Thank you. I had one valve that was slowly leaking water when controller for that valve was off. I took the top off the valve and removed the diaphragm for inspection / cleaning. I found one very small pebble. I flushed and reassembled it. Then, I turned the water on with the controller still in the off position. The valve turned on fully. I searched and found your video. After watching your video and turning the valve on and off from the controller, the valve did shut off. My slow leak has also stopped.
Thanks SpinklerDaddy. I was manually testing two new Orbit 3/4" valves and they kept dibbling after shut off. I followed your advice for checking for debris and found PVC fragments (from up-line cut pipe) underneath the diaphragm. After cleaning them out and reassembling, no worries.
Thank you so much! Your demonstration was perfect. I followed your instruction and cleaned our 5 zone set of valves (all leaking) with a tooth brush after taking them apart. It solved the problem with 1 hour of my time... saving a $1000 replacement proposal by our (former) landscaper/irrigation contractor. One added comment to your instruction could include a suggestion to put a screen on the water source for well water supplied systems (like ours)... can cause sand and mineral buildup in the valve.
Hey....thanks there Sean!!!! I had had a plumber over two years ago, when I first experienced the problem....He removed the solenoid and found a very small chard of a rock in, it....never telling me that the problem could be in the valve...He remedied the problem for a very short time....and then it happened with more of the sprinklers....sheesh....new home owners can be ignorant...thanks again...kudos!! Cathy in Oregon
I have the preassembled 3-valve system, installed with an orbit timer, but valves are not closing when the previous one ends irrigation time, it just keeps going so the pressure in each sector is not optimal. I already tried to cleaned them by opening them but it did no difference...what else could be?
I tried that with the orbit solenoid I bought off amazon but there was no debris etc. in my case the valve stays open unless you give the actual solenoid motor a tap with something like the handle of a screwdriver then it shuts off so when I water I have to run down and tap the solenoid each time which is kinda defeating the purpose of having it. thoughts?
I have a brand new installation with 22 of these. NONE of them shut off ! . All brand new pipes. Someone told me my incoming water pressure is too high , but the main shut-off valves ( anti-siphon type) do work correctly. pissed ...
Hi, what was the outcome? I'm having the same problem with one of my zones. It's not a slow leak... it's running almost full blast. I watched every troubleshooting video and nothing was applicable to my situation. Diaphragm visually looks ok and has no junk around it. Solenoid looks fine and I can hear it turn on/off when activated by the controller. There's no "air release" knob to try on my valve. Sigh.
@ZerothRoundPick I turned off the water and removed the solenoid intending to replace it. I couldn't find a replacement locally so I put it back together and the leak stopped. It hasn't happened since.
@@TomsBackyardWorkshop Thank you for the reply! It's great when something simple makes a problem go away as mysteriously as it came. Just like resetting a computer.
ok. im a sprinkler installer down in Africa Tanzania. have been using these for years now. and some of my clients get this ussues. and today i decided to look into it. and figure out that. this happens if the diaphram hardens. or the spring weakens. but its more the diaphgram which is supposed to sit on the exit top to cover water. if that diaphram hardens then it becomes hard for it to be pressed by the spring im currently finding a way to fix it. i have like 10 valves replaced from places and i want to get over this
@@andyjk5974 Thanks for posting. That's an interesting point about the diaphragm hardening... so even if it looks undamaged it may still need replacement. Based on other videos most of us probably only look for tears in the diaphragm and junk around it. When I couldn't find any obvious problem with the diaphragm or solenoid in my leaking valve, I had the whole valve replaced, and the new valve has started producing a terrible water hammer in my pipes. I wish I could have the old valve back and try replacing just the diaphragm first.
Did you find a solution? I have a valve that will not go off. When I disassembled it, everything was clean inside, no clogs, nothing to be concerned with. I replaced the solenoid and still have the same issue.
@@ktysonb I have had way better performance and quality with Rain Bird. I guess a follow-up to my post (geez, has it been two years already?) was that I replaced the diaphragm. Apparently they get stiffer as they age. Changing that out is what got the valve functioning again.
My problem. Sprinkler not working. Timer does have power and has been programmed. Today I turned each zone manually and they seem to work for most part. But...will stop working before reaching my 10 minute setting. In other words after about 5 mins it stopped working. I then tried other zones and they didn't work period in manual mode. Anyone?
Thank you. I had one valve that was slowly leaking water when controller for that valve was off. I took the top off the valve and removed the diaphragm for inspection / cleaning. I found one very small pebble. I flushed and reassembled it. Then, I turned the water on with the controller still in the off position. The valve turned on fully. I searched and found your video. After watching your video and turning the valve on and off from the controller, the valve did shut off. My slow leak has also stopped.
Thanks SpinklerDaddy. I was manually testing two new Orbit 3/4" valves and they kept dibbling after shut off. I followed your advice for checking for debris and found PVC fragments (from up-line cut pipe) underneath the diaphragm. After cleaning them out and reassembling, no worries.
Thank you so much! Your demonstration was perfect. I followed your instruction and cleaned our 5 zone set of valves (all leaking) with a tooth brush after taking them apart. It solved the problem with 1 hour of my time... saving a $1000 replacement proposal by our (former) landscaper/irrigation contractor. One added comment to your instruction could include a suggestion to put a screen on the water source for well water supplied systems (like ours)... can cause sand and mineral buildup in the valve.
Thank you! You just saved me $15. I fixed the valve and no longer need to buy a new one
Hey....thanks there Sean!!!! I had had a plumber over two years ago, when I first experienced the problem....He removed the solenoid and found a very small chard of a rock in, it....never telling me that the problem could be in the valve...He remedied the problem for a very short time....and then it happened with more of the sprinklers....sheesh....new home owners can be ignorant...thanks again...kudos!! Cathy in Oregon
Several systems with them and they work great. Use an extra one on the main line for extra protection. The orbit clock has a main valve terminal.
This was precisely the fix needed, thank you for the great video!
I have the preassembled 3-valve system, installed with an orbit timer, but valves are not closing when the previous one ends irrigation time, it just keeps going so the pressure in each sector is not optimal. I already tried to cleaned them by opening them but it did no difference...what else could be?
I tried that with the orbit solenoid I bought off amazon but there was no debris etc. in my case the valve stays open unless you give the actual solenoid motor a tap with something like the handle of a screwdriver then it shuts off so when I water I have to run down and tap the solenoid each time which is kinda defeating the purpose of having it. thoughts?
I have a brand new installation with 22 of these. NONE of them shut off ! . All brand new pipes. Someone told me my incoming water pressure is too high , but the main shut-off valves ( anti-siphon type) do work correctly. pissed ...
I found a small stainless washer in mine. ?????
Mine isn't a slow leak the valve is stuck fully open, and there is no debree inside. My sprinklers have been going all day.
Hi, what was the outcome? I'm having the same problem with one of my zones. It's not a slow leak... it's running almost full blast. I watched every troubleshooting video and nothing was applicable to my situation. Diaphragm visually looks ok and has no junk around it. Solenoid looks fine and I can hear it turn on/off when activated by the controller. There's no "air release" knob to try on my valve. Sigh.
@ZerothRoundPick I turned off the water and removed the solenoid intending to replace it. I couldn't find a replacement locally so I put it back together and the leak stopped. It hasn't happened since.
@@TomsBackyardWorkshop Thank you for the reply! It's great when something simple makes a problem go away as mysteriously as it came. Just like resetting a computer.
ok. im a sprinkler installer down in Africa Tanzania. have been using these for years now. and some of my clients get this ussues. and today i decided to look into it. and figure out that. this happens if the diaphram hardens. or the spring weakens. but its more the diaphgram which is supposed to sit on the exit top to cover water. if that diaphram hardens then it becomes hard for it to be pressed by the spring im currently finding a way to fix it. i have like 10 valves replaced from places and i want to get over this
@@andyjk5974 Thanks for posting. That's an interesting point about the diaphragm hardening... so even if it looks undamaged it may still need replacement. Based on other videos most of us probably only look for tears in the diaphragm and junk around it. When I couldn't find any obvious problem with the diaphragm or solenoid in my leaking valve, I had the whole valve replaced, and the new valve has started producing a terrible water hammer in my pipes. I wish I could have the old valve back and try replacing just the diaphragm first.
I took my valves apart as shown. They were clean, in fact they are new. They still do not shut off.
Did you find a solution? I have a valve that will not go off. When I disassembled it, everything was clean inside, no clogs, nothing to be concerned with. I replaced the solenoid and still have the same issue.
@@SuperJ213 same as me. I think orbit is just cheap. Should've bought the rain bird valves
@@ktysonb I have had way better performance and quality with Rain Bird. I guess a follow-up to my post (geez, has it been two years already?) was that I replaced the diaphragm. Apparently they get stiffer as they age. Changing that out is what got the valve functioning again.
@@SuperJ213 thanks for the tip. I may have to go down that road.
Update. I replaced the solenoid and it fixed the problem. Brand new valve and i had to replace the solenoid. Can't be a good sign
I'm pretty sure you have to shut off the water first..........
My problem. Sprinkler not working. Timer does have power and has been programmed. Today I turned each zone manually and they seem to work for most part. But...will stop working before reaching my 10 minute setting. In other words after about 5 mins it stopped working. I then tried other zones and they didn't work period in manual mode. Anyone?
Al Complaint mj
sounds like your line is clogged. do you have a filter?
What happened to this guy? 😕
never buy from orbitz
Why try to fix a sub-standard product? Rip that crap out and install a real product from Rain Bird or Hunter.
Leakyvalve