It's worth noting that, not only is the long arm kit more expensive, but the install process is significantly more complicated. This includes permanent changes to the frame itself. I have teraflex drop brackets (3.5" lift) and I think the ride is fantastic. I probably will go to long arms in the future, but not feeling a rush to.
As someone who ran MetalCloak front control arm drop brackets, I’ll say that initially, they were okay for ride quality. However, over the span of a year, I noticed they fatigued fairly quickly and started introducing some unwanted characteristics in driving and handling. The steering gradually became a bit too floaty, and the Jeep didn’t feel as planted on the road.
Good video, Ali. I have both drop brackets and MC control arms on a 3” lift. I liked the ease of flex with the MC arms and wanted to keep them as parallel as I could. It’s overkill to have both but I DD my Jeep and I like how it drives, so I leave it alone. Your 392 looks pristine! 👍🏼 Do you have any experience with bronco raptors compared to your 392? It’d be interesting content to hear your thoughts on it. Keep up the good work 🙌🏼
We purchased a ‘24 Bronco Heritage Limited Edition for my wife earlier this year. I checked out a Bronco Raptor at that time. I can’t really weigh in on that too much. I drive my wife’s Bronco occasionally and I honestly prefer the Wrangler. She loves it and I think it’s probably “easier” to drive compared to the Wrangler. Zero chance I would sell my 392 for a Raptor Bronco.
@ Interesting take on the heritage not being a first choice for you. My buddy got a 2 door heritage. It is nice. Drives well. But I was only in it for 15 mins or so. Thanks for your thoughts on that. 👍🏻
So it's all relative to the individual's perspective. But; you can't beat the math/geometry. The flatter the better; you'll especially notice it in the front; no matter how you get there. I have an AEV JL370; so if I'm on the drop brackets, I personally need a new line. If you bend a bracket, they're serviceable; long arm brackets or drop. If you bend a factory bracket, you have to fix those too. Has anyone looked at the factory rear brackets on a Bronco or 4RNR; they all hang lower than any Jeep with a drop bracket. Jeep guys. Would you give the guys at 74Weld a hard time for stock suspension on 40's? It's still not a long arm? If you go down the rabbit hole long enough, no matter what you add to your rig, it's still not a tube chassis with double triangulated 4 link front and rear that's perfectly flat and in a LCG chassis. So when is enough, enough?
Great video and explanation. Would you suggest I run control arm drop brackets on my 21 Gladiator Rubicon. It has the Mopar 2” lift with the Teraflex 1.5” leveling kit. I was planning kind getting the Teraflex control arm drop brackets but am not sure if it is needed for my application. Thank in advance.
If you’re not happy with the way the Jeep is handling, then it’s not a bad idea. However, with that amount of lift, I don’t think the drop brackets are really necessary.
Hey Ali, I've got a 2013 JKUR w/3.73 gears (10th Anniversary ed. "hard rock" ). I run 33s, but I want to run 35s. I've put a 2.5" suspension lift w/Falcon shocks. What other changes should I make to run the bigger tires? Re-gear?
I had a similar Jeep to what you are describing and ran 35's with the stock 3.73 gearing for a little over a year. It worked well enough that I decided not to re-gear. I even drove the Jeep from NC to Moab, Utah, that way for the Easter Jeep Safari. When I eventually moved to 37's, I had to re-gear and went with a 5.13. That caused the Jeep to rev a little high on the interstate, but gave it great power all around. If you find that it feels too underpowered after the tire swap, I would move up to a 4.88. That will give you more gearing than you really need with a 35, but if you ever move up to a 37, you will still be covered.
It's worth noting that, not only is the long arm kit more expensive, but the install process is significantly more complicated. This includes permanent changes to the frame itself. I have teraflex drop brackets (3.5" lift) and I think the ride is fantastic. I probably will go to long arms in the future, but not feeling a rush to.
As someone who ran MetalCloak front control arm drop brackets, I’ll say that initially, they were okay for ride quality. However, over the span of a year, I noticed they fatigued fairly quickly and started introducing some unwanted characteristics in driving and handling. The steering gradually became a bit too floaty, and the Jeep didn’t feel as planted on the road.
Woah Thanks!
Honesty about products is the stuff man. Lots of people just settle; Say nothing and let everyone get scammed
I would have bought this🥲
Great video
Good breakdown, Ali.
Excellent video Ali keep em coming
Good video, Ali.
I have both drop brackets and MC control arms on a 3” lift.
I liked the ease of flex with the MC arms and wanted to keep them as parallel as I could. It’s overkill to have both but I DD my Jeep and I like how it drives, so I leave it alone.
Your 392 looks pristine! 👍🏼
Do you have any experience with bronco raptors compared to your 392?
It’d be interesting content to hear your thoughts on it.
Keep up the good work 🙌🏼
We purchased a ‘24 Bronco Heritage Limited Edition for my wife earlier this year. I checked out a Bronco Raptor at that time. I can’t really weigh in on that too much. I drive my wife’s Bronco occasionally and I honestly prefer the Wrangler. She loves it and I think it’s probably “easier” to drive compared to the Wrangler. Zero chance I would sell my 392 for a Raptor Bronco.
@
Interesting take on the heritage not being a first choice for you.
My buddy got a 2 door heritage. It is nice. Drives well. But I was only in it for 15 mins or so.
Thanks for your thoughts on that. 👍🏻
So it's all relative to the individual's perspective. But; you can't beat the math/geometry. The flatter the better; you'll especially notice it in the front; no matter how you get there.
I have an AEV JL370; so if I'm on the drop brackets, I personally need a new line.
If you bend a bracket, they're serviceable; long arm brackets or drop. If you bend a factory bracket, you have to fix those too.
Has anyone looked at the factory rear brackets on a Bronco or 4RNR; they all hang lower than any Jeep with a drop bracket. Jeep guys. Would you give the guys at 74Weld a hard time for stock suspension on 40's? It's still not a long arm?
If you go down the rabbit hole long enough, no matter what you add to your rig, it's still not a tube chassis with double triangulated 4 link front and rear that's perfectly flat and in a LCG chassis.
So when is enough, enough?
Great video and explanation. Would you suggest I run control arm drop brackets on my 21 Gladiator Rubicon. It has the Mopar 2” lift with the Teraflex 1.5” leveling kit. I was planning kind getting the Teraflex control arm drop brackets but am not sure if it is needed for my application. Thank in advance.
If you’re not happy with the way the Jeep is handling, then it’s not a bad idea. However, with that amount of lift, I don’t think the drop brackets are really necessary.
@ Thank you for letting me know I greatly appreciate it.
Hey Ali, I've got a 2013 JKUR w/3.73 gears (10th Anniversary ed. "hard rock" ). I run 33s, but I want to run 35s. I've put a 2.5" suspension lift w/Falcon shocks. What other changes should I make to run the bigger tires? Re-gear?
I had a similar Jeep to what you are describing and ran 35's with the stock 3.73 gearing for a little over a year. It worked well enough that I decided not to re-gear. I even drove the Jeep from NC to Moab, Utah, that way for the Easter Jeep Safari. When I eventually moved to 37's, I had to re-gear and went with a 5.13. That caused the Jeep to rev a little high on the interstate, but gave it great power all around. If you find that it feels too underpowered after the tire swap, I would move up to a 4.88. That will give you more gearing than you really need with a 35, but if you ever move up to a 37, you will still be covered.