Earl Strickland showed me this aiming method, and since then, I (almost) never miss this shot.
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- Опубліковано 22 чер 2024
- Back in New Yourk, I took some lessons with the one and only Earl Strickland. After missing a three rail positional shot onto the 9-Ball, he gave me this mindblowing aiming advice. And in this video, I am going to share it with you.
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Chapters:
0:00 Intro
1:59 The shot - the challenges
2:33 Earl Stricklands approach
3:41 And it gets even weirder
4:50 Mental Development Message
5:12 Additional shot examples where you can use this!
6:37 Outro - Спорт
Thanks so much to everyone commenting here! Really appreciate all your feedback! Listen and learn they say, please keep up supporting me with your feedback so I can produce even better content for you! Have a great day you all!
Thank you for tips!!! I'm going to give this a try tonight! I have been struggling with this shot and have been using top english and sometimes make it in. I'm fairly new to this game and run into this type of shot all the time! So if I can get this down that would be great! I've also been using the Taom V10 chalk and love it!
@@kafilkavich707 Cool! Let me know how it went!!
This is great. Thanks for sharing.
I would like to see how you can draw the ball from back a couple of feet from object ball without jarring the object ball.
@@charlesharsha5973 I tried, did not work for me
Wow works for me. Been having trouble with this shot. Only missed one out of 30 shots. Love it.
thank you for sharing your knowledge. we rarely ever see any demonstrations offered by Earl Stickland.
i would like to see more of your demos as well.
thank you
So funny I’ve been doing this for years but never fully trusted it. The fact that earl uses it gives me more confidence. Please continuing making videos like this!
aha same here. can walk them up the table
Oh wow, cool! I did not know it, so you happy it worked for you, and that you found out by yourself. I guess, every Pool Player has its own thing/approach, and maybe its more a mental trick than an actual physical help.
@@daved8327 Wait till you get a "low deflection" shaft, it might be a bit off then. And sorry for this but you pool guys can you tell me if there are many players in the world that can do what a 21 yr old did in our pool hall. For some decent amount of bucks to win a set he ran seven games of 10 ball in a row from the break. This on a 9 ft table that had very "unfriendly" pockets.
Thank you! Great video. I teach this all the time to players and have used it for years. I actually know who Earl learned this from. The gent who showed me used to play with Earl. A day after he showed me, I had to play the same guy in a tournament and beat him using it several times. He commented, "Wow! You learned that fast!" I had so much fun with it, I started using it one shots not even close to the rail (Don't Do this, but it works). The shot works because the inside spin allows the pocket to play "bigger." Each cue stick has a natural deflection, so I've had to make a minor adjustment as I moved from a high deflection shaft to a lower deflection carbon fiber or wood shaft. It's all about understanding the deflection you get with your stick. With a low deflection shaft I have to aim to the very extreme of the cue ball to aim at the middle of the object ball (almost to a miscue point but not quite). With a high deflection shaft, it moves closer to the contact point almost automatically, so I don't have to use such an extreme aim point on the cue ball. With a carbon fiber, I can hit the cueball in the same position on the cue ball, but I must adjust my aim on the object ball to avoid having to use extreme spin. I can hit closer to center ball, but still with inside spin by aiming 1 approximately 1" inch into the object ball , away from the edge of the object ball. So almost 1/2 way between the center of the object ball and the edge that's away from the pocket. It makes sense because the deflection is different. With a carbon fiber, to get the same affect spin as my high defection shaft, I've got to aim further out on the cue ball away from center ball on the object ball.. So to do this shot with the same aim point on the cueball that I use on the with a high deflection I MUST make an adjustment on the object ball. That adjustment is to 1" off the edge of the object ball.
Thanks so much for your detailed feedback, and for your teaching efforts. Great stuff
Just tried this on a number of shots, it worked perfectly - I am flabbergasted!
🤗
For me, the easiest way to remember this particular shot is this: First, it comes up fairly frequently,
both on the long and the short rails; the technique is the same. If the object ball (in this case leading to the 9)
is left of the cue, apply high right english. Then the opposite would have to be correct; that is, if the object ball (again to position for the 9) is right of the cue, you need left english to go around table.
Earl is phenomenal about moving the cueball around and this is a great tribute to him..keep going, players !!
Thank you, I just tried the shots on my table It works great. A little weird at first, I use a version of the shot with inside English, never thinking I could use it for all shots. I really have to trust it at first, it gets easer the more you use it!!! thanks great tip!!!!!
Happy it helped you as much as it helped me! 🎉
That is a great tp! If you have MORE OF THOSE KINDS OF HELPFUL TIPS i would like to hear them!
I will try my best! Thx for your feedback
Excellent tip!
I had same tip from 2022 BCA Hall of Fame Jerry Briasath.
You can also use same shot when the object ball is off rail.
Thank you!
Oh really? Cool! Many people came back to me telling me the heard this before. We here in Europe don‘t seem to get the really cool advices on time :) Happy it works for you
Very good tip any and all tips you have gotten from Earl Strickland will be watched and shared from me.
Thanks so much Gino
This method turns this from a touchy inconsistent shot to almost automatic with perfect position. Very clever! Thanks for sharing
Thanks for the feedback! Happy it works/worked for you!
Glad this works for you. I haven’t tried this method, but I understand why you were missing the shot. Hitting the cue ball on the right side pushes it to the left of the aiming line (squirt). Dr. Dave and several other people have videos on UA-cam explaining this. Stroke power, distance, angle, etc. all play into this shot. I find it better to have more information to be able to compensate correctly for each shot I am presented with. Then practice making the same shot with different spin (inside, outside, top, draw, stop, etc.).
Awesome tip!!! Thanks for sharing.
I learned this shot by accident because I kept over cutting the rail shot. So finally I just aimed straight at it with inside and it went in like magic even with extreme cuts. I bet there are lots of shots where the shooter can aim directly at the ball with inside or outside 7:05 7:05
Thank you! This is the PERFECT video..... for showing your opponent before a big match. Thanks!
Hahahaah - I feel you!! Thanks for your awesome feedback! Made my day
That's a great shot by Earl. Step by step run outs from player perspective with a go pro video would be nice. I think one thing that is missing would be one pocket bank tutorials would be nice for all players.
Thanks a lot for your kind feedback
Great tip! I would like to see techniques/tips on classic difficult shots like: jacked up over another ball, cue ball against the rail, and severe angle cut shots.
Hi JB! Great Input, will try to do some videos on this!
Thanks for sharing the advice. I'll be sure and try it during my next session as I rattle this ball a lot. I'd recommend for future videos showing clips of you making the shot a bunch of times with the different variations in the way you describe. BTW the pic you put up in the beginning was from steinway not amsterdam.
Hi! Thanks a lot for your feedback; will do, meaning, playing the same shot from various angles, starting points, etc. Great hint! And yep, I played Earl also at Amsterdams, but I put the wrong pic up - my bad!!
Awesome tip, I will definitely try it, thanks!
Thanks so much, hope it works for you!
This technique works for a wide range of shafts, if the shaft has too much or too little deflection it may not work. I also don't know why but it does. I noticed it years ago when working with spin compensation systems and using LD shafts (314, Z, etc.). I noticed after making my compensation that it looked like I was always aiming full on the ball, and furthermore my tip position was mirrored on the object ball. In otherwords, if I was using a full tip of spin, I would be aiming roughly full on the object ball and my tip would be pointed (pivoted) to that same 1 tip of spin position on the object ball.
Note, this also works when applying inside for object balls that are not frozen, try it! As for limits, I find it works until close to a half ball hit (about 30 degrees), at which point there is something else that can work but it's not as obvious or nice as aiming full at the object ball. Also requires a certain speed (so the deflection happens with minimal swerve) and distance needs to be in a certain range as well. Great video, thanks for sharing!
Hi Scott! Thanks so much for your detailed and super interesting feedback. Really appreciate it!!
You're probably right about it CJ touch of inside really opened my eyes but alas my eyes open and close daily with all the UA-cam videos I watch... Rack em up!
That’s awesome thanks for posting the video this will be fun to experiment with
Yep, a great experiment this is
Thanks man!
Did I will try this tomorrow at pool league. I've always struggled with the proper deflection angle on my object ball. Now I know that it's center ball rather than trying to play a cut. I watched you stroke it with a shallow angle & a harder angle with the same results. Kudos to you brother.
Thanks so much! Let me know how it went!!
That's excellent! I would never second guess The Pearl!
😊
Like Earl said. This "trick" only works at a certain distance. If you are close to the shot, the deflection will not be enough to pot the shot.
Yeah I agree, you still have to be aware of the deflection level of your cue and the distances and do the judging.
I just watched Earl run 130 balls in straight pool , Earl is amazing!!!
So true!! Love en
Amazing tip and Ty for sharing brother
😊✌🏻
Well it's working for me pretty well so far. You need to understand deflection well but I'm gonna start putting this in my game. Great tip. Well explained.
Oh great, cool to read it worked and helped you!
Game changer! Thanks for that!
Thanks a lot - or better - thanks to Earl!
Thanks for this! Gonna try it soon
Thank you! Let me know if it worked!
That's a very common shot thanks for sharing! Especially that last variation with the almost straight in
Thanks a lot for the feedback Chris!
Wow thank you for the tip, I will try it
Enjoy!
Love it!!
🙃
What a great tip!
Good information. I tried it and it works well. Same day I entered one of local tournaments and I was able to go 4 rails to get on my last ball and leave shape for this shot for the win. Made my last ball, got down on the shot and took it for granted. My mistake, it would have been my 2nd break and run in the match and would have won me the match, but not to be. I don't fault the shot thou. It was all in my pre-shot routine, and my lack of giving the shot the respect it deserved. Great tip, I won't miss it the next time.
Thanks for sharing.
Hi Terry! Thanks for letting me know, actually, thanks to Earl for showing me so I can show you! Keep on playing, and congrats to your game
I'll be trying this on Sunday, our practice night 👌
Cool! Hope it works for you!
Thanks for this advice.
Thanks for your feedback!
Nice work! 👍🎱
Thanks a lot!!
Great tip. Thanks.
Thank you!!
Roll Tide! :D
Very good tip, thank you.....
✌🏻😎
Interesting! must try it today🤝🏻
Cool
perfect! i finished almost. thankyou
✌🏻
More on aiming! Especially the cross cut shot.
Will try!
Different cues have different deflections. Unfortunately, there’s so many factors in deflection that this just cant work for everyone.
100% agree!
Doesn't work for me and my cue says Earl Strickland on it.
@@vincentcoppola9832 Thanks for letting me know! A shame it doesn´t, but happy we both are fans of Earl!!
His shot was NOT AT ALL what he said he did.
He clearly ( in slow motion speed) & fully hit the rail 50/50 ball & pushed the ball down the rail.
Absolutely did not hit the ball center as stated. That would never of worked.
Bs video.
He is aiming full ball and due to cue deflection he contacts the target ball where he is supposed to
Thank you
Omg how does this work so well? Thanks so much for sharing.
Great to hear it works for you!
The reason this works is that you're causing the object ball to spin into the wall while it's sliding away from the cue ball before it begins to roll. That eliminates the bounce from the wall and glues the object ball to the wall. Yes, it works at pretty much any angle, even past 90 degrees, which seems insane, but it's true.
Great content and presentation. 😊
Thanks so much Rex!
The reason the shot works, from what I understand, is that the right spin pushes the cue ball to the left make you hit rail first to the left and the result becomes hitting rail and ball at the same time. When the ball is hit you are transferring spin to that ball like football player spinning to keep the defense from effecting him. In this example the friction from the rail is the defense. The shot is possible in a number of different ways and if you want to use running English (left in this case) just hit rail first and it will go in but the cue ball will go a bit more straight out and spin along the tangent line that way so it depends on where you want to end up. You can also hit rail and ball at the same time with right spin or backspin/lowspin and it will work. Too much topspin can cause the ball to8t come off the rail for short shots. But If you need it to go all the way down the rail a bit of top and left spin with ball first works some of the time but it's hard do it consistently.
good video would like to see more extreme backspin videos
Thanks for your feedback! Maybe you wanna check out this one: ua-cam.com/video/seQhV44Pbjs/v-deo.html
This does work, I usually try and play the shot slow to stop it rattling with reverse side but even then some times on our British pub tables the balls don`t like to go in.they are not forgiving at all.
But today I had 3 attempts first too failed the white hit the ball to thick twice , the third attempt went in with speed , I could not believe it, I think though you have to consider several things to this shot.
So ,say were doing the same shot you showed us the second time where you hit the white at around 1 o clock high right.
1)size of cue tip makes a difference to how much push the white will go over to the left
2)Power given will push white over less if hitting white to hard,in a short distance
3)Distance between white and object ball will effect how far the white gets pushed over by the time it reaches its object ball.
So, consider the power given , consider how small the tip is to how far to the right you hit the white cue ball, and consider the distance from white to the object ball.
Once you get all three of these mastered you should get the object ball in all the time,
I imagine the ball goes in at such speed due to reverse spin`
Revers spin keeps the object ball to the running edge and same goes for the way it heads into the pocket coming off the corner angel of the pocket ` it gets forced to shoot into the hole from its rebound ,
Thanks so much for the detailed feedback!!!
I struggle with these a bunch and always wonder what spin to put em. Thanks for coopl tip. Hope it works when I get next chance to shoot a game!
Hi Rick! Hope it works for you as it does for me ✌🏻
Very very interesting video! Best wishes to you!
Thanks a lot Ian
The key is, trust yourself, your stroke and believe the ball is going on. Simple, yet so hard
Dr Dave as you mentioned, has a video that touches on this.
There is such thing as automatic deflection correction, where you just auto compensate.
Love the phrase „auto compensate“. Awesome. Thx for sharing
To answer your question as to wouldn't lose to Earl Strickland, it's taxi drivers and women. Jokes aside, thanks for sharing this tip. I was practicing this shot a while back and came to the same conclusion that aiming full to go 3 rails forward was the best way to make the ball. However, with lower speeds (if the position doesn't require the cue ball to head back down-table) I found that to make the ball, the aiming point goes back closer to the ghost ball, since the deflection is much less. So aiming is speed dependent I found.
Hi Robin! Had to giggle, made my day! Thanks for sharing your experience, appreciate your feedback!! Play on!
Lol
I haven't watch all the video... But already I like you... Listening on and I just SUBSCRIBED.
Thanks a lot! Big time!
Glad it worked for me so I didn't have to snap my cue in half like Earl would.
Hahaha - made my day 🤗😂
It’s the speed you play the shot, the running spin makes it hug the rail, but not enough to really deflect off since the topspin accelerates the obj ball forward; kind of like the top:side ratio at moment of contact. Try it pure side and you can see easier why top helps keep it in line. This shot becomes harder from longer distances at slow speeds, since the right applied will serve off the aim line, but as long as you account for it and the cb contacts correctly, it will still pot.
Hi Jonathan! Thanks, true this! Really appreciate your feedback
@@pocketedyoutube Surprisingly...low inside (follow through instead of stun, which reacts differently) I've found to go towards that 1st diamond/3rd diamond...coming to rest straighter in for the 9. Had the nine been over to the left side of the table though, high inside seems to come in straighter.
@@excxmoody Super interesting!! Will try this out, Darren Appleton also mention this one time, low inside helps a lot, but to me, this is a super difficult shot!
Why would topspin on the cue ball create forward acceleration on the object ball ?
@@suserman7775 It’s more like energy transfer. Easiest way I can explain it, since there is more top spin than side spin, the forward momentum from the topspin will overtake the throw from use of side. Contact time at that speed is also lower, so less throw from side relative to top. This is how I rationalize it in my head anyway.
One small correction. You said at the beginning that Earl showed you in Astoria at Amsterdam Billiards. That wasn't Amsterdam which is in Manhattan. That was Steinway Billiards!!
Hi! You are absolutely correct! Thanks so much for pointing it out!!!!
Thanks for the tip Earl. Can you make a video demostrating on how play a screw back on an object ball frozen to the cushion
Great tip! Can`t wait to try it out. Do you still aim exactly full to the OB, even with different distances from CB to the OB? In my logic the deflection should increase with longer distances to the OB, and so the risk to overcut the shot is high. No matter how much your shaft deflects.
Hope it helps a bit!
If the Object ball is frozen to the rail I aim for the extreme edge of the object ball, almost the gap between ball and rail. Then I add a touch of inside English. The deflection causes a rail first hit with a pocketed object ball.
Hello! Thanks for the hint, will try this out
Very informative. I will definitely apply this to my game. Can you interview Ralf Souquet about his 26 rack run of eight ball he did years ago? Thanks!!
I will try! Good idea!
added to my pool practice videos :)
Cool - thanks so much!
interesting and coming from Earl how can I not try it as this is one of my hardest shots. Not the shot itself but going three rails for the shape.
I feel you!! Always struggled and struggle sometimes as well
Will have to give that a... shot! :) Thanks for sharing!
Thanks so much! Hope it works for you!
@@pocketedyoutube so I've run through 15 balls trying this. I use a McDermott 31" i2 (hybrid) low-deflection shaft on a Star butt and 4" mid-cue extension+5oz weight. How medium tip.
I was most successful with aiming 3/4 hit on the OB and a firm stroke. When all the way to the edge of the CB it becomes more of a square hit due to more deflection.
So for this kit, I would go with a 3/4 ball aim, and go 1-2 tips out from center. More than that will be more of a full-ball aim. 😁👍
@@ATrainGames Awesome! Thanks so much for putting so much time and effort in testing and feeding it back to me! Really appreciate it!
I always end up stunning this shot and going across table
Interesting habits working from different angles. I'll try that tomorrow. My my cue stick has more deflection. I tried a c u e Tech carbon fiber but it seemed a little heavy. Went back to Wood. It was a very good shaft though. Sometimes I regret selling it. Thanks for all your tips and hard work man.
🤗✌🏻
Depends on shaft stiffness and power of the stroke. Think of it like this. The sticks 'bows' as it strikes the ball, which sends the cue ball off of the aiming path. Right spin throws the cue ball to the left, vice versa.
100% agree
Hi, I'm loving your videos!
I've got one question regarding table sizes. ¿Would you consider getting a 180x90cm field slate table?
I've got limited space and with the 2x1m I would have to make some shots with a shorter cue. The 180x90 fits better in my room but I am afraid of how different the game could be compared to the 2x1 bar tables I am used to play.
Thanks!
Gee, thanks a lot for your kind feedback! Puh, but regarding table size at your place…. Hard to answer for me! Firstly, a table needs to fit (size wise) into your room. Makes no sense to me, putting a table - maybe too big - into your home, not being able, to use a standard size cue then. If your goal is, to just being able to practice a bit, a smaller table would also do (training fundamentals, certain shots, break, etc.) In general, I would go for a 9ft table, because here in Europe we do not play bar table tournaments at all. But if I were in your shoes, not being able to put a 9-footer into my home, I simply would not put any table in my home. Rather spend the money then in equipment, coaching fees, etc. But these are just my 2 cents.
Thats refreshing ! Will try it out
What length extension are you using , the old cuetec 6 inch or the new 3 inch extension ?
Hi! The new 3inch extension is what I use
Man, Dr.Dave would have a field trip with this shot.
100% - and he would kill me for this 🙂
Earl is underrated in my opinion
True this
look forward to trying this out, I certainly can rattle balls in the jaws without a problem
Great! Let me know if it worked for you! Enjoy
Ever since i watched this vid i use this constantly and i tell everyone i know
*LAST SHOT, NOTICE THE WEIGHT OF CUE WAS TO RIGHT, AND THEREFORE CUEBALL WAS THROWN INTO RIGHT RAIL CAUSING CUE TO BOUNCE RAILS*
Yeah I've always struggled with getting position with those rail shots
Thanks Zane
That was money. Nasty tip. Thank you.
Gotcha! What can I do …
Awesome I have to tell myself every day to aim straight at the ball
Same here
Great video! BTW that pool hall in Astoria, Queens (NYC) is NOT Amsterdam Billiards.
It's STEINWAY BILLIARDS HALL. Apparently, it's closing down in January 2023. So many blue collar establishments/institutions are being gutted because of capital. Please let's not let people forget about these places.
I know, my bad! Steinways is closing?? Please tell me, thats not true…. Wanted to go back there in Spring 2023!! Please say its not true
😂 „smarter people like me“
Nice video. Thx.
Its true 😂 there are way smarter people than me out there ..
I have to get to a pool table to try this. It first glance it seems to me that only a specific combination of stroke power and sidespin amount would work.
To pocket this ball, the cue ball is probably compressing into the cushion a tiny amount, so that the object ball is hitting slightly "thinner" than were a ghost ball would be.
The cut-induced-throw and spin-induced-throw exactly offsets the extra thinness of the contact. The resulting object ball spin makes it hug the rail without having enough force to bounce off the rail. At longer distances the swerve of the object ball will be greater than the deflection so this wont work. At lower power, again the swerve will be greater than the deflection and this won't work. At very short distances with a powerful stroke, the deflection is greater than the swerve and the cue ball will hit rail first and miss the shot.
Thanks for sharing! It would be nice a tutorial on how to properly use the bridge, I think there is not much about that matter.
Great idea! Will put a video together and post it soon
@@pocketedyoutube Thanks!
I was taught this shot in 2016 and what's really hard is when you almost at the 50 yard line and you apply running English without scratching at that
Interesting! True this
Tried this out today and had zero luck. Anyone got some extra tips?
explanation is given on 2:53
I love playing this shot when it serves a practical purpose... and yes, also to show of haha.
It's always appreciated when people care to share knowledge that can improve your game.. great clip therefore!
Tip to the uploader though: the video didn't need 7 minutes to make a point on how to hit the shot.. to drag it out by saying "it sounds crazy... for some reason it works... the tips that I'm going to share with you... etc. etc.. just cut to the chase next time please 😀
Please make a vid how to consistent break the 1 ball in side pocket with breakes from:
1. Matchpools breake square
2. The rail
👍👌
This is how CJ Wiley aims every shot. Check him out on UA-cam, and he was a training site where he teaches his methods.
Hey, thanks so much for the hint, did not know! Really appreciate it!
Good video. Love Earl the pearl.
Please don't take UA-cam criticism to heart, especially from pool players. I graduated to snooker and still use my snooker cue for occasional 8 or 9 ball game. Pool players have waaaaaaaaay too much time on their hands with 14 different shafts, 6 butt ends, 12 chalks made from munks on mountain tops 🤣🤣. If you take judd trump or Ronnie O'Sullivan and give them a house cue, they make anyone look ridiculous (professional pool players, that is).
Pool players were struggling to beat the snooker stars and the snooker blokes were just coming over to have a go at pool.
Corey duel (sp?) Spent years trying to break into snooker and could not break the top 100 and the guys near 100 are part-time snooker professionals. Most have regular jobs on the side because they can't practice enough to break into the top 50.
Set up real life scenarios, practice each and do it until you can't miss, but one damn cue and a piece of masters chalk and just play. Full stop
Hi there! Awesome feedback, love it!!! All good, I know if I put out stuff not everyone is gonna agree. If you watch my „Albin Ouschan made me do this“ video, you will see/hear, that only hard work will lead to success.
Albin once famously said to me:
Shoot the fucking ball 15.000 times, then you know! Meaning, put the work in man! There are no shortcuts, you cannot buy your way to success with gear. I said this in my vid as well.
Of course many people are seeking for simple solutions, but there are none. One has to come to terms with him/herself, recognizing this. But some do not want to believe this, or think „I am no Pro, I have no time“. Therefore you must learn from Pros, that they solely focus on their weaknesses, and they work on them. And some do not even play as often as you might think. I know so many Amateur players (like me), who spend way more hours in a Pool hall than Pros, but do not improve, because they/we/I just play! No structured practice, no goals, just dreams.
But a dream and a vision without goals and a plan on how to get there will always stay a dream. And the fundament of achieving your dream is - hard work.
That works for someone using a maple shaft with a lot of deflection. To those who use a laminated or carbon fiber low deflection shaft, just aim & shoot.
For some it also works with a low-defelction shaft (like me), but I can understand your point!
Nice
Thank you
excellent video in terms of content and editing. Keep them coming! 🦾
Thanks a lot, really appreciate your feedback!
works on regular shaft but try it on a Revo ultra low deflection shot and you get a fuller hit as the deflection is way less
I think all the comments on deflection miss the point of what's happening. Most of us know that top right english on this shot is the way to go, and how we aim and execute for the deflection depends on a lot of factors, but I think the "magic" here is using a LOT of english to cause the cue ball to hit (from any shallow angle) and run more parallel to the rail and into the object ball and then, the inside spin transfers to outside spin on the object ball which causes it to kick into the hole instead of rattling out. Throw on the object ball might be a factor too, but might need Dr Dave to figure that, LOL. Good tip, thanks!
I like playing bottom on that ball as it puts top on the object ball and helps it roll in, the downside is if you're confident in your speed you may be shooting the 9 in the side or down table.
Cool thing to do, and I also do this at times when it suits the situation! Thx for your feedback
@@pocketedyoutube true! It is definitely situational, just for this shot in 9 ball me personally I take bottom, not to say top is wrong in any way.
Thank you for the video. I hope you have a good one. 👍
The problem with that is what if you are trying to go three rails, or even two, to get position.
@@jamesdavis7225 Well, I guess Earls advice is exactly tailored for this
Great video and very straight to the point….but quick question….what will be in case of having the same shot but need draw?? With bottom side spin how it will be???
I have no idea!! But I guess, it won‘t work… but let us try out!!!
@@pocketedyoutube Not many know that top right and bottom right of the same amount do NOT have the same deflection -- low right has significantly more squirt, and needs a larger squirt adjustment. This is because the ball is dragging on the cloth and slower. I like to think of it also as the cue ball is very slightly "lighter," as there is a very small upward vector from the low hit. This reduces the friction with the cloth, allowing it to squirt more.
@@rocketceo Yep, thats absolutely true
1) You're imparting a little bit of left spin on the object ball, which helps suck it in to the rail, 2) You actually have a relatively high margin of error as you can hit the rail first.
The reason it works: The side english causes DEFLECTION (squirt) when hit firmly. So with right english and hard hit, the cue will arrive left of the aiming point.... It is important to learn the effects of deflection spin and throw... I STRUGGLED FOR YEARS. This shot came up. I wanted to cheat the pocket when straight and use the side and top to get me out when I had zero angle.... WHAT I FOUND (after owning my own table and getting to practice freely) was that you aim square and straight at the pocket like in this video, and the hard hit side causes deflection and causes a natural pocket cheat that you didn't have to aim to achieve. Then the side/top takes off the rail and you can get away from the corner.
Hey, thanks so much for your awesome explaination
Shot it just the way you described and landed a little longer, I may have hit it a little to hard. It wen just as described on my first shot. Thanks for the tip. Using a JP 13mm.
Hi Danny! Awesome, happy it worked for you!!!
I think this should be just a general rule, have to fine tune it to the conditions , my 2 cents.
@@juliusb790 Maybe. I am not sure about it myself