How to Hang Crown Molding on Kitchen Cabinets | Ask This Old House
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- Опубліковано 6 вер 2024
- Ask This Old House general contractor Tom Silva installs crown molding on kitchen cabinets with full overlay doors
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Time: 6 hours
Cost: $100
Skill Level: Moderate
Tools List for Hanging Crown Molding:
Brad nailer
Compressor
Drill driver
Miter saw
Caulking gun
Shopping List:
5/4” Pine
Fast drying spray primer
Super glue
Wood glue
Brad nails
Wood screws
Pencil
Wood putty
Paintable caulking
Steps:
1. Cut strips of the 5/4” pine to length and width, based on the size of the cabinets. These will be the filler pieces.
2. Make rabbet cuts on the filler pieces so that the piece fits tightly on the top of the cabinet and over the door of the cabinet.
3. Once the cuts are all made, spray paint the filler pieces to match the color of the cabinets in case they show through.
4. Mount the filler pieces to the cabinets using super glue to hold it in place and wood glue to more permanently bond it to the cabinet.
5. From the sides of the cabinet, nail the filler pieces in the place. For the front filler piece, drill from underneath the inside of the cabinet, and then secure that piece with wood screws.
6. Hold up the crown molding on the sides of the cabinet. Be sure they’re tight against the wall. Use a pencil to mark from the inside the correct measurement to cut the crown molding. Draw an arrow on the inside to help determine which angle the miter cut should go.
7. Hold the crown molding upside down and backwards so that it presses up safely against the fence of the miter saw. To keep it from slipping, you can use some of the clear polyurethane glue and a couple small pieces of wood to glue on the base of the saw to act as stops.
8. Turn the miter saw to 45 degrees based on the direction of the mark drawn on the crown molding during measuring. Cut the piece.
9. To make the sister cut on the opposite piece of crown molding, turn the saw to the opposite 45 degree angle and cut it again.
10. Nail the two pieces together using the brad nailer and then hold the crown molding back up to the cabinet to get the next measurement. Measure and mark the front piece of crown molding. Be sure to also mark the direction of the angle for the crown molding like before.
11. Make the miter cut for the front piece of crown molding. Then, make the sister cut for the following side like before.
12. Mount the crown molding to the cabinet using the brad nailer. Repeat this process with the rest of the cabinets with outside corners.
13. For any cabinets with an inside corner, cut the miters with the opposite 45 degree angle so that the miter angles on the crown molding cuts into itself.
14. Fill in all the nail holes with wood putty.
15. Caulk around the crown molding where it meets the ceiling to give it a finished look.
Resources:
The homeowner had already purchased shaker-style cabinets that came with the crown molding.
The wood glue and super glue Tom used for the crown molding and the filler pieces are both manufactured by Gorilla Glue (www.gorillatou....
The other materials Tom used to install the crown molding, including the brad nailer, compressor, and spray paint, are all found at home centers. For the spray paint, Tom recommends getting a fast drying spray primer with a dry time of one hour.
Expert assistance with this segment was provided by Universal Factory Direct (universalfacto....
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How to Hang Crown Molding on Kitchen Cabinets | Ask This Old House
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this man is a new england treasure. he makes finish carpentry , look easy.
I’m 40 years old this year. I have been watching “ This Old House” since childhood. My step father and I loved this on public television. I really love the familiarity even after all these years, that if I have questions I can almost always find the solution through the program. Thanks for all the years you guys have been running this show!!!!!!!!
💯
I love when Tom was explaining things to the homeowner Brian about the cuts needed and Brian was all like “ah Ok ... oh OK”. Tom should have been like “Now it’s your turn”. LOL
You know the Key? Practice. I'm sure Tom has messed up a few things in his life.
It’s always amazing to see how the littlest things makes such a huge difference in the overall look of a project. Great job.👍🏽
Tom is awesome because he is good at explaining.
Hell yes. I could watch him all day. Is he on tv in USA?!
This man is the one who started this home improvement craze. He motivated everyone who is currently or was in the home improvement business.
Pretty sure it was Bob Vila that started the home improvement crazy. He was the face of home improvement in the 80s and 90s
Wish there were more skilled craftsmen like Tom These days you pay premium price for cabinet install but would be lucky if the get attention to details like Tom
You guys should have included Tom making some custom triangle rips we see installed on the crown at 8:02. Those are the kinds of details I have to run into on remodels all the time, guessing their ceiling is sloped or the wall the cabinet is on is way out of square with the ceiling. Looks to be 3/8" of filler at the corner.
I'm 27 years old in my first home. I'm tackling this project this summer! Can't wait.
Tom makes it look so easy and simple.
Thank you Tom!! You have helped us with so many issues that have come up over the years. You're an amazing instructor with easy to comprehend instructions! Thanks again!
HE MAKES EVERYTHING LOOK SO EASY!!!!
Ryan Schmitt you got a like from this old house you’re up there lol 👌
@@screweduplife14 It's easy to make things look easy when you have the luxury of editing the film....So many F bombs were undoubtedly editing out.
Ryan Schmitt
I have been watching him for a long time! He is a master craftsmen in his own right. Thanks Tom!
It is easy. It's really not that difficult.
BELIEVE ME I CAN'T DO ANY OF THIS TYPE OF WORK IT TAKES TALENT.
Well, Tom sure made that look easy!
Lol that look he gave when he asked, do you have the crown moulding? Priceless
Looks so much better with the molding on it
An old house means lots of filler, shims and caulk! Nice job!
I'm must gonna get a cheap hand saw and eye ball the cuts. LOL
I would have had Tom sign his work, Then put clear coat over it, that way when you sold the house the new owners knew Tom was the person who put in the Crown over the cabnits.
It might not be a big deal to some people but it would really impress me.
Tom your work will live on in history.
Everyone's work at this Old house will.
That's not taking anything away from people in the trades all your work will live on it history.
Take pride in what you do know whatever it is its going to last for years if the jobs done right.
Park your cant see it from my driveway smartass remarks at your door before you go to work each day and do the best job that can be done or learn how to.
I needed this so bad I can’t believe it came to me days before I need to do the molding in my house
I love to see this guy working that’s pure passion and experience
A dream to have such a Craftsman come to help! Amazing as usual.
Good job and thanks for passing along what it took decades to learn. For viewers, knowing how to work vs. copying methods are 2 different things. Godspeed.
Tom is an absolutely amazing carpenter. What I would give to be able to work with him for a year.
Tom comes to a complicated situation, looks it over for a couple minutes and says: "I think we can solve that problem...so why don't we get some tools...."
Imagine smearing a glued up block of wood to Festool mitre saw
I glue wood to my saw all the time but I put masking tape down first to protect the saw surface and easly remove the wood once I'm done
Tom is so good at what he does
I've seen people go crazy trying to cut crown. I always tell them to cut crown you have to cut it upside down and backwards. I always cope my inside miter incase the cabinets are not square and if the crown is just going on the wall the corners are always out of square and a coped joint is the better choice.
Coping is a pain. Make a sample pair and see what's what with the corner. Then shave a degree here and there. I don't see any advantage in coping. Maybe you are better than me. That's probable.
Never cope on cabinets, only on inside corners if install on a wall
@@alext9067 Once you know how to do it correctly it can be quicker and tighter than trying to fit a mitered corner. The trick is to finish on the outside corner not associated with coped end. Begin with a longer piece of stock than required and fit the coped end first. Cut the coped piece at a 45 angle perpendicular to the face, or simply lay it flat on the table when cutting the crown, then utilize the front edge as a guide to make your cope. This method allows you to provide pressure to marry the coped end and leave the piece long to mark the back for the outside corner. It is a stronger and cleaner connection.
I know it sounds complicated but is truly more difficult to explain through writing than to explain while doing. I am sure there are many videos that do a great job showing the correct coping process.
I love how he doesn't even mention the huge gap between the ceiling and the molding and when installed there is magically a filler strip there. Also awfully brave with the assumption the inside corner is in fact 90 degrees, I did baseboard on an old house and found the inside angle for all 4 corners was larger than 360 degrees, and yeah I double, triple and quadruple checked that number.
makes sense if there's a bow in the walls.
That is why I install one piece at a time and adjust the angle for tight fits.
That’s why real trim carpenters own a coping saw. Lost all respect for him as a carpenter when he didn’t even mention coping inside corners as an option- let alone the far superior way to install it!
Good eye. Funny how it wasn’t even mentioned in the video.
I have same problems in my kitchen. This is very helpful. Thanks.
Beautiful. It really makes the cabinets look so custom.
Tom is my idol maybe one day ill be at least half the man he is
Mitering is so hard. I am going to share this with my husband. We have same exact issue, and unfinished tops.
The filler at the top was just caulk. Tom said "looks good from my house"
Jamie Buxton that what he said?
Tommy is a national treasure !!
Brian (home owner) is probably the only sane person who doesn't hang his TV over the fireplace.
I agree...don't understand why you would want to look up all the time...unless you have absolutely no room to put it anywhere else...
Now the cabinet face extends past the end of the cabinet carcass by a bit... but you say to have the side fillers flush with the side of the cabinet carcass. That appears to leave a pretty good gap when you put the side crown molding on, a thin triangle gap beginning at the back and getting larger as the molding goes to the front of the cabinet. How did you handle this gap?
I have the same concern and question
@@jonathanspencer5141 Maybe they filled it in with caulk but on nonwhite crown what do you do?
Good observation, like you said it's not addressed in the video.
Watched and paused about 10 times to see how it looked in the end but no good shots of it.
I install cabinets about once or twice a month. Not too fancy but was working for a cabinet company last job and what the owner does is that he fills that void with the scribe. And that is what I did on the job I did for him recently. Looks fine!
True Craftsman. Always enjoy the teaching aspect if his videos.
The homeowner sounds like a curator at a museum.
How this guy Tom still has all his fingers is a miracle.
Such great videos. they gave me such inspiration for my own channel. Thank you
You did it again Tom thanks.. always learn something new or a different way.
Tom only covered basics. My question to to Tom would you use shims on the top of the molding in your own house? I certainly wouldn't. Keep it as tight to the ceiling as possible and work the miter from there. Blunt cutting molding then useing a pencil for a cut line is a huge waste of material. Measure cut maybe leave a eighth of an inch to work the miter. Might need to cut longer but the molding that is being used is not very tall and easy to work miters.
Tommy did a nice job as usual...but the first step is: if you want to put crown molding on your cabinets...choose different cabinets and make your life a lot easier.
Curious there was no mention of what appear to be shims used extensively to square the molding with the ceiling.
I always learn something from your videos great job "this old house"
But the problem is the cabinets are already up. Yes you put a nailer on for your crown molding before you put up your cabinets. So he is right but he showed you on a cabinet b4 it was hung up. So keep that in mind
Is the "This Old House" gang familiar/west coast master carpenter Larry Haun (RIP)?
still dont understand what the point of flipping the molding upside down is for but if he says do it I guess one should do it.
Mine is similar but I have end panels so my side reveal will match the front exactly
Nice trick. But how did they get a can of spray paint to match the cabinet paint? Thanks.
Very satisfying to watch
Tommy nailed it again
The moment when crown molding realizes it's just the "side piece"
I have two questions I hope that you'll see.
1. What gauge nails did you use?
2. If you have sufficient space above the doors, do you need to add backer, or can you nail into the cabinet?
Tom has definitely done this a time or two.
Great video as this is exactly what I am doing now but the front cabinet frames stick out on the sides and the video doesn't really show what was done there. Did he cut a filler piece or just fill it in with caulking? Also since they were painting the could just caulk but I'm thinking that inside corners are often times coped. Still enjoyed the video.
At 8:16 it looks like he added a filler piece.
Tom is the best!
This old house using import prefab Chinese kitchen , , I guess they are great great stuff after all .....if in Canada Ontario , try Cowry kitchen in Toronto , they have these cabinets for $5500 for a full kitchen like this, and they deliver everywhere in Canada .including quarts countertop sink and taps .....
They didn't even show all the steps they took and they didn't cut those at 45, otherwise the side pieces on the first cabinet wouldn't be like that (not flush with the ceiling). You can see they had to cut a long triangle on all of the side pieces to fill the gaps (perhaps that could be from the cabinets not being hung properly). Either way, its never easy and always requires improv.
Make sure you glue your miter joints. Tom probably did off camera but they will separate over time if you don’t.
Tom is the man!
Tommy is Mozart of all carpentry!
For the backer boards, it looks like Tom ripped 2x4 down the middle, making 1-11/16" x 1-1/2". He leaves 5/8" projection (door thickness). So the rabbet is 1/8" deep by 1-1/16" wide. I was surprised that he set the fence so close to the blade. Norm always made a sacrificial fence so that the blade did not damage his fence.
I would have did the front cut like the side cut and used a 3/4" rabbet
A 5 out of 10 install at best. Why install the nailers flush with the side? You now have a 1/4 inch gap due to the face frame being wider than the cabinet box. Why now just rabbit the side nailer to overhang to side 1/4" then spray it white like the front. nailer.
No mention of this. Looks like he trimmed the frame or just left the gap and installed at an angle. Weird.
I have the same concern and question
I wish my job was to watch Tommy work all day....I'd be rich!!!
Tom you made it look so easy I have been doing remodeling for over 18 years and still not good when it comes to crown molding.
The key? The blocking behind the crown molding. Also, a nice pin nailer.
looks like he is using two different types of nailers. a Senco that is a regular trim nailer maybe 16 to 18 gauge. And then it looks like a Bostitch 23 gauge nailer range 3/8" to 1 3/16" of an inch for the outside corners. the smaller one is a headless pin nailer.
Great work Tommy.
So do you just leave the gap from the face frame ? Looks like you went over it being you dropped the front down a little to leave the gap smaller ?
You guys are awesome, thanks for everything.
Did you paint the caulking.... if not that’s collect dust and look darker within months
That would be optional if you utilized a "paintable caulk". The crown and top of the kitchen doors and any raised edge will collect dust over time as well, so not sure f painting the caulk would be a high priority with respect to the collection of dust.
Can anyone tell me where to purchase kitchen cabinet 2" crown molding from a 1998 installation? I cannot find the same design or 2" molding at Lowes or Home Depot and apparently styles have changed. All that's carried at these stores now is generally 3" or more.
You can do that with the ceiling is level and even,,if not it not looking good
This guy is either an actor or well rehearsed
My problem is that I can't find any 5/4 stock. I guess I will have to find something close to a 2x2 and cut it to size. All I have where I live is Home Depot and Lowes. These cabinets are almost exactly the same as mine.
Tommy’s a beast , nice job 👌
Can you tell me what glue you used to glue the crown Moulding stop to your miter saw. Thanks!
Why didn’t you explain the shims used at the top of the crown moldings?
Can’t give all the trade secrets away. 😉
If he had even ceiling it’s a non issue.
As a trim carpenter I am disappointed in this video.
@@joedirt22222 Me too
This is a youtube edit. Its quite likely that the complete episode contains a description of how to size and cut the shims to make up for the uneven ceiling.
I did see any cuts for a wall that’s in a corner of the wall
Tom you do great work, but why would you glue wood to your saw?
Glue brands and nail or brad size information would be extremely helpful. Using my hammer ruins my joint alignment and is tough working alone...
18ga brads. 23 gauge pins. No hammers or finish nails. That is for door casing and things you can hammer on. Many many other techniques for crown. They showed the basics here for average diy duty.
Stop being a beta male. Just do it. You're making it too complicated.
I also wondered why they didn't address the shims on the tops of the crown to make up for the ceiling not being level. That was the first thing I noticed. I also cope my inside corners. A chop saw with the built in stops for crown, like my Ridgid 12", makes it so much easier than having to flip the pieces upside down.
I wish I had the tools to do this myself
Very beautiful work
So disappointed that he didn’t show how he cut out that small Notch
Amazing video, thank you for the help
I wish I could hire this guy!👏
Ok, where to find crown moulding that goes with my existing cabinets?
Very cool. A little surprised that the Festool saw did not have a laser on it.
So you glued guide blocks to your miter saw to help hold the crown molding in place (great Idea by the way), but how do you remove those guide blocks after the project is completed? 👍With lots of love💖 from sunny🌞 Arizona🌵
I think he hot glued the pieces...if so, that comes out easily
@@Lexlugr, the glue he used was in a bottle. Couldn't tell if it was super glue or jell glue. 💜🌞🌵
Break them off with a hammer when you are done with the project.
He used super glue. Doesn't hold up against shear forces so you simply take a mallet and smack the block and it comes off. Then you scrape the residual glue off of the saw with a razor scraper.
@@buckhorncortez I must try that, I only wish I had an broken saw to test it on first.
Do we always assemble the corners first then attach to cabinet? I suppose that makes a no gap corner mitre.
How come his nail gun is so quiet? Mine sounds like I’m shooting someone next door, and it’s cordless!
My guess would be that in reality it isn't that quiet. There was probably some post processing done to reduce the volume of the brad nailer.
It’s a pin nailer running small, short nails and with the compressor set to low psi. Trim is usually very soft and doesn’t require long, thick, high compression fired nails.
Bring back the original theme song of this old house to the show!!!
Like I said when you posted this comment on a previous video: This isn't "This Old House". This is "Ask This Old House". It never used the TOH theme.
@@jej3451 I know but I couldn't find a recent this old house clip to say this on. And I don't remember saying this before
Should have shown the inside corner cut and maybe the shimy shims
My crown molding sags during low humidity winter months, I re -calk but how do you keep them from sagging during winter??
Maybe drive some more nails, especially in a "v" pattern in sections you can't shoot into framing.
wonderful job.
I like using hot glue behind the miter to hold it fast.
What is the glue used to stick the block on with? How will it be removed?
Agreed. That appears to be a great tip, but would love to know what the product was and how it would be removed
How far away should the top of the cabinet be from the ceiling with a 3" piece of crown molding?
OR....you lower the door down so it's flush with the bottom of the cabinet then you have room to attach the drown and the door will look centered
How to do you finish the underside of the crown at 2:45? The cabinet face is wider than the sides. Did you just leave a 1/4'' gap there?
Travis B I’ve always cut a filler strip the width of the face frame overhang and pin nailed it in place. Some guys will cut the face frame but that’s a bad look.
I Just fill with a scribe piece, its the same 1/4 " size.
They just put the nailer up and slapped the crown to it, so its tight against the cabinet at the wall and out 1/4 at the front. That means the 45* angle out front is no longer 45. They should have painted the nailer and let it hang over 1/4 to make up the difference.
Yeah you right. I just noticed how they attached a piece on top by ceiling to cover that big crooked gap. Hehe.
The crown went over top of the face that sticks out past the side. 7:07
Poor Tom is thinking "I wish I could have put these nailers on before the cabinets were hung". Something every trim carpenter knows. I'm sure if he would have been on hand for the cabinet install, those nailers would already be there.