Thank you very much for this video. It's simply perfect and contains all the information you need. Explanation is easy too understand for everyone. And all the special information is very helpful. I changed the bearings of my OS 91 SZ with your help. No problems. I didn't expect, that the trick with 200deg in oven works so good..... I can recommend to everyone :do it exactly like he did. It's the same way with other OS like 55, 91 etc... Many thanks and greetings from Germany 🇩🇪👍
was thinking i was well over my head on rebuilding my os 91hzr before watching this watched alot of videos and this by far the best and only one needed thank you
Dave, I followed this video tutorial step by step and successfully changed the bearings in my OS 50H and OS 55HZ. Thanks and have a great season in 2016. Regards, Daniel O'Sullivan.
OMG Dave, I'm just getting back into RC flying and I just stumbled across your video (I'm rebuilding an OS 61FS). So good to see your business is still going. I remember you from Mid-late 90's in Wormwood Scrubs. Say hi to Ozzie Ryan for me if you still see him. Miss you guys!
You don't need to remove the inner shield of the front bearing. There is a .003-5 in gap between the shield and inner race. That is bigger than the gap between the crankcase and crankshaft. Any oil that gets past the crankshaft will easily get to the bearing.
Good video all ic flyers should watch. There can be issues with using stainless steel ball bearings. Stainless can corrode more in acid environments and can be softer than normal ball bearings so it is not a no brainer as a choice for ic bearings. What is more important is to run dry ( if you can) and use after run. Standard ball bearings may in fact last longer. Perhaps better to buy brand name standard bearings and run dry and use after run oil.
What an excellent video! Thank you for taking the time to make this. Your video on tuning is also filled with great info. I plan on getting a nitro heli soon and these videos will be a tremendous help.
The common method to mount bearings in general is more secure apply force on outer ring in inner ring has risk to damage the bearing. I recommend use a bigger soquet on front bearing
@@ioannisgerasopoulos5622 Sorry but I don't know. I would suggest contacting customer service at the manufacturer (ASP / OS) & ask them. The likelihood is that the 55 size OS crankshaft clamp will also fit the 61 engine. I have not used an ASP engine so don't know about this one.
Hi Bradley. Glad you found the video useful. With regards to the black on the top of the piston, you can clean it with metal polish BUT you have to be really careful not to get excessive amounts in the tiny holes in the top of the piston or the ring groove. Once you have finished cleaning off the black, the holes & ring groove must then be cleaned thoroughly & blown out with an airline to ensure that there is no residue of polish left as this will wear the piston / ring / liner when it is run. Make sure the ring is lubricated prior to re-assembly.
Hi Patrick. The crankshaft is forged & is very strong. It is not easy to damage the thread. If you don't tighten the fan enough and the engine gets flooded and backfires, it can loosen and push off the clutch which could then jam into the fan shroud.
No need to remove the inner shield. Oil gets in there just fine. Removing the shield raises the possibility of damaging the inner parts of the bearing. www.rcbearings.com/blog/1-question-from-users/
Never use a torch. That is an uncontrolled heat source putting out a flame that is around 1500 deg F. Heating aluminum alloys and heat hardened parts above 380F (200 C) can cause dimensional instability. Use a $20 toaster oven with a thermometer.
Thank you very much for this video. It's simply perfect and contains all the information you need. Explanation is easy too understand for everyone.
And all the special information is very helpful. I changed the bearings of my OS 91 SZ with your help. No problems.
I didn't expect, that the trick with 200deg in oven works so good..... I can recommend to everyone :do it exactly like he did. It's the same way with other OS like 55, 91 etc...
Many thanks and greetings from Germany 🇩🇪👍
Glad it was helpful!
was thinking i was well over my head on rebuilding my os 91hzr before watching this
watched alot of videos and this by far the best and only one needed
thank you
Dave, I followed this video tutorial step by step and successfully changed the bearings in my OS 50H and
OS 55HZ. Thanks and have a great season in 2016.
Regards,
Daniel O'Sullivan.
+Daniel O'Sullivan
I am really pleased it was useful to you. I am really looking forward to the new season. You enjoy 2016 too!!
Great Video…your Oven Trick saved my Motor. Bearing was totally stuck and dirty. No movement on the inner bearing. 👍🏻
Glad it helped
OMG Dave, I'm just getting back into RC flying and I just stumbled across your video (I'm rebuilding an OS 61FS). So good to see your business is still going. I remember you from Mid-late 90's in Wormwood Scrubs. Say hi to Ozzie Ryan for me if you still see him. Miss you guys!
Good to hear from you Matt. A lot has changed since our days flying at Wormwood Scrubs - glad to hear the flying bug has bitten you again. Enjoy!!
You don't need to remove the inner shield of the front bearing. There is a .003-5 in gap between the shield and inner race. That is bigger than the gap between the crankcase and crankshaft. Any oil that gets past the crankshaft will easily get to the bearing.
Excellent video, realy great detail such a shame there's only 2 buy you. just swatting up for a return to flying after 15 yrs away.
Good video all ic flyers should watch. There can be issues with using stainless steel ball bearings. Stainless can corrode more in acid environments and can be softer than normal ball bearings so it is not a no brainer as a choice for ic bearings. What is more important is to run dry ( if you can) and use after run. Standard ball bearings may in fact last longer. Perhaps better to buy brand name standard bearings and run dry and use after run oil.
Many thanks for your comments.
Hi Dave, that's a fantastic detailed video and I feel confident in changing my os bearings 👍
What an excellent video! Thank you for taking the time to make this. Your video on tuning is also filled with great info. I plan on getting a nitro heli soon and these videos will be a tremendous help.
Excellent video. You’ve given me the confidence to do my own 105 rebuild
これからやろうとしていたところでしたので、大変参考になります。
Glad to help.
Just about to enter nitro land with the OS 150 hz r in the Align 750n chopper. Brill vid, very informative. Cheers
Very useful. Lots of good info all in one place. Thank you & happy flying :)
The common method to mount bearings in general is more secure apply force on outer ring in inner ring has risk to damage the bearing. I recommend use a bigger soquet on front bearing
Good advice but when the crankcase is hot, it has expanded and the bearing just drops in... there is no force on the bearing.
The video sound is pretty good, beyond my imagination
Excellent video very helpful
just what i needed, very nice info how can i find the locking tool that fits on the back of crankshaft ?
Here are the part nos. for the 91/105 size crankshaft clamp (OS71530530) & the 55 size crankshaft clamp (X-OS71530400) .
@@flyinfishrcguides1393 Ηοw can i find the part number for a ASP 46 and OS FS61crankshaft clamp?
@@ioannisgerasopoulos5622 Sorry but I don't know. I would suggest contacting customer service at the manufacturer (ASP / OS) & ask them. The likelihood is that the 55 size OS crankshaft clamp will also fit the 61 engine. I have not used an ASP engine so don't know about this one.
@@flyinfishrcguides1393 Ok thanks, I will call them
Excellent video thanks.
Great Video thanks. When I took mine apart, the piston had some black on top. Should I clean it? If so, with what?
Hi Bradley. Glad you found the video useful. With regards to the black on the top of the piston, you can clean it with metal polish BUT you have to be really careful not to get excessive amounts in the tiny holes in the top of the piston or the ring groove. Once you have finished cleaning off the black, the holes & ring groove must then be cleaned thoroughly & blown out with an airline to ensure that there is no residue of polish left as this will wear the piston / ring / liner when it is run. Make sure the ring is lubricated prior to re-assembly.
Thanks for this great video./..Hope next time ,i'll try do so on my engines...
7:25 - most important information there is! Ask me how I know...
How do you know? 😂
Hi - do you really need to tighten the fan that much?
Hi Patrick. The crankshaft is forged & is very strong. It is not easy to damage the thread. If you don't tighten the fan enough and the engine gets flooded and backfires, it can loosen and push off the clutch which could then jam into the fan shroud.
Put the new bearings in the freezer overnight. It helps loads.
Dave - where did you order the better-than-OS stainless steel bearings?
I just bought a set for a different engine from BOCA bearings. (www.bocabearings.com)
Hi....why a os91 nitro engine pump fuel back to the tank when I try to start the engine with a align starter
Does your engine have a regulator on it ie is it pressure-fed from the back of the crankcase?
Just change bearings, follow these instructions and you will nothave problem! THANKS...
Had no idea about making sure the ring has to go back the same way it came out; aside from the the locating pin that is obviously. Too late now :/
No need to remove the inner shield. Oil gets in there just fine. Removing the shield raises the possibility of damaging the inner parts of the bearing.
www.rcbearings.com/blog/1-question-from-users/
Done it on my Supertigre G21s
Great video.
Where I find these crank locking tool?
www.align-trex.co.uk/nitro-engines-and-spares/engine-spares/91-engine-spares/crankshaft-clamp-91hz-105hz-gt15-x-os71530530.html
Great help, cheers
Piece of cake!
Nice video…
There's this new thing called after run oil, you should check it out.
14:15
Piece of cake
You never push on the inner of a bearing....
Which part of the video are you referring?
spot on mate!
PeterPoloschrauber
Don't bother warming the oven. Just use a handheld propane torch or gas stove burner. A lot faster and you won't heat up the house with the oven.
Never use a torch. That is an uncontrolled heat source putting out a flame that is around 1500 deg F. Heating aluminum alloys and heat hardened parts above 380F (200 C) can cause dimensional instability. Use a $20 toaster oven with a thermometer.
The video sound is pretty good, beyond my imagination
The video sound is pretty good, beyond my imagination
The video sound is pretty good, beyond my imagination