This is such a clever idea, Marius! I have been searching for a way to use dog holes on a woodworking bench without a tail vise, and I came here after "Zack of All Trades" referenced your idea for the cam system. Thank you for sharing this with us! Also, thank you for explaining WHY your first design did not work, and what little needed to be done to fix it. It's a good reminder to fully explore an idea before scrapping it (which I do all too often).
Marius I am not at all taking anything away from all the work and dedication you have put into yourself over the years, but I would really like to meet and congratulate your parents some day.
Marius, your use of the calipers , I have never seen nor, never myself, thought of. This would be a great way to make a table saw cross cut sled. As I watched and learned of a very efficient way to hold work pieces squared, and secured to the cnc spoil board, I am amazed at the simplicity when your plan came together to the final outcome. Well done Pilgrim.
Marius, thanks for sharing your videos - I recently retired and finance tight - your videos give me some ideas and I have already made a number of the tools you have shown - Thanks - you are a very gifted young man - thanks
Thanks for sharing your design AND your thinking along the way! Watching you think through the issues that arise and your thorough method of working is as valuable as the final template.
You sir are a genius! This is the best explanation I’ve seen of why the position of the pin is critical. Very generous of you to supply downloadable STL files. I’m just getting into 3D printing so I was able to import your STL into Fusion and 3D print a template, which I’ve used to transfer the design to some ply. Rather than copper pipe, I’ve 3D printed some pipes which just have a tiny tolerance, so they can turn in the dog holes. I used CA glue to bond these to the ply cam levers, and it’s working beautifully 😊. I thought about 3D printing the whole cam lever and pin, but it would have taken hours on my basic printer! Many thanks again and greetings from the uk.
Thanks so much Marius, well thought of! I've just today be able to recreate (after some scaling to the templates to match a hole of 22mm on my setup) & they work WONDERFULL. Thanks for improving my workshop 🙂 Greetings from Belgium.
The outtakes are really a great thing because they show that making such videos is by far not as easy as it looks, even when considering said outtakes, but they still give you a reminder which 99% of UA-camrs prefers to hide. As for the board improvements of the X-Carve, I wonder if they'll offer boards now with these holes pre-drilled, mhm, gotta look that up.
Hallo Marius ! Gratuliere zu deinem UA-cam Channel! Erfrischend zu sehen, das sich jemand in deinem alter sich so sehr für ein Hobby (obwohl es ist eigentlich viel mehr, als nur ein Hobby) interessieren kann. Respekt für dein Fleiss und Ausdauer. Deine Eltern können stolz auf dich sein! Keep up the good work! Grüsse aus Ungarn! 👍
Great video!! I have really learned a lot from you. I am 76 years old and have doing woodwork most of my life and I am still inspired still inspired by you and your ideas.
This is awesome. I have been searching for weeks trying to find a good clamp solution. This one is by far the most innovative and problematic. Thank you for sharing!
It’s called involute. It’s a special shape where the contact point is perpendicular to the pivot point. It’s found in nature and gears. Great catch. I almost made that mistake and love the content.
I just love your videos. As a retired person, it is so inspiring to see a young person doing something that doesn't involve having their noses stuck in something electronic. Your camera excluded. Keep up the good work? or just
I've been working at a small shop with a big CNC machine for ten years now, and I've made cams like your first version for some special stuff I've had to do. I resorted to screwing the handle down when it was tight and shimming with pieces of edge-banding when the fit wasn't perfect. I only rarely need things like this since we mostly work with much larger pieces (we make kitchen interiors) where the vacuum suction cups the machine comes with work excellently, but I'll keep this video in mind for when I do personal work :) It's a Holz-Her 7120 if you're curious, there are clips of similar machines on youtube. It might be old, but at least it's not a Masterwood 319 like we had before :D
Bro thank you so much for this explanation, saw your ultimate video before this one and had the exact same issue. Thanks a million, you're an amazing human being!
I had a brain-fart and thought I had arrived at a clamp for holding things to my CNC router (which at this time I have not purchased yet ). I am studying VCarve. No need to purchase a router if I can't program it ( even though I programmed a 3.5 axis milling machine and a CNC lathe when I was a machinist till I retired using MasterCam ). I was thinking of cutting a rabbit along the edge of the material I wanted to use and having a male / female part on the clamp to lock the material down to the table, no lifting that way. I love the Physics of the whole thing. COOL !
A simpler way to explain why the first cam lever didn't work is just that the change in radius was too large, or too aggressive. Too much movement away from center compared to the movement of the lever. The change in radius needed to be more gradual, which reduces the amount of clamping movement and also makes for the main limitation of such clamps if you aren't using consistently sized material, you will need a lot of different spacers. Scrap can always be cut to fit as needed, but I'm also going to make some to keep that will have different sizes on each side (for instance 3/4" one side and flip 90 degrees for 1") in pairs or sets of 3 for larger material and mark them for easy match-up. It was nice to see this in practice as I'm getting ready to re-do the bed of my own cnc with dog holes and was planning to do mostly the same thing with cam levers and wedges, along with home made t-track clamps and a couple of other options for maximum flexibility for random size and thickness of material..
You're rigth, but that's not the whole story. Having a small change in radius is key for it to work. And a linear change in radius along the range is best
@@MariusHornberger Not disagreeing, but just to add information for others that may design their own, the workable amount of change in radius is related to the diameter of the head. If you have a 2" head maybe 1/4" change around the circumference is ideal, if you had a 3" or 4" diameter head you can have a greater change in radius for more clamping flexibility and power with the same rate of change for proper function. Someone who mostly clamps larger objects (like slab flattening as I do occasionally) will want larger and likely taller cams, while smaller cnc's with smaller material will do fine with small cams. It's good to continue thinking through this, I just added making multiple size cams to my list for the new setup.. :)
Hallo Marius. Tolles Video! Danke fürs Teilen, deine Ideen, deine Erklärungen, deine kostenlosen PDFs und besonders für den Unterhaltungswert deiner Kommentare und Outtakes! Grüße von der Dt. Weinstraße, Robert
This is wunderbar! I never knew cams could be used that way to hold things in place, only knew about their use in things like motors/translating movement. Definitely going to try putting to use.
Hi Marius - I love your videos, you simple but brilliant ideas, and your endless enthusiasm. It's amazing to see myself - an old goat - learn from a young but brilliant guy. I guess Jim is right - I would also like to congratulate your parents :-) Keep up the good work
Thanks for that Marius, I have been working on this all afternoon, I have re tensioned the gt3 belts and checked the steps per mm x and y. I had the x and y different values.. I have made them both the same and a 300mm circle came out perfectly. I will try your square suggestion tomorrow.. Made the clamps by the way, they are great! Thanks for your help.. Regards Peter
It would be interresting to give you and Mathias Wandel the same woodworking task to solve. Just to see which one comes up with the smoothest solution. I really like the genious simplicity of your solutions. Keep it up 👍
I REALLY like the idea of the story stick and I'm glad you drilled the holes that way instead of by CNC. Not all of us have a CNC (yet). I would think that, potentially, this would be just as accurate, if not more so, than a CNC--especially if the machine "drifts" a bit and others have reported.
Danke, Marius für Deine Schablonen und für Deine Erklärung der genauen Funktion der Excenterspanner! Ich ge nun runter in die Werkstatt und schmeisse meine erfolglosen Versuche weg und teste mal Deine Version! Nochmal Danke!
Mario I really like your content and your ideas and creativity are fantastic. I want to continue seeing your evolution and I want you to continue sharing your experiences with us. 11:53 Take :good care of your eyes as they are invaluable. Cheers
Very interesting process! sometimes is good to have some mirrored cam levers so you can work clockwise and counterclockwise, depending on how the force is applied to the piece. If you dont glue the copper then you can just flip them upside down :) just an idea! good job
I just found this video some minutes ago. Thanks for explaining everything. I do not have a CNC but I'll try to cut out the templates as accurate as possible. I just started to make a "dog hole table" today so I was looking for a good clamping system. It seems I have found it. Thanks.
I feel really guilty commenting on such an old video. Of course, I love it, and am amazed by your genius. My question was with regard to the mathematical constraints that you used to design the clamp. I got that you said that as you rotate the clamp the radius to the point of contact grows, and I think you implied "linearly". (Maybe you only implied the rate of the distance increase as it rotated increased monotonically). I was just interested in some more math behind your derivation. (I'm not a mechanical engineer, but I followed what you said pretty much.) Thanks for posting so much. I really enjoy your videos.
A linear growth and a constant growth rate (maybe you mean constant instead of monotonically) describe the same thing. You got it right. The shape for that is just a spiral, but I didn't use that for drawing back then
@@MariusHornberger thank you so much! So it's simply r = k * theta. Thanks again. BTW, would love to see an update video on what you're up to in life. I'm pretty sure you were in highschool when you started making videos. Now you're graduated college.
Nice stuff. I'm building similar Parf guide systems for my benches and tools with the same types of fence but tend to prefer using horizontal toggle clamps (i.e. Bessey STC-IHH25) instead of cam levers.
Marius, was sind die Abstaende der 18mm Loecher Mitte zu Mitte? Geniale Idee vor allem das Zusatzvideo mit den Rundklammern und quadratischen Einsaetze...du bist ein Genius!!!
Watching this with headphones on I started to look for the ticking clock in my room. Soon realized it is in the video :D Excellent explanation of your cam-levers!
Hi, I just discovered your channel, interesting videos. In this video you shows how you can clamp objects with the holes on the board. I have a workmate that works with these holes system and it was in a couple years worn out. A better system are steel buses pressed and screwed on that plate.
Getting a couple of years out of a spoil board is great, so that is not really a down side. The T-nuts installed from the BOTTOM work great, but you have to screw and un-screw all the time. Also cost more and is much more labor intensive to set it all up. Just my two cents. Peace
A point about "working it out" - you don't need to work that out if you just aproach it mathematically - those shapes are called "involutes" or "logarithmic curves" (Deutsch: Evolvente bzw. Fadenlinie) - it is basically the shape that the endpoint of a string makes, if you wind it around a stick So if anybody wants to design their own clamps, no need for working it out - just crate one of your own or take some out there - the golden spiral or the fibonacci spiral are common examples you find tons of SVG files out there in the wild
I tried to make some cam clamps for my saw mill with poor results. Now I know why! Thanks for the explanation. Back to the drawing board... err program .
Thanks Marius, for all of your great videos! I am setting up a new machine and was wondering if you are still happy with anchoring your cam clamps in dog holes? I was also planning to include t-tracks, but for carves with no upcuts, I was planning on using your cam clamp and adjustable spacer approach. After all this time, do you still recommend dog holes and copper pipe? Thank you!! Oh, and if you do still recommend dog holes, would you recommend using a downcut or compression bit in a spiral pattern to cut them?
I don't use the dog holes or cam clamps anymore. For my type of work I setup a different clamping systen now. I made a video about it as well ua-cam.com/video/kKO5Yq_bVHc/v-deo.html
@@MariusHornberger: Thanks for your reply. I’d seen that one before, but am thinking that your cam clamps would suit me best for what I’m doing. When you were using them, were you satisfied with their performance? Thanks!
Good video Marius, well explained, researched and presented. Enjoyed very much... Which probably explains why I'm watching all your videos and you're not watching my videos LOL. Take care because we care Duncan & Rebecca
Great work again!. I am at the tipping point of purchasing an X-Carve. Have you done a review or other videos on using and owning an X-Carve that you can refer us to? Thank you for your passion and knowledge you share.
you should make the steps bigger. less chance of slipping. I've used the metal version on cnc mills. the low profile edge clamps are killer tho. ive used a version called MightyBites. works the same except this isn't brass
Great job with project and video. Does the size of the hole on the off set cams matter in the holding power. The pivot point is constant whether the pivot hole is 1/4" or 3/4 inch? I am playing with the size of the can that will work best. Thanks again for your video.
I'd just use a pair of wedges and the copper pipes :) Slide the wedges against each other and they exert a force in whatever direction you want :) Also simpler shape => easier to make :D
Love the humor in your video's! Being a beginner CNCer I will appreciate the clamps. Thanks
This is such a clever idea, Marius! I have been searching for a way to use dog holes on a woodworking bench without a tail vise, and I came here after "Zack of All Trades" referenced your idea for the cam system. Thank you for sharing this with us! Also, thank you for explaining WHY your first design did not work, and what little needed to be done to fix it. It's a good reminder to fully explore an idea before scrapping it (which I do all too often).
Marius I am not at all taking anything away from all the work and dedication you have put into yourself over the years, but I would really like to meet and congratulate your parents some day.
Marius, your use of the calipers , I have never seen nor, never myself, thought of. This would be a great way to make a table saw cross cut sled. As I watched and learned of a very efficient way to hold work pieces squared, and secured to the cnc spoil board, I am amazed at the simplicity when your plan came together to the final outcome. Well done Pilgrim.
Marius, thanks for sharing your videos - I recently retired and finance tight - your videos give me some ideas and I have already made a number of the tools you have shown - Thanks - you are a very gifted young man - thanks
Thanks for sharing your design AND your thinking along the way! Watching you think through the issues that arise and your thorough method of working is as valuable as the final template.
I very much appreciate the fact that you always explain the WHY. I feel like I learn far more than the original topic....
You sir are a genius! This is the best explanation I’ve seen of why the position of the pin is critical. Very generous of you to supply downloadable STL files. I’m just getting into 3D printing so I was able to import your STL into Fusion and 3D print a template, which I’ve used to transfer the design to some ply. Rather than copper pipe, I’ve 3D printed some pipes which just have a tiny tolerance, so they can turn in the dog holes. I used CA glue to bond these to the ply cam levers, and it’s working beautifully 😊. I thought about 3D printing the whole cam lever and pin, but it would have taken hours on my basic printer! Many thanks again and greetings from the uk.
Thanks
Marius - I really appreciate that you did not use the CNC to cut the holes, better skills demonstrated the way you did it. Nice video, thanks!
since you care about your English, it's ''so that they always have...' Such skill and honesty, can't wait to see what you're making in ten years.
Thank you for this. I've been struggling getting clamps to work for a specific project, this was extremely helpful and exactly what I needed.
Thanks so much Marius, well thought of! I've just today be able to recreate (after some scaling to the templates to match a hole of 22mm on my setup) & they work WONDERFULL. Thanks for improving my workshop 🙂 Greetings from Belgium.
The outtakes are really a great thing because they show that making such videos is by far not as easy as it looks, even when considering said outtakes, but they still give you a reminder which 99% of UA-camrs prefers to hide.
As for the board improvements of the X-Carve, I wonder if they'll offer boards now with these holes pre-drilled, mhm, gotta look that up.
Hallo Marius !
Gratuliere zu deinem UA-cam Channel! Erfrischend zu sehen, das sich jemand in deinem alter sich so sehr für ein Hobby (obwohl es ist eigentlich viel mehr, als nur ein Hobby) interessieren kann. Respekt für dein Fleiss und Ausdauer. Deine Eltern können stolz auf dich sein! Keep up the good work! Grüsse aus Ungarn! 👍
I have made and used your clamping system and it has worked great.I look forward to watching more of your video tutorials.Thanks for your hard work
I JUST bought a AVID 4896PRO and this will be my goto clamping system. Thanks for the education and corny humor. Well Done!
Great video!! I have really learned a lot from you. I am 76 years old and have doing woodwork most of my life and I am still inspired still inspired by you and your ideas.
I personally use this idea at my workshop, on a 1,5 x 2,5 mts CNC router. Works flawless. Congratulations for your videos.
Thanks for explaining your design and for sharing the templates! Had a lot of Fun crafting a clamp today!
This is awesome. I have been searching for weeks trying to find a good clamp solution. This one is by far the most innovative and problematic. Thank you for sharing!
It’s called involute. It’s a special shape where the contact point is perpendicular to the pivot point. It’s found in nature and gears. Great catch. I almost made that mistake and love the content.
Nice idea, and great video.
I just love your videos. As a retired person, it is so inspiring to see a young person doing something that doesn't involve having their noses stuck in something electronic. Your camera excluded. Keep up the good work? or just
Haha, I think you might have made Frank's day by calling him a young person.
I've been working at a small shop with a big CNC machine for ten years now, and I've made cams like your first version for some special stuff I've had to do. I resorted to screwing the handle down when it was tight and shimming with pieces of edge-banding when the fit wasn't perfect.
I only rarely need things like this since we mostly work with much larger pieces (we make kitchen interiors) where the vacuum suction cups the machine comes with work excellently, but I'll keep this video in mind for when I do personal work :)
It's a Holz-Her 7120 if you're curious, there are clips of similar machines on youtube. It might be old, but at least it's not a Masterwood 319 like we had before :D
Bro thank you so much for this explanation, saw your ultimate video before this one and had the exact same issue. Thanks a million, you're an amazing human being!
thank you so much man, pretty cool that the .svg is still there
I had a brain-fart and thought I had arrived at a clamp for holding things to my CNC router (which at this time I have not purchased yet ). I am studying VCarve. No need to purchase a router if I can't program it ( even though I programmed a 3.5 axis milling machine and a CNC lathe when I was a machinist till I retired using MasterCam ). I was thinking of cutting a rabbit along the edge of the material I wanted to use and having a male / female part on the clamp to lock the material down to the table, no lifting that way. I love the Physics of the whole thing. COOL !
Good explanation on those rotating cam-locks. i tried making those a few years back and failed.
Now I know why.
Nice job!
Watched the vid.
Made the cams.
Worked perfectly.
Thanks a million!
A simpler way to explain why the first cam lever didn't work is just that the change in radius was too large, or too aggressive. Too much movement away from center compared to the movement of the lever. The change in radius needed to be more gradual, which reduces the amount of clamping movement and also makes for the main limitation of such clamps if you aren't using consistently sized material, you will need a lot of different spacers. Scrap can always be cut to fit as needed, but I'm also going to make some to keep that will have different sizes on each side (for instance 3/4" one side and flip 90 degrees for 1") in pairs or sets of 3 for larger material and mark them for easy match-up. It was nice to see this in practice as I'm getting ready to re-do the bed of my own cnc with dog holes and was planning to do mostly the same thing with cam levers and wedges, along with home made t-track clamps and a couple of other options for maximum flexibility for random size and thickness of material..
You're rigth, but that's not the whole story. Having a small change in radius is key for it to work. And a linear change in radius along the range is best
@@MariusHornberger Not disagreeing, but just to add information for others that may design their own, the workable amount of change in radius is related to the diameter of the head. If you have a 2" head maybe 1/4" change around the circumference is ideal, if you had a 3" or 4" diameter head you can have a greater change in radius for more clamping flexibility and power with the same rate of change for proper function. Someone who mostly clamps larger objects (like slab flattening as I do occasionally) will want larger and likely taller cams, while smaller cnc's with smaller material will do fine with small cams. It's good to continue thinking through this, I just added making multiple size cams to my list for the new setup.. :)
Seven years ago but still super relevant. Thanks!
Hallo Marius. Tolles Video! Danke fürs Teilen, deine Ideen, deine Erklärungen, deine kostenlosen PDFs und besonders für den Unterhaltungswert deiner Kommentare und Outtakes! Grüße von der Dt. Weinstraße, Robert
This is wunderbar! I never knew cams could be used that way to hold things in place, only knew about their use in things like motors/translating movement. Definitely going to try putting to use.
Hi Marius - I love your videos, you simple but brilliant ideas, and your endless enthusiasm.
It's amazing to see myself - an old goat - learn from a young but brilliant guy. I guess Jim is right - I would also like to congratulate your parents :-) Keep up the good work
I’ve never had a piece come loose with making tape a super glue but I’m definitely going to try your method for certain pieces
Thanks for that Marius, I have been working on this all afternoon, I have re tensioned the gt3 belts and checked the steps per mm x and y. I had the x and y different values.. I have made them both the same and a 300mm circle came out perfectly. I will try your square suggestion tomorrow.. Made the clamps by the way, they are great! Thanks for your help.. Regards Peter
It would be interresting to give you and Mathias Wandel the same woodworking task to solve. Just to see which one comes up with the smoothest solution. I really like the genious simplicity of your solutions. Keep it up 👍
I REALLY like the idea of the story stick and I'm glad you drilled the holes that way instead of by CNC. Not all of us have a CNC (yet). I would think that, potentially, this would be just as accurate, if not more so, than a CNC--especially if the machine "drifts" a bit and others have reported.
Wanted to say thanks for the templates! I struggled with the same problem you ran into (in a much more rudimentary shop). Way to go Bud, thank you!
Danke, Marius für Deine Schablonen und für Deine Erklärung der genauen Funktion der Excenterspanner! Ich ge nun runter in die Werkstatt und schmeisse meine erfolglosen Versuche weg und teste mal Deine Version! Nochmal Danke!
Many thanks for sharing your project and kept the video posted. It helps me with my current clamp project for my CNC machine. Thanks!
Very clever. Love the Fullerton College t-shirt. I took woodworking classes there years ago and live nearby.
Great video and HUGE thanks for linking the template in the description!
Great explanation . . . I learned and was entertained, nice to see your twin helping !!!
Workpieces are clamped to milling machine tables using the same technique/clamps. the stairs are made of steel thought as are the clamps.
Mario I really like your content and your ideas and creativity are fantastic. I want to continue seeing your evolution and I want you to continue sharing your experiences with us. 11:53 Take :good care of your eyes as they are invaluable. Cheers
Absolut Klasse wieviel Arbeit Du in deine Videos steckst. Man merkt wirklich wie deine neuen Videos immer besser werden. Mach weiter so :D
You are a very clever young man Marius!
Great job. Good that you mentioned it could be used on just about any work table.
Always wandered why my cam levers wouldn't clamp. Thanks for the explanations.
Thanks for the design. I made them and they work great. Only issue I have found is they tend to lift the material of the bed.
I love your editing (linke magically asking the wood to go trough the bandsaw) Great vidfeo.
Nice project. Love the editing.
Marius, I look forward to each video from you. You are very talented. Thank you very much.
Nice work.....love the humor element. Hi from Australia(not Austria) haha!
Thanks for making the file a download. Appreciated
Very interesting process! sometimes is good to have some mirrored cam levers so you can work clockwise and counterclockwise, depending on how the force is applied to the piece. If you dont glue the copper then you can just flip them upside down :) just an idea! good job
That's true. I didn't show that in the video, but I always made a pair of "normal" and a pair of mirrored ones for each thickness.
Very nice work. I look forward to making some of these hornberger clamps!
I just found this video some minutes ago. Thanks for explaining everything. I do not have a CNC but I'll try to cut out the templates as accurate as possible.
I just started to make a "dog hole table" today so I was looking for a good clamping system. It seems I have found it. Thanks.
Excellent idea and VERY informative (and entertaining) video! You just gained a subscriber.
I feel really guilty commenting on such an old video. Of course, I love it, and am amazed by your genius. My question was with regard to the mathematical constraints that you used to design the clamp. I got that you said that as you rotate the clamp the radius to the point of contact grows, and I think you implied "linearly". (Maybe you only implied the rate of the distance increase as it rotated increased monotonically). I was just interested in some more math behind your derivation. (I'm not a mechanical engineer, but I followed what you said pretty much.)
Thanks for posting so much. I really enjoy your videos.
A linear growth and a constant growth rate (maybe you mean constant instead of monotonically) describe the same thing. You got it right. The shape for that is just a spiral, but I didn't use that for drawing back then
@@MariusHornberger thank you so much! So it's simply r = k * theta. Thanks again. BTW, would love to see an update video on what you're up to in life. I'm pretty sure you were in highschool when you started making videos. Now you're graduated college.
I like that you are still using that Half shaved Brush :)
Dude this is awesome!!! Needed these on the CNC today!! Brian
Thank you , excellent idea's on both clamping devices.
Nice stuff. I'm building similar Parf guide systems for my benches and tools with the same types of fence but tend to prefer using horizontal toggle clamps (i.e. Bessey STC-IHH25) instead of cam levers.
I did laugh when you realised you could have used the cnc router to drill the holes. Great video mate, keep up the good work.
Thanks Marius, i really enjoy watching your videos !
Very impressed, you’re a remarkable young man, me thinks you’ll do very well in your studies.
Marius, was sind die Abstaende der 18mm Loecher Mitte zu Mitte? Geniale Idee vor allem das Zusatzvideo mit den Rundklammern und quadratischen Einsaetze...du bist ein Genius!!!
So impressed, your a young modern Albert Einstein genius
Watching this with headphones on I started to look for the ticking clock in my room. Soon realized it is in the video :D
Excellent explanation of your cam-levers!
Hi, I just discovered your channel, interesting videos.
In this video you shows how you can clamp objects with the holes on the board.
I have a workmate that works with these holes system and it was in a couple years worn out.
A better system are steel buses pressed and screwed on that plate.
Getting a couple of years out of a spoil board is great, so that is not really a down side. The T-nuts installed from the BOTTOM work great, but you have to screw and un-screw all the time. Also cost more and is much more labor intensive to set it all up. Just my two cents. Peace
This is a fantastic tutorial! Thank you!
Just what I was looking for.
Thanks, man!
A point about "working it out" - you don't need to work that out if you just aproach it mathematically - those shapes are called "involutes" or "logarithmic curves" (Deutsch: Evolvente bzw. Fadenlinie) - it is basically the shape that the endpoint of a string makes, if you wind it around a stick
So if anybody wants to design their own clamps, no need for working it out - just crate one of your own or take some out there - the golden spiral or the fibonacci spiral are common examples you find tons of SVG files out there in the wild
Nice video and thanks for the explanation. For someone that’s new to all this it’s really helpful. 👍
Very well made and quality videos. I enjoy them all. Thank you Marius!
Another fun, informative and useful video. Thanks again.
Old video but this guys awesome. I love it. lol.
Brilliant idea - well explained. Nice job !!!
Always great. Always educational. Thanks for sharing.
Wow! This is spectacular quality video. Very well done.
well done. great idea and well executed.
nice job.. i love the bloopers after each vid ^^
I tried to make some cam clamps for my saw mill with poor results. Now I know why! Thanks for the explanation. Back to the drawing board... err program .
Dude, that's awesome. Very useful
Thanks Marius, for all of your great videos! I am setting up a new machine and was wondering if you are still happy with anchoring your cam clamps in dog holes? I was also planning to include t-tracks, but for carves with no upcuts, I was planning on using your cam clamp and adjustable spacer approach. After all this time, do you still recommend dog holes and copper pipe? Thank you!!
Oh, and if you do still recommend dog holes, would you recommend using a downcut or compression bit in a spiral pattern to cut them?
I don't use the dog holes or cam clamps anymore. For my type of work I setup a different clamping systen now. I made a video about it as well
ua-cam.com/video/kKO5Yq_bVHc/v-deo.html
@@MariusHornberger: Thanks for your reply. I’d seen that one before, but am thinking that your cam clamps would suit me best for what I’m doing. When you were using them, were you satisfied with their performance? Thanks!
Please investigate a large board sanding attachment for the CNC to go with your new cam clamping system.
I thing you will be in the Guinness World Records for "Best Woodworker".
Great video. And fun editing! Great to see a new video from you!
Good video Marius, well explained, researched and presented. Enjoyed very much... Which probably explains why I'm watching all your videos and you're not watching my videos LOL. Take care because we care Duncan & Rebecca
Fantastic video; love your setup. :)
Great work again!. I am at the tipping point of purchasing an X-Carve.
Have you done a review or other videos on using and owning an X-Carve that you can refer us to?
Thank you for your passion and knowledge you share.
Check the little info button in the top right corner of the video. My CNC playlist should be linked there.
Yes, I should have known you would have covered that aspect. My bad. I was concentrating on you work and didn't look for the links. All good - thanks.
I sure hope you’re going to work in the engineering/design field! Great design analysis and work!
you should make the steps bigger. less chance of slipping. I've used the metal version on cnc mills.
the low profile edge clamps are killer tho. ive used a version called MightyBites. works the same except this isn't brass
Thanks for the files!
Excellent engineering
Greatly enjoy your videos. Great information and useful ideas. Thanks again
Great job with project and video. Does the size of the hole on the off set cams matter in the holding power. The pivot point is constant whether the pivot hole is 1/4" or 3/4 inch? I am playing with the size of the can that will work best. Thanks again for your video.
I'd just use a pair of wedges and the copper pipes :)
Slide the wedges against each other and they exert a force in whatever direction you want :)
Also simpler shape => easier to make :D