Liked, commented and subscribed. I love the Triumphs, they really are good looking bikes. I have just started a project of my own but different bike and a different build all together. At least in time. Thanks for the video :)
Nice project sir. These are in my opinion, the best Triumphs for modern usage. Have put over 20k miles on my 1980 as a daily commuter. Couple of tips. Champion NC3s. These bikes do not like NGKs. High zinc oil. Kendall 20w50 or Brad Penn. Sump plate filter set up with paper element. Don’t listen to all the ramblings on filter restriction. I’ve put 1000s of miles on my OIFs with these and zero issues. Amal Premiers. Worth the investment. NO Mikunis You will regret that move if that’s the route you take. Bike is not original paint although beautiful colors. Pilot jets are plugged.. If your removing the timing cover to access the oil pump. It is crucial that the cover seal at the crank end is renewed and installed correctly.
@mickgerard6696 great to hear you believe these are the best vintage Triumphs for modern usage! When I got the bike it had NGK resistor plugs in it (BPR7ES) and I changed them to the non-resistor variant BP7ES and it seems to run fine on those. That said, I am going to search out some Champion NC3's on your good advice and give those a try. Hard to find high zinc motorcycle oil. I am currently running Castrol 20/50 MC oil. I am in Canada but will try to source the Kendall / Brad Penn brands you mention. As for the sump I am currently running an external screw on oil filter and that works great. I've purchased the Amal Premiers and you're right! The new carbs make a big difference. Thanks for confirming the tank has been repainted. I think it must have been done years / decades ago, but still looks great so going to keep it that way. I replaced the oil pump with a new Morgo standard style oil pump and when I did that job I also replaced the seal as well. I've made videos on all of these jobs and many others on the bike and will continue to document the work going forward. I really appreciate your ideas and sharing a few tips! If you haven't already, please subscribe! I really appreciate it!
I like that color scheme a lot. Only one petcock is needed to run it. One should be a reserve petcock and one a regular petcock without the tube that sticks up an inch or two. I'm only running one petcock on my T140 and it does fine with that. As long as there's a cross over fuel hose that connects the two carb bowls, you're good to go.
Hi @daveco1270, thanks again for the tip! My carbs do have the cross-over pipe linking them together so only turning on one petcock makes good sense, enabling you to leave the other tank as a reserve. Hadn't thought of that :) Thanks Again!!
Just bought a T140 last month, went through the same things at the weekend, plus a carburetor strip and clean. Mine won't start very well, so timing and tappets this weekend :)
Hi @simonmarsden66, hey thanks very much for the comment. Great to hear you are also a new owner of a vintage Triumph! Mine starts fairly easily, but as you saw in the video isn't running right. I am going to do like you and and take the carbs off, clean them up and give it another try, but suspect I may have to purchase some new ones as the prior owner indicated he thought to barrel on one of them was out of round ...we'll see what happens. Before I do that though I need to resolve my 'wet-sumping' problem as I can't run the bike for more than 10 minutes without it filling the sump with a half litre+ of oil. I have a new oil pump on order so that will likely be my next project, or at least the one I'll need to tackle prior to the carbs. Be reallly interesting to know if your carb clean and valve adjustment rectifies the hard starting problem on your bike. You should make a video :) If you haven't already, please subscribe. I could really really use a few more subscribers. Cheers and Happy Wrenching!
Like your channel, good job done. Wee tip for ye, the ngk spark plugs which have a P in their type number means the electrode is portruded on them. The electrode is longer than the originals, so its wee bit further down cylinder. Guy in here, Paul Henshaw explains his theory on how he reckons we get better spark with them, because the spark is down nearer the maximum fuel mix, just a wee tip mate
Hi @ronniemcmurdo2016, thanks very much for the tip! The bike had BPR7ES NGK plugs in it when I purchased it, and I replaced them with NGK B7ES which are supposed to be closest to the originals, but given your comment I've made note and next time I change the plugs I'll use BP7ES instead. Really appreciate the feedback and tip! If you haven't already, please subscribe. I'd really appreciate it. Cheers!
@@MadTinkerman will do right now buddy, i like all channels re t140s, i have a 1978 t140v and love it. Have a look at these vlogs, Songs from the saddle, and Geoffrey mcevoy, two Triumph owners. Paul Henshaw is great site, he works on British bikes and takes them test runs. Cheers for your input, good job.
@ronniemcmurdo2016, really appreciate it! I've seen 'Songs from the Saddle' but will definitely check out the other channels as well. Great that you have T140 as well! Thanks Again!
My Triumphs seem to like the Champion N3C plugs over the NKG plugs. I'm not sure why. Also, if you're not using chokes in those carbs you should buy those little plugs to screw into the choke cable hole. If you don't have something plugging it up already, it's hard to tell in the video I'm not sure if it makes a huge difference, but I've always read to plug the holes if you're not using choke. Lots of places sell a little bolt that screws in there.
Hi again @daveco1270, the old Amals on the bike have had the choke hole sealed off with what looks to be JB Weld or something similar. One of the many reasons I am buying new carbs :) I've ordered new Amal 930's which I hope to receive in a week or two and they will come with the plug to cap off the choke hole as this bike doesn't need a choke. Thanks also for the tip on the Champion N3C's. Next time I replace the plugs, I'll give them a try. Great questions and comments! Appreciate it!
@@MadTinkerman the new Amal's are really nice. I've got the Amal premiers on my 78 T140 and my 1964 650. If you're using the top hat style throttle cables you'll probably have to drill out the threads in the cap on the new amals... or just use the caps off the old ones. Most of the Triumphs don't use the screw-in cable adjuster that comes with the Amal carbs, the cable just sits in the hole at the top.
@daveco1270, good to know you like the Amal Premiers as those are the ones I have on order. I do have the top hat cables so I'll likely take your advice and just use the caps on the old carbs. Didn't realize I would need to do that. I guess the alternative would be to buy new cables. Appreciate the info!
Just looking at your video. I have a 1979 T140V - on my bike the left petrol cock/tap (fuel valve) is the reserve and the right petrol cock /tap is the main fuel valve. In your starting procedure you appear to turn both on to start the bike - which just means you could run out of fuel as your reserve is effectively alway switched on. You might want to check this. I only turn the right petcock on which drains fuel from higher in the tank and if I run out of fuel from this tap I can use the left petcock (reserve) which drains the fuel from the bottom of the tank and provides the reserve fuel foe a few miles more. Mine is an English spec bike so it could be different to your export model.
Hi @neilpatterson458, thanks so much for watching the video and for your comment! You're absolutely correct that the best way to run these bikes is to only open the right petcock and leave the left hand one off, using it for a reserve should the bike run out of gas. When I first obtained the bike and this is 'Part 1' video I frankly didn't know any better :) Thanks again for the input and advice, and if you haven't already, please subscribe. I really appreciate it!!
@@MadTinkerman - Yes I retired in April this yes and bought my T140V as I project to fill in time learning about how it works and how to keep it on the road. I have had many of the problems/ challenges you have shown on your videos - starting with a snapped clutch cable which has now resulted in me replacing the clutch with a Hyde 7 plate clutch - the 6 plate clutch was too heavy for me for longer rides. keep on making the videos and I'll keep watching. Neil
Interesting that you've had many of the same issues on your bike as on mine, and that we both have the 7 disc clutch mod, which definitely helps in a number of ways, not the least of which is how dang hard the original clutch / clutch lever is to actuate. Happy Riding, Cheers!
HI @jontg429, really appreciate your advice on this. I'll make note of the Amal Premier carbs in case the carb cleaning doesn't do the trick. There's a significant wet-sumping issue I am going to tackle first though as I can't run the bike more than 5 or 10 minutes at the moment without it pumping half a litre (500ml+) of oil into the sump. I have a morgo oil pump on order. Once the wet-sumping issue is resolved, I'll then tackle the carbs.
Hi @paulwoods682, the bike was running very poorly when I got it and did this very first video when I got it home. I've since done a bunch of work on it, including compression test (both cylinders just over 100 psi), checked the points gap and timing and cleaned and refreshed the carburetors. The main issue was carburetion as the slides in both carbs were sticking, and in one of them it was severely sticking. Knowing I should (and still will at some point) buy some new carbs for it, I took an aggressive approach to getting the carbs better / functional and you can see that work effort / craziness in this video: ua-cam.com/video/p_mYdRgNTkI/v-deo.html Interestingly, after that work, the bike actually runs reliably well, but I know that the carbs have some air leakage (they must) so will purchase new carbs once I get a few other jobs done. I am leaning towards purchasing the same Amals that are on the bike, but would be interested in your thoughts on what would be best. I believe the ones on the bike now are Mark 1's and they do not have a choke. The Amals are a lot of $'s as you know so want to ensure I am investing in the right thing :) Thanks Again! If you haven't already, please subscribe! I would really appreciate it :) Cheers!
Liked, commented and subscribed. I love the Triumphs, they really are good looking bikes. I have just started a project of my own but different bike and a different build all together. At least in time. Thanks for the video :)
Hi @JonDoesStuff71, thanks so much for liking, subscribing and for your comments! Really appreciate the feedback and the support! Cheers!
Nice project sir. These are in my opinion, the best Triumphs for modern usage. Have put over 20k miles on my 1980 as a daily commuter. Couple of tips. Champion NC3s. These bikes do not like NGKs.
High zinc oil. Kendall 20w50 or Brad Penn.
Sump plate filter set up with paper element. Don’t listen to all the ramblings on filter restriction. I’ve put 1000s of miles on my OIFs with these and zero issues.
Amal Premiers. Worth the investment. NO Mikunis You will regret that move if that’s the route you take.
Bike is not original paint although beautiful colors.
Pilot jets are plugged..
If your removing the timing cover to access the oil pump. It is crucial that the cover seal at the crank end is renewed and installed correctly.
@mickgerard6696 great to hear you believe these are the best vintage Triumphs for modern usage! When I got the bike it had NGK resistor plugs in it (BPR7ES) and I changed them to the non-resistor variant BP7ES and it seems to run fine on those. That said, I am going to search out some Champion NC3's on your good advice and give those a try. Hard to find high zinc motorcycle oil. I am currently running Castrol 20/50 MC oil. I am in Canada but will try to source the Kendall / Brad Penn brands you mention. As for the sump I am currently running an external screw on oil filter and that works great. I've purchased the Amal Premiers and you're right! The new carbs make a big difference. Thanks for confirming the tank has been repainted. I think it must have been done years / decades ago, but still looks great so going to keep it that way. I replaced the oil pump with a new Morgo standard style oil pump and when I did that job I also replaced the seal as well. I've made videos on all of these jobs and many others on the bike and will continue to document the work going forward. I really appreciate your ideas and sharing a few tips! If you haven't already, please subscribe! I really appreciate it!
I like that color scheme a lot. Only one petcock is needed to run it. One should be a reserve petcock and one a regular petcock without the tube that sticks up an inch or two. I'm only running one petcock on my T140 and it does fine with that. As long as there's a cross over fuel hose that connects the two carb bowls, you're good to go.
Hi @daveco1270, thanks again for the tip! My carbs do have the cross-over pipe linking them together so only turning on one petcock makes good sense, enabling you to leave the other tank as a reserve. Hadn't thought of that :) Thanks Again!!
Thanks Charles
Thanks for the comment Arnie!
Just bought a T140 last month, went through the same things at the weekend, plus a carburetor strip and clean. Mine won't start very well, so timing and tappets this weekend :)
Hi @simonmarsden66, hey thanks very much for the comment. Great to hear you are also a new owner of a vintage Triumph! Mine starts fairly easily, but as you saw in the video isn't running right. I am going to do like you and and take the carbs off, clean them up and give it another try, but suspect I may have to purchase some new ones as the prior owner indicated he thought to barrel on one of them was out of round ...we'll see what happens. Before I do that though I need to resolve my 'wet-sumping' problem as I can't run the bike for more than 10 minutes without it filling the sump with a half litre+ of oil. I have a new oil pump on order so that will likely be my next project, or at least the one I'll need to tackle prior to the carbs. Be reallly interesting to know if your carb clean and valve adjustment rectifies the hard starting problem on your bike. You should make a video :) If you haven't already, please subscribe. I could really really use a few more subscribers. Cheers and Happy Wrenching!
@@MadTinkerman done
Like your channel, good job done.
Wee tip for ye, the ngk spark plugs which have a P in their type number means the electrode is portruded on them.
The electrode is longer than the originals, so its wee bit further down cylinder.
Guy in here, Paul Henshaw explains his theory on how he reckons we get better spark with them, because the spark is down nearer the maximum fuel mix, just a wee tip mate
Hi @ronniemcmurdo2016, thanks very much for the tip! The bike had BPR7ES NGK plugs in it when I purchased it, and I replaced them with NGK B7ES which are supposed to be closest to the originals, but given your comment I've made note and next time I change the plugs I'll use BP7ES instead. Really appreciate the feedback and tip! If you haven't already, please subscribe. I'd really appreciate it. Cheers!
@@MadTinkerman will do right now buddy, i like all channels re t140s, i have a 1978 t140v and love it.
Have a look at these vlogs, Songs from the saddle, and Geoffrey mcevoy, two Triumph owners.
Paul Henshaw is great site, he works on British bikes and takes them test runs.
Cheers for your input, good job.
@ronniemcmurdo2016, really appreciate it! I've seen 'Songs from the Saddle' but will definitely check out the other channels as well. Great that you have T140 as well! Thanks Again!
My Triumphs seem to like the Champion N3C plugs over the NKG plugs. I'm not sure why. Also, if you're not using chokes in those carbs you should buy those little plugs to screw into the choke cable hole. If you don't have something plugging it up already, it's hard to tell in the video I'm not sure if it makes a huge difference, but I've always read to plug the holes if you're not using choke. Lots of places sell a little bolt that screws in there.
Hi again @daveco1270, the old Amals on the bike have had the choke hole sealed off with what looks to be JB Weld or something similar. One of the many reasons I am buying new carbs :) I've ordered new Amal 930's which I hope to receive in a week or two and they will come with the plug to cap off the choke hole as this bike doesn't need a choke. Thanks also for the tip on the Champion N3C's. Next time I replace the plugs, I'll give them a try. Great questions and comments! Appreciate it!
@@MadTinkerman the new Amal's are really nice. I've got the Amal premiers on my 78 T140 and my 1964 650. If you're using the top hat style throttle cables you'll probably have to drill out the threads in the cap on the new amals... or just use the caps off the old ones. Most of the Triumphs don't use the screw-in cable adjuster that comes with the Amal carbs, the cable just sits in the hole at the top.
@daveco1270, good to know you like the Amal Premiers as those are the ones I have on order. I do have the top hat cables so I'll likely take your advice and just use the caps on the old carbs. Didn't realize I would need to do that. I guess the alternative would be to buy new cables. Appreciate the info!
Just looking at your video. I have a 1979 T140V - on my bike the left petrol cock/tap (fuel valve) is the reserve and the right petrol cock /tap is the main fuel valve. In your starting procedure you appear to turn both on to start the bike - which just means you could run out of fuel as your reserve is effectively alway switched on. You might want to check this. I only turn the right petcock on which drains fuel from higher in the tank and if I run out of fuel from this tap I can use the left petcock (reserve) which drains the fuel from the bottom of the tank and provides the reserve fuel foe a few miles more. Mine is an English spec bike so it could be different to your export model.
Hi @neilpatterson458, thanks so much for watching the video and for your comment! You're absolutely correct that the best way to run these bikes is to only open the right petcock and leave the left hand one off, using it for a reserve should the bike run out of gas. When I first obtained the bike and this is 'Part 1' video I frankly didn't know any better :) Thanks again for the input and advice, and if you haven't already, please subscribe. I really appreciate it!!
@@MadTinkerman - Yes I retired in April this yes and bought my T140V as I project to fill in time learning about how it works and how to keep it on the road. I have had many of the problems/ challenges you have shown on your videos - starting with a snapped clutch cable which has now resulted in me replacing the clutch with a Hyde 7 plate clutch - the 6 plate clutch was too heavy for me for longer rides. keep on making the videos and I'll keep watching. Neil
Interesting that you've had many of the same issues on your bike as on mine, and that we both have the 7 disc clutch mod, which definitely helps in a number of ways, not the least of which is how dang hard the original clutch / clutch lever is to actuate. Happy Riding, Cheers!
I bet a good clean of the carbs will make it run better, if not get a new set of Amal premeir carbs, they are much better than the originals
HI @jontg429, really appreciate your advice on this. I'll make note of the Amal Premier carbs in case the carb cleaning doesn't do the trick. There's a significant wet-sumping issue I am going to tackle first though as I can't run the bike more than 5 or 10 minutes at the moment without it pumping half a litre (500ml+) of oil into the sump. I have a morgo oil pump on order. Once the wet-sumping issue is resolved, I'll then tackle the carbs.
Its running on one cylinder
Hi @paulwoods682, the bike was running very poorly when I got it and did this very first video when I got it home. I've since done a bunch of work on it, including compression test (both cylinders just over 100 psi), checked the points gap and timing and cleaned and refreshed the carburetors. The main issue was carburetion as the slides in both carbs were sticking, and in one of them it was severely sticking. Knowing I should (and still will at some point) buy some new carbs for it, I took an aggressive approach to getting the carbs better / functional and you can see that work effort / craziness in this video: ua-cam.com/video/p_mYdRgNTkI/v-deo.html Interestingly, after that work, the bike actually runs reliably well, but I know that the carbs have some air leakage (they must) so will purchase new carbs once I get a few other jobs done. I am leaning towards purchasing the same Amals that are on the bike, but would be interested in your thoughts on what would be best. I believe the ones on the bike now are Mark 1's and they do not have a choke. The Amals are a lot of $'s as you know so want to ensure I am investing in the right thing :) Thanks Again! If you haven't already, please subscribe! I would really appreciate it :) Cheers!