Thanks for the video. It gives me a little more confidence to change my hydraulic pump on my Long 2460. My two pumps are backwards from yours. Steering in front.
Just a little note for you ,you're probably not gonna believe me but this is a true statement. I have that same tractor and fought for yrs with the hydraulic and transmission problems ,after doing research I found that I had been using the wrong fluids in it .except for engine ,Rotella t4 . Well guess what I use rollat4 in the hydraulic and transmission too and had 0 issues
You know, my mom had a friend come and work on my Dad's tractor. I've always worked on the tractor, but it takes someone else to actually get her to put any money into something... She's cheap like that with family and from what I just learned about your hydraulic seal issue. She royally screwed up by getting the guy to work on it. LONG story short, we've always had a little drip of oil after we park it; it's probably diesel and some hydraulic fluid. The man changed the starter and had to pull the hydraulic pump off to do it. Afterwards, he tells her that she's got a steady oil leak... Welp... She put a quart into and went to brush hog for just over an hour before all hell broke loose! Sadly, she's not the type of person to notice irregular engine noises and she has that engine smoked. Until I heard what said about that pump seal dawning out the engine oil from the timing cover, I assumed it was ignorance on her part for not putting enough oil... After all, oil doesn't just disappear! I can't believe it, but you're right! The tractor has always say half full of oil. I loved that tractor too! So did my dad, before he passed. It's just a shame, really... I might tear it down and go through it because the parts for this tractor are far cheaper that the John Deere 1050 we're going to buy to replace it. Then I'll hopefully get it back up and running for a standby tractor.
Hallo. Eine Hydraulikpumpe ist ab 5000 Betriebsstunden verschlissen. Das bedeutet das eine neue gekauft werden muss. Die hydraulikpumpe bekommt Gravitation im Gehäuse. Manchmal kann man eine defekte Pumpe an einem Geräusch des Systems hören. Dann muss sie neu.
These pumps were not worn out though, They were just leaking, but You are right. No amount of seals and orings will fix a pump with excessive clearances.
You make it seem easy. I'll have more confidence after watching your video. Thanks. Question: will the hydraulic system bleed itself? I have a mid 80's Long 610 2wd and need to change all the loader lines. Thanks and I'll be watching for more.
Bleeding the system requires cycling the affected components. If you change hydraulic hoses on your loader you will simply operate the loader to purge the air. The loader won't work very good at first and you will have to add fluid to the reservoir during bleeding.
Thanks. I got it done and the system holds a full bucket steady. No dipping or slow run to the ground. Now on to oil draining from the breather upon warm up. You vids are great !
great video, ive got an AC5040 thats leaking like as stuck hog, and the 3pt doesnt work, mine is leaking around the bell housing on the left side (if youre sitting on it) just curious if this was a place yours leaked. (5040 and longs are just about the same tractor if not identical)
The AC5040 is exactly the same tractor aside from paint and decals. I would love to see some pictures of the leak your talking about. You say the three point doesn't work. Is the power steering almost 1 finger to turn easy?
Hi, could you tell me the part numbers and/or which way each pump rotated. I understand one pump rotates clockwise and the other counter clockwise. I want to replace both pumps on my Long and having trouble getting information on pump rotation and part numbers.
I have a u350 and was wondering if you have ever talked to someone about engine issues and wondered if you can access all of the Rod caps from the small cover on the bottom of the oil pan, I have a knock I think could be the piston taping the head and oil pressure is about 45 lbs at idle rpm but wondering if piston could be replaced without breaking apart the whole tractor any information you might have would be helpful?
You absolutely can access all the rod bolts through the small access cover on the bottom. I did an inframe overhaul on that same tractor just the same way you are wanting to work on yours. Cylinder #1 is a bit of a trick to torque the rod cap down on reassembly, but it can definitely be done! With the symptoms you describe I would check for piston slap.
Thanks for your reply, I have 1545 showing on the hour meter and the cable was broken when I got it and not running. But I paid a thousand to buy it and another thousand to get the pump and injectors done and got it to run and it smokes blue after it’s warmed up and number 3 is really pounding and sounds like piston hitting the head and I’m 75 years old and I’m not sure if I want to attempt to dive into it at this point but everything is working on the tractor and not sure what I want to do. I feel that the knock is why the quit it and the owner passed is how I got it and if I put the money in it I would never get it back out on a sale. I’m just now bringing back two old Fords a 1946 9N and a 1948 8N and a few more weeks to finish them up and if I decide to fix the Long and I know it’s built like a Tank and strong old Tractor it’s been great chatting with you and you do good work from what I can see, again thanks for the information and maybe we can exchange phone numbers and chat sometime!
If the quadrant/ draft control itself isn't frozen itself, all you can do is pull the lift too and take a look. It's not complicated to do. Just dive in!
Thank you for the video, Question I have a 460 long it runs fine in Idol but as soon as I put it in gear it starts dumping motor oil out of the crank case breather. Would you happen to know the reason? Could this be an easy fix? Thank you
You were right the oil separator breather was the issue, replaced the old one and works perfectly fine. Can I soak the one I took off in gas or diesel to clean it out or should I just chunk it?
@@ciscogarcia498 i’m having the same issue with my long as you described. Idle it’s fine but as soon as I engage any hydraulics, motor oil will gush out of the breather. How did you replace the oil separator? Is it in the breather?
@@jessieogle8340 not off the top of my head, but UTB used several different hydraulic pump combinations on these tractors. Unfortunately most of the time you have to figure out what pump you have in order to get the right parts.
Sometimes putting the engine under a heavy load while repeatedly stomping and dumping the clutch will free one up, but many times the clutch has to be disassembled to get it free.
I’ve got them lose with tying to very heavy load with chain but I’ve also had to drill holes in bell housing and sprayed PB blaster in it and used 4/5 cans But it worked 😊
Thanks for the video. It gives me a little more confidence to change my hydraulic pump on my Long 2460. My two pumps are backwards from yours. Steering in front.
Just a little note for you ,you're probably not gonna believe me but this is a true statement. I have that same tractor and fought for yrs with the hydraulic and transmission problems ,after doing research I found that I had been using the wrong fluids in it .except for engine ,Rotella t4 . Well guess what I use rollat4 in the hydraulic and transmission too and had 0 issues
What oil did you end up going with i just bought long 560 runs great but doesn't want to move flushing all fluids and buy both new pums
You know, my mom had a friend come and work on my Dad's tractor. I've always worked on the tractor, but it takes someone else to actually get her to put any money into something... She's cheap like that with family and from what I just learned about your hydraulic seal issue. She royally screwed up by getting the guy to work on it.
LONG story short, we've always had a little drip of oil after we park it; it's probably diesel and some hydraulic fluid. The man changed the starter and had to pull the hydraulic pump off to do it. Afterwards, he tells her that she's got a steady oil leak... Welp... She put a quart into and went to brush hog for just over an hour before all hell broke loose! Sadly, she's not the type of person to notice irregular engine noises and she has that engine smoked.
Until I heard what said about that pump seal dawning out the engine oil from the timing cover, I assumed it was ignorance on her part for not putting enough oil... After all, oil doesn't just disappear! I can't believe it, but you're right! The tractor has always say half full of oil.
I loved that tractor too! So did my dad, before he passed. It's just a shame, really... I might tear it down and go through it because the parts for this tractor are far cheaper that the John Deere 1050 we're going to buy to replace it. Then I'll hopefully get it back up and running for a standby tractor.
UTB tractor from Brașov, România! Șold as Long in the USA!
I started to buy one like this long time ago but it was junked out, just couldn’t see it was worth it at that time 😊
Thanks!
Hallo. Eine Hydraulikpumpe ist ab 5000 Betriebsstunden verschlissen. Das bedeutet das eine neue gekauft werden muss.
Die hydraulikpumpe bekommt Gravitation im Gehäuse. Manchmal kann man eine defekte Pumpe an einem Geräusch des Systems hören. Dann muss sie neu.
These pumps were not worn out though, They were just leaking, but You are right. No amount of seals and orings will fix a pump with excessive clearances.
Hello! Do you remember what the part numbers were for your seal kits??
I got a match at a old parts store for one 10 years ago
Bet you can do the same if you find a older part man
You make it seem easy. I'll have more confidence after watching your video. Thanks. Question: will the hydraulic system bleed itself? I have a mid 80's Long 610 2wd and need to change all the loader lines. Thanks and I'll be watching for more.
Bleeding the system requires cycling the affected components. If you change hydraulic hoses on your loader you will simply operate the loader to purge the air. The loader won't work very good at first and you will have to add fluid to the reservoir during bleeding.
Thanks. I got it done and the system holds a full bucket steady. No dipping or slow run to the ground. Now on to oil draining from the breather upon warm up. You vids are great !
great video, ive got an AC5040 thats leaking like as stuck hog, and the 3pt doesnt work, mine is leaking around the bell housing on the left side (if youre sitting on it) just curious if this was a place yours leaked. (5040 and longs are just about the same tractor if not identical)
The AC5040 is exactly the same tractor aside from paint and decals. I would love to see some pictures of the leak your talking about. You say the three point doesn't work. Is the power steering almost 1 finger to turn easy?
Where did you find the rebuild kit for the hydraulic pump?
Hi, could you tell me the part numbers and/or which way each pump rotated. I understand one pump rotates clockwise and the other counter clockwise. I want to replace both pumps on my Long and having trouble getting information on pump rotation and part numbers.
You will have to remove one of the pumps and look at the shaft end of the pump, there should be an arrow showing direction of rotation.
I have a u350 and was wondering if you have ever talked to someone about engine issues and wondered if you can access all of the Rod caps from the small cover on the bottom of the oil pan, I have a knock I think could be the piston taping the head and oil pressure is about 45 lbs at idle rpm but wondering if piston could be replaced without breaking apart the whole tractor any information you might have would be helpful?
You absolutely can access all the rod bolts through the small access cover on the bottom. I did an inframe overhaul on that same tractor just the same way you are wanting to work on yours. Cylinder #1 is a bit of a trick to torque the rod cap down on reassembly, but it can definitely be done! With the symptoms you describe I would check for piston slap.
Thanks for your reply, I have 1545 showing on the hour meter and the cable was broken when I got it and not running. But I paid a thousand to buy it and another thousand to get the pump and injectors done and got it to run and it smokes blue after it’s warmed up and number 3 is really pounding and sounds like piston hitting the head and I’m 75 years old and I’m not sure if I want to attempt to dive into it at this point but everything is working on the tractor and not sure what I want to do. I feel that the knock is why the quit it and the owner passed is how I got it and if I put the money in it I would never get it back out on a sale. I’m just now bringing back two old Fords a 1946 9N and a 1948 8N and a few more weeks to finish them up and if I decide to fix the Long and I know it’s built like a Tank and strong old Tractor it’s been great chatting with you and you do good work from what I can see, again thanks for the information and maybe we can exchange phone numbers and chat sometime!
I have a 2460 long I can't get the 3pt lever to move. Just wondering if you have any idea what might be wrong
If the quadrant/ draft control itself isn't frozen itself, all you can do is pull the lift too and take a look. It's not complicated to do. Just dive in!
Thank you for the video, Question I have a 460 long it runs fine in Idol but as soon as I put it in gear it starts dumping motor oil out of the crank case breather. Would you happen to know the reason? Could this be an easy fix? Thank you
Not being able to look at it my first thoughts are either high crankcase pressure or the oil separator in the breather has an issue.
Thank you sir
You were right the oil separator breather was the issue, replaced the old one and works perfectly fine. Can I soak the one I took off in gas or diesel to clean it out or should I just chunk it?
@@ciscogarcia498 i’m having the same issue with my long as you described. Idle it’s fine but as soon as I engage any hydraulics, motor oil will gush out of the breather. How did you replace the oil separator? Is it in the breather?
do you remember where you got your seal kits?
The parts came from Ricks ag parts. Good prices and the most spectacular service I have ever found.
@@4cfarms853 do you have part numbers by chance?
@@jessieogle8340 not off the top of my head, but UTB used several different hydraulic pump combinations on these tractors. Unfortunately most of the time you have to figure out what pump you have in order to get the right parts.
How can you break a stuck clutch loose
Sometimes putting the engine under a heavy load while repeatedly stomping and dumping the clutch will free one up, but many times the clutch has to be disassembled to get it free.
I’ve got them lose with tying to very heavy load with chain but I’ve also had to drill holes in bell housing and sprayed PB blaster in it and used 4/5 cans
But it worked 😊
Old Fiat UTB tractor
Like a Oliver 1265