Audi 3.0 TFSI V6 Supercharged Oil Change Service + Trying Engine Flush
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- Опубліковано 14 лют 2022
- It’s that time of year again for me to service my 2013 S4, specifically to replace the oil in the 3.0 TFSI Supercharged V6 up front. I thought I’d try something a little different this time though, specifically making use of this, the Liqui Moly Pro-Line Engine Flush. I picked this up for £10 with the notion that I’ll do it this one time at 68,000 miles just to see what it does. My engine isn’t excessively dirty as far as I can tell and has had very good service history and intervals so I’m not worried, but let’s give it a go.
Engine Flush on Amazon (affiliate): locally.link/FsPx
Oil drain pan on Amazon (affiliate): locally.link/prqP
12L version from MachineMart: www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clark...
Car phone mounts on Amazon (affiliate): locally.link/bt75
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At the wheel website: atthewheel.uk
Thank you for sharing, i have a Q7 and the engine is a absolute mystery, thank you for demystifying the process
I change my S5 V6T oil every 6 months, every 12 months I get it done at a garage to preserve the warranty. When it runs out though I will do it myself. Your videos are awesome mate, that engine flush is sketchy though, I’ve heard long term it’s not good for seals etc inside.
Great description 👌
Very interesting video. I have a S5 and now think I'll change my own oil. Can the service interval be reset without VCDS? Cheers
Very good, thanks!
I have an A6 with a 3.0T. Cool video.
How you like it?
We have a 3.0t TSFI supercharged Audi Q7 premium plus, we have to do an oil change soon BUT, I just need to know like does the supercharger need it’s own oil or does it work with the regular engine oil. If the supercharger needs its own oil how would I change it? Is there like a port on it on the top. I see some people need to remove the whole supercharger, I hope I don’t have to do that, our Audi only has 15k miles
Thank you 👍
Thank you
Hi mate how long do you have this car? Is it problem free and does it burn oil?
A little tip for anybody who's planning on doing this themselves. You better be 100% sure you know what you're doing, because you can cause thousands of dollars worth of damage by doing a simple oil change incorrectly.
- Overtightening the oil filter cap can crack the oil filter housing. This will cause a major oil leak.
- Undertightening the oil filter housing cap will cause a oil leak.
- Overtightening the oil drain plug will make it impossible for you to remove it the next time you do an oil change.
-Undertightening the oil drain plug will cause an oil leak.
-Adding too much oil will cause certain parts to explode.
-Adding too little oil will cause overheating and bad performance of your vehicle.
It's very, very important to double and triple check all of these things and to make sure you're putting the right type and amount of oil in your vehicle. Don't ask me how I learned this.
Time out. Can't put additives in that engine it's not worth the possible damage. Also the filter brands ARE different. Less quality could end up with bits of lint in the oil AND people counterfeit these so it's best to get it from dealer. Holler.
How often do you change your oil? I have an A6 C7 with the same engine as your S4. I don't buy the Audi 10,000 mile oil change recommendation. I change my oil every 5,000 miles. I consider it cheap insurance to hopefully reduce the likelihood of future engine problems.
Still have the A6? If so, how is it doing?
@@Follows_Jesus Actually, I traded it in for something else in January.
Ignore any manufacturer recommending a 10,000 oil change. BMW, Audi, Ford, whoever... Ignore them!
They recommend this for 2 reasons:
1) The industry is designing cars to be crap after the warranty expired. This is an engineering design concept known as planned obsolescence so corporations get more of our money. They're not pulling for you and hoping your car lasts 200,000 miles... They ideally want you back in the market on mile 1 after your warranty expires. ALL companies have this mindset. The fact that new washers/dryers only last 5 years now is not a mistake... It's by design.
2) The 10,000 interval is to appease political pressures from environmental organizations. Less oil used = less pressure from them. Unfortunately it leaves the consumers holding the bag.
That said - Can the oil last 10,000 miles? Yes, it can! Just because it can doesn't mean it's smart to do so for a multitude of reasons.
If you go with 5,000 mile oil changes, I'm sure your oil analysis would show high viscosity, a low flash point, low metals, high active TBN, etc etc; but, there are a lot of factors that could sway this in a "not so good direction." The longer the oil is used, the less protection and likelihood of the oil's additives depleting. I'd say it's more important to make sure your motor is TOPPED OFF with oil than anything. These 3.0t's burn/consume a lot of oil; but, it's normal. I'm sure I don't need to explain it; but, not topping off your motor with oil will cause the remaining oil to be consumed faster, dirties it faster with metals and containments which could then collect deposits in tighter tolerance parts of your engine (bearings for example), and all of this could obviously create conditions in which it's potentially not protected at all.
5,000 mile intervals + making sure your motor is reading full (via a dipstick, don't rely on the electronic gauges) is a really safe way to ensure your engine is best protected. I've submitted an oil sample to Blackstone where I did this over an 8,000 interval and everything looked great (I drive a lot of highway when I drive my S4). Basically they said it looks like a sample that's similar to being run for 6,000 miles. NOTE: I did use the CeraTec additive at the start of this oil change; but, they said it wouldn't have greatly affected the outcome. Main point is that those two thoughts used together is a really conservative approach.
Please Help!!! I have a 2013 Audi A7 I hit a opossum last night going about 65 MPH busted my front bumper and it ripped the 3 pin connector out of my coolant pump. I purchased a new 3 pin connector each pin is numbered 1 2 3 but the wires are solid black. I have 3 wires dangling from the harness that goes to the pump the colors are solid RED, solid VIOLET, and RED with a WHITE stripe. Does anyone know what color goes to each specific pin number????? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Where did you get the crush washer
Y’all know.. using an evacuator though the dip stick tube does the same job and you don’t have to get under the car.
Can you (or someone) verify the part number for the dipstick? I have a 2012 A6 C7 3.0 TSFI but everywhere I looked for this part number there seems to be a question of compatibility. Thank you!
06E115611H - but make sure you keep the OEM Plug in as you run the engine, because the dipstick has a plastic tip that can fatigue and break off. You can keep the dipstick in the side compartment in the left of the trunk space (kinda goes behind the wheel well) when you're not using it.
You said, "Nex to no oil consumption for the 12 months". I have a 2010 Audi A6 C6 Avant with a 3.0TFSI engine (213kW), and I pour a liter of oil every 4000km. Is something likely wrong with my engine, and I need to check some key things that can cause this, or do the engines vary that much for the A6 and S4?
I have a A6 C7 2011 3.0 tfsi and i also pour about a liter every 5000-6000km. Seems to be normal. Also depends alot on how aggressive i drive.
I have the same awsome V6 3.0 TFSI engine (F4 C6) which is one the best engines Audi ever have made, in my 2010 saloon. Don't worry about the oil consumption. If you read the cars papers you'll see that even as new oil consumption is something to count on from the beginning. That's the down side of having a high performance engine with 290 hp but on the lus side has it a reasonable low fuel consumption for such engine with also is relible and long lasting (if you have an eye on oil gage ;) which you seem to have :). Every time I leave the car for service the Audi-staff remind and congradulate me for having this engine under the hood. Once, during a vacation, fully packed with 4 passenger wanted to test the top speed in a German Ahtobahn (live in Sweden with highest speed limit of 120 km/h) and it reached 266 km/hour till my girlfriend got scared shouting "we're flying", demanding to slow down....
For anybody attempting to do this themselves, those little ramps that he put under his car, would make it nearly impossible to slide a human body underneath. You're better off getting jacks or at least some rhino ramps.
What about the air filter?
Not connected to oil change
If your oil is darker that means it’s do’in it’s job , some people want there oil to be clean when it comes out , i want mine blacker the better , it means it’s cleaning , not just rolling around in there ….
Oil blackens within 200 miles though. The real way to learn anything about your oil is to do a Blackstone analysis, which I recommend. When I drive my S4, I hit a lot of highway miles. My Leichtlauf started to lose viscosity around the 8,000 mile mark (I ran CeraTec on the change, then added oil regularly) but the report showed I still had a lot of TBN active, so everything looked good and there was no evidence of wear.
a6
Dude, if you just do your service intervals when required you don't need additives... 🙄
1) A lot of these cars are 2nd hand, so who knows what the other owner had done.
2) The service interval is 10,000 miles, and no one with a brain actually supports this. 5,000 miles are ideal, even though the oil may be able to last longer.
3) Additives can serve purposes, even with regular oil changes. Investing in a $20 additive periodically isn't going to make/break your finances or the car. Is it a waste of money? It just depends on the above. Cera Tec helped with reducing audible startup rattle on my 3.0t's timing chains (note: I use Leichtlauf, not Molygen - don't use CeraTec with Molygen)
That oil was filthy...
Time out. Can't put additives in that engine it's not worth the possible damage. Also the filter brands ARE different. Less quality could end up with bits of lint in the oil AND people counterfeit these so it's best to get it from dealer. Holler. 📠
A little tip for anybody who's planning on doing this themselves. You better be 100% sure you know what you're doing, because you can cause thousands of dollars worth of damage by doing a simple oil change incorrectly.
- Overtightening the oil filter cap can crack the oil filter housing. This will cause a major oil leak.
- Undertightening the oil filter housing cap will cause a oil leak.
- Overtightening the oil drain plug will make it impossible for you to remove it the next time you do an oil change.
-Undertightening the oil drain plug will cause an oil leak.
-Adding too much oil will cause certain parts to explode.
-Adding too little oil will cause overheating and bad performance of your vehicle.
It's very, very important to double and triple check all of these things and to make sure you're putting the right type and amount of oil in your vehicle. Don't ask me how I learned this.