This guy is such a joy to listen to. He sounds so humble, but you know you are listening to a guru. I like listening to anything he is willing to teach/talk about. Thank you, sir!
Started with his VHS tapes and now have many of the CD's. When I was in the GAL they always promoted sharing information, thru Data Sheets and the Quarterly. Dan is all about Sharing also. A very Talented and Nice Man.
As always a great video. Heating the can doesn't just warm the lacquer itself, but also the propellants, so the can has more pressure. This, (along with warmer, thinner fluid) , helps to create the finer atomisation.
**AS THE PAINT DISTRIBUTOR, LET ME AD ONE MORE TIP** The Biggest Thing Spray Bomb (aerosol can) Users Don't Do Correctly or Enough Is, To Shake The Can Correctly! The Can Is Purposely Made In Such A Way So You Can SEE When The Paint Has Been Shaken Enough & Is Well Mixed.... The Cans Were Designed For You To Shake The Can Up & Down Vigorously & Hard, Thus Leaving Tiny Dents In The SOFT Bottom Of The Can! You Should See Many Dents In The Bottom Of The Can, If Not, You're Not Shaking It Hard Enough To Fully Mix The Paint! ALWAYS Shake The Can Vertically, Not Side To Side In A Twisting Manor....... **LAST** You Should Store Your Cans Upside Down If Going To Be Stored On A Shelf For Long Periods Of Time, This Keeps Humidity That Forms Inside The Can From Rusting Inside The Spray Relief Valve.
BINGO, you are 100% correct, this was something I was taught by a paint rep over 40 years ago, most people have no clue about the paint bottoms.....Same with storing the cans upside down, great comment, thanks!
Might I suggest a video on things like sanding out orange peel, wet sanding, using sanding sealer, applying water slides and clear coat. I refinished a broken neck and repainted a headstock and as a rank novice they were all things I had to deal with, to learn about and do. And they all help get a nice finish. I wouldn’t have known those things had I not read about them in a book.
Thank you so much Dan.....I love tech videos and I learn a lot but most leave me questioning if they are accurate... but your attention to detail and expertise never disappoints and I am able to confidently execute the next step of a project after watching you......
Something I picked up from scale modeling videos. When you decant canned aerosol paint (spraying a small amount into a jar for detail work) DON"T put a lid on your jar until the propellant has had a chance to "gas off". If you seal that small jar too soon, it will explode.
Great advice. I'm glad I only sprayed the first coat before watching this. BTW, StewMac's Tobacco Brown in a rattle can is a perfect match for the neck of my 2016 Gibson J45.
Thanks for the tips. I want to find a deep dark metalic Red for a dark Gray Metalic strat I'm getting on sale. Then after I get the top and sides Red -- I might want to paint a design like a paisley over that. Its A decent Ash Strat w/ a rosewood fretboard , maple neck . I got it really cheap so I want to paint it and do some cool designs.
Great vid, great info and easy to follow. Starting a guitar build project for the first time and this is exactly what I needed! Thanks for this! Cheers, everyone!
tip 3 was awesome. ive always hung the bodies from the washing line in the garden and sprayed head on. i think im going to have to try it at more of an angle for my next one. Cheers Dan!
you can also add air if you still have paint in the can if you have an air comp. just take off the tip and try to seal up where you will be adding the air and shoot.
Thanks Dan. Just yesterday I had a spattering problem. I’m gonna go check the tips, and clean them. I was gonna blame the spattering on too hot it was 95F. That said I’m still gonna change my painting schedule to early morning when it’s high 70s.
In addition to the fantastic information THIS is equally a fantastic presentation. Well prepared, Straight to the point. Well covered information summed up in a 5 minutes video. As for the presenter Mr Erlewine, he’s 100% class.
Great Video - Thanks!! One thing to know though, and to be Very Aware of about "heating" an aerosol can.... part of the reason the paint comes out in a finer mist is Not only due to the paint "thinning" due to warmer temps as you pointed out..... but, also because the elevated temperature also Raises the internal pressure of the propellant, forcing the product out at a faster rate than normal. There is ("usually"), however... a downside to this, and that is... that it is "possible" to run out of propellant, BEFORE you run out of the product... in this case, paint, as has happened to me a couple of times. You can apply this same technique to Any aerosol product if needed.... but just be aware that in some cases (Not All), in heating and raising the internal pressure that.... 1) you "could" run out of aerosol before the product is fully discharged,.... and 2) Be VERY Careful in preheating the aerosol container, because different manufacturers use different propellants for pressurizing, depending on the product and "some" can "react" very violently (re: Explosive) when heated. Some propellants pressurize exponentially in relation to the heat applied and "can" explode at container temps of 100 degrees +/-...... READ the Caution label on ANY aerosol container..... most will tell you Not to allow the container to be exposed to sustained direct sunlight (primarily in the summer) or Any other heat source above 100 - 120 degrees or explosion may (Will) result. I have witnessed an aerosol paint can explode (it was about 1/3rd to 1/2 full) that was forgotten and left in the sun on a hot early August afternoon for only about 20+ minutes..... fortunately, the paint was white.... and so was my shop next to where it was sitting..... the container looked like a frag grenade went off inside of it... am very thankful that I (or anyone else) was not standing close by it, when it went off. Sorry for the "book".... just be careful when heating and (therefore) pressurizing aerosol cans... of Any kind. Thanks for tips.
@@stewmac.... You're very welcome, and thank you, again... for all that you do and provide through your informative videos. Have a Blessed and Happy Thanksgiving. : )
another reason not mentioned for heating the can/lacquer is that when you spray, you are expanding propellant liquid to a gas, which makes cold (how air conditioners work). This can cause condensation, which can cause blushing in marginal humidity conditions. It's not generally an issue on very dry days, but with humidity higher than 65-70%, it can happen. The extra heat can reduce this.
You should also align the spray tip with the round black mark on the top ring of the can. You can see the mark in this video when turning the tip is discussed. This aligns the pickup tube with the paint in the can so you get it all out of the can instead of sucking air.
I wish I watched this tips before had to learn some of them the hard way on my kit build avatar. A proper mix is very important! Now I do a mix of 90% shaking the can up and down vigorously and 10% rolling the ball around the bottom and up around the walls of the can. All for a whole minute, turning the can upside down and viceversa. Then I let the can rest upside down for ten seconds, to allow the resulting bubbles inside to pop. Don‘t stop the spraying movement at the edges of the piece, it will build up too much there. Just spray slightly over it, doing a „breakdance- lock‘n‘popp“-like move when changing direction. Take a close look on the instructions referring the recommended temperature of the environment. If too hot (the same if you spray from too far), the tiny drops will be half dry before hitting the surface, and the paint will also dry too fast later on the surface and not uniform enough.
I started using a heating pad to warm my lacquer cans - just wrap the pad around the can and secure with a bungie cord. Putting the cans in water resulted in the labels melting off, this way keeps everything intact.
I like how Dan is so thorough and doesnt just say....remember to keep the tip clean...but demonstrates the way he does it.....He is amazing with these details......
Wonderful! Unfortunately I had to learn the hard way with tip #2 (the part about spraying it while the body is vertical), and tip #5. I was getting some botchy spots on my guitar and never considered the tip might be clogged! Thanks for the video!
I warmed my can to about 40c in hot water and had problems with it not spraying, I thought it was a duff can, but when it cooled down, it was fine, unfortunately the instructions on the can didn't give ideal temperature ranges. Some products vary from the advice given.
Warm lacquer definitely sprays better. the results look like a mirror. Before heating the can in hot water, make sure you have a Sharpie pen and clear packing tape because the water will melt the glue causing the paper label to fall off. Dry the can, mark what was in it with the Sharpie and then cover with a piece of clear packing tape so the sharpie ink won't rub off.
are these transparent paint? meaning will I see the grain of a flame maple if I want to paint a Les Paul type guitar with a figured maple top in burst?
Can I mix color layers for a unique color? or will it just be the latest color with some see-through of the first layer? Ive read people say with nitro it kind of molds into one layer so idk
Dan, I use the bottom of a Coke can for touch up. Spray a little paint in the depression on the bottom then use a brush or thin it as needed. Easy clean up, just throw the can away.
Thank you Dan....Great advise and information. Received my Colortone Blonde yesterday. Looking forward to finishing my Tele Bass. Thanks for the video. Nice clear and precise tips and well presented.
@StewMac. Wonder how many coats of Grain-Filler I should use. I need to make what I thought was a natural finish 1979 Strat back to the Tobacco Sunburst that it originally had from the Factory.... I want it to look good & as original as I can make it, using Lacquer Paint....
Any advice on a guitar that has a short 20" scale, a straight at the top neck, relief in the middle and then a HUMP at the last 4 inches all the way to the end? Looks like a roller coaster...sort of? Cant replace it. What is the best way to address this problem? Thanks.
Hi Stew, I’m making big bass marimba bars (percussion instrument that will be struck thousands of times with a medium hard mallet and will vibrate like crazy over and over and over). Traditionally they finished with oils and waxs, though I want to experiment with other stuff. For my experiment phase-in order of best to worst-can you please suggest/brainstorm what you think might work out for coating/sealing wooden bars that will be taking a lot of inherent abuse? With all the beating and vibrating, for instance, might shellac or lacquer or polyurethane or wood hardener or an acrylic poor be too brittle, resulting in getting rattled and crushed to death and breaking apart microscopically over time? Also consider which finish would be the most scratch resistant. (Bars will be stored in stacks and slid against each other with the potential of dirt and sand bits in between. Thanks for brainstorming with me 👍🏻 Sam
Hello StewMac and Dan, I have a project Guitar from Goodwill, and have found it to be 50 years old. I bought it as a project guitar. The finish on the back is thin in some places. Can I go over it with this product to fix it? What would you recommend? (The spots are wide, so I'm surmising the product would need to go over the entire back).
i used minwax Lacquer gloss can and the finish is not hard strong enough as my finger pressure can effect it after the paint cured 1 month , so did i used a wrong product ! can i use automotive paint like a base paint and finish it with a clear coat ?
Don't laugh too loud at this question but maybe you can give me a tip or 2. Here-goes:. I want to drip paint a guitar that already has clear coat on it and I can't remove the clear coat as the rest of the guitar has cool wear on it that I don't want to get rid of. Will the paint stick to a finished guitar ? Is there anything I can do to ensure that it sticks on top of let's say an already "finished" guitar ? Any and all tips or (don't do this dummy) would help.
*I filled a jar with aerosol paint, did my little touch up, closed it up and saved the rest for later. When I returned it had swelled up like crazy(plastic jar), it was almost about to burst.*
@@JonNewquist *Yeah I don't know if it was the paint, something that was in there before that I hadn't washed away, or the plastic itself it was reacting with. Like opening a shaken soda can!*
This guy is such a joy to listen to. He sounds so humble, but you know you are listening to a guru. I like listening to anything he is willing to teach/talk about. Thank you, sir!
Started with his VHS tapes and now have many of the CD's. When I was in the GAL they always promoted sharing information, thru Data Sheets and the Quarterly. Dan is all about Sharing also. A very Talented and Nice Man.
As always a great video. Heating the can doesn't just warm the lacquer itself, but also the propellants, so the can has more pressure. This, (along with warmer, thinner fluid) , helps to create the finer atomisation.
**AS THE PAINT DISTRIBUTOR, LET ME AD ONE MORE TIP** The Biggest Thing Spray Bomb (aerosol can) Users Don't Do Correctly or Enough Is, To Shake The Can Correctly! The Can Is Purposely Made In Such A Way So You Can SEE When The Paint Has Been Shaken Enough & Is Well Mixed.... The Cans Were Designed For You To Shake The Can Up & Down Vigorously & Hard, Thus Leaving Tiny Dents In The SOFT Bottom Of The Can! You Should See Many Dents In The Bottom Of The Can, If Not, You're Not Shaking It Hard Enough To Fully Mix The Paint! ALWAYS Shake The Can Vertically, Not Side To Side In A Twisting Manor....... **LAST** You Should Store Your Cans Upside Down If Going To Be Stored On A Shelf For Long Periods Of Time, This Keeps Humidity That Forms Inside The Can From Rusting Inside The Spray Relief Valve.
BINGO, you are 100% correct, this was something I was taught by a paint rep over 40 years ago, most people have no clue about the paint bottoms.....Same with storing the cans upside down, great comment, thanks!
Why do you capitalize every word? Is your comment the title of a book?
@@Retro6502 Nice! I was going to make some similar comment but yours is too funny.
@@Retro6502 I ask everyone this question, and to this day I still don't know the answer.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge !
Might I suggest a video on things like sanding out orange peel, wet sanding, using sanding sealer, applying water slides and clear coat. I refinished a broken neck and repainted a headstock and as a rank novice they were all things I had to deal with, to learn about and do. And they all help get a nice finish. I wouldn’t have known those things had I not read about them in a book.
Love that guy. Reinforces common sense. Just like my grandpa who was a watchmaker/jeweler.
Thank you so much Dan.....I love tech videos and I learn a lot but most leave me questioning if they are accurate... but your attention to detail and expertise never disappoints and I am able to confidently execute the next step of a project after watching you......
Exactly what I wanted to do tomorrow! What a coincidence!
Dude, you are the KING of this stuff! Super helpful tips!
Dan is the man! Love that there's options in addition to reranch now. These nozzles look better.
Something I picked up from scale modeling videos. When you decant canned aerosol paint (spraying a small amount into a jar for detail work) DON"T put a lid on your jar until the propellant has had a chance to "gas off". If you seal that small jar too soon, it will explode.
I thought he passed away when I saw other guys in the videos instead of him. Thank god Dan is still alive and well! 🙏
Great advice. I'm glad I only sprayed the first coat before watching this. BTW, StewMac's Tobacco Brown in a rattle can is a perfect match for the neck of my 2016 Gibson J45.
Thanks for the tips. I want to find a deep dark metalic Red for a dark Gray Metalic strat I'm getting on sale. Then after I get the top and sides Red -- I might want to paint a design like a paisley over that. Its A decent Ash Strat w/ a rosewood fretboard , maple neck . I got it really cheap so I want to paint it and do some cool designs.
Wow..some really cool tips there :) I never knew about the upside down can trick.
Great vid, great info and easy to follow.
Starting a guitar build project for the first time and this is exactly what I needed!
Thanks for this!
Cheers, everyone!
tip 3 was awesome. ive always hung the bodies from the washing line in the garden and sprayed head on. i think im going to have to try it at more of an angle for my next one. Cheers Dan!
Thanks, Dan!! Awesome guide video. Just got my lacquer and clear coat stuff from stewmac
Great tips! Easy to follow video with no fluff to skip through. Thank you!
Thank you so much for these wonderful spraying tips! I never thought of warming up the lacquer.
you can also add air if you still have paint in the can if you have an air comp. just take off the tip and try to seal up where you will be adding the air and shoot.
Thanks Dan. Just yesterday I had a spattering problem. I’m gonna go check the tips, and clean them. I was gonna blame the spattering on too hot it was 95F. That said I’m still gonna change my painting schedule to early morning when it’s high 70s.
In addition to the fantastic information THIS is equally a fantastic presentation.
Well prepared, Straight to the point.
Well covered information summed up in a 5 minutes video.
As for the presenter Mr Erlewine, he’s 100% class.
Great Video - Thanks!! One thing to know though, and to be Very Aware of about "heating" an aerosol can.... part of the reason the paint comes out in a finer mist is Not only due to the paint "thinning" due to warmer temps as you pointed out..... but, also because the elevated temperature also Raises the internal pressure of the propellant, forcing the product out at a faster rate than normal.
There is ("usually"), however... a downside to this, and that is... that it is "possible" to run out of propellant, BEFORE you run out of the product... in this case, paint, as has happened to me a couple of times. You can apply this same technique to Any aerosol product if needed.... but just be aware that in some cases (Not All), in heating and raising the internal pressure that.... 1) you "could" run out of aerosol before the product is fully discharged,.... and 2) Be VERY Careful in preheating the aerosol container, because different manufacturers use different propellants for pressurizing, depending on the product and "some" can "react" very violently (re: Explosive) when heated.
Some propellants pressurize exponentially in relation to the heat applied and "can" explode at container temps of 100 degrees +/-...... READ the Caution label on ANY aerosol container..... most will tell you Not to allow the container to be exposed to sustained direct sunlight (primarily in the summer) or Any other heat source above 100 - 120 degrees or explosion may (Will) result.
I have witnessed an aerosol paint can explode (it was about 1/3rd to 1/2 full) that was forgotten and left in the sun on a hot early August afternoon for only about 20+ minutes..... fortunately, the paint was white.... and so was my shop next to where it was sitting..... the container looked like a frag grenade went off inside of it... am very thankful that I (or anyone else) was not standing close by it, when it went off.
Sorry for the "book".... just be careful when heating and (therefore) pressurizing aerosol cans... of Any kind. Thanks for tips.
Thank you for this helpful input!
@@stewmac.... You're very welcome, and thank you, again... for all that you do and provide through your informative videos. Have a Blessed and Happy Thanksgiving. : )
another reason not mentioned for heating the can/lacquer is that when you spray, you are expanding propellant liquid to a gas, which makes cold (how air conditioners work). This can cause condensation, which can cause blushing in marginal humidity conditions. It's not generally an issue on very dry days, but with humidity higher than 65-70%, it can happen. The extra heat can reduce this.
You should also align the spray tip with the round black mark on the top ring of the can. You can see the mark in this video when turning the tip is discussed. This aligns the pickup tube with the paint in the can so you get it all out of the can instead of sucking air.
The one dislike on this video is from the person who has an oil finished guitar
Honestly a lot of dislikes on UA-cam are from people accidentally hitting the wrong button.
Probably had a dirty tip
Dan is American hero because he showed us how to spray right way .thanks
Great tips for any painting job using sprays!
Great lesson and show, thank you.
I wish I watched this tips before had to learn some of them the hard way on my kit build avatar.
A proper mix is very important! Now I do a mix of 90% shaking the can up and down vigorously and 10% rolling the ball around the bottom and up around the walls of the can. All for a whole minute, turning the can upside down and viceversa. Then I let the can rest upside down for ten seconds, to allow the resulting bubbles inside to pop.
Don‘t stop the spraying movement at the edges of the piece, it will build up too much there. Just spray slightly over it, doing a „breakdance- lock‘n‘popp“-like move when changing direction.
Take a close look on the instructions referring the recommended temperature of the environment. If too hot (the same if you spray from too far), the tiny drops will be half dry before hitting the surface, and the paint will also dry too fast later on the surface and not uniform enough.
You're the Man Dan
Wish I had 1/10 of Dans skill and knowledge. Thanks again
I fully agree Dan i a treasure. These are very useful tips even if your repainting your mailbox.
I started using a heating pad to warm my lacquer cans - just wrap the pad around the can and secure with a bungie cord. Putting the cans in water resulted in the labels melting off, this way keeps everything intact.
Thanks Dan. I have a 1968 telecaster bass body on its way to me. Time to play.
How exciting! That'll be a fun one.
@@stewmac I have ordered your sanding sealer, blonde lacquer, and some satin finish coat. Delivery scheduled for tomorrow. Thanks.
Truely 5 Good solid tips right there!
Why don’t you offer fenders buttercream color in your lineup? Love your spray paints!
Would it be possible to show taking a bare piece of wood and showing the finish process from start to finish?
i love this guy...old school.
Genius .
Simply brilliant.
Love you fella respect ....
Their vintage colors are spot on.
Excellent Excellent Excellent Excellent Excellent video..
The sonic blue is amazing.
Always keep your tip clean
Super helpful video! Thank you so much
That was an excellent tutorial. Thank you for sharing!
Always knew it was a good idea to keep my tip clean
I like how Dan is so thorough and doesnt just say....remember to keep the tip clean...but demonstrates the way he does it.....He is amazing with these details......
@@CrowMagnumMan2024 That one went right over your head...
@@MyTwangyGuitar Maybe it wasn't that funny... 🤨
Wonderful! Unfortunately I had to learn the hard way with tip #2 (the part about spraying it while the body is vertical), and tip #5. I was getting some botchy spots on my guitar and never considered the tip might be clogged! Thanks for the video!
I warmed my can to about 40c in hot water and had problems with it not spraying, I thought it was a duff can, but when it cooled down, it was fine, unfortunately the instructions on the can didn't give ideal temperature ranges. Some products vary from the advice given.
Warm lacquer definitely sprays better. the results look like a mirror. Before heating the can in hot water, make sure you have a Sharpie pen and clear packing tape because the water will melt the glue causing the paper label to fall off. Dry the can, mark what was in it with the Sharpie and then cover with a piece of clear packing tape so the sharpie ink won't rub off.
are these transparent paint? meaning will I see the grain of a flame maple if I want to paint a Les Paul type guitar with a figured maple top in burst?
Do the color tone 3 tone burst colors relic good?
idk why but i fricken love this guy
Can I mix color layers for a unique color? or will it just be the latest color with some see-through of the first layer? Ive read people say with nitro it kind of molds into one layer so idk
Thanks Dan, great tips!
Hi there. How do you attach the holding-stick to the inside of the neck pocket?
very useful , many thanks
Dan, I use the bottom of a Coke can for touch up. Spray a little paint in the depression on the bottom then use a brush or thin it as needed. Easy clean up, just throw the can away.
Great tip, thanks!
Might be a stupid question but i still have to put down a couple coats of primer before using these cans right?
Massive help, thanks a lot. Just started spraying my own guitars.
Thank you for sharing this great information.
What kind of respirator rating should one aim for? P100 or P95 OV?
This guy knows his stuff
Thank you Dan....Great advise and information. Received my Colortone Blonde yesterday. Looking forward to finishing my Tele Bass. Thanks for the video. Nice clear and precise tips and well presented.
@StewMac. Wonder how many coats of Grain-Filler I should use. I need to make what I thought was a natural finish 1979 Strat back to the Tobacco Sunburst that it originally had from the Factory.... I want it to look good & as original as I can make it, using Lacquer Paint....
This dude is great🎉
What a great guy ! Love it
Any advice on a guitar that has a short 20" scale, a straight at the top neck, relief in the middle and then a HUMP at the last 4 inches all the way to the end? Looks like a roller coaster...sort of? Cant replace it. What is the best way to address this problem? Thanks.
Truss rod. Check if its broke, and if it's not, adjust it accordingly
Great video, Dan! We're going to try a project guitar with the ColorTone Finishing Set: These videos will help a TON! Thanks! ROKKON! \m/
This video was very helpful. Thank you!
Thank you Dan. Excellent.
Awesome Tips👍🏼
How about the drying time how long for the paint to cure? Thanks
Thank's Mr Erlewine !
Love yah dan 🖤
Great tips!!!
Hi Stew,
I’m making big bass marimba bars (percussion instrument that will be struck thousands of times with a medium hard mallet and will vibrate like crazy over and over and over). Traditionally they finished with oils and waxs, though I want to experiment with other stuff. For my experiment phase-in order of best to worst-can you please suggest/brainstorm what you think might work out for coating/sealing wooden bars that will be taking a lot of inherent abuse? With all the beating and vibrating, for instance, might shellac or lacquer or polyurethane or wood hardener or an acrylic poor be too brittle, resulting in getting rattled and crushed to death and breaking apart microscopically over time? Also consider which finish would be the most scratch resistant. (Bars will be stored in stacks and slid against each other with the potential of dirt and sand bits in between. Thanks for brainstorming with me 👍🏻
Sam
Great stuff mate thanks for the tips
Hello StewMac and Dan, I have a project Guitar from Goodwill, and have found it to be 50 years old. I bought it as a project guitar. The finish on the back is thin in some places. Can I go over it with this product to fix it? What would you recommend? (The spots are wide, so I'm surmising the product would need to go over the entire back).
I want to use as a stain for a pale guitar neck, will this work for that purpose?
I’m just starting to spray a guitar kit in natural wood with nitrocellulose, so thanks for the tips!
very usefull video thanks
You're so welcome! Glad it was helpful.
What on earth is ORANGE PEEL ? I keep hearing this expression--must be something in the aerosol paint ?---any illustrations ?
How long after I've put the tint on a neck can I mount the neck that I've tinted onto the guitar body? I'm just adding a bit of tint to a neck.
great tips thank you
Your the man Dan!
Thank you
How about using canned clear lacquer and a sponge brush?
Priceless!
i used minwax Lacquer gloss can and the finish is not hard strong enough as my finger pressure can effect it after the paint cured 1 month , so did i used a wrong product !
can i use automotive paint like a base paint and finish it with a clear coat ?
Dose Lacquer raise the wood grain?
How many cans of spray are needed for a guitar neck and body?
Should you warm poly too?
Don't laugh too loud at this question but maybe you can give me a tip or 2. Here-goes:. I want to drip paint a guitar that already has clear coat on it and I can't remove the clear coat as the rest of the guitar has cool wear on it that I don't want to get rid of. Will the paint stick to a finished guitar ? Is there anything I can do to ensure that it sticks on top of let's say an already "finished" guitar ? Any and all tips or (don't do this dummy) would help.
What primer do you spray on raw wood guitar body?
*I filled a jar with aerosol paint, did my little touch up, closed it up and saved the rest for later. When I returned it had swelled up like crazy(plastic jar), it was almost about to burst.*
Yikes! Glass jars only.
@@JonNewquist *Yeah I don't know if it was the paint, something that was in there before that I hadn't washed away, or the plastic itself it was reacting with. Like opening a shaken soda can!*
Merci !!! 👍🏼🙌🏼
cheers fella, good tips
Good Stuff Dan!!!!!!!!