Thank you, David, You're such an amazing teacher. I have no photography experience, but I've had my Canon ESO Rebel T2i camera since 2010 but really never used it, and it's been stored away for years. I recently got a Sony ZV1F camera for vlogging and photography and after purchasing the new camera I realized I still had this Canon T2i. I know it's an older camera, but it still works just fine and watching your videos has been tremendously helpful with me in trying to learn this camera. For a person with no photography knowledge your videos are so easy to understand. Thank you so much.
Yeah, I tend not to actually mount the flashes for these videos, but it's pretty straightforward. The basic process is just loosen the lock, slide it in, and tighten the lock. There are two types of locks, a screw-type and a lever-type. When you're adjusting the lock, look at the flash from the back and see if the gap between the lock and the foot of the flash increases. If so, then that's the time to install it. Simply tighten it once seated.
@@DavidHancockthat description of how curtain works and why flash doesnt work. Sounds like the camera ITSELF cant go under 1/200th… let alone a flash used. Im sorry the description totally has me confused
@@DavidHancockif the first curtain opens, then 1/500th of a second goes by, then curtain closes… how is the sensor NOT exposed for 1/500th of a sec.? Why does this make no sense too me?.. and how does it even relate to flash as it seems the shutter is doing a weird thing, where not even IT is effectively able to take a pic right? im confused
that description of the bulb/curtain thing, made NO sense too me… I feel it was a bad choice of wording my brain is not compatible with. Im sure it’s prolly very easy to understand.
I might be able to explain it a bit better. Here, too, is a video that shows what's going on with a camera shutter when it fires at different speeds: ua-cam.com/video/ptfSW4eW25g/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared Basically, for typical, non-high-speed-flash sync use, the entire image sensor must be uncovered for the light from the flash to reach the entire sensor. All cameras like this one have a fastest shutter speed at which that is possible. As the video shows, at faster shutter speeds the shutter curtains create a slit over the sensor instead of allowing the entire sensor to be exposed to light all at once. That's how shutter timing is controlled. Shutter curtains always travel at exactly the same speed regardless of the shutter speed. Think of the shutter speed as the time that elapses between when the first shutter curtain moves and then when the second starts. If it takes 1/200th of a second for the shutter curtain to move from the top to the bottom of the sensor then that's going to be the fastest shutter speed at which a typical flash will work because with any shutter speed faster than 1/200th the second curtain starts to move behind the first curtain before the first curtain finishes traveling from the top to the bottom of the sensor.
@ sorry to bother but i need to learn this now, if i can. In reference to the curtain that creates a “bar” on a photo with faster than 1/200th shutter… is that ONLY if in a pitch black room and using flash?.. Cuz too me, a 2ms (or 1/500th) shutterspeed for example, works in non-flash shots… its just that, the normal flash will be hitting while movement of curtains will be happening, and wont affect photo fully (depending JUST how fast shutter is)… is that the idea?.. thanks so much my friend🙏🏻
Yes, definitely. With no flash, as long as you have enough light, a faster-than-1/200th shutter speed is a-okay. The flash sync is the fastest it can go wit ha typical type of flash (not high-speed sync.)
Yes and no. If you were in a cave with a flash and set the shutter speed to 1/1,000th and triggered the flash, you would have a bright line at one side of the image and the rest would be dark. This assume a standard flash setup. Let's say that you're not in a cave but at a concert -- light light but not no light. In that case, there would be a bright bar along one side of the image and the rest would be VERY dark but some bright areas like lights on the stage or something might still be visible.
Thank you, David, You're such an amazing teacher. I have no photography experience, but I've had my Canon ESO Rebel T2i camera since 2010 but really never used it, and it's been stored away for years. I recently got a Sony ZV1F camera for vlogging and photography and after purchasing the new camera I realized I still had this Canon T2i. I know it's an older camera, but it still works just fine and watching your videos has been tremendously helpful with me in trying to learn this camera. For a person with no photography knowledge your videos are so easy to understand. Thank you so much.
Thank you! This may be old, but they can still be great cameras.
Great video. As someone with no photography knowledge this has helped me at least get started, and start researching concepts i didnt know about.
Thank you and feel free to stop by and check out other videos for questions or research topics.
Thank you for this video - I have now rediscovered my Canon 550! It can apparently do a lot more than I thought it could 😊😊
Thank you!
Thank you very much for these videos.
Thank you!
Thanks David ,,, great information,,,
Thank you!
What do I do when it says "no image" when taking a picture?
@@NSsuki do you have a memory card of the correct type instead?
@ I don’t really know, I just got a camera today without any knowledge or experience
@NSsuki it sounds like you don't have an SD card.
@@DavidHancock alright, I’ll look into that
is this have canon log
Nice!
Bro u didnt show how to put the flash on ?😔 thats alll i needed to know
Yeah, I tend not to actually mount the flashes for these videos, but it's pretty straightforward. The basic process is just loosen the lock, slide it in, and tighten the lock. There are two types of locks, a screw-type and a lever-type. When you're adjusting the lock, look at the flash from the back and see if the gap between the lock and the foot of the flash increases. If so, then that's the time to install it. Simply tighten it once seated.
@@DavidHancockthat description of how curtain works and why flash doesnt work. Sounds like the camera ITSELF cant go under 1/200th… let alone a flash used. Im sorry the description totally has me confused
@@DavidHancockif the first curtain opens, then 1/500th of a second goes by, then curtain closes… how is the sensor NOT exposed for 1/500th of a sec.? Why does this make no sense too me?.. and how does it even relate to flash as it seems the shutter is doing a weird thing, where not even IT is effectively able to take a pic right? im confused
that description of the bulb/curtain thing, made NO sense too me… I feel it was a bad choice of wording my brain is not compatible with. Im sure it’s prolly very easy to understand.
I might be able to explain it a bit better. Here, too, is a video that shows what's going on with a camera shutter when it fires at different speeds: ua-cam.com/video/ptfSW4eW25g/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared
Basically, for typical, non-high-speed-flash sync use, the entire image sensor must be uncovered for the light from the flash to reach the entire sensor. All cameras like this one have a fastest shutter speed at which that is possible. As the video shows, at faster shutter speeds the shutter curtains create a slit over the sensor instead of allowing the entire sensor to be exposed to light all at once. That's how shutter timing is controlled. Shutter curtains always travel at exactly the same speed regardless of the shutter speed. Think of the shutter speed as the time that elapses between when the first shutter curtain moves and then when the second starts. If it takes 1/200th of a second for the shutter curtain to move from the top to the bottom of the sensor then that's going to be the fastest shutter speed at which a typical flash will work because with any shutter speed faster than 1/200th the second curtain starts to move behind the first curtain before the first curtain finishes traveling from the top to the bottom of the sensor.
@ too me it sounds like the camera itself (no flash) cant take an effective picture faster than 1/200th then.. is that true?
@ sorry to bother but i need to learn this now, if i can. In reference to the curtain that creates a “bar” on a photo with faster than 1/200th shutter… is that ONLY if in a pitch black room and using flash?.. Cuz too me, a 2ms (or 1/500th) shutterspeed for example, works in non-flash shots… its just that, the normal flash will be hitting while movement of curtains will be happening, and wont affect photo fully (depending JUST how fast shutter is)… is that the idea?.. thanks so much my friend🙏🏻
Yes, definitely. With no flash, as long as you have enough light, a faster-than-1/200th shutter speed is a-okay. The flash sync is the fastest it can go wit ha typical type of flash (not high-speed sync.)
Yes and no. If you were in a cave with a flash and set the shutter speed to 1/1,000th and triggered the flash, you would have a bright line at one side of the image and the rest would be dark. This assume a standard flash setup. Let's say that you're not in a cave but at a concert -- light light but not no light. In that case, there would be a bright bar along one side of the image and the rest would be VERY dark but some bright areas like lights on the stage or something might still be visible.