $30 for a pump cuz it sounds like they sell millions of them
I would of like to see you battel getting those valves out .I got same problem and I keep mine in the home never froze
hrumple, did your fix work as good as new?
Did the o rings last swimming pool grease would have been better Lukas is synthetic so maybe it didn't eat them up ?
I thoroughly enjoyed your video thank you. I paid the most attention to the last sentence. Unfortunately they are just too handy to have around!
This is actually a Sears branded Troy Bilt power washer. The pump assembly is made by Briggs. I have to say, this is one of the best videos I have seen on repairing this particular pump. The only thing I would add is that if someone has this style pump and those valves check out ok, look at the unloader valve. If there is no pressure at all, the unloader valve should be the first review. Thanks again for a really smart video.
I just took out my unloader valve, worked the spring, lubed the O rings, and now it works. It should always be checked first.
look on e bay valves are over half that price.
How to shutoff on gun pressure wàsher
joesphx19 to
Where is the unloader valve?
New lower assembly is 60 bucks new.
Why is water going into my solution tank?
Great step by step video that helped rebuild my TroyBbilt SRWM2.2G26D pump. I removed all the parts and placed the pump head in hot white vinegar and blew it out after an hour with the air compressor. I particularly liked the idea of using 1/4 wood screws to pull out the stuck valves. Using the wood screws is about the only way to get them out............
That is not a "sensor", its a thermal relief valve to open if the water gets too hot from running the pressure washer without pulling the wand trigger.
I'm fixing mine now and the plastic piece from the valve went thru the hole to the other side too and it didn't freeze! I don't get how that thing got pushed thru either!
I have the exact pump on my pressure washer. My machine is got troy bult stickers on it, instead of craftman. Anywho, where did you get your parts,? Who did you order from?
I'm having a problem with the soap dispenser. It's not dispensing the soap while in operation. I'm thinking it must be one of those valves you replaced. Your info is greatly appreciated.
Got my parts from Sears Parts Direct. I used the phone but you can order on line. The video is 6 yrs ago so not sure if parts are still available for this model. Good Luck!
when installing the 3 allen head bolts they must be torqued to spec. It puts pressure on your seals and the pressure has to be consistent it can make a difference in performance. Also, put anti-seize on the shaft, eventually it will rust to the pump and never come off. One last thing, if possible never store your pressure washer outdoors, it will freeze, rust, corrosion, water in the gas, it destroys them (even newer ones). Store them in the garage and they will last years.
Great Vid, the unloader was not the problem, guessing those little valves are stuck.thanks !
Per chance, do you know what the part number is for the thing you called a "sensor" at 12:30? Do you know what it does? The black plastic piece is broken on mine and I'm wondering if I need to replace it. I don't know what the nozzle is for and perhaps you do?
That's not a sensor. It's a port to hook up a hose to run soap/cleaning solution through the washer.
Nice job sir. I was able to get a new pump for $101.00 USD. Can you order the piston rings separately? Thanks very instructive. Maccanuck
Bernard Gallacher If you don't mind can you tell us where and a part # Many thanks.
Why would you not take off the unloader valve and clean/lune it?!?
What grade oil goes into pump
Wow! Excellent video. Thank you
I'm proud of you, BTW can I borrow that pressure washer this weekend?
I haveto fix mine soon, thanks for the video.
Xlnt video. Could you tell me where to find those parts?
Thanks so much I have the same pump this helps me enourmously . Best video so far
Do you know the part number for that little plastic keeper piece? Mine broke
Where did you get the rebuild kit?
What Metric size are those bolts\screws that you removed from the water pump to the frame?
great detailed video. but the ball behind the spring of the unloader is stuck inside thats why i had to take it apart. I have blown through the other holes to try and force air through the blow out the ball bearing but it wont come out. i have it soaking over night in some PBlaster. any ideas if that doest work?
I saw a video where you have to block the air from getting out the big hole, He blasted air into the water inlet and it came out. I will try to find that video
Dang did not know you could rebuild took mine apart years ago.. and left it apart.. lol
I got one of those little small plastic tips jammed all the way down in the nozzle. Any ideas how to get it out?
THX for your tutorial... my question is: how much oil should i put into the piston area of the pump?
How to fix a Clarke jet 6000 power washer ? Can anybody help me plz
I'm working on the exact same power washer. I replace the water pump as it was cracked and now I cannot get the engine to rev up to give me high water pressure. Any idea why or ideas what I can check to see what the problem is? Thank you
Not sure exactly what the problem is since it's a new pump. Just a few comments: 1. Make sure you never start the motor without water flowing threw the pump. A dry pump will quickly heat up and ruin the nylon check valves that produce the pressure. 2. If the motor is not reaching the proper RPMs then disconnect the pump and try it without any load. You should be able to determine if the motor is running properly or if the pump was causing too much load due to a defective pump. Good Luck !
I just bought some of these parts and had a heck of time putting them in .Any suggestions on what I can do.?
Kinda worthless video not showing entire repair!
Same pump $100 on ebay
a brand-new AR pump for that unit on Amazon can be had for about $80-$90.
Absolute best video I have seen on fixing a power washer pump of this kind. Great Job !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!