I bought a truck with the same issue recently and if I would have had friends willing to help me I would have replaced my heads. Sadly I couldn't find anyone willing to help w/o wanting a huge amount of $$. Since I'm disabled pretty badly I couldn't do the job by myself anymore so I had to find a way to repair the heads while still in the truck which wasn't easy but I got it done to a certain degree. Someday I might find a used engine to replace mine but my truck only has 49,000 actual miles on it so I'm trying to keep it together as best I can. Thank you for showing a problem Ford has as this was my first experience on seeing/dealing with a rusted head on any Ford truck! New or rebuilt heads were super costly thanks to Biden..
This was a fantastic video! Blew a gasket on my '96 460 and this helped tremendously. It didn't need to be a play-by-play, if you have any mechanical fortitude this is a great templet. I can't recommend enough to people the cardboard trick @ 6:45 to keep the rocker arms/push rods in order for correct replacement - Genius! Thanks for the vid and the help!
Damn dude I really like your attitude. "I'm sure they knew about it, but I'm not mad." "Dishonesty sucks, but what are you going to do?" That's kind of where I'm sitting with my pickup.
same deal..... 60 k truck, muffler leaking never heard engine paint and detail done sent down for a new set of duals..... cry or fight.... sad but new heads and keep pushing. mine is worth fixing!!!!!
AWESOME video! I'm just about to put my 460 back together and the internet is full of useless crap when it comes to rebuilding engines. So many people give HORRIBLE possibly engine damaging advice. This video is a gem. You show the book and all! Thank you!
Believe it or not you did a pretty nice job on the video, I may have the same problem as I bought an '89 Bronco with a switched in '93 460. I can hear noise from the same area of the ex man and see a bolt not threaded in all the way, taking it in for diagnostics soon, unfortunately I don't have the luxury of a garage. Nice job!!
Otor was blown.and i have no tools. I dont want to remove the motot i dont have a table.mine is in an rv motorhome.and to put the gaskets.is it better for me to orxer new heads? And water came out through the manifold
this was very informative. you did a good job explaining the process. recently a rod came loose on my left head and this video helped me get an idea of what im getting into. thanks
I got a 96 F350 crew cab dually with a 460 in it 208000 miles on it I just bought it up in Virginia what the whole radiator is full of rusty water now the temperature is starting to fluctuate what would cause all that rust in the radiator that's a very clean truck
You got dam lucky those head bolts came out , I live in Northern Minnesota and I had to take the engine out and drain the block and take the touch and heat up the block red hot before those bolts broke lose and I had to use my 3/4 breaker bar with a 4 ft pipe and help it in place on the engine stand with a skiddstear . New Milwaukee 3/4 impact gun wouldn't break any on the outside lose . Took 3 hrs to get them out and the heads off . The block is getting checked for cracks now lol.
I wasn't really planning on adding ballast. But if I do, I have a 1000lb concrete slab I can strap in. This is a backup. So if all goes well, we won't need it. Thanks for watching
Fitz's Fixes Fitz, it's been 5 yrs since making the video. I'm interested in getting a set of heads and want to know about your connection for cheap heads, James
My close friend owns a recycling plant. They take in thousands upon thousands of engines and transmissions from scrap yards. I was able to find a set at his place. Where are you located? I may be able to ship you a pair
What do you think causes the head to disappear at the exhaust manifold? That is nuts! I have one of these in my RV with the Banks exhaust. It is faster loaded going uphill than my empty 22re 4wd pickup empty.
Definitely salt corrosion. I think in its past life, it was a salt truck that was never washed. It's very common around here, especially on the efi heads. The flange is thin to begin with
Had this same problem. Not a permanent fix, but I removed the exhaust manifold and welded a stud. Been working that way 4 yrs but need to find a cheap set of heads someday
I repaired the head whil eit was still the truck. Trust me when I say it wasn't easy to fashion all the broken pieces I needed but it worked. There are still areas that are not perfect but I'll do what you stated by welding in a grade 8 threaded rod/bolt to attack the exhaust manifolds to. The truck had been used as a plow truck before I got it and the first/original owner already had the head replaced once prior. It only has 49,000 actual miles which blew my mind. Wash your trucks if they plow snow people! With prices today its crazy expensive to replace a head.
We really could have used video of the actual head gasket placement and head replacement, lifter rods and lifter replacement, etc, rather than the aftermath of the work, as well as actual part/tool names, rather than "fuel line separator thingy". Otherwise, the videography was good, voice was clear, good to see the reference book. Seeing the pieces off and giving us things watch for, like the erosion of the exhaust area, was very helpful.
Never seen heads rotted out like that. I bought the heads for my 454 from my neighbor, he had them sitting outside for who knows how many years and they were fine. (And they were old, from 67)
Welp... I have the similar problem on my 93 460. Leaking coolant out below #4 plug. Either a shot gasket or crack somewhere. Thanks for the vid; these how-tos are great.
Well I would say to have removed both heads and battled with seized bolts and other hurdles to start it up and only have a couple wires crossed .............impressive. I was hoping you would have shown lifting the heads off , or better yet heard you lifting them off as they are big heavy bastards and I'm sure the audio would have indicated as such......................Again nice job, an informative and easy to follow video
if you still own this truck , pull the hoses for the air intake apart at that plastic junction in the middle , cut those restrictive ends off , you will see , and put it back together , you will see a increase in fuel mileage , it did about 2 mpg
towrecker saw a comment about increasing fuel mileage and power. 1 scrap the 460. great power house of an engine, but thirsty. if thats not an option, scrap from the catalytic converter back and replace with a minimum of 3" diameter exhaust. did this with mine, went from 8 mpg to 11-12
Yeah I don't think youtube would have been happy with that audio! I laid across the radiator and dropped one of my nuts when I handed jr that lead weight. In hindsight, I wish I had a lift of some kind. Putting the new heads on was worse. We managed though. Thanks jr!
My 97 f350 w/460 heads rotted out in the same spot...Being replaced with recast heads, that spot around the bolts from the header on the new heads is really beefed up...
crazy man herei bought a efi engine i was hoping it was last year of efi but noo tinny valves so i junked all but block will be using cj heads i am pore as it get but i add up price n said it the only way no other way exists that train of thought is bestto get 1977 f350 roll back going fuel system with be megasquirt microsquirt or speedduno ardrinuno efi cheap n good stuff i do all this a i haded heads not breathing n no being able to shint 5 speed in lower gear n it just setting humming n not revving to 5500 6500 n still piulling 1980 90`s sucks in the heads ford chevy all of them were just ass holes
this video is incredibly helpful, thanks! Now my question is where did you get that book? im seeking to remove my E4OD 4X4 W/overdrive , however...its going to be a COMPLETE pain. i need all the help i can get, plus help with a few smaller items.
I know your post is few months old but I'll comment anyway. Your project really is not that difficult. Once you remove all the lines, wires, transfer case shifter(if so equipped) and linkages, the rest is really simple. I do recommend that you take pictures of the linkages, wires, and fluid lines before you tear anything apart. Remove the access panel under the transmission where it meets up with the engine so you can access the torque converter bolts. You can gain access to the torque converter bolts two different ways: *NOTE* Disconnect the ignition coil wire so the engine doesn't start for option #1. Option 1: Quickly turn the ignition key little bits at a time to rotate the flex plate and torque converter so you can remove the nuts from the studs on the torque converter. Option 2: Rotate the engine manually with a breaker bar and socket on the bolt in the center of the crankshaft pulley. Unbolt the driveshaft from the transfer case. The transfer case cross member needs to be removed eventually so torch or grind off the rivet heads and punch them out. You might get lucky and find that someone has already replaced the rivets with bolts. Unbolt the transmission from the engine. You may need to get inside your truck and pull up your carpet and unbolt the transmission access panel to get to some of the bolts. Remove the two nuts under the transfer case cross member that hold the transfer case mounting bracket to the cross member. Then with some sort of jack under the transmission, pull back on the transfer case and wiggle the whole assembly until it separates from the engine. Once it's back far enough, jack it up higher and remove the cross member. Then all you do is make sure the whole setup is balanced(having a friend help is nice,) lower it down, unbolt the transmission from the transfer case, and you have done it. If you take your time and be very careful, this should be a fairly easy job. I remember back in the day that I did transmission, engine, axle, etc. removal and replacement jobs on all kinds of vehicles before I even reached puberty. My old man trusted my mechanical abilities so he let me tackle these kind of jobs without any guidance or even a helping hand because he knew I would take my time and analyze the task at hand. That is really all you need to do and if I could do these sort of jobs by myself as a kid, you should have no trouble doing so as an adult. If you have not already taken care of the issue, I wish you the best of luck!
is plowing a good idea? idk if i want to lift the03 f350 i plan on buying or put a plow on it and make some cash I'm in new jersey idk if its "worth it"
Fitz's Fixes my address is 16016 thunder trail, Austin 78734. It was by chance I saw your video and have been looking for some heads. What did your heads from the shop look like at the exhaust bolts, do you notice any cracks, wonder if they all do it at some time
Hey I have a 97 f250 that I'm working on had the same problem as yous with the heads. Where did u get ure valve covers and valve cover bolts I'm having a hard time finding some.
trailriders dwb good question. I did over the course of a week. but if I had to guess. I'd say 10 or 12 hours. Lots of cleaning, scraping, painting, and broken bolts.
+Fitz's Fixes okay thank you. I'm getting ready to start tearing my bosses 95 that he inherited apart tomorrow to replace the head gaskets and I just was looking for a idea on how long it would take. But thank you
I bought a truck with the same issue recently and if I would have had friends willing to help me I would have replaced my heads. Sadly I couldn't find anyone willing to help w/o wanting a huge amount of $$. Since I'm disabled pretty badly I couldn't do the job by myself anymore so I had to find a way to repair the heads while still in the truck which wasn't easy but I got it done to a certain degree. Someday I might find a used engine to replace mine but my truck only has 49,000 actual miles on it so I'm trying to keep it together as best I can. Thank you for showing a problem Ford has as this was my first experience on seeing/dealing with a rusted head on any Ford truck! New or rebuilt heads were super costly thanks to Biden..
Hi. I got a 91 Ford f350 7.5 460. Crew cab. What did you have to remove to get the heads off.?
This was a fantastic video! Blew a gasket on my '96 460 and this helped tremendously. It didn't need to be a play-by-play, if you have any mechanical fortitude this is a great templet. I can't recommend enough to people the cardboard trick @ 6:45 to keep the rocker arms/push rods in order for correct replacement - Genius! Thanks for the vid and the help!
Damn dude I really like your attitude. "I'm sure they knew about it, but I'm not mad." "Dishonesty sucks, but what are you going to do?" That's kind of where I'm sitting with my pickup.
Nice job, That is a huge project. That is going to be a nice plow truck, but how do you put weight in the back, or don't you need it?
same deal..... 60 k truck, muffler leaking never heard engine paint and detail done sent down for a new set of duals..... cry or fight.... sad but new heads and keep pushing. mine is worth fixing!!!!!
AWESOME video! I'm just about to put my 460 back together and the internet is full of useless crap when it comes to rebuilding engines. So many people give HORRIBLE possibly engine damaging advice. This video is a gem. You show the book and all! Thank you!
Believe it or not you did a pretty nice job on the video, I may have the same problem as I bought an '89 Bronco with a switched in '93 460. I can hear noise from the same area of the ex man and see a bolt not threaded in all the way, taking it in for diagnostics soon, unfortunately I don't have the luxury of a garage. Nice job!!
Otor was blown.and i have no tools. I dont want to remove the motot i dont have a table.mine is in an rv motorhome.and to put the gaskets.is it better for me to orxer new heads? And water came out through the manifold
460s are notorious for exhaust manifolds leaks.
I wish it was the manifold. Heads are way more expensive, lol. Luckily "I got a guy" that hooked me up with heads.
@@fitzsfixes yeah I seen after I commented.. good luck on it.
@@fordnut4914 thanks. This video is years old. I've since sold that truck. New owner seems happy with no issues to report. Thanks for watching
I have a 92 f250 with a 460. Blown head gaskets replacing them within the week with one of my buddies great video
That is an astonishing amount of rust on an engine. I'm in the rust belt and I've never seen a head dissolve...
Nice work... I've had 3 of those 460's in different trucks still have 1 going now. They work hard.
this was very informative. you did a good job explaining the process. recently a rod came loose on my left head and this video helped me get an idea of what im getting into. thanks
you're welcome. I'm glad I could help
I got a 96 F350 crew cab dually with a 460 in it 208000 miles on it I just bought it up in Virginia what the whole radiator is full of rusty water now the temperature is starting to fluctuate what would cause all that rust in the radiator that's a very clean truck
You got dam lucky those head bolts came out , I live in Northern Minnesota and I had to take the engine out and drain the block and take the touch and heat up the block red hot before those bolts broke lose and I had to use my 3/4 breaker bar with a 4 ft pipe and help it in place on the engine stand with a skiddstear . New Milwaukee 3/4 impact gun wouldn't break any on the outside lose . Took 3 hrs to get them out and the heads off . The block is getting checked for cracks now lol.
I wasn't really planning on adding ballast. But if I do, I have a 1000lb concrete slab I can strap in. This is a backup. So if all goes well, we won't need it. Thanks for watching
Fitz's Fixes Fitz, it's been 5 yrs since making the video. I'm interested in getting a set of heads and want to know about your connection for cheap heads, James
My close friend owns a recycling plant. They take in thousands upon thousands of engines and transmissions from scrap yards. I was able to find a set at his place. Where are you located? I may be able to ship you a pair
Fitz's Fixes I'm in austin
Well if you can't find anything, let me know. The shipping will suck, but I can get them for next to nothing
From watching another of your videos I'd say you're in New York, near niagara falls
What do you think causes the head to disappear at the exhaust manifold? That is nuts! I have one of these in my RV with the Banks exhaust. It is faster loaded going uphill than my empty 22re 4wd pickup empty.
Definitely salt corrosion. I think in its past life, it was a salt truck that was never washed. It's very common around here, especially on the efi heads. The flange is thin to begin with
@@fitzsfixes I would think that it would burn the valves and damage the piston sucking in all of that cold air but it appears you faired very well
@@markemery7741 yes, it seemed to be just fine. I sold that truck years ago, but it ran great while I had it. 10,000 miles or so
Had this same problem. Not a permanent fix, but I removed the exhaust manifold and welded a stud. Been working that way 4 yrs but need to find a cheap set of heads someday
I repaired the head whil eit was still the truck. Trust me when I say it wasn't easy to fashion all the broken pieces I needed but it worked. There are still areas that are not perfect but I'll do what you stated by welding in a grade 8 threaded rod/bolt to attack the exhaust manifolds to. The truck had been used as a plow truck before I got it and the first/original owner already had the head replaced once prior. It only has 49,000 actual miles which blew my mind. Wash your trucks if they plow snow people! With prices today its crazy expensive to replace a head.
We really could have used video of the actual head gasket placement and head replacement, lifter rods and lifter replacement, etc, rather than the aftermath of the work, as well as actual part/tool names, rather than "fuel line separator thingy". Otherwise, the videography was good, voice was clear, good to see the reference book. Seeing the pieces off and giving us things watch for, like the erosion of the exhaust area, was very helpful.
Never seen heads rotted out like that. I bought the heads for my 454 from my neighbor, he had them sitting outside for who knows how many years and they were fine. (And they were old, from 67)
salt. living in the northeast, they treat the roads in the winter with rock salt. that's why we're known as "the rust belt"
Fitz's Fixes Ahh, I'm in Montana and we just use gravel on our roads, tough on windshields but rust isn't so bad here.
Welp... I have the similar problem on my 93 460. Leaking coolant out below #4 plug. Either a shot gasket or crack somewhere. Thanks for the vid; these how-tos are great.
Well I would say to have removed both heads and battled with seized bolts and other hurdles to start it up and only have a couple wires crossed .............impressive. I was hoping you would have shown lifting the heads off , or better yet heard you lifting them off as they are big heavy bastards and I'm sure the audio would have indicated as such......................Again nice job, an informative and easy to follow video
So did you just torque the rocker arms down or what?
I don't remember. But a simple Google search "460 efi rocker arm torque specs" will tell you 18-25 ft lbs
It looks like the engine compartment was on fire , Great Video !
I've had many of 460s in trucks and cars over the years and I've never seen a 460 head rust like that heck iv never seen any head rust that way.
Come ro Buffalo....
if you still own this truck , pull the hoses for the air intake apart at that plastic junction in the middle , cut those restrictive ends off , you will see , and put it back together , you will see a increase in fuel mileage , it did about 2 mpg
what else for more mileage or power
towrecker saw a comment about increasing fuel mileage and power. 1 scrap the 460. great power house of an engine, but thirsty. if thats not an option, scrap from the catalytic converter back and replace with a minimum of 3" diameter exhaust. did this with mine, went from 8 mpg to 11-12
Yeah I don't think youtube would have been happy with that audio! I laid across the radiator and dropped one of my nuts when I handed jr that lead weight. In hindsight, I wish I had a lift of some kind. Putting the new heads on was worse. We managed though. Thanks jr!
My 97 f350 w/460 heads rotted out in the same spot...Being replaced with recast heads, that spot around the bolts from the header on the new heads is really beefed up...
You should do a video of all your plow trucks
crazy man herei bought a efi engine i was hoping it was last year of efi but noo tinny valves so i junked all but block will be using cj heads i am pore as it get but i add up price n said it the only way no other way exists that train of thought is bestto get 1977 f350 roll back going fuel system with be megasquirt microsquirt or speedduno ardrinuno efi cheap n good stuff i do all this a i haded heads not breathing n no being able to shint 5 speed in lower gear n it just setting humming n not revving to 5500 6500 n still piulling 1980 90`s sucks in the heads ford chevy all of them were just ass holes
I had the same problem with my 97' F-350 at 293,000 mi. It still ran great but a friend gave me a reman engine so I just swapped it.
Type of kit did you order?
It was just a head gasket kit from my local auto parts store. I don't remember what brand it was, sorry
@@fitzsfixes is okay. Ill just order a regular kit. I might contact .ford dealer.
@@fitzsfixes thamk you any way
How many miles were on the truck? So what ate the head up?salt from the roads?
Ron West 40,000mi. yes, the salt here is a killer. also, being efi, the exhaust flanges are really thin
My old 91 has an exhaust leak the the exhaust manifold. I'm worried that when I start that project to fix it, its gonna turn into this project.
Dennis Wobbe fuel injected? if so, that's likely your problem. sorry
Fitz's Fixes yeah. but the truck has spent its entire life in the desert. fingers are crossed
this video is incredibly helpful, thanks! Now my question is where did you get that book? im seeking to remove my E4OD 4X4 W/overdrive , however...its going to be a COMPLETE pain. i need all the help i can get, plus help with a few smaller items.
sorry, just saw this comment now. I believe I got the book off either ebay or amazon. Wasn't too expensive
I know your post is few months old but I'll comment anyway. Your project really is not that difficult. Once you remove all the lines, wires, transfer case shifter(if so equipped) and linkages, the rest is really simple. I do recommend that you take pictures of the linkages, wires, and fluid lines before you tear anything apart. Remove the access panel under the transmission where it meets up with the engine so you can access the torque converter bolts. You can gain access to the torque converter bolts two different ways: *NOTE* Disconnect the ignition coil wire so the engine doesn't start for option #1. Option 1: Quickly turn the ignition key little bits at a time to rotate the flex plate and torque converter so you can remove the nuts from the studs on the torque converter. Option 2: Rotate the engine manually with a breaker bar and socket on the bolt in the center of the crankshaft pulley.
Unbolt the driveshaft from the transfer case. The transfer case cross member needs to be removed eventually so torch or grind off the rivet heads and punch them out. You might get lucky and find that someone has already replaced the rivets with bolts. Unbolt the transmission from the engine. You may need to get inside your truck and pull up your carpet and unbolt the transmission access panel to get to some of the bolts. Remove the two nuts under the transfer case cross member that hold the transfer case mounting bracket to the cross member. Then with some sort of jack under the transmission, pull back on the transfer case and wiggle the whole assembly until it separates from the engine. Once it's back far enough, jack it up higher and remove the cross member. Then all you do is make sure the whole setup is balanced(having a friend help is nice,) lower it down, unbolt the transmission from the transfer case, and you have done it. If you take your time and be very careful, this should be a fairly easy job.
I remember back in the day that I did transmission, engine, axle, etc. removal and replacement jobs on all kinds of vehicles before I even reached puberty. My old man trusted my mechanical abilities so he let me tackle these kind of jobs without any guidance or even a helping hand because he knew I would take my time and analyze the task at hand. That is really all you need to do and if I could do these sort of jobs by myself as a kid, you should have no trouble doing so as an adult.
If you have not already taken care of the issue, I wish you the best of luck!
Did you use any RTV on your valve covers if you can remember? I've had issues getting mine to seal using the gasket alone on 460 motors.
I think I used a thin layer of rtv. But I'm not 100% sure. Sorry
Your buddy looks like kevin smith the director.
That's funny! I'll tell him
What book are you using as a reference?
covert to mircosquirt be nice
The spark plugs that were in those old heads looked about as old as the engine!
You're probably right. The truck wasn't exactly cared for by the previous owner
scotch brite pad
Did you use a feeler gauge to adjust valve lash?
No, these are non adjustable, you just torque them to 18-25 ft lbs
Hey which ford manual are you using for the torque specs? Hayes or chilton?
Thanks
I think it was Chilton.
is plowing a good idea? idk if i want to lift the03 f350 i plan on buying or put a plow on it and make some cash I'm in new jersey idk if its "worth it"
Hey, weren't we in a conversation about sending a pair of heads from your friends shop? Can't locate that message anymore. James
Yes we were. Private message me. I'll get your shipping address and go from there
Fitz's Fixes my address is 16016 thunder trail, Austin 78734. It was by chance I saw your video and have been looking for some heads. What did your heads from the shop look like at the exhaust bolts, do you notice any cracks, wonder if they all do it at some time
They were perfect. I sent them to the machine shop to make sure everything was straight. They were all good. Is yours efi or carb?
Fitz's Fixes fuel infection. I found a pair 5 yrs ago or so on Craigslist that were used but only a few thousand miles. I think they were $100 each
Fitz's Fixes that was the first time the heads were changed
Did you remove the EGR system?
Hey I have a 97 f250 that I'm working on had the same problem as yous with the heads. Where did u get ure valve covers and valve cover bolts I'm having a hard time finding some.
koolcrss I reused my valve covers and bolts. sorry
ohh they looked new thanks for the quick response though
how did you torque down the rocker arms?
Torque wrench...how else? These are non adjustable, make sure the lobe is down (no lift) then torque them down.
So how long did it take to do this project
trailriders dwb good question. I did over the course of a week. but if I had to guess. I'd say 10 or 12 hours. Lots of cleaning, scraping, painting, and broken bolts.
+Fitz's Fixes okay thank you. I'm getting ready to start tearing my bosses 95 that he inherited apart tomorrow to replace the head gaskets and I just was looking for a idea on how long it would take. But thank you
LOL, I have 2 LINCOLN CONTINENTAL 1976 and 1978 and my 460 look NEW compare!!!!!
it could be done, dont need all this ?
James Fine huh?
Probably. But this is what I decided to do. Thanks for watching
Dude,looks like somebody already sprayed oil on it ! Bahahaha !
I have several of these pigs ,so who's laughing now ? you!