Thanks Brad for doing an episode on satin finishes. Never knew about the white film build up of satin. I plan on putting a satin finish on the necks of my guitars now I know the process to achieve this.
I love your tutorials using spray cans. As someone who doesn't have a workshop (just a garage) and can't afford a decent air brush. Your videos are amazing. I've done 2 guitars and I have 3 basses in the works. Keep creating content that is worth watching.
Hi Brad Thanks for your Vlogs, Good grasp of finishes and techniques once again. I hope you had a nice winter though spring has come again hello sunshine and warmer longer days up in the great white North. All the best amigo, David
This video is exactly on topic for my project. I'm essentially building my high-end parts version to a Fender CS '58 P bass; including a Musikrat 1-pc quarter sawn maple neck. I'm doing a satin translucent white blonde (often referred to as Mary Kaye White) 1-pc swamp ash body with a 64 year-old closet cleanish/journeyman look; not the perfectly glassy new look. + I've got my first order in to Oxford, to be shipped out to me in California this week.
I have to watch spraying over and over. I tried a 3 color burst and hated it and am stripping. Ready to repaint tomorrow, so it's good to watch several spraying videos. Thanks.
So. Brad my man. First of all thank you for all the knowledge. I love to hear got different people do things and your ways seem much more practical than how some of the snoody forum dudes can get. Although there work is amazing I feel we also wanna get shit done. I currently am building a ibanez AZ that I'm refinishing in a pelham blue from Oxford. I got there deluxe finishing kit from solo music in the Toronto area and it is my first time using nitro.. what a learning curve. I have ran into just about every problem I can. Wet sanding I cracked the finish via swelling like you warned and I also had more grain come thru the bocote top than I wanted after initially filling AND I had some light checking on the top from going a little heavy and being impatient with coat times. SO just did a huge gnarly level sand with 400 and got out every imperfection and have only exposed some primer at worst case. I'm going into solo guitars to grab another can of pelham blue and I believe I'm going to grab a can on satin aswell and do a satin finish on it so I can atleast throw my guitar back together at a reasonable time. (I don't care about it getting damaged that's why I wanted nitro.. I just don't want it before the guitar is built. So I plan on redoing my colour and building up (patiently) some clear gloss (have 2 cans of clear) and then do my satin top coat after one last level sand. Hopefully by then the nitro will have shrunken enough to not surprise me anymore with soaking in the bocote top and I can throw my guitar back together a couple days after shooting the satin. (Its been about a week since I started this beast) .. also. Since I didn't purchase directly from Oxford supply I did email them and Thank them for there amazing products and I mentioned I found them from you. Please keep up the great work. If u made it thru this novel leave a heart! Edit: cheers from waterloo btw!!! Are u in Ontario.?
Funny thing is, I emailed Oxford last week because looking for what's recommended for a satin/faded finish for an SG I'm refinishing... They said 1 can sealer, 1 can colour, 2-3 cans of clear! 2-3 cans!
Thank you for all of your videos. I enjoy them, even those which are of questionable benefit to me personally, I am not a fan of satin finishes, but there is always something to learn.
Great job mate as always! I'm contemplating re finishing my sunburst telecaster to seafoam Green just for a change. Its a nitrocellulose finish anyway ( 60s re issue) so it won't be that hard!
I got the message , Brad. Two questions: do we have to deal with orange peel of the final coat? And, since the final (satin) coat is very thin and, won't that cause a problem on the neck, especially when nitro has been used (that wears out quickly).
Timing is everything. Currently working on a body that will have a satin finish. Doing a swamp ash body and going for an open grain look. Good background music. Who was that.
I think you mentioned it, but you do the same for a 2k finish? Sounds like a good way to get the best of both worlds. Gloss protection and perfection with the satin look and a thin finish. Good work, as usual!
I do the same with 2K yes. Usually a couple coats of the 2K satin in a session just because you can’t really do quick touch ups on it part way through the process like you can with nitro.
Yeah, I generally start with gloss to build it up. Then sand smooth with 800 grit and add a couple thin coats of satin to finish off. If you polish your satin it won’t be satin anymore.
Brad, great video! Question though: i am confused about your closing remark around 09:20. Is the final step that you scuff back the satin coat (and if yes at what grid)? I understood earlier in the video that the final step was spraying the satin lacquer (so no more sanding or scuffing afterwards)?
Hi would you use this same procedure and technique for spraying a neck in satin. Im going for more a more aged/dull look rather than hi gloss as the final finsish. Great videos btw and thank you.
@@BradAngove cheers brad thanks for the reply, thats food for thought ive had a look at some videos performing a simular technique and it looks pretty good this might be the road. 👍 all the best
? Brad, I am trying to make some pickup rings from aluminum and would like to put on a satin clear coat to keep the aluminum from oxidizing. Would you recommend your process here and these products for my purpose or do you have another idea? Thank you.
Hi Brad great timing vid I’m doing an ash body open grain in black I’ve dyed the body black and I was going to spray matt 2k aerosol to protect it have you done a finish like it and have you any tips please
I have used the matte 2K before. It’s good stuff. You generally just follow the same techniques we have already talked about and the safety measures I spoke about in my recent videos on using duplicolor and 2k
Just out of curiosity what was it you had to go back and sort out was it just a tad too heavy on certain parts and therefore had to be levelled out? I’m also guessing that’s one of the pitfalls of using a can as opposed to using a compressor and gun with a reliable airflow that can be controlled.
Hi Brad! I have a question, if I have an instrument that was originally satin but I polished it using a mild abrasive cream and it looks glossy at one spot (my guess is I must have sanded down satin lacquer somewhat), is it advisable for me to spray a satin lacquer over that small area?
I would recommend against that. You would need to sand and clean carefully and I think it would be nearly impossible to get a satin finish to blend properly.
Thank you for the video Brad. I'm currently using Oxford nitro and I'm at 6 coats of clear gloss over the British Racing Green metallic. Is it important to wait a week before sanding flat or can I sand and lay the satin on shortly after?
If you’re in Edmonton, carmax on 118th ave and 178th street can probably get spraymax cans in the colour you’re after as long as they make it for cars.
Hey Brad, I just painted an unfinished Basswood strat body from a guitar kit I bought. I used a can of Rust-oleum 2X paint + primer Lemongrass colored satin paint. I have a bunch of cans left of Stew Mac Vinyl Sealer and cans of Nitrocellulose Clear Gloss. Can you help me with which of those I use after having painted the satin color on the body? I just don’t wanna ruin this thing by doing it wrong. Do I sand before spraying anything else? There’s so many confusing videos to keep straight
Those aren’t intended to go together. The sealer is for before colored lacquer. The clear gloss is for after it. The rustoleum is not lacquer though; it’s a different type of paint entirely, so using the clear gloss over it could be risky. Yes, you would sand your color before applying the clear. Usually with 800 grit.
@@BradAngove I found the Satin clear coat of the Rustoleum. Thank you Brad! Hope it turns out nice after 4 coats of clear and then on to the buffing/polishing.
My satin finish is still glossy lmao ...Ummmm have no clue on calming it I thought of scratch guard and buffing it out then polish with a lil Gibson restoration polish ..hmmm would it work ..btw project is a Vandalism Strat i can show pic
@@BradAngove no, i have seen where they use a maple finish to start and a darker stain with a brush doing the swirls or burl marks. I hope that kind of explains it. thanks
@@BradAngove yes on you tube I think you look up how to put a burl wood finish on wood panels or just on how to apply a burl finish on wood. I also seen it done on car dashes.
Generally it would be to find an appropriate spot to tape your transition line and then sand the gloss neck and spray satin on it. On my guitars I just take some 1000 grit sandpaper and run it up and down the neck in my hand so my hand won’t stick instead of actually spraying them with satin, but that’s just for movements speed.
Great content, as usual! I’d like to run something by you. Going to re-finish a guitar that’s completely covered in polyurethane (body, neck and fretboard). Was considering sanding down the whole works and ebonizing the fretboard, dying the neck black and finishing with Tru-Oil and then priming and painting the body with Dupli-Color or Rus-Oleum paint and finishing with 2K Spray Max. Make sense or are there potential conflicts with any of those combinations? Keep the great videos coming. Cheers!🤘
The combinations should be fine. It’s just going to be challenging removing all of the poly enough that you can dye the neck and fretboard. Where you are spraying the opaque color you don’t need to remove all the poly. Just sand smooth with 600 grit and spray over it.
@@BradAngove fantastic(-ish). I have another neck I can swap out without all the poly on it. Thanks for the quick response. Really appreciate the help.
Hey Brad, thanks for all your videos. They've been illustrating me about what I want, a lot. Two questions: How do you see this combo: Oil-based stain, boiled linseed oil and that satin nitro can? And, do you think than spray can, could be used for someone without experience?
The only experience I have finishing guitars, is a jazz box which I finished with something we call "nitro sealer", translated. I think you call it sanding sealer, I'm in south america. Hope you're doing well!
There’s a wipe on poly in satin by minwax, but if I’m doing a satin finish by hand my preference is Odies oil or the rescue oils from maximum guitar works.
Hello, Brad. Quick question, by any chance do you know what satin clear Kiesel uses for their guitars? I know it's a shot in the dark, but figured it wouldn't hurt to ask. I have a Kiesel guitar with a rather unimpressive stain-job that I'm thinking of refinishing myself, and would like to know how to match the original satin clear coat I have on it.
Hi Brad, I wish u can help me. I have a project that is waiting to be finished from too much time... I wanna paint satin black the body of my Squier Standard Telly, the wood should be Agathis, can U give me some tips to do a good job? I'll doing it with cans. Denis from Italy ✌️
Ok. Make sure you seal it first with sanding sealer, primer, or something similar. Then sand it smooth and spray your black base coat. Then you can do like I have described in this video.
Hey brad, so I just finished spraying a 1k clear coat and I’ve let it dry for about a day. I have a couple spots that the clear coat didn’t get on thick enough, so how would I go about patching it up? Do I just spray on top or do I have to sand it first (if so what grit)
Thanks Brad for doing an episode on satin finishes. Never knew about the white film build up of satin. I plan on putting a satin finish on the necks of my guitars now I know the process to achieve this.
Cheers
Now my favorite Satinist on UA-cam. Horns up!🤘
I’m weirdly upset at my inability to come up with a pun worthy of being used in response to this. Well done sir.
I love your tutorials using spray cans. As someone who doesn't have a workshop (just a garage) and can't afford a decent air brush. Your videos are amazing. I've done 2 guitars and I have 3 basses in the works. Keep creating content that is worth watching.
Thank you. I’m glad you’re enjoying the tutorials.
Every time I’m wondering how to go about something. I look and you post the answer to my question!
Excellent!
Thanks to your video I found out my sound system was fine and the last videos were just low volume :) Subscribed and liked!
Hope I didn’t wreck your ears haha
I love videos like this. I had no idea about the color build up coats for satin! Thanks brad
Glad I could help
I like your style! Both presentation and choc full of information!
Thank you
Hi Brad
Thanks for your Vlogs,
Good grasp of finishes and techniques once again. I hope you had a nice winter though spring has come again hello sunshine and warmer longer days up in the great white North.
All the best amigo,
David
Thanks David
@@BradAngove
You are welcome Brad
This video is exactly on topic for my project. I'm essentially building my high-end parts version to a Fender CS '58 P bass; including a Musikrat 1-pc quarter sawn maple neck. I'm doing a satin translucent white blonde (often referred to as Mary Kaye White) 1-pc swamp ash body with a 64 year-old closet cleanish/journeyman look; not the perfectly glassy new look. + I've got my first order in to Oxford, to be shipped out to me in California this week.
I literally have to stop myself from saying " have a good one" at the end of my videos because you say it so much more clearly than I do 😂
I have to watch spraying over and over. I tried a 3 color burst and hated it and am stripping. Ready to repaint tomorrow, so it's good to watch several spraying videos. Thanks.
Glad I have so many of them haha
@@BradAngove Me Too!
So. Brad my man. First of all thank you for all the knowledge. I love to hear got different people do things and your ways seem much more practical than how some of the snoody forum dudes can get. Although there work is amazing I feel we also wanna get shit done. I currently am building a ibanez AZ that I'm refinishing in a pelham blue from Oxford. I got there deluxe finishing kit from solo music in the Toronto area and it is my first time using nitro.. what a learning curve. I have ran into just about every problem I can. Wet sanding I cracked the finish via swelling like you warned and I also had more grain come thru the bocote top than I wanted after initially filling AND I had some light checking on the top from going a little heavy and being impatient with coat times. SO just did a huge gnarly level sand with 400 and got out every imperfection and have only exposed some primer at worst case. I'm going into solo guitars to grab another can of pelham blue and I believe I'm going to grab a can on satin aswell and do a satin finish on it so I can atleast throw my guitar back together at a reasonable time. (I don't care about it getting damaged that's why I wanted nitro.. I just don't want it before the guitar is built. So I plan on redoing my colour and building up (patiently) some clear gloss (have 2 cans of clear) and then do my satin top coat after one last level sand. Hopefully by then the nitro will have shrunken enough to not surprise me anymore with soaking in the bocote top and I can throw my guitar back together a couple days after shooting the satin. (Its been about a week since I started this beast) .. also. Since I didn't purchase directly from Oxford supply I did email them and Thank them for there amazing products and I mentioned I found them from you. Please keep up the great work. If u made it thru this novel leave a heart!
Edit: cheers from waterloo btw!!! Are u in Ontario.?
Thanks Jody. Were you using a sanding sealer? That might be helpful if you didn’t. Im in Alberta.
@@BradAngove yes I used grain filler and sanding sealer. About 2 coats filler (wasn't super porus) and about 4 coats of sanding sealer
Dude, this is timely. I’m about to put Mohawk satin lacquer on a kit guitar. Thank you, sir!
Glad to hear it
Solid choice!
@@BradAngove Hey dude thanks for the vid it was very helpful. what do you recommend using to clean the surface in between coats?
To the extent that I need to do that I typically use wax and grease remover.
@@BradAngove thanks
Funny thing is, I emailed Oxford last week because looking for what's recommended for a satin/faded finish for an SG I'm refinishing... They said 1 can sealer, 1 can colour, 2-3 cans of clear! 2-3 cans!
Are you doing metallic?
We love your work bro
Is dam 😍✨,,, so I love this information tip so love from India 🇮🇳 keep growing 👍
Thanks Barun
🤩 Awesome work 🤎
Thank you for all of your videos. I enjoy them, even those which are of questionable benefit to me personally, I am not a fan of satin finishes, but there is always something to learn.
Thanks Nick
I'm In ❤ with this man
Thanks for the great content man! 👍👍👍
Thanks Pete
Great job mate as always! I'm contemplating re finishing my sunburst telecaster to seafoam Green just for a change. Its a nitrocellulose finish anyway ( 60s re issue) so it won't be that hard!
Those are definitely easier to work with than poly.
I got the message , Brad. Two questions: do we have to deal with orange peel of the final coat? And, since the final (satin) coat is very thin and, won't that cause a problem on the neck, especially when nitro has been used (that wears out quickly).
Deal with the orange peel just before the final coat. Then the thin final coat should lay relatively flat. You can’t really sand and buff satin.
Great stuff as always Brad....🤘
Thanks Nick
Timing is everything. Currently working on a body that will have a satin finish. Doing a swamp ash body and going for an open grain look.
Good background music. Who was that.
I’m not sure the name. I got the song off epidemic sound, but I don’t keep track of them by author/song name.
I think you mentioned it, but you do the same for a 2k finish? Sounds like a good way to get the best of both worlds. Gloss protection and perfection with the satin look and a thin finish. Good work, as usual!
I do the same with 2K yes. Usually a couple coats of the 2K satin in a session just because you can’t really do quick touch ups on it part way through the process like you can with nitro.
What do you use to sand the last coat of satin to make it look super smooth and still satin?
Nothing, the satin has to be good on the last coat.
Oxford recommended 3 cans of clear. My Satin went on like orange peel. Now I'm being told level sand and polish.
Yeah, I generally start with gloss to build it up. Then sand smooth with 800 grit and add a couple thin coats of satin to finish off. If you polish your satin it won’t be satin anymore.
Brad, great video! Question though: i am confused about your closing remark around 09:20. Is the final step that you scuff back the satin coat (and if yes at what grid)? I understood earlier in the video that the final step was spraying the satin lacquer (so no more sanding or scuffing afterwards)?
Your understanding was correct. I had to sand again because of an imperfection that I needed to fix.
Hi would you use this same procedure and technique for spraying a neck in satin. Im going for more a more aged/dull look rather than hi gloss as the final finsish. Great videos btw and thank you.
Yes, that’s an option. I would often put gloss on there and then rub it back with fine paper or scotch brite instead.
@@BradAngove cheers brad thanks for the reply, thats food for thought ive had a look at some videos performing a simular technique and it looks pretty good this might be the road. 👍 all the best
? Brad, I am trying to make some pickup rings from aluminum and would like to put on a satin clear coat to keep the aluminum from oxidizing. Would you recommend your process here and these products for my purpose or do you have another idea? Thank you.
For metal you will just want to clean carefully, use a metal compatible primer, and then spray your satin clear. Adhesion promoter can also work.
How long to wait for assembling after the final satin?
One month usually.
Hi Brad great timing vid I’m doing an ash body open grain in black I’ve dyed the body black and I was going to spray matt 2k aerosol to protect it have you done a finish like it and have you any tips please
I have used the matte 2K before. It’s good stuff. You generally just follow the same techniques we have already talked about and the safety measures I spoke about in my recent videos on using duplicolor and 2k
Just out of curiosity what was it you had to go back and sort out was it just a tad too heavy on certain parts and therefore had to be levelled out? I’m also guessing that’s one of the pitfalls of using a can as opposed to using a compressor and gun with a reliable airflow that can be controlled.
No, there was a hair and a little particle of debris that I needed to remove before adding a final coat.
Looking good!
Cheers
Hi Brad! I have a question, if I have an instrument that was originally satin but I polished it using a mild abrasive cream and it looks glossy at one spot (my guess is I must have sanded down satin lacquer somewhat), is it advisable for me to spray a satin lacquer over that small area?
I would recommend against that. You would need to sand and clean carefully and I think it would be nearly impossible to get a satin finish to blend properly.
Thank you for the video Brad. I'm currently using Oxford nitro and I'm at 6 coats of clear gloss over the British Racing Green metallic. Is it important to wait a week before sanding flat or can I sand and lay the satin on shortly after?
It depends on the temperature and humidity, but I would say you’re safest to wait at least a week to help avoid potential cracking.
@@BradAngove Thanks for your help! Will do.
Looking good now that gyms are back open in Edmonton lol
Haha I though you still needed to hire a trainer to go there.
@@BradAngove I think most regular gyms are back open now. Mine is and I am not using any personal trainers
Excellent. I’ll have to look into that one of these days.
@@BradAngove while I have you hear, do you have any ideas for metallic spray paint? I want to do a paint job similar to jake Bowen’s satin blue ibanez
If you’re in Edmonton, carmax on 118th ave and 178th street can probably get spraymax cans in the colour you’re after as long as they make it for cars.
Hi, great to know, how many coat do you put of gloss before the last coat of satin? thanks
It depends but I usually do 3-5.
@@BradAngove ok thank you
@@BradAngovehow many cans of Oxford is 3-5 coats?
1-2 cans.
Hey Brad, long time listener, first time caller. What product are you using for cleaning there? The degreaser. Got an affiliate link?
It’s just some duplicolor was and grease remover. Nothing fancy. Lighter fluid will work in a pinch.
Are you getting it at Canadian Tire?
I think I got it at Napa. Canadian tire likely has it as well though; they carry duplicolor.
Hey Brad, I just painted an unfinished Basswood strat body from a guitar kit I bought. I used a can of Rust-oleum 2X paint + primer Lemongrass colored satin paint. I have a bunch of cans left of Stew Mac Vinyl Sealer and cans of Nitrocellulose Clear Gloss. Can you help me with which of those I use after having painted the satin color on the body? I just don’t wanna ruin this thing by doing it wrong. Do I sand before spraying anything else? There’s so many confusing videos to keep straight
Those aren’t intended to go together. The sealer is for before colored lacquer. The clear gloss is for after it. The rustoleum is not lacquer though; it’s a different type of paint entirely, so using the clear gloss over it could be risky.
Yes, you would sand your color before applying the clear. Usually with 800 grit.
@@BradAngove thank you for taking the time to answer my questions. Crap now I don’t know what to do.
Find your color in a lacquer or switch to a clear coat meant for the rustoleum.
@@BradAngove I found the Satin clear coat of the Rustoleum. Thank you Brad! Hope it turns out nice after 4 coats of clear and then on to the buffing/polishing.
You don’t buff and polish satin clear. That’s only for gloss.
I have some Gibson Les Paul black satin. It has some minor marks. What would you recommend for me to touch up those marks?
A black touch up pen is probably your best bet. Touching up satin perfectly is almost impossible though.
My satin finish is still glossy lmao ...Ummmm have no clue on calming it I thought of scratch guard and buffing it out then polish with a lil Gibson restoration polish ..hmmm would it work ..btw project is a Vandalism Strat i can show pic
Any time you try to polish satin it will just gloss up. I do have a video on how to turn gloss finishes matte or satin.
thanks for the different finish video's. would you or have you ever put a burl finish on a guitar? Lou
A burl finish? A did a guitar with an ash burl veneer.
@@BradAngove no, i have seen where they use a maple finish to start and a darker stain with a brush doing the swirls or burl marks. I hope that kind of explains it. thanks
I have never seen that. Do you know where I would find an example?
@@BradAngove yes on you tube I think you look up how to put a burl wood finish on wood panels or just on how to apply a burl finish on wood. I also seen it done on car dashes.
Cool. What's the best approach to have a satin neck and gloss body on a set neck guitar?
Generally it would be to find an appropriate spot to tape your transition line and then sand the gloss neck and spray satin on it.
On my guitars I just take some 1000 grit sandpaper and run it up and down the neck in my hand so my hand won’t stick instead of actually spraying them with satin, but that’s just for movements speed.
And just like that, I now know how to do a satin finish!😁
Go hit the “that was easy” button.
Great content, as usual! I’d like to run something by you. Going to re-finish a guitar that’s completely covered in polyurethane (body, neck and fretboard). Was considering sanding down the whole works and ebonizing the fretboard, dying the neck black and finishing with Tru-Oil and then priming and painting the body with Dupli-Color or Rus-Oleum paint and finishing with 2K Spray Max. Make sense or are there potential conflicts with any of those combinations? Keep the great videos coming. Cheers!🤘
The combinations should be fine. It’s just going to be challenging removing all of the poly enough that you can dye the neck and fretboard.
Where you are spraying the opaque color you don’t need to remove all the poly. Just sand smooth with 600 grit and spray over it.
@@BradAngove fantastic(-ish). I have another neck I can swap out without all the poly on it. Thanks for the quick response. Really appreciate the help.
Hey Brad, thanks for all your videos. They've been illustrating me about what I want, a lot.
Two questions: How do you see this combo: Oil-based stain, boiled linseed oil and that satin nitro can? And, do you think than spray can, could be used for someone without experience?
The only experience I have finishing guitars, is a jazz box which I finished with something we call "nitro sealer", translated. I think you call it sanding sealer, I'm in south america. Hope you're doing well!
Hi there. I haven’t seen that exact combo. Usually linseed oil and lacquer wouldn’t be used together since they are both finishes.
Wait, that's that TeLP I was asking about some time ago, isn't it? It looks very promising 😃
That’s the one. So far so good.
You do really nice work Brad 🤙
I enjoy your channel, good stuff.
Thanks Thomas
Hi, I know this video is about spray on satin finishes. But, what rub on satin finish would you recommend? Thanks.
There’s a wipe on poly in satin by minwax, but if I’m doing a satin finish by hand my preference is Odies oil or the rescue oils from maximum guitar works.
@@BradAngove Awesome thanks!
Hello, Brad. Quick question, by any chance do you know what satin clear Kiesel uses for their guitars? I know it's a shot in the dark, but figured it wouldn't hurt to ask. I have a Kiesel guitar with a rather unimpressive stain-job that I'm thinking of refinishing myself, and would like to know how to match the original satin clear coat I have on it.
I don’t know what they use specifically, but the look shouldn’t be different than any other polyester or polyurethane satin clear really.
Hi Brad, I wish u can help me. I have a project that is waiting to be finished from too much time... I wanna paint satin black the body of my Squier Standard Telly, the wood should be Agathis, can U give me some tips to do a good job? I'll doing it with cans.
Denis from Italy ✌️
Hi Denis, is the body bare wood right now or is it painted?
@@BradAngove yes, totally. Bare and sanded with 300 paper
Ok. Make sure you seal it first with sanding sealer, primer, or something similar. Then sand it smooth and spray your black base coat. Then you can do like I have described in this video.
@@BradAngove great! I hope to start as soon as possible, thanks a lot ✌️✌️✌️
Hey brad, so I just finished spraying a 1k clear coat and I’ve let it dry for about a day. I have a couple spots that the clear coat didn’t get on thick enough, so how would I go about patching it up? Do I just spray on top or do I have to sand it first (if so what grit)
Just sand lightly with 800 grit so the next coat or coats will stick properly and then clean it and go ahead and spray.
@@BradAngove how do you go about cleaning the sanded surface before clearcoating?
Wax and grease remover
Don't worry about the polishing. Your skin will do that nicely at all the usual contact points, within a few months.
Too true
Lmao the thumbnail looks like a hair spray ad.
Hahaha
4th.