This is great. I have learned so much just from watching your videos. Thank you for sharing! It is wild to me that High Impact PVC is enough for the jaws to load up on. The level of TIR improvement is astounding!
Try dressing the wheel before grinding. Less vibration, smoother grinding. Slow down chuck rpm. Vibration from this will affect accuracy. Keep up the good work. Mike
Greetings from the US! I really appreciate all of your editing. It's the perfect combination (Most of the time lol) of quiet cinematography and craftsmanship and the real life sound and experience of your work. Very well done! I don't machine but oddly I find comfort in these kinds of videos. ASMR? Keep up the great work!
Nice job, only advice I could add is that you should have run the grinder on your final size until it "sparked out" which means that you can run it in and out in the same position and it doesn't spark at all. Also linear shaft is actually not very round it's not designed for rotation so I doesn't really need to be. That's why you see better runout with the milling cutter shank.
Durante años he visto trabajar a muchos torneros y nunca vi que rectifiquen o controlen el estado de las mordazas, además, las empresas de reparación de tornos, (las que yo conozco) tampoco lo hacen.
Question: When you grind with the wheel and keep the jaws locked at a specific radius, wouldnt the radius from where the jaws are held be imprinted on to the jaws and cause uneven gripping on larger parts?
Thank you for watching. That's right. Basically, I tighten only at the mark position, so the contact surface between the internal scroll gear and the chuck body is unevenly worn. Therefore, when grasping, the center of the claw moves to the opposite side of the mark by the amount of wear. Since I gripped and polished in this state, when I gripped an object with a different diameter, the claw facing the mark touched the material at the center, but the other two claws contacted at a position other than the center. This will fix the material on the side of the mark if the diameter is smaller than when grinding, and on the opposite side of the mark if the diameter is larger than when grinding. This time too, the chuck was worn out and worn out, so the core of the thin linear shaft shifted 0.01mm toward the mark.
cuando voy a rectificar las mordazas, lo primero que hago es mirar varias veces como centrar un eje o una barra rectificada una copa mandril está fabricada para hacer apriete de las tres copas con igualdad de fuerza. trato con dos copas si no da centro apretando con tres. no es recomendable apretar de una sola copa porque la sujeción es más débil y la pieza puede zafarse con un corte exigente. si por desgaste, definitivamente no da centro de ninguna forma, ahí sí procedo a rectificar. un secreto que me revelaron es: según usted sujete el aro para fijar las mordazas, así mismo sujetar las piezas que en adelante vaya a maquinar. con una tolerancia de una milésima de pulgada de error, queda agarrando.
Thank you for watching. Since the jaws of the scroll chuck have backlash, the parallelism of the jaws differs when gripping the outer shape and when gripping the inner diameter. When grinding the inside of the nail, it is better to grind while grasping the outer shape.
Спасибо за просмотр. Спиральный патрон изнашивается неравномерно в той части, которая соприкасается со спиральным механизмом, поэтому, когда старый спиральный патрон затягивается, положение кулачков патрона меняется. Следовательно, полировать можно более аккуратно, если материал обладает прочностью, но не имеет жесткости для деформации.
Your preloading the slack out from the wrong direction! If your grinding the surface of the chuck jaws for gripping a outside surface you need to preload the chuck in that direction!
Thank you for watching. The inside of the chuck was ground by applying force in the gripping direction on the inside of the jaws of the chuck. Scroll gear contact is correct.
Все ничего но пластик для такой задачи не подходит от слова совсем. У него нет ни какой жесткости. И тем самым вы ни как не устраните микролюфты в ходах самих кулачков. А вообще у Вас классный канал есть на что посмотреть. Желаю удачи в развитии и новых творческих побед.
You loaded the jaws in the wrong direction. Grinding inner sides requires a ring *inside* of the chuck, like you would clamp a workpiece. Grinding outside with a ring.
Thank you for watching. If you want to shave the outer surface of the jaws of the chuck, you'll have to grasp a ring-shaped object from the inside and shave it.
Спасибо за просмотр. Я разрезал параллельно. Деталь, захваченная патроном, сзади тонкая и легко деформируется, а кончик толстый и трудно деформируется, поэтому считаем, что угол наклона кулачков будет таким же, как и при захвате материала.
sorry but this is a big mistake don't grind\turn that kind of jaws those are for roughing and that's it for precision turning you have to buy jaws that are soft and must be turned every time to clamp the piece precisely in addition, by grinding the roughing jaws you remove the cemented layer and for strong tightening you do not get the precision in the finish as long as you limit yourself to aluminum it's fine ... but when you have to make an H5 on a small piece ... it's a problem if the tightening doesn't take place because you grinded the jaws professional turner rule #1: never modify the equipment ^^
Merci d'avoir regardé. La position des mâchoires du mandrin à volutes n'est déterminée qu'après le serrage de la poignée du mandrin. De plus, si la pointe de la mâchoire du mandrin ne saisit pas l'objet, la mâchoire ne peut pas être raclée parallèlement à l'objet saisi.
別の動画で道具が綺麗で素晴らしいというコメントがあったが、本当に道具をケアしつつ作ってる、知り尽くしてるという感じを受ける。また手先も凄く器用と思う。
This is great. I have learned so much just from watching your videos. Thank you for sharing!
It is wild to me that High Impact PVC is enough for the jaws to load up on. The level of TIR improvement is astounding!
Try dressing the wheel before grinding. Less vibration, smoother grinding. Slow down chuck rpm. Vibration from this will affect accuracy. Keep up the good work.
Mike
Greetings from the US! I really appreciate all of your editing. It's the perfect combination (Most of the time lol) of quiet cinematography and craftsmanship and the real life sound and experience of your work. Very well done! I don't machine but oddly I find comfort in these kinds of videos. ASMR? Keep up the great work!
Another great video! I love how you make your own project-specific tooling!
スゲー‼️
これからも色々なアイデアを期待してます。
That moment when your overly strange desire to clean the lathe is justified!! I can't even watch people working with sandpaper on a lathe... Like!
Parabéns pelo excelente trabalho ,muito caprichoso quanto ao cuidado pó gerado ao se fazer a retífica !!!
Once again it's all about the skill.
You never disappoint. 👍🖖
As always, clean and dedicated work. Nice video - thank you for sharing !
Thanks for showing the method. I learned a lot from it.
Nice job, only advice I could add is that you should have run the grinder on your final size until it "sparked out" which means that you can run it in and out in the same position and it doesn't spark at all. Also linear shaft is actually not very round it's not designed for rotation so I doesn't really need to be. That's why you see better runout with the milling cutter shank.
今回は粉塵よけを作る動画でしたか！？
Sim mestre você está de parabéns também pela disciplina e organização de trabalho show 👏 obrigado pela orientação 🙏
Eccellente soluzione ad un grave problema, bravo!
Simply, amazing job! You are truly an inspiration.
Durante años he visto trabajar a muchos torneros y nunca vi que rectifiquen o controlen el estado de las mordazas, además, las empresas de reparación de tornos, (las que yo conozco) tampoco lo hacen.
super precision...
Question:
When you grind with the wheel and keep the jaws locked at a specific radius, wouldnt the radius from where the jaws are held be imprinted on to the jaws and cause uneven gripping on larger parts?
Thank you for watching.
That's right.
Basically, I tighten only at the mark position, so the contact surface between the internal scroll gear and the chuck body is unevenly worn.
Therefore, when grasping, the center of the claw moves to the opposite side of the mark by the amount of wear.
Since I gripped and polished in this state, when I gripped an object with a different diameter, the claw facing the mark touched the material at the center, but the other two claws contacted at a position other than the center.
This will fix the material on the side of the mark if the diameter is smaller than when grinding, and on the opposite side of the mark if the diameter is larger than when grinding.
This time too, the chuck was worn out and worn out, so the core of the thin linear shaft shifted 0.01mm toward the mark.
Impressive again. That made a huge difference. 👍👍👍
Grinding dust is really dangerous for lath machines bed nice complete job softy apricot ion
It's not the jaws that are out, it's the chuck threads.
I wonder if there's a way to get the jaws flat.
すごすぎる‥‥
What a difference. Great video.
Thanks for sharing.
😯Excelente resultado!!!!👍👍👍👏👏👏👏
Beautifully done.
Perfect technique. Thank you
cuando voy a rectificar las mordazas, lo primero que hago es mirar varias veces como centrar un eje o una barra rectificada una copa mandril está fabricada para hacer apriete de las tres copas con igualdad de fuerza. trato con dos copas si no da centro apretando con tres. no es recomendable apretar de una sola copa porque la sujeción es más débil y la pieza puede zafarse con un corte exigente. si por desgaste, definitivamente no da centro de ninguna forma, ahí sí procedo a rectificar. un secreto que me revelaron es: según usted sujete el aro para fijar las mordazas, así mismo sujetar las piezas que en adelante vaya a maquinar. con una tolerancia de una milésima de pulgada de error, queda agarrando.
Good Job 👍
Why didn't you use inner clamping method when you are grinding those jaws? Sorry for being a new machinist
Thank you for watching.
Since the jaws of the scroll chuck have backlash, the parallelism of the jaws differs when gripping the outer shape and when gripping the inner diameter.
When grinding the inside of the nail, it is better to grind while grasping the outer shape.
Excellent work Sir
very impressive result
冒頭部分でシリンダーゲージで
フレを見ていたので
3本爪のスクロールチャックで
どうやって芯出しを！？
と思ってしまいました
Exelente trabajo amigo me gustó cómo centro el plato quedó bien 🙏
Great, as usual. Thanks for sharing
Отличное видео😁👍
Obrigado foi grande ajuda para. mim resolveu um grande problema.
странно, что для зажима кулачков, вы выбрали не стабильный материал. если бы взяли металл, нагрузка была бы более корректной.
Спасибо за просмотр.
Спиральный патрон изнашивается неравномерно в той части, которая соприкасается со спиральным механизмом, поэтому, когда старый спиральный патрон затягивается, положение кулачков патрона меняется.
Следовательно, полировать можно более аккуратно, если материал обладает прочностью, но не имеет жесткости для деформации.
@@SwaplampJapan спасибо за объяснение, вы видели ранее, что я не токарь, а электроэрозионщик)
Смотреться с удовольствием! Спасибо!
Your preloading the slack out from the wrong direction! If your grinding the surface of the chuck jaws for gripping a outside surface you need to preload the chuck in that direction!
Thank you for watching.
The inside of the chuck was ground by applying force in the gripping direction on the inside of the jaws of the chuck.
Scroll gear contact is correct.
Все ничего но пластик для такой задачи не подходит от слова совсем. У него нет ни какой жесткости. И тем самым вы ни как не устраните микролюфты в ходах самих кулачков.
А вообще у Вас классный канал есть на что посмотреть. Желаю удачи в развитии и новых творческих побед.
Very neat job
The grinding wheel is ruff.
Gud work!
The last runout chuck is 0.02mm or 0.002mm?
Thank you for watching.
1 scale is 0.01mm, so it is 0.02mm.
You loaded the jaws in the wrong direction. Grinding inner sides requires a ring *inside* of the chuck, like you would clamp a workpiece. Grinding outside with a ring.
Thank you for watching.
It is fixed in the same direction as the grip of the material.
@@SwaplampJapan Ah! Sorry! Now I see it.
Brilliant, thanks
Gostei muito bom! 🇧🇷
これってチャックが比較的新しい場合は良いけど、爪の溝が擦り減ってガタツキあるとテーパーつくよ。
ពិតជាល្អណាស់love your videos
what about outer surface of jaws
Thank you for watching.
If you want to shave the outer surface of the jaws of the chuck, you'll have to grasp a ring-shaped object from the inside and shave it.
Thanks
Çok işime yaradı hemen deneyeceğim ama çelik ile.
Thank you for shearing
It is like taking your lathe to the dentist 😷
can you please tell the background music name .
Thank you for watching.
Background music is New Land - ALBIS.
thank you very much :)
@@SwaplampJapan
Güzel çalışma
About 5um runout on my Poland Bison 160 Chuck out of box.
Good job complied زبردست 👌 ڈایگرائنڈر
Greek letter phi Φ is not the same as diameter symbol ø
Over all good job.
Малой продольной подачей, под углом шлифовал кулачки?
Спасибо за просмотр.
Я разрезал параллельно.
Деталь, захваченная патроном, сзади тонкая и легко деформируется, а кончик толстый и трудно деформируется, поэтому считаем, что угол наклона кулачков будет таким же, как и при захвате материала.
Muy bueno el video e interesante .
なるほどこうやって修正できるんですね。ハンドグラインダーは必須なんでしょうか？芯押し台にドリルチャックだけでは不足でしょうか？
失礼します。砥石にも回転を与える必要があるかと。ちなみに私はCBNで切削しています
おそらく高価ですよね？できるだけコストを抑えたいのですが。
@@move3137 そうですね…中古品を再研磨しています
@@ak.8418 差し支えなければ伺いたいのですが、ホルダーはどういったものをお使いでしょうか？
ご視聴いただきありがとうございます。
爪の研削には日立が販売していたツールポストグラインダを使用する方法が主流であったと思いますが、
販売終了のため、ハンドグラインダーを使用する方法で行いました。
おっしゃるような方法（回転しない砥石）は試したことがありませんが、刃物台に単に砥石を固定しただけの場合は超微小送りで行う必要があり、相当の時間が必要になると思います。
Perfekt!
Ваше видео как бальзам на душу
精度出るなら俺もやりてえ
うちの爪でも試してみようと思います！
amazing，a hotshot
为什么不用刀车一下？磨的会跳动少？
sorry but this is a big mistake
don't grind\turn that kind of jaws
those are for roughing and that's it
for precision turning you have to buy jaws that are soft and must be turned every time to clamp the piece precisely
in addition, by grinding the roughing jaws you remove the cemented layer and for strong tightening you do not get the precision in the finish
as long as you limit yourself to aluminum it's fine ... but when you have to make an H5 on a small piece ... it's a problem if the tightening doesn't take place because you grinded the jaws
professional turner rule #1: never modify the equipment ^^
有更簡單的校正方法嗎?
感謝您的收看。
還有一種方法是將卡盤的鉗口從邊緣削去幾毫米，然後將鐵環夾在那裡。
@@SwaplampJapan 我的三爪夾頭鉗口裡面被磨掉了,前口套還會導致鉗口公差太大,現在在想辦法校正公差
Ещё один шаг к медитации 🤓
❤❤❤
👍👍👍
Bonjour , A quoi sert le montage de l ecrou avant la rectification ?
Merci d'avoir regardé.
La position des mâchoires du mandrin à volutes n'est déterminée qu'après le serrage de la poignée du mandrin.
De plus, si la pointe de la mâchoire du mandrin ne saisit pas l'objet, la mâchoire ne peut pas être raclée parallèlement à l'objet saisi.
@@SwaplampJapan Ok merci , superbe musique ....
Interesante.
Давно хотел увидеть классно !!!
سلام خوبی سنک سلند داخل سنگ میزنم داری میشه معرفی کنی ازگجا تهیه کنم
id rather have the clap.
개쩌네요 ^.^
😜😜😜😜😜
Demasiado complicado.
АХП.
❤❤❤
👍👍👍