Update* Thanks to the efforts of many helpful people and experimentation a few settings can help with this technique. Set your lift speed somewhere between 40-60. When placing supports try 10mm off the build plate instead of the default 5mm. If you are having trouble getting your supports straight you can change the setting for the light supports > Middle tab > Angle to 0.02 (you can set it to zero but it will default to 0.02)
@@miguelmassvieira So, most printers default profiles are with a 100-150 lift speed. THAT is too fast. Common thought is a lift and bottom lift of 40-60 pulls the print up slower, allowing the FEP to flex but not RIP the print off, which could ruin the supports and casuse warped or failed prints.
This has been 100% the most helpful video I've watched on printing dice...which is surprising considering how many people there are out there these days making their own masters. Your method saved me so much time on failed dice and trying to troubleshoot what the hell was going wrong. I just wish there was a way to automate the supports this way
Wow thank you for this! I've been struggling for over a month to get dice successfully printed and this method is PERFECT. I read through the comments and the 10mm supports and lowering the lift speed made all the difference in the world. I also found that the islands in the numbers were pretty much inevitable especially on the d100, so I added extra support anchors to the inner part of the zeroes and other islands and that fixed the issue I was having with failed edges and landed me a perfect print. I finally have perfectly printed masters all thanks to this video and your wonderful instructions!
I didn’t mention this in the video, as it was more about the printing process and supports, but I’m getting questions on post curing. Make sure to post cure your dice with a UV source (sun, nail lamp etc) before polishing. I would also suggest letting your masters off gas for a minimum of a week (2 is better) before attempting to mold in platinum silicone. (See my inhibitx vs napthta video). Also you may get a small about of light bleed on the base tip, but this is easily removed when polishing, if your faces are flat and even a little extra material on the tip is actually a good thing. Better something that is easily sanded off than warped faces.
I've been contemplating trying out dice casting; partly due to me loving dice sets and to sate my inner dice goblin, but also because it looks like a fun hobby. I didn't even THINK about the possibilities of using an SLA printer, I've got an elegoo printer as well. This may be 3 years old but your vid definitely has helped me learn more and lean toward getting started in this craft.
Dear Rev Chumley, you have no idea how helpful this video is to me. You have the exact setup as me, so that helped. I tried placing the supports like you did and the dice came out awesome! It will help me to save so much time. I used to sand and correct the dice I printed and it was a long and frustrating process. With this method of placing supports, everything just became so much easier. Thank you so much!
Thanks! I just got my printer today and the resin is way too expensive to waste on mistakes. I hope your technique will work for me! The explanation was very clear and easy to follow.
Thanks for this. I got into printing via resin in Dec 2019, after FDM since May 2016. I love it, and one of the first things I wanted to print were dice. However, they failed miserably - rough edges, etc, and I gave up on it. I dont play, or pain (or sand or polish), but something about perfecting the process drives me. Today I decided to try it again, and a quick search gave me this video. Pretty cool. I dont think I'll ever get to the level of mastering, molding, etc - but it's super cool to learn. I'm going to give it a shot over the weekend!! Subbed based on this video, thanks!
THANK YOU so much for this video! I am freaking out right now because I never thought to do supports this way. I was getting SO annoyed by my D6 every time.
how are you getting such clean prints with clear resin? No matter what I do I get this bulging effect where all the fins merge at the tip and the dice become unusable. I have spent weeks tweaking every setting i can think of but can't get it to work. either the supports fail during printing or they bulge out and majorly deform the tips. I know I could switch to opaque resin but I've already purchased so much clear.
did you find any solution to fix this problem? I have got the same , today I printed my first dice masters with sunlu abs like clear resin, and all the bottoms of my dice are distorted and puffy... do you know why? First I did a print with test to be sure that exposure time is correct, so I don't understand what happened...
Nice. Love the supports suggestion. Would never have thought to do it like that. I tend to use a haridryer rather than hot water, though. It works the same, but is a little quicker and a bit less messy. You can also use the hairdryer to heat the build-plate before your next print - that big slab of metal is a huge heatsink and can stay really cold. Think I'm going to go and print off some dice for myself!! Thanks
@@ImagiNationLabswithRevChumley Just saying thanks again. My first try failed but I recalibrated the platform and got 7 for 7. Once the raft was cut free the supports just snapped right off.
Hey Mr.Chumley a few of my numbers keep drooping on the prints with everything set the way you have it. The previous maters made were making the top numbers mess up and now its on the top and side, Should I try to put more supports? I have the marspro2 and elegoo resin basic resin thank you for your time. Aaron C.
I had perfect results for most of my prints. Only issue was the D12 and D20, the supports separated at some of the outer edges what caused the die to deform. Using heavier supports on them causes the faces towards the buildplate being „blurred“. Did you had this problem before? By the way, you make it look just so easy seperating the prints from the buildplate
I know this is 3yrs old...but I have been searching for settings to slice High Clear resin like this for some time. Any chance you could share the exposure settings etc?
Great video. The dice I printed using this method turned out great... *except* for the d6. There was drooping on the bottom face numbers and where there were sharp recessed corners (like the upper left of the number 5) the print seemed to split or crack. Any suggestoins?
Took me a while to understand that the proper orientation for d6 is 45deg on one axis then 35.26deg on another axis. Is there a setting that removes the angles from the supports like you have it? Lychee slicer keeps adding angles between support and the tip Also, you are brave for keeping your vape and drink that close to your resin 😂
Hi! Awesome tutorial, helped me a lot for the last year I've been doing masters. Do you have any suggestions for jumbo sized dice? Same technic? Any change on the supports?
Going to give this a try. I've been able to get good dice out of everything but a d6, there was always the corner that pointed down that was longer than the rest. Test printing now.
@@ImagiNationLabswithRevChumley It worked better than what I had before. Still not perfect but my test print at 0.04mm went well. Running one at 0.02 and well see how it is tomorrow.
I’ve tried many different support models for dice and I have yet to get perfection, but with this method everything was flat and correct with a minimal amount of extra material on the bottom tip probably due to light bleed in the clear resin, but was easily removed during the polishing phase. If you are seeing to much light bleed at the bottom, try lowering the layer exposure time to 8-9 seconds. See my Instagram for these all sanded and polished.
@@ImagiNationLabswithRevChumley My d6 turned out pretty well with this, close enough that I'm happy with it anyhow. After polishing it's good. I tend to use thinner supports than you do (most of my printing work is miniatures so I've gotten used to using very light supports) and I'm printing my D00 right now. Have you found it necessary to make the supports touch each other or do you get similar results if there are gaps between each support?
I’ve found if you leave gaps between the supports that they will hold resin and light bleed through the clear will sometimes cause the blobby faces/edges, but I haven’t tried every combo. Doesn’t hurt to try.
Thanks a ton for this. I just printed a set I designed but I tried with a face down, do not recommend. Even with a lot of heavy supports, the bottom faces came out pretty warped. I will definitely give your edge supports a try!
Great video! I was getting frustrated both trying to use autosupports and using autosupports with manual editing in both Chitubox and Prusaslicer. All I was getting was a lot of misprints and grief cleaning failed prints off of the FEP. This approach works great. For what it is worth, I pulled down a trial of Formware 3D. Once I put the STLs point down, it autogenerates supports much like this. Not sure I can justify the price of that, just for supports, though. We'll see how much value I can find in the remaining 29 days of my trial. ;-)
I love this video and am making my first set of masters. I am struggling getting some of the dice support to place int he center of the edge and not go off to the side. Mainly the D8 and up. I have matched you support setting, but no matter how I try, the support always attached to the edge, but goes of to the side. I can make a wall support that way so I hope it works. Any advice on what an be done to better get the support in stay centered. Thanks
Thanks for all these advices ; I tried to print a D20 and a D6 almost like you did, but it failed : with sunlu abs like clear resin 1.7s exposure time, 10 mm high on build plate, I still have ugly faces and numbers on build plate side... And I think that putting a support exactly under the tip of the dice is not recommended, for me when I removed the supports on the D20 the tip of the dice broke and the master is ruined, impossible to fix with sanding...
I suggest learning fusion 360 and adding bumpers to the edges and your own wall supports. Then when you go into chitubox you only need to support the numbers. Also it does matter if there's an island. Your vat is going to have a bunch of tiny cured chunks floating around.
I would say this video is epic. Got a resin preinter last week just to make my own masters. All the dice I printed so far look amazing because of the tips in this video! Have a question about the d6. The faces that have a corner pointing at the build plate are coming out with edges .20mm longer than the face that has no points (all of these edges are a perfect 16mm) touching the build plate. Any suggestions on where I can start researching to get a perfect or close to perfect cube? So far only have been seeing "calibration" cubes for fdm printers. Thank you once again!
Try lowering your lifting speed in chitubox to 40 and see if that helps. Most small inconsistencies can be corrected when sanding and polishing as well.
@@ImagiNationLabswithRevChumley that did work. Still a few mm off but I think I am expecting to much out of my printer (ld-002r). I was able to sand/polish to a near precise cube. Once again great video!
Started using these setting and was getting successful prints. Except however for the D6,it still comes out warped. Not sure what more I could do or settings I could change to fix my issue. Any help would be appreciated
I'm just about to buy my first resin printer to follow along with your dice making video. Since they now offer mono lcd screens (anycubic photon mono x) would it be better to buy that rather then an elegoo Mars to print from?
My wife and I lost a child due to miscarriage, we had the remains cremated and I am making a custom set of dice, so the child will always be a part of family game night. We have 6 other kids who all play.
The point where the supports meet, have all broken off with the supports...not terribly, but they won't be as sharp as the other points. Any ideas how to troubleshoot that? I'm very, very new to 3d printing (I've printed the rook and this one attempt at my dice set haha.)
Great video, man! Your vid and Rybonator's video on this support method helped A LOT when it came to printing my dice. I'm not expecting an answer cuz of how long ago this was posted but I'll try anyways: Why the transparent resin? I see a lot of dice makers make their masters from this. Is it just personal preference or does the resin bring up imperfections better? I haven't sanded the regular resin masters yet and I'm wondering if I should invest in clear. Thanks again for the great video!
I was wondering if you would be able to share the printing settings you used in Chitubox. I've been trying to print dice for a while now and I'm still having issues. Thanks in advance!
I've been resin printing since Dec 2019, FDM since march 2016. However, I've never been successful printing dice. The supports, even super lights which I use on my 3d Minis that come out awesome, leave marks I'm not happy with. BUT .. my real question for you is when you have say the D6 point down, and i dont know what layer height you're using. but i use 0.03 usually, the first layer is really just the point, and if you have a support hitting right on that tip, then the tip will print "inside" the support. and when you take it off, you'd likely have no point on that supported edge. So, do you just sand and reshape the edges? do you roll without a point on that one side? Really appreciate your help. Honestly, Im just printing the dice to have as a prop. I dont play or paint, i just want to have a successful self-printed dice set :) FWIW, my support settings are WAY lighter than yours. Your light settings are more "aggressive" than my heavy. And even with that, the tip looks to be a horror show on the pointing down edge.
So my dice come out looking very crisp, but I have a problem The point on the D20 that is facing the plate, seems to be longer/sharper. How do I prevent this from happening?
Great video! I have tried twice to print my dice and they all seem to fall off the supports so I get no dice and slightly shaped resin stuck to the bottom and the supports are nicely printed and hanging from the plate. Is it because they are too heavy? The second time I tried, I tried heavy supports and the same thing happened. Not sure what else to do. I am using an Anycubic Photon. Thanks!
awesome tutorial! I am getting some sagging in my walls. Would you be willing to share your settings for the siraya tech clear? I am also having issues where it is fusing at the base and into the die itself. I am printing on a mars. thanks!
If you are printing the dice directly on the base that is the cause of the curing into the dice itself. The elegoo mars has a longer cure time on the first layer so make sure to print the dice off the build plate using supports. As for the walls sagging maybe too thin of walls? I don't really know.
Been trying for weeks to print masters for my wife. Every time I remove the supports, I chip the hell out of the die. Will the hot water help prevent that?
Hey, I was wondering if you had any tips for getting the supports actually on the edge? I initially hit a rhythm and got a couple dice done pretty quick, but now it's completely dragging and I find myself hitting ctrl z for a couple minutes per support.
Zooming in usually helps. If a edge is refusing to be straight on the corner it’s ok as long as they are all angled the same way and as close as you can get them to the edge. You can see that on my D20 in the video
When I try this method it doesn't put the supports where I click and puts them much further along or on a face instead of the edge. Any ideas whats happening?
I'm having a lot of trouble getting all of my supports to go straight down. they always want to kick out at an angle. It's insanely fiddly and gives me a lot of anxiety trying to get the straight down angle to snap. Is there a fix for this? D8 drove me crazy now I'm on first d10 and want to cry.
Hey man, I really appreciate this video and it did inspire me to make my own masters. For the most part I was successful but I did get some inhibition in the numbers only. Do you find you have to clean/sand the numbers in some way to prevent this?
I washed really well with a toothbrush and IPA, got in the numbers really good, then washed really well again with a toothbrush and dawn dish soap and rinsed with straight water. Then finally laid them under the UV light again to really cure everything up. It worked perfectly for me. Inhibit X ruins my molds.
@@ImagiNationLabswithRevChumley I also used Siraya clear. I actually did the same with two cleanings with dish soap and a toothbrush, but it was my first try, so I will just make sure I get deep, and I'll wait two weeks, rather than one. Had to learn somehow. The inhibition was slight, so atleast I have some molds to experiment with. Thanks!
Couple of questions…. 1) do you find changing the layer height makes any difference? I believe my default is 0.05, should I change to to 0.02 or would it not make any difference? 2) you talk of not needing supports for islands in the middle of the numbers. All instinct says they should not print properly without them so what exactly happens that means the supports aren’t needed?
1. Given you have to sand and polish the masters anyway, it makes little to no difference. If you have an extremely bold number font, it may help with visible stepping in the fonts, but you would have to have eagle eyes to see that. 2. I said my font didn't really need supports, but I also said if you have a different font you may need them and that it wouldn't hurt to put them in.
Definitely worked better than what I was doing before, but the edge on the d6 still looks longer/warped than the others 🙃 tried on my Mars and on my works $250,000 printer. I think I'm cursed lol
what version of chitubox are you using? I am giving this a go but the supports kick out no matter what I do at an angle Edit: ah i see yours does the same thing on the d20. Printing a test now, with me luck! you have earned my sub
@@ImagiNationLabswithRevChumley i did 2 test prints of a full set with this method, mars and photon s. They came out SO GOOD! thank you for sharing this!
Personally I brought them into Simplify3d (any 3d slicer should work) and separated shells, then I could pick dice individually and save them out as individual stls. There may be a way to do it in OpenScad but I didnt try.
You can find the info info ^above using the "//" command @4:55-6:50- Where is the d8? By using this command you can remove other dice and render the dice that you want.
@@ImagiNationLabswithRevChumley Thanks! just finished testing it out and I had some air bubbles trapped in the dice. Have you ever experienced that? I am using a different resin (water washable clear blue) so that could be an issue. Besides that this worked like a charm!
Yes i've had air bubbles trapped in there. I try to let my resin settle in the tank if i've stirred or poured new in until its clear of bubbles before I start the print and make sure that there is enough in the vat so that z lift doesnt raise it above the surface, other than that I've not found a way to prevent it, if you find out how, let me know!
Am I the only one where on the sharper angle dice I can't get it to do the straight supports? I am using the latest version of chitubox and it wont work for me.
Anyone have an issue with numbers getting clogged with excess resin due to light bleed? ive got fairly perfect shapes, but the bottom numbers arent very sharp. I know its due to excess resin not draining away, i just dont know how to fix it.
Are you aiming for the supports to cover the actual edge of the dice, or to be right next to the edges, but securely on the face? And if not, have you tried that?
Awesome. This looks like the Github project for the dice creation tool, hasn't been updated since 2017 though. Found it by googling for openscad rp dice generator for the link-adverse...there seem to be other options as well so might be worth exploring a bit. github.com/jcarolinares/openscad-dice-generator/blob/master/openscad-dice-generator.scad
Update* Thanks to the efforts of many helpful people and experimentation a few settings can help with this technique. Set your lift speed somewhere between 40-60. When placing supports try 10mm off the build plate instead of the default 5mm. If you are having trouble getting your supports straight you can change the setting for the light supports > Middle tab > Angle to 0.02 (you can set it to zero but it will default to 0.02)
hello
why 40-60 lift speed?
is not too much?
thanks
@@miguelmassvieira I use 40 personally, but every machine is different, FEPs are at different tightness so you'll have to experiment
@@miguelmassvieira So, most printers default profiles are with a 100-150 lift speed. THAT is too fast. Common thought is a lift and bottom lift of 40-60 pulls the print up slower, allowing the FEP to flex but not RIP the print off, which could ruin the supports and casuse warped or failed prints.
YES!!!
I wish I would have found this comment before! But I'm so glad you had an answer :)
As somebody with no 3d printing experience, this is very fancy and very interesting witchcraft
I was killing myself trying to get the supports straight. Thanks for the comment to change the angle to .02 and this entire video.
Just got a resin printer. This has made me feel less nervous thank you
This has been 100% the most helpful video I've watched on printing dice...which is surprising considering how many people there are out there these days making their own masters. Your method saved me so much time on failed dice and trying to troubleshoot what the hell was going wrong. I just wish there was a way to automate the supports this way
Glad it worked for you! Yeah, hitting one button for supports would be nice :)
Wow thank you for this! I've been struggling for over a month to get dice successfully printed and this method is PERFECT. I read through the comments and the 10mm supports and lowering the lift speed made all the difference in the world. I also found that the islands in the numbers were pretty much inevitable especially on the d100, so I added extra support anchors to the inner part of the zeroes and other islands and that fixed the issue I was having with failed edges and landed me a perfect print.
I finally have perfectly printed masters all thanks to this video and your wonderful instructions!
Glad it helped!
Instant fan of this channel now. Really good content and the background music is the cherry on the cake!
I didn’t mention this in the video, as it was more about the printing process and supports, but I’m getting questions on post curing. Make sure to post cure your dice with a UV source (sun, nail lamp etc) before polishing. I would also suggest letting your masters off gas for a minimum of a week (2 is better) before attempting to mold in platinum silicone. (See my inhibitx vs napthta video). Also you may get a small about of light bleed on the base tip, but this is easily removed when polishing, if your faces are flat and even a little extra material on the tip is actually a good thing. Better something that is easily sanded off than warped faces.
I've been contemplating trying out dice casting; partly due to me loving dice sets and to sate my inner dice goblin, but also because it looks like a fun hobby. I didn't even THINK about the possibilities of using an SLA printer, I've got an elegoo printer as well. This may be 3 years old but your vid definitely has helped me learn more and lean toward getting started in this craft.
Tip with hot water is brilliant!
Dear Rev Chumley, you have no idea how helpful this video is to me. You have the exact setup as me, so that helped. I tried placing the supports like you did and the dice came out awesome! It will help me to save so much time. I used to sand and correct the dice I printed and it was a long and frustrating process. With this method of placing supports, everything just became so much easier. Thank you so much!
Glad it helped
Just got my 3d printer, gonna try this out
Thanks! I just got my printer today and the resin is way too expensive to waste on mistakes. I hope your technique will work for me! The explanation was very clear and easy to follow.
Thanks for this. I got into printing via resin in Dec 2019, after FDM since May 2016. I love it, and one of the first things I wanted to print were dice. However, they failed miserably - rough edges, etc, and I gave up on it. I dont play, or pain (or sand or polish), but something about perfecting the process drives me. Today I decided to try it again, and a quick search gave me this video. Pretty cool. I dont think I'll ever get to the level of mastering, molding, etc - but it's super cool to learn. I'm going to give it a shot over the weekend!! Subbed based on this video, thanks!
Hope it works for you! make sure to read the pinned comments.
Best quick video I have seen on this thanks
I just tried this and WOW! It works so well! Thanks so much.
Glad it helped!
Is there any way you could link where you got the generator from? I am unable to find that facebook page. Thanks
@rybonator can you recommend another generator?
THANK YOU so much for this video! I am freaking out right now because I never thought to do supports this way. I was getting SO annoyed by my D6 every time.
Hope it works for you!
This is great. Very good of you to share your knowledge.
Great video! Im just wandering, why is it that all the masters I see are printed in clear resin? What if you print them in regular grey resin?🤔
how are you getting such clean prints with clear resin? No matter what I do I get this bulging effect where all the fins merge at the tip and the dice become unusable. I have spent weeks tweaking every setting i can think of but can't get it to work. either the supports fail during printing or they bulge out and majorly deform the tips. I know I could switch to opaque resin but I've already purchased so much clear.
did you find any solution to fix this problem? I have got the same , today I printed my first dice masters with sunlu abs like clear resin, and all the bottoms of my dice are distorted and puffy... do you know why? First I did a print with test to be sure that exposure time is correct, so I don't understand what happened...
Nice. Love the supports suggestion. Would never have thought to do it like that. I tend to use a haridryer rather than hot water, though. It works the same, but is a little quicker and a bit less messy. You can also use the hairdryer to heat the build-plate before your next print - that big slab of metal is a huge heatsink and can stay really cold. Think I'm going to go and print off some dice for myself!! Thanks
Great tip!
Are they pretty strong? Would they chip if dropped off a table ?
Exactly what I needed, exactly when I needed it. (Borrowed a friend's Photon to try this.)
I hope it works for you! Nothing more frustrating than failed print after failed print.
@@ImagiNationLabswithRevChumley Just saying thanks again. My first try failed but I recalibrated the platform and got 7 for 7. Once the raft was cut free the supports just snapped right off.
I need to make custom dices. Im planing to stack them in a certain way so i can print more that 6 at a time
Thank you for this. Your edge support method inspired me to design some built-in supports for D&D dice. I'll make a video of it soon.
Glad I could help! Anything that makes printing easier is a great addition in my book.
Hey Mr.Chumley a few of my numbers keep drooping on the prints with everything set the way you have it. The previous maters made were making the top numbers mess up and now its on the top and side, Should I try to put more supports? I have the marspro2 and elegoo resin basic resin thank you for your time. Aaron C.
Struggling for two weeks printing my Masters. Trying your support method right now and cannot wait to see the result. Thanks for sharing your wisdom 😁
You got this!
I had perfect results for most of my prints. Only issue was the D12 and D20, the supports separated at some of the outer edges what caused the die to deform. Using heavier supports on them causes the faces towards the buildplate being „blurred“. Did you had this problem before?
By the way, you make it look just so easy seperating the prints from the buildplate
Try Reducing your lift speed to something like 60
It worked great! Thank you for the support!
I know this is 3yrs old...but I have been searching for settings to slice High Clear resin like this for some time. Any chance you could share the exposure settings etc?
Great video. The dice I printed using this method turned out great... *except* for the d6. There was drooping on the bottom face numbers and where there were sharp recessed corners (like the upper left of the number 5) the print seemed to split or crack. Any suggestoins?
Support anywhere that needs it including numbers. Try raising the D6 a little higher off the plate. Might help
When do you cure? How long do I need to wait before I cast them?
Took me a while to understand that the proper orientation for d6 is 45deg on one axis then 35.26deg on another axis.
Is there a setting that removes the angles from the supports like you have it? Lychee slicer keeps adding angles between support and the tip
Also, you are brave for keeping your vape and drink that close to your resin 😂
Hi! Awesome tutorial, helped me a lot for the last year I've been doing masters.
Do you have any suggestions for jumbo sized dice? Same technic? Any change on the supports?
I used the same technique for my 50mm dice I made, just used medium supports instead of light.
@@ImagiNationLabswithRevChumley thanks! I'll try that.
Going to give this a try. I've been able to get good dice out of everything but a d6, there was always the corner that pointed down that was longer than the rest. Test printing now.
Hope it works for you! Let me know how it comes out
@@ImagiNationLabswithRevChumley It worked better than what I had before. Still not perfect but my test print at 0.04mm went well. Running one at 0.02 and well see how it is tomorrow.
I’ve tried many different support models for dice and I have yet to get perfection, but with this method everything was flat and correct with a minimal amount of extra material on the bottom tip probably due to light bleed in the clear resin, but was easily removed during the polishing phase. If you are seeing to much light bleed at the bottom, try lowering the layer exposure time to 8-9 seconds. See my Instagram for these all sanded and polished.
@@ImagiNationLabswithRevChumley My d6 turned out pretty well with this, close enough that I'm happy with it anyhow. After polishing it's good. I tend to use thinner supports than you do (most of my printing work is miniatures so I've gotten used to using very light supports) and I'm printing my D00 right now. Have you found it necessary to make the supports touch each other or do you get similar results if there are gaps between each support?
I’ve found if you leave gaps between the supports that they will hold resin and light bleed through the clear will sometimes cause the blobby faces/edges, but I haven’t tried every combo. Doesn’t hurt to try.
Im ready to buy a resin printer thanks for this
Thanks a ton for this. I just printed a set I designed but I tried with a face down, do not recommend. Even with a lot of heavy supports, the bottom faces came out pretty warped. I will definitely give your edge supports a try!
Hope it works for you!
Can't find the facebook group you mentioned. Can you post the link?
Great video! I was getting frustrated both trying to use autosupports and using autosupports with manual editing in both Chitubox and Prusaslicer. All I was getting was a lot of misprints and grief cleaning failed prints off of the FEP. This approach works great. For what it is worth, I pulled down a trial of Formware 3D. Once I put the STLs point down, it autogenerates supports much like this. Not sure I can justify the price of that, just for supports, though. We'll see how much value I can find in the remaining 29 days of my trial. ;-)
This was extremely helpful. Thank you so much!
Glad it was helpful!
Awesome info but I have a question , is there a reasone you skipped the curing phase with UV light?
Nice work!
Thanks!
I love this video and am making my first set of masters. I am struggling getting some of the dice support to place int he center of the edge and not go off to the side. Mainly the D8 and up. I have matched you support setting, but no matter how I try, the support always attached to the edge, but goes of to the side. I can make a wall support that way so I hope it works. Any advice on what an be done to better get the support in stay centered. Thanks
I'm having this exact same issue. Did it end up working for you with the support going off to the side?
Check the pinned comments.
Thanks for all these advices ; I tried to print a D20 and a D6 almost like you did, but it failed : with sunlu abs like clear resin 1.7s exposure time, 10 mm high on build plate, I still have ugly faces and numbers on build plate side... And I think that putting a support exactly under the tip of the dice is not recommended, for me when I removed the supports on the D20 the tip of the dice broke and the master is ruined, impossible to fix with sanding...
Do you cure after sanding?
I suggest learning fusion 360 and adding bumpers to the edges and your own wall supports. Then when you go into chitubox you only need to support the numbers. Also it does matter if there's an island. Your vat is going to have a bunch of tiny cured chunks floating around.
I would say this video is epic. Got a resin preinter last week just to make my own masters. All the dice I printed so far look amazing because of the tips in this video!
Have a question about the d6. The faces that have a corner pointing at the build plate are coming out with edges .20mm longer than the face that has no points (all of these edges are a perfect 16mm) touching the build plate. Any suggestions on where I can start researching to get a perfect or close to perfect cube? So far only have been seeing "calibration" cubes for fdm printers. Thank you once again!
Try lowering your lifting speed in chitubox to 40 and see if that helps. Most small inconsistencies can be corrected when sanding and polishing as well.
@@ImagiNationLabswithRevChumley that did work. Still a few mm off but I think I am expecting to much out of my printer (ld-002r). I was able to sand/polish to a near precise cube. Once again great video!
I do everything like in the video but D6 prints little warped:( how to help with that?
Started using these setting and was getting successful prints. Except however for the D6,it still comes out warped. Not sure what more I could do or settings I could change to fix my issue. Any help would be appreciated
Same. Been trying to find a solution to the d6 specifically
@@arodnap760 I had seen somewhere about hollowing out the D6,I haven't tried this but I might give it a shot
Did you try the pinned suggestions?
I'm just about to buy my first resin printer to follow along with your dice making video. Since they now offer mono lcd screens (anycubic photon mono x) would it be better to buy that rather then an elegoo Mars to print from?
Do you mind showing the size for each Doce? I'm having issues with sizing
Your supports come out straight, but when I do it, they show at an angle. What might I be doing wrong? This is my first attempt at making masters.
My wife and I lost a child due to miscarriage, we had the remains cremated and I am making a custom set of dice, so the child will always be a part of family game night. We have 6 other kids who all play.
Love this Chum!
Thanks Domo!
Wow, didn't know you were into dice Joe.
Hope you and your are doing well.
@@monomakes Oh yea! I have been resin printing my own. But NO WHERE NEAR as good as what Chum has been whipping up. I wanna buy some from him someday
The point where the supports meet, have all broken off with the supports...not terribly, but they won't be as sharp as the other points. Any ideas how to troubleshoot that? I'm very, very new to 3d printing (I've printed the rook and this one attempt at my dice set haha.)
Great video, man! Your vid and Rybonator's video on this support method helped A LOT when it came to printing my dice. I'm not expecting an answer cuz of how long ago this was posted but I'll try anyways: Why the transparent resin? I see a lot of dice makers make their masters from this. Is it just personal preference or does the resin bring up imperfections better? I haven't sanded the regular resin masters yet and I'm wondering if I should invest in clear. Thanks again for the great video!
He wrote 9 months ago: "I use Siraya simple clear resin in mine and have had no inhibition issues since."
The Siraya Tech Simple clear doesn't inhibit plat silicones as badly and when you polish the master the clear helps tell how well you've done it.
Great video. I intend to do some round edge dice. Any experience about support settings with these ?
Never printed round edge sorry.
I was wondering if you would be able to share the printing settings you used in Chitubox. I've been trying to print dice for a while now and I'm still having issues. Thanks in advance!
that will depend on what resin you are using really. but check the pinned comment
Where do i get this program to create dice . I have nothing to do during the pandemic and need a hobby .
Any suggestions on getting Chitubox to allow me to place supports along the edge? It will do them everywhere but where I need to place them.
Pinned comments
Brilliant tutorial!
Glad you liked it!
I've been resin printing since Dec 2019, FDM since march 2016. However, I've never been successful printing dice. The supports, even super lights which I use on my 3d Minis that come out awesome, leave marks I'm not happy with. BUT .. my real question for you is when you have say the D6 point down, and i dont know what layer height you're using. but i use 0.03 usually, the first layer is really just the point, and if you have a support hitting right on that tip, then the tip will print "inside" the support. and when you take it off, you'd likely have no point on that supported edge. So, do you just sand and reshape the edges? do you roll without a point on that one side? Really appreciate your help. Honestly, Im just printing the dice to have as a prop. I dont play or paint, i just want to have a successful self-printed dice set :)
FWIW, my support settings are WAY lighter than yours. Your light settings are more "aggressive" than my heavy. And even with that, the tip looks to be a horror show on the pointing down edge.
Masters will always be sanded to prepare for molding. I’ve had zero issues with points on any of the dice after they have been sanded and polished.
Amazing!
Thanks!
So my dice come out looking very crisp, but I have a problem The point on the D20 that is facing the plate, seems to be longer/sharper. How do I prevent this from happening?
Its generally a non-issue as the small amount of extra material on the point gets sanded down when you polish the masters.
Great video!
I have tried twice to print my dice and they all seem to fall off the supports so I get no dice and slightly shaped resin stuck to the bottom and the supports are nicely printed and hanging from the plate. Is it because they are too heavy? The second time I tried, I tried heavy supports and the same thing happened. Not sure what else to do. I am using an Anycubic Photon. Thanks!
Try lowering your lift speed.
this is a late response, but for others reading with this issue. This sounds more like a "leveling the machine/plate" issue
thank you so much!
You're welcome!
awesome tutorial! I am getting some sagging in my walls. Would you be willing to share your settings for the siraya tech clear? I am also having issues where it is fusing at the base and into the die itself. I am printing on a mars. thanks!
If you are printing the dice directly on the base that is the cause of the curing into the dice itself. The elegoo mars has a longer cure time on the first layer so make sure to print the dice off the build plate using supports. As for the walls sagging maybe too thin of walls? I don't really know.
I'm having the same problem! My die sags down for about 0.3mm -.- Did you find any solution for it?
Been trying for weeks to print masters for my wife. Every time I remove the supports, I chip the hell out of the die. Will the hot water help prevent that?
Hey, I was wondering if you had any tips for getting the supports actually on the edge? I initially hit a rhythm and got a couple dice done pretty quick, but now it's completely dragging and I find myself hitting ctrl z for a couple minutes per support.
Zooming in usually helps. If a edge is refusing to be straight on the corner it’s ok as long as they are all angled the same way and as close as you can get them to the edge. You can see that on my D20 in the video
I changed the degree angle in the "middle" option for the support from 70 degrees to 0 (it forced me to use 0.02) and it worked for me.
great video. The only problem i have is no matter what i do i can't get the support to NOT angle :( cant get them straight
Thank you so much for this vid!
You're so welcome!
When I try this method it doesn't put the supports where I click and puts them much further along or on a face instead of the edge. Any ideas whats happening?
Read the pinned comments
I'm having a lot of trouble getting all of my supports to go straight down. they always want to kick out at an angle. It's insanely fiddly and gives me a lot of anxiety trying to get the straight down angle to snap. Is there a fix for this? D8 drove me crazy now I'm on first d10 and want to cry.
Read the pinned comment
@@ImagiNationLabswithRevChumley I found the comment! Thanks for all your help, I don't think it's pinned though.
Hey man, I really appreciate this video and it did inspire me to make my own masters. For the most part I was successful but I did get some inhibition in the numbers only. Do you find you have to clean/sand the numbers in some way to prevent this?
Silicone inhibition is a whole other can of worms. Look into inhibitX
I washed really well with a toothbrush and IPA, got in the numbers really good, then washed really well again with a toothbrush and dawn dish soap and rinsed with straight water. Then finally laid them under the UV light again to really cure everything up. It worked perfectly for me. Inhibit X ruins my molds.
I use Siraya simple clear resin in mine and have had no inhibition issues since.
@@ImagiNationLabswithRevChumley I also used Siraya clear. I actually did the same with two cleanings with dish soap and a toothbrush, but it was my first try, so I will just make sure I get deep, and I'll wait two weeks, rather than one. Had to learn somehow. The inhibition was slight, so atleast I have some molds to experiment with. Thanks!
What silicone are you using? I can mold the day after printing with sorta clear 37 and Siraya tech simple clear.
Doing my first print now! I think they may fall as my lift speed seems a tad high. Hopefully not but we'll see.
where i can command dice master please
Couple of questions….
1) do you find changing the layer height makes any difference? I believe my default is 0.05, should I change to to 0.02 or would it not make any difference?
2) you talk of not needing supports for islands in the middle of the numbers. All instinct says they should not print properly without them so what exactly happens that means the supports aren’t needed?
1. Given you have to sand and polish the masters anyway, it makes little to no difference. If you have an extremely bold number font, it may help with visible stepping in the fonts, but you would have to have eagle eyes to see that. 2. I said my font didn't really need supports, but I also said if you have a different font you may need them and that it wouldn't hurt to put them in.
@@ImagiNationLabswithRevChumley thank you for the info.
Where Can I Find that Facebook Group. I would like to try that program.
Definitely worked better than what I was doing before, but the edge on the d6 still looks longer/warped than the others 🙃 tried on my Mars and on my works $250,000 printer. I think I'm cursed lol
How are you printing master without supporting overhangs on your numbers? Every time I've tried that they don't turn out.
what version of chitubox are you using? I am giving this a go but the supports kick out no matter what I do at an angle
Edit: ah i see yours does the same thing on the d20. Printing a test now, with me luck! you have earned my sub
Yeah some refuse to lay down straight, just make sure they all are angled the same way if it makes you. Good luck!
@@ImagiNationLabswithRevChumley i did 2 test prints of a full set with this method, mars and photon s. They came out SO GOOD! thank you for sharing this!
Glad it worked for you! Good to know all those failed dice masters i've printed over the months were worth it :)
Great video - though I wish you included the polishing process, just for fun!
Bahahahaha, 10 seconds in and I'm already like, "This guy knows me!!"
How do you separate dices from OpenSCAD to single dice .stl? Thanks
Personally I brought them into Simplify3d (any 3d slicer should work) and separated shells, then I could pick dice individually and save them out as individual stls. There may be a way to do it in OpenScad but I didnt try.
@@ImagiNationLabswithRevChumley Thank you :)
You can find the info info ^above using the "//" command @4:55-6:50- Where is the d8? By using this command you can remove other dice and render the dice that you want.
What layer height did you go with on these?
I just do .05 as I will be sanding the crap out of them during the polish phase anyway and it’s faster.
@@ImagiNationLabswithRevChumley Thanks! just finished testing it out and I had some air bubbles trapped in the dice. Have you ever experienced that? I am using a different resin (water washable clear blue) so that could be an issue. Besides that this worked like a charm!
Yes i've had air bubbles trapped in there. I try to let my resin settle in the tank if i've stirred or poured new in until its clear of bubbles before I start the print and make sure that there is enough in the vat so that z lift doesnt raise it above the surface, other than that I've not found a way to prevent it, if you find out how, let me know!
@@ImagiNationLabswithRevChumley I had just poured the resin when I tried this so I'm trying again now after the resin set for awhile. Thank you again!
Man, how much to have you print a set for me? Amazing. I wish I could afford a nice resin printer but... Canadian dollar sucks
I don’t sell masters, but there are quite a few good vendors that do, check out the blue mimic.
where is the program??
Am I the only one where on the sharper angle dice I can't get it to do the straight supports? I am using the latest version of chitubox and it wont work for me.
Check the pinned comment about support settings
Anyone have an issue with numbers getting clogged with excess resin due to light bleed? ive got fairly perfect shapes, but the bottom numbers arent very sharp. I know its due to excess resin not draining away, i just dont know how to fix it.
Could try lowering layer exposure by a second or two and possibly making the supports a little longer.
Are you aiming for the supports to cover the actual edge of the dice, or to be right next to the edges, but securely on the face? And if not, have you tried that?
on the edge or as close as Chitubox will let you. with light supports you'd have to get a microscope out to see the difference.
Does anyone have the download file to that dice program? I’ve been waiting to get into the Facebook group for a week.
www.thingiverse.com/thing:3472349/files was posted in the comments. I dont think its the one from the group though
ImagiNation Labs with Rev Chumley thank you! I got my printer today so this is going to be a life saver
Thx man, really helps. Tiny note, i see your drink standing on the table while you work with chemicals, thats not recommended. Be safe ;)
Fusion 360 wall supports and blender bumpers. Takes way less time than this approach.
Awesome. This looks like the Github project for the dice creation tool, hasn't been updated since 2017 though. Found it by googling for openscad rp dice generator for the link-adverse...there seem to be other options as well so might be worth exploring a bit.
github.com/jcarolinares/openscad-dice-generator/blob/master/openscad-dice-generator.scad