Gas Dryer Does Not Heat: Diagnosis and Fix
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- Опубліковано 17 січ 2023
- In this video I show the steps I took to fix my gas clothes dryer when it stopped heating. It turned out to be the thermal fuse, which is a common problem. It may have overheated due to a pretty thick layer of dust. I removed the dust before shooting the video.
This isn't the best way, the way you'd do it, the safest way, or anything. It's simply the way I did it. Don't do it if you don't feel comfortable around 120VAC.
So my wife said the dryer started normally, but there was no heat. I wanted to avoid pulling the dryer away from the wall because it's a pain to get the vent tube re-aligned, but after concluding that there was no voltage at the igniter, gas valve, and flame sensor, I realized the problem had to be in one of the three temperature regulation devices. I looked-up what those looked like, and found them all in the back of the machine. I tested the component that was most likely causing the problem, and the test failed. I ordered the part, replaced it, and the dryer began working. - Навчання та стиль
Thanks for showing how you fixed this. I will use this video as inspiration when I attempt to fix my own non-functioning gas dryer.
Yeah, hopefully you'll get your machine operational again.
Subscribe earned - thank you for showing the testing leads, etc. My thermal fuse tested fine with continuity on the Ohmeter. The hot lead showed 120 volts but the other terminal was dead in the water.
I'm not sure I'm good for a repeat performance, LOL! I run into a problem at my house, look for a video, and if "a good one" isn't forthcoming, I make one. And yes, try to include all my steps, including mistakes.
My dryer feels warm on the side. Is that something that I should be worry? Thanks for answering in advance
Hmmm. I would expect some level of warmth on the exterior of the cabinet.
I going to touch on an issue that will make sense when we are done ,, If you discover a blown "Thermal fuse" one must address the core reason why it blew ,, That thermal fuse is next to the operating thermostat on the outlet of the dryer. that operating thermostat "should have cut off the heat" well before the thermal fuse ever reached the temperature that would cause it to blow , The Thermal fuse is there as a fail safe in case that thermostat fails to open and cut off the heat as it should do so , that why it was put there in the first place.. so if you find a blown thermal fuse you must replace the operating thermostat linked with it as well as it must also be bad for the fuse to blow in the first place. in fact many dryer manufactures mandate one does this and they only sell both the thermal fuse and thermostat in one kit They both must be replaced at the same time. Why does the operating Thermostat fail ? poor airflow due to blocked dryer ducts or the vent being plugged with lint in almost every case . so a thorough check to make sure none of the dryers ducts or blower fan are not blocked with lint as well as a check and cleaning of the vent need to be done . otherwise the blocked airflow forces the operating thermostat to cycle open and closed hundreds of times causing another failure.
Thanks Brian. Your comment is raised to the top.
why didnt you just run a continuity test instead of testing for voltage
I can kind of read a circuit diagram, but only "kind of". I have found that when you run continuity tests on points in a circuit that are on ether side of a component, sometimes there are other paths that make the test result harder to interpret. If I were an electrical engineer with a solid knowledge of the circuits, or if I removed the component and tested it outside of the circuit, continuity would be fine. But for me, even though it involves working on something with 110V flowing and so less "safe", I'm more confident in making a decision with the result of active operational voltages.
Great find
Glad you got some mileage out of it :)