The G.O.A.T. Spoilboard | CNC Greatness
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- Опубліковано 15 чер 2024
- I have designed and built a spoilboard system that uses three different types of clamping options to give CNC users near-infinity number of clamping options. In this video I go through the design, construction, and application of this ultimate spoilboard system.
Website: www.eigendesigns.com
Instagram: eigen_desig...
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Time Stamps:
0:00 Introduction
0:41 The Spoilboard Design
1:17 Fabricating the Spoilboard Panels
2:17 Carving all of the Holes with the CNC
3:47 Installing the Panels and the Hardware
4:50 Surfacing the New Spoilboard
5:10 Building the Sacrificial Spoilboard Cover
6:21 Reviewing the Clamping Options
10:00 Outtro
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CNC Design Files: eigendesigns.etsy.com/listing/1665136880
Video Specific Links:
Spoilboard Screws: amzn.to/3OgBHNB
T-Track: amzn.to/3JZmhe1
T-Track Screws: amzn.to/3pQCoDX
T-Track Clamps: amzn.to/3DhtMJA
3/4" Dogs: amzn.to/3rq9bQB
3/4" Dog Extendable Clamp: amzn.to/3DiI9NX
Threaded Inserts: amzn.to/3OqfgG5
Bolts for Threaded Inserts: amzn.to/3pQgEIo
Double Sided Tape: amzn.to/3rsatL4
3" Surfacings Bit (1/2" Shank): amzn.to/44pnDqP
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Equipment & Tools:
10” Combination Saw Blade: amzn.to/3o0c3i0
10” Rip Blade: amzn.to/2Zw55sF
JessEm Router Table Lift: amzn.to/3ALk2at
Bosch 2.25 HP Router: amzn.to/3Rwre0g
Bosch Offset Wrenches: amzn.to/3z28E8M
Fulton 110V on/off switch: amzn.to/3PorrR4
Craftsman Air Compressor Set: amzn.to/3kz3zhv
Countersink Drill Bits: amzn.to/3BuBE8G
13-Piece Spade Drill Bit Set: amzn.to/2UlBT5g
Titebond III Wood Glue: amzn.to/3BiUyzc
Titebond Original: amzn.to/3iqjBYp
Titebond Dark Wood Glue: amzn.to/3FToYd9
DeWalt Clamps: amzn.to/3BiC5Ti
DeWalt 20v Cordless Drill Set: amzn.to/36Oe9ck
Bessey 18” Parallel Clamps: amzn.to/3hOmdjC
Bora 40” Parallel Clamps: amzn.to/3itiGq6
Bessey Strap Clamps: amzn.to/3hkCJag
Microjig Push Block: amzn.to/3uPK2fT
Festool Equipment:
Festool Kapex Miter Saw: amzn.to/3GkzBZi
Festool OF 1400 Router: amzn.to/3Vp4aBh
Festool Rotex 150 Sander: amzn.to/3DZHdwD
Festool ETS EC 125 Sander: amzn.to/3payIcl
Festool Sandpaper: amzn.to/3nUzev7
Festool Dust Extractor: amzn.to/2Zvi9yB
Festool Domino DF 500: amzn.to/3Gu9DA4
Festool Domino Assorted Tennon Set: amzn.to/3FjPHhP
Festool TS 75 Tracksaw: amzn.to/3JVn4Ma
WoodPecker Equipment:
Woodpeckers Router Table Fence: amzn.to/3Y2PRUy
12” T-Square: amzn.to/3KcEZxY
32” T-Square: amzn.to/3T3aOgw
12” Stainless Steel Square: amzn.to/3SXqGB8
6” Stainless Steel Square: amzn.to/3K6OTB8
Stainless Steel Square Set: amzn.to/3QYR9wp
6” Stainless Steel Delve Square: amzn.to/3QGlznl
Stainless Steel Delve Square Set: amzn.to/3K6F9H2
CNC Accessories:
Drag Chain: amzn.to/3lPxymf
Makita Router: amzn.to/36OKxvs
1” Surfacing Bit: amzn.to/3n9koRC
¼” Juice Groove Bit: amzn.to/3FSZR9R
Whiteside RU2100 ¼” End Mill Bit: amzn.to/44Efnnc
Whiteside RD 1600 1/8” End Mill Bit: amzn.to/3pjgQzd
Whiteside 1500 90˚Engraving Bit: amzn.to/41VUWjO
Whiteside 1550 60˚ Engraving Bit: amzn.to/3Q8NpJD
Whiteside 1372B Bowl Bit: amzn.to/3WHjCdz - Навчання та стиль
After a few dozen requests from my viewers, I have decided to make these spoilboard plans available for sale in the link below. These plans include the Spoilboard design itself, the 24" x 24" sacrificial board, and the assortment of spoilboard accessories designed to be used with this system.
eigendesigns.etsy.com/listing/1665136880
Would love to see a video about the organizers. Especially with some focus on fusion 360 and the design process.
Love the ideas, thank you. I am just starting my journey into CNC currently doing exhaustively research looking at many many videos, online web searches and forums to try and figure out: which make/model of CNC, software, accessories and most importantly what I am going to build for the base in my shop. I really like your idea as it incorporates many of the hold downs I am familiar with and use daily in my shop. I am very glad I stumbled upon your site and will be checking in.
That is absolutely fantastic! It's one of those things one does in the shop that takes a long time and you can be really proud of......but also make you feel like a serious pro when you think about all the minutes added up over the years going forward that you saved by not staring at something, wondering how to hold something down, and then Jerry rigging something that may or may not work the first time anyway. Well done. I will definitely modeling mine after it when my machine finally gets here.
I appreciate the kind words. That's a good way of looking at it. I am already finding that I am able to setup my carves quicker because of the clamping options available and that is time savings that will surely add up with time.
Excellent job!
I'm still working out the design of my own spoilboard system, but for sure it will use threaded inserts or tee nuts. I'm not a big fan of t track, so I'm forgoing that. Most of the time I'll be using the blue tape+CA glue method, so I really like the idea of the 24"x24" sacrificial panels. And the L bracket is a must. Great design here.
Thank you. I also find that I don’t use t track very often, but I didn’t want to lose the ability to have it if I needed it. The threaded inserts have been a game changer for me. They are tedious to install, but offer a lot of clamping options.
Really great video. Thanks for all of the useful information.
Thanks for the support! 😄
Great video and great design. I followed your design but for install I hade my cnc drill pilot holes for the tracks. Once I installed the tracks I cut the mdf to size. Perfect fit.
Brilliant idea! Great add Mauricio. 😃
i like the board, and good idea with the metal t tracks to make it stronger
Would also love to see how you made that CNC bench ! Hopefully you're working on it now ! So organised with the drawers etc.
In larger commercial machines they use nylon bolts/screws to attach spoil board or sacrificial board. Just a suggestion.
Wow thanks for sharing your videos. Wow love how everything right there at your table. I'm new at cnc family and love your ideas on everything. Just asking do u share some of your codes??? Just asking I would luv to be able to have some thing like that. Thanks again for your video.
Hmm same design as Reddogwoodcraft on etsy 3 maybe 4 years ago. But i like your idea about lining up the dog holes when placing on the table. I used the edge of my router travel. to place my reddog job.
Another great video Mark. Yes doing the boards individually is not ideal for accuracy 😔 next time I will follow your way 😊
haha, oh no! Yeah I was concerned that I would mess it up unless I carved everything at once.
Looks great. Almost verbatim what I did I made 9 squares so they are smaller
great job!! Definitely going to copy cat. Best set up I've seen. I just made a new spoil board....too bad I'm going to trash it to make your set up, lol! thanks a million!
Thank you! I find myself using the dog holes and threaded inserts alllll the time. It has definitely been worth the investment
Well done!
Thank you!
One suggestion that you might want to consider... Carbide 3D sells a type of clamp called "Tiger Claws" and although they are expensive they are the best clamps to pair with a t-track system I've ever used.
I will check them out - thanks Clinton!
Love the Soulja boy Easter egg😂! Great design as always.
Yeeesssssss! I am so glad someone caught that 😂😂😂😂
Excellent video! This is the best spoilboard video design we have seen. We are new to CNC and I have one question. I see that your grid is based on 3" and 6" spacing using 8 boards, but you add the t track which adds width, right? Am I missing another cut that you do to keep the 3 & 6" spacing? Won't the sacrificial board be out of alignment since is doesn't have t-track? Thanks in advice for your help.
That's a good question. They hole spacing is still 6" on center, however, the actual panels are slightly less than 6" to account for the T-track. The middle panels are actually 5-13/16" wide to allow for the T-track and this is assuming you cut a rabet on the bottom side of the panels to "overhang" the t-track like you saw me do in this video. It's worth noting that the two edge panels are slightly wider (5-29/32") since I do not run t-track on the outside edges (my personal perference).
I am impressed by your design, accuracy in the design, and your communication skills. I've been retire sine 2007 but as an electrical Engineer, I depended on entry personnel like probably you to pu my designs into the system. I am using your design to the spoilboard to prepare for multiple customers wanting me to produces their items. Thanks.
Thanks John! Interestingly enough I am an engineer by background too (Mech Engineer). I have found this system to be very helpful and has allowed me to get away from the blue tape + CA glue approach
@@EigenDesigns Good morning. I purchased your GOAT Spoilboard design and in the process of engineering some modifications I need for my CNC machine. I have a CAMASTER Stinger II, Model SR34 that has a 37" x 49" top. A few questions:
1. Your design is for 6" CC between the T-tracks. Your video starts with cutting the 6" strips for the board. Then doing rabbets for the T-tracks. But because of the top edges of the opening to access the T-track the width of strips would need to be reduced from 6". Do I assume you did that off Camera to maintain the 6" CC for the tracks?
2. Your older spoilboard had a T-track along the left edge. Your new design did not. Did you decide to us the inserts for a fence if on is needed? No problem, I would just need to adjust my zero-zero.
Thanks.
@@johntanguy8317 Hey John, yes, you have to account for the width of the T-track in each of the panels. If I remember correctly, each of the middle panels were 5-13/16" wide and each of the two far panels were 5-29/32" wide. I didn't put one on the outside because I found in my prior design that the "footprint" of the clamps that would be used in the outside t-tracks would often obstruct the pathway of the axis rails. I have since found other ways to secure work pieces without using those edge t-tracks.
I hope this helps. Also, I don't always respond to UA-cam comments so please reach out to me through Etsy if you're needing fast support.
PTL! I cut my plant to 5-5/8" and the most left on at 5-3/4". Did the rotting to cover the T-tracks and secured the planks. Then did the down bolt toolpaths. Then screwed them down and did the inserts and dog toolpaths. Right now, I have 3 planks installed. Waiting on more inserts.
Hi, great design and great video. Do you have a 3d or 2d model of the spoil board design you'd be willing to share (or sell)? Like a Vcarve pro file? Thanks and all the best!
Were you able to see my questions earlier today?
No problem, I have time.
Thanks.
Brilliant design. Thanks for sharing. I have a question about the sequence of applying tape to fasten the spoil board. What is carved into the spoil board before you pull up the tape off the slats? Thanks.
Hey Bobby, I carved the dog holes about 1/4" into the actual table top so that my dog holes would sit flush on the spoilboard. The dogs are about 1" long so they stick up past the holes in the 3/4" MDF.
Great job !!!!
Thank you! 😃
Great looking wasteboard. I really like the design. Plus it was made with a great looking spindle!!😉 #pwncnc
I do love my spindle :)
Well done! thanks for sharing. Do you have an amazon link to those expandable clamps "New"? been looking for them since your last video and can't find them in the UK.
Here you go: amzn.to/3DiI9NX
There's a few other links in the description as well if you're interested.
Haven’t busted out my clamps since I started doing blue tape and 2p10.
Rarely even need tabs and don’t have to bother with safe Z heights
I love your design on the whole thing I’m in the process of purchasing a CNC but I’m stuck between one finity elite or shapecko 5 pro both 4x4
They are both great machines. I personally went with the OneFinity because they use a ballscrew for all movement and don't rely on any belts that need to be tightened over time. I also felt like the larger diameter tube construction of the OneFinity would offer a more rigid frame, which becomes more important when you scale up to larger CNCs. However, I don't often hear people complaining about the Shapeoko so I think either option is good.
@@EigenDesigns the shapecko is also ball screw with a VCG Spindle I have a new laptop 💻 but I also like the onefinity
@@truckerdan1250 I have been very happy with my OneFinity. They have proven to have good customer service when resolving issues and they continue to innovate on their products. I am bias towards the 1F machine, but I am sure both are great.
Love this! I'm about to make one inspired by this your design! Question, what feed rate, plunge rate, and depth per pass did you use for the dog holes? You went through both MDF and Plywood in one cut. How did you account for the material change? I'm planning to use a 1/4" 2 Flute Upcut End mill for this part but not sure how to select rates due to the 2 materials. Using a Makita router on my setup. Really nice work, and I love your vids!
Hey Raul, I used a 70 in/min feed rate and stepped down in 0.2" increments. I didn't make any changes to the cutting rates to account for the two different materials. Good luck!
@@EigenDesigns thank you!
Using your router how did you achieve the depth need to cut into the table ?
This is genius! Really!! But I don't understand how you can register the L bracket each time on the same place. My testings at just screwing things in place they still have wiggling room in the threads of the screws... so how did you solve that?
Now that you have your new Elite Onefinity which dust control system did you use on your new cdc I assume you used some model of PWN system?
Hey Richard, I have been using the v10 version of the PWN CNC dust boot, but about 2 weeks ago I switched to the v9 and I am liking that much better.
Great video!! Wrong link for 3/4" dogs tho
Great catch - I just updated the link! amzn.to/3rq9bQB
Are your dogs 19mm or 20mm? The Amazon link has both. The 0.77 inches seems like it would be too loose for the 19 and too tight for the 20.
I got those black clamps you got. I found they push the work pcs up a decent amount. I haven’t found a way for that to stop. Have you had that issue?
I have found that applying less-than-maximum pressure helps. I have also used some toe clamps to hold down my pieces as well and that has worked.
Great video! Love your stuff. You might want to correct the spelling in your title, in case that affects searchability.
Legend! Thanks for catching that. I also appreciate the support 🙂
Do you have a file for the onefinity woodworker
A few comments if you don't mind. If you drink the green koolaide ... the holes become 20 mm (wink) You may be talking me into threaded inserts, though those are a lot of work.
But here is something I am going to try... your 24x24 addon's I think a machinist would call a pallet. I will make mine out of 3/4 or 1/5 mdf and then laminate 1/8" hardboard to it. MDF hates liquids but the hardboard will resist it . What this means is I can mount a SMW fixture plate...then cut aluminum with a mist lube.
Last question ... I am considering "side boards" to provide some chip protection for the screw drives., thoughts?
The threaded inserts are an intital time investment up front, but if you use the "pallets" to protect them, they'll last forever.
I think sideboards to protect your ball screws and your rails from metal shavings is a good idea. Just be sure you leave enough room for the rails to travel by and make sure that any fixtures on your machine are able to clear it (e.g. hoses, dust boots, etc.).
My OneFinity QC table defines the MDF piece sizes. Each slat is 8.75" wide, which isn't divisible by 3 or 6, so at some point you're going to conflict with some hardware. Despite the greater distance between dog holes, using an X-distance of 8.75 for dog holes and 4.375 for threaded inserts might work as well. Keeping the Y-distances at 6" and 3" respectively is compatible with QC board hardware. A disadvantage of using different distances between holes is that the secondary spoilboard wouldn't be able to rotate 90 degrees. Does your equal-distance system have any other advantages?
So for users of QC tables, would you favor uniform distances in the X- and Y-directions, or using the 6" Y and 8.75" X?
Hey David, you're correct that this design didn't take the QC table restrictions into account. I think you identified the main advantage of an equal distance hole system. If you elect to change this then I would encourage you to add more holes, not less. Having fewer holes might limit your clamping/hold down options for your pieces.
Any plan Patterns On All The Accessories ?
with the sacrifical board that goes on top of your permanent spoil/wasteboard, you are losing the ability to use the T tracks? what if the piece you need to cut through is larger than the sacrifical board you made?
do you leave the double sided tape installed?
Whats the name of the drill boring bit you use at 3:50 to drill holes for the threaded insert flanges?
These are some brad point countersink bits you can find here: amzn.to/3VioGqc
This is my first spoil board video so I haven’t done any market research confirming if this is in fact the G.O.A.T. But if anyone asks I got your back. I’ll be like, “yeah it’s the G.O.A.T for sure, without question, hands down.”
Thanks Logan. You're one of my "ride-or-die" subscribers and I appreciate that. I hope you have a great week!
@@EigenDesigns thanks! It’ll be a great week for sure. Enjoying some vacation time in Florida this week👍. Then it’s back to editing my next video when I get home. Been working on a huge edit…taking forever.
What about putting the threaded inserts in the table itself so that you don't have to swap them each time your replace the spool boards?
I did consider it, but was concerned that a few hundred holes in the table might jeopardzie the strength/rigidity of the table top surface. That's why I elected to use the sacrificial panels on top of the spoil boards so those never have to be resurfaced.
@@EigenDesigns I gotcha. I think I'm going to pull some inspiration from your design and modify it a bit. Great work man 🤙
Wouldn't your L bracket with the touch probe be redundant if you use offsets in your motion control software?
If I kept the L bracket in the same place all the time that would be true, but I find myself moving it around depending on what I am carving.
Do you offer the digital file for sale of the spoil board?
Hi there, unfortuatnely I hadn't planned on selling these files. I tried to include all the information needed to re-create this in the video, including spacing, diameters, and cut depths because I would like people to be able to make this for their own CNCs. I hope you found this video helpful.
1- I would have cut the board 48x48, 2-make the (0,0) reference , 3-CNC creates the holes, 3- CNC cuts the 6" strips without rabbit - done on the router later.
Which software are you using?
Does it matter if the dog holes are 3" or 4 " apart depending on my cnc ?
The spacing doesn't matter that much... Just a repeatable pattern that works with your spoilboard area
Would Vo like to purchase the file if offered. Thanks, great design.
Thanks for the kind words. I hadn't planned on selling these files. I tried to include all the information needed to re-create this in the video, including spacing, diameters, and cut depths because I would like people to be able to make this for their own CNCs. I hope you found this video helpful.
Very much so-thanks.
smart
Is the six inch width to the center of the T-track, or to the top of the mdf?
Great question John, it’s to the center of the t-track. The actual width ends up being 5-13/15” with the t track I used
@@EigenDesigns Thank you for the response. I really like your design. I’ve been bouncing ideas around as far as the wasteboard is concerned.
What are your thoughts on putting the threaded inserts in the table itself, and having thru holes in the waste board?
@@johnalex3023 I guess that could work, but you’d want to make sure your plywood tabletop is well supported because you’d be putting a lot of holes in it, possibly jeopardizing it’s structural integrity.
Where the plant for the spoilboard
Wouldn't it be better to put the threaded inserts in the base plate and just have holes in the spoil board?
You would need longer screws, but insert the inserts only once.
By the "base plate" I assume you mean the actual table for the CNC? If so, then I guess you could do that. However, if you use the sacrificial 24"x24" board on top of the spoil board like I show in the video, you should never have to replace or re-surface the main spoil board. So, I think my design works the way you're suggesting where you install the inserts once and never have to touch them.
I hope this helps.
I hate you 🙂 Your shop and CNC are so well thought out that I feel like a caveman! JK, great job and I will certainly "steal" some ideas!
George I can promise that my shop began in Neanderthal times too.... Somewhere along the way I made a decision that I wanted to invest the time and energy to making things clean, organized, and well designed rather than rush to put things together. If some of that inspires you then that makes me genuinely happy. Have a great weekend.
Went to your shop looking for the files for this spoil board. Not there. Disappointing.
So just make one.
Incredibly basic and easy set of tool paths.
Don't put holes in your spoilboard. They are simply not necessary. And when you do want one it will never be in quite the right place. When I need a hole in my spoliboard I drill one in the precise place I want for optimum fixing. My current spoilboard is now six months old and it has four holes in it. Hold work items is only 5% about holding them down. Put 95% of the effort into preventing them moving sideways. For this wedges and cams are the best answer. Preventing sideways movement by pushing down on the top is very much missing the point.
The purpose of a spoilboard is to be sacrificial. It should be cheap and easy to make and replace.
I mean in this case it's more of a workholding board than a spoil board, and you can always add an extra thin layer of sacrificial material between your "workholding" spoilboard and your stock material. I think this is awesome because you can really attach almost all project on it without needing to screw it in
A spoil board on top of a spoil board to protect the bottom spoil board.....