Glazes via airbrush to smooth out transition especially in models with soft details. Feels easier to go put layers to set initial highlights and with more abrupt highlights then smooth transitions with a diluted midtone. Just recently have started experimenting with different shadow tones to make shadows more interesting that just a going from one dark color to lighter color ( your dark sea blue example of red cape or mayor a purple (very dilute ) for a highlighted yellow or green
:) Everything is a matter of perspective I guess. I am nowhere near as good as some of the best painters out there, so from my perspective I am pretty decent but not great yet. I am working on it though 😂
Thanks for your videos. You're and excellent painter, but somehow your videos are relatable, and they make me feel like I can actually achieve similar results with enough effort.
I've been having a hard time finding the perfect combination of paint and water, with the helpful hint of a papertowel I found it useful. Normally I thought that touching the paint brush to a paper towel was taboo. Absolutely do not do that. But i'm going to try to whisk the excess off and see if it helps. Thank you, I will try this!
That is interesting 🤔 I use the paper towel all the time, wicking of some of the moisture every time I rinse the brush in the cup and then also after having loaded new paint into the brush. Without it I wouldn't be able to control the moisture in the brush. Not sure why anybody would tell you that it is taboo. But I hope you will try it and it will work for you too 😊
@@pbkobold well way to go guys, I am spending a bit more on paper towels than usual. Haha just a joke, it has helped, but paper towels are no longer for the dog and the kiddo....but just as much for me. Thank you for establishing my paper towel overture 🎶
If you're looking for ideas for the future. Last summer I picked up my father's large library of painting books, which I'd never paid much attention to, and I realized that the classic acrylic painting books had lots of tips and tutorials, so if you're looking for inspiration to do marble, wood colors,... you should take a look at this kind of book. Strangely all the books are translations of english works, so I suppose you could easily find some by searching for the key words: art of the fake, trompe l'oeil, imitation. The one by Belgian Pierre Finkelstein is the best of those I know, as it's a fairly dense compilation with suggested tutorials for making trompe l'oeil of all the classic woods, marbles and dirt.
Thanks for the tip, I will look into those. So far I have only read miniature specific painting books (FAQ series from AK, figopedia, etc) and those were really useful too.
Airbrush glazing tip for those who like toxic things: Vallejo Xpress Colors thin really well with Mr Color Leveling Thinner, letting you spray close with a much lower tendency to spider than heavily thinning with a water based thinner. You can also use a lot lower pressures with less tip dry. Obv, you need to use a respirator + spray booth when using lacquer thinner! Tamiya's X20A is another great thinner for very thin mixes with minimal spidering (get their retarder too, a few drops help tip dry). Less toxic than lacquer thinner, and pretty broadly compatible with most water solvent acrylics, but I still wouldn't use it without a respirator.
Thanks for sharing, those are great tips! Just one thing I would add: even if you are thinning with water I would still use a respirator. Acrylic paint is non toxic, but breathing in tiny plastic particles is not great for the lungs :) When I highlight with the airbrush I always wear a respirator and when I spray bigger surfaces or prime I use a booth plus respirator
I tried quite a few different mediums, not this one though. I usually find that they don't really help with the glazing too much and they are more hassle than they are worth.
Thanks Ph3lan, liked and subscribed! Completely new to this. Regarding brush loading, do you also wick moisture/excess paint off on a paper towel for layering? I’ve seen painters use their hand or thumbnail but is that for layering and the more absorbent surface of a paper towel reserved for glazing?
Hey there! Yes, the paper towel is universal 😂 I use it to control the amount of moisture and paint in the bristles. Without it, it would be difficult to do almost anything, except maybe basecoating. I have a brush care video on the channel and in that one I explain in detail how I use the brush and the towel while painting. I suggest giving that a watch 😊 Here it is: ua-cam.com/video/1p_8yHKYz4w/v-deo.htmlsi=JAh1NgRCvcjH3aOf
I find that when i try to do glazing the paint flows a bit too well, ending up in places I didn't want it to be or moving around a bit after i have removed the brush. How do i keep the glazes in the place that I want them/prevent the brush from depositing a big blob of watery paint when i try glazing?
Hey there! As I explained in the video, the paper towel is your friend here. You should use it to remove the excess water before touching it to the model.
I’ve tried glazing some lighter colors as a bridge between upper layers on a mini. The lighter colors seem to glaze in a dusty, chalky finish. Is there a way to avoid that?
Hmm, is it possible that you are not waiting long enough for the layers to dry before going in with new ones? You can also try to avoid painting with colors that have a lot of white in them. Basically try glazing down instead of up, dragging the darker color from the highlights towards the shadows rather than the other way around. I hope that helps!
Stupid question, but the paint on my wet pallette never looks anything like what I see on youtube. I tried thinning paint down in the same way as you did and instead of beading up (like I see on yours and other channels) it just thins then dries almost immediately. I wonder if I am not using enough water, or if I am doing something wrong. I use a red grass pallette with this sheets and would appreciate any advice
That's interesting 🤔 I also used the redgrass palette for a while ( I still do occasionally) and it behaves pretty much the same as the Green Stuff World one you see in the video. I also suspect that you are not using enough water (there should be a couple of mm of water left around the foam) or that you live in a very dry climate with very low humidity?
@@ph3lansminiatures No Idea. Definitely not humidity, I live in the UK so not a dry low humidity environment haha. Do you use the paper that comes with the palettes? It just seems that no matter how much water I use, when I look at your paper (and other youtuber's paper) it's like there is a hydro effect where the paint almost sits above the paper, whereas using the redgrass paper it's like a normal paint (granted it is naturally thinner)
Hey all!
What are you guys using glazes for?
I use glazes mostly as Transition in a shoulder Pad or Armor plate
Attempting to make my Infinity Morats look better
Glazes via airbrush to smooth out transition especially in models with soft details. Feels easier to go put layers to set initial highlights and with more abrupt highlights then smooth transitions with a diluted midtone. Just recently have started experimenting with different shadow tones to make shadows more interesting that just a going from one dark color to lighter color ( your dark sea blue example of red cape or mayor a purple (very dilute ) for a highlighted yellow or green
"Pretty decent painter," he says, as he shows a series of incredibly beautifully painted models.
:) Everything is a matter of perspective I guess. I am nowhere near as good as some of the best painters out there, so from my perspective I am pretty decent but not great yet. I am working on it though 😂
Thanks for your videos. You're and excellent painter, but somehow your videos are relatable, and they make me feel like I can actually achieve similar results with enough effort.
That's great to hear 😊
Still working on the technique, therefore I really appreciate your guide! 👍
I always wanted to be a better glazer
Great vid. I’m a noob and this is very helpful. Mahalo!
You are welcome ☺️
I've been having a hard time finding the perfect combination of paint and water, with the helpful hint of a papertowel I found it useful. Normally I thought that touching the paint brush to a paper towel was taboo. Absolutely do not do that. But i'm going to try to whisk the excess off and see if it helps. Thank you, I will try this!
That is interesting 🤔 I use the paper towel all the time, wicking of some of the moisture every time I rinse the brush in the cup and then also after having loaded new paint into the brush. Without it I wouldn't be able to control the moisture in the brush. Not sure why anybody would tell you that it is taboo.
But I hope you will try it and it will work for you too 😊
Getting your paper towel slightly damp before using it to wick off excess paint helps keep it more controlled too.
@@pbkobold well way to go guys, I am spending a bit more on paper towels than usual. Haha just a joke, it has helped, but paper towels are no longer for the dog and the kiddo....but just as much for me. Thank you for establishing my paper towel overture 🎶
If you're looking for ideas for the future. Last summer I picked up my father's large library of painting books, which I'd never paid much attention to, and I realized that the classic acrylic painting books had lots of tips and tutorials, so if you're looking for inspiration to do marble, wood colors,... you should take a look at this kind of book.
Strangely all the books are translations of english works, so I suppose you could easily find some by searching for the key words: art of the fake, trompe l'oeil, imitation.
The one by Belgian Pierre Finkelstein is the best of those I know, as it's a fairly dense compilation with suggested tutorials for making trompe l'oeil of all the classic woods, marbles and dirt.
Thanks for the tip, I will look into those. So far I have only read miniature specific painting books (FAQ series from AK, figopedia, etc) and those were really useful too.
Airbrush glazing tip for those who like toxic things: Vallejo Xpress Colors thin really well with Mr Color Leveling Thinner, letting you spray close with a much lower tendency to spider than heavily thinning with a water based thinner. You can also use a lot lower pressures with less tip dry. Obv, you need to use a respirator + spray booth when using lacquer thinner! Tamiya's X20A is another great thinner for very thin mixes with minimal spidering (get their retarder too, a few drops help tip dry). Less toxic than lacquer thinner, and pretty broadly compatible with most water solvent acrylics, but I still wouldn't use it without a respirator.
Thanks for sharing, those are great tips!
Just one thing I would add: even if you are thinning with water I would still use a respirator. Acrylic paint is non toxic, but breathing in tiny plastic particles is not great for the lungs :) When I highlight with the airbrush I always wear a respirator and when I spray bigger surfaces or prime I use a booth plus respirator
Glazes are my favorite way to blend but I don't always have the patience.
have you tried the xpress medium from vallejo for glazes/layers? I feel like its better than just water. Great vid btw :)
I tried quite a few different mediums, not this one though. I usually find that they don't really help with the glazing too much and they are more hassle than they are worth.
Thanks Ph3lan, liked and subscribed!
Completely new to this. Regarding brush loading, do you also wick moisture/excess paint off on a paper towel for layering?
I’ve seen painters use their hand or thumbnail but is that for layering and the more absorbent surface of a paper towel reserved for glazing?
Hey there! Yes, the paper towel is universal 😂 I use it to control the amount of moisture and paint in the bristles. Without it, it would be difficult to do almost anything, except maybe basecoating. I have a brush care video on the channel and in that one I explain in detail how I use the brush and the towel while painting. I suggest giving that a watch 😊
Here it is: ua-cam.com/video/1p_8yHKYz4w/v-deo.htmlsi=JAh1NgRCvcjH3aOf
@@ph3lansminiatures thanks, I watched it :)
I find that when i try to do glazing the paint flows a bit too well, ending up in places I didn't want it to be or moving around a bit after i have removed the brush. How do i keep the glazes in the place that I want them/prevent the brush from depositing a big blob of watery paint when i try glazing?
Hey there! As I explained in the video, the paper towel is your friend here. You should use it to remove the excess water before touching it to the model.
I’ve tried glazing some lighter colors as a bridge between upper layers on a mini. The lighter colors seem to glaze in a dusty, chalky finish. Is there a way to avoid that?
Hmm, is it possible that you are not waiting long enough for the layers to dry before going in with new ones?
You can also try to avoid painting with colors that have a lot of white in them. Basically try glazing down instead of up, dragging the darker color from the highlights towards the shadows rather than the other way around.
I hope that helps!
Stupid question, but the paint on my wet pallette never looks anything like what I see on youtube. I tried thinning paint down in the same way as you did and instead of beading up (like I see on yours and other channels) it just thins then dries almost immediately. I wonder if I am not using enough water, or if I am doing something wrong. I use a red grass pallette with this sheets and would appreciate any advice
That's interesting 🤔 I also used the redgrass palette for a while ( I still do occasionally) and it behaves pretty much the same as the Green Stuff World one you see in the video.
I also suspect that you are not using enough water (there should be a couple of mm of water left around the foam) or that you live in a very dry climate with very low humidity?
@@ph3lansminiatures No Idea. Definitely not humidity, I live in the UK so not a dry low humidity environment haha.
Do you use the paper that comes with the palettes? It just seems that no matter how much water I use, when I look at your paper (and other youtuber's paper) it's like there is a hydro effect where the paint almost sits above the paper, whereas using the redgrass paper it's like a normal paint (granted it is naturally thinner)
I'm using glazes primarily because I put too much water in my paint.
Haha, I can totally relate to that 🤣