Another great video! You came and repointed my garage wall a few weeks ago and you'll be pleased to know that having watched you in person - and your videos - I successfully repointed a couple of courses of bricks this week and made a much better job of it than my last attempt!
Exactly what I was looking for. Recently found that some pals from the Wild West used Sharp sand on the brickwork for the external walls. The pointing has multiple cracks and the mortar is crumbling like a 8:1 rate lookalike, causing further damp issues inside the house. Thanks for posting the video.
Really useful practical demonstration on repointing a modern wall. If any would-be pointers require reliable technical guidance on repointing, do take the trouble to read the Building Research Establishment publication “Good Repair Guide No 24” (Repointing external brickwork walls) as this provides authoritative information, including clarifying suitable mortar mixes, warnings of when worn pointing affects structural integrity and the importance of using lime pointing on old solid walls.
Really clear thank you. Any advice please on mortar mix proportions, additives etc and whether you should coat existing old mortar with pva and allow to dry to aid adhesion please?
Your very welcome, I will do a video on mortar mixes and matching mortars shortly. No need to pva the wall prior to pointing just a moistened joint is sufficient. Keep the mortar moist to prevent from drying to quick and cover.
The dust extractor is a Hilti vc 40 u and the angle grinder is a dcg125s with a extraction hood for cutting. You can hire the vacuums from travis Perkins or some tool hire companies but you may need to purchase the grinder and extractor hood or just the extractor hood.
Great video on grinding out. Wondered if you have ever tried the rotary auger mortar take bits. Guess they would work well at the ends of the perps, but assume the bits aren't going to last long, so perhaps ok for small amounts.
Nice video,one question. If you’re telling us that you get 25 m out of one of those blades and if that garage is 10 m long, roughly how many blades are you gonna go through? A dozen ? 20 ? I know you have no choice on how many blades but how much are the blades and how many did you really go through?
So since this video we have our very own blade that we use that cuts in excess of 80m2 which outshines the blade in the video by a long shot. It’s called the va pro mortar raking blade.
Are you matching to an existing mortar already in place or are you doing weather struck on the whole property? Reason being some people do it slightly different, maybe send me a picture via email if you want? and I can do a video demonstrating that particular finish for you.
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington it's the side and front of a bungalow.👍it looks like someome attempted to repoint it at some stage in a whether struck stile but not very well hahaha. I was looking at Rob songers videos on repointing an was thinking of doing it in a similar way. was just curious seeing your way of doing it
Thanks for the reply. Will need to come out as even if the old mortar was hard it would stick out like a sore thumb. Will avoid grinder and manually take it out, avoiding the DPC!
Do Addax mortar raking blades go under the name of Timco? As having trouble finding Addax blades. Also with 10-12mm high joints which would be best 8mm or 10mm thick. One last thing how much should you pay for a high quality Timco/Addax blade. Cheers
Yes that’s right only companies with a timco account can sell these blades, if you go with a 10mm blade it will give you that much more life and also when using dust extraction it helps not having to do several passes on the same joint. Obviously the thinner the joint the thinner the blade. Keep hold of the thin blades if they aren’t completely worn as they come in handy on hard mortars. 👍 I think it’s around £30 plus vat
If a chimney is leaking and the mortar looks OK is it because water is being absorbed through the brick? And is there ever a possibility where a sealer or water repellant is recommended?
It is usually the moisture being absorbed by the brick but due to a inadequate flashing as generally they are only set in by 20mm. Check the flashing first, you could consider a masonry cream but solve the problem first and you shouldn’t need to.
Give it a good hose down after and concentrate not only about removing the dust from the joint but spray the hose on full at the brick to get in those dips of the brick. If the hose doesn’t work try agitating with a fairly stiff brush or last resort a jet wash.
I have a two story, circa 1900 brick building, soft lime based mortar, and am having it repointed. The mason wants to start at the top and work downward. My intuition is to do the opposite and start at the bottom and work up. Opinion? Thanks.
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington Thank you. I understand that aspect. I am more concerned with incrementally adding more weight from the new mortar above on the lower bricks that have weakened mortar, often a reason for lower mortar deterioration to begin with. If this is not likely the case, I am good with top to bottom.
Hi Hewitt, this would only be an issue if all of the bricks were on a full wet bed of mortar but as it’s only 25% of the mortar being pointed and 75% already set hard for some time now, no movement will occur. Hope this helps.
Hey mate I'm starting a job soon it's a block wall I need to repoint the block mortar joint I have the same set up as u. I have a double segmented blade on it. Will that rip like a champ threw the block mortar joints that I need to repoint.??? I think it would what do u yhink
Hi Jamie, it really depends on the quality of the blade, there is such a vast difference between blades over here. It all depends on the strength of the mortar and the blade. I would get a few different blades to see what performs best under different mortar strengths.
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington hey mate quick story I just let go of a $8700 USA dollar job due to the lack of communication between the owner and I. The owner is 90 but called for my service on a commercial building he owns long story short he let me go threw a middle man instead of him. I pulled permit the day before I was going to start notified the painter which was the middle man everything was threw a text if he got back to u I told him I'd start tomorrow with owners blessing called owner 3 times within 6 hours no answer I told them both find someone else. Would u put up with that I'm sure u wouldn't. It made me sick to let that go but I felt it wasn't a solid job meaning if there acting like this now who's to say is get payed when I'm done if he's not answering my phone call. What do u think was I wrong
Hi Jamie, It’s a lot to lose but if the client isn’t returning calls etc then it would ring alarm bells for me also. Sounds as though you done the right thing as you wouldn’t want to complete the job and not get paid. If they really want you to do it then I’m sure they will call you back.
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington I think I did the right thing and let it go. It was a lesson to them u won't find a young lady that is on time and pulls permit and is good at communication. Didn't sit well with me they'll be many others.
Is that a 5 inch diamond blade. I have a hilti set up with 5 inch angle grinder and 5 inch sandwich blade double blade works awesome so u don't have to go back and recess the brick mortar with a brick Hammer and chisel
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington I do brick pointing stone pointing, waterproofing, stuff like that and do brick rehabilitation and small block work just started buisness last year it's tough but I'm staying alive
Hey mate sorry to bother you but I just bid a block wall 40feet x 11 feet high at 440 square feet of cutting and repointing the block wall mortar joints. I bid it at $20 a square foot equalling $8800 is that fair for that amount of work and time and labor
Nice video mate. Very helpful. I’m just trying to decide weather or not to do some for myself or get someone in. It’s hard mortar and heather bricks. I know it’s difficult and hard to give to much away, but what’s should it cost to get someone in. 50sq meters bucket handle Isle of Wight Hampshire Ian
Hi Ian, if it’s a hard mortar it can be quite tedious even to a professional. With hard mortar a 10mm thick blade will be hard going, in this instance I would use a thin mortar raking blade as it cuts through quicker and easier. Price wise generally goes from £20-£60 a square metre. Hope this helps 👍
Yes definitely, it just means you’ll empty it slightly more, I don’t use bags, just empty it straight into a large gorilla tub and then into a rubble sack, but up to you.
I'm sorry for being a pain but how to u calculate how much sand and cement needed I know how to work it out fir pre bagged mortar just not sand and cement
Put it this way Jamie $1600 seems a bit expensive even with the conversion for replacing 10 bricks but if you can get it and the customers are happy, then retire early 🤣
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington that's what I say. I didn't even want the job it's 10 spalled bricks on 4 brick risers I said labor and materials included 1,600 the customer said can u start Monday? Lol like u said if u can get it can't get mad at me for getting it lol. Restoration is better than building meaning brick and stone pointing waterproofing, etc
Another great video! You came and repointed my garage wall a few weeks ago and you'll be pleased to know that having watched you in person - and your videos - I successfully repointed a couple of courses of bricks this week and made a much better job of it than my last attempt!
Thanks Tim! That’s great news, it’s easy isn’t it 😜
Exactly what I was looking for. Recently found that some pals from the Wild West used Sharp sand on the brickwork for the external walls. The pointing has multiple cracks and the mortar is crumbling like a 8:1 rate lookalike, causing further damp issues inside the house. Thanks for posting the video.
your videos are the best I've seen on this topic
Thank you for your kind words 👍
Best type of work in the world
good for you mate! thanks for showing your trade, After doing building work for a while, I just get enough of pointing
very clear and detailed demonstration
Thanks for a very informative video. What sort of square metres would you expect to do in a 8 hr day? Thanks
Depending on how soft it is, I would aim for anything between 25 & 50 sqm
Really useful practical demonstration on repointing a modern wall. If any would-be pointers require reliable technical guidance on repointing, do take the trouble to read the Building Research Establishment publication “Good Repair Guide No 24” (Repointing external brickwork walls) as this provides authoritative information, including clarifying suitable mortar mixes, warnings of when worn pointing affects structural integrity and the importance of using lime pointing on old solid walls.
Many thanks for your thoughts.
I need to make the swap to an extraction system, tired of the half day clean up after ...bloody dust!
It’s well worth it, no more sludge, cleaning and annoying neighbours 👍
Great Video!
Great video, best on youtube
Thanks Paul, I’ll be shooting some more videos once the weather warms up a bit. 👍
Really clear thank you. Any advice please on mortar mix proportions, additives etc and whether you should coat existing old mortar with pva and allow to dry to aid adhesion please?
Your very welcome, I will do a video on mortar mixes and matching mortars shortly. No need to pva the wall prior to pointing just a moistened joint is sufficient. Keep the mortar moist to prevent from drying to quick and cover.
Do have a read of Building Research Establishment Good Repair Guide No 24 on repointing as it should answer all your questions and more!
Hi. Great video. Do you have any more details about the equipment you are using? Either to buy or hire, the model numbers etc. Thanks!
The dust extractor is a Hilti vc 40 u and the angle grinder is a dcg125s with a extraction hood for cutting. You can hire the vacuums from travis Perkins or some tool hire companies but you may need to purchase the grinder and extractor hood or just the extractor hood.
Never done a repointing job, one day ☝️
Yeah, it’s easy!! Good luck 🤞
Great stuff. Thanks very much
You’re very welcome 👌
Great video on grinding out. Wondered if you have ever tried the rotary auger mortar take bits. Guess they would work well at the ends of the perps, but assume the bits aren't going to last long, so perhaps ok for small amounts.
Yes I have but I didn’t really rate it, like you say maybe ok for small amounts and perp ends.
Good explanation.... well done ... Thank you
Nice video,one question. If you’re telling us that you get 25 m out of one of those blades and if that garage is 10 m long, roughly how many blades are you gonna go through? A dozen ? 20 ? I know you have no choice on how many blades but how much are the blades and how many did you really go through?
So since this video we have our very own blade that we use that cuts in excess of 80m2 which outshines the blade in the video by a long shot. It’s called the va pro mortar raking blade.
@@CoastalWallTiesRustingtonthanks
Very helpful mate thanks 👍👌
Glad I could help 👍
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington have you got a video on whether struck pointing too 👌🤔👍
Are you matching to an existing mortar already in place or are you doing weather struck on the whole property? Reason being some people do it slightly different, maybe send me a picture via email if you want? and I can do a video demonstrating that particular finish for you.
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington it's the side and front of a bungalow.👍it looks like someome attempted to repoint it at some stage in a whether struck stile but not very well hahaha. I was looking at Rob songers videos on repointing an was thinking of doing it in a similar way. was just curious seeing your way of doing it
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington if you send me your email I'll send you a few pics tomorrow if you want mate 👍😉 thans for the reply 👍😀
Any tips for raking out round dpc?
If it’s hard mortar leave it, if soft all I can say is be very careful. Try not to physically touch the dpc, especially when grinding.
Thanks for the reply. Will need to come out as even if the old mortar was hard it would stick out like a sore thumb.
Will avoid grinder and manually take it out, avoiding the DPC!
Do Addax mortar raking blades go under the name of Timco? As having trouble finding Addax blades. Also with 10-12mm high joints which would be best 8mm or 10mm thick.
One last thing how much should you pay for a high quality Timco/Addax blade. Cheers
Yes that’s right only companies with a timco account can sell these blades, if you go with a 10mm blade it will give you that much more life and also when using dust extraction it helps not having to do several passes on the same joint. Obviously the thinner the joint the thinner the blade. Keep hold of the thin blades if they aren’t completely worn as they come in handy on hard mortars. 👍 I think it’s around £30 plus vat
whats best to use on imperial bricks with tight joints, grinder or something else?.cheers.
If it’s a hard cement mortar your removing then I would recommend a diamond cutting blade that’s say 3mm thick or if it’s soft you could use an allsaw
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington 1920s house and you can break it away with your fingertips some what.what about a mortar rake?.thanks👍.
Hello , can you give me the name of the grinder and dust vacuum to see where can I order this ?
Thanks master
This is all Hilti equipment available only through Hilti website. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for your reply man , thanks for sharing wisdom.
If a chimney is leaking and the mortar looks OK is it because water is being absorbed through the brick? And is there ever a possibility where a sealer or water repellant is recommended?
It is usually the moisture being absorbed by the brick but due to a inadequate flashing as generally they are only set in by 20mm. Check the flashing first, you could consider a masonry cream but solve the problem first and you shouldn’t need to.
How do you stop the old ground out mortar dust from staining the face of the bricks, especially rustic faced ones?
Give it a good hose down after and concentrate not only about removing the dust from the joint but spray the hose on full at the brick to get in those dips of the brick. If the hose doesn’t work try agitating with a fairly stiff brush or last resort a jet wash.
I have a two story, circa 1900 brick building, soft lime based mortar, and am having it repointed. The mason wants to start at the top and work downward. My intuition is to do the opposite and start at the bottom and work up. Opinion? Thanks.
Always top to bottom, this is because if you point from the bottom any mortar dropping down will potentially leave crumbs on the newly pointed areas.
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington Thank you. I understand that aspect. I am more concerned with incrementally adding more weight from the new mortar above on the lower bricks that have weakened mortar, often a reason for lower mortar deterioration to begin with. If this is not likely the case, I am good with top to bottom.
Hi Hewitt, this would only be an issue if all of the bricks were on a full wet bed of mortar but as it’s only 25% of the mortar being pointed and 75% already set hard for some time now, no movement will occur.
Hope this helps.
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington Indeed! Thank you so much for your help!
@@hewittmcelroy3711 So you thought your intuition was better than the knowledge and experience of the mason you hired? hahaha
Hey mate I'm starting a job soon it's a block wall I need to repoint the block mortar joint I have the same set up as u. I have a double segmented blade on it. Will that rip like a champ threw the block mortar joints that I need to repoint.??? I think it would what do u yhink
Hi Jamie, it really depends on the quality of the blade, there is such a vast difference between blades over here. It all depends on the strength of the mortar and the blade. I would get a few different blades to see what performs best under different mortar strengths.
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington hey mate quick story I just let go of a $8700 USA dollar job due to the lack of communication between the owner and I. The owner is 90 but called for my service on a commercial building he owns long story short he let me go threw a middle man instead of him. I pulled permit the day before I was going to start notified the painter which was the middle man everything was threw a text if he got back to u I told him I'd start tomorrow with owners blessing called owner 3 times within 6 hours no answer I told them both find someone else. Would u put up with that I'm sure u wouldn't. It made me sick to let that go but I felt it wasn't a solid job meaning if there acting like this now who's to say is get payed when I'm done if he's not answering my phone call. What do u think was I wrong
Hi Jamie,
It’s a lot to lose but if the client isn’t returning calls etc then it would ring alarm bells for me also. Sounds as though you done the right thing as you wouldn’t want to complete the job and not get paid. If they really want you to do it then I’m sure they will call you back.
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington I think I did the right thing and let it go. It was a lesson to them u won't find a young lady that is on time and pulls permit and is good at communication. Didn't sit well with me they'll be many others.
What do you charge per mtre please
Is that a 5 inch diamond blade. I have a hilti set up with 5 inch angle grinder and 5 inch sandwich blade double blade works awesome so u don't have to go back and recess the brick mortar with a brick Hammer and chisel
Hi Jamie, yes a 5” inch diamond blade, are you based in England?
The states mate. I specialize in brick and stone pointing and I make alot of money just doing that
Would be keen to do this in the states, nice climate too! Love all the stone walling and veneers. Where in the states?
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington Rhode island
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington I do brick pointing stone pointing, waterproofing, stuff like that and do brick rehabilitation and small block work just started buisness last year it's tough but I'm staying alive
I wonder what was wrong with those mortar joints that you ground them out.
the client wanted it repointed for aesthetics more than solving a problem.
Hey mate sorry to bother you but I just bid a block wall 40feet x 11 feet high at 440 square feet of cutting and repointing the block wall mortar joints. I bid it at $20 a square foot equalling $8800 is that fair for that amount of work and time and labor
I’d say that sounds fair enough Jamie, have you got the job?
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington got the call I got it
what grinder and dust attachments are those mate?
Hilti 125mm grinder and cutting hood
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington thanks mate! will give it a try!
Hello , what mix would you recommend for repointing bricks from the late 60's.
Thank you
In the late 60’s it was common to use a 6 sand 1 cement and 1 hydrated lime mix.
Nice video mate. Very helpful. I’m just trying to decide weather or not to do some for myself or get someone in. It’s hard mortar and heather bricks. I know it’s difficult and hard to give to much away, but what’s should it cost to get someone in. 50sq meters bucket handle Isle of Wight Hampshire
Ian
Hi Ian, if it’s a hard mortar it can be quite tedious even to a professional. With hard mortar a 10mm thick blade will be hard going, in this instance I would use a thin mortar raking blade as it cuts through quicker and easier. Price wise generally goes from £20-£60 a square metre. Hope this helps 👍
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington how much would you charge for coloured mortar to match brick and lime putty finish per sq
What dust extractor have u got
Hilti 40litre vacuum
Would u say at 30 litre vacuum would be fine
Yes definitely, it just means you’ll empty it slightly more, I don’t use bags, just empty it straight into a large gorilla tub and then into a rubble sack, but up to you.
I'm sorry for being a pain but how to u calculate how much sand and cement needed I know how to work it out fir pre bagged mortar just not sand and cement
Can you please do our walls please
Quality
------------‐--------------- very efficient n effective, you can point faster than they layed 'em .....
it would be somewhat easier if they made the dust extractor hood from see through plastic rather than that red stuff
Dont know why occupier would want repointing done in first place. Existing looks good to me.
Each to their own I guess, but it did make it pop afterwards.
Adam sandler does pointing
where do yoy based mate..
West sussex
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington thank you …I am looking for someone as good as you in north Manchester…
How much in USA dollar 💲 is a job like this worth?
Put it this way Jamie $1600 seems a bit expensive even with the conversion for replacing 10 bricks but if you can get it and the customers are happy, then retire early 🤣
Sorry, realised you were referring to the video. Just over $2000
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington that's what I say. I didn't even want the job it's 10 spalled bricks on 4 brick risers I said labor and materials included 1,600 the customer said can u start Monday? Lol like u said if u can get it can't get mad at me for getting it lol. Restoration is better than building meaning brick and stone pointing waterproofing, etc
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington over 2,000 USA dollars how many square feet is that
645 square feet
Hi mate can you please do a job for me
Pulling it towards is wrong grinder doesn’t make that much dust and get straight cut see what you’re doing turn the brick around if cut like you did
You can do it anyway you like doesn’t make it wrong or right.
Now do it without the Houston Astros cheating for you.
An angle grinder.