Time after time, I see people hitting the rotor with park brake drums when you can simply back off the shoes through the rubber plug hole on the drum. Thanks for the video it helped.
Mine did that too. Had an alignment done and camber was much better and tires were no longer wearing in inner edges. Thanks for watching and consider subscribing!
@@GarageWorx Ok this is great to know. If you had to do this again, would you do anything different? I am in the rust belt of New England so I think my biggest challenge is getting the hub out of the housing.
Yes, there is a way to remove the 4 bolts holding the hub without removing the shock and the spring arm, but is is a major PITA and you need a helper for an hour. First soak the threaded ends of the four bolts from the outside to loosen the rust on the exposed bolt threads. Then the helper pushes in the axle from the outside as far as they can push it. You will need to get a 14mm socket and grind down the hex end that goes over the bolt head. Grind it a lot so there is only 6mm or so of hex end remaining. Also grind off 1mm of the perimeter of the socket all around to reduce its outer diameter by a total of 2mm. Also bring down the top shoulder of the socket(the end that fits over the ratchet drive spindle). This grinding is needed so you can fit the socket past the ABS toothed gear and slip the socket over the head of the bolts. It will take some fiddling to do this for all four bolts. You will need several extensions for your ratchet and also a universal joint so you can avoid interference from other car parts like the suspension spring and the shock. After you break the bolt thread loose, unscrew the bolt as far as possible while your assistant is pushing in on the axle (in order to give you a gap to insert your ground-down socket over the bolt head). Then screw the bolt back in and out a few times to loosen the rust some more, but do not tight it, and then unscrew the bolt a few turns and stop. Remove the socket from the bolt head and reinstall the socket over the bolt head at a slight angle in order to just miss the ABS gear. This is why grinding down the length and outer diameter of the socket is necessary. Slowly unscrew the bolt until it clears the treads of the hub flange, but do not remove the bolts. You will not be able to remove them anyway since the built-in washer under the bolt hex head will touch the ABS gear and prevent bolt removal. I just did this today on my 2008 Santa Fe Limited with AWD at 215,000 km (134,000 miles), on the passenger side rear wheel. It took over an hour to get the hub out but it is seized onto the backing plate I’d the parking brake assembly. I could not separate the pieces so far so I am soaking the joint between the hub and parking brake flange and will try it tomorrow with some heat from my torch to expand the outer flange. Hope it works!
For certain it would , that rotor would come off easy shoes were hanging it up you could tell as the rotor had some movement right away , if there was no movement that means it’s frozen to the hub also , give it a try next time
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Awesome! Thanks from Austin, Texas
Time after time, I see people hitting the rotor with park brake drums when you can simply back off the shoes through the rubber plug hole on the drum. Thanks for the video it helped.
Thank you. I'm getting ready to do the same on my 2008 Hyundai santa fe GLS
I'm at 108,000. Miles. Rear tires like to wear prematurely on the inner edges. Ugh. Just replaced rear shocks too.
Mine did that too. Had an alignment done and camber was much better and tires were no longer wearing in inner edges. Thanks for watching and consider subscribing!
Great video..made my job way easy. Thanx
Glad it helped!
Is there any way to get to the wheel bearing bolts without removing the control arm and shock?
I don't think so. It would be impossible to access the 4 bolts holding the bearing on. It's really not that bad to do it the way I did.
@@GarageWorx Ok this is great to know. If you had to do this again, would you do anything different? I am in the rust belt of New England so I think my biggest challenge is getting the hub out of the housing.
Getting the hub out of the housing was the hardest part. Soak everything with penetrating oil.
I don't think I would do anything different.
Yes, there is a way to remove the 4 bolts holding the hub without removing the shock and the spring arm, but is is a major PITA and you need a helper for an hour.
First soak the threaded ends of the four bolts from the outside to loosen the rust on the exposed bolt threads. Then the helper pushes in the axle from the outside as far as they can push it.
You will need to get a 14mm socket and grind down the hex end that goes over the bolt head. Grind it a lot so there is only 6mm or so of hex end remaining.
Also grind off 1mm of the perimeter of the socket all around to reduce its outer diameter by a total of 2mm. Also bring down the top shoulder of the socket(the end that fits over the ratchet drive spindle). This grinding is needed so you can fit the socket past the ABS toothed gear and slip the socket over the head of the bolts. It will take some fiddling to do this for all four bolts.
You will need several extensions for your ratchet and also a universal joint so you can avoid interference from other car parts like the suspension spring and the shock. After you break the bolt thread loose, unscrew the bolt as far as possible while your assistant is pushing in on the axle (in order to give you a gap to insert your ground-down socket over the bolt head).
Then screw the bolt back in and out a few times to loosen the rust some more, but do not tight it, and then unscrew the bolt a few turns and stop.
Remove the socket from the bolt head and reinstall the socket over the bolt head at a slight angle in order to just miss the ABS gear. This is why grinding down the length and outer diameter of the socket is necessary. Slowly unscrew the bolt until it clears the treads of the hub flange, but do not remove the bolts. You will not be able to remove them anyway since the built-in washer under the bolt hex head will touch the ABS gear and prevent bolt removal.
I just did this today on my 2008 Santa Fe Limited with AWD at 215,000 km (134,000 miles), on the passenger side rear wheel. It took over an hour to get the hub out but it is seized onto the backing plate I’d the parking brake assembly. I could not separate the pieces so far so I am soaking the joint between the hub and parking brake flange and will try it tomorrow with some heat from my torch to expand the outer flange.
Hope it works!
How was it to reassemble the 3 bolts you had to remove that were under compression? Any special tools needed?
I didn't use any special tools.
Would it be the same for a 2004 all wheel drive. Garage told me it is a lot of work and cost to much,scrape the Santa Fe. ?
Can't say for sure if it would be the same. It would probably be somewhat similar. Thanks for watching.
Hahaha you don't scrap awhole car due to a bearing lol that's just ridiculous
Great job little hard but that’s OK you’ll get through it and that you did😊
Thanks for watching.
thank u mam ur the best
Thanks for watching.
I didn't see you retract yer park brake shoes before trying to remove rotor ? did you ?
I did not. I don't think it would have mattered. Got to love what salt does!
For certain it would , that rotor would come off easy shoes were hanging it up you could tell as the rotor had some movement right away , if there was no movement that means it’s frozen to the hub also , give it a try next time
Adjuster rusted in place. Not going to turn.
Been there and done that recently with my 2007. Seems like the rear bearings like to fail at 100-120k miles.
125k for me. Wonder when the passenger side will start making noise.
@@GarageWorx probably within 10k miles. My passenger one failed at 105k approx, and then the driver side failed at 115k. Pain in the arse with AWD.