Excellent video thatnks for taking the time to explain the nuances of the Conturo MFT. I own the Festool dual Vac Sys which can hold my long pieces in place, so I'll probably just get the Conturo and save some money. I noticed in your short video you also own the Vac Sys.
Hi Anthony, Thanks for taking the time to publish this video. I just bought a used Conturo for some projects I have coming up at home, the first of which is a kitchen. I was hoping to use birch edge banding to match the cabinet interiors but I cannot find any unglued birch. Have you tried using preglued edge banding in the Conturo? I know it is not what the machine is ideally designed for but I can source preglued birch edge banding. Many thanks
How difficult is it to change the color of the glue pucks? Also, my project is for my house and my mother's house and possibly my next home, so I am thinking the MFK700 is the way to go, what about the bit you are using for the MFK700? Thanks for making the videos!
There’s a color change button to purge the old glue color out. I think I put the router bit link in the description. Yep, I did. The links are in the description box
Hi there, I appreciate your videos on cabinet building. I have pretty much the same set of tools but not nearly as experienced as you. I was wondering if you’ve had any experience with edge banding prefinished plywood with matching ABS or wood veneer? The problem I’m running into is that I can’t quite get all the adhesive off. If I go tighter with the trim router I take of the finished. So I back off but there always seems to be a tiny bit of adhesive left behind and then I need to use some acetone or paint thinner to remove. Any insights or tips would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Are you using the festool MFK700? Are you using the 1.5 degree trim base or the 0.0 base? Are you using the 8mm shank Festool trim bit? It’s hard for me to answer that question because I don’t know if you’re using the same setup or what you’re settings are. If you are using the 1.5 degree base, with the festool router bit, you should only have it set where it trims the banding at that angle and doesn’t cut into the plywood, but if you can’t dial that in, get close as possible and then use a carbide scraper at that should remove the glue without hitting the plywood.
@@AnthonyScolaro1 thank you for the response. I’m using exactly the same setup you have. Just seems no matter how I set it up it always leaves like a smudge of adhesive behind. Not sure if the router bit is heating it up too much. I haven’t had much success with the carbide scraper either. I’ll keep at it. Thanks again.
@@OEM19 you’re going to have to just keep trying to dial it in a test piece. Try moving the feeler bearing forward so that the outer part of the bearing is over the middle of the router bit.
@@AnthonyScolaro1 bit late to the party, but it's also advisable to play a bit with the glue settings and temps for different materials. For particle board I found 5/8th glue setting @200°C ideal (as it 'soaks' a lot of the glue), if I used the same settings on ply it'd squeeze out.
I’ve had this for about 8 months now and trust me it’s been paid for more than twice over already, and it was worth every penny. You cannot do narrow boards freehand, the top plate and the base of the machine are too big and hit the clamps and any table underneath. That’s why I said anything 6” (150mm) or less have to be done on the conturo table. I primarily use it freehand on my cabinet carcass fronts because those are large panels. I actually like it better out if the table. You can see me use it freehand in the shorts video I did and also the bar build series.
Hey, great video, i can’t wait to have a set up like this one day ! I’ve bought an MFK700 recently. I didn’t buy the set as I plan to use it only in the vertical position and only for edgeband trimming. Do you know which router bit to get? Festool sell the S8 HW R3 D28 KL12,7 MFK but I don’t know how to choose the radius for the bit ! (1, 1.5, 2 or 3mm). I just want to trim my edge banding flush with the board. If you have any tips that would great! Loving the videos!
I only use the horizontal trimming plate 1.5 degree for banding’s with an 8mm Festool bit. I don’t know about the radius bit for vertical trimming but I know that Festool sells the exact one you need for that. They also sell a 0 degree horizontal plate that flushes the banding to the material that can be used with the same 8mm trim bit. I have that plate also. Great for thicker solid wood edging.
@@AnthonyScolaro1 I'm still a bit confused about which configuration to use the MFK700 in (vertical or horizontal). It looks like you can trim edgebanding in either orientation but you need different router bits. I use mostly 1mm PVC edgebanding. Would you suggest the horizontal orientation for that type of material?
@ watch my closet built ins video here- Transform your walk in closet ua-cam.com/video/Z5xrkJVuJeY/v-deo.html I use 1mm pvc banding and trim with it horizontally, then use the carbide scraper to finish and round the edge. But if you didn’t want to do that, then the mfk700 has a vertical base with a bearing to trim and round the edge at the same time, and yes you need a different bit for that. I have both but I don’t use the vertical base often.
@@AnthonyScolaro1 Ok, thanks for the quick reply Anthony. Most of the pros like yourself seem to use it in the horizontal orientation. That makes sense to me because you can reference off that large flat base for good stability. But the way Festool sells it, if you want the horizontal base, you have to buy a kit that has both bases which is about $200 more. I love Festool, but sometimes they can be confusing and even my local dealer wasn't too familiar with the pros and cons of the different options.
No dominos. You can, but this is plywood and not end grain, so glue and brad nails while aligning it by hand as you go down the line is more than enough and saves time. I only use dominos mainly on cabinets, face frames, picture frames and table tops and end grain connections.
I had no idea how that worked. I would have liked to see it once in real time, but I slowed it down to .25X and that was close enough, but you sounded very drunk! I imagine there could be a similar bench mounted setup for the iron-on stuff, but it would still be much slower.
Believe it or not, it’s only sped up a few seconds, in real time it only takes about 20 seconds to do one side of the board. The machine actually moves pretty quickly. Even faster to trim it with the router.
Yeah my priorities are my carpentry business guy, not my camera(which by the way is a Canon M50 that everyone uses). Get your head on straight, my custom carpentry makes more than 50x’s what I make from youtube buddy. You think I can make a living off this small channel and buy all Festool stuff, you have no common sense. I’m trying in my spare time while doing jobs, help people with my experience and knowledge.
Excellent video thatnks for taking the time to explain the nuances of the Conturo MFT. I own the Festool dual Vac Sys which can hold my long pieces in place, so I'll probably just get the Conturo and save some money. I noticed in your short video you also own the Vac Sys.
Those tools are game changer right there brother.
Yep. Changed my life
Hi Anthony,
Thanks for taking the time to publish this video.
I just bought a used Conturo for some projects I have coming up at home, the first of which is a kitchen.
I was hoping to use birch edge banding to match the cabinet interiors but I cannot find any unglued birch.
Have you tried using preglued edge banding in the Conturo? I know it is not what the machine is ideally designed for but I can source preglued birch edge banding.
Many thanks
I wouldn’t use pre glued as it will not melt the glue and you won’t get a good bond. Here’s my link for non glued birch edge banding
amzn.to/49pZeTE
Great video. For the trim router. What bit is used in the router to trim the applied edge banding? Thanks.
I have the router bit linked in the description.
Hello, great video. Can u tell me what tool pouch (dont know if thats the name for that) do u use? thank u
Kobalt from Lowe’s
How difficult is it to change the color of the glue pucks? Also, my project is for my house and my mother's house and possibly my next home, so I am thinking the MFK700 is the way to go, what about the bit you are using for the MFK700? Thanks for making the videos!
There’s a color change button to purge the old glue color out. I think I put the router bit link in the description. Yep, I did. The links are in the description box
Hi there, I appreciate your videos on cabinet building. I have pretty much the same set of tools but not nearly as experienced as you. I was wondering if you’ve had any experience with edge banding prefinished plywood with matching ABS or wood veneer? The problem I’m running into is that I can’t quite get all the adhesive off. If I go tighter with the trim router I take of the finished. So I back off but there always seems to be a tiny bit of adhesive left behind and then I need to use some acetone or paint thinner to remove. Any insights or tips would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Are you using the festool MFK700? Are you using the 1.5 degree trim base or the 0.0 base? Are you using the 8mm shank Festool trim bit? It’s hard for me to answer that question because I don’t know if you’re using the same setup or what you’re settings are. If you are using the 1.5 degree base, with the festool router bit, you should only have it set where it trims the banding at that angle and doesn’t cut into the plywood, but if you can’t dial that in, get close as possible and then use a carbide scraper at that should remove the glue without hitting the plywood.
@@AnthonyScolaro1 thank you for the response. I’m using exactly the same setup you have. Just seems no matter how I set it up it always leaves like a smudge of adhesive behind. Not sure if the router bit is heating it up too much. I haven’t had much success with the carbide scraper either. I’ll keep at it. Thanks again.
@@OEM19 you’re going to have to just keep trying to dial it in a test piece. Try moving the feeler bearing forward so that the outer part of the bearing is over the middle of the router bit.
@@AnthonyScolaro1 bit late to the party, but it's also advisable to play a bit with the glue settings and temps for different materials. For particle board I found 5/8th glue setting @200°C ideal (as it 'soaks' a lot of the glue), if I used the same settings on ply it'd squeeze out.
Nice, it will pay for itself for sure. How is it on narrow boards freehand?
I’ve had this for about 8 months now and trust me it’s been paid for more than twice over already, and it was worth every penny. You cannot do narrow boards freehand, the top plate and the base of the machine are too big and hit the clamps and any table underneath. That’s why I said anything 6” (150mm) or less have to be done on the conturo table. I primarily use it freehand on my cabinet carcass fronts because those are large panels. I actually like it better out if the table. You can see me use it freehand in the shorts video I did and also the bar build series.
Hey, great video, i can’t wait to have a set up like this one day ! I’ve bought an MFK700 recently. I didn’t buy the set as I plan to use it only in the vertical position and only for edgeband trimming. Do you know which router bit to get? Festool sell the S8 HW R3 D28 KL12,7 MFK but I don’t know how to choose the radius for the bit ! (1, 1.5, 2 or 3mm). I just want to trim my edge banding flush with the board. If you have any tips that would great! Loving the videos!
I only use the horizontal trimming plate 1.5 degree for banding’s with an 8mm Festool bit. I don’t know about the radius bit for vertical trimming but I know that Festool sells the exact one you need for that. They also sell a 0 degree horizontal plate that flushes the banding to the material that can be used with the same 8mm trim bit. I have that plate also. Great for thicker solid wood edging.
Thanks so much ! And can’t believe you actually replied !
@@AnthonyScolaro1 I'm still a bit confused about which configuration to use the MFK700 in (vertical or horizontal). It looks like you can trim edgebanding in either orientation but you need different router bits. I use mostly 1mm PVC edgebanding. Would you suggest the horizontal orientation for that type of material?
@ watch my closet built ins video here- Transform your walk in closet
ua-cam.com/video/Z5xrkJVuJeY/v-deo.html
I use 1mm pvc banding and trim with it horizontally, then use the carbide scraper to finish and round the edge. But if you didn’t want to do that, then the mfk700 has a vertical base with a bearing to trim and round the edge at the same time, and yes you need a different bit for that. I have both but I don’t use the vertical base often.
@@AnthonyScolaro1 Ok, thanks for the quick reply Anthony. Most of the pros like yourself seem to use it in the horizontal orientation. That makes sense to me because you can reference off that large flat base for good stability. But the way Festool sells it, if you want the horizontal base, you have to buy a kit that has both bases which is about $200 more. I love Festool, but sometimes they can be confusing and even my local dealer wasn't too familiar with the pros and cons of the different options.
Just curious- do the L-shaped pieces use Dominos for alignment?
No dominos. You can, but this is plywood and not end grain, so glue and brad nails while aligning it by hand as you go down the line is more than enough and saves time. I only use dominos mainly on cabinets, face frames, picture frames and table tops and end grain connections.
I had no idea how that worked. I would have liked to see it once in real time, but I slowed it down to .25X and that was close enough, but you sounded very drunk! I imagine there could be a similar bench mounted setup for the iron-on stuff, but it would still be much slower.
Believe it or not, it’s only sped up a few seconds, in real time it only takes about 20 seconds to do one side of the board. The machine actually moves pretty quickly. Even faster to trim it with the router.
👍
$5K for festool conturo and $50 for camera... priorities
Yeah my priorities are my carpentry business guy, not my camera(which by the way is a Canon M50 that everyone uses). Get your head on straight, my custom carpentry makes more than 50x’s what I make from youtube buddy. You think I can make a living off this small channel and buy all Festool stuff, you have no common sense. I’m trying in my spare time while doing jobs, help people with my experience and knowledge.
@markoseric514 Sounds like a you-problem; buy him a new camera if it bothers you so much 🙃
Appreciate the review!