Folks that make videos like this are true heroes. I'm just starting a 67 triumph tiger and content like this is worth its weight in gold. So much thanks and respect man.
A couple of years ago i replaced everything in the clutch except the chain wheel & pressure plate. I was able to purchase a complete hub assembly with rubbers installed. I filed a little bit of the slots in the Chain Wheel & reused. Since i replaced the female tapered piece that mounts to the transmission shaft - I had to re-shim the engine shaft to keep alignment within .005 inch. I was told that i could purchase shims from McMaster- Carr & I did. I checked alignment a couple different ways 1) i measured the position from some reference point of the old tapered piece , when mounted on transmission shaft to the new tapered piece. I also considerd the thickness of the thrust washers - old verses new. It was actually the face of thrust washer position that contacts the chain wheel - that i compared old to new & it gave me a number/thickness required. 2) With chain removed mount both sprockets, i mounted clutch on the tapered shaft but did not install lock nut. Using a straight edge (small carpenters square) & feeler gage - i was able to check alignment. I double checked using a 005 feeler gage once new shims were installed. I agree never reuse the Lock Nut! I was told by one place that i purchased parts from to reuse the Lock Nut but just put some Red Loc-tite on threads. I was able to purchase a new lock nut from another supplier. Everyone has trouble with the sprocket window screws & i replaced with allen head flat heads too - years ago. It may not make a difference but i used black oxide screws & not zinc coated. Anyway, my clutch works geat & does not lock up even after winter storage. My bike is a 1973 Tiger 750. It has 63,000.miles. I purchased in 1977.& i have riden it every year since.
I’m at this exact point on my build so thanks for doing this video it’s very helpful. My question is to avoid the plates rusting together should I soak them in 20w oil as the build will not be on the road for a year or two. Thanks
If you don't need the clutch to function yet, I'd put it the cover on without fitting the plates until your ready to ride it. The oil could go sticky and cause them to grab to each other.
I've got a 1970 tr6 supposedly just had the clutch replaced by a shop. Have since pulled the end off two cables and the clutch is very hard to squeeze. I have re set up the clutch as per your video and still no success. Do you have any recommendations? Cheers Rob
I'm getting ready to re-assemble the gearbox and clutch in a 1973 t140v so these videos are helping alot! One question - I can't find exactly how to/where to put on the high gear oil seal...do I put it on the high gear before the high gear goes through the main bearing or does the oil seal go on the sprocket side of the main bearing? Do you have a video that shows that assembly? thanks!
Hi. You can fit the High gear seal first from the Sprocket side, through the primary window. I normally knock them in while I'm fitting the new inner needle roller bearings before the cases go together. The inner of that seal runs on the sprocket boss. Don't forget the O-ring under the sprocket tab washer. Hope that makes sense? Thanks.
@@guerrillabuildchoppers4823 Thanks.... spring side of the oil seal towards the high gear side right? And thanks for the reminder about the o-ring...still need to source a new one.
Hi are you from Liverpool am local am having problems getting my gears selected going down I have just bought a bonerville 1969 650 what would I need to adjust to get them in Engage better thank sean the gears are alright going up ? But knit down ?
Help ! I've got a 1971 Tiger 650 and for some reasons the clutch springs won't undo ! i have the special tool but a couple are so tight, Any ideas ? Thanks.
My 72 foes not maintain correct oil level in the primary. I understand that the three tiny holes in the crankcase positioned low just to the right of the eng sprocket at proper oil level are supposed to regulate this oil level. What is done to properly restore their function ?
Please allow me a question. Lately I changed the front sprocket on my T120 O.I.F. After all was remounted and the rear chain was adjusted, I had a disturbing experience. Mind you, she is my first Triumph. With a screwdriver between the primary case and the clutch (with little force) I can slightly move the clutch horizontally and the tension of the rear chain changes a wee bit as well. Are the said movements compensated by the antagonal reaction forces of the two chain drives during operation? Cheers!
Replacing Gearbox bearings is a really common job. Sounds like there is play in the High Gear bearing as that runs on the main shaft. If you open the box, replace all of them including the Layshaft. Britishbikedoctor have everything you need.
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Folks that make videos like this are true heroes. I'm just starting a 67 triumph tiger and content like this is worth its weight in gold. So much thanks and respect man.
I loved Lunmads reaction when he realized he forgot the bolts..man was priceless..R.I.P. brother.
A couple of years ago i replaced everything in the clutch except the chain wheel & pressure plate.
I was able to purchase a complete hub assembly with rubbers installed.
I filed a little bit of the slots in the Chain Wheel & reused.
Since i replaced the female tapered piece that mounts to the transmission shaft - I had to re-shim the engine shaft to keep alignment within .005 inch.
I was told that i could purchase shims from McMaster- Carr & I did.
I checked alignment a couple different ways
1) i measured the position from some reference point of the old tapered piece , when mounted on transmission shaft to the new tapered piece.
I also considerd the thickness of the thrust washers - old verses new.
It was actually the face of thrust washer position that contacts the chain wheel - that i compared old to new & it gave me a number/thickness required.
2) With chain removed mount both sprockets, i mounted clutch on the tapered shaft but did not install lock nut.
Using a straight edge (small carpenters square) & feeler gage - i was able to check alignment.
I double checked using a
005 feeler gage once new shims were installed.
I agree never reuse the Lock Nut!
I was told by one place that i purchased parts from to reuse the Lock Nut but just put some Red Loc-tite on threads.
I was able to purchase a new lock nut from another supplier.
Everyone has trouble with the sprocket window screws & i replaced with allen head flat heads too - years ago.
It may not make a difference but i used black oxide screws & not zinc coated.
Anyway, my clutch works geat & does not lock up even after winter storage.
My bike is a 1973 Tiger 750.
It has 63,000.miles.
I purchased in 1977.& i have riden it every year since.
Thanks for taking the time to make the vid….not many people today know how to work on these things, so your advice is appreciated….
Thanks for watching. I'll find more Triumph stuff to work on.
Excellent video. Clear and to the point. I'm fitting my clutch this weekend.
Thanks, Hope it helps out.
Thankyou. A proper look at how this beauty works, and in English.
Many thanks!
Same mistake as Lunmad, forgetting the three bolts. I was waiting for how long it would take him to realize it. He caught it fairly early.
It would be easy to edit stuff like that out, but I leave them in so it reminds the next guy not to make the same mistake.
@@guerrillabuildchoppers4823 thanks, now that I’ve been doubly warned I may actually remember.
I’m at this exact point on my build so thanks for doing this video it’s very helpful. My question is to avoid the plates rusting together should I soak them in 20w oil as the build will not be on the road for a year or two. Thanks
If you don't need the clutch to function yet, I'd put it the cover on without fitting the plates until your ready to ride it. The oil could go sticky and cause them to grab to each other.
Hi very good video thanks for the rundown. What size is the allan-key used for adjustment of the clutch rod
The Allen key is 3/16".
Thanks for watching.
I've got a 1970 tr6 supposedly just had the clutch replaced by a shop. Have since pulled the end off two cables and the clutch is very hard to squeeze. I have re set up the clutch as per your video and still no success. Do you have any recommendations? Cheers Rob
I'm getting ready to re-assemble the gearbox and clutch in a 1973 t140v so these videos are helping alot! One question - I can't find exactly how to/where to put on the high gear oil seal...do I put it on the high gear before the high gear goes through the main bearing or does the oil seal go on the sprocket side of the main bearing? Do you have a video that shows that assembly? thanks!
Hi. You can fit the High gear seal first from the Sprocket side, through the primary window. I normally knock them in while I'm fitting the new inner needle roller bearings before the cases go together. The inner of that seal runs on the sprocket boss. Don't forget the O-ring under the sprocket tab washer. Hope that makes sense? Thanks.
@@guerrillabuildchoppers4823 Thanks.... spring side of the oil seal towards the high gear side right? And thanks for the reminder about the o-ring...still need to source a new one.
@@kennethnystrom7285 Yes, closed face towards the sprocket. The small one in the trap door goes the other way.
Yep be good cya do the stator too. Excellent vid
Hi are you from Liverpool am local am having problems getting my gears selected going down I have just bought a bonerville 1969 650 what would I need to adjust to get them in Engage better thank sean the gears are alright going up ? But knit down ?
Yep be good to see ya do clutch adjustment vid. Ta from another scouser Paul
Help ! I've got a 1971 Tiger 650 and for some reasons the clutch springs won't undo ! i have the special tool but a couple are so tight, Any ideas ? Thanks.
Maybe try a bit of Heat? You'll have to replace the Springs, but they should free off.
Many thanks, will try that 👍@@guerrillabuildchoppers4823
like your style . . thanks for the vid
Thanks for watching. Hope it helps.
My 72 foes not maintain correct oil level in the primary. I understand that the three tiny holes in the crankcase positioned low just to the right of the eng sprocket at proper oil level are supposed to regulate this oil level. What is done to properly restore their function ?
No mention of drive sprocket & clutch basket alignment!
Please allow me a question.
Lately I changed the front sprocket on my T120 O.I.F. After all was remounted and the rear chain was adjusted, I had a disturbing experience. Mind you, she is my first Triumph.
With a screwdriver between the primary case and the clutch (with little force) I can slightly move the clutch horizontally and the tension of the rear chain changes a wee bit as well.
Are the said movements compensated by the antagonal reaction forces of the two chain drives during operation?
Cheers!
Replacing Gearbox bearings is a really common job. Sounds like there is play in the High Gear bearing as that runs on the main shaft. If you open the box, replace all of them including the Layshaft. Britishbikedoctor have everything you need.
Thanks!
Thanks!
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