We used to use plastic syringes for the kero syrup. Make a stand to hold one syringe upright, with the plunger removed, on the scale, reset scale to zero and with another syringe slowly add the syrup. Get the kind of syringe that has a short nozzle with a cover. LUR-LOK was a brand name, and I'm not sure in the spelling. The second one can be any type. 45 years ago any grain elevator or animal supply would have them. Today, who knows where you can get them. Makes getting the proper amount of syrup into the mix less messy!
Yes, the Karo Syrup is messy, I will try your idea. Where you using Karo Syrup in rocket fuel and if so how long ago was that? Thanks for your comment!
Go to my home page and you will see many examples of sugar motor tests. If you just want to see an open grain burn then go here. ua-cam.com/video/lWgjcKsujok/v-deo.html My home page: UA-cam.com/TheRocketeer Thanks for your comment!!
An alturnative to karo syrup may be , pure maple syrup . The sugar content would have to be compared , to be an addiquit componet. Not to mention that it's a lot closer to liquid form !
Hi, thanks for your awesome videos. Why do you devide the propellant of a sugar rocket motor into mulitple grains and not a single large segment? Can I build a 1 inch pvc motor with a combustion chamber length of 240mm with only one propellant segment, so directly cast the propellant in the pvc pipe?
It is possible to make a rocket motor by pouring a single grain, but it may lead to some issues. Pouring a single grain could make it difficult to remove the core tool in a long core, and the PVC pipe may become very flexible when hot. Therefore, it is recommended to start with a fuel length of 205mm and increase the length gradually. Casting a bunch of grains, storing them in desiccant, and then assembling a couple of motors at a time is a better approach. Rocket motors need to be ignited from the top to perform well. It's important to keep a safe distance when testing the motors to avoid any mishaps. So, it's advisable to keep your distance when testing and stay safe during the process.
@@TheRocketeer Thanks! can I also use normal supermarket sugar and the potassium nitrate to make the propellant and easily cast that into the grain mold?
Starting with dry components always helps. The Kno3 can be placed on a cookie sheet in the oven at 200F (94C) for an hour if you are concerned. The casting process will help dry the fuel and it will remain dry if sealed in a plastic bag. Desicant can be added to the storage if the fuel is not used for months. Thick food storage bags made for freezing food or storage for printer filament is an effective barrier. I have found sandwich bags are only good as temporary storage and can let moisture in over time. I hope that helps.
This is great and thanks for all the info. One question: when you add times like "130C 10 minutes", does this refer to how long you keep the mix at that temperature or is it how long the whole process has taken? Thanks for all you do! Great channel...-Dan
It refers to the amount of time the process has taken up to that point. Once the propellant has melted and is no longer thick I usually add a couple of minutes. Thanks for your comments!
Well done. Good idea to update the video. I have a question about the coring rods. I have 3/8 inch steel rods. Easier for me to get than the aluminum. Will their be a problem with this e.g. iron reaction in the fuel? I know they will conduct the heat more but I will wear protective gloves. Also, where do you get your casting tube and phenolic liner from for your Loki engine? I am having trouble sourcing that.
I don't recommend steel because it could cause a spark. Delrin (acetal) rod works the best. It is inexpensive, easy to shape, does not transfer heat well and it is slippery. I got the standard casting tubes from Always Ready Rocketry. alwaysreadyrocketry.com/product/standard-casting-tubes/ I will update the comment section with the web address. Let me know how everything works out for you. My email can be found on the "About" tab. I am working on more videos for flexi-fuel and another mystery sugar!
My question is this ? After blending 60/40 Pot. nitrate and sugar, would adding a small quantity of black gun powder increase thrust ? I have a few mortor fireworks that I have had for years and want to "carefully" cut them open and get the powder from them. Additionally, I want to cut open some larger size colored smoke bombs and mix that powder to my sugar fuel to leave a smoke stream when taking off. My question is about the fireworks powder. Not the colored smoke. That was an afterthought. Lol Will it give me more pounds of thrust ?
It takes around 6 - 8 minutes to heat the fuel slowly. The power required for an induction cooktop depends on how much fuel is made at one time. I don't go over 600 watts for most batches of propellant.
ok, so these are grains for a re-loadable system? Any way to make single use H motors with PVC schedule 40 pipe? do all 4 of those grains equal an H220 or is each grain an H220?
Can I just use regular cardboard tubing? Like toilet paper or paper towel tubes? And how to I know the diameter of the core? I've made some KNO2 + Sugar PVC pipe rocket motors and am looking to be a little safer (really it's my 12yr old who is into this, I'm just the safety tech and the $$)
Yes, you can also use a cereal box for the casting liner. The core size is dependent on the motor diameter and is listed in every video, for a 38mm motor it is 1/2" and 3/8" for a 1" PVC motor. This activity is not suitable for a 12 year old unless very carefully supervised. I recommend an induction cook plate for making rocket fuel. Be careful and have fun.
I get good results making engines the dry method. I never cook my fuel .I use convection sugar, Potassium Nitrate in a nutra-bullet. 1 for fuel, and 1 for kitty litter clay.
265 F is pretty hot for flex fuel. Quoting Dan Polino in his 'How to Build a Sugar Rocket' page 352, "Once the fuel mixture reaches 210 degrees", unplug and immediately pour' Even doing KNSB I never go above 225 F. For safety, you might also want to have a bowl of cold water close in the event of sticky propellant on fingers.
I have cast the fuel at 210°F and it produces a rather soft and gummy grain for me even after a week of cure time. I think the corn syrup plays a role here. Over the last four years I have found that gently heating the fuel and driving off some of the moisture makes for a more robust grain. Casting at 250 - 265°F makes the propellant quite fluid and will lengthen the pot life allowing 4 - 6 38mm grains to be filled. I can then pull the coring tool in 15 minutes. What I would like to know is how Dan Pollino pulled the coring tool out of a 2' long motor without a winch! No aluminum foil here, just WD40. Thanks for your comment!
@@TheRocketeer The 'soft and gummy' is characteristic of flex-fuel. Driving off much of the water in the corn syrup from over cooking makes it more like regular KNSB, for short BATES style grains that's no problem.the smoothness of the coring rod makes a difference. I have some mandrels with a few tiny imperfections on the surface that make it difficult to extract. I try to take good care of my mandrels and discard if they start becoming 'difficult' to extract because of dings or other surface damage. I've pulled 7 foot long mandrels from case bonded sugar motors...plastic/paper wrapped.
@@stanisawgorczyca6460 The corn syrup is used to dissolve the sucrose at a lower temperature instead of melting it at high heat. Adding corn syrup also prevents the grains from becoming brittle and reduces the chance of cracking when under thrust. Your English is fine, I did not understand the question. I hope that helps.
Recently got into the hobby, this is perfect timing!
We used to use plastic syringes for the kero syrup. Make a stand to hold one syringe upright, with the plunger removed, on the scale, reset scale to zero and with another syringe slowly add the syrup. Get the kind of syringe that has a short nozzle with a cover. LUR-LOK was a brand name, and I'm not sure in the spelling. The second one can be any type.
45 years ago any grain elevator or animal supply would have them. Today, who knows where you can get them. Makes getting the proper amount of syrup into the mix less messy!
Yes, the Karo Syrup is messy, I will try your idea.
Where you using Karo Syrup in rocket fuel and if so how long ago was that? Thanks for your comment!
I tagged you in a video of my KNSB rocket motor's static test fire,It worked very well!.
Congratulations on a successful test, thanks for sharing!
Congratulation. Excellent videos
Thank you very much!
Great video, thanks ❤
Glad it was helpful!
i am in love with this channel.. you explain very well sir.. you will reach the heights soon..
Can you use brown sugar
Brown sugar would burn slower due to the addition of molasses. I have not tried brown sugar.
@@TheRocketeer thankyou brother
Love the video, just wish you would have demonstrated one of them burning of course but overall great job
Go to my home page and you will see many examples of sugar motor tests. If you just want to see an open grain burn then go here.
ua-cam.com/video/lWgjcKsujok/v-deo.html
My home page:
UA-cam.com/TheRocketeer
Thanks for your comment!!
An alturnative to karo syrup may be , pure maple syrup . The sugar content would have to be compared , to be an addiquit componet. Not to mention that it's a lot closer to liquid form !
Also a pre melted combo of powdered sugar and soda pop, might work.
Maple syrup is a good idea! I have considered honey as an alternative and will be testing it soon.
Around here, maple syrup is _significantly_ more expensive than Karo syrup.
Hi, thanks for your awesome videos. Why do you devide the propellant of a sugar rocket motor into mulitple grains and not a single large segment? Can I build a 1 inch pvc motor with a combustion chamber length of 240mm with only one propellant segment, so directly cast the propellant in the pvc pipe?
It is possible to make a rocket motor by pouring a single grain, but it may lead to some issues. Pouring a single grain could make it difficult to remove the core tool in a long core, and the PVC pipe may become very flexible when hot. Therefore, it is recommended to start with a fuel length of 205mm and increase the length gradually. Casting a bunch of grains, storing them in desiccant, and then assembling a couple of motors at a time is a better approach. Rocket motors need to be ignited from the top to perform well. It's important to keep a safe distance when testing the motors to avoid any mishaps. So, it's advisable to keep your distance when testing and stay safe during the process.
@@TheRocketeer Thanks! can I also use normal supermarket sugar and the potassium nitrate to make the propellant and easily cast that into the grain mold?
@@johnny4498 Yes, you can use regular sugar, corn syrup and potassium nitrate power.
I am worried my kno3 might get too humid after some months. After doing what you have done, will it be dry?
Starting with dry components always helps. The Kno3 can be placed on a cookie sheet in the oven at 200F (94C) for an hour if you are concerned. The casting process will help dry the fuel and it will remain dry if sealed in a plastic bag. Desicant can be added to the storage if the fuel is not used for months.
Thick food storage bags made for freezing food or storage for printer filament is an effective barrier. I have found sandwich bags are only good as temporary storage and can let moisture in over time. I hope that helps.
Can you replace the sugar in this video with sorbitol? so 65% KNO3, 18% sorbitol? or do you even need corn syrup with sorbitol fuel?
Yes, you can replace the sugar with sorbitol. Do not use corn syrup because it will make a gummy mess. Kno3 65% / Sorbitol 35% is what you want.
This is great and thanks for all the info. One question: when you add times like "130C 10 minutes", does this refer to how long you keep the mix at that temperature or is it how long the whole process has taken? Thanks for all you do! Great channel...-Dan
It refers to the amount of time the process has taken up to that point. Once the propellant has melted and is no longer thick I usually add a couple of minutes.
Thanks for your comments!
@@TheRocketeer Thanks for the quick reply! I do love you channel.
Well done. Good idea to update the video. I have a question about the coring rods. I have 3/8 inch steel rods. Easier for me to get than the aluminum. Will their be a problem with this e.g. iron reaction in the fuel? I know they will conduct the heat more but I will wear protective gloves. Also, where do you get your casting tube and phenolic liner from for your Loki engine? I am having trouble sourcing that.
I don't recommend steel because it could cause a spark. Delrin (acetal) rod works the best. It is inexpensive, easy to shape, does not transfer heat well and it is slippery.
I got the standard casting tubes from Always Ready Rocketry. alwaysreadyrocketry.com/product/standard-casting-tubes/
I will update the comment section with the web address.
Let me know how everything works out for you. My email can be found on the "About" tab. I am working on more videos for flexi-fuel and another mystery sugar!
My question is this ? After blending 60/40
Pot. nitrate and sugar, would adding a small quantity of black gun powder increase thrust ? I have a few mortor fireworks that I have had for years and want to "carefully" cut them open and get the powder from them. Additionally, I want to cut open some larger size colored smoke bombs and mix that powder to my sugar fuel to leave a smoke stream when taking off. My question is about the fireworks powder. Not the colored smoke. That was an afterthought. Lol
Will it give me more pounds of thrust ?
Black powder burns faster than sugar fuel and will probably cause an explosion. Sugar fuel does not really nead any help.
how long to make fuel from sorbitol and what power of the induction hob
It takes around 6 - 8 minutes to heat the fuel slowly. The power required for an induction cooktop depends on how much fuel is made at one time. I don't go over 600 watts for most batches of propellant.
Can you do it without heat?
You can make fire without heat but not rocket fuel.
ok, so these are grains for a re-loadable system? Any way to make single use H motors with PVC schedule 40 pipe? do all 4 of those grains equal an H220 or is each grain an H220?
All four equal an H-220.
I wonder if adding some iron oxide would help the burn.
I have not had good luck with RIO in two different test.
@@TheRocketeerIt makes a big difference in faster burning with iron oxide.
Can I just use regular cardboard tubing? Like toilet paper or paper towel tubes? And how to I know the diameter of the core? I've made some KNO2 + Sugar PVC pipe rocket motors and am looking to be a little safer (really it's my 12yr old who is into this, I'm just the safety tech and the $$)
Yes, you can also use a cereal box for the casting liner. The core size is dependent on the motor diameter and is listed in every video, for a 38mm motor it is 1/2" and 3/8" for a 1" PVC motor.
This activity is not suitable for a 12 year old unless very carefully supervised. I recommend an induction cook plate for making rocket fuel. Be careful and have fun.
Is it worth using corn syrup with sorbitol in a mixture?
It is not necessary because sorbitol melts at a low temperature. Besides that it just makes a goey mess.
I get good results making engines the dry method. I never cook my fuel .I use convection sugar, Potassium Nitrate in a nutra-bullet. 1 for fuel, and 1 for kitty litter clay.
Yes, that is easy and works great for smaller motors. Packing fuel does not scale well for larger motors.
265 F is pretty hot for flex fuel. Quoting Dan Polino in his 'How to Build a Sugar Rocket' page 352, "Once the fuel mixture reaches 210 degrees", unplug and immediately pour' Even doing KNSB I never go above 225 F.
For safety, you might also want to have a bowl of cold water close in the event of sticky propellant on fingers.
I have cast the fuel at 210°F and it produces a rather soft and gummy grain for me even after a week of cure time. I think the corn syrup plays a role here.
Over the last four years I have found that gently heating the fuel and driving off some of the moisture makes for a more robust grain. Casting at 250 - 265°F makes the propellant quite fluid and will lengthen the pot life allowing 4 - 6 38mm grains to be filled. I can then pull the coring tool in 15 minutes.
What I would like to know is how Dan Pollino pulled the coring tool out of a 2' long motor without a winch! No aluminum foil here, just WD40.
Thanks for your comment!
@@TheRocketeer The 'soft and gummy' is characteristic of flex-fuel. Driving off much of the water in the corn syrup from over cooking makes it more like regular KNSB, for short BATES style grains that's no problem.the smoothness of the coring rod makes a difference. I have some mandrels with a few tiny imperfections on the surface that make it difficult to extract. I try to take good care of my mandrels and discard if they start becoming 'difficult' to extract because of dings or other surface damage. I've pulled 7 foot long mandrels from case bonded sugar motors...plastic/paper wrapped.
Where do you buy that pan?
I bought it off Amazon, sorry for the late reply.
Another list I’m on 😂
Thanks 👍
Which gives you corn syrup in the fuel?
The corn syrup is added with a small paper cup.
@@TheRocketeer Maybe you didn't understand me because I'm studying English, but I mean the functions of corn syrup in the mixture?
@@stanisawgorczyca6460 The corn syrup is used to dissolve the sucrose at a lower temperature instead of melting it at high heat. Adding corn syrup also prevents the grains from becoming brittle and reduces the chance of cracking when under thrust.
Your English is fine, I did not understand the question. I hope that helps.
only do this outside.