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@@lllrpgzlll7037 I agree, it would be easier but it doesn’t teach the skill of trowel control as effectively.

@@saintetienne755 there are many factors that go into quoting for work that it’s pointless me giving you m2 price because without seeing the job my opinion doesn’t matter. You’d be best to get a local builder to quote because different factors such as access, a builders overheads, how busy someone is etc, all affects the price.

@@BerkleyBuilds thank you

@@damnwankers you’ll need to use a lime mortar to allow that type of wall to breath because it’ll be a solid wall and not a cavity construction. The lime replaces the cement in the mix. With your large holes you can either insert a new brick or if it’s really bad, replace a whole section.

@@stevemcilroy.62 Hey! Glad you found the video helpful. Yes, treat your hedge the same as a tree and find out what sort of hedge it is. You can do this using the Picture This App (it’s free) to identify it. Then speak with your building inspector to advise you on foundation depths before you start digging. If you need more assistance, learn how I can support you more through ProjectWise by visiting beprojectwise.co.uk I hope your build goes well

@@BerkleyBuildsThank you Ben. New subscriber 👍

Sure thing I can do that. Thanks for the video suggestion 👍🏻 you might have to wait till after the summer because I’m travelling and also moving back to the UK after living in South East Asia for 2yrs. Does mean I can bring you guys more practical videos which I’m excited about 😀

@@BerkleyBuilds nice one mate enjoy 😊

Fair play! Well done for giving it a go. Take it slow and keep it neat, you’ll be just fine.

I’m pleased you found the video useful. The only difference is that weatherstruck is more efficient at getting water away from the wall when compared with bucket handle. Both methods are more than acceptable and it just depends what you’re trying to match along with the look you’re trying to achieve.

Thanks Dave, I never did like using hosepipe I always preferred the rogger but they do wear out. Technically there’s no right or wrong way to start, perp or bed joint however, it’s just widely accepted that prep first is how it’s done, and I agree. As the video was for demonstration purposes I felt showing the bed joint first would be easier for beginners as they often find it hard to keep muck on the trowel when they turn it to do the perps.

@@BerkleyBuilds no worries mate any help for those who dont know how is allways appreciated dont have to tell anyone about how stupud us tradies are charging now is IMHO a rippoff they should be ashamed of themselves just my 2 bobs.............

A great question however, that’s not a straight forward answer. It all depends which grade of Celotex you have because they’re not all made equal. I suggest asking Celotex directly for a definitive answer.

Sorry to hear your dad’s now passed. If it’s a small area give it a go yourself!

It could have been done with a piping bag or gun. A mortar gun would be my normal go to choice however, my decision not to use that was to demonstrate trowel technique.

Hi. From your description I understand you’ve had a pitch roof re-done with a new breathable membrane? You need insulation in the loft, 400mm of loft roll will do the trick. This is something you can do yourself by rolling one layer out then rolling the second layer at 90 degrees to the first. If you need further support for your project or you need building regulation advice, visit beprojectwise.co.uk and learn how we can support you.

I’m not sure where you’ve been taught that half round is wrong because you’re incorrect, it’s more than acceptable. Due to the curve of the half round this means no ledge is formed and water runs off. I disagree with your other statement too about having the ratio 2:1 I’d argue you’re wrong because you never want to make the mortar stronger than the brick. I’m a building inspector so I know what I’m talking about.

Thanks Clive, that’s helpful insight for others however, I must correct you. Your assumption of the age of the property was incorrect. I live in the area where this house was built and I’ve personally met the bricklayers who built the house, who confirmed the mortar was in fact cement based. However, I do agree with everything else you said as lime mortar should always be used where the existing mortar is lime.

@@BerkleyBuilds Thank you for getting back. My assumption on the age of the house was made from the very limited view I saw that implied to me that it was either inter-war years or immediately post war house. My point was not to use sand/cement mortar pointing on a wall built with lime mortar, as too often happens.

@@clivewilliams3661 I can understand how you made that assumption, I questioned it myself hence the conversation with the original brickies. Yeah, I understood your point and as a building inspector I see it happen a lot.

How do you figure, I’d be interested to hear why you think that?

@@BerkleyBuilds ok, first point is who learnt you to use a chisel like that ? so I am old school and would never use a grinder to open the joints up for obvious reasons, have you actually watched yourself in this video doing your own pointing ? your all over the place with that pointing trowel, if a foreman had seen me on site doing it like you I wouldn't have been on site for long, sorry but true.

@@breadring the difference is I’m not old school, I’m new school and I wasn’t learnt, I was taught. It’s more than acceptable to use a grinder, it even speeds up the process. So long as the end result is quality then it doesn’t matter about someone’s technique. Thanks for commenting, I hope I can make a video you approve of next time 👍🏻 If you have any suggestions let me know.

@@BerkleyBuilds I recon I could chisel out a square meter of old motar faster than you could grind it out, with the bonus of it being less messy and don't have to get covered in dust or have to breath in that dust, if your self employed then no technique doesn't matter if your happy to lose money, I would say an employer wouldn't be to happy if a 2 day job took 5 days because of bad technique.

@@breadring that would be a very interesting challenge and I agree a grinder is messier! Thanks for slating my technique, you know how to add value. I believe my technique is fine because you’re the first to tell me otherwise and I’ll look forward to the tips in your masterclass if you’re willing to give me one 👍🏻

You’re welcome, I’m pleased you found it useful.

Thanks Scott 👍🏻

Hi Bob, no need to shout mate no one can hear you. I appreciate your input and opinion, you really added value. I agree, it’s certainly not the fastest way to point and I wouldn’t do it for efficiency but bear in mind the nature of the video. It’s for those with no experience and yes after watching the video someone could go ahead and repoint a small section of wall which is what the video is intended for. For someone to get faster at repointing they must first learn how to handle a trowel and I feel this gives them the confidence to do that and as someone who sounds like he has some bricklaying experience I would assume you understand that.

@@BerkleyBuilds BLAH BLAH BLAH,WHO IS SHOUTING - YOU.

Hi Robert, what do your drawings say? Polystyrene doesn’t offer very good U-value ratings so I’d suggest you’d want 100mm between your internal stud work to meet compliance. That’s only my suggestion with the limited info I’ve got and without looking at your drawings. All the best with your garage conversion

@@BerkleyBuilds hey! Thank you for the quick reply! Unfortunately I don't have any drawings , The house was built in 1997.

@@robertfulop4213 I see, then I would use 100mm as a bench mark and speak with your appointed building inspector to see what he is happy to sign off because ultimately he’ll have final say.

Thanks! I’ve filmed a loft conversion video but it’s not edited yet. Essentially the same rules will apply because it’s a habitable space. I suggest using the vaulted ceiling detail with the PIR between and below the rafters.

Hi, I’m short no. You need a 50mm air gap to allow air to circulate correctly. It is possible to put two PIR boards together, but you need the right air gap. For your project I’d suggest 150mm between with 25mm under.

That was building sand. Sharp sand will also make mortar but you don’t use it to lay bricks

You’re welcome! If there’s a video you’d like me to cover let me know and I’ll do my best to film it.

Thanks Ian! You don’t get many single brick properties. Yes, single skin but these are often 9 inch thick. In terms of repairs It all depends on the extent of repair needed. Chopping out a few bricks is more than fine if they’ve have blown faces. Equally repointing the wall if the mortar is crumbling is also possible. What state is your wall in?

@@BerkleyBuilds Some of the bricks facing has cracked / fallen away and I don't want to remove the single bricks as this may mean I have to replaster. How about a video on repairing bricks where the facing is shot?

@@ianw2955 sadly that type of video isn’t one I’m in a position to film currently as I don’t have a wall with blown bricks that I could film. However, if you don’t want to chop out a brick completely because of the fear of damaging plaster inside, then I would suggest an alternative solutions. Provided it’s only a few bricks you could create some brick slips to replace the face of the brick only, while keeping the back of the brick in one piece.

Of course you use an angle grinder to take out mortar joints. It’s not the Stone Age anymore, put your hammer and chisel down, let me teach you the ways of the Jedi 🤣

I’d suggest 4:1. Depending on how old the property is you might need to use a lime mortar. Check out my repointing video if you need some tips. All the best with repointing your garage.

You shouldn’t need to dismantle the hatch. I suggest getting into the loft space and shutting the hatch, this should allow you to repair the hinge in its closed position when tension is not on it.

Thank you so much for your reply, it is very much appreciated. We will have to manipulate it a little to close the hatch as it is slightly off alignment with the loose bolt but could prop it from the bottom and hopefully be ok.

Thanks I appreciate it. Great question! It depends what tree it is and the ground conditions. If it’s one of the 5 worst (eucalyptus Hawthorn, Leylandi, Poplar, Oak) then the inspector might take it into consideration but every situation is different and can only be judged on site with all the facts. I hope this helped

I’m pleased you felt confident after watching the video. Yes, the small patch I did was purely for demonstration purposes. I would normally rake out the whole area I wanted to repoint and clean down, I would then work in 1m square sections starting from the highest bit and working down. I recommend you work in a smaller area you feel comfortable with. All the best with repointing 👍🏻

@@BerkleyBuilds Thank you, I will be following your channel from now on. x

Thanks Rachel, pleased you found it helpful. To trim up the timber at 2:11 I used some 5x100 screws and an impact driver to get them in.

Sadly i don’t sorry, I haven’t needed to do any rendering yet. It’s definitely something a novice can do for sure! All the best with patching your render, any questions drop a comment 👍🏻

That sounds like a great project. You may need to use a lime mortar opposed to a cement based mortar, best to double check before you start. All the best with repointing the chimney

A great question! However, one that I can’t directly answer from the information you’ve given me. Google isn’t wrong as those ratios are used but for different things. 3:1 is often used in foundations, where as 4:1 is used for external skins and and 5:1 used for internal walls. With all that said I don’t know the age of your property and that affects the answer because you may need to use a lime mortar if it’s an older property. You shouldn’t use a cement based mortar when the original is lime because the cement stops the property breathing. I would suggest a 4:1 sand:cement (do some small trial mixes if you want to colour match) and if it’s lime 4:1 sand:lime. Hope that’s helpful

Thanks yes thats helps. Its a 60s built house, no lime. Im going to point the whole front side so think ill go with 4-1.

@@TheSirbrown Sounds like a plan! I forgot to mention about additives, there are a number on the market. I like the liquid ones as you can add it to your water to get the best result. Liquid mortar plasticisers can be found at any builders merchant, Screwfix or Toolstation. All the best with repointing