I’m 40 years old this year. I have been watching “ This Old House” since childhood. My step father and I loved this on public television. I really love the familiarity even after all these years, that if I have questions I can almost always find the solution through the program. Thanks for all the years you guys have been running this show!!!!!!!!
You guys should have included Tom making some custom triangle rips we see installed on the crown at 8:02. Those are the kinds of details I have to run into on remodels all the time, guessing their ceiling is sloped or the wall the cabinet is on is way out of square with the ceiling. Looks to be 3/8" of filler at the corner.
Thank you Tom!! You have helped us with so many issues that have come up over the years. You're an amazing instructor with easy to comprehend instructions! Thanks again!
Wish there were more skilled craftsmen like Tom These days you pay premium price for cabinet install but would be lucky if the get attention to details like Tom
I love when Tom was explaining things to the homeowner Brian about the cuts needed and Brian was all like “ah Ok ... oh OK”. Tom should have been like “Now it’s your turn”. LOL
Good job and thanks for passing along what it took decades to learn. For viewers, knowing how to work vs. copying methods are 2 different things. Godspeed.
But the problem is the cabinets are already up. Yes you put a nailer on for your crown molding before you put up your cabinets. So he is right but he showed you on a cabinet b4 it was hung up. So keep that in mind
Tom comes to a complicated situation, looks it over for a couple minutes and says: "I think we can solve that problem...so why don't we get some tools...."
Travis B I’ve always cut a filler strip the width of the face frame overhang and pin nailed it in place. Some guys will cut the face frame but that’s a bad look.
They just put the nailer up and slapped the crown to it, so its tight against the cabinet at the wall and out 1/4 at the front. That means the 45* angle out front is no longer 45. They should have painted the nailer and let it hang over 1/4 to make up the difference.
Great video as this is exactly what I am doing now but the front cabinet frames stick out on the sides and the video doesn't really show what was done there. Did he cut a filler piece or just fill it in with caulking? Also since they were painting the could just caulk but I'm thinking that inside corners are often times coped. Still enjoyed the video.
This is a youtube edit. Its quite likely that the complete episode contains a description of how to size and cut the shims to make up for the uneven ceiling.
Tom only covered basics. My question to to Tom would you use shims on the top of the molding in your own house? I certainly wouldn't. Keep it as tight to the ceiling as possible and work the miter from there. Blunt cutting molding then useing a pencil for a cut line is a huge waste of material. Measure cut maybe leave a eighth of an inch to work the miter. Might need to cut longer but the molding that is being used is not very tall and easy to work miters.
Now the cabinet face extends past the end of the cabinet carcass by a bit... but you say to have the side fillers flush with the side of the cabinet carcass. That appears to leave a pretty good gap when you put the side crown molding on, a thin triangle gap beginning at the back and getting larger as the molding goes to the front of the cabinet. How did you handle this gap?
Good observation, like you said it's not addressed in the video. Watched and paused about 10 times to see how it looked in the end but no good shots of it.
I install cabinets about once or twice a month. Not too fancy but was working for a cabinet company last job and what the owner does is that he fills that void with the scribe. And that is what I did on the job I did for him recently. Looks fine!
I would have had Tom sign his work, Then put clear coat over it, that way when you sold the house the new owners knew Tom was the person who put in the Crown over the cabnits. It might not be a big deal to some people but it would really impress me. Tom your work will live on in history. Everyone's work at this Old house will. That's not taking anything away from people in the trades all your work will live on it history. Take pride in what you do know whatever it is its going to last for years if the jobs done right. Park your cant see it from my driveway smartass remarks at your door before you go to work each day and do the best job that can be done or learn how to.
That would be optional if you utilized a "paintable caulk". The crown and top of the kitchen doors and any raised edge will collect dust over time as well, so not sure f painting the caulk would be a high priority with respect to the collection of dust.
I've seen people go crazy trying to cut crown. I always tell them to cut crown you have to cut it upside down and backwards. I always cope my inside miter incase the cabinets are not square and if the crown is just going on the wall the corners are always out of square and a coped joint is the better choice.
Coping is a pain. Make a sample pair and see what's what with the corner. Then shave a degree here and there. I don't see any advantage in coping. Maybe you are better than me. That's probable.
@@alext9067 Once you know how to do it correctly it can be quicker and tighter than trying to fit a mitered corner. The trick is to finish on the outside corner not associated with coped end. Begin with a longer piece of stock than required and fit the coped end first. Cut the coped piece at a 45 angle perpendicular to the face, or simply lay it flat on the table when cutting the crown, then utilize the front edge as a guide to make your cope. This method allows you to provide pressure to marry the coped end and leave the piece long to mark the back for the outside corner. It is a stronger and cleaner connection. I know it sounds complicated but is truly more difficult to explain through writing than to explain while doing. I am sure there are many videos that do a great job showing the correct coping process.
The guy's ceiling wasn't flat so they had a progressive gap there. Actually that gap was super huge for a small length of ceiling, idk maybe the cabinets themselves were on the wonk.
That wasn't a mistake. Well it was but not done by Tom. The homeowner and his dad did all the remodeling work, walls and cabinets included. The cabinets were hung all screwed up or the ceiling is that uneven. Tom is installing the crown based on the cabinets not the wall. Easier to scribe and make a shim instead of removing and hanging all the cabinets correctly.
18ga brads. 23 gauge pins. No hammers or finish nails. That is for door casing and things you can hammer on. Many many other techniques for crown. They showed the basics here for average diy duty.
This old house using import prefab Chinese kitchen , , I guess they are great great stuff after all .....if in Canada Ontario , try Cowry kitchen in Toronto , they have these cabinets for $5500 for a full kitchen like this, and they deliver everywhere in Canada .including quarts countertop sink and taps .....
I love how he doesn't even mention the huge gap between the ceiling and the molding and when installed there is magically a filler strip there. Also awfully brave with the assumption the inside corner is in fact 90 degrees, I did baseboard on an old house and found the inside angle for all 4 corners was larger than 360 degrees, and yeah I double, triple and quadruple checked that number.
That’s why real trim carpenters own a coping saw. Lost all respect for him as a carpenter when he didn’t even mention coping inside corners as an option- let alone the far superior way to install it!
Tommy did a nice job as usual...but the first step is: if you want to put crown molding on your cabinets...choose different cabinets and make your life a lot easier.
Can anyone tell me where to purchase kitchen cabinet 2" crown molding from a 1998 installation? I cannot find the same design or 2" molding at Lowes or Home Depot and apparently styles have changed. All that's carried at these stores now is generally 3" or more.
My problem is that I can't find any 5/4 stock. I guess I will have to find something close to a 2x2 and cut it to size. All I have where I live is Home Depot and Lowes. These cabinets are almost exactly the same as mine.
You can see that they just left it like that at 8:26 ... Not sure what's happening here? edit: You can also see that there is a large gap still at the "finished" reveal. 10:01
I have two questions I hope that you'll see. 1. What gauge nails did you use? 2. If you have sufficient space above the doors, do you need to add backer, or can you nail into the cabinet?
There was a whole lot of work they just pretended was not there. The space on the sides between the cabinet and the molding (seen @6:48) was filled with a painted piece of wood (you can see @6:55) and the uneven ceiling height is filled with another filler (see @815). Neither of these were addressed in this presentation..☹️
It’s a pin nailer running small, short nails and with the compressor set to low psi. Trim is usually very soft and doesn’t require long, thick, high compression fired nails.
this man is a new england treasure. he makes finish carpentry , look easy.
I’m 40 years old this year. I have been watching “ This Old House” since childhood. My step father and I loved this on public television. I really love the familiarity even after all these years, that if I have questions I can almost always find the solution through the program. Thanks for all the years you guys have been running this show!!!!!!!!
💯
You guys should have included Tom making some custom triangle rips we see installed on the crown at 8:02. Those are the kinds of details I have to run into on remodels all the time, guessing their ceiling is sloped or the wall the cabinet is on is way out of square with the ceiling. Looks to be 3/8" of filler at the corner.
Thank you Tom!! You have helped us with so many issues that have come up over the years. You're an amazing instructor with easy to comprehend instructions! Thanks again!
I'm 27 years old in my first home. I'm tackling this project this summer! Can't wait.
Wish there were more skilled craftsmen like Tom These days you pay premium price for cabinet install but would be lucky if the get attention to details like Tom
It’s always amazing to see how the littlest things makes such a huge difference in the overall look of a project. Great job.👍🏽
I love when Tom was explaining things to the homeowner Brian about the cuts needed and Brian was all like “ah Ok ... oh OK”. Tom should have been like “Now it’s your turn”. LOL
You know the Key? Practice. I'm sure Tom has messed up a few things in his life.
Tom is awesome because he is good at explaining.
Hell yes. I could watch him all day. Is he on tv in USA?!
Lol that look he gave when he asked, do you have the crown moulding? Priceless
Good job and thanks for passing along what it took decades to learn. For viewers, knowing how to work vs. copying methods are 2 different things. Godspeed.
Tom makes it look so easy and simple.
I love to see this guy working that’s pure passion and experience
An old house means lots of filler, shims and caulk! Nice job!
I needed this so bad I can’t believe it came to me days before I need to do the molding in my house
Looks so much better with the molding on it
Well, Tom sure made that look easy!
True Craftsman. Always enjoy the teaching aspect if his videos.
You did it again Tom thanks.. always learn something new or a different way.
A dream to have such a Craftsman come to help! Amazing as usual.
love this show amazing to see how he transform the ordinary to something so splended
Tom is so good at what he does
Such great videos. they gave me such inspiration for my own channel. Thank you
HE MAKES EVERYTHING LOOK SO EASY!!!!
Ryan Schmitt you got a like from this old house you’re up there lol 👌
@@screweduplife14 It's easy to make things look easy when you have the luxury of editing the film....So many F bombs were undoubtedly editing out.
Ryan Schmitt
I have been watching him for a long time! He is a master craftsmen in his own right. Thanks Tom!
It is easy. It's really not that difficult.
BELIEVE ME I CAN'T DO ANY OF THIS TYPE OF WORK IT TAKES TALENT.
I have same problems in my kitchen. This is very helpful. Thanks.
Mitering is so hard. I am going to share this with my husband. We have same exact issue, and unfinished tops.
Nice trick. But how did they get a can of spray paint to match the cabinet paint? Thanks.
The key? The blocking behind the crown molding. Also, a nice pin nailer.
This man is the one who started this home improvement craze. He motivated everyone who is currently or was in the home improvement business.
Pretty sure it was Bob Vila that started the home improvement crazy. He was the face of home improvement in the 80s and 90s
False. This is the first Ive ever heard of this guy.
Beautiful. It really makes the cabinets look so custom.
Do we always assemble the corners first then attach to cabinet? I suppose that makes a no gap corner mitre.
I always learn something from your videos great job "this old house"
But the problem is the cabinets are already up. Yes you put a nailer on for your crown molding before you put up your cabinets. So he is right but he showed you on a cabinet b4 it was hung up. So keep that in mind
I'm must gonna get a cheap hand saw and eye ball the cuts. LOL
Curious there was no mention of what appear to be shims used extensively to square the molding with the ceiling.
Very satisfying to watch
Tom is an absolutely amazing carpenter. What I would give to be able to work with him for a year.
Tom comes to a complicated situation, looks it over for a couple minutes and says: "I think we can solve that problem...so why don't we get some tools...."
Mine is similar but I have end panels so my side reveal will match the front exactly
Tommy is a national treasure !!
How to do you finish the underside of the crown at 2:45? The cabinet face is wider than the sides. Did you just leave a 1/4'' gap there?
Travis B I’ve always cut a filler strip the width of the face frame overhang and pin nailed it in place. Some guys will cut the face frame but that’s a bad look.
I Just fill with a scribe piece, its the same 1/4 " size.
They just put the nailer up and slapped the crown to it, so its tight against the cabinet at the wall and out 1/4 at the front. That means the 45* angle out front is no longer 45. They should have painted the nailer and let it hang over 1/4 to make up the difference.
Yeah you right. I just noticed how they attached a piece on top by ceiling to cover that big crooked gap. Hehe.
The crown went over top of the face that sticks out past the side. 7:07
Great video as this is exactly what I am doing now but the front cabinet frames stick out on the sides and the video doesn't really show what was done there. Did he cut a filler piece or just fill it in with caulking? Also since they were painting the could just caulk but I'm thinking that inside corners are often times coped. Still enjoyed the video.
At 8:16 it looks like he added a filler piece.
This is NOT the video to watch if you want to learn how to cut and install Crown. This is pretty shoddy video, tbh.
So do you just leave the gap from the face frame ? Looks like you went over it being you dropped the front down a little to leave the gap smaller ?
Can you tell me what glue you used to glue the crown Moulding stop to your miter saw. Thanks!
Tom is the best!
Tommy’s a beast , nice job 👌
Why didn’t you explain the shims used at the top of the crown moldings?
Can’t give all the trade secrets away. 😉
If he had even ceiling it’s a non issue.
As a trim carpenter I am disappointed in this video.
@@joedirt22222 Me too
This is a youtube edit. Its quite likely that the complete episode contains a description of how to size and cut the shims to make up for the uneven ceiling.
Tom only covered basics. My question to to Tom would you use shims on the top of the molding in your own house? I certainly wouldn't. Keep it as tight to the ceiling as possible and work the miter from there. Blunt cutting molding then useing a pencil for a cut line is a huge waste of material. Measure cut maybe leave a eighth of an inch to work the miter. Might need to cut longer but the molding that is being used is not very tall and easy to work miters.
Now the cabinet face extends past the end of the cabinet carcass by a bit... but you say to have the side fillers flush with the side of the cabinet carcass. That appears to leave a pretty good gap when you put the side crown molding on, a thin triangle gap beginning at the back and getting larger as the molding goes to the front of the cabinet. How did you handle this gap?
I have the same concern and question
@@jonathanspencer5141 Maybe they filled it in with caulk but on nonwhite crown what do you do?
Good observation, like you said it's not addressed in the video.
Watched and paused about 10 times to see how it looked in the end but no good shots of it.
I install cabinets about once or twice a month. Not too fancy but was working for a cabinet company last job and what the owner does is that he fills that void with the scribe. And that is what I did on the job I did for him recently. Looks fine!
I did see any cuts for a wall that’s in a corner of the wall
What is the glue used to stick the block on with? How will it be removed?
Agreed. That appears to be a great tip, but would love to know what the product was and how it would be removed
Is the "This Old House" gang familiar/west coast master carpenter Larry Haun (RIP)?
I would have had Tom sign his work, Then put clear coat over it, that way when you sold the house the new owners knew Tom was the person who put in the Crown over the cabnits.
It might not be a big deal to some people but it would really impress me.
Tom your work will live on in history.
Everyone's work at this Old house will.
That's not taking anything away from people in the trades all your work will live on it history.
Take pride in what you do know whatever it is its going to last for years if the jobs done right.
Park your cant see it from my driveway smartass remarks at your door before you go to work each day and do the best job that can be done or learn how to.
Tom you do great work, but why would you glue wood to your saw?
What is the glue you used to glue the blocks to the?
What did you glue the blocks to the table with?
Tommy nailed it again
Did you paint the caulking.... if not that’s collect dust and look darker within months
That would be optional if you utilized a "paintable caulk". The crown and top of the kitchen doors and any raised edge will collect dust over time as well, so not sure f painting the caulk would be a high priority with respect to the collection of dust.
I've seen people go crazy trying to cut crown. I always tell them to cut crown you have to cut it upside down and backwards. I always cope my inside miter incase the cabinets are not square and if the crown is just going on the wall the corners are always out of square and a coped joint is the better choice.
Coping is a pain. Make a sample pair and see what's what with the corner. Then shave a degree here and there. I don't see any advantage in coping. Maybe you are better than me. That's probable.
Never cope on cabinets, only on inside corners if install on a wall
@@alext9067 Once you know how to do it correctly it can be quicker and tighter than trying to fit a mitered corner. The trick is to finish on the outside corner not associated with coped end. Begin with a longer piece of stock than required and fit the coped end first. Cut the coped piece at a 45 angle perpendicular to the face, or simply lay it flat on the table when cutting the crown, then utilize the front edge as a guide to make your cope. This method allows you to provide pressure to marry the coped end and leave the piece long to mark the back for the outside corner. It is a stronger and cleaner connection.
I know it sounds complicated but is truly more difficult to explain through writing than to explain while doing. I am sure there are many videos that do a great job showing the correct coping process.
You guys are awesome, thanks for everything.
Super Tommy
Tom is the man!
What was that angled filler piece at the top of the crown about?
The guy's ceiling wasn't flat so they had a progressive gap there. Actually that gap was super huge for a small length of ceiling, idk maybe the cabinets themselves were on the wonk.
@@Fe7Ace that's what I was thinking too. The homeowner was talking about how they remodeled everything and he probably hung the cabinets badly.
That's a giant mistake. Look at 7:08. He had the molding lined up fine. He should have nailed it right there.
alex tworkowski pretty sure tommy knows wtf he’s doing
That wasn't a mistake. Well it was but not done by Tom. The homeowner and his dad did all the remodeling work, walls and cabinets included. The cabinets were hung all screwed up or the ceiling is that uneven. Tom is installing the crown based on the cabinets not the wall. Easier to scribe and make a shim instead of removing and hanging all the cabinets correctly.
Amazing video, thank you for the help
Tom is my idol maybe one day ill be at least half the man he is
Nice kitchen.
How this guy Tom still has all his fingers is a miracle.
Tom has definitely done this a time or two.
Glue brands and nail or brad size information would be extremely helpful. Using my hammer ruins my joint alignment and is tough working alone...
18ga brads. 23 gauge pins. No hammers or finish nails. That is for door casing and things you can hammer on. Many many other techniques for crown. They showed the basics here for average diy duty.
Stop being a beta male. Just do it. You're making it too complicated.
Ok, where to find crown moulding that goes with my existing cabinets?
I love these videos thanks
This old house using import prefab Chinese kitchen , , I guess they are great great stuff after all .....if in Canada Ontario , try Cowry kitchen in Toronto , they have these cabinets for $5500 for a full kitchen like this, and they deliver everywhere in Canada .including quarts countertop sink and taps .....
What size nails should be used to attach the crown?
How far away should the top of the cabinet be from the ceiling with a 3" piece of crown molding?
Why the Filler on the the right side ? was the wall out of plumb ?
My crown molding sags during low humidity winter months, I re -calk but how do you keep them from sagging during winter??
Maybe drive some more nails, especially in a "v" pattern in sections you can't shoot into framing.
Very beautiful work
I love how he doesn't even mention the huge gap between the ceiling and the molding and when installed there is magically a filler strip there. Also awfully brave with the assumption the inside corner is in fact 90 degrees, I did baseboard on an old house and found the inside angle for all 4 corners was larger than 360 degrees, and yeah I double, triple and quadruple checked that number.
makes sense if there's a bow in the walls.
That is why I install one piece at a time and adjust the angle for tight fits.
That’s why real trim carpenters own a coping saw. Lost all respect for him as a carpenter when he didn’t even mention coping inside corners as an option- let alone the far superior way to install it!
Good eye. Funny how it wasn’t even mentioned in the video.
The homeowner sounds like a curator at a museum.
Nice work
Make sure you glue your miter joints. Tom probably did off camera but they will separate over time if you don’t.
The filler at the top was just caulk. Tom said "looks good from my house"
Jamie Buxton that what he said?
Tommy did a nice job as usual...but the first step is: if you want to put crown molding on your cabinets...choose different cabinets and make your life a lot easier.
I wish I could hire this guy!👏
Can anyone tell me where to purchase kitchen cabinet 2" crown molding from a 1998 installation? I cannot find the same design or 2" molding at Lowes or Home Depot and apparently styles have changed. All that's carried at these stores now is generally 3" or more.
How many volts is the saw?
My problem is that I can't find any 5/4 stock. I guess I will have to find something close to a 2x2 and cut it to size. All I have where I live is Home Depot and Lowes. These cabinets are almost exactly the same as mine.
8:05 Wow either that ceiling is bowing down or that wall is bowing out. Interesting there's no mention to that filler piece.
You can see that they just left it like that at 8:26 ... Not sure what's happening here?
edit: You can also see that there is a large gap still at the "finished" reveal. 10:01
Caulk will fix that. 😉
wonderful job.
Nice job.
I like using hot glue behind the miter to hold it fast.
Tommy is Mozart of all carpentry!
You can do that with the ceiling is level and even,,if not it not looking good
Imagine smearing a glued up block of wood to Festool mitre saw
I glue wood to my saw all the time but I put masking tape down first to protect the saw surface and easly remove the wood once I'm done
I have two questions I hope that you'll see.
1. What gauge nails did you use?
2. If you have sufficient space above the doors, do you need to add backer, or can you nail into the cabinet?
Do you notch the stile? Or leave a gap or what?
Yea, I think he could have left his front milled piece even with the side of the cabinet and put the crown on top of the stiles.
There was a whole lot of work they just pretended was not there. The space on the sides between the cabinet and the molding (seen @6:48) was filled with a painted piece of wood (you can see @6:55) and the uneven ceiling height is filled with another filler (see @815). Neither of these were addressed in this presentation..☹️
Looked really good. Nice!
How come his nail gun is so quiet? Mine sounds like I’m shooting someone next door, and it’s cordless!
My guess would be that in reality it isn't that quiet. There was probably some post processing done to reduce the volume of the brad nailer.
It’s a pin nailer running small, short nails and with the compressor set to low psi. Trim is usually very soft and doesn’t require long, thick, high compression fired nails.
Tom you made it look so easy I have been doing remodeling for over 18 years and still not good when it comes to crown molding.
I wish I had the tools to do this myself
Great job!!!