Great video, this is a very nuanced subject that deserves experimentation. I’m loving all the comments, I’d like to add to the conversation. I’ve messed around with this quite a bit, especially for exterior applications. I have mainly experimented with deep char. I plan to do more experimenting, however in an exterior application on dug fir with deep char is to dilute the linseed oil. I also recommend using a garden pump sprayer so that on the first coat or two you don’t blow off the char, using any wiping method ruins the char texture. First coat I’d do 40%lso to mineral spirits and flood it, it will the wood will rapidly pull the resin in, 2nd coat 60% linseed oil to minsprt, 3rd coat 75%linseed oil to mineral spirits and last full linseed oil. It’s all about getting the char and the wood fibers to pull in the the resin, the resin being the linseed oil. I tried this on some garden beds, dug fir with deep char and undiluted linseed oil, the char popped off on year three into year four. I rebuilt them, did this step progress and they are on year 4 in coastal New England weather and holding strong so far.
Thanks for that comment and for adding to the community aspect of these videos. Really appreciate your help sharing that. Love the sprayer idea and the dilution aspect.
Thank you for commenting on your method, I was looking to see if someone had used shousugi ban for outdoor beds and was wondering how to finish it. Do you think the mineral spirit dilution would be safe if I plan to grow vegetables in my garden beds? I am trying to find the safest options but it's been difficult
@@yatakadai that was my intention when I had built them in the first place. I plan to do a soil test before growing food in the beds so my experiment is currently on going. If I had to do it again, I would build them in the fall going into winter, so the finish would be able to off gas or dissipate and fill with soil in the spring. Instead of getting excited and filling them with soil so I can go onto the next project. We had planned to just grow flowers and what not in the soil we had for a few years as to let whatever pesticides and fertilizers in that soil dissipate. I also would do a gravel barrier going along the wood to keep the soil off the wood, allow it to stay drier by breathing. If, the mineral spirits are leaching into the soil, both letting the finish cure for a season and the gravel barrier might be a solution, all theoretical at the moment.
Great comparison video thanks for sharing! Working on a chicken coop with shou sugi ban finish right now. One thing I found, a cheap deck brush from a big box store got me a much better brush job. Even with brass brush I found I kept gouging the wood. They are also large enough to brush a whole board in one go.
I’m just finishing a herringbone floor 22mm oak, with a 2 deep staggered brick bond edging in the same blocks that I’ve burnt, sanded and oiled. Only lightly sanded after a medium burn and wax oiled. It’s much better and far more aesthetically pleasing than an ebony stain. The tiled effect from the scorched edges is stunning even if I do say so myself. 😎
I prefer the dark burn with linseed. I bet that with wear and weather, the patina will be awesome perhaps revealing more and more of the grain. I'd try that.
Excellent. I appreciate the feedback. Always trying to offer up good content. I'm glad it was helpful for you. What's the project you are looking to tackle with this?
Awesome video. I have barn doors that I utilized inside for sliding to cover my entertainment center/bookshelves. Would you use linseed oil for indoors or something else
Hi. I'd be curious to know/see if bees would be ok with this. Burnt wood might be off-putting to the bees. I'd test it out with leaving some burnt wood by the entrance of the hive to see how the bees react, before building a hive using this process. Let me know how that turns out.
brushing off the carbon defeats the purpose of doing yaki sugi. If you are going for asthetics only, its fine. Otherwise, dont brush it. That burnt carbon is what increases protection.
Agreed, you are taking off some of the protection by brushing it. I have made raised beds/planters recently and didn't brush them. Also lead to a cool look without impacting the protection aspect (just oiled the burned wood).
Hard to say. I know that intermittent application of linseed definitely works, since I have done that myself. All comes down to a number of factors like sun exposure, moisture, temperature, etc.
Question… I have some planters I built in the last few weeks but have not planted in yet. I simply used tung oil on them as a preservative but think it would be great to char the inside of the planters for added preservation. I charred a sample and the oil bubbles up and gets a beautiful even char. Will this still work for the preservation or am I too late? Anyone with experience / advice to preserve planter boxes? Thanks!
No, you're likely not too late. I would generally advise to do it the other way around though (burn and then oil). Planters look great when you use this technique, no?
Never tried that. You've had success with that method? I find the brushing not to be that hard...kind of like it. Also ok to not brush at all. Get that question a lot. :)
Can you speak to maintenance? I realize it will depend on climate. I live in Nova Scotia Canada, so a bit moist, salt in the air (by the ocean). Wondering when to expect my first maintenance, w2nd maintenance, etc… and what they will involve?
Hi. Maintenance that I have performed is reapplication of linseed oil on occasion. I think that the wood will 'let you know' when it needs something from a visual standpoint. This process certainly helps with preservation, but the chemicals in pressure treated wood are definitely more effective in that regard...but I would argue that pressure treated wood is really ugly to look at even if it's less maintenance.
I just picked up some 4x4 doug fir lumber. Very nice and recently milled. I assume it's pretty green, but haven't checked with meter. I'm curious about doing a partially outdoor pergola project with them now, and wondering if Shou Sugi Ban would be fine to do now while green, or should wait until more dry? Any thoughts appreciated!
Hi there. That's a good question. I would imagine that if the wood is drier, that it would be advantageous. That said, I don't really know. Maybe I would split the difference and let it dry out a bit more, but not so long that you never wind up doing the pergola. Are you going to document the burn and build? Would love to see what the end result looks like.
Hey man really great video thanks for sharing. I build saunas in British Columbia and I want to learn how to do this for our custom sauna models. I've reached out to some companies to see if I could hire them to teach me and they've all basically giving me the middle finger, so cheers for making this video. I'm going for a very dark look using Western red cedar. I also have purchased a nylon wheel brush . I guess my question is if I burn it really well, and don't wire brush all of it off will it achieve a darker look? I guess I'll have to experiment hey
Yes, the longer you burn and the less you brush, the darker the wood will be. That said, you will sacrifice some smoothness in the wood with a longer burn. You are on the right track regarding doing some experiments to get the burn/brush combo right. I'm also willing to provide private lessons on this in exchange for a plane ticket to BC and room n’ board. :)
@@TinyIndustrial hey that's super cool thanks for the offer. I don't know if I have the budget for such a trip though LOL where are you located anyway? Maybe we could do a teams meeting and I could pay you? I kind of want a rough finish I like the look of nylon wheeled brush too that pulls out the grain. I also think adding charcoal to the linseed oil would be a good idea. Might be difficult with the washing process. Maybe a good brushing and collection before and then washing after. I'll have to try it. Thanks for the reply as well
@@jonmichaelroberts That is most likely to be the most long lived. Part of the excercise was to create a certain look and feel. The wood preservation was kind of secondary to the main point of this particular video.
I've charred the handle of a hand-tool of mine, but for the next step I was thinking if maybe a mixture of vegetable oil and ethanol could work for sealing the wood. Could it be possible?
Not sure why you would want to use vegetable oil on this. Not sure that's a good idea. Go out and buy some linseed oil. I wouldn't experiment with Mazola on one of these projects.
@@TinyIndustrial Its only what used our ancestors for several thousand years. Easy, you do not nead to mutch of this paste, and is always at home. You can see old furniture in castels and look still nice. 🙂 is only dark after several hundred or thousands years.
@@amyk2966 Yes is easy - important is, boil oil before mix it with wax, for 15 min to change it to farm. Put it to shallow jar. You can use for application soft textil. The best is use iron - it put it deaper into wood. After only polish with textile. One or two years later, you can put second layer with textile, and polish. That is forever.
I'm a beekeeper, so I use raw limeseed oil mixed with beeswax and like the way that looks... medium to heavy burn unless it's eastern cedar with a nice grain pattern.
@@TinyIndustrial I've done a workbench that turned out ok, but I also did a small fence with cedar boards that turned out great. I'm looking at a couple of different projects to use this for next including more fencing, accent pieces in our home, and raised beds for the veggie garden. I appreciate you putting the different levels of burning into the video. I'm thinking to go with a more heavy char for the garden beds, but the fencing & accent pieces I'm looking to keep/show off the grain of the wood. I've also been thinking about using tung oil for the waterproofing and being a little less expensive than teak oil.
That's great that you are experimenting with different projects on this. It gets kind of addictive. I found this homemade chair build design that I tried out. Love the chair...had to put a Shuo Sugi spin on it though. Likely to be the next video that I release. Stay tuned and please subscribe if you haven't already. Thanks!
I've built a pergola out of small oak logs, but I'm afraid it won't last in the rain. Should I remove the bark and burn the surface of the wood? thanks !
Burning will definitely help. Not sure how much additional time that will buy in terms of longevity, but I think that either way, burned wood looks a lot better than pressure treated any day of the week.
Danish oil is my choice. (Is this also known as teak oil?) I think id go with med-dark burn. Like coffee! 😂 ❤❤❤ So for the beautiful colorful woods, can we just wire brush them to raise the grain then oil them for natural color? Is there any other process besides burning that can prep them like burning? Thanks for making these videos.
Yup, that's my choice too. Sanding and then oiling is an option too. The burn just adds a darker color and makes the wood look more interesting...also enhances the longevity of the wood.
Well the oiling of the wood would only leave the wood 'slippery' for a short while. Once the oil soaks in and any excess is wiped off, there is no more sheen or slipperiness. I just did a brand new video where I do a cedar plank with this method. That really looks the best to me. I worry a bit about cedar being kind of soft, but from a looks perspective, cedar (oiled) can't be beat. I was shocked how good it turned out (ua-cam.com/video/HAo9ZEt11Co/v-deo.html). Check that out. We are going to be doing a deck redo next spring here as well and I'm leaning heavily towards Shou Sugi Ban cedar as the material of choice. Are you using pine? I'm not sure I would trust that for extra long longevity...although it is reasonably inexpensive and plentiful. What are your thoughts?
Definitely. I wouldn't suggest doing it to an existing deck, but if you are redoing a deck, yes, burn the planks on all sides, brush them and treat them with some oil and that should do it. Avoids all that nasty pressure treated wood or that Trex plasticky stuff (don't like it...do you?).
5 місяців тому
Instead of a wire brush I used a power washer. (Less elbow grease) But what I looking for talks preserving affect specifically underwater.
I find that diluting the linseed oil with mineral spirits helps with penetration and drying time. I find linseed oil on its own is too thick and takes forever to dry and it's clumpy if you try to sand. I do it at a 50/50 mix buy jug of each and just mix it into both jugs evenly and apply it Karate Kid Style oil on oil off, LOL I'll usually put on double the coats and I find it's much nicer looking and easier to work with as well as penetrating deeper and more evenly due to the mineral spirits just my opinion and how I do it at home with linseed oil as it's my go-to finish
I do something similar, I do multiple coats raising the linseed oil concentration level to full on last coat, gives a deep crackle finish more durablity, especially in out door applications. It’s all about getting the oil to soak deep into the wood fibers and thoroughly through the char.
I have a silly question that I'm sure experienced woodworkers would find obvious but would mineral oil work for outdoor applications? My instinct says no but I figured I would ask
@@TinyIndustrial No, we won't do a video. Our carpenter already made the gates & they're beautiful. Is it too late to do this procedure since not every side of each piece of wood can be burnt? TY!
@@dw3992 I see. Well, definitely make sure you don't set the fence on fire and keep water an extinguishers nearby. If the fence is anywhere near a house, I definitely would not recommend unless you can remove the planks and scorch them separately in a safe way. Not burning all the sides, somewhat defeats the point since the weakest link will be the untreated sections. Not sure I would recommend you move ahead with doing this for those reasons.
Excellent. Glad the video was helpful for you. Yes, I think there are some videos where the wood gets 'washed'. I personally never bother with that step, but sure, go ahead and do that. I presume that the wood would need to fully dry before you add on any kind of oil though. What's the project you are looking to do?
@@TinyIndustrial well, at present my goal is just to put wood aside for future needs.where I live it is humid and therefore wood turns Roth if not treated. Ciao
What is the unwire brushed heavy alligator skin like to oil? Is there a danger of the burnt layer coming off during oiling or handling after. Nice video ❤
Yes, there is. I have had some people reference that they use a paint sprayer to apply coatings to the delicate alligator skin variant and supposedly that works well. I can't confirm that though.
The idea behind this is to have a beautiful way to preserve the wood for a very long time. I believe the poly urethane will not hold up, outside, exposed to weather too long before it needs to be re-coated. Please advise.
Yeah, poly is not my first choice. Oil and occasionally reapplying the oil I find to be the best method. Kind of the way you would treat teak backyard furniture to maintain it's looks and longevity.
What do you recommend for maximum protection against constant sun? I want to use for an outdoor table but don’t want to refinish every year. Any of these options weather well compared to others for a table application?
Maximum protection would be simply using pressure treated wood. If you want to employ this method you kind of have to be open to a bit more maintenance. In exchange you get a much nicer (and earth friendly) finish on the wood, that looks a whole lot sexier than pressure treated. It's all a bit of a trade off.
Which method would prevent the least amount of dust from getting onto your clothes if you sit against it? Or what extra steps would you do to prevent the black dust from getting on your clothes?
The application of the oil and subsequent wiping down of the material clears 98% of any reside. When left in the elements for a while, it eliminates any remnants of dust that could come off on clothes. White linen pants maybe aren't recommended though...
If you don't like the wood burn, can you sand it out? I bought a table that was done in that technique but I've decided to use it in an area of the house where the burn look doesn't look good. Can I just sand it down?
Yes, the more you sand, the more you will reveal the unburned wood underneath. You can actually sand until you like the shade you are getting. How much you have to sand off depends on the burn depth. Hope that helps?
Good video, Thanks! ? Does the BLO dry so it's doesn't rub off and how long does that take (say on warm sunny days)? ? Does the BLO last long outdoors, exposed to weather and the sun? ? Have you ever tried applying 2-3 coats of the BLO then lightly running the torch over it to polymerize the oil? Thanks very much!
So the BLO mostly soaks into the wood. Wood is like a sponge for it. On a warm sunny day it happens within 15 to 20 min. Wipe of any excess. Excess is kind of your indicator that you have applied enough. Yes, the BLO lasts for quite a while outdoors. Kind of like teak furniture, the wood will dry out and it helps to reapply every so often. The heating after application is one thing you can do, I also have seen others warm the BLO before applying it. I think that both methods help with the absorption. I'm not a chemist, so I can't really speak to the polymerization of the oil. Anyone else on here know about that?
@@TinyIndustrial Thanks for the reply! I think warming the wood before applying helps too, by opening the pores up. I'd guess there would be some polymerization if you could get it to the right temperature. It's what occurs with "seasoning" a cast iron pan with oil, like flax, etc. It's what makes it stick to the surface and densify given the non-stick result. I'll give the heat treatment of the BLO, once applied on some SPF lumber and let you know if it made a difference.
@@TinyIndustrial I'm cladding an porch, I was going to used Siberian larch but I really like the idea of shou sugi ban,my question that you answered was should I burn the wood all round as its untreated and will be used outside in the British climate?
@@grahamfletcher5320 I see. Yup, burn all surfaces. Has a number of benefits, albeit a bit more work. I would also still apply a liberal coat of linseed oil for added longevity and protection. Good luck with the project!
Great video! Do I need to burn all sides if i want to install it outside on My house? I Mean, if you dont burn it all way around, will i rotten on the back?
Ideally yes. I reference that towards the end of this video. Did you not see it? There are two main reasons for doing so: 1) protection of the wood 2) warping and twisting of the wood from non-uniform application of heat. What's the project you are doing?
I don't care what it looks like. I want to use this technique to preserve the lumber I make my raised garden beds out of. I think I should go with at least medium but would a heavier burn be more durable?
Yes, go for a heavier burn. Some have said not to take it too far though since you start to impact the integrity and strength of the wood with too aggressive a burn. Will you be documenting your raised beds on UA-cam?
@@TinyIndustrial It's done. and the wood soaked up the Linseed oil like a sponge. I have my doubts that this will work, but the wood was so cheap I couldn't resist. It would make for a good vdeo to see how long it will last, but it would need to have a 'control' to see how much better it performs than doing nothing special. I appreciate your efforts.
Wood soaking up the oil is a good start. Pretty chilly up north here and temp tends to play a roll too. The warmer it is the better. Some will even warm up the oil before applying it. Not sure how much that really helps. Again, thanks for the comments..
Good video, my feedback is even though the alligator skin look isn’t for you, you should have shown us how that would have turned out. I love that look, and I especially I wonder how it finishes and if it rubs off or is delicate…
I was replacing old deck boards and found the foundation boards rotten, no termites. Should I oil the support boards before and after burning? No for looks but for long lasting.
Again, no oiling before the burn. Also, are the old deck boards pressure treated? In that case I would neither burn nor oil them, since pressure treated wood does not lend itself to this process at all. Also, do not do a burn on an installed deck either way. You might set your house on fire doing so. Only burn wood that isn't attached to anything (i.e. loose only). Make sense?
Cookies sitting on the ground would last a bit longer using this method, but any wood in contact with the wet ground is going to be problematic. In a desert environment perhaps you would see some increased gains due to limited moisture and that the fact that the bugs will be put off (for a while) by the burnt wood.
Maybe...but probably not. I would more likely seal in a countertop for a bathroom for some kind of acrylic or epoxy. The reason for that is that you might wind up with some not so nice stains on a surface that is only treated with the oil. It would also likely be a bit hard to keep clean. Wiping toothpaste or similar would be kind of pain I would imagine. Once you seal the burn under some form of smoother and more robust coating, that would likely make is easier and better to enjoy the beauty of the burnt wood.
Just a thought but had you had a 4th board that was not burnt for reference for us to see the amount of color that came out, it would help. I may need to ‘sell’ this idea to my wife.
Ahh. yes. Good idea. I'll keep that in mind for future videos. Check out some of my other videos on the channel regarding this process. You may find one that resonates better with your wife. :)
As a spray on product it is intended to coat and harden in place. It's a different thing than the oils which are intended to soak into the wood. Much like if I had used spray paint on the wood, I would not smooth that out with a brush either. Same holds true for a clear coat of poly-urethane...it resides more on the surface vs. soaking in.
Sure, that works. The blow torch to me is simply the easiest way to do this and to have control over the process. Burning over an actual fire is more a purist move. Go for it. Let me know how that goes.
When you burn all sides, I takes care of that pretty efficiently. Burning only one side will lead to bowing. What project are you considering for this?
@@TinyIndustrial used a mahogany plank as trial run but it was only one side. Will try both sides. Going for outdoor privacy fence. Do you assemble them first then heat treat it or heat treat individual pieces followed by assembly?
I would always burn everything first and then assemble after. Otherwise, where there are joints or pieces mounted together, you will get areas that aren't treated and they will be subject to premature deterioration.
The trick is to burn 3 in a triangle vertically tied together with wire, starting a fire at the bottom. When it gets to the top you cut the wire and immediately wash heavy with a hose. Suyaki or alligator finish is considered the best but its all objective. Wash off alll the soot right after burning, let dry, then apply a penetrating oil finish. Never brush in my opinion. The boards dont cup as long as you burn fast, hot, and wash off to complete the process. Missing any step and it will warp. If youre getting white ash you burned too long or in one area too much
It will 'extend' the life of the wood. How long depends on a lot of different factors, including, but not limited to, the depth of the burn, post burn application of oils, weather conditions, exposure to sun and water, etc. Hard to say exactly for those reasons. 100 years or more seems like a stretch though. Do this because you 1) like how it looks 2) want to avoid pressure treated lumber chemicals 3) hope to gain a 'bit' more longevity out of the wood used. Make sense?
No! Definitely not. Pressure treated has a ton of chemicals in it and does not work with this preservation process. Think of pressure treated as the 'non-organic' way of preserving wood. Hope that clears it up for you.
Thanks. It's a process that once you do a project or two with it, it gets to be a go to method for preserving wood and the look of it will likely grow on you. What's a project you could envision doing for this?
@TinyIndustrial , I might try burning some cedar boxes after planing them. I normally just use raw 2" cedar for above ground gardening. They might spice up the look of the garden.
Why just a light scrubbing? I ask because a more intense scrubbing with an nylon/nyalox brush, either hand or drill attachment, will sway you to the alligator burn because it burns the hardwood more, and the softwood, with a good scrubbing, creates a massive contrast and more texture.
Yes, I think that there are a number of things that are worth experimenting with. Although I have done a number of projects with this, I still always feel that there are a lot more variations to explore. What video would you like to see me do in that regard?
I don't know. I think that you might wind up roughing up the grain of the wood. May not lead to a desirable result. Have you tried it? Would love to hear how/if it works.
I hope people do their research and understand it is possible that the two lighter burns may not preserve much, mainly aesthetic at that point as I understand and probably would not use the term.
@@TaLeng2023 the burning is the part that protects/seals the wood. The application of oil just enhances that. There is no further waterproofing needed.
When using for weatherproofing, not just appearance, how long/how hot do you need to burn? And if you brush it off, arent you removing some of the weather protection?
No the idea is that you remove the softer cellulose out of the wood. That is what the bugs eat and the part that starts on fire the fastest. Its no problem to sand it.
@@greatitbroke any idea where I can find the science on this? I'm looking for the weather/water proofing... how much can I send off? How deep to burn, DETAILS lol. I want to use for siding on my house.
It's more of an art than a science. It offers chemical free protection for the wood. How much protection you get depends on all sorts of variables. Type of wood. How green the wood is. How deep the burn is. etc. It's a good thing to experiment with. Will it last as long as a piece of pressure treated wood? Probably not, but it looks a whole lot nicer and and isn't as carcinogenic.
No, not really. You could do an oil refresh after a year or so. Either way, you have massively extended the life of the wood if it is going to be in some way exposed to the elements.
Yes, it's really just about how much you burn the wood. The longer you burn a rougher surface, the smoother it will be after you wire brush the debris off. What are you thinking of doing with this technique.
Hi, Thanks for the content. Easy to follow and informative, good atmosphere, simple and relaxed, but serious about the subject. Appreciate it! One question: With oil, how often should it be re-applied? What are the signs to look for to know when it is time to "re-coat"? Thanks.
Hard to say. I would think that once per year would be sufficient in regard to recoating. Thank for checking out the content and for the kind words. Are you planning a project with this technique?
@@TinyIndustrial Thanks for the answer. Yes, I just bought a big piece of land in Northern Ontario and am planning to build a house and several cabins on it with different construction materials and technics. As a follow-up question, do you know if burnt wood is ever used as a below grade treatment for wood posts?
I have seen some videos where the technique is used on fence posts. Not sure if it held up in that kind of scenario. Bottom line is that burning the wood will always get you some additional longevity...how much is the question and whether or not it's worth it. I employ the technique for looks and to extend the life.
Thank you so much for suggesting that. I just shot a video using that method. Will be posting it shortly! Much appreciated. Keep the suggestions coming.
That's exactly how I roll. Nice to see I'm in good company. Check out my new video on the topic. I make a chair with this technique: ua-cam.com/video/4CptSIvWJ3Q/v-deo.htmlsi=MAZWLi2IUhg0kSpN
Fair enough. It's totally a preference thing. I can add though that it's a 'bit' more difficult to get an even light burn on a piece of wood than a darker one. What project are you considering with this?
Burning to the pointnof the alligator skin weakens the integrity and isnt recommended. If you want to preserve the grain of the wood you can use a heavy nylon deck brush instead
Sure. There is a trade off here. Some people are looking to preserve the wood (primary focus). Others are trying to make it look nice. Depending on what your goals are, one method may make more or less sense. Deeper vs. lighter and so on.
I'll take the free option of no finish or if money is no object, boiled linseed oil as long as that's the only ingredient. My concern with the finish when using them for raised beds, planter boxes, or outdoor siding, is what happens when it eventually starts to deteriorate? I'm using this method to avoid toxic chemicals in the first place and weather seal the wood naturally so I don't have to worry about polluting the environment further; babies are already born with plastic microparticles in their bloostream, that's a toxic enough planet for me.
Totally agree that there are too many chemicals used. I agree with the comment though that using the burn to help preserve the wood is already eliminating chemicals from that process. Adding some linseed oil doesn't really seem that bad for me. Totally understand that if this is to be in a planter, you want to be careful.
I like the lightly burned variants best. I can’t see much difference in the surfaces with regard to the products usedto finish them. I have watched some shou sugi ban videos which used food colours and they looked good too ! 👍
Always misconceptions. If you want linseed oil, then you will use RAW linseed oil not boiled, as the boiled process uses chemicals to achieve that. If you want an oil finish, then a “food” safe is raw linseed with pure tung oil, which the tung oil will help dry/harden the oils. Of course you would need to apply about 4 coats each season, no different then doing a butcher block. Whereas butcher block finishes can have bees wax or a combination of waxes with those oils. As for another misconception, fully cured poly will not leach chemicals, as the only thing left behind in its hardened state are the resins, or acrylic resin mix. Of course you need to wait the full 3-4 weeks for it to cure before adding soil. Once cured ( after 2-3 coats with 24 hours drying time in between), you could always line the interior with plastic to further protect the wood vs soil vs leaching if you are sceptical. I am not a fan of a lot of chemicals either, just is, you need to know and understand what they are and what they do. Not just being a carrier for the finish, but the added hardening and possibly additive agents, as well as the considered solvents. Have been in the coating industry for over 30 years, master painter, and have seen/used solvents that can take a fully hardened brush, and bring it back to almost new in 15 min. Definitely want to stay away from those, though they tend to be more geared to commercial environments. Yet, I still read them in small amounts in some over the counter home products. Anyway, I digress, go read the material data sheet of anything you buy with chemicals if you have a concern, as some of you state. Or make your own product, that you consider food safe. Btw, water based poly is the same, after fully cured. Especially since the carrier is mostly water, but oil based are always more resilient. Oh, I never touched on the fact that boiled linseed takes forever to completely dry, hence combining it with tung oil, or pure turpentine, helps in the “drying” process. Btw, I like both the first and second burns, as they add the character to the wood depending on the look I would want, and/or the final piece I want to achieve.
Well the burn PLUS the seal in the form of oil only gives the wood a better chance of survival. You are extending the life with the addition of oil. Not necessary, but why go through the trouble of burning if you are not interested in getting maximum longevity?
@@TinyIndustrialburning the wood repels bugs and gets rid of soft wood while oil protects the wood from rotting. That's what I figured out from researching. Love the video
You have failed your experiment display 16 seconds in because you don't have a control. All different intensities of heat and all different finishes creates too many variables to effectively and definitively come to a conclusion. Unless the less obvious point was to showcase all the variables. FYI, there was no link to your other video in the actual video.
I'm not sure what you mean by 'control' in this case? The control would be an unburned plank, no? Or are you referring to having a plank burned yet untreated with anything? I think that I see your point. Was simply trying to give folks an idea of what different intensities might achieve in regard to look with a few finish options.
@@TinyIndustrial Hmm. All good ideas. But maybe a basic oak stain and un-burned plank. Basic. Boring. What it would look like if the average DIYer were to finish it.
If you stick your nose in the bottle....but not after it's been applied...or certainly not a day or two after application? You sure you're not using sesame oil? :)
Well, the best way is to best way is to burn all sides/edges of a piece of wood. That even heating minimizes the internal stresses that heating only one side causes. It's doesn't guarantee that there won't be any warping, but it does minimize it. What's the project you are thinking of doing?
Came here for this comment. I made a few dice trays for my Dungeons and Dragons group but the wood (used pine) got pretty warped on some of the trays. I thought maybe I should plane the wood after burning. Any idea if this would work?
Did you burn on all sides? Also the thinner the wood, the more prone to warping it would be. Maybe make the dice trays thicker and beefier. Usually adds to the esthetic when you do that too. Give it a try.
Great video, this is a very nuanced subject that deserves experimentation. I’m loving all the comments, I’d like to add to the conversation. I’ve messed around with this quite a bit, especially for exterior applications. I have mainly experimented with deep char. I plan to do more experimenting, however in an exterior application on dug fir with deep char is to dilute the linseed oil. I also recommend using a garden pump sprayer so that on the first coat or two you don’t blow off the char, using any wiping method ruins the char texture. First coat I’d do 40%lso to mineral spirits and flood it, it will the wood will rapidly pull the resin in, 2nd coat 60% linseed oil to minsprt, 3rd coat 75%linseed oil to mineral spirits and last full linseed oil. It’s all about getting the char and the wood fibers to pull in the the resin, the resin being the linseed oil. I tried this on some garden beds, dug fir with deep char and undiluted linseed oil, the char popped off on year three into year four. I rebuilt them, did this step progress and they are on year 4 in coastal New England weather and holding strong so far.
Thanks for that comment and for adding to the community aspect of these videos. Really appreciate your help sharing that. Love the sprayer idea and the dilution aspect.
Thank you for commenting on your method, I was looking to see if someone had used shousugi ban for outdoor beds and was wondering how to finish it. Do you think the mineral spirit dilution would be safe if I plan to grow vegetables in my garden beds? I am trying to find the safest options but it's been difficult
@@yatakadai that was my intention when I had built them in the first place. I plan to do a soil test before growing food in the beds so my experiment is currently on going. If I had to do it again, I would build them in the fall going into winter, so the finish would be able to off gas or dissipate and fill with soil in the spring. Instead of getting excited and filling them with soil so I can go onto the next project. We had planned to just grow flowers and what not in the soil we had for a few years as to let whatever pesticides and fertilizers in that soil dissipate. I also would do a gravel barrier going along the wood to keep the soil off the wood, allow it to stay drier by breathing. If, the mineral spirits are leaching into the soil, both letting the finish cure for a season and the gravel barrier might be a solution, all theoretical at the moment.
Clear, concise presentation. All, how to videos, should be like that. Congratulations.
Thanks you. That's nice of you to put that into a comment. I try to get better with every video. I don't always succeed. I guess this time I did.
The mid burn with linseed oil is awesome.
Thanks. Yes, that's the one I like too.
Great comparison video thanks for sharing! Working on a chicken coop with shou sugi ban finish right now.
One thing I found, a cheap deck brush from a big box store got me a much better brush job. Even with brass brush I found I kept gouging the wood. They are also large enough to brush a whole board in one go.
Would love to see the coop. Yes, a big deck brush could work well. Thanks for the comment.
Yeah, me too. Chicken coop! Good luck!
I’m just finishing a herringbone floor 22mm oak, with a 2 deep staggered brick bond edging in the same blocks that I’ve burnt, sanded and oiled. Only lightly sanded after a medium burn and wax oiled. It’s much better and far more aesthetically pleasing than an ebony stain. The tiled effect from the scorched edges is stunning even if I do say so myself. 😎
Oh good. Love hearing that people are doing these projects. It's such a cool method to make wood look spectacular as you have discovered.
Thanks for those techniques...somefhing i would take back to my village and try and apply them to the way we build our house there.
Well I hope that this becomes a big hit in your village. Where are you located? What would you use this technique for?
I prefer the dark burn with linseed.
I bet that with wear and weather, the patina will be awesome perhaps revealing more and more of the grain. I'd try that.
Yeah. Lately I'm trending darker myself.
You answered EVERY question I had. Wish I had wayched this BEFORE I started, still great beginning to end process! Love this. Thank you!!!
Excellent. I appreciate the feedback. Always trying to offer up good content. I'm glad it was helpful for you. What's the project you are looking to tackle with this?
I have to agree with you, I like the medium burn.
Thanks! I have secretly been liking the darker burns a bit more lately. Don't tell anyone though.
Top quality video, really couldn't be better. thanks a bunch!
Thank you. Glad it was helpful for you!
Muito bom. Obrigado por compartilhar tua experiência e conhecimento.
I also like using boiled linseed, but instead of the heavy brushing, I've found a light sanding is more rewarding to expose the grain.
Fair enough. Yes, it's really subjective. Everyone will have a personal preference. What's your project that you are doing with this?
When you touch the burned wood, did the black color your hands??? 😅
Light burn I like the best, shows more of the original wood mixed with the burnt
Thanks for adding a vote in the light burn column.
Awesome video. I have barn doors that I utilized inside for sliding to cover my entertainment center/bookshelves. Would you use linseed oil for indoors or something else
Great video thank you
Glad you enjoyed it. You doing a project involving this technique?
@TinyIndustrial Yes I am. I'm building a bourbon shelf out of pallet wood and finishing it using this technique
That will look good. How did it turn out? Happy with the result?
This was so very helpful. I might try this in my next beehive. Question: does this treatment help increase the R value of the wood? Grateful.
Hi. I'd be curious to know/see if bees would be ok with this. Burnt wood might be off-putting to the bees. I'd test it out with leaving some burnt wood by the entrance of the hive to see how the bees react, before building a hive using this process. Let me know how that turns out.
@@TinyIndustrial oh I don’t think so. A lot of beekeepers do this.
brushing off the carbon defeats the purpose of doing yaki sugi. If you are going for asthetics only, its fine. Otherwise, dont brush it. That burnt carbon is what increases protection.
Agreed, you are taking off some of the protection by brushing it. I have made raised beds/planters recently and didn't brush them. Also lead to a cool look without impacting the protection aspect (just oiled the burned wood).
@@TinyIndustrial yup, this works just fine. It's how I do it too.
I’d be interested in which provides the best long term protection
Hard to say. I know that intermittent application of linseed definitely works, since I have done that myself. All comes down to a number of factors like sun exposure, moisture, temperature, etc.
Great video....very helpful...thank you!!
Thanks! I'm glad you liked it. Any project you have in mind of doing with this process?
Question… I have some planters I built in the last few weeks but have not planted in yet. I simply used tung oil on them as a preservative but think it would be great to char the inside of the planters for added preservation. I charred a sample and the oil bubbles up and gets a beautiful even char. Will this still work for the preservation or am I too late? Anyone with experience / advice to preserve planter boxes? Thanks!
No, you're likely not too late. I would generally advise to do it the other way around though (burn and then oil). Planters look great when you use this technique, no?
Try using a flywheel attachment for your drill. Makes cleaning a lot faster and minimal tool marks and you can bring it down to a "toasted" colour.
Never tried that. You've had success with that method? I find the brushing not to be that hard...kind of like it. Also ok to not brush at all. Get that question a lot. :)
Can you speak to maintenance? I realize it will depend on climate. I live in Nova Scotia Canada, so a bit moist, salt in the air (by the ocean). Wondering when to expect my first maintenance, w2nd maintenance, etc… and what they will involve?
Hi. Maintenance that I have performed is reapplication of linseed oil on occasion. I think that the wood will 'let you know' when it needs something from a visual standpoint. This process certainly helps with preservation, but the chemicals in pressure treated wood are definitely more effective in that regard...but I would argue that pressure treated wood is really ugly to look at even if it's less maintenance.
I just picked up some 4x4 doug fir lumber. Very nice and recently milled. I assume it's pretty green, but haven't checked with meter. I'm curious about doing a partially outdoor pergola project with them now, and wondering if Shou Sugi Ban would be fine to do now while green, or should wait until more dry? Any thoughts appreciated!
Hi there. That's a good question. I would imagine that if the wood is drier, that it would be advantageous. That said, I don't really know. Maybe I would split the difference and let it dry out a bit more, but not so long that you never wind up doing the pergola. Are you going to document the burn and build? Would love to see what the end result looks like.
Does this have to be done on seasoned wood to prevent further shrinking?
Ideally the wood isn't very 'green'. Yes, the dryer the better. What project are you looking to tackle?
Hey man really great video thanks for sharing. I build saunas in British Columbia and I want to learn how to do this for our custom sauna models. I've reached out to some companies to see if I could hire them to teach me and they've all basically giving me the middle finger, so cheers for making this video. I'm going for a very dark look using Western red cedar. I also have purchased a nylon wheel brush . I guess my question is if I burn it really well, and don't wire brush all of it off will it achieve a darker look? I guess I'll have to experiment hey
Yes, the longer you burn and the less you brush, the darker the wood will be. That said, you will sacrifice some smoothness in the wood with a longer burn. You are on the right track regarding doing some experiments to get the burn/brush combo right. I'm also willing to provide private lessons on this in exchange for a plane ticket to BC and room n’ board. :)
@@TinyIndustrial hey that's super cool thanks for the offer. I don't know if I have the budget for such a trip though LOL where are you located anyway? Maybe we could do a teams meeting and I could pay you? I kind of want a rough finish I like the look of nylon wheeled brush too that pulls out the grain. I also think adding charcoal to the linseed oil would be a good idea. Might be difficult with the washing process. Maybe a good brushing and collection before and then washing after. I'll have to try it. Thanks for the reply as well
I believe the only burn that will significantly preserve the wood in this video was the darkest one.
@@jonmichaelroberts That is most likely to be the most long lived. Part of the excercise was to create a certain look and feel. The wood preservation was kind of secondary to the main point of this particular video.
I've charred the handle of a hand-tool of mine, but for the next step I was thinking if maybe a mixture of vegetable oil and ethanol could work for sealing the wood.
Could it be possible?
Not sure why you would want to use vegetable oil on this. Not sure that's a good idea. Go out and buy some linseed oil. I wouldn't experiment with Mazola on one of these projects.
Boiled Linseed is usually mixed with mineral turpentine which is much the same.
I use linseed oil mixed with honeybee wax. For wooden furniture, doors and so. Only, have to be wood, without any surface paint.
That's interesting. I'm sure that works great.
@@TinyIndustrial Its only what used our ancestors for several thousand years. Easy, you do not nead to mutch of this paste, and is always at home. You can see old furniture in castels and look still nice. 🙂 is only dark after several hundred or thousands years.
Whats your ratio? Just melt beeswax and mix in? Thanks!
@@amyk2966 Yes is easy - important is, boil oil before mix it with wax, for 15 min to change it to farm. Put it to shallow jar. You can use for application soft textil. The best is use iron - it put it deaper into wood. After only polish with textile. One or two years later, you can put second layer with textile, and polish. That is forever.
@@amyk2966 ratio is 1:1 depends how thick you want it, consistency something like wax for shoes
I'm a beekeeper, so I use raw limeseed oil mixed with beeswax and like the way that looks... medium to heavy burn unless it's eastern cedar with a nice grain pattern.
Very cool. I always thought that bees would be put off by the burn part, but glad to hear that they don't mind the scent.
i’ve used teak oil, and then spar varnish as a sealant coat. You could do the same with the polyurethane & either of those oils. nice video tho😊
Yup, any number options will work with this. Or do nothing at all. It's a pretty forgiving process. What have your projects been with this technique?
@@TinyIndustrial I've done a workbench that turned out ok, but I also did a small fence with cedar boards that turned out great. I'm looking at a couple of different projects to use this for next including more fencing, accent pieces in our home, and raised beds for the veggie garden. I appreciate you putting the different levels of burning into the video. I'm thinking to go with a more heavy char for the garden beds, but the fencing & accent pieces I'm looking to keep/show off the grain of the wood. I've also been thinking about using tung oil for the waterproofing and being a little less expensive than teak oil.
That's great that you are experimenting with different projects on this. It gets kind of addictive. I found this homemade chair build design that I tried out. Love the chair...had to put a Shuo Sugi spin on it though. Likely to be the next video that I release. Stay tuned and please subscribe if you haven't already. Thanks!
Hi!
What about protection from fire with oil, or without oil?
Do you know something about it? Can you make a test maybe?
Thanks
Hmmm. Not sure the oil really impacts that too much. I could do a test video. Thanks for the suggestion.
@@TinyIndustrial thanks! I waiting for that video.
I've built a pergola out of small oak logs, but I'm afraid it won't last in the rain. Should I remove the bark and burn the surface of the wood? thanks !
Burning will definitely help. Not sure how much additional time that will buy in terms of longevity, but I think that either way, burned wood looks a lot better than pressure treated any day of the week.
Danish oil is my choice. (Is this also known as teak oil?)
I think id go with med-dark burn. Like coffee! 😂 ❤❤❤
So for the beautiful colorful woods, can we just wire brush them to raise the grain then oil them for natural color? Is there any other process besides burning that can prep them like burning? Thanks for making these videos.
Yup, that's my choice too. Sanding and then oiling is an option too. The burn just adds a darker color and makes the wood look more interesting...also enhances the longevity of the wood.
We are doing our deck. What do you recommend coating it with that won’t be slippery?
Well the oiling of the wood would only leave the wood 'slippery' for a short while. Once the oil soaks in and any excess is wiped off, there is no more sheen or slipperiness. I just did a brand new video where I do a cedar plank with this method. That really looks the best to me. I worry a bit about cedar being kind of soft, but from a looks perspective, cedar (oiled) can't be beat. I was shocked how good it turned out (ua-cam.com/video/HAo9ZEt11Co/v-deo.html). Check that out. We are going to be doing a deck redo next spring here as well and I'm leaning heavily towards Shou Sugi Ban cedar as the material of choice. Are you using pine? I'm not sure I would trust that for extra long longevity...although it is reasonably inexpensive and plentiful. What are your thoughts?
Great test! Could I do a deck with this method, you think?
Definitely. I wouldn't suggest doing it to an existing deck, but if you are redoing a deck, yes, burn the planks on all sides, brush them and treat them with some oil and that should do it. Avoids all that nasty pressure treated wood or that Trex plasticky stuff (don't like it...do you?).
Instead of a wire brush I used a power washer. (Less elbow grease) But what I looking for talks preserving affect specifically underwater.
I find that diluting the linseed oil with mineral spirits helps with penetration and drying time. I find linseed oil on its own is too thick and takes forever to dry and it's clumpy if you try to sand. I do it at a 50/50 mix buy jug of each and just mix it into both jugs evenly and apply it Karate Kid Style oil on oil off, LOL I'll usually put on double the coats and I find it's much nicer looking and easier to work with as well as penetrating deeper and more evenly due to the mineral spirits just my opinion and how I do it at home with linseed oil as it's my go-to finish
Nice. Have never tried that or really felt a need to do that. I tend not to sand after application of the oil. Thanks for the tip!
Very good trick! Thanks for sharing it!
I do something similar, I do multiple coats raising the linseed oil concentration level to full on last coat, gives a deep crackle finish more durablity, especially in out door applications. It’s all about getting the oil to soak deep into the wood fibers and thoroughly through the char.
I have a silly question that I'm sure experienced woodworkers would find obvious but would mineral oil work for outdoor applications? My instinct says no but I figured I would ask
@@yatakadai do an experiment.
This looks great. I prefer the medium & dark. W.ill have to consider this for our new custom gates we just had made. TY for this video.
Yup, medium is my go to. Preserves the grain the best IMHO. Are you going to post any video of your gate project?
@@TinyIndustrial No, we won't do a video. Our carpenter already made the gates & they're beautiful. Is it too late to do this procedure since not every side of each piece of wood can be burnt? TY!
@@dw3992 Ahh. I see. Something to keep in your back pocket for the next project!
@@dw3992 I see. Well, definitely make sure you don't set the fence on fire and keep water an extinguishers nearby. If the fence is anywhere near a house, I definitely would not recommend unless you can remove the planks and scorch them separately in a safe way. Not burning all the sides, somewhat defeats the point since the weakest link will be the untreated sections. Not sure I would recommend you move ahead with doing this for those reasons.
try heavy++ burnt and heavy brushed version. brush till white color comes back
Can you point me to a video where someone is doing that?
Very helpful and intetesting. One quick question: cam we wash the wood afyer burning and before oiling? Thanks. Ciao from Treviso
Excellent. Glad the video was helpful for you. Yes, I think there are some videos where the wood gets 'washed'. I personally never bother with that step, but sure, go ahead and do that. I presume that the wood would need to fully dry before you add on any kind of oil though. What's the project you are looking to do?
@@TinyIndustrial well, at present my goal is just to put wood aside for future needs.where I live it is humid and therefore wood turns Roth if not treated. Ciao
Error. Roth is wrong word. I intended "rotten". Thx. Ciao
Gotcha.
What is the unwire brushed heavy alligator skin like to oil? Is there a danger of the burnt layer coming off during oiling or handling after. Nice video ❤
Yes, there is. I have had some people reference that they use a paint sprayer to apply coatings to the delicate alligator skin variant and supposedly that works well. I can't confirm that though.
Definitely medium burn with linseed oil. Great show
Yay! Team medium burn...welcome to the tribe. Do you have a project in mind for this technique?
The idea behind this is to have a beautiful way to preserve the wood for a very long time. I believe the poly urethane will not hold up, outside, exposed to weather too long before it needs to be re-coated. Please advise.
Yeah, poly is not my first choice. Oil and occasionally reapplying the oil I find to be the best method. Kind of the way you would treat teak backyard furniture to maintain it's looks and longevity.
What do you recommend for maximum protection against constant sun? I want to use for an outdoor table but don’t want to refinish every year. Any of these options weather well compared to others for a table application?
Maximum protection would be simply using pressure treated wood. If you want to employ this method you kind of have to be open to a bit more maintenance. In exchange you get a much nicer (and earth friendly) finish on the wood, that looks a whole lot sexier than pressure treated. It's all a bit of a trade off.
Which method would prevent the least amount of dust from getting onto your clothes if you sit against it? Or what extra steps would you do to prevent the black dust from getting on your clothes?
The application of the oil and subsequent wiping down of the material clears 98% of any reside. When left in the elements for a while, it eliminates any remnants of dust that could come off on clothes. White linen pants maybe aren't recommended though...
@TinyIndustrial thanks! Also, thoughts on Refined Linseed versus Boiled versus...? Which linseed is best? Some are more expensive than others...
If you don't like the wood burn, can you sand it out? I bought a table that was done in that technique but I've decided to use it in an area of the house where the burn look doesn't look good. Can I just sand it down?
Yes, the more you sand, the more you will reveal the unburned wood underneath. You can actually sand until you like the shade you are getting. How much you have to sand off depends on the burn depth. Hope that helps?
Good video, Thanks!
? Does the BLO dry so it's doesn't rub off and how long does that take (say on warm sunny days)?
? Does the BLO last long outdoors, exposed to weather and the sun?
? Have you ever tried applying 2-3 coats of the BLO then lightly running the torch over it to polymerize the oil?
Thanks very much!
So the BLO mostly soaks into the wood. Wood is like a sponge for it. On a warm sunny day it happens within 15 to 20 min. Wipe of any excess. Excess is kind of your indicator that you have applied enough. Yes, the BLO lasts for quite a while outdoors. Kind of like teak furniture, the wood will dry out and it helps to reapply every so often. The heating after application is one thing you can do, I also have seen others warm the BLO before applying it. I think that both methods help with the absorption. I'm not a chemist, so I can't really speak to the polymerization of the oil. Anyone else on here know about that?
@@TinyIndustrial Thanks for the reply! I think warming the wood before applying helps too, by opening the pores up. I'd guess there would be some polymerization if you could get it to the right temperature. It's what occurs with "seasoning" a cast iron pan with oil, like flax, etc. It's what makes it stick to the surface and densify given the non-stick result. I'll give the heat treatment of the BLO, once applied on some SPF lumber and let you know if it made a difference.
@@wingnutbert9685 That all makes sense. Would be interested in seeing how that goes!
You're just answered my question on your Q&A...
Happy that it was helpful. What's your project?
@@TinyIndustrial
I'm cladding an porch, I was going to used Siberian larch but I really like the idea of shou sugi ban,my question that you answered was should I burn the wood all round as its untreated and will be used outside in the British climate?
@@grahamfletcher5320 I see. Yup, burn all surfaces. Has a number of benefits, albeit a bit more work. I would also still apply a liberal coat of linseed oil for added longevity and protection. Good luck with the project!
@@grahamfletcher5320 I see. Ok, well I hope that the project turns out great. Always be safe working with fire! That's my PSA for the day. :)
Great video! Do I need to burn all sides if i want to install it outside on My house? I Mean, if you dont burn it all way around, will i rotten on the back?
Ideally yes. I reference that towards the end of this video. Did you not see it? There are two main reasons for doing so: 1) protection of the wood 2) warping and twisting of the wood from non-uniform application of heat. What's the project you are doing?
I don't care what it looks like. I want to use this technique to preserve the lumber I make my raised garden beds out of. I think I should go with at least medium but would a heavier burn be more durable?
Yes, go for a heavier burn. Some have said not to take it too far though since you start to impact the integrity and strength of the wood with too aggressive a burn. Will you be documenting your raised beds on UA-cam?
@@TinyIndustrial It's done. and the wood soaked up the Linseed oil like a sponge. I have my doubts that this will work, but the wood was so cheap I couldn't resist. It would make for a good vdeo to see how long it will last, but it would need to have a 'control' to see how much better it performs than doing nothing special. I appreciate your efforts.
Wood soaking up the oil is a good start. Pretty chilly up north here and temp tends to play a roll too. The warmer it is the better. Some will even warm up the oil before applying it. Not sure how much that really helps. Again, thanks for the comments..
Good video, my feedback is even though the alligator skin look isn’t for you, you should have shown us how that would have turned out. I love that look, and I especially I wonder how it finishes and if it rubs off or is delicate…
True. I may go back and do a video specifically on that. Would that be helpful?
If using oil finish on ext it attracts mildew fast being a natural,organic material
Is that a question or a comment? I haven't experienced any mildew on treated surfaces with this method, have you?
I was replacing old deck boards and found the foundation boards rotten, no termites. Should I oil the support boards before and after burning? No for looks but for long lasting.
Again, no oiling before the burn. Also, are the old deck boards pressure treated? In that case I would neither burn nor oil them, since pressure treated wood does not lend itself to this process at all. Also, do not do a burn on an installed deck either way. You might set your house on fire doing so. Only burn wood that isn't attached to anything (i.e. loose only). Make sense?
Would this method work to preserve wood cookies for a pathway? I would assume I would have to do all sides then as well…
Cookies sitting on the ground would last a bit longer using this method, but any wood in contact with the wet ground is going to be problematic. In a desert environment perhaps you would see some increased gains due to limited moisture and that the fact that the bugs will be put off (for a while) by the burnt wood.
Would you recommend the linseed technique for a butcher block bathroom countertop
Maybe...but probably not. I would more likely seal in a countertop for a bathroom for some kind of acrylic or epoxy. The reason for that is that you might wind up with some not so nice stains on a surface that is only treated with the oil. It would also likely be a bit hard to keep clean. Wiping toothpaste or similar would be kind of pain I would imagine. Once you seal the burn under some form of smoother and more robust coating, that would likely make is easier and better to enjoy the beauty of the burnt wood.
Just a thought but had you had a 4th board that was not burnt for reference for us to see the amount of color that came out, it would help. I may need to ‘sell’ this idea to my wife.
Ahh. yes. Good idea. I'll keep that in mind for future videos. Check out some of my other videos on the channel regarding this process. You may find one that resonates better with your wife. :)
Some of our planks have print on them should I sand it off before burning or experiment with the burn on them?
Ah yes...
Why would you not rub in the polyurethane spray like you did for the others?
As a spray on product it is intended to coat and harden in place. It's a different thing than the oils which are intended to soak into the wood. Much like if I had used spray paint on the wood, I would not smooth that out with a brush either. Same holds true for a clear coat of poly-urethane...it resides more on the surface vs. soaking in.
Great!
Thanks!
I’ve long thought about burning the wood over a bed of charcoal. Any thoughts?
Sure, that works. The blow torch to me is simply the easiest way to do this and to have control over the process. Burning over an actual fire is more a purist move. Go for it. Let me know how that goes.
How to prevent bending/ bowing?
When you burn all sides, I takes care of that pretty efficiently. Burning only one side will lead to bowing. What project are you considering for this?
@@TinyIndustrial used a mahogany plank as trial run but it was only one side. Will try both sides. Going for outdoor privacy fence. Do you assemble them first then heat treat it or heat treat individual pieces followed by assembly?
I would always burn everything first and then assemble after. Otherwise, where there are joints or pieces mounted together, you will get areas that aren't treated and they will be subject to premature deterioration.
The trick is to burn 3 in a triangle vertically tied together with wire, starting a fire at the bottom. When it gets to the top you cut the wire and immediately wash heavy with a hose. Suyaki or alligator finish is considered the best but its all objective. Wash off alll the soot right after burning, let dry, then apply a penetrating oil finish. Never brush in my opinion. The boards dont cup as long as you burn fast, hot, and wash off to complete the process. Missing any step and it will warp. If youre getting white ash you burned too long or in one area too much
@@chompers11 yup. That's the traditional method.
Is this the same technique you would used for burred 4x4 Douglas fir posts?
Yes it is (non-pressure treated).
how long will this wood last? i was thinking of building a house and doing this with the logs will this make it last 100 years or more?
It will 'extend' the life of the wood. How long depends on a lot of different factors, including, but not limited to, the depth of the burn, post burn application of oils, weather conditions, exposure to sun and water, etc. Hard to say exactly for those reasons. 100 years or more seems like a stretch though. Do this because you 1) like how it looks 2) want to avoid pressure treated lumber chemicals 3) hope to gain a 'bit' more longevity out of the wood used. Make sense?
will any of these methods work on treated lumber?
As in pressure treated lumber? no... don't do it. That would is already preserved with icky and unnatural chemicals (which you don't want to heat up).
Can this type of Treatment be used on Pressure Treated Wood?
No! Definitely not. Pressure treated has a ton of chemicals in it and does not work with this preservation process. Think of pressure treated as the 'non-organic' way of preserving wood. Hope that clears it up for you.
Interesting. My first video on the issue.
Thanks. It's a process that once you do a project or two with it, it gets to be a go to method for preserving wood and the look of it will likely grow on you. What's a project you could envision doing for this?
@TinyIndustrial , I might try burning some cedar boxes after planing them. I normally just use raw 2" cedar for above ground gardening. They might spice up the look of the garden.
Is this for an outdoor deck?
It could be! Could be siding. Could be a fence. Could be furniture. Whatever you want to make with it. What do you want to make with it?
Why just a light scrubbing? I ask because a more intense scrubbing with an nylon/nyalox brush, either hand or drill attachment, will sway you to the alligator burn because it burns the hardwood more, and the softwood, with a good scrubbing, creates a massive contrast and more texture.
Yes, I think that there are a number of things that are worth experimenting with. Although I have done a number of projects with this, I still always feel that there are a lot more variations to explore. What video would you like to see me do in that regard?
was wondering of you used a wire wheel on a drill and went lightly rather than a wire brush or would you get swirl marks anybody know?
I don't know. I think that you might wind up roughing up the grain of the wood. May not lead to a desirable result. Have you tried it? Would love to hear how/if it works.
I hope people do their research and understand it is possible that the two lighter burns may not preserve much, mainly aesthetic at that point as I understand and probably would not use the term.
Right. Helps a bit. All about what your goal is. I'm just trying to illustrate the different looks you can achieve.
Can polyurethane be applied after applying tar for termite protection?
Hmm. likely not. I would use tar and termite protection in place of poly.
@@TinyIndustrial what do you use to waterproof them?
@@TaLeng2023 the burning is the part that protects/seals the wood. The application of oil just enhances that. There is no further waterproofing needed.
When using for weatherproofing, not just appearance, how long/how hot do you need to burn? And if you brush it off, arent you removing some of the weather protection?
No the idea is that you remove the softer cellulose out of the wood. That is what the bugs eat and the part that starts on fire the fastest. Its no problem to sand it.
@@greatitbroke any idea where I can find the science on this? I'm looking for the weather/water proofing... how much can I send off? How deep to burn, DETAILS lol. I want to use for siding on my house.
It's more of an art than a science. It offers chemical free protection for the wood. How much protection you get depends on all sorts of variables. Type of wood. How green the wood is. How deep the burn is. etc. It's a good thing to experiment with. Will it last as long as a piece of pressure treated wood? Probably not, but it looks a whole lot nicer and and isn't as carcinogenic.
Do you need to do another top coat over the oil ones
No, not really. You could do an oil refresh after a year or so. Either way, you have massively extended the life of the wood if it is going to be in some way exposed to the elements.
Can you used a sawn timber as apposed to plained would it get the same effect?
Thanks
Yes, it's really just about how much you burn the wood. The longer you burn a rougher surface, the smoother it will be after you wire brush the debris off. What are you thinking of doing with this technique.
I have been offers some sawn larch planks,to clad a new porch.
Excellent! Good project.
It is yakisugi= burned cedar not shou sugi ban that term is more western than japanese Thanks for sharing.
Thank you!
Your secret is safe with me!
Oh good. :)
Hi, Thanks for the content. Easy to follow and informative, good atmosphere, simple and relaxed, but serious about the subject. Appreciate it!
One question: With oil, how often should it be re-applied? What are the signs to look for to know when it is time to "re-coat"?
Thanks.
Hard to say. I would think that once per year would be sufficient in regard to recoating. Thank for checking out the content and for the kind words. Are you planning a project with this technique?
@@TinyIndustrial Thanks for the answer.
Yes, I just bought a big piece of land in Northern Ontario and am planning to build a house and several cabins on it with different construction materials and technics.
As a follow-up question, do you know if burnt wood is ever used as a below grade treatment for wood posts?
I have seen some videos where the technique is used on fence posts. Not sure if it held up in that kind of scenario. Bottom line is that burning the wood will always get you some additional longevity...how much is the question and whether or not it's worth it. I employ the technique for looks and to extend the life.
Ever tried the old motor oil/diesel finish? I'm going to have to try it as I love the way it mellows wood
Thank you so much for suggesting that. I just shot a video using that method. Will be posting it shortly! Much appreciated. Keep the suggestions coming.
How do you prevent wood cupping after the burn?
Burn both sides...it minimizes cupping. The cupping and bending is mostly caused by heat being applied unevenly to a piece of wood.
Why did the term 'sho sugi ban' spread?
In Japanese it's "yaki sugi" 😅.
I wonder if google translate got it wrong?
Yup, this is a common comment. I try to use both terms since people search on what they 'think' something is called and not on the actual name of it.
Medium,linseed
That's exactly how I roll. Nice to see I'm in good company. Check out my new video on the topic. I make a chair with this technique: ua-cam.com/video/4CptSIvWJ3Q/v-deo.htmlsi=MAZWLi2IUhg0kSpN
Medium burn!
I'm with you on that one. You going to try this for a project you have in mind?
Thoughts on mineral oil? Anyone?
Yeah...any experience with that? Linseed is my go to.
Yakisugi, not shou sugi ban.....
Yes, yes, I know. People search for Shou Sugi Ban though and I like showing up in searches vs. being 'correct'. Gotta pay the bills you know?
light burn
Fair enough. It's all subjective. Any project in mind?
3:00 💪🏻
Rapid fire.
I prefer the light burn. Gives the wood more character.
Fair enough. It's totally a preference thing. I can add though that it's a 'bit' more difficult to get an even light burn on a piece of wood than a darker one. What project are you considering with this?
@@TinyIndustrial yeah I take it back. You were right, the middle is best. I seen it on a floor and it just too much. Too busy to look at ya know.
You came around to the dark side...Thanks!
Burning to the pointnof the alligator skin weakens the integrity and isnt recommended. If you want to preserve the grain of the wood you can use a heavy nylon deck brush instead
Sure. There is a trade off here. Some people are looking to preserve the wood (primary focus). Others are trying to make it look nice. Depending on what your goals are, one method may make more or less sense. Deeper vs. lighter and so on.
ua-cam.com/video/xy0o6f7h0oQ/v-deo.htmlsi=0YKs3xJPcaC0NUut - yakisugi
Yes...but a lot of people search for it under Shou Sugi Ban....and I like when my video's get found. :)
@@TinyIndustrial indeed a good video it is nice work.
Thanks!
Heavy burn, heavy linseed
Fair enough. I have been tending towards the darker burns lately myself.
I'll take the free option of no finish or if money is no object, boiled linseed oil as long as that's the only ingredient. My concern with the finish when using them for raised beds, planter boxes, or outdoor siding, is what happens when it eventually starts to deteriorate? I'm using this method to avoid toxic chemicals in the first place and weather seal the wood naturally so I don't have to worry about polluting the environment further; babies are already born with plastic microparticles in their bloostream, that's a toxic enough planet for me.
Plenty of plant based coatings out there. Vermont natural coatings carry’s tons
Totally agree that there are too many chemicals used. I agree with the comment though that using the burn to help preserve the wood is already eliminating chemicals from that process. Adding some linseed oil doesn't really seem that bad for me. Totally understand that if this is to be in a planter, you want to be careful.
I like the lightly burned variants best. I can’t see much difference in the surfaces with regard to the products usedto finish them. I have watched some shou sugi ban videos which used food colours and they looked good too ! 👍
Shou Sugi Ban means burnt cedar. Use cedar, burn it 1/4" deep and your wood will last 100 years without a finish. Just don't do a heavy sandback.
Always misconceptions. If you want linseed oil, then you will use RAW linseed oil not boiled, as the boiled process uses chemicals to achieve that. If you want an oil finish, then a “food” safe is raw linseed with pure tung oil, which the tung oil will help dry/harden the oils. Of course you would need to apply about 4 coats each season, no different then doing a butcher block. Whereas butcher block finishes can have bees wax or a combination of waxes with those oils.
As for another misconception, fully cured poly will not leach chemicals, as the only thing left behind in its hardened state are the resins, or acrylic resin mix. Of course you need to wait the full 3-4 weeks for it to cure before adding soil. Once cured ( after 2-3 coats with 24 hours drying time in between), you could always line the interior with plastic to further protect the wood vs soil vs leaching if you are sceptical.
I am not a fan of a lot of chemicals either, just is, you need to know and understand what they are and what they do. Not just being a carrier for the finish, but the added hardening and possibly additive agents, as well as the considered solvents. Have been in the coating industry for over 30 years, master painter, and have seen/used solvents that can take a fully hardened brush, and bring it back to almost new in 15 min. Definitely want to stay away from those, though they tend to be more geared to commercial environments. Yet, I still read them in small amounts in some over the counter home products.
Anyway, I digress, go read the material data sheet of anything you buy with chemicals if you have a concern, as some of you state. Or make your own product, that you consider food safe. Btw, water based poly is the same, after fully cured. Especially since the carrier is mostly water, but oil based are always more resilient. Oh, I never touched on the fact that boiled linseed takes forever to completely dry, hence combining it with tung oil, or pure turpentine, helps in the “drying” process.
Btw, I like both the first and second burns, as they add the character to the wood depending on the look I would want, and/or the final piece I want to achieve.
10:52
Indeed :)
Why seal it anyway, the whole point of this is that it’s a natural preservative
Well the burn PLUS the seal in the form of oil only gives the wood a better chance of survival. You are extending the life with the addition of oil. Not necessary, but why go through the trouble of burning if you are not interested in getting maximum longevity?
@@TinyIndustrialburning the wood repels bugs and gets rid of soft wood while oil protects the wood from rotting. That's what I figured out from researching. Love the video
Yup, that's exactly right. Thanks for the comment.
Light burn
That's the one you like? Are you doing a project with this or what's your specific interest in the process?
You have failed your experiment display 16 seconds in because you don't have a control. All different intensities of heat and all different finishes creates too many variables to effectively and definitively come to a conclusion. Unless the less obvious point was to showcase all the variables. FYI, there was no link to your other video in the actual video.
I'm not sure what you mean by 'control' in this case? The control would be an unburned plank, no? Or are you referring to having a plank burned yet untreated with anything? I think that I see your point. Was simply trying to give folks an idea of what different intensities might achieve in regard to look with a few finish options.
@@TinyIndustrial Hmm. All good ideas. But maybe a basic oak stain and un-burned plank. Basic. Boring. What it would look like if the average DIYer were to finish it.
Linseed oil - no that stuff stinks!
If you stick your nose in the bottle....but not after it's been applied...or certainly not a day or two after application? You sure you're not using sesame oil? :)
@@TinyIndustrial yep I’m sure I did not, nor did I stick my nose in the bottle - sesame oil smells much better!
@@marahfanning2879 Ok, fair enough. There are other oils you can use.
worst application of a spray on poly i have ever seen
Yeah, it was pretty bad. Not sure what was up with that nozzle...
DONT DRINK THE KOOL AID! You’re old enough to know better.
I liked them all.
What? Not sure I follow. I'll hone in on the "I liked them all" comment. :)
@@TinyIndustrial Jim Jones in Jonestown French Guiana. He killed all his cult followers with Kool Aid.
Is there any way to prevent warping?
Well, the best way is to best way is to burn all sides/edges of a piece of wood. That even heating minimizes the internal stresses that heating only one side causes. It's doesn't guarantee that there won't be any warping, but it does minimize it. What's the project you are thinking of doing?
Came here for this comment. I made a few dice trays for my Dungeons and Dragons group but the wood (used pine) got pretty warped on some of the trays. I thought maybe I should plane the wood after burning. Any idea if this would work?
Did you burn on all sides? Also the thinner the wood, the more prone to warping it would be. Maybe make the dice trays thicker and beefier. Usually adds to the esthetic when you do that too. Give it a try.