Land Rover clutch master cylinder repair Part 2 Setting up the new cylinder
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- Опубліковано 8 сер 2018
- / britrest
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If you have a Defender/Tdi problem and do not know how to fix it, drop me a line! Maybe I can help!
britrest@britrest.com - Авто та транспорт
Brilliant video! Vid 1 and 2 walked me through the entire job. I enjoy working with my hands and the feeling of accomplishment . Thank you very much!
Just finished replacing everything from the master to the slave on my left hand drive 110, and had the pedal box sandblasted, all thanks to you sharing your knowledge with us. Now just need to get the play just right and I'm done. Thank you!
Well done Alex!
one of the best explination i have seen - thx so much for sharing
Where is part one for this video? I'm having this same problem right now. Just would like to say thanks tho, your videos are a life savers
Done the whole job with the pedal in the car👌🏻 mad man
Brave man!
Thanks for this video. Just changed my defenders master cylinder in Belize...
Glad it helped
@Britannica Restorations Ltd
Hi Mike.
This was my job of today on the Disco 1
Man oh man, that clevis pin is a pain in the backside.
Other than that, it went smoothly, primed the master on the bench before fitting and then bleeded nicely with a very large syringe pulling the air until a steady stream of fluid exited the slave plus a bit of gravity for good measure.
In the end got a very good firm pedal and off to the road.
The knowledge obtained from your videos was essential.
Thanks
Excellent!
Lucas, Girling, GKN and TRW are all brands of the same company, so it is an OEM part. :) I'm not sure, but I think the aluminium gasket you're missing is just to prevent the master cylinder from electrolytic corrosion from being in contact with the steel pedal box. A decent smear of grease will work well enough.
Great video, Iv had some issues with my master cylinder, I got a new shitpart (britpart) one and fitted it but the piston inside was jammed, after taking it in bits, the little shaft that goes in the back of piston was rusted solid! So I stripped the old one, made one good out of two 👍 going to fit it shortly
Not seen a new one rusted up - first time for everything I suppose!
@@BritannicaRestorations very true, first for me too, one question, would you replace the old original master to slave pipe with copper or would you use braided hose?
Good idea to drill a hole in the back to get a 1/2 inch socket in to adjust that play instead of using a half inch ratchet spanner.
Informative video, thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Could you provide the link the pt 1. Cheers! And Thanks for the great insight!
I've Just watched your video on clutch master repair, whilst doing my own clutch on my 2.5td, can I just say, top man! 👍 I find your videos very helpful as I am totally rebuilding mine and you have come in very handy! Keep up the good work!! thanks 👍
Thanks Paul!
Mike
Thanks for this video. It is timely! I have sent a video request via your website. Cheers!
Send it here
britrest@britrest.com
I had to disable the website comments I was getting 80 spams per day!
Mike
It is asking me to login... My request is to have something on diagnosing fuel tank senders and fuel gauges. Also, how to remove an old fuel sender unit and replace it without ending up with a leaky tank. My defender is a 110 2.5 na diesel. I really appreciate these videos! Thanks
Ha! Just did one two weeks ago but was to busy to film!
I will put it in the to do box - I may be able to rig up a simple rig this weekend to show you how it works and how to diagnose
Britannica Restorations Ltd Thanks
Don't forget to shim up the slave for correct biting point (most common overlook/error)
And the mounting bolt holes are eccentric in order for perfect push rod alignment. Otherwise it wears out the bore. When the brake fluid goes black, this is a tell tale sign it's not running "true"
Castrol red rubber grease inside the slave too behind the gaiter o otherwise it will seize rusty.
Hey man, how do you correctly shim up the slave? Ive only heard of that being done on the series vehicles and not defenders but what do I know haha
@@williamchartouni3078 clutch biting point preferences. You can buy shims from uk or make your own
Loving your videos mate. Same process for a Puma 2.2 I assume.
Had the master (I used the LOF power MC) fitted and bled by my local mechanic, but he’s botched the adjustment, as well as played around with the pedal stop screw. Any tips for adjust the master cylinder rod bolts as well as the pedal stop bolt while they are all in the car.
Thanks
Oscar from down under
You may find this page interesting
www.lrukforums.com/threads/clutch-pedal-boxes.257189/
Thanks mate. Bloody legend
Hi, you can actually change the master cylinder in situ without removing the pedal or touching the brake assembly if you have a pre-300tdi and get access via the air-intake. It is a bit fiddly but not that hard thanks to the side access. :-)
Dietmar Winkler sounds like you should consider doing a video too. From Mike video sounds like reinstall is a pain.
Well I really hope I don't have to do it again soon :-) But you can get some inspiration from ua-cam.com/video/pdIAzMQabFQ/v-deo.html though he did not use the additional access (though he actually could have done so).
10:30 adding too much free play and a high pedal causes troubles... What are the troubles?
I just replaced a series pedal box with the more nodern central spring version and it has a high pedal and amount of freeplay.
Read a tip to drill a hole behind rear bolt on push rod to make adjustment easier (is that a good method).
What anti-sieze is it you use? Didn't look like the standard copper slip stuff.
it is Aluminium based - works the same - no difference as far as I can see
Mike
Thans Mike for sharing the video, you mention DOT3 but everywhere include the Land Rover workshop manual it says DOT4. Is there something I missed?
DOT4 has a slightly higher boiling point - not applicable for the clutch!
@@BritannicaRestorations But it wan't make damage (dot4) right? This way I am keeping one kind of dot... 🙃
Hi Mike, placed a new clutch (LOF), slave and mastercilinder (TWI), problem is that I have to put the pedal really deep to be able to change gear. I think I bleeded it well.. but I saw this video too late and didn't prime the new cilinder..what could be the problem? (TD5 90 1999)
Could be - or the rod adjustment is wrong
@@BritannicaRestorations Thanks, that's what it was, I copied the old adjustment.. now it's perfect!
Hi, I have a doubt: is the master cylinder and the slave the same for the LT77 and R380?
same
@@BritannicaRestorations 🤜🤛👍
6:29
Can you bleed it from the top valve?
From the connection on the top of the cylinder? NoMike
Iv tried looking for the part number any one got it
STC500100
Britannica Restorations Ltd
Thanks mate
why not DOT4?
DOT 3 fluid typically has a boiling point of 205°C, whereas DOT 4 fluid has a slightly higher average boiling point of 230°C
Not really sure how fast you change gear!
Lol!
@@BritannicaRestorations can be fast, but perhaps not that fast.
Trying to standardise onDOT4.
Any issues with DOT 5, I hear it can cause issues with some seals?
I have seen the purple stuff leak
PLEASE can you alter your Thanks to say Patrons? Sorry for being pedantic but while your videos are great guides, spelling is just as important today. If you are fussy enough to get the right play in a pedal, it looks better if the correct spelling is used at all times.
That's because they are Patreons
www.patreon.com
Maybe you should give it a go?
Mike