First Time Hardline Water Cooling, How Hard Can It Be? | Lian Li O11D XL EK Reflection Distro Plate
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- Опубліковано 18 вер 2024
- I’m one of those soft line guys, hard line always seemed like more trouble than it was worth. But sometime you just have to try something new so I took my 3950x and 2080ti PC and rebuilt it hardline style.
EK-Quantum Reflection
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Lian Li 011D XL
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X570 Aorus Master
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EK-Quantum Momentum X570 Aorus Master Monoblock
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EVGA 2080Ti
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EK-Quantum Vector RTX RE Ti Waterblock
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G.Skill Trident Z Neo
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Love how brutally honest you are with your building skills and cable management. Nice job.
Congrats on the new build. Looks great!
Love the straight line look of the tubes, it feels more industrial than having bends all over the place. Also nice shirt, O-H!!!
I just found your video, I'm fresh from building my own custom loop on hard tubes. Previously, I had only experience with soft tubes and I have to admit that hard tubes look a lot better, but require a lot more careful planning and measuring than soft tubes. That's why I understand exactly what you were going through. I used almost 15m of tubes to build my I just found your video, I'm fresh from building my own custom loop on hard tubes. Previously, I had only experience with soft tubes and I have to admit that hard tubes look a lot better, but require a lot more careful planning and measuring than soft tubes. That's why I understand exactly what you were going through. I've wasted almost 15m of tubes to build my system 🤣 In the end, I focused on one bend for each tube and saved myself with angled adapters.
Best regards
That cable organisation made my soft line tubing hard line...
;)
Giggidy!
LMAO
With that front, I would have chosen a transparent fluid so u could see through and into the pc hardware. Also yes the tubes need to be parallel, if u can't make the 90 bends sharp enough maybe use a separate elbow that takes care of the bend.
agree with see through!
I personally like white fluid for watercooling. you can still changed the colours on your build without having to worry about the fluid colour. :)
But to solve the croocked tube in the top, why not just use 2, 3 or 4cm extension and put a 90° fitting on there. That should solve your issue instantly and save you 70-100$ for a new radiator ;)
i have the distro plate in the O11D and i would be happy if i'd have chosen solid fluid instead of transparent. you dont get much out of the see through thingi
Imo the Front plates are always better with transparent fluid
yeah keep an eye on that fluid, opaque fluid TENDS to have issues down the line, with particle seperation, gunking etc. I'm about to use cryofuel when I flush and upgrade to the AMD 4000, but with Mayhems I had issues after only a few months. I know Cryofuel is sentitive to alot of things in the loop also. Where I'm dreading doing my clean up since I gotta do a good rinse, etch of my system
M.H.: "If you came to this video for some tips and tricks........I can't help ya"
Also M.H.: "I got a little trick though"
Subscribed for more non-trick tricks
If you take it apart in the future to fix couple of runs, Order some of those offset fittings to get them straight. Some extensions + 90's would not hurt either!
As much as this is appealing the prices for the fittings arent, 90 degree white bitspower goes for 14.99$ a piece.
Custom printed clear hard-line!
Add this to the printing queue, I'd love to see how it turns out!
That's gonna leak for sure, better off printing bend guides
@@PhyNxFyre shhh. don't tell him.
Everything falling apart is the fun part!
@@gregcarterii2357 its actually quite easy to make a PLA printed thing water proof. I made a printed submarine that was in a chlorinated pool most of a day and the inside compartment was still dry.
Now the printing in clear is impossible. You can get translucent but not perfectly clear.
@@shadowOrgon but do you really want to test it with hundreds if not thousands of dollars worth of electronics at risk?
Glad to see you pumping out content so frequently lately, I enjoy watching smaller creators who are up and coming, That new printer is a little beast, I've been wanting to get into 3D printing myself. Definitely a candidate for a first printer!
im really like it
what would help you with that top bend would be if you got the thermaltakes rfb bit for the size of your tubes. i like it because it is like a drill bit that you use to de-bur the tube but if you set it correctly it will also shave down the tube so you can cut a few metric smidgens off. it really helps to straighten the tubes with. another thing that i think will be helpful is the EK leak tester kit. i'm surprised they never sent you one. it's like a tire gauge of sorts that you use to pump air into the loop and check for leaks. i usually block off all of the holes when i set my build up and test the drain port every time i add a new tube so i know its airtight as i go and i won't have to guess which tube is the culprit.
Nice job! Yeah, the runs aren't all parallel, but for a first attempt, looks great. I agree with some of the other commentors, that you can eliminate that tight bend at the top with some fittings, which would get that top run straighter.
The top run coming from the top radiator along the fans is driving me crazy.
everything looks fairly straight but then you got that one... ugh. awesome friken build tho. def gave me some confidence.
I don't recommend pastel/solids for a first timer. I hope you don't have fallout. Solids look great, but you have to do an insane amount of prep work and have a little bit of luck. I have used mayhems pastels 4 different times and never had issues, but if you follow the /r/watercooling sub, you'll see people have so many issues with solids falling out(and it usually deals with EK solids, and I use their fittings and tubing). Also get an air tester, it makes testing so much easier and saves so much time if you do have a leak at any point (like redoing your loop). If you want to make your stuff more parallel, either grab some 90 degree fittings or a 45 rotary with a long extender coming off the rad so you can just run a straight line without a curve.
You've given me confidence to try hard tubing as well. I think I will consider using fittings instead of bends in some places though, like the way it came out of your radiators; I think it would have looked better with a 90' fitting on an extender piece.
DId it turn out well?
110%
Dude how you only have 44k subs get this man 100k
O11D best case ever. Having one myself, i'm just waiting for new GPU and then i'm gonna do it.
I agree with what Ed George said about using 90 deg fittings for the runs on the top and bottom rads. With 90 deg fittings you would not need to worry about the tightness of the bends and having the tubes come out at an angle because you could also use fitting extenders to make up the difference. With that being said I think that this build came out fantastic. I really like the subdued white and black theme and I think that the simple straight runs look really clean and elegant. But please fix those cooked runs because I'm afraid that they will put stress on the O-rings and end up leaking water everywhere.
coming from a 15 year old, the first time I did hardline tubing was really hard. it took a while to plan everything. But with my second build, I hardly wasted nor messed up any acrylic tubing. It's very fun to do.
Quick note while you're mentioning the runs not being parallel: The bottom rad run caught my eye first as it does look like it's a few degrees off. But that top rad run looks super sketchy at that angle. I was hoping it was the camera angle throwing it off, until you mentioned it. It's not just about aesthetics, if the tubes aren't perfectly alligned inside the fittings then they're not making proper contact with the inner washer, leaving the outer washer as the only thing between you and a very bad day.
The way you used a 90 degree fitting for the CPU return to the distro plate, you could do the same with both of the rads, along with some spacers, to get the runs straight...
That said, props on O11D XL, mine's the non-XL in white and I love it. Ditto on the cloud white EK coolant, been running it for a few months and it looks great.
I did copper pipes many years ago for air conditioning. The trick is to design it with one bend per pipe, then use an angle connector on the otherside. Bend, then cut.
Finally, welcome to the hardline world! For a 3950X and 2080Ti the question is practically “How could you *not* use hardline?” i mean that is like $2000 USD already
just as I was thinking "don't linus those glass plates" the bottle drops XD
The front cover reservoir looks amazing. Might attempt to turn my aircool 011 XL into a watercool setup after this!
I gotta give it to y ou man, bout time someone who dont know how to do this stuff well actually owns up to it. myself i see alot of mistakes in what you did but youre new to the stuff and you dont try to play off that you know what youre doing. props for that man, practice practice practice man.
Dude you killed it! Great build! Your editing skills have definitely been turned up. The que in with the B roll shot with the music was really enjoyable the white fluid actually helped light up the interior a lot. Good job can’t wait to see what you got coming up next!
The ONE bend that does drive me crazy are the tubes running from the distro plate to the top rad - but you DON'T need "a thinner radiator"; just throw some G¼ extensions on the existing rad (to come down just past the fans) then put some 90° elbows on them - (Bykski even makes one-piece extension 90's in different lengths). That would allow you to just use straight tubes over; (judging by the distro end, it looks like there'd still be enough clearance for the fans to run).
That small change (which would require practically no work) would make a HUGE difference in the appearance.
I need to increase my Patreon so you can afford a drill that isn’t made by Black and Decker... lol jkjk another great video.
I think I need to join Patreon so he can buy a camera that stays in focus.
You are joking about increasing the money but he seriously needs some good tools
I'm using a drill that's made by noname, china, replaced the 1Ah nickel battery with a lithium one, and it chooches well.
my next plan is making my own, using an ac one and a brushelss motor with sensors.
imo a drill's a drill as long as it has enough power.
@@satibel chooches
James Holbrook at least I’m a Patreon. You should consider supporting him too if you enjoy his content. He has like $12 in Patreon support,
yeh man you literally inspired me to do my own hardline cooling and didn't ever know about distro plates after i found out about thoise made it so much easier! also just the very top piping i'd change
I know this is an older video, but this is a very similar build to what I'm working on! The monoblock, the Auros Master X570 and the Lian Li Dynamic case. Its been a pleasure to watch this video. Keep up the great work man!
And the same SDRAM!!! My MAN!!!
Good first hard-line work. One tip from experience, those long straight runs with short 90 legs at the end. The short 90 end is where it will pop off if you have too much pump.
MCP35x2 at 100% blew a hose out and showered my whole kitchen while leak testing:)
Switched to dual D5, redesigned loop so both ends are captive and cannot blow out, no more issues, same flow rate.
Use as few 90 fittings as possible if using 1 pump, they do, measurably and meaningfully reduce flow as the numbers get high (7 or more).
Don't be afraid to use more fittings. Yes, they will raise the cost of the overall build but will allow for more granular adjustments and flexibility, especially in spots where there is little to no room for a straight run of tubing from one location to another. You can even use only fittings, or very small tube runs, to connect the distro plate to your radiators if you rotate your radiators so the inlet/outlet(s) are closer to the distro plate.
After everything you've done to date I can't believe this is your first hardline build. Turned out well.
I actually really liked the 3d printed channel look for soft tubing. If I ever decide to do a full custom loop I might borrow that idea and might try some thin aluminum sheathing around the back of the soft tubing.
I did my first watercooled build last year and jumped right into hardline. To be honest, I think having a distro plate makes it harder to have a clean looking build because there are so many bends to line up that run parallel to each other. I went with a simple pump res combo and the combination of vertical and horizontal tubing masks the slight imperfections really well. Regardless, your build is super cool and I'm glad you had fun making it!
I am 50/50 on the distro plates, I love the look of this but damn that pump block is absurdly costly. I actually kinda like the look of softline better than hardline to be honest. Hardline looks to blocky for me. I like more curvy water lines.
For your first attempt, it looks great & most importantly it don't leak! 😎
One of the few people on the planet who got an x570 master that actually works 😂
Greetings.
You asked if something about this build bothered me. ...and yes... it's the airpocket in the distroplate where the tube from the graphics card comes in... I think it looks odd because of the many experiences I made with similar small amounts of air like this in small containers (with acrylic paint for instance). It always got kinda stale after some time. I would try to avoid air pockets like this and also if it was non moving coolant.
I just watched a youtube video about some vacuum forming device where the maker formed some plastic sheets around 3d printed parts. Some of the printed parts where melting.
When I watched Your video I had the idea that You will be 3d printing some jigs for making unusual tube bends. To prevent the 3d printed parts from melting you could use some aluminium foil or cloth or leather or so... maybe that's not even neccessary...
godspeed
Your top one that's close to the fan. You can use a 90 degree EK fitting (they look gorgeous btw) to the distro plate and then have the hard tube fitting fit on that 90 and you might get a parallel run on top with the fans.
All you need to to do to fix your top and bottom rad runs, i.e. make them straight, is get a couple 90 or 45 degree fittings and a small width extender if needed which you can measure. Same for the CPU a 90 or possibly a 45 degree fitting will make your top run a single bend. Phankteks @ Titan Rig has the nicest rotary angle fittings and they are fitting not adaptors so they do not require anything but themselves. Phanteks Glacier 12mm Hard Tube 90 Degree Rotary Fitting or Phanteks Glacier 12mm Hard Tube 45 Degree Rotary Fitting. I would not use a fitting adaptor like the ones suggested below they will end up costing more since they require two fittings and they add more leak points. Good job on your first Hard Line build m8!
If youre running out of storage and still have your old rig, use that as a storage server. I did that myself with an old office pc from 2006 and using it as smarthome server and file server and its working perfectly.
With windows on it you can create a file share and access it through network or put linux on it (i prefer manjaro linux, but ubuntu and such will also work), intall samba, configure a share and you have the same as with windows but use less ressources, that you can use for the modded minecraft server you never wanted :D
A combined distribution plate with reservoir and pump seems really smart. What would be even better is if there was a controller integrated with temp and flow sensor and controller for the radiator fans for silent mode!
I think these plates could also be more simple, just a thinner straight run going from bottom to top.
Alternatively I'd like an giant external radiator with reservoir, temp, flow sensor and pump and fan controller integrated. Just something you put on top of your PC case that makes the rest of the build a little easier.
Congratulations on a successful first hardline water cooling build
Well homey I like the soft tubing on your rig . Nicely done. I don't have the patience for hard tubing , Ill have garden hoses in my case before attempting that. PS-You need a corsair 1000-D , You'll love it.
I'd go totaly insane with bends on the "spare" tubes and just try to make a rollercoaster..
just to see what would be possible.
Imagine a little corkscrew in the case.. i'd love that
well done, another option if the top line bothers you is to come out of the distro plate, do a 90 down, then another 90, and run straight to the rad.
FYI - I'm pretty sure the CPU INLET port on the distro plate is meant to go to the CPU INLET of the BLOCK (thus you have it backwards) and not require that complicated of bends to connect.
You could use a mish mash of 60 degrees fittings on the distro plate side to line up the lines who canot be straight due to the bend being too close to the fitting of the radiator. I don't know if you know that but the 60degrees fitting from alphacool are a straight fitting screwed into a piece to angle the straight fitting. Neat to salvage.
looks good. the only thing driving me nuts is the top rad lines being angled hahaha! id use a couple of offset fittings to drop the mounting point on the distro-plate to make the lines parallel to the rest of the build hahaha
Nice job on the triple bend coming from the CPU block! 👍🏾
I love it that you went for hardtubing for the first time on video. This helps to visualize how it will probably be first time. I have watched JayzTwoCents and JPmodified watercooling tutorials. Still haven't got the courage to make my custom water cooling despite having all the parts. Now I just might do it. Thanks!
Sort of got it that one should cut the tubes after bending so that they would become straight while one still can adjust the "straightness" of the tubes. :) I think you should try to make parallell tubing from your cpu make one tube and then sort of try to imitate the same bend and then cut accordingly afterwards.
Offset adapters will help straighten your runs out! Nice job going with Acrylic.... ESPECIALLY with GPU installs, they run hot with high pressure and PETG tends to shrink without inserts. Especially with the junk they've been pumping out lately. Looks GREAT! Love the Lian Li Dynamic front reservoirs!
This was really enjoyable to watch. Not yet building a rig with hard tubing. And being a large Lian li fan. Good shit
HUGE NEWS. The exact monoblock you used, I PERSONALLY CAN CONFIRM works for the X570 Prime motherboard as well! I have it installed on my Asus Prime motherboard, no problems at all! Still able to keep the IO cover and everything.
Wow sorry I thought you were using the ASUS motherboard. The X570 Strix monoblock from EK, works for the Prime motherboard as well, is what Im trying to say.
To fix the top line, grab some extra fittings and have one tube dropping from the top rad out below the top rad & fan, then throw in a 90 degree elbow and then you can have a clean straight line to the distro for your top loop run. :)
I want to see a part 2 for the "hard" softline tubing!
Whelp, I was on the fence about hard line vs soft line, and you convinced me to go hardline! Thanks buddy! Subbed as well!
Good cable management even if hidden is essential because it helps upgrades, cleaning and changes to be fast and easy. Hiding chaos means later you'll struggle to upgrade, clean or replace parts.
It would look so much cleaner without all the additional tubes needed by the distro plate. I'm going for a soft tubing build with 2x x-flow rads in 011xl next
great video! just did my first loop. went with soft tubing. After about 3 weeks i decided to tear it apart and rebuild with distro plate and hard line. it was really easy to spend another 1k on the upgrade. Parts on the way!!!
I’m buying this case today. Someday I’d love to water cool it like this. Looks amazing.
Looks good man! I've never done it, but after seeing so many videos about it, it's definitely not easy. I bet it'll look even better after you do your touch up on it!
Some black and white sleeved cables would be a nice touch. Great job!
That lovely song Viasma by Valante you used during your montage sent me down a wonderful EDM spiral that I really needed tonight. Just wanted to comment to thank you for that a well as the great content you make!
Oh and you need a 15mm offset fitting for your top tube run. It’s a little off and titled. It’s always little trickier than it appears.
But now I understand why 99% of all builds last year or two look exactly same. Because of the ease of tubing in the 011 with a distro. My runs were wayyyyyy harder to pull off. But still. This looks fantastic. As the majority of them do. Def looks better hard tube.
😂 the builders remorse at the end. Loved it! And the fire hazard in the back LMFAO!!
product placement ? more like product blazement! amirite?
:P
@@flakeme 😂 YUP!
yea a normal bend with the radiator tubes is never gooing to be tight enough to make it both around the fan and also line up with the distro plate, if it starts to trigger you might i advise some more 90 degree fittings and probably a....2cm?2.5cm? extender for earch side so it actually makes it up over the fan :P
and my current build is hardline it's my 2nd (though my first hardline pc went through 2 or 3 revisions replacing most of the tubes, and my 2nd build has had a tube or 2 replaced but during the maintanence this year i plan to re-do al the tubes, together with some other changes.
thing that i like and at the same time annoys me is the time cost, yes compared to soft tubing you can have it look exactly how you want, thing is where soft tubing is connect one end see how long it has to be cut and attach, on rigid it can take soooo long (or take some expensive tools to make it faster but hard to justify when it's a personal build) make your bends cut to roughtly the length it will need to be, finish 1 end so it can go in to fitting without damaging the o-rings, and cutting off and re-finishing untill it's the exact length, or mess up take off to much and have to make another >.>
i used to be able to build a watercooled pc within a day, start early have it leaktesting in the afternoon or at night, since switching to rigid it's always a 2-3 day operation :P
Looks great... But the non-parralel radiator lines really bug me
If you switch the inlet and outlet around it’ll only be a few degrees warmer, in case you want to further clean the loop up, because it looks amazing :)
Nice work trying out new things and stepping out of your comfort zones. Only thing im seeing is that top tube appears to be downward sloping from front to back if that is possible to be made lever it would improve cosmetics. Altogether good job.
EDIT: made my comment before finishing the video.. haha good job.
Personally, I would of made the run like this: Dist plate ---> cpu/gpu ---> Rad ---> Dist plate.
instead of: Dist plate ---> cpu/gpu ---> Dist plate ---> Rad ---> Dist plate
This would reduce the amount of piping in the system and clean up the aesthetic. Of coarse with this dist plate you would need to buy some plugs for the unused ports, but I think it would be worth it. Over all, still a great build you have there.
So its a huge pain in the butt to do hardline tubing. BUT ITS SOOO WORTH IT. Glad you made the plunge man!
Looks awesome dude. Even with the minor imperfections it's great looking. Personally i don't mind the uneven runs on the rubing. Yeah you notice it but it's not an eyesore. Especially on your first attempt.
I didn't go hardline for my custom loop. I went softline since it was my first attempt. One day I'll brave the hardline attempt as you did.
For that top run that's not so straight because of the fans, you could get two 45 degree fittings to "lower" the distro plate port.
You should really use spacers and 90 degree fittings coming in and out of the rads to get it straighter. Then you don't have to worry about tight bends, and could just do straight runs with no bend at all. Basically what you did coming in and out of the GPU.
Simply put box below desk if don't like looks :p
I think it looks nice with no rgb crap, i would have used uncolored fluid, so able to tell when it's time to change.
I used regular car fluid in 90s when did water cooling, also i used hard tubes, aka copper tubes, no heat to bend them. Then soldered the fittings.
I made all the blocks self.
It looks so easy with plastic tubes now.
I know this is an old post, but planning a build and this was a great video. You did a great job! I'm a minimalist, my preference is less is more. I would loop Res>>>bottom-rad>>>GPU >>>top-rad>>>CPU>>>res. Only 90 degree bends. But to fix the parallels, have you considered mounting the fans inside the case but the rad outside? Would probably have to modify the case for the I/O on the top rad, but could fix that ugly top line, and might improve efficiency of the rad. I appreciate your observations. Subbed.
G'day MH,
🤔 So is the PC called 'The Mullet' Because it is all neat in the Front & an Explosion of Straggly in the back 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
do a 90 coming out of the distro block, then do a level run to the rad, then 90 back up. that is how you get straight lines when it doesn't line up.
For the top tube to radiator use two short 45 degree fittings to get straight line
one flaw is that all opaque liquids will have fallout of the nano particles as well as can gum up some of the fins in the blocks over time as nice as opaque looks its just one of the negatives to it and a good watercooling practice being drain and replace the liquid in the loop every 6 months though with distilled water could probably get about a year other then that and some bends not being perfect really good job congrats on a first time
the one tube at an angle is killing my ocd. other than that, snazzy build! Grats on your first time hardline build.
looks good . only 2 things i suggest, is using 90 fitting instead of your gentle 90 bends bends. and using offset fitting to make your lines more level. they work great. and allow you to make fine adjustments without recutting. just seems like you are only a couple mm in height difference on one side. i have the regular 011 dynamic and was going to go with the same distro block . its a real bugger to visualize where your runs have to go. i think you did great on technical application. it will just take time and experience to know what parts you need to troubleshoot different problems. with a few more fittings you wouldnt have to do any bends at all.
Those top and bottom runs are something I would fix. Maybe find some 90 degree fittings that will clear the fans
I'm making the exact same computer setup, I've got the same distro plate also and it's the greatest thing ever!
Nothing is forcing you to got back to distro plate from the CPU, just got from cpu the the top rad and you'll avoid all those bends (and whole tube). Other than that just need a bit of shortening on some tubes to get them level (some sand paper). Anyways filled that case up nicely. Reason why I use mATX is I hate wasted space, but with such big rads and all the tube runs, makes perfect sense.
Looks nice and approvement from here, using black&white build my self (just air), but if someone swapped my system to that wouldn't be sad :)
I love the look of custom watercooling but the prices For EKWB components is so over priced. Why does it cost more for some of the EK radiators than a 2020 corvette radiator?
Can always use extensions and 90 degree fittings to remove the need to bend around the fans
I have the 011 dynamic and plan to water cool in it down the road. The one thing stopping me is the cost of materials. Last time I priced out materials it was just eye watering. Gpu block, cpu block, distro, 2 radiators, tubing and fittings 🤢. That's enthusiast grade for ya. Easily double almost triple cost of the actual pc hardware. But glad to see you get the gear and props on those bends for 1st timer. You could have done far worse👍.
Looks great. I personally did a build in a o11d xl with 3 360mm rads. I would recommend re orienting the top fans to pull air in and put 3 120s on the side for exhaust that way u have fresh cool air flowing through both rads plus you'll have positive pressure which will help with dust buildup. If i were to be picky id redo the runs at the top and make them straighter. That's just me though. Still looks awesome. I almost went with a similar distro plate in front. But ended up not to save a little cost.
2 90 degree fittings can help make holes line better up for straighter runs. Especially on the radiator runs. I don't trust the angle of those tubes, I would be scared of leaks at the mono block side fittings. Great Video and first hard line build.
19:35 you could fix that non parallel run up top by doing what we call a Shepard’s hook in the electrical industry. Bend a 90 then immediately bend an offset. Google electrical EMT Shepard’s hook. Or you could bend your first bend to like 100 degrees then bend back like 10 degrees and it will give you the same effect.
Thanks for the video on this topic! I'm currently building my first custom loop too, with pretty similar components. It's really a shame that the EK monoblocks have the inlet/outlet the wrong way around for their distro... I'm going for a similar approach you did. Gonna route the CPU inlet tube same as you did, the outlet will go out of the CPU block, then a 90° pointing up/right in 45° into the horizontal and the same on the distro side. Wish me luck.
i prefer the front distro plate. the side one, takes way 3 fans and they are part of the design of the case itself
I have almost the same exact setup. Looking forward to setting it up. Just got all the parts.
Awsome video. Glad to see you try out hard-line tubing. I think it looks fine the way it is.
Only thing that really bothers me is that top tube. That bendy run in the middle is impressive for a first shot.
You need some more different kinds of fittings like offset fittings to be able to offset the lines coming out of the manifold so that they're parallel.
You first do the bend and leave trims at the end. Then with the bend, you trim the ends for perfect fit.
And you dont saw the pipes, you use a cutting tool :)
That is a really cool setup 👍🏻 and you did a clean job, and for a first timer, that was amazing