Installing Crown Moulding on Full Overlay Cabinetry
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- Опубліковано 30 лип 2024
- Avoid the Crown Mullet: learn the proper way to install crown moulding. In this video, Dan discusses how to create a visually correct look for crown moulding installed on full overlay cabinetry. Installing it incorrectly can result in what Dan calls "the crown mullet".
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Finally!! Someone provides a video with explanations I was looking for!! Thank you!!
Thanks Dan, I have always hated install crown mudding. Thank showing us the diffrent between them 2. 🙏
Thanks in the process of installing crown molding now. I like the heel method and will try that out.
Your explanation of the heel crown save the day! Thank you!
Great video. I always wondered and you did a great job explaining.
Thanks good information , I'm dealing with 43 inch wall cabinets that are a full overlay door and close to the ceiling I'll have to build on heels to the crown molding first and use that method , Thanks .
Very good video. I am curious if you have ideas for installing an elevated crown moulding where the ceiling height is say 4-6 inches above the cabinet top? I am using IKEA full frame cabinets and struggling with how to connect nicely a crown moulding. thank you. Just discovered you but will watch more. Keep safe and thank you for making a difference.
Great video and visual examples like this way or teaching defiantly nice layout
Thank you for you’re knowledgeable video!
Excellent video. Thank you
Great video I wish you could have opened the cabinet door to have a peek at it … what is the name of that crown molding you used? Do you know if it comes in a shorter version?
Great explanation! Thanks!
Interesting... We do a lot of full overlay doors and we usually install blocking flush with the cabinet box to fasten our crown molding to. We have the mullet effect that you're talking about but it has never appeared abnormal to myself, the crew, or clients. We have never considered it a problem. I will take this into consideration.
I too have never heard of the mullet effect. I'm kind of guilty myself doing that sometimes 😬.
Super helpful - thank you!
I'm needing to replace kitchen cabinet 2" crown molding and still match the existing molding on other parts of the cabinets. House built in 1998 and I can't find matching molding at either Lowes or Home Depot. Coincidently, I came to this video and noticed my crown molding I believe matches the sample shown during the beginning of your video. Any suggestions how to match this or where to buy 2" molding?
Finally it's explained correctly
I like this idea but, I have a concern that your video doesn't cover. Our "full" overlay doors are about 3/8" below the top of the cabinet. The top edge of the door is 3/8" below the top edge of the cabinet. If I do what you're suggesting, and was planning to do, there will be a 3/8" gap between the board that the crown nails to and the top edge of the door. So I guess I could rabbit the board to drop it down and reduce most of the 3/8" gap. What I'm wondering is; what do most people do in that situation? Leave the gap?
finding crown moulding with heel in the US? Do you know of a commercial vendor or should I just build it by gluing crown to 1x2?
Great info.
where can I get that full overlay mouding?
Can you do a video with starter moulding, thank you 😊
Great vid thanks
Very good…… but for simpletons like me, you have forgotten to address the issue of measuring and cutting the 45 degree cut. Surely that is part of “installing crown moulding”. My web search continues 😊
Hi. Did you find a good link on the 45°? I’m facing the same issue now as I start my install.
Where can I buy that molding
Thank you for explaining minor cosmetic details that only seasoned carpenters would notice. No real connection to a mullet hairdo 😏Also, I think video title should change: "crown molding overlay recommendations👍🏻
No, the problem he's solving is not minor. The cabinet will look ugly, and non-carpenters will notice, even if they don't understand what's wrong. If you don't care for beauty, why do you even install mouldings?
Just out of curiosity how to you plan to install that crown with a heal after the cabinets are up and they are 36" uppers in a standard 8' ceiling? I have found that (all in 1) heal crown combo making for a very sloppy install and problematic. Help me out if you can.
I only use crown with heel when I have enough room above the cabinets to fasten it from above. However, I do know of some installers that will use crown with heel even if the crown goes close to the ceiling. They will drill and screw the moulding from underneath. Whenever I'm installing, I prefer to use the blocking method and use conventional crown moulding (without the heel). Hope that helps! Happy installing! ~Dan
Thanks for the lesson. Where can you buy crown molding with a heel?
You will have to make it. Add a 1x2 to the crown. Glue and pins nails, or finish nails.
what kind and size board do you use for the blocking method? something like 5/4 ripped, finished and installed?
I prefer to use 7/8" thick solid stock, which is roughly the thickness of the door plus the space between the door and the cabinet (~1/8"). If you have thicker doors, I would adjust the thickness accordingly. I typically only finish 1 long edge, which is the edge pointing down, and then install the crown flush with the bottom of the blocking material. I hope this helps!
~Dan
Good video , may I know where could I find crown with return bottom? searched on some box stores but no luck finding
Make your own
How do I nail/screw the heel to crown? I have plenty of room above as the ceiling is vaulted, I don't want to nail on the crown finished side.
Hi Tim,
If you're using crown moulding with the heel attached and you have room from above, I recommend screwing down from above into the cabinet. You can also nail from above, but I prefer screws. If you're attaching the crown to a nailer block you'll probably need to nail through the finished side into the nailer. If you're looking to avoid that you can either glue and clamp it, or use CA Glue, like Starbond. It bonds in seconds, so make sure you have it in place.
Hopefully that helps!
~Dan
I plan on installing crown using the “heal” method and pulling the front out so the crown is almost flush with the overlay door front. But I have a problem. I have two taller wdc273615 diagonal wall cabinets that I want to wrap all the way around back to the wall with crown but when I pull the front crown forward, it also moves the side crown away from the sides so I have a large reveal on the sides too. If I cut the heal and crown to be flush with the 1/4” stiles on the sides, the miter joints move inward on the front and don’t align with the 45 degree corner of the cabinet. I’m afraid this will not look right either way I do it. Any suggestions?
Where did you find crown with that return bottom? I want to use something like what he used in this video but I cannot find it anywhere!
There are definitely some no-win situations where you have to make compromises to get the best look in the situation at hand. It sounds like this might be one of them. If you send some pictures of what you’re up against to info@keystonewood.com I’ll be happy to give some recommendations. ~Dan
I don't get it - the front and side look 100% the same from where I'm sitting
If your moving crown molding out to to the face of the door what do you do about the side of cabinets with the side rail sticking out
Hi Bruce!
I'm not sure what scenario you're describing. Could you send a sketch or a photo of the situation you're describing?
Thanks!
~Dan
@@keystonewoodspecialties1973 i've got same issue i think-- vertical side rail protrudes abt 1/4" from side wall of cabinets with full overlay doors.. I've seen videos that show notching that out-- tough pill to swallow cutting my wood cabinets! which may be what @bruce q is describing
@@jpvmd Hi jpvmd!
I've seen installers address your situation two different ways: 1. Exactly how you described, by notching the face frame where the crown moulding turns from the face to the end. 2. I've seen installers install a piece of inverted scribe moulding towards the top of the cabinet end to build out the end flush with the edge of the face frame so you don't have to notch the face frame and your crown moulding can be installed on top of the scribe. Some will hold the scribe flush with the bottom of the crown, others will extend it down a little bit with the radius of the scribe exposed.
Hopefully that helps! Happy installing!
~Dan
I've installed cabs for 25 yrs and quite frankly we don't use any of these methods
😎
Thanks
great video. Where can I find crown with a "heel?" Google has let me down!
You have to make it yourself
You didn't show HOW to do it. How do you make the crown molding come out flush with the door?
To be honest, "full overlay" is just stupid. Why install face frames if they are gonna be covered with doors? Just hang the doors to the sides and be done. From the side it looks like you have 2 layers of doors hung, plus wasting 3/4" of space :-) I think this fashion will soon pass, together with painted cabinets. (The video is still very good, I liked it.)
It looks like I installed all my cabinets upside down.