Land Rover hydraulic clutch failure. No leaks. What could it be?
Вставка
- Опубліковано 7 сер 2018
- / britrest
www.paypal.me/britrest2018
Your support is appreciated!
If you have a Defender/Tdi problem and do not know how to fix it, drop me a line! Maybe I can help!
britrest@britrest.com - Авто та транспорт
Thank you 👍 very helpful
Mike, this is exactly the issue I have as per my other message. Thanks.
Quite common - get a TRW one
@@BritannicaRestorations its on order : )
Little tips not boring.. great job on the videos. Parts quality is an issue ! Becomes expensive when have to do the job again within months.
Thanks!
Mike
Ratchet spanners really are the greatest invention ever aren't they! I'm only a DIY mechanic (not even that really!) but they're invaluable.
You can even get open ended ratchet spanners now - I have some but not used them in anger yet
They don't look very strong..
Mike
Brilliant as always Mike - thanks for sharing your expertise in such an informative and entertaining way!
Thanks Jonathan
lesson form this is not to fit cheap Chinese seals or cylinders!
Mike
sorry to be offtopic but does someone know a way to log back into an instagram account..?
I was stupid forgot the login password. I love any assistance you can offer me
@Rex Juelz instablaster =)
@Justice Adriel thanks so much for your reply. I found the site thru google and I'm trying it out now.
Seems to take quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Justice Adriel it did the trick and I finally got access to my account again. I am so happy:D
Thanks so much, you saved my account :D
niiiiice man!! thank for this video
Glad you liked it!
Britpart quality is highly variable. They do have some good components like CV joints and alternators, but most of their stuff is woeful. Their worst products are their hydraulic cylinders, brakes and clutch alike. They have porous castings, frequently still with lots of swarf in the bores, and the seals are uneven. The aluminium is very low quality and corrodes in the bores and unions very quickly. I consider their brake parts plain dangerous.
There is another issue that affects Defenders and SIIIs when working on clutch hydraulics. The slave tends to sit union end low if parked on level ground, trapping air behind the piston. Elevating the front of the vehicle to ensure that all the air in the slave is against the inside of the bleed port works wonders.
Great video as always! I'm currently trying to figure out why my clutch doesn't disengage. It seems to kinda disengage half-way then starts to engage again when fully depressed. When it did work it was intermittent failing when been sat on a slope for a while. Have replaced master and reused old slave with new rubber but still no difference. Does this sound like air or faulty cylinders?
Could be a bad master cylinder - The recent TRW ones are made better.
If you clamp the flexible hose, you can test the master cylinder - it should give a rock hard pedal
So far these land rovers are a real pain to work on because you know, british engineeering lmao
Also they are over 30 years old
So just got the same issue today out in the woods on my 97 tdi. But it´s had a TRW one in it that got replaced in 2016 but no marks on the outer rubber and i found that little spring instead of the washer at the non return valve. I wonder if this is a replica with TRW mark on it. Very strange isn´t it. So i´m very curious how the new TRW part would be like. Btw i just removed the outer part of the wing to get it out. Greetings from Germany.
There are many different copies out there - I am just putting together a video or a TRW replacement
Got this job coming up soon for my 88 110 V8 petrol LHD. Going to get a TRW from England - no idea what's in there now (prob Chinese) -. But seems like I have this same issue - no leaks (there were until I did the slave - leaked into bell housing). Now pedal soft for first half of travel, then resistance to floor - clutch works but release point is close to floor. Thought it was air from slave replacement but I actually reverse bled that with a pressure bleeder from below. Pulled cover off master in situ and nuts look fine on shaft. External rubber boot on master looks worn. BIG QUESTION: is removing the LH wing an option versus removing brake cylinder. This job seems fairly straight forward other than getting the box in and out! Great vids BTW!!
I find it easier to pull the brake master - you only have to take the nuts off the master cylinder and move the cylinder out of the way - no need to disconnect pipes - then it is 6 bolts and it is off
Taking the wing of is a pain
Sounds like the seals are shot= TRW are good - make use you use DOT 3 fluid
Mike
Thanks for quick reply! Will take your advice. So does that mean no DOT4 - I bled it with some ATE gold I had lying around - maybe that killed it?
DOT 4 has a higher boiling point and is usually for all round discs -should be ok but bit expensive for a clutch
@@BritannicaRestorations I replaced my factory clutch master (This is a North American Spec LHD V8 90) with a TRW replacement. It has failed in less than 5K miles. Same issue as in the posted video, no leaking fluid, clutch very light, and returns when released, but does not disengage the clutch, and the fluid is that gray graphite like slurry. Really not looking forward to the major pain in the Butt job of removing the pedal tower from the truck again, worst part of the job by far. Going to try the Dorman Cast Iron Replacement this time, hopefully I won't have to do it again anytime soon..
Would this cause difficulties changing gear?
Pedal issues same as yours and very difficult to engage 1st and 2nd.
No prior symptoms or warnings, it happened instantly.
Yes it will cause all sorts of problems
Hi I’m hoping I get a reply from you Mike even though this video was posted a while ago, I’ve got a land rover 110 with the exact same problem where my clutch is extremely soft to press, I checked my master cylinder and all the seals are in good nick and are genuine Girling parts. What else could it be? I read in the comments it could be air in the system? How would I go about removing that air?
Do you have any pressure at all?
Britannica Restorations Ltd none
What engine and gearbox do you have ?
Britannica Restorations Ltd petrol , thinks it is a 2.2
Pretty easy to bleed and you need only a 7/16 spanner - make sure the reservoir is full - it would be handy of you had someone to top up the cylinder while you open the bleed screw on the slave cylinder.
Open the bleed screw and let the fluid come out and top up at the same time - when the fluid is flowing with no bubbles then nip up the screw and you are done
My clutch won't go down at all put new sc and mc bleed and pedal still won't go down.what could this be?thanks.
Sounds like the adjustment is all wrong - did the pedal go down when you fitted the master cylinder?
Hi am new to your channel. Got a Landrover 1995, 2.5 300tdi. Changed the clutch fork and did the modification. New clutch cylinder, nuw master cylinder, new ruber pipeline. The clutch pedal goes flat now and a gain to the floor, no resistance. I lift it up with my foot while driving then it goes hard and i can change gears, this happens now and again. Any advice. Gary from Cape town ZA.
It sounds like air in the system - but I have a feeling the adjustment may be wrong
But it could be the same issue as in the video - the seal on the end - could be bad or has dirt under the seal
Who's make of parts did you use?
Mike
Britannica Restorations Ltd Hi Mike, i get the parts from landy parts 4 africa in durban South Africa. I think they use Britpart in the Uk and other companies, not so sure who else. Lucas parts from the UK are expensive ,that is why we buy cheaper parts.
Quickest way to test if your master cylinder is done, is to make sure there is no air in the system and clamp the flexible hose.
Test the pedal with your hand - the pedal should be rock hard - if not - master cylinder
Mike
Britannica Restorations Ltd . Ok Mike will try it. Thanks Gary
i may of missed it but what camera do use to film thiese video's
David
In the past I used my camera phone, the I got a Gopro Hero (too wide angle and poor sound in the original case) then a Gitup - like a Gopro but narrow angle - poor sound - AND change the battery - lose all the settings!
Now I use a Canon Vixia R800 which I like as it fits on my tripod without adaptors and has a bigger screen I can see
At the moment I only film at quite low resolution (17Mbps) as I cannot upload that fast, but it will go to 35Mbps
Bit of an expensive learning curve!
Mike
Mine is behaving in exactly the same way. Not a drop of oil leaking any where and the pedal goes down without any resistance what so ever.
I took the Master cylinder out, it's the same type as yours. But everything seems to be OK. No chipping on the end plastic piece, or on the rubber seal.
I'm gonna try to buy a new Master cylinder , but would you have any idea what might be wrong?
Has to be the master - if it was the slave there would be oil all over the floor
5:33 I have Teeth like that lol.
Why oh why, do garages use Chinese rubbish? It's cheap yes, but reliable, NO! Use items 'Made in England' or 'USA' where the correct grades of materials are used in manufacture. Girling for brakes and Lucas for electrics! Using Chinese stuff is just false economy, it's cheap because it's crap! Great video :-) My master is weeping, little fluid drips on my left foot when left overnight so on with the job. p.s I'm using Girling!!!
Sadly a lot of brand name parts are now made in China - a real gamble with parts now
@@BritannicaRestorations it should be the law that the country of manufacture be printed on the packaging front picture, so buyers can see. Just fitted a Girling brake master to replace the inferior failed Chinese one on my Landy. Plastic thing had broken on the plunger, the stop screw was missing so the extra travel had caused the damage though.