take note that the p1000 grit sandpaper is not the same as US grade sand paper. p1000 is probably equivalent to that of US600 theres a conversion online somewhere so anyone in the US might want to check it out so there is no mix up.
It's finally here! Thank you all for your patience. I've been extremely busy with some other projects, including the construction of my new shop. I hope you all enjoy this one. Best of luck with your own projects!
Does this product protect thin nitro from flaking off? I'm thinking about getting a MJT nitro reliced guitar but I they won't do anything more to seal in the look from production because "its supposed to keep aging as you play" but the nitro is so thin it literally flakes off. I'm looking for something to lock in the finish as best as possible. Thanks!
When it comes to nitro finishes I don't think there's anybody on UA-cam doing a better job of showing how to really do it all by hand he gives great explanations to what he's doing stresses the importance of taking your time in the end result is an incredible looking guitar great job and thank you
I've never done this, but I've talked to a lot of people about it, and most people recommend sanding and polishing in circles. Just so newbies see this and know that there are other ideas out there.
This series was spot on what i was looking for and really needed. I don't have money for fancy machinery or possibility to participate any lessons so... The biggest possible THANKS TO YOU!!
I'm literally going to start finishing my first guitar tomorrow and only just stumbled across these videos. While you've just seriously added to my workload, I'm looking forward to hopefully getting the final finish looking as good as you do here.
These videos have been perfect! They're methodical and detailed without being boring or tedious. I'm working on a refinish right now and pretty much every resource I've needed has been in this series. Thanks!
Hands down best how to video on how to work on your guitars nitro finish!!! Helped walk me through getting out unwanted marks on my guitars and honestly got them to look as they did say I first opened the case!!! KEEP UP THE AMAZING WORK and spreading the knowledge!
Fantastic. A very helpful and instructional set of videos on painting a guitar. No drama or background music. Just step by step how-to for the average DIY guy. Thank for making these! ,
@@LoneStarGuitars I notice you don't scuff sand after the sanding sealer is applied. Is that because you use primer? I am planning on doing a sunburst finish. I should still scuff sand, correct?
Extremely good and thorough video series for those of us who want to refinish at home without professional tools and paint booth. The results are great and the lessons couldn't be more comprehensive.
I loved seeing this process. I've done several nitro bodies, and your process easily showed me where and why I had the problems I did. Your Video is the best of its kind on the web!
This series is extremely well done. I’m about to start finishing an ash Telecaster body. I’m sure it’s going to come out much better than it would have had I not seen these videos.
Thank you for your vids. These helped me painting my guitar. I really love working with Nitro. To me its easier to work with than poly, My finish coats went on pretty smooth. I have a few more coats to do. Im using aged lacquer on the first few as I want the color to look older(but not relic) I went a little heavier in the areas of the arm and hands and it looks pretty legit. Thank you once again for taking time to do these.
This 3-part series was great. My guitars, on purpose, always show the grain and I never use filler. The majority of my builds are "natural' wood and I use a home-brewed varnish finish. When using a Fender classic colors in nitro (I use rattle cans), I still let the natural grain come through and it will not be high gloss. However, I now have a project of a '63 Fender Musicmaster that some idiot tried to refinish on his own. Not sure what the original color was. It looks as if it may have been a Fender Red Mahogany, which Fender sometimes did use on this model and the Duo-Sonics. However, in researching, I found Fender, at the end of a day, would sometimes shoot these models with the classic colors still left in the spray guns. Therefore, I'm going to do a Daphne Blue, high gloss. Thanks for the great tutorials!
Best, most informative, well paced videos about guitar finishing! Makes me a lot more confident, and even if it only turns out half as good I'll be happy! Thanks!
I've been looking for videos like this for years! Guitar builders' community generally snubs amateur guitar builders who don't have spraying equipment, but you demonstrated that a perfect high-gloss finish is achievable without any fancy equipment. Thanks! Do you also happen to use water based finishes?
I'm glad this helped! And yes, you definitely don't need professional equipment to create a great finish (although it obviously does make things a little easier). I personally do nitro, acrylic, oil and polyester finishes. That's pretty much it!
Hopefully you're still checking comments on this one: Finished a tele body using these techniques and they worked very very well. The problem I seem to have run into, I believe, is a matter of temperature control. I did the spraying/curing in a California USA garage. The spraying in spring and let it cure for about six weeks. By then, the temps in the garage would have fluctuated from the low 60s F to the high 80s. Upon first sanding with the 1000 grit, everything dulled as expected, and I worked through the additional polishing steps as outlined. I certainly got a mirror-like finish. I also discovered a significant amount of checking in the nitro. Noticed it first when I wet sanded with the finer grits. Thought it might have been a sudden reaction to the water temperature versus the temperature of the body, but then closer inspection revealed the entire guitar suffered some degree of checking. Now, if I'd wanted to do a relic job, this would be an AMAZING relic finish and a trick I'll remember as it seem quite organic relative to the "blow dryer/sprayed nitrogen-canned air" method. Question: for future builds, should the drying/curing take place in a more temperature controlled environment to prevent the checking? And I also imagine there is no way to correct the checking other than to strip and refinish the body?
I have a couple of basses to refinish which I've been wanting to do however it seemed so daunting until I watched your videos they are awesome. I hope you do more videos!
Great stuff. I'm getting ready to build my first kit and yours are the best finishing how-tos I've seen or read so far. I especially like the tip about letting the nitro cure for a few weeks before the polishing step. I'm doing an alder Strat body and going for the cherry SG look.
Wanted to Thank you for your super Excellent tutorial style and professionalism. I watched and listened the 3 parts carefully. My thing is to paint illustrations on gluedneck guitars which will leave uneven paint all over them. I guess I understood very clearly where I will start the process you have explained so very well. Sending Positive Vibes to you.
Now this is how you do a tutorial right. Pretty much everything you need to know, in the order you need to know it in and with out any annoyingly long winded explanations and a bunch of "ahhs" and "umms" or even worse a text to speech computer voice or no voice at all. Instead of helpful instructions you get some crappy royalty free music and text you have to pause the video to read. You know the ones I'm talking about. So yea. Good job. I'm getting ready to do a nitro finish on a set of MDF speaker cabs that I am building and I'm cruzing around youtube and the interwebs to see how other people do this kind of finish to maybe pick up a trick or two before I begin. I've done plenty of nitro finishes in the past and I know how to do them but it's been about four years since the last one and I'm far from an authority on the matter so it never hurts to see how others do it. MDF has it's own set of challenges to deal with but the basic methodology is the same for both. I might add that if you are worried about water from the wet sanding process swelling anything you can use mineral spirits instead of water. When finishing MDF you want to stay away from water and water based products as much as you can. Another little bit regarding rattle cans. Watch your spray finger that it isn't hanging to far over the nozzle and in the stream coming from the can. I've done this in the past and it's a good way to screw up an otherwise good finish. Secondly, when you get down to where there is just a little bit left in the can switch it out for a fresh can. Don't try and squeeze every last little bit out of the can as it can start sputtering and dripping and resulting in less then desirable results. That's my two cents worth, adjusted for inflation of course..
Extremely beautiful work. Very well done. If you ended up finishing this project out with the rest of the components please let us know if there's a gallery of pictures to check out. I would love to see them!
I agree with the others, your videos are head and shoulders above the others. especially how you show so much of what you do and and show the actual problems that you have and how to deal with them. Will you do a set on using wood dye and how to get the best result from consumer level materials?
@@LoneStarGuitars That's awesome. I really want to see if there is a way to avoid the blotchy looking dye jobs I've seen on other videos. I am confident that if it can be done, you can teach us. Also, what would you think about maybe introducing us to low priced spray equipment and techniques? Not sure where you are on the globe, but Harbor Freight has an $80 set of 2 cup guns. With your level of detail and understanding, it would be cool to see what you have to say. It would be the next step for some of us.
In your previous life, were you a hands model for Ad Agencies? Seriously these part 1, 2 & 3 has given me great encouragement. As a sign-painter by trade originally, and having used spray cans for years, i'm disappointed with the way some UA-cam channels talk about spraying with cans as some "low class" poor-person option. Your unemotional video proves that with the right prep & patience, stunning results happen... with a can-do attitude.
I guess so! And you are absolutely right, spray cans can create perfect finishes just like spray guns can. Of course a spray gun allows for more customization of the spray pattern and such (which can make things a little bit easier) but the end result is the same. Thanks for your comment!
Wow, you did an incredible job! You could make a lot of money refinishing Corvette's! Can you imagine doing all that work on the surface area of a Corvette? You'd go through a lot of paper!! I'm in the middle of a Firebird guitar build. I lucked out and got an absolutely gorgeous body. The neck was okay in terms of wood figuring but after I sanded it I noticed a crack. They replaced it without question and the one they sent was awesome! I've researched and there's a million different names for similar wood grain features..but I think it's most commonly referred to as flamed. There's gorgeous flame lines perpendicular across the neck. Sorry for rambling..I have a question and hopefully you'll have time to find this and answer! When you watch factory tours, most manufacturers do a buffing process at the very end, but no wet sanding. They've got a couple different buffing wheels with different compounds. Question is what are the pros and cons of wet sanding versus buffing? Thank you very much, and thank you for creating editing and posting videos. I know it's time consuming but it's very helpful for us regular folks who aren't experts!
Thank you! this has been eye opening! I appreciate your thoroughness in describing the in and outs, and hows and why's of each step. You have answered all the questions I have been wrestling with about my own project. I am curious about the drying time frame. Most have indicated about 2 weeks. What about environmental conditions for drying/curing?
What...no $800 buffing machine!....Great straight forward information for us lesser mortals! I see a lot of products have come from the automotive paint industry...can I use automotive rubbing compound and polishing compound?
Again great job just a couple pointers. Personally on such a soft paint like lacquer minimal sandpaper 1500 and at this point unlike video I would not touch no edges. Second off he was standing with his fingers big no no! Use a flat rubber squeegee. This ensures proper flatness sanding that's the purpose. After your first sanding of 1500 just to knock down the main roughage then work your way to the 3000 grit. Now you can slightly do your edges but not much at all needed emphasize best to stay away if you're new as the buffing and polishing will take care of the edges again caution. Quick note compounds and polishes are liquid sandpaper. As mentioned from heavy grit to light grit to super light grit with polishes. Polishes are not sealers like some think. I do recommend sealing fresh paint with a glaze. Glaze is safe for fresh paint but do not wax. It still needs cure time. If you have an older guitar that looks great you can polish it in wax is safe and recommended sealer for paint. Not fresh paint. Glaze is for fresh paint. Hope this helps
For those who don't think paint needs to be sealed that may just say I've been doing this 40 years and have seen the results personally. Number one son and environment are brutal it will gradually oxidized over time. This protects it from that and other elements. Also for those who say you can put wax on fresh paint. No you're not going to see no immediate bad effects. After a couple of years you'll wonder why it started crazing and other spider web deformities. This is cuz it was wax early in life while the paint wasn't cured. It takes time and you'll regret it. I've seen paint jobs come back 10 years later because of this. And hate to admit I made the mistake myself on my 67 cougar I owned for 30 years. Hope this helps
These are the best guitar finishing videos on youtube.
Thank you!
Agreed. I've watched a ton recently, and this is hands-down the best yet.
Bravo.
Georg Figél agreed.
Hell yeah
Indeed, very well done!
take note that the p1000 grit sandpaper is not the same as US grade sand paper. p1000 is probably equivalent to that of US600 theres a conversion online somewhere so anyone in the US might want to check it out so there is no mix up.
It's finally here! Thank you all for your patience. I've been extremely busy with some other projects, including the construction of my new shop. I hope you all enjoy this one. Best of luck with your own projects!
Is there any alternatives to the StewMac compounds? I just checked their website and shipping to the UK is more than the three bottles themselves
@@MidtownSkyport I'm in the UK and just used the McGuire's Car Swirl Remover and then the Polish after sanding to 2000 grit. It came out incredible!
Does this product protect thin nitro from flaking off? I'm thinking about getting a MJT nitro reliced guitar but I they won't do anything more to seal in the look from production because "its supposed to keep aging as you play" but the nitro is so thin it literally flakes off. I'm looking for something to lock in the finish as best as possible. Thanks!
Hands down the smartest and easy to understand finishing video. Thank you for editing this so well!
Thank you!
When it comes to nitro finishes I don't think there's anybody on UA-cam doing a better job of showing how to really do it all by hand he gives great explanations to what he's doing stresses the importance of taking your time in the end result is an incredible looking guitar great job and thank you
These are the best videos on finishing in UA-cam. Thank you so much.
Thank you and you are welcome!
The top about sealing the holes with a drop of super glue is BRILLIANT. well done mate. That’s a too tip
I've never done this, but I've talked to a lot of people about it, and most people recommend sanding and polishing in circles. Just so newbies see this and know that there are other ideas out there.
This series was spot on what i was looking for and really needed. I don't have money for fancy machinery or possibility to participate any lessons so... The biggest possible THANKS TO YOU!!
Just wanted to say this series of videos has been VERY informative. Thanks for going through the effort to give such a comprehensive how-to series.
Thank you!
Nice video, it has given me the confidence to do my own lacquer finish on a telecaster body. Next step, start sanding... bedankt en tot ziens
I'm literally going to start finishing my first guitar tomorrow and only just stumbled across these videos. While you've just seriously added to my workload, I'm looking forward to hopefully getting the final finish looking as good as you do here.
These videos have been perfect! They're methodical and detailed without being boring or tedious. I'm working on a refinish right now and pretty much every resource I've needed has been in this series. Thanks!
Thank you so much for the detailed steps, also teach me what to expect from a rattle can as a beginner
Hands down best how to video on how to work on your guitars nitro finish!!! Helped walk me through getting out unwanted marks on my guitars and honestly got them to look as they did say I first opened the case!!! KEEP UP THE AMAZING WORK and spreading the knowledge!
Fantastic. A very helpful and instructional set of videos on painting a guitar. No drama or background music. Just step by step how-to for the average DIY guy. Thank for making these! ,
You are a king. I am significantly less nervous about my first finish after watching your videos.
Great to hear that!
@@LoneStarGuitars I notice you don't scuff sand after the sanding sealer is applied. Is that because you use primer? I am planning on doing a sunburst finish. I should still scuff sand, correct?
Your channel is addictive,..........moving on to the next one !...............really well done !
Extremely good and thorough video series for those of us who want to refinish at home without professional tools and paint booth. The results are great and the lessons couldn't be more comprehensive.
Thank you!
Best series on nitro finishing period. Excellent stuff. Many thanks.
Thank you so much for this 3 part series. By far the best tutorial I’ve seen on guitar finishing.
These walkthroughs are so complete and approachable, please do more!!
I loved seeing this process. I've done several nitro bodies, and your process easily showed me where and why I had the problems I did. Your Video is the best of its kind on the web!
Thank you! Glad this helped!
Great video brother, thank you! I wish all instructional videos were this good
Triple, for the win. Yet another great lesson and show, thank you.
That end result looks fantastic. 👌
This series is extremely well done. I’m about to start finishing an ash Telecaster body. I’m sure it’s going to come out much better than it would have had I not seen these videos.
very helpful tutorial which I used on my first nitro paint job ... thanks
i personally love the look of lacquer sunken into the grain
I don't mind grain but I don't care for orange peel.
Same. Love it even more when you spray canned air and the finish cracks develop under the finish. Looks like broken glass.
@@soyborne.bornmadeandundone1342 I may take mine outside this winter for more natural checking. The kind of cracks that run along the grain. IDK.
Great videos. I've always wanted to see a complete tutorial on Nitro. Thanks for your effort to show all of us how it's done!
You're welcome! Thanks for watching.
Thank you for your vids. These helped me painting my guitar. I really love working with Nitro. To me its easier to work with than poly, My finish coats went on pretty smooth. I have a few more coats to do. Im using aged lacquer on the first few as I want the color to look older(but not relic) I went a little heavier in the areas of the arm and hands and it looks pretty legit. Thank you once again for taking time to do these.
This series is absolutely amazing. thank you!
This 3-part series was great. My guitars, on purpose, always show the grain and I never use filler. The majority of my builds are "natural' wood and I use a home-brewed varnish finish. When using a Fender classic colors in nitro (I use rattle cans), I still let the natural grain come through and it will not be high gloss.
However, I now have a project of a '63 Fender Musicmaster that some idiot tried to refinish on his own. Not sure what the original color was. It looks as if it may have been a Fender Red Mahogany, which Fender sometimes did use on this model and the Duo-Sonics. However, in researching, I found Fender, at the end of a day, would sometimes shoot these models with the classic colors still left in the spray guns. Therefore, I'm going to do a Daphne Blue, high gloss.
Thanks for the great tutorials!
Sounds like a great project! I also love to see that wood grain, but most customers seem to prefer the high gloss finishes.
Great videos. Lot's of tidbits I already knew but what most others leave out for those that don't.👍👍
Great tutorial. Thanks for taking the time to produce it.
You're very welcome. Thank you for watching.
Best, most informative, well paced videos about guitar finishing! Makes me a lot more confident, and even if it only turns out half as good I'll be happy! Thanks!
Great tutorial - i'll be using this to re-finish an old Ibanez JEM 777. Thanks!!
Thank You for helping me out! Appreciate it. Really fantastic Job 👏👏
This is hands down the best nitro at home tutorial out there. I just wonder where you are? It’s been 2 years.
I really appreciate the tutorial with no power tools this is exactly what I was looking for, now I can finish this finish coat, thank you!
That finish looks SICK! Incredible work and fantastic demo.
I've been looking for videos like this for years! Guitar builders' community generally snubs amateur guitar builders who don't have spraying equipment, but you demonstrated that a perfect high-gloss finish is achievable without any fancy equipment. Thanks!
Do you also happen to use water based finishes?
I'm glad this helped! And yes, you definitely don't need professional equipment to create a great finish (although it obviously does make things a little easier). I personally do nitro, acrylic, oil and polyester finishes. That's pretty much it!
That is amazing 🤩 Thankyou
Great finish. I guess there is hope for me!
Of course! Practice makes perfect.
Great tutorial. Very thorough and helpful.
Thank you!
Thank you very much for these videos. I'm starting this process. Certainly a lot of work.
Awesome job mate. I'm going to have a go with a tinted blue lacquer on a spalted maple body then polish polish polish!!
Muchas gracias por los videos saludos desde argentina
Hopefully you're still checking comments on this one: Finished a tele body using these techniques and they worked very very well. The problem I seem to have run into, I believe, is a matter of temperature control. I did the spraying/curing in a California USA garage. The spraying in spring and let it cure for about six weeks. By then, the temps in the garage would have fluctuated from the low 60s F to the high 80s. Upon first sanding with the 1000 grit, everything dulled as expected, and I worked through the additional polishing steps as outlined. I certainly got a mirror-like finish. I also discovered a significant amount of checking in the nitro. Noticed it first when I wet sanded with the finer grits. Thought it might have been a sudden reaction to the water temperature versus the temperature of the body, but then closer inspection revealed the entire guitar suffered some degree of checking. Now, if I'd wanted to do a relic job, this would be an AMAZING relic finish and a trick I'll remember as it seem quite organic relative to the "blow dryer/sprayed nitrogen-canned air" method. Question: for future builds, should the drying/curing take place in a more temperature controlled environment to prevent the checking? And I also imagine there is no way to correct the checking other than to strip and refinish the body?
I have a couple of basses to refinish which I've been wanting to do however it seemed so daunting until I watched your videos they are awesome.
I hope you do more videos!
Excellent tutorial. Great job! And thank you
Great stuff. I'm getting ready to build my first kit and yours are the best finishing how-tos I've seen or read so far. I especially like the tip about letting the nitro cure for a few weeks before the polishing step. I'm doing an alder Strat body and going for the cherry SG look.
Thanks dude, watched all 3, I'm ready to go
Amazing finish.
Great tutorial the best I've seen , got a guitar to do and will follow every step. Thank you for doing this it is so very helpfull.
Wanted to Thank you for your super Excellent tutorial style and professionalism. I watched and listened the 3 parts carefully.
My thing is to paint illustrations on gluedneck guitars which will leave uneven paint all over them. I guess I understood very clearly where I will start the process you have explained so very well. Sending Positive Vibes to you.
Thanks great instructions and much appreciated!
great job . it was a beautiful slab of ash , I wouldn't have the heart to paint it green
Excellent video and process Thanks for sharing
Great series of videos! Thanks for the level of detail that most leave out
Man that thing is glossy! Good stuff!
Very helpful series. Thank you!
Now this is how you do a tutorial right. Pretty much everything you need to know, in the order you need to know it in and with out any annoyingly long winded explanations and a bunch of "ahhs" and "umms" or even worse a text to speech computer voice or no voice at all. Instead of helpful instructions you get some crappy royalty free music and text you have to pause the video to read. You know the ones I'm talking about.
So yea. Good job. I'm getting ready to do a nitro finish on a set of MDF speaker cabs that I am building and I'm cruzing around youtube and the interwebs to see how other people do this kind of finish to maybe pick up a trick or two before I begin. I've done plenty of nitro finishes in the past and I know how to do them but it's been about four years since the last one and I'm far from an authority on the matter so it never hurts to see how others do it. MDF has it's own set of challenges to deal with but the basic methodology is the same for both.
I might add that if you are worried about water from the wet sanding process swelling anything you can use mineral spirits instead of water. When finishing MDF you want to stay away from water and water based products as much as you can. Another little bit regarding rattle cans. Watch your spray finger that it isn't hanging to far over the nozzle and in the stream coming from the can. I've done this in the past and it's a good way to screw up an otherwise good finish. Secondly, when you get down to where there is just a little bit left in the can switch it out for a fresh can. Don't try and squeeze every last little bit out of the can as it can start sputtering and dripping and resulting in less then desirable results. That's my two cents worth, adjusted for inflation of course..
awesome tutorial. very useful!
Wow I am really impressed with the results you got here!! Great job!
Great video. Your finish looks great
Well done sir
Great series. Nice job Lone star.
Excellent video
Thank you this finishing series.
Great video, just what I needed.
Thank you sir, you're my best teacher
Beautiful.
Very interesting and instructive !!! Thank you !!
Wonderful job! It’s gorgeous!
Extremely beautiful work. Very well done. If you ended up finishing this project out with the rest of the components please let us know if there's a gallery of pictures to check out. I would love to see them!
I agree with the others, your videos are head and shoulders above the others. especially how you show so much of what you do and and show the actual problems that you have and how to deal with them.
Will you do a set on using wood dye and how to get the best result from consumer level materials?
Thank you for the kind words. A tutorial on how to finish with consumer level materials sounds like a good idea, I might pick that one up!
@@LoneStarGuitars That's awesome. I really want to see if there is a way to avoid the blotchy looking dye jobs I've seen on other videos. I am confident that if it can be done, you can teach us.
Also, what would you think about maybe introducing us to low priced spray equipment and techniques? Not sure where you are on the globe, but Harbor Freight has an $80 set of 2 cup guns. With your level of detail and understanding, it would be cool to see what you have to say. It would be the next step for some of us.
In your previous life, were you a hands model for Ad Agencies? Seriously these part 1, 2 & 3 has given me great encouragement. As a sign-painter by trade originally, and having used spray cans for years, i'm disappointed with the way some UA-cam channels talk about spraying with cans as some "low class" poor-person option. Your unemotional video proves that with the right prep & patience, stunning results happen... with a can-do attitude.
I guess so! And you are absolutely right, spray cans can create perfect finishes just like spray guns can. Of course a spray gun allows for more customization of the spray pattern and such (which can make things a little bit easier) but the end result is the same. Thanks for your comment!
@@LoneStarGuitars are you going to keep doing great videos like you did over the past? i really hope you do!
Wow, you did an incredible job! You could make a lot of money refinishing Corvette's! Can you imagine doing all that work on the surface area of a Corvette? You'd go through a lot of paper!! I'm in the middle of a Firebird guitar build. I lucked out and got an absolutely gorgeous body. The neck was okay in terms of wood figuring but after I sanded it I noticed a crack. They replaced it without question and the one they sent was awesome! I've researched and there's a million different names for similar wood grain features..but I think it's most commonly referred to as flamed. There's gorgeous flame lines perpendicular across the neck.
Sorry for rambling..I have a question and hopefully you'll have time to find this and answer! When you watch factory tours, most manufacturers do a buffing process at the very end, but no wet sanding. They've got a couple different buffing wheels with different compounds. Question is what are the pros and cons of wet sanding versus buffing? Thank you very much, and thank you for creating editing and posting videos. I know it's time consuming but it's very helpful for us regular folks who aren't experts!
These three videos are amazing!
Thank you! this has been eye opening! I appreciate your thoroughness in describing the in and outs, and hows and why's of each step. You have answered all the questions I have been wrestling with about my own project. I am curious about the drying time frame. Most have indicated about 2 weeks. What about environmental conditions for drying/curing?
I'm just starting to build my own G.. This helps me a lot.. TY sir
These videos are very helpful.
Great video, awesome job, it really works even If don't get those polishing creams, I used those for cars, Thank you for your video.
Thank you so much. Great job...
That was extremely helpful. Thank you very much. I subscribed!
Very helpful, thank you
What...no $800 buffing machine!....Great straight forward information for us lesser mortals! I see a lot of products have come from the automotive paint industry...can I use automotive rubbing compound and polishing compound?
Awesome, Finally I've Got it. Thanks to your tutorial.
This is the perfect video for me rn! Thanks bro. I even used the same color on my tele just now. Lol
Gonna polish it as soon as I’m done
Nice work.
Great tutorial!
Thank you!
I have an 80's peavey P bass knock off body that im going to refinish in shell pink and this tutorial is going to help immensely.
Fantastic!!! Congrats on the content! Quick one, what are the referred mineral
Spirits? Thx
Great job! I find it very useful!
Really great tutorial and a beautiful looking finish...thank you...
Thank you so much 🙏🙏🙏
Well done !
Thank you!
Thank's for this vids.
Again great job just a couple pointers. Personally on such a soft paint like lacquer minimal sandpaper 1500 and at this point unlike video I would not touch no edges. Second off he was standing with his fingers big no no! Use a flat rubber squeegee. This ensures proper flatness sanding that's the purpose. After your first sanding of 1500 just to knock down the main roughage then work your way to the 3000 grit. Now you can slightly do your edges but not much at all needed emphasize best to stay away if you're new as the buffing and polishing will take care of the edges again caution. Quick note compounds and polishes are liquid sandpaper. As mentioned from heavy grit to light grit to super light grit with polishes. Polishes are not sealers like some think. I do recommend sealing fresh paint with a glaze. Glaze is safe for fresh paint but do not wax. It still needs cure time. If you have an older guitar that looks great you can polish it in wax is safe and recommended sealer for paint. Not fresh paint. Glaze is for fresh paint. Hope this helps
For those who don't think paint needs to be sealed that may just say I've been doing this 40 years and have seen the results personally. Number one son and environment are brutal it will gradually oxidized over time. This protects it from that and other elements. Also for those who say you can put wax on fresh paint. No you're not going to see no immediate bad effects. After a couple of years you'll wonder why it started crazing and other spider web deformities. This is cuz it was wax early in life while the paint wasn't cured. It takes time and you'll regret it. I've seen paint jobs come back 10 years later because of this. And hate to admit I made the mistake myself on my 67 cougar I owned for 30 years. Hope this helps
great tutorial!!