Thanks. I know nothing about these pumps, but pretty good at fixing things. Reckon mine needs a new repair kit. Took it apart yesterday, cleaned it, put back together, still no pressure. It's a yard sale pump, but engine is like new. I try to fix .
found this in an on-line manual for this pump:Special Note: Use only AR64545 for the XJ/SJ/BK/RMW Series pumps only: Do NOT changeoil. Use oil only to add if low. This oil is a specially formulated synthetic with special additivesfor the demands of the XJ, SJ, BK and RMW pump series. No other oil is factoryapproved for these pumps, and could result in pump failure.
Any iso 100 / sae 30 should work…. There’s no special formulation. It’s a pump. Dont use motor oil. Dont use gear oil. It’s that simple. Anti water additives might help. Use Amsoil if you want
@@metallitech gear oil 75w-90 or 85w-90 ..... That why it says on the side of my AR pump I read that manual too... They put special detergents in it so as not to mix with water. The pump I picked up was full of water and not oil....it all leaked out of main seal
What kind of oil goes into that pump. Many say ND w30. some say Synthetic Gear oil 75w90 and other say Marine gear oil w90. I bought usef pressure washer and I don't know how the last owner use it. I want to be sure that oil is clean and fresh to lube correctly and prevent overheating.
I have two or the RMW2.2G24 pumps. Neither pump functions. Are these pumps supposed to have flow from the garden hose through the pump head and out the high pressure outlet. Neither pump has flow either with or without the engine running. Thoughts?
@@Assassin1710 I tore down both pumps and found that the check valves had broken and parts were blocking the discharge port. Basically trashed the pumps as parts are expensive and new pumps are not (Chinese imports).
how does one tell if the unloader is defective/bad? when I remove the unloader and then tighten the nuts back on the unloader the shaft does not move if I press down on it. If the nut is not tighten the shaft does move. This unloader is not like the other type of unloader on UA-cam. Any help/advise is appreciated.
Hi Joe, did you eventually fix your issue? I might take out my unloader and see if it's causing any problems. I think the head is supposed to move back and forth. If not, then maybe I'll have to replace it. Not sure though, just basing that off of other unloader issues I've seen online.
The thing to do with the unloader is remove it from the machine. The unloader has a very stiff spring inside. You can't compress it by hand. You can put it in a vise to try it. Better yet, you can take it apart. Once the spring is removed, you can move the piston back and forth by hand. Clean all the components and re-assemble.
@@mot611 I did this today. The spring was very clean with factory grease. I took it all the way apart and put a little 90w marine oil in it while moving the piston. It moves good. I reassembled everything then reinstalled it into the manifold as 1 piece. Don't know if it fixed my problem though. I ran out of after work time lol. The issue is my pressure washer feels and sounds like its building pressure but when I squeeze the trigger it pops off really hard pressure then just a small stream like the motor isn't running.
I do it by removing the pump(since it's only 3 bolts), removing the plastic oil plug, draining out the old oil, then adding the new oil. The pump doesn't hold much oil. With the pump sitting level, just fill it till it starts to run out the drain hole, then put the drain plug back in and don't over tighten it. Or just check your manual or Google to find the exact amount of oil your pump takes and add it.
Your not suppose to change it, it is a special oil designed for that pump I would only change it if you can guarantee that you have the right product read your manual
My AR SRMW2.2G26 pump requires a long M6 bolt to remove and replace the unloader valve seat (## THE VIDEO SAYS 5mm ##). My new unloader valve came with a M6 bolt. Unfortunately my pressure washer still shuts down when i release the spray wand handle. Looks like i wasted $28.
@@TheTenthManOnUA-cam Thanks - i'll check to see if there are provisions for adjustment. I just happened to use my pressure washer this morning for the first time this year. It shut down once but otherwise worked fine.
I have a karcher 2400 psi pressure washer. Engine is running fine but when i pull the trigger on the wand the water come out but has 1 second pauses in between and doesnt come out continously, any way to fix this?
I emptied all the oil out and realized it does not take 30 weight oil. Then I finally was able to obtain service manual and it says that you’re only supposed to add oil but unfortunately I emptied all of the oil out. Now what should I do is there some kind of starter oil that needs to be added that I can get as well? Or is the pump going to burn out and become trash?
I have 2 pressure washers with these AR pumps. B&S engines work perfectly, pumps don't. I took the pumps off and see the inlet valves will turn but the pressure valves are stuck and do not turn. I tried to pull them out using needle nose pliers but they break off in pieces. Does anyone have any suggestions. I sprayed carb cleaner in there but nothing helps.
My AR 22G24 -EZ-SX Makes plenty of pressure, but detergent pick up line will not pick up. I removed the chemical pick up nipple to see that there was no spring behind the bearing. Well at least no recognizable spring. There was a solid mass of grey gunk clogging the port. I sprayed it out but there is a dark grey plug remaining in the chem pick up port. I don't know if its a deteriorated seat or what, it is harder and darker than the stuff that came out first. Replacing the spring is not going to help if there is no opening between the chem pick up port and the discharge port. Anybody have any ideas?
Is their a video where you show how to replace the main oil seal, where shaft from motor joins the pump ?? I don't know what's under that seal which is why I don't wanna cut of it out or try and pry it out.... Besides it seems in their pretty good That and a video on replacing oil seals around the tri-piston set up
What’s the difference between RMW and SRMW? I’ve seen the same exact nomenclature for these pumps, but one has RMW, and the other has SMRW. Looking at the pic at start of this video I’m guessing the S denotes a higher quality pump. 🤔
Thanks Jason! I think I had finally figured it out but it’s been some time since I looked at these after buying a small electric pressure washer as a “temporary” replacement (which so far seems permanent). I had learned either pump will fit my machine but as you stated, the hole on the mount gives you access to the drain plug. Since the engine to my pump doesn’t have a drain plug, it then becomes a matter of whether I wanted the hose attachments facing forward or towards the rear of the cart it’s on.
I have a Rmw 2.2g24 on a TroyBilt with a Briggs & Stratton 675 10 y.o powerwasher from Lowes. It seems to have oozed out a very thick grey transmission fluid. Where do I buy this fluid, and what seal failed to account for this to leak.
I have a Briggs & Stratton pressure washer that I accidentally drained the Pump Oil instead of the Engine Oil. (Then realized my error and changed the Engine Oil before use, thinking it would fill the pump oil) I then ran the pressure washer for an hour. It made a screeching sound and I shut it off. If I add new Pump Oil, will it be ok? Will it/could it damage the engine? It's brand new but sat for a year.
So, you ran the pump with no oil in it. The engine should be fine. The top half of the pump took the damage. No telling how much damage. Add pump oil and run it. If it still screeches, your pump is shot. Sorry, I don't know enough to say if you can rebuild the top end.
@@mot611 You can get the parts but a new pump would be better. The bearings below and above the cam are probably galled and the plungers worn but you can always tear it down to see. Never know what you'll find.
I have this pump and unloader, my engine starts easy but in a second or two the pressure builds and loads the engine to the point of killing it, is this the unloader valve??? thanks
After replacing a new pump to my gas pressure washer, it worked great for a couple of hours, then suddenly the pressure is pulsating not constant high pressure water flow. Any ideas?
Could be Carburetor mine would surge if I ran it wide open ended up leaking seal but I would recommend putting pump oil in it if it's got to sit for a period of time
I broke the seal, dumped the old oil, and refilled it with new oil. Now, I broke the pump, it is jittery and crappy. All check valves are damaged and need to be changed. What is the secret of not breaking the seal? Are they vacuum sealing it?
Why do your details on these pumps rate the "Hours Of Service" at ONLY 50 Hours ? Are the pumps that cheaply built, as it even suggests on the box to use maximum 8 hours a week ? Do they require SERVICE after this period or are they just throw-away ?
Yes, these pumps can be serviced or rebuild after this period. We test these pumps out at 100 hours, the manufacturer of the pressure washer lists them as 50 hours because the average homeowner will only use it for that long in a lifetime. If you are looking for a pump that is made to work many hours in a day you should use a commercial grade triple plunger pump.
Love the cool-aid. Buy the pressure cleaner, pump rated even in a best case scenario to 100 hours. "Because the manufacturer expects that you would ONLY use it for that time....a blatant underestimation so you would buy again in three years or so". Meaning, for the typical homeowner use the pressure cleaner a few times and the pump would stop working. Thus, if you need a product that LASTS and it is actually RELIABLE then must purchase a commercial-rated product.
Yep. I agree with BOTH of you. I'm not "mad" about it though. I buy commercial product for ALL my tools. Makita vs Ryobi, Stihl vs Echo.Also, 100 hours winds up being a lot of time. If I power-wash my house and my deck, that's like 24 hours. Anything else I do, will be a :15 min job here and there. So, we're saying I have to rebuild my pump for $30 every 4 or 5 years. No big deal.Additionally, THIS machine is really too small to do decks and houses. It just doesn't have the volume and therefore takes way to long. Therefore, I should really be RENTING a commercial machine, which has the power/volume to get the job done properly. This would push the service life WAY out there.This machine is designed for small jobs like patio furniture and car rims etc.
Wheres the earl go? Wheres its cheech hole for shoving in the spoot to splooge some viscous ness in?? Do i just squeeze it in every hole ? Is how i usually do things if she'll let me.. breather, exhaust, intake, ear.. yea.. giggity...
Well... I just buy a new one for $70 because I cannot find the parts and why waste time doing all that. I used to repair things, now I am like the shops. My time is better spent just replacing a unit instead of a repair and pray.
Just make a video stating these pumps are garbage! After all it is true! I have Troy-built with a Honda GCV160 CC Engine. The Honda part is great the rest is absolutely Garbage. I've used Briggs & Stratton pump saver after every use and store in a heated garage when winter comes. Typical Lowe's /P. O. S.
Had scores of these set ups from customers needing repair, honda gcv160 engines running fine, cheap pumps like this go bad, tell them Im not warranty a aftermarket amazon special and even then, $70 for a new cheap China pump, $35 hour minimum and then it gets dumped on me. Your better off spending $600 or so for an honda GX series with triplex pump that will pay for itself in 5-10 years
NOTE! At 1:36 to 1:46 the have installed the seals backwards. Later they show the correct way to install them.
FYI the unloader uses 21mm wrench and the head bolts are 6mm Allen wrench.
Thanks. I know nothing about these pumps, but pretty good at fixing things. Reckon mine needs a new repair kit. Took it apart yesterday, cleaned it, put back together, still no pressure. It's a yard sale pump, but engine is like new. I try to fix
.
Seals @1:37 look like grooves up. Seals @2:24 are the other way around.
Yes Mike you are right, I also noticed it.
Got it. "ND" is non-detergent. This prevents foaming of the oil inside the case.
Are the inlet and pressure valves the same part/valves?
found this in an on-line manual for this pump:Special Note: Use only AR64545 for the XJ/SJ/BK/RMW Series pumps only: Do NOT changeoil. Use oil only to add if low. This oil is a specially formulated synthetic with special additivesfor the demands of the XJ, SJ, BK and RMW pump series. No other oil is factoryapproved for these pumps, and could result in pump failure.
I can't find that oil in the UK. Their "advice" sounds like BS. Can anyone recommend another oil for this pump?
Any iso 100 / sae 30 should work…. There’s no special formulation. It’s a pump. Dont use motor oil. Dont use gear oil. It’s that simple. Anti water additives might help. Use Amsoil if you want
@@metallitech gear oil 75w-90 or 85w-90 ..... That why it says on the side of my AR pump
I read that manual too... They put special detergents in it so as not to mix with water.
The pump I picked up was full of water and not oil....it all leaked out of main seal
What kind of oil goes into that pump. Many say ND w30. some say Synthetic Gear oil 75w90 and other say Marine gear oil w90. I bought usef pressure washer and I don't know how the last owner use it. I want to be sure that oil is clean and fresh to lube correctly and prevent overheating.
There is a sticker on it. It says "SAE W90" You can also buy online from parts places.
pump already comes with oil ready to install or need to add oil pump without dipstick ? i got a rmw 2.5g28
How do you change the pump oil?
There are two brass plugs visible. Is the smaller one a correct place to put a pressure gauge?
Is it possible to get just the manifold? It cracked and is leaking passed the unloaded. All the other parts are fine.
You didn't show how to repair the unloader valve. That would have been nice to see.
Real simple. One the side is a clip, take it off, get a flathead behind spring and pull, should come out.
I'm having that exact issue. I don't how or should be adjusted.
My unloader valve nut was loose. I rebuilt the pump as in the video. But still no pressure builds. I know it's the unloader valve.
Cómo puedo destapar la entrada de agua para este motor ??
Could’ve used the oil change procedure or level check
it's 2.2 oz according to data sheet in discription
I have two or the RMW2.2G24 pumps. Neither pump functions. Are these pumps supposed to have flow from the garden hose through the pump head and out the high pressure outlet. Neither pump has flow either with or without the engine running. Thoughts?
Check the nozzle on your wand. Check the inlet screen were your hose connects
I have the same problem. But there's no inlet screen on my pump
@@Assassin1710 I tore down both pumps and found that the check valves had broken and parts were blocking the discharge port. Basically trashed the pumps as parts are expensive and new pumps are not (Chinese imports).
how does one tell if the unloader is defective/bad? when I remove the unloader and then tighten the nuts back on the unloader the shaft does not move if I press down on it. If the nut is not tighten the shaft does move. This unloader is not like the other type of unloader on UA-cam. Any help/advise is appreciated.
Were you able to get this answered? I have same question ...
Hi Joe, did you eventually fix your issue? I might take out my unloader and see if it's causing any problems. I think the head is supposed to move back and forth. If not, then maybe I'll have to replace it. Not sure though, just basing that off of other unloader issues I've seen online.
The thing to do with the unloader is remove it from the machine. The unloader has a very stiff spring inside. You can't compress it by hand. You can put it in a vise to try it. Better yet, you can take it apart. Once the spring is removed, you can move the piston back and forth by hand. Clean all the components and re-assemble.
@@mot611 I did this today. The spring was very clean with factory grease. I took it all the way apart and put a little 90w marine oil in it while moving the piston. It moves good. I reassembled everything then reinstalled it into the manifold as 1 piece. Don't know if it fixed my problem though. I ran out of after work time lol. The issue is my pressure washer feels and sounds like its building pressure but when I squeeze the trigger it pops off really hard pressure then just a small stream like the motor isn't running.
driver ozz sounds like my current problem. Did u get it fixed ?
How do you change pump oil???
I do it by removing the pump(since it's only 3 bolts), removing the plastic oil plug, draining out the old oil, then adding the new oil. The pump doesn't hold much oil. With the pump sitting level, just fill it till it starts to run out the drain hole, then put the drain plug back in and don't over tighten it. Or just check your manual or Google to find the exact amount of oil your pump takes and add it.
I'm assuming positioning the pump level as if mounted to the frame?
I'm assuming positioning the pump level as if mounted to the frame?
Your not suppose to change it, it is a special oil designed for that pump I would only change it if you can guarantee that you have the right product read your manual
@@flickerog4203 I put 80-90w marine oil in mine. I've never done a total oil change but have had to add some like it says on the pump tag.
My AR SRMW2.2G26 pump requires a long M6 bolt to remove and replace the unloader valve seat (## THE VIDEO SAYS 5mm ##). My new unloader valve came with a M6 bolt. Unfortunately my pressure washer still shuts down when i release the spray wand handle. Looks like i wasted $28.
I think that means the unloader needs adjusting. Too high and pump engine stalls and supposedly pump case can crack.
@@TheTenthManOnUA-cam Thanks - i'll check to see if there are provisions for adjustment. I just happened to use my pressure washer this morning for the first time this year. It shut down once but otherwise worked fine.
I have a karcher 2400 psi pressure washer. Engine is running fine but when i pull the trigger on the wand the water come out but has 1 second pauses in between and doesnt come out continously, any way to fix this?
Hi, I have a pump of model RMW 2.2G30 (3200 psi 2.4 Gpm) , I need to change all of seals Water on it, where i can buy it online, please!
Where to buy the complete set
valves for this head pump
I emptied all the oil out and realized it does not take 30 weight oil. Then I finally was able to obtain service manual and it says that you’re only supposed to add oil but unfortunately I emptied all of the oil out. Now what should I do is there some kind of starter oil that needs to be added that I can get as well? Or is the pump going to burn out and become trash?
Just put 2.2 oz of oil back in just don't over fill
Where can I get the pliers
I have 2 pressure washers with these AR pumps. B&S engines work perfectly, pumps don't. I took the pumps off and see the inlet valves will turn but the pressure valves are stuck and do not turn. I tried to pull them out using needle nose pliers but they break off in pieces. Does anyone have any suggestions. I sprayed carb cleaner in there but nothing helps.
I'm sure you have since figured it out, but I had the same thing happen, got the remnants out by threading a tap into them and pulling.
My AR 22G24 -EZ-SX Makes plenty of pressure, but detergent pick up line will not pick up. I removed the chemical pick up nipple to see that there was no spring behind the bearing. Well at least no recognizable spring. There was a solid mass of grey gunk clogging the port. I sprayed it out but there is a dark grey plug remaining in the chem pick up port. I don't know if its a deteriorated seat or what, it is harder and darker than the stuff that came out first. Replacing the spring is not going to help if there is no opening between the chem pick up port and the discharge port. Anybody have any ideas?
if you are using a soap dispenser make sure you are using the correct nozzle low pressure actuates the spring high pressure nozzles wont activate it
When I took my pump apart I have brass pieces not plastic
What is that piece with the white cap on the end? I broke that trying to unscrew the whole piece
thermal release valve
I have otroy Bolt I Neesd the kits Seals sprint and ballrings were to get it
Art North thanks to share good videos about repair or replaced pressure pumps....
When you take the pump apart, what can be used to clean the existing parts? Does any of it require lube when reassembling?
Is their a video where you show how to replace the main oil seal, where shaft from motor joins the pump ??
I don't know what's under that seal which is why I don't wanna cut of it out or try and pry it out.... Besides it seems in their pretty good
That and a video on replacing oil seals around the tri-piston set up
Thier is no video at the moment on servicing the internals of a RMW pump.
What’s the difference between RMW and SRMW? I’ve seen the same exact nomenclature for these pumps, but one has RMW, and the other has SMRW. Looking at the pic at start of this video I’m guessing the S denotes a higher quality pump. 🤔
It has to do with the hole that allows access to the engine oil drain plug. One is on the right, one is on the left.
Thanks Jason! I think I had finally figured it out but it’s been some time since I looked at these after buying a small electric pressure washer as a “temporary” replacement (which so far seems permanent). I had learned either pump will fit my machine but as you stated, the hole on the mount gives you access to the drain plug. Since the engine to my pump doesn’t have a drain plug, it then becomes a matter of whether I wanted the hose attachments facing forward or towards the rear of the cart it’s on.
I have a Rmw 2.2g24 on a TroyBilt with a Briggs & Stratton 675 10 y.o powerwasher from Lowes. It seems to have oozed out a very thick grey transmission fluid. Where do I buy this fluid, and what seal failed to account for this to leak.
It says 75-90w oil on the pump tag. If your oil is grayish you may have a bad bearing or something.
I have a Briggs & Stratton pressure washer that I accidentally drained the Pump Oil instead of the Engine Oil. (Then realized my error and changed the Engine Oil before use, thinking it would fill the pump oil) I then ran the pressure washer for an hour. It made a screeching sound and I shut it off. If I add new Pump Oil, will it be ok? Will it/could it damage the engine? It's brand new but sat for a year.
You probably ruined the pump.Pump and engine oil are separate.
So, you ran the pump with no oil in it. The engine should be fine. The top half of the pump took the damage. No telling how much damage. Add pump oil and run it. If it still screeches, your pump is shot. Sorry, I don't know enough to say if you can rebuild the top end.
@@mot611 You can get the parts but a new pump would be better. The bearings below and above the cam are probably galled and the plungers worn but you can always tear it down to see. Never know what you'll find.
como puedo obtener su producto o el kip de enpaques
You can find places that sell our products by using this link : www.arnorthamerica.com/pages/services/service-dealers/
AR North America
I have this pump and unloader, my engine starts easy but in a second or two the pressure builds and loads the engine to the point of killing it, is this the unloader valve??? thanks
If you have any questions about your pump, call our costumer service hotline at www.arnorthamerica.com/pages/contact-us/
Rich W. I have the same problem with mine.
Did you ever find a fix ?
AR North America where can I get this kit ?
Mine does same thing it ran 1 min hit trigger and almost kills engine
Need parts in Belize country
How much oil do I put in? Mine doesnt have a sight glass?
Till it runs out the fill plug when level.
2.2oz
After replacing a new pump to my gas pressure washer, it worked great for a couple of hours, then suddenly the pressure is pulsating not constant high pressure water flow. Any ideas?
Mine too. I'm tearing it down again this week. I already saw I have minerals on the intake side . . .
Could be Carburetor mine would surge if I ran it wide open ended up leaking seal but I would recommend putting pump oil in it if it's got to sit for a period of time
I was using my pressure washer and it just stop creating pressure
If you are having troubles, call our costumer service hotline at www.arnorthamerica.com/pages/contact-us/
Hector Rst
Try filling the gas tank ,and start it up 🍦
Very Good Thank You
I have a model REV that has no pressure is it the same procedure as this model? If so is it the same part numbers. PLEASE HELP
I broke the seal, dumped the old oil, and refilled it with new oil. Now, I broke the pump, it is jittery and crappy. All check valves are damaged and need to be changed. What is the secret of not breaking the seal? Are they vacuum sealing it?
How many oz of oil does this pump hold?
2.2 oz.
Hi. Do I need to add oil if I replace new pump ?
Excellent
487 Lynch Stravenue
Can a RMW2G24 replace a RMW2G20 and still work right?
Yes.
218 Deanna Plaza
Why do your details on these pumps rate the "Hours Of Service" at ONLY 50 Hours ?
Are the pumps that cheaply built, as it even suggests on the box to use maximum 8 hours a week ?
Do they require SERVICE after this period or are they just throw-away ?
Yes, these pumps can be serviced or rebuild after this period.
We test these pumps out at 100 hours, the manufacturer of the pressure washer lists them as 50 hours because the average homeowner will only use it for that long in a lifetime. If you are looking for a pump that is made to work many hours in a day you should use a commercial grade triple plunger pump.
Love the cool-aid. Buy the pressure cleaner, pump rated even in a best case scenario to 100 hours. "Because the manufacturer expects that you would ONLY use it for that time....a blatant underestimation so you would buy again in three years or so". Meaning, for the typical homeowner use the pressure cleaner a few times and the pump would stop working. Thus, if you need a product that LASTS and it is actually RELIABLE then must purchase a commercial-rated product.
Yep. I agree with BOTH of you. I'm not "mad" about it though. I buy commercial product for ALL my tools. Makita vs Ryobi, Stihl vs Echo.Also, 100 hours winds up being a lot of time. If I power-wash my house and my deck, that's like 24 hours. Anything else I do, will be a :15 min job here and there. So, we're saying I have to rebuild my pump for $30 every 4 or 5 years. No big deal.Additionally, THIS machine is really too small to do decks and houses. It just doesn't have the volume and therefore takes way to long. Therefore, I should really be RENTING a commercial machine, which has the power/volume to get the job done properly. This would push the service life WAY out there.This machine is designed for small jobs like patio furniture and car rims etc.
@@mot611 I use mine to clean my rzr. It works great
486 Nora Street
Wheres the earl go? Wheres its cheech hole for shoving in the spoot to splooge some viscous ness in?? Do i just squeeze it in every hole ? Is how i usually do things if she'll let me.. breather, exhaust, intake, ear.. yea.. giggity...
Does the pump have oil that needs changing?
Yes it has what smells like gear oil. mine has a drain plug and a sticker that says 90wt
You can but not required. Unless it's very old and you use it a lots. ND SAE 30W
What's "ND"?
@@mot611 non detergent oil
How much oil i put?
2.2 oz
I will sell mine for a hundred bucks. Running great. Butt this needs to be done. No pressure but motor running great
Nobody will buy it, been trying to give away my gcv160 engine with a shit pump like this one for $20 and still nobody wants it 😂
@@jmabs5096 i would take it 🙂
Well... I just buy a new one for $70 because I cannot find the parts and why waste time doing all that.
I used to repair things, now I am like the shops.
My time is better spent just replacing a unit instead of a repair and pray.
575 Ben Mission
Just make a video stating these pumps are garbage! After all it is true! I have Troy-built with a Honda GCV160 CC Engine. The Honda part is great the rest is absolutely Garbage. I've used Briggs & Stratton pump saver after every use and store in a heated garage when winter comes.
Typical Lowe's /P. O. S.
Yes I have to agree those pumps are just a bloody money pit
Had scores of these set ups from customers needing repair, honda gcv160 engines running fine, cheap pumps like this go bad, tell them Im not warranty a aftermarket amazon special and even then, $70 for a new cheap China pump, $35 hour minimum and then it gets dumped on me. Your better off spending $600 or so for an honda GX series with triplex pump that will pay for itself in 5-10 years
Marilyne Harbor
what a misleading title. Not a word about "maintenance". How often to change oil? How much oil to add?
Nitzsche Summit
whats the website?
Can the oil be changed in these pumps???
Yes. Use ND SAE 30.
What's "ND"?
No detergent?
Does a replacement pump come with the proper amount of oil in it