If I’m anything like you at 60, I’ll be a happy man. I have a p40, 3 years now, no problems. I like Joe Deerys X6 coupled with his 8G, as it gives you better and more options. I’ll be looking into that for next project. Thanks for the vid as it’s been a long wait in the making.
So the Honda motor is the exact shape of the back of that gearbox so I just take a sheet of silicone gasket material and cut a gasket for it so nothing gets into that shaft area
Go air diaphragm and never look back. Get yourself one of the 1/2” or 1” all-flo pumps and be done with leaks. Off the trigger as long as you’d like. No need to prime anything either.
Over 50’ but not sure about 60’. The system is simple, reliable, and I use it for everything except surface cleaning. I would make sure to run 1” plumbing and 5/8”. Will be able to use all the existing plumbing and manifold you have for the AR.
Yes I do. I will wash an entire house and switch over to just water and rinse. I found you on FB and invited you to the Air Diaphragm group. Any and all questions you may have others can help answer for you. The system is just as simple as a 12v but more reliable and more volume. You may have more pressure with your gas roof pump but having zero leaks and issues will save time and headaches in the long run. People running air systems have been able to go 5+ years on the same pumps. Just want to help you out. I watch all your stuff and just wanted to throw out another option to help you.
Have you considered the X6? Joe Deery at powerful improvements has been running it without issues. He recently had an electrical issue but i'm sure it's something that can be troubleshooted or easily avoidable. Best part is you can siamese it with your 10gpm PW and get 12-15gpm total out of it.
@@housewashing5693 you’re going to keep struggling then. I’ve yet to hear about someone go any measurable time without issues on those machines. Sure there’s folks who claim to go months or even a year. But I call BS on those or at least those are outliers. I would hope to see you find ways to make it more reliable
@@housewashing5693 any of the above. You post great educational content on mechanical stuff and maintenance, I’d like to watch some vids of you actually washing if possible. For example, I really enjoyed your bleacher cleaning video
Get the AR make sure you have 1” everything supplying it run 35-40’ of 3/4 bypass and run it through your buffer tank with uni seals and coil it up under your float valve everything from the pump bump up to 3/4 supply to a 3/4-1” reel then 5/8 chem hose most these guys have all these problems because all there lines running to and from them are too small I have 3 on trucks now the oldest is almost 4 years old it’s leaked once also don’t run it right up next to the red
I've been using D30/AR30 pumps for decades on a lawn /agri chemical application systems. It requires the bypass to go into the chemical tank and the bypass helps keep my chemicals agitated. the D30 came with a different pressure regularor that you rigged up. It has two different bypass fittings with a ball valve on each. I have acidentally started my engine with both bypasses shut off. It immediately blows off the diaphram that you are busting...except...My diapharam looks different than your blue one. Mine is a rubber cup that will blow off or split, I've googled AR30 and the links take me to the D30/AR30. I have never seen a picture of one with that blue diaphram that you have. I believe that on the AR30, the pressure HAS to go somewhere. I'm surprised that the AR45 regulates the pressure so that it doesn't just bust something when you run the bypass in a loop. Perhaps a remote start/stop switch would keep the AR45 working at it's best. If you want to stop spraying for a minute...turn it off. IDK
If it's returning back to your batch tank the safety seal would never blow. We are doing something different and it doesn't like it. I appreciate your input.
What electric motor did you use on those hose reels? Im making all my own reels with 1/4 inch steel from my plasma cnc and im not spending $300+ on electric motors.
If you go 24 volt you need to add for two batteries. Then another $100 for a charger. You can buy a gas pump for that price. www.sprayerdepot.com/products/comet-p40gr-poly-soft-wash-diaphragm-pump-honda-gx200-recoil-start-on-base-plate
Oh man, you need to dump AR like dumping an old Vega! I’ve had great success with Udor. No leaks, no issues whatsoever. I have a Kappa 55-GR and a Kappa 43-GR. I only put fresh water through these, chemicals through a Pumptec XPVC pump. Udor has a similar pump to the AR45 it’s called a ZETA 40/P GR and ZETA 85/P GR. Is chemical resistant with poly heads. Paul at the Powerwashstore can’t speak highly enough about UDOR. UA-cam his videos and you will see him servicing these pumps. Brian Shipley has one ZETA 40/P GR in stock he’s trying to move, he told me this four months ago. I would go with UDOR and spare the crappy quality you’re finding with AR.
Ive got both udor zeta 45 and 85.make sure to get the 85 if you'll.the 45 doesn't perform well.Good honest video as always.good information in your videos.thanks!!@@housewashing5693
As an old mechanic, I worked on several Vega engines. If they had sleeved that engine from the get-go, it would have been as good as any. We had them sleeved on the rebuilds and never saw them again. It was one of the first cars with the fuel pump in the tank as well.
If I’m anything like you at 60, I’ll be a happy man.
I have a p40, 3 years now, no problems. I like Joe Deerys X6 coupled with his 8G, as it gives you better and more options. I’ll be looking into that for next project.
Thanks for the vid as it’s been a long wait in the making.
I think I have a solution to making this new pump more user friendly. Stay tuned for the next video
So the Honda motor is the exact shape of the back of that gearbox so I just take a sheet of silicone gasket material and cut a gasket for it so nothing gets into that shaft area
Sweet. I would like to see a vid or some photos
That's perfect
We like comet better 🎉~ we have multiple of both models but like comet p 40 better , that’s just our opinion . Good luck buddy and great 👍 video
Thank you. I was talked out of the P40 when I bought my AR45. They said parts were not readily available.
Go air diaphragm and never look back. Get yourself one of the 1/2” or 1” all-flo pumps and be done with leaks. Off the trigger as long as you’d like. No need to prime anything either.
Will it shoot 60 ft high?
Over 50’ but not sure about 60’. The system is simple, reliable, and I use it for everything except surface cleaning. I would make sure to run 1” plumbing and 5/8”. Will be able to use all the existing plumbing and manifold you have for the AR.
@@karrotstic Do you rinse with it?
Yes I do. I will wash an entire house and switch over to just water and rinse. I found you on FB and invited you to the Air Diaphragm group. Any and all questions you may have others can help answer for you. The system is just as simple as a 12v but more reliable and more volume. You may have more pressure with your gas roof pump but having zero leaks and issues will save time and headaches in the long run. People running air systems have been able to go 5+ years on the same pumps. Just want to help you out. I watch all your stuff and just wanted to throw out another option to help you.
@@karrotstic I've been checking the group out. Very nice...
Hi Kenny. Great videos! Keep 'em coming. What camera setup are you using? I want to start making some videos of our washing process as well.
Hat mounted gopro sessions 4.
North Georgia airless has a fix for vibration call them and ask for the 3 plates that go over the heads on your AR 45 I did it and no more leaks
I'll look into that. Thanks
Have you considered the X6? Joe Deery at powerful improvements has been running it without issues. He recently had an electrical issue but i'm sure it's something that can be troubleshooted or easily avoidable. Best part is you can siamese it with your 10gpm PW and get 12-15gpm total out of it.
I just like gas being an old mechanic.
@@housewashing5693 you’re going to keep struggling then. I’ve yet to hear about someone go any measurable time without issues on those machines. Sure there’s folks who claim to go months or even a year. But I call BS on those or at least those are outliers. I would hope to see you find ways to make it more reliable
Always get great info from your videos….would really like to see more actual wash videos if possible
Edited or full wash videos?
@@housewashing5693 any of the above. You post great educational content on mechanical stuff and maintenance, I’d like to watch some vids of you actually washing if possible. For example, I really enjoyed your bleacher cleaning video
I'll see what i can do. @@clintsmith9662
Thanks for the video, was about to buy this. Going with the p40 now
I was done with the AR45. Now I think I'm done with AR. Getting a Comet can't be worse.
Get the AR make sure you have 1” everything supplying it run 35-40’ of 3/4 bypass and run it through your buffer tank with uni seals and coil it up under your float valve everything from the pump bump up to 3/4 supply to a 3/4-1” reel then 5/8 chem hose most these guys have all these problems because all there lines running to and from them are too small I have 3 on trucks now the oldest is almost 4 years old it’s leaked once also don’t run it right up next to the red
I've been using D30/AR30 pumps for decades on a lawn /agri chemical application systems. It requires the bypass to go into the chemical tank and the bypass helps keep my chemicals agitated. the D30 came with a different pressure regularor that you rigged up. It has two different bypass fittings with a ball valve on each. I have acidentally started my engine with both bypasses shut off. It immediately blows off the diaphram that you are busting...except...My diapharam looks different than your blue one. Mine is a rubber cup that will blow off or split, I've googled AR30 and the links take me to the D30/AR30. I have never seen a picture of one with that blue diaphram that you have. I believe that on the AR30, the pressure HAS to go somewhere. I'm surprised that the AR45 regulates the pressure so that it doesn't just bust something when you run the bypass in a loop. Perhaps a remote start/stop switch would keep the AR45 working at it's best. If you want to stop spraying for a minute...turn it off. IDK
If it's returning back to your batch tank the safety seal would never blow. We are doing something different and it doesn't like it. I appreciate your input.
@@housewashing5693 It only blew when I had a ball valve that came on the origional pressure regulator, accidentally turned off
What electric motor did you use on those hose reels? Im making all my own reels with 1/4 inch steel from my plasma cnc and im not spending $300+ on electric motors.
The links are in the hose reel video's description.
All these gas pumps are junk.Downstream and save yourself all these headaches.When you need a stronger mix just use a 12 volt or a pump sprayer.
I went through two 12 volts in one year. Bit it's still an option for sure.
Hey Kenny! How are you? Have you heard of South East softwash's new Super 8 (24V)? Should fit right into your existing hoses and manifold.
I think so. Isn't it like $3000?
If you go 24 volt you need to add for two batteries. Then another $100 for a charger. You can buy a gas pump for that price. www.sprayerdepot.com/products/comet-p40gr-poly-soft-wash-diaphragm-pump-honda-gx200-recoil-start-on-base-plate
Try antiseize on the engine shafts.
I did. We'll see how it works in a year?
DANGIT MAN! Why can’t things just work out???
Lol. I'm going broke buying beer working on these AR's!!
12v, 24v, super 8 or the sweet 16
I'm a gas guy
Where did you buy the street 45 elbow from?
ace hardware
@@housewashing5693 stainless?
No. Bronze
Oh man, you need to dump AR like dumping an old Vega! I’ve had great success with Udor. No leaks, no issues whatsoever. I have a Kappa 55-GR and a Kappa 43-GR. I only put fresh water through these, chemicals through a Pumptec XPVC pump. Udor has a similar pump to the AR45 it’s called a ZETA 40/P GR and ZETA 85/P GR. Is chemical resistant with poly heads. Paul at the Powerwashstore can’t speak highly enough about UDOR. UA-cam his videos and you will see him servicing these pumps. Brian Shipley has one ZETA 40/P GR in stock he’s trying to move, he told me this four months ago. I would go with UDOR and spare the crappy quality you’re finding with AR.
Thanks for the info. I'm done with AR'S. Come next spring, I will have something different for sure.
Ive got both udor zeta 45 and 85.make sure to get the 85 if you'll.the 45 doesn't perform well.Good honest video as always.good information in your videos.thanks!!@@housewashing5693
As an old mechanic, I worked on several Vega engines. If they had sleeved that engine from the get-go, it would have been as good as any. We had them sleeved on the rebuilds and never saw them again. It was one of the first cars with the fuel pump in the tank as well.
@@mowerdog Interesting!
I don't think I am ready for an AR45.
That happens because you turn the regulator while the pump running
If I reduce the pressure it relieves through the pop off valve. I show that in this or another vid