Unboxing and Setting up the Creality LD 006 3D Printer
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- Опубліковано 14 лис 2024
- Welcome to Monocure3D Protips! Today, we will be unboxing and setting up the Creality LD 006, 4K Mono Screen 3D Printer. Watch the full video to see the unboxing, tips on how to install your Wham Bam Flexible Build System, guidelines on how to set up and slice your model in Chitubox, and finally how to clean and cure your 3D model. We will also show you the process on how to get the best and clearest results out of the Pro Crystal Clear resin. This resin is based on our advanced TUFF™ formulation, giving the same incredible high tensile strength. Still, it boasts non-yellowing properties that allow for a high level of clarity through the printed model.
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.::TIMESTAMPS::.
00:24 Unboxing
03:32 Printer's Specifications
04:27 Creality LD 006 Review
11:28 Chitubox Settings and Slicing
12:31 3D Printing and Post Process
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.::PRODUCTS::.
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Just a correction to the “z=0 option doesn’t do anything” comment - as it turns out, it does if you nudge the home position up or down manually. If your calibration print base thickness does not match the model base thickness you can nudge the home position up or down in 0.1mm increments and then select Z=0 to set that as the new home height. It will still home to the same height based on the optical end stop but then it will move to the z=0 height override you set when it starts a new print job.
Very nice machine...well done Charlie
If I haven’t mentioned it already, over time our LD-006 ended up with a floating LCD screen. Now when it prints the LCD sticks to the FEP and gets lifted out of its socket on every lift. This dents the corners of the FEP and could eventually damage the LCD. Tried a bead of silicone under the edge and replaced the black tape - still pops out. Just something to watch out for if you own one. Hopefully Creality will offer a solution for this issue?
Hi，we are sorry about that，can i have your email address? Or please send email to halotsevc@creality.com with your printer problem,we will check it and offer you the reply on it ASAP.
You are using the wrong configuration for the retraction speed... it is setup way too fast
@@halotservice6739 Well , same thing here...floating screem and dead pixel. No way to find a replacement for the exposure screen
@@Lucas-yg8rn Chegou a encontrar alguma coisa, ou nada ainda?
@@renanjeron Olha no Aliexpress Loja Long Feng (Da Store) . O Modelo da tela é o PJ089Y2V5, a Chitu Systems fabrica essa tela. Preço $824 reais
Great video!
Thanks for watching and the positive comments!!
Just got one of these during the $99 deal (I thought it was a new printer but I think it is the same as these older units) and so far so good. Only thing I don't like about it is the buildplate not having the screw on it to help hold it. Kind of awkward having to get you hands into the resin most times just to get the plate off.
Great review and I will check out more of your stuff!
Amazing! Thanks for the comments
Excellent video. How do you make the printer recognize .ctb files with higher versions than chitubox 1.7?
This is a good question for our PrintLab - please send an email to John and support@monocure3d.com.AU
It leaves a small cured edge on the tray, is that light leaking around the edges? How do you fix it? It's very difficult to clean because it's almost stuck between the FEP and the tub.deja un pequeño borde curado en la bandeja, eso es escape de luz por los bordes?
Great video will definitely be getting one in the near future
Check out their latest, yet to be released Halot Sky...
Hey guys. Great review. I live near the city of Sydney in Canada haha and can get this printer really cheap. Is it still worth a buy. I won't be printing alot of granular detail stuff. Just mostly scale rc accessories to give away to people in the club im starting. If you guys could give me your opinion I'd really appreciate it. I'm familiar with fdm and can get this printer and the two anycubic wash and stations for under 450
Sounds like a great deal!
Excellent review! Thank you for the level of detail you provide. Where can I get the calibration file used in the video? I did not see that one on your website.
I'll add it to the description soon.
@johngrouse
www.dropbox.com/s/97f4640mlnxux8s/M3D%20Calibration.stl?dl=0
Finally a review!!
Would you recommend this over mono-x?
From this review, I think John prefers the Mono-X just because he can turn down the UV power and have more control.
@@Monocure3DProTips Thanks for the recommendation! keep up the good work, you have a new sub!
And the fact that it recovers from a power outage in the middle of a print job! Huge plus for me.
Mono X wins hands down. I have done 100s of prints in both machines.
G’day, mate! For an engineering project, i.e. to create small SLA resin casting molds and RTV silicone seals and urethane seal holder components from said molds, which of the resin printers would produce the highest fidelity (minimal voxels or layer-line visibility), and thus provide the least amount of post-processing touch up after washing and curing for mold making? Ultimately, I rather minimize filling in and sanding the molds being mindful of the finished silicone parts released from the photopolymer-based mold. Thanks in advance mate!
Hi John, most of the 4K MSLA resin printers will go down to 10micron layers in the Z axis. There will be no need to sand as you will not be able to see the layer lines at that height. In regards to which is best, there a few to choose from, so I recommend you do your research before committing. Facebook groups is a great place to start.
Wow, wished I had seen this video and all the complaints on this machine before I bought one tonight. 😳 I guess the only good thing is I got it on sale for 550. Now it's making me wonder if I should return it.
They might improve the firmware?
They have on heavy sale now in my local shop. Wonder if it is because it came out really bad. What is your experience? Thanks
@user-fc1fo6bl9d truth is the film came loose and broke... I bought some new film... but never installed it.... like most 3d printers for me... anything of size never turns out good.... and could very well be me.
That being said... the one thing I needed it to make. It accomplished it several times to make a jig for my drill press so I could make a set of buss bars. I haven't used it in months.
@@nathanpotter8569 This happens a lot. People buy devices, have trouble using them, and then they got unused forever.
I have 2-3 devices like that.
But, do you think it is a printer to avoid or it can actually do a job?
Hola a todos. Me pueden recomendar entre la Creality LD006 o la HALOT LITE?? Gracias
Halot
@@Monocure3DProTips could you elaborate why?
It's a newer printer with their latest tech.
I was calibrating mine and in the middle of that the touch screen stopped responding. like it clicks when I touch a folder but wont open it. Its stuck on the home screen of the 3 folders Tool, System, and Print.
Sounds like it’s frozen! Try a different USB.
I have a problem with my creality ld-006 that I just got today. The problem is that files that I put on my UBS are not wisible on 3d printer. I have correct type of file (CTB) and USB drive was formated to FAT32. I'm thinking that there must be problem with USB port on my 3d printer. What do you think? Is it USB port or should I try something else?
Where did you slice the files?
Update the firmware of the printer. It sorted that problem for me.
Were you ever able to get the network port to work on this printer?
Never got it to work!
How many times can the release film be used?
Until it becomes too scratched or cloudy.
I bought this and I am having hard time with odor during printing. It is really strong. The cover is closed, elegoo air purifier doesn’t help it at all as well. In standby it’s fine.
Any ideas for solution ?
Sorry to hear that! What resin are u using?
When compared to Anycubic Mono X, this Creality LD006 is super slow.
50 micron, 23cm print takes 21 hours in LD006.
Mono X takes 11 hours.
Interesting...Wouldn’t the layer duration and lift speeds control this?
@@Monocure3DProTips we tried those same settings that mono X used, but speed never improved on LD006.
I think it's hard coded with the machine.
@@zitizen What's your setting on Mono X ?
@@yamatotran7668 50 micron.
1.5sec
6 base layers @ 40 seconds
0.5 off time
8mm lift height
The default settings of chitubox for monox.
Interesting observation. I got John in the PrintLab to confirm and he agrees that it is slower. Hopefully they fix this with the newer Halot series.
pls help! what is the file extention? which one? how can I save my model for ld 006 in chitubox?
Just make sure you have the printer selected in the Chitubox settings, it should then save as the correct file extension.
Hello very good, I have a problem and it is that in the impressions the resin sticks to the FEP and nothing comes out, it is calibrated, what can I do, the machine is a creality LD002R
just bought. The resin is standard elegoo, exp 6 seconds and base 50, which can be, a greeting.
🙏
Out of your
Honest option I have 1k to spend on a resin printer what would be the best option to buy mate in Australia
At the moment we like the Anycubic Mono x as the best option.
Where can I get magnetic build plate ? Give me info.
You can buy them from www.monocure3d.com.au or direct from Wham Bam Systems USA
Interesting, just got mine and there was no vat cover nor calibration card included, also the vat is made of white plastic.
Strange?! Sounds like you got a refurbished one? With a dental vat?
Curious to know if the Z-Axis Metal arm is strong enough against the suction forces?
Reason being that the Harlot Sky appears to have a beefier arm and reduced max height as a result.
It’s fine - the only problem we had was with the Epax E10 which had a plastic (maybe Nylon) but it still flexed and didn’t print large objects well at all!!
do you have the stl of the test used in the video? Thanks, could you share it?
www.dropbox.com/s/97f4640mlnxux8s/M3D%20Calibration.stl?dl=0
I have a problem with my ld-006 since I installed a flexplate: I recalibrated the z as I should, but the buildplate still presses down on the glass, so it seems like the machine isn't saving the new z position. When experimenting around and pressed home without the buildplate, the machine stopped and when I measured with they buildplate it seems it was just a couple of mm too low, ie the height of the flexplate. I even fucked around and raised the platform a full 10 mm and tried to set that as the new z=0 - no luck, when pressing home the build plate still went on down onto the glass. Does anyone have a solution for this?
Dont rely on the firmware to set home. If there isn’t enough room you might need to adjust the IR sensor or the blade that interrupts.
Which is better in your option the Anycubic Mono X or this machine?
We like the Mono X because you can turn down the UV power and it as Auto Resume after a power outage!
Does the Anti Aliasing work on this printer?
Hey Craig do you mind sending John an email at support@monocure3d.com.au he doesn’t have access to this so best to reach him via the email.
Does your machine have any movement (spring loaded) in the assembly that attaches to the build plate and ball screw? If I push down on my buildplate it moves down on the ball screw about 1 or 2 mm, which jumps back when the pressure is released. Not sure if mine is assembled incorrectly or if it is supposed to be like that.
Yes, this is a tension spring. It can start to weaken over time so we recommend you change them if you start to see z banding lines on your models.
@@Monocure3DProTips Okay thanks, just weird that it is loaded in positive Z, I'd expect it to be the other way around from and engineering POV.
There are a few things that seem to be the wrong way round!!
@@Monocure3DProTips I found I can lower the play by removing the platform from the ball screw and then turning it towards the spring so hopefully that will help. Now I just have my motor losing power for half a second every 2 or so seconds so I'll need to fix that before I can try it again...
So jelly, i want one so bad!
We are trying to get our hands on the new Halot sky. Looks like they are aiming towards dental market...
@@Monocure3DProTips yeah i have been abit confused at where that one is aimed at, like im sure its a fantastic machine but they haven't really communicated why i would want one of them instead of the 006
Hi! I'm having an issue with my LD-006 and was wondering fi you might be experiencing the same. Even after minimising the cross section of my builds through angling and support selection, on ever lift there is an auditable suction and visible ripple in the vat as the build pulls of the FEP. I've replaced the film and experimented with a number of slice settings but I can seem to avoid it. This is has resulted in some layer shift in my builds :( Any advice would be great, thank you!
@George Kerwood We are reponsible for every customer, so if you have any problems about your Creality 3d printer (especially when you need to use pics or videos to show these problems), pls contact our after service www.creality.com/service-request. We have very professional engineers there to solve your problems. Thanks for your support.
I think i have a same problem ;-(
Interestingly we have just noticed that as the part is being lifted off the FEP the monochrome screen is also lifting out of its socket with it. Not great. Trying to work out how to secure the LCD to prevent this. The black tape is clearly not doing much besides masking stray light.
@@Monocure3DProTips I also have noticed creasing/disturbance in "the black tape" suggesting I'm experiencing the same thing. I've also noticed an impression of the screen developing in the FEP as if it's being pulled into the rear side. I seem to suffer this with layers of even as little as 20cm2 so pretty much on every raft.
@@Monocure3DProTips Please, post your solution when available to solve this problem :-(
which wham bam did you use on the machine so i can buy one from you guys if i get one of these soon
195x122mm
👍🏻
Has anyone tried using the creality slicer with this model? I’m curious because I’ve got the halot one which shows up on the model list but when you download the slicer software from the model ld-006r this model is not there. Can I use a different model of the same build size?
You should be able to set it up manually. If not go with Chitubox or Lychee slicer instead.
@@Monocure3DProTips I got it to work with chitubox no problems. I just like the creality slicer a bit better than the chitubox basic version. I like that I can add txt to my prints on the creality slicer!
You can always use theCreality slicer to create your text and export it as an STL. I’m not sure if you can do that on the slicer? Then you can import into Chitubox for the slicing.
@@Monocure3DProTips thnx I will try that!
@@Monocure3DProTips that actually worked really well! Thank you for the suggestions! I really appreciate all the hard work you guys put into the channel! I’ve learned so much and I’m able to pass along what I’ve learned to people who have struggled with the same issues! One more question if you don’t mind??? Can you take the usb stick out while printing with this machine? I noticed that every time it lights up a layer it reads the stick so I haven’t chanced taking it out. Thanks again for all your help
How much smell generated with supplied filters installed?
If the lid is kept closed - not much.
@@Monocure3DProTips I learned a lot about what filament today and what do and weather they require filtration.
ua-cam.com/video/vSwumoSlZTo/v-deo.html
what can you tell about the quality of the impression ? I mean it's good but is it better than other ones ?
around the same to be honest.
@@Monocure3DProTips any thoughts on the Phrozen mighty 4K ? I’m on the fence about these two printers and I couldn’t find any comparation.
thanks in advance 😊
So far with what i'm reading and with what others experiencing the same issues with the FEP and LCD screen as I am, I WILL NOT BE BUYING ANOTHER ONE, I WOULD ADVICE EVERYONE TO STAY AWAY FROM THIS PRODUCT THAT HAS SUCH A TERRIBLE FLAW!!!! Ive barely made any prints but my LCD is already damaged and i've had to replace the FEP several times, its been a nightmare!!!
You should wait for the DLP printers that are coming then.
Purchased this one months ago and used for the first time today. I’ll keep this in mind, thanks.
What is the price on this resin printer?
We paid around $700US
@@Monocure3DProTips
Thanks
Hi guys I'm having problem with my settings in chitubox, I'm using ld006
10 layers
1.2 exposure
1
1
Distance
3
3
60
150
150
Can you share your profile or sell them many thanks
Feel free to reach out to our support team for expert help! Support@monocure3d.com.au
Is it better than photon mono x?
At the moment we are big fans of the mono X that can change very quickly as new printer come out very rapidly
Most people buy this machine because of the build volume, if you intend to use the full volume then a magnetic build plate does not work, the weight is simply too heavy .. the corners of the plate start curling and then resin starts seeping underneath and then it starts twisting .. I tried using for over 2 weeks .. its simply a bad idea and recommend people don't buy one.
This can also be caused by the resin sticking to the FEP due to poor model position and over curing of the layers. We haven't seen this problem with weight before.
@@Monocure3DProTips Iv used commercially 24/7 since the day it came out and always use full build plate and volume, I also use the LD 002R and the LD 002H .. lot of people will also be put off on how noisy this machine actually is compared to the (in my opinion) far superior Mono X, Creality has also failed to provide me any details for replacement Nfep (uk)
Dont buy this machine! There is no replacement for the exposure screem... what a shame
Thanks for the tip!